Pages

Tonight! August Virtual Tasting - Chinook Cabernet Franc Rose 2009

Our August Virtual Tasting is tonight from 7-8pm Pacific Time. The wine is the 2009 Chinook Cabernet Franc Rose. The wine retails for $15 and is widely available.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery

2. Post your comments/tweets on the wine tonight between 7 and 8pm. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport. I will be using the hashtag #wawine during the event.

Hope to see you there!

Five Under $15 - August

Please note, posts may be less frequent between now and Labor Day. The August Virtual Tasting will take place on Tuesday the 31st from 7-8pm Pacific Time. Read more about it here.

In tough times we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

I wrote about Wines of Substance’s Pinot Gris in last month’s Five Under $15. This month I include another bottle from this winery, which is more like a wine from another planet. This is an alien wine. The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc is distinctly green to the eye in both the bottle and glass. I was afraid to turn out the lights for fear that it might glow in the dark. Close your eyes and enjoy this one if you must. It’s a great shellfish wine if ever there were one.

Milbrandt Vineyards' Traditions series is dedicated to its value wines. Milbrandt farms thirteen estate vineyards in Washington. These vineyards, which total about 1,600 acres, are concentrated in the Wahluke Slope AVA and the Ancient Lakes, an area that currently has an application for AVA status. How significant a player has Milbrandt become in the Washington wine industry? Milbrandt’s custom crush facility, Wahluke Wine Company, is currently the state’s fourth largest winery in terms of production.

Boomtown is a second label for Dusted Valley Vintners. Dusted Valley’s website says, "The four pillars that the Boomtown brand is built upon: 1. Value 2. Vintage 3. Varietal 4. Vivacious Vino." The brand name is a tribute to the booming Washington wine industry. Earlier this year, Dusted Valley received recognition as 'Washington Winery of the Year' by Wine Press Northwest.

Grand Estates is Columbia Crest’s second wine tier. The Grand Estates wines are omnipresent, with Columbia Crest making 250,000 cases of the Grand Estates Merlot alone. As with all of the Columbia Crest wines, the Grand Estates bottles consistently outperform their price points. While a solid wine, I didn’t think the 2007 Grand Estates Merlot quite brought the aroma or flavor profile that have made this wine consistently compelling.

Read previous Five Under $15s here.

Wines of Substance Sauvignon Blanc Washington State 2009 $15
Rating: + (Good) Abundant fresh squeezed limes and herbal notes on an aromatic, appealing nose. Screamingly tart – in a good way - on the palate while still displaying a lot of fruit, accented by mineral flavors. Has a slightly bitter note on the finish. 100% Sauvignon Blanc, Minick Vineyard. Aged in 75% stainless steel, 25% neutral French oak. Recommended.

Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2008 $13
Rating: + (Good) Nose shows abundant lime zest, mineral, and green apple. The palate is extremely dry and etched by crisp acidity. 100% Pinot Gris. Evergreen and Ancient Lakes vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.3% alcohol. 4,424 cases produced.

Dusted Valley Vintners Boomtown Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $15
Rating: + (Good) Fairly light in color. Nose is marked by orange rind, licorice, and black cherries. Straight down the fairway on the palate with light fruit and abundant chocolate flavors on a reasonably light bodied wine. Drops off a bit on the last third. 89.3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6.6% Syrah, 3.2% Grenache, 0.9% Cinsault. Aged in French (70%) and American oak 14.2% alcohol.

Dusted Valley Vintners Boomtown Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $15
Rating: + (Good) Nose shows abundant barrel notes of toast, spice, chocolate, and cedar along with red fruit. The palate is silky and light bodied. 78.8% Merlot, 8.8% Malbec, 7.1% Syrah, 5.3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in French, Hungarian, and American oak (50% new). 14.4% alcohol.

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $11

Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) A fairly muted nose with dust, red fruit, and light milk chocolate. Light fruit on the palate with a silky layer of mocha flavors. Lacks some of the heft of recent vintages.

Seattle Metropolitan article

Please note, posts may be less frequent between now and Labor Day. The August Virtual Tasting will take place on Tuesday the 31st from 7-8pm Pacific Time. Read more about it here.

I had the pleasure of writing an article on Washington wine in September's Seattle Metropolitan magazine. The issue should be on stands today. Read an on-line version of the article here. Enjoy!

August Virtual Tasting moved to Tuesday the 31st

Please note: August's Virtual Tasting has been moved from this Thursday to Tuesday August 31st from 7-8pm Pacific Time. My apologies for the change. The wine is the 2009 Chinook Cab Franc Rose. Read more about it here. Hope you'll join us!

Veraison underway in Lake Chelan AVA

Please note, posts may be less frequent between now and Labor Day.

Today, a few pictures from Monday from the always scenic Lake Chelan AVA. Veraison is underway in many locations, although not yet in others or for particular grapes, such as Cabernet Franc. Most people I spoke with reported being two weeks or more behind schedule. By comparison, many other regions in the state estimate being ten days behind their historical schedules. Click on the pictures for larger images.

Veraison at Chelan Estate Winery & Vineyards.

























View from Vin du Lac.










View from Chelan Estate.












The patio at Nefarious Cellars.












The deck at the area's newest winery, Chelan Ridge which opened last week (no website yet).

Washington Wine Round-up August 15th to 21st

Please note, posts may be less frequent between now and Labor Day.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from August 15th to 21st. Please add links to any I missed to the comments section.

From around the country…


Wine Spectator
writes about twelve Washington reds (may require subscription).

D Magazine
writes about Spring Valley Vineyards Nina Lee Syrah. They also write about the 2007 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet.

Wine Enthusiast
writes about Salmon Safe wines catching on in the Northwest.


From the blogosphere…


Wine and Beer of Washington State
writes about the Picnic for the Auction of Washington Wines. They also write about Hard Row to Hoe.

Drink Nectar
writes about William Church Winery. Josh also writes about L’Ecole No. 41s Seven Hills Syrah and 2007 Gilbert Cellars Allobroges.

Family Wineries of Washington State
writes about Initiative 1100. They also give winery data from 2009.

Travel+Wine.com writes about Walla Walla.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine
does a post on Tero Estates. Catie also writes about writers and bloggers.

Paul Gregutt
writes about Washington State Pinot Noir.

Woodinville Wine Update
writes about Covey Run’s tasting room opening. Shona also writes about a taste and tweet at Bin on the Lake, Ballard’s Vintner’s Annex, and the Willows Lodge GeoHop.

Northwest Wine
writes about Upland Estates. Andy also writes about summer wines.

Yak Yak Wine
writes about a trip to Seattle.

Wine Peeps
writes about the 2007 Boomtown Cabernet. They also write about Red Willow Vineyard.

Write for Wine
writes about Blend.

Wine Foot
writes about the Auction of Washington Wines.

WAwineman
writes about Olsen Estates 2007 Syrah. He also writes about OS Winery’s 2006 Syrah, and Rasa Vineyards 2007 Principia.

A poster on WestCoastWine.net writes about a trip to Walla Walla.

Cork’d
gives a mid-vintage growing report on Washington.

The Wine Cask Blog
writes about Maryhill’s 2008 Viognier.

JustLuxe.com
writes about Challenger Ridge.

Bellingham Sandwich
writes about Washington wine month.

Reading the Washington Landscape
writes about GLM.


From the blogosphere (WBC10)…


The Vino File gives some impressions of Washington Syrah.

Write for Wine
writes about the trip to Walla Walla.

Palate Press
writes about the evolution of wine public relations and social media.


From the locals…


Writing to the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about drinking aged wine.

KEPRTV writes about the grape harvest running late.

KNDO
writes about winemaker Josh McDaniels.

The Tri-City Herald writes about a WSU wine science center. They also write about the Rattlesnake Hills wine group hiring a new marketing director and Corvus moving to the Walla Walla incubator region.

OregonLive.com
writes about Northwest wineries looking to trade with Hong Kong.

The News Tribune writes about Rob Griffin and Wade Wolfe being honored at the Auction of Washington Wines.

The Tri-Cities Area Journal of Business writes about the Legends of Washington Wine.


Leftovers (stories missed from previous weeks)…


TableTalkRadio.net
writes about the third part in a series about wine blends.


That’s all folks!

An encore performance from Rôtie Cellars

I vividly recall when I first tried the inaugural releases from Rôtie Cellars. It was last spring at Seattle Uncorked’s annual syrah event. I had tasted through fifty some odd Washington State syrahs before I arrived at the table where winemaker Sean Boyd was pouring. Boyd poured a glass of his 2007 Southern Blend – a mix of grenache, syrah, and mourvedre. The first sip was arresting. I looked up from my glass and said, “You have my complete attention.”

It takes a certain style of wine to stand out in large format tastings. Usually these are the bigger, brawnier wines that elbow their way to the front with fruit, oak, and alcohol. Boyd’s Rôtie Cellars wines are none of that. Rather these are lower oak, lower alcohol wines that focus on fruit expression. As indicated by the winery’s name, Boyd is a Côte-Rôtie lover. With Rôtie Cellars, Boyd focuses on trying to make Old World-style wines from New World fruit. The results for Boyd’s 2007 Northern Blend (syrah co-fermented with viognier) and Southern Blend were among the most compelling wines coming out of Washington last year.

After being greatly impressed by a winery’s first release, I always hold my breath a bit when trying the second. Was it just a great vintage? Was it just beginners luck? After spending time last fall talking with Boyd and tasting barrel samples, it was clear that the answer to the first question was yes and the second question was no. 2007 was a great vintage, but Boyd's subsequent wines are every bit as impressive if not more so. Of course, the proof is really in the bottle, and the 2008 releases emphatically confirm my initial excitement about this winery.

Boyd works as assistant winemaker at Waters Winery where he produces the Rôtie Cellars wines. He shows an intense and contagious passion for wine and for winemaking. Last year when I talked to Boyd about the new winery, he was perhaps most excited about his 2008 Grenache, which would ultimately go into the Southern Blend. “You’ve got to try the 2008!” Boyd implored at the winery’s release event. I did and, true to the vagaries of barrel tasting, Boyd seemed suddenly unimpressed with his own creation. “Tasted a lot different a couple of weeks ago,” he said somewhat deflated. While he was riding the roller coaster that is watching wine age in the barrel, it was clear that lurking in the darkness was a wine worthy of excitement.

When I first tasted Rôtie Cellars 2008 Southern Blend several months ago, the wine was still somewhat reluctant to show itself. The fruit expression was vibrant but the wine hadn’t yet taken on the earth tones that made the 2007 wine so compelling. It has since blossomed into the wine Boyd was so excited about back when he tasted it in the barrel.

While the Southern Blend is an strong statement of the promise of grenache and grenache blends in Washington, Boyd’s 2008 Northern Blend is even more impressive. Syrah has become a bit of a dirty word in Washington and elsewhere of late, but Boyd’s 2008 Northern Blend is another data point, if any were needed, that this grape excels here. This is an intense, meaty wine with textured fruit flavors. “I’m pretty proud of this wine,” Boyd says.

Since launching Rôtie Cellars last year, Boyd has opened up a tasting room in downtown Walla Walla. He is also preparing to launch Rôtie Cellars’ wine club. The winery’s club – Rotesians - has a very unique twist, what Boyd refers to as “lifetime pricing.” People who join the wine club now will be able to sign up for allocations of wine at 2010 prices in perpetuity. Boyd says his goal is to “reward our loyal clients who found us at the beginning.” He continues, “I'm in it for life, and I'm going to love to get stuck in fifteen to twenty years when everybody tells me how stupid this idea was.”

Rôtie Cellars produces 1,000 cases annually.

Related Posts

Focus - Kerloo Cellars and Rôtie Cellars
Waters winemaker Jamie Brown takes the road less traveled

Rôtie Cellars Northern Blend Red Wine Washington State 2008 $35

Rating: ** (Exceptional) An aromatic nose with violets, bacon fat, and blueberries. A meaty, rich, intense wine loaded with fresh fruit and umami flavors along with a textured mouthfeel. Oak is very far in the background putting the focus firmly on the fruit. 97% Syrah, 3% Viognier. 14.2% alcohol. 396 cases produced.

Rôtie Cellars Southern Blend Red Wine Washington State 2008 $35

Rating: * (Excellent) Redolent with earth, raspberries, red cherries, and Red Vines. Beautifully rich, pure fruit flavors on the palate. Exceptionally well balanced with a long finish. 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre. Aged in French oak (100% second fills). 14.2% alcohol. 400 cases produced.

'Washington Wines & Wineries' - An indispensable guide (Book Review)

Early next month the second edition of Washington Wine & Wineries: The Essential Guide hits the shelves. Coming almost three years after the first edition, the book has been completely revised and updated. The need for a new edition, which includes greatly expanded winery listings, is indicative of the fast pace the Washington wine industry is growing. It also reflects the additional vintages numerous wineries now have under their belt.

Author Paul Gregutt writes in the introduction, “Reading this book should feel like a tour through a state with an old friend who happens to be a local and who knows it well. I am that friend.” He more than succeeds. Washington Wines & Wineries is written in the crisp, engaging style that has made Gregutt such a compelling writer over the years. It is a book the novice can understand and enjoy but still contains enough detail to engage and inform people already familiar with the state and its wines.

Gregutt, whom I consider a personal friend as well as a professional friend in arms, serves as contributing editor for Wine Enthusiast and as a columnist for the Seattle Times. He also writes a must-read wine blog.

Gregutt moved to Washington in 1972 – the same year the first vines at Champoux, Celilo, and Sagemoor vineyards were planted. Much like there is no substitute for vine age, Gregutt brings to Washington Wines & Wineries a perspective that can only come from being on the ground in Washington for almost forty years. During this time the industry has grown from a handful of wineries to almost seven hundred.

Like the first edition, the second edition of The Essential Guide provides information about Washington’s history, grapes, viticultural areas, essential vineyards, and most important wineries. While the first edition of the book was intended to make the case for Washington as a world-class wine region, Gregutt now takes this as a given. Though there is still work to be done bringing this message to the masses, the case is now clear.

Washington Wines & Wineries
begins with individual chapters on the state’s history, its viticultural areas, and grapes. Gregutt then follows with the state’s top twenty vineyards - an expansion from the ten vineyards listed in the first edition. Vineyards in this chapter are divided into ‘Grand Cru’ and ‘Premier Cru’ sites.

The meat of the book, however, is the four chapters and almost two hundred pages devoted to the state’s wineries. While the first edition included about one quarter of the state’s wineries in its chapters, the new edition has been expanded to include one third. The number of entries has approximately doubled.

Gregutt uses the same standards to evaluate wineries he used in the first edition. However, he replaces the controversial 100-point system he used previously with a star-based system. Chapters are devoted to five star wineries, four star wineries, three star wineries, and ‘rising stars.’ Each of these chapters begins with an explanation of the criteria used for including a winery.

While the list of wineries in the book has nearly doubled, any such list is bound to stir discussion and dissent about which wineries are included, which are not, and where they are ranked. Gregutt acknowledges this, writing, “Like any list, it can be challenged, argued over, or picked apart.” Reading an opinionated list is, of course, part of the fun and part of the point. Gregutt is bringing his extensive experience to bear in writing about these wineries. The introduction of the book provides a summary of the methodology Gregutt uses to evaluate wines. It also contains the disclaimer that some wineries do not submit wines for reviews and thus cannot be evaluated.

Overall, the second edition is much like a new book in many respects. Numerous aspects have been revised, added, or subtracted. Gone are most of the sidebars that were in the first edition, which, while interesting, distracted from the overall flow. Also gone are the chapters on the future of the industry, which are now condensed into the epilogue or removed entirely. The result is a considerably more fluid and compelling book.

In addition to these numerous expansions and improvements, there are a couple of hiccups in the second edition leftover from the first. The chapter on the state’s grapes, which provides a fairly exhaustive listing, gets bogged down at times. Ordering the more important grapes and the lesser players might make for easier reading for those unfamiliar with Washington. Additionally, the ‘best varietally labeled bottles’ lists get long for certain grapes. Picking the top twenty or so, while no doubt controversial, might provide higher value to consumers. Still, these distractions are minor.

Ultimately, Washington Wines & Wineries is indeed an essential guide. It more than amply accomplishes its intention of providing the reader with background on Washington State, its wines, and many of the best wineries. For anyone interested in the subject, it is, quite simply, the indispensable and authoritative book on the subject.

Gregutt concludes the second edition by writing, “Those of us fortunate enough to live and work here invite the rest of you to come visit and see what all the excitement is about.” Hear hear.


Note: Paul Gregutt will be signing copies of Washington Wines & Wineries: the Essential Guide at Full Pull Wines Thursday September 9th. Look for additional signing events on Facebook.

Book received as promotional copy.

Eighteen years ago today (off-topic)

Larry Bird retired from the Boston Celtics eighteen years ago today. Growing up outside of Boston, Bird was my childhood hero. Bird said to eat a McChicken; I ate a McChicken. Bird said to wear Converse sneakers; I wore Converse sneakers. It was that sort of thing. He left an indelible mark on my childhood and my life, teaching lessons of hard work, determination, and perseverance.

The year Bird retired, I was living in the North End of Boston about two blocks from the Boston Garden. It was long known that Bird would be retiring at the end of the season, plagued by chronic back problems that cut his career short. I went to more than forty games that season, including more than half of their regular season games and all of the playoff games. I wanted to take in every moment I could of Bird’s career.

I was there for Larry’s last great game, a double overtime victory over the Portland Trailblazers. Bird tied the game in regulation and scored 49 points. I remember him saying after the game, “You keep going to the well, the well runs dry.” Still makes me sad thinking about those words. A friend was waiting for me outside the arena for over an hour and a half for the game to get out. This was, of course, back before cell phones when you could just call someone. Suffice to say that there was no way that I was going to leave that game. While she was sitting on the curb waiting for me, someone passed by and dropped some change into her coffee cup. She must have looked that forlorn. I’m not sure she ever forgave me for that moment. I know I never forgot that game.

All these years later, Bird is still with me in many ways. During the Celtics’ recent playoff run, I purchased a number of DVDs with games from Bird’s career. It’s been fun to re-watch some of those moments. It seems hard to believe that it was all those years ago. I remember many things from Bird’s press conference the day he retired. I can’t say I remembered just how ugly that shirt was he was wearing though.

Anyway, here’s to Larry Bird. Thanks for all of the memories.

Riesling Popsicles - a new summer sensation

Long time readers know of my concern (obsession?) with wine temperature. Summer is thus a particularly challenging time for me. I am constantly transferring wines from the fridge to the ice bucket to the freezer. I work on perfecting the frosted wine glass to combat the warmer weather. Is five minutes in the freezer sufficient to cool the glass down or does it need to be ten? What about the fridge? However, after recently stashing a bottle of wine in the freezer – and forgetting to take it out – I had a heat wave-inspired idea. Riesling Popsicles. Here’s how to make them – or try to.

First, start with your Popsicle molds. These can be a little difficult to come by but craft stores should have them. In my case, the mold from Bed, Bath, and Beyond (as in, way, way beyond) also came with straws on the sides for those days when slushies are more appropriate. Paper cups and plastic spoons will work when desperate measures are called for or times are tight.

Second, choose your Riesling. One beautiful thing about Riesling is you can leverage the International Riesling Foundation taste profile to dial in the style of Popsicle you want - dry, off-dry, or sweet. For my Popsicles, I used two wines – Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Dry Riesling as well as their Harvest Select Riesling, which is sweeter.

Third, pour your Riesling into the mold and place the Popsicles in the freezer. After the Popsicles have set in the mold – about two hours – turn the mold over to allow the Popsicles to set better to the stick. This is the critical step! Do it too late and they won't stick. Do it too early and things are FUBAR. I recommend putting something beneath the Popsicles in case they drip. Note that the style of Riesling you have chosen may affect how long the Popsicles take to freeze. Leave them overnight for best results. If you are using a German Riesling, make sure to use a timer.

Finally, remove your Riesling Popsicles from the mold and enjoy - almost.

Here’s the catch (there’s always a catch). First, there are some aesthetic issues when creating the Riesling Popsicles. Clear Popsicle molds with Riesling look distinctly like urine samples. Second, and more importantly, the Popsicles can come out a wee bit slushy. Getting them to adhere to the stick can be tricky if not impossible. Having a bowl on hand - and spoon - is recommended. They require extremely fast consumption, which is, thankfully, not a problem. Some of your sommelier friends may tell you that the alcohol has come out of balance, but they miss the point entirely. I found the Harvest Select Riesling, which has more sugar, to be considerably more enjoyable.

I am still trying to find the magic ingredient to hold the Riesling Popsicles together - I seem to recall a winemaker saying something about watering back?

Washington Wine Round-up August 8th to 14th

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from August 8th to 14th. Please add links to articles I missed during this time period to the comments section. See previous round-ups here.

From around the country…


The Associated Press writes about Northwest wineries attempting to access the Chinese market.


From the blogosphere…


Tourism Walla Walla says veraison is on the way.

Paul Gregutt
writes about celebrity wines with a callout to Drew Bledsoe’s Doubleback. He also writes about a Northstar vertical. See part two here.

Drink Nectar
writes about Desert Wind having an on-line release of their Ora white wine. Josh also writes about L’Ecole No. 41.

Wine and Beer of Washington State
writes about Coyote Canyon. They also write about David Lake and wine pairing. They also give a latest - and greatest - edition of ‘Where in the world is Ebony?’ (picture not to be missed).

My Winery Words
does a video post on Tero Estates. Allie also does a post on Wind River and Syncline Wine Cellars.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine
writes about Skylite Cellars Malbec. Catie also writes about Otis Kenyon’s Merlot, appellations, Waters Winery’s 2009 Syrahs.

Palate Press writes about Spokane.

Woodinville Wine Update
writes about Obelisco.

Write for Wine
writes about L’Ecole No. 41 and Va Piano. Margot also writes about the Auction of Washington Wines.

Northwest Wine
writes about Pinot Gris.

Cork’d writes about Hard Row to Hoe. They also write about Chinese interest in Washington wine.

Wine Peeps
writes about Maryhill. They also write about K Vintners The Boy and Kevin Pogue's Walla Walla terroir talk at WBC.

Organic Wine Review posts a video blog on Hedges Red Mountain 2007.

Sip of Spokane writes about L’Ecole No. 41. They also write about Nodland Cellars.

Washington Wine
writes about the 2007 Avery Lane Cabernet Sauvignon.

WAWineman writes about Kiona's 2003 Reserve Syrah. He also writes about Owen Roe's 2008 Abbott's Table, and Oakwood Cellars 2007 Lemberger Blanc.

The Grumpy Winemaker says to buy Washington wine…or else! He also says to give wineries a break.

The Underground Winos write about Robert Smasne’s birthday party and Picazo 7Seventeen.

WINO Magazine
writes about the Metropolitan Market 2009 Selection #3 White.

Under the Grape Tree
writes about Barnard Griffin and Maryhill. He also writes about the Columbia Crest Pinot Gris.

Cork Popper
writes about the 2006 Calico Red. They also write about the 2006 Robert Karl Claret, 2007 Syncline Subduction Red, and Washington reds.

RJ’s Wine Blog
writes about a 1994 Quilceda Creek.

AMS Inspection Services
writes about upcoming resort plans in Washington.

My Ballard
writes about a wine tasting room opening up in the area.

Winecation
writes about Walla Walla.

Wenatchee World
writes about the Waterville Fair.

The Wine Buyer
writes about the Revelry Cabernet.

One Rich Wine Guy
writes about Watermill Winery. He also writes about Woodward Canyon.

NaveenJainBlog.com
writes about Washington wine in China.

Red, White, and Food
writes about the 2008 Renegade Wine Co’s Horse Heaven Hills Red Wine.

Wine…When It’s Time
writes about Washington wine month, Quilceda Creek, and Garrison Creek.

Really Red Wine writes about unusual U.S. wine touring places, including Walla Walla and Bellingham.


From the locals…


The Olympian
writes about McCrea Cellars new tasting room.

The Tri-city Herald writes that the spotted winged drosophila hasn’t hit wine grapes yet. They also write about the passing of Bud Mercer and a grant to the Washington foundation.

The News Tribune writes about McCrea Cellars opening a tasting room in Olympia.

The Walla Walla Union-Bulletin writes about the area’s geological history. They also write (via TradingMarkets.com) about Virginie Bourgue making wine for Olympic Cellars.

The Seattle Times writes about Sunnyside looking to attract tourists. They also write about the upcoming state liquor initiatives.

The Yakima Herald writes about a proposed WSU wine science center.

KNDO
writes about Salmon Safe wines catching on in the Northwest.

Walla Walla Wine News.com
gives some August wine news.


Leftovers (posts from previous weeks)…


Wine Buzzzz writes about wine tripping in western Washington.

The Idaho Statesmen
writes about Walla Walla’s continued evolution as a wine region

Grand Rêve aims to change Washington wine - and the world’s understanding of it

What follows is a Focus report on Grand Rêve. Download a .pdf version of this report here. Read previous Focus reports here.

Grand Rêve – the name of a new winery in Washington State - translates to ‘great dream.’ And what a great dream it is.

Our story starts when businessman Paul McBride moved to Washington in 1994. Before moving to the state, he didn’t know much about Washington wine. “I was a big California guy,” McBride says. “I didn’t really give Washington much credibility at all.” After relocating to Washington and tasting wines from some of the state’s finest wineries, including Quilceda Creek, Leonetti, and Woodward Canyon, McBride’s opinion of Washington started to change. He says, “It seemed like the handwriting was on the wall that Washington would become, in time, a world class wine producing area.” Still, McBride thought that time might be a ways off. He soon became interested in hastening Washington’s arrival on the world stage.

McBride decided to focus his efforts on establishing a vineyard in Washington. The question was, where? At the time, he had already invested in a winery in Oregon. During a meeting at the winery, someone mentioned Washington’s Red Mountain as critical to their business model. McBride was struck by the perceived importance of Red Mountain fruit by an Oregon winery. After that conversation, McBride says, “I zeroed in on Red Mountain like a laser beam and learned all I could about it.”

What he learned was that Red Mountain was the most highly regarded piece of wine real estate in Washington. Red Mountain’s prominence was reinforced after McBride asked a friend at a Silicon Valley bank about their lending policy for vineyards. His friend said the bank only considered lending for sites in ‘sure thing,’ well-established regions, such as Napa and Sonoma. There was, however, one exception - Red Mountain, Washington. The comment came with no knowledge that McBride was interested in Red Mountain. It was validation that he was on the right track.

* * *

The story continues with Ryan Johnson. Johnson works as vineyard manager at Red Mountain’s Ciel du Cheval, one of the most highly regarded vineyards in Washington State. Fruit from Ciel goes into many of Washington’s best wines, including those from Andrew Will, Betz Family Winery, Januik, McCrea, and numerous others. In a state that is placing an increasing emphasis on viticulture, Johnson is considered one of the best.

A number of years ago Johnson was approached by Ben Smith of Cadence Winery. Smith already owned a piece of property on Red Mountain and was interested in having Johnson establish a vineyard for him. At the time, Johnson was busy planting and managing new vineyard sites for DeLille Cellars and Quilceda Creek. He declined.

Smith, however, was persistent and asked Johnson about the possibility again the following year. Johnson had provided Smith with Ciel du Cheval fruit for years and had enormous respect for him as a winemaker (deservedly so as the Cadence wines are some of the best in the state). However, Johnson knew the cost of establishing the vineyard would be prohibitive for Smith. Johnson says, “I didn’t think he’d be able to pay me enough money to make it worth my while, but the guy is a fantastic winemaker.”

And in those words was an idea. Johnson would plant Smith’s vineyard in exchange for Smith making wine. Johnson would later sell the wine to recoup expenses. Johnson and Smith settled on two hundred cases. For the wine, Johnson would provide Smith with fruit from some of Ciel du Cheval’s oldest and most coveted blocks. While Johnson soon had the wine in hand, at that point there was no name or label to sell it under. Johnson says instead it was, “Hey, let’s get some great juice and have that in our back pocket.” Johnson figured the right opportunity would arise. It was about this time that he met Paul McBride met.

A Grand Collaboration

Talking with Johnson and McBride, two things become immediately clear. The first is that they are both extremely passionate about wine. The second is that these guys like each other; they are cut from a similar cloth. Indeed, in Johnson, McBride found someone of a similar mindset. McBride says, “He wasn’t just out farming. He was passionate, passionate about viticulture and wine and really wanting to take Washington to the next level.” As McBride and Johnson talked more, the makings of a great dream began. McBride continues, “Our thoughts and motives were lined up so well that it made sense to combine forces and do something special.”

Around this time Long Shadows was beginning to make a name for itself by having world-renowned winemakers make wine from Washington fruit. Johnson and McBride envisioned a variation on this theme.

McBride says, “Ryan had a unique catbird’s seat having managed Ciel du Cheval for, this will be his twelfth vintage. Ciel sells fruit to the top thirty winemakers in the state. So he had been able to taste vintage after vintage after vintage.” Johnson’s experience made it easy to see who was doing special things with Ciel du Cheval fruit. Johnson and McBride wondered, what if, they created a winery that paired some of Washington’s best winemakers with fruit from one of the state’s best vineyards – Ciel du Cheval?

As the discussions evolved, Johnson and McBride began to talk about winemakers. They already had Ben Smith and the original wine from the 2004 vintage to use for the project. As they discussed other people, they made a bold decision. Rather than ask the state’s most established winemakers, they would ask some of Washington’s best up-and-coming winemakers. Johnson says, “We were kind of young and up and coming with our big dreams of doing something special on the farming side. And so it felt appropriate to match up with some of these rising star winemakers.”

Johnson and McBride chose people who they felt wine lovers would soon be excited about if they weren’t already. In addition to choosing winemakers on the way up, McBride and Johnson also focused on people they liked both personally and professionally. The wine, of course, was important too. McBride, says, “At the end of the day, the guys that we chose, we had to be able to like drinking their wines.”

The Collaboration Series Wines

The winemakers they approached were Ben Smith of Cadence; Ross Mickel of Ross Andrew; Mark McNeilly of Mark Ryan Winery; Carolyn Lakewold of Donedei; Chris Gorman of Gorman Winery; and, most recently, James Mantone of Syncline Wine Cellars. The response? “All of them jumped on board without hesitation,” McBride says. Part of the lure was providing access to some of Ciel du Cheval’s best fruit. Johnson says, “We have winemakers that, on their own wouldn’t have had access to some of these blocks, but together, they could.” For Johnson and McBride, it was the collaborative aspect of the project that was the most critical. For this reason, they dubbed the project ‘The Collaboration Series.’

For the Collaboration Series wines, Grand Rêve has each winemaker make one wine that focuses on a particular style with a thematic purpose. McBride says, “We think each of these winemakers have a very distinct and unique approach to their wines.” However, McBride and Johnson were not just looking for the winemakers to remake their original wines under a different label. McBride says, “We don’t want them to just replicate their style. We want them to take an approach and create a wine that’s unique.”

For the project, each wine is given a Roman numeral, from I to VI. Each of the numbers corresponds to a specific winemaker. Although distinguishing wines differentiated by numbers can be difficult for consumers, McBride says, “The wines are like jersey numbers. If you ever get a Collaboration I wine, it’s Ben Smith.”

The Collaboration Series is not just a business venture. Johnson says, “We’ve developed friendships with these guys, so it’s one of these things where it’s very personal. I don’t want to disappoint them. They obviously don’t want to disappoint us, and there’s a bit of a friendly competition that goes on.” McBride adds, “We really like all of the guys we work with. We want this to be fun where everyone is going to benefit. It’s a true partnership in that regard.”

Wines Made in the Vineyard

While Ciel du Cheval is already a special site, the Collaboration Series wines are the result of an extreme focus at the vineyard. Johnson says, “This is my own special attention to detail. I’m going in row by row, marking off plants I don’t like, or tweaking these plants, cutting off clusters, cutting off wings, shoulders, positioning canes just so, and in some cases I’m even picking the viognier myself to co-ferment…I can’t replicate this on a commercial scale. This is kind of me doing stuff after hours.” McBride puts it more simply, saying, “Behind every great wine there is a great grower.”

Although there are no plans at present to expand the number of winemakers in the Collaboration Series, Grand Rêve has made several reserve wines as well. One is a 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, which is one hundred percent varietal. 2007 was a special vintage in Washington. Johnson says of the vintage, “You taste the fruit and there’s a moment when you go, ‘Oh. This is unlike any other vintage.’” Rather than having the wine made by an individual winemaker, Johnson and McBride had Ross Mickel and Mark McNeilly each make two barrels. The barrels were subsequently blended together. The results are stunning, easily one of the best Cabernet Sauvignons I have had from Washington State. Johnson says of the wine, “I wish we could replicate this every year.” This wine is due to be released in the fall.

Ben Smith has also made a reserve Syrah for the winery. This wine will be barrel aged for thirty-eight months. While this extended oak aging may seem extreme, Johnson says, “You don’t know what that maximum expression of anything is going to be until you push it…We have that flexibility to experiment and explore.”

Grand Rêve Vineyard

Grand Rêve’s exploration is not just centered on Ciel du Cheval Vineyard. Johnson and McBride are also focused on creating their own special vineyard site on Red Mountain. In creating a new vineyard, McBride says, “I became convinced that the way to help Washington become great was going to be on the viticultural side.” With Johnson, he had the perfect partner.

Johnson had already spent time investigating some of the world’s most famous wine regions that had vineyards planted in marginal conditions. One of those was Hermitage, known for its terraced vineyards. Johnson says of Hermitage, “Sane people wouldn’t consider planting there, but they are making some of the most compelling wines in the world.” Johnson and McBride began to consider doing something similar on Red Mountain.

They began to discuss hillside planting. Johnson says, “The more time we spent on the hill, the more time we started to look upwards. We thought, if we could plant some Syrah and not kill it off, it might make some very, very extraordinary wine.” They decided to establish Red Mountain’s first hillside vineyard.

The vineyard would be extremely challenging from the beginning. McBride says, “It is fun though and a little nerve wracking trying to do this for the first time. You can’t go to a book and say ‘how to plant hillside vineyards.’ You just look at it and you go, ‘Well what do you think Ryan?’ And he says, ‘I don’t know. What do you think?’ and I say, ‘Well, I don’t know.’”

They started with a soil analysis from Alan Busacca, digging a series of fifty-seven soil pits to assist with matching variety to soil type. What Busacca found was more complex than they could have imagined. There was no one-acre block that was completely uniform. Instead the blocks twisted and turned. In the end they arrived at thirty-four blocks – more “strips” Johnson says. The blocks were spread across thirteen plantable acres, although some may dispute the definition of ‘plantable.’

The elevation of the vineyard ranges from 960 to 1,230 feet and is, at times, at a considerable inclination. With much of the terrain steep and rocky, it took time to determine a plan of attack. Johnson says, “It took about a year to dream about it, to think about it, and to come up with a plan.” He continues, “I kept waking up at 2:30 in the morning in a cold sweat wondering, ‘How in the heck are we going to do this?’”

The vineyard is planted with extremely tight spacing, meter to meter and a half. Most of the blocks are less than one quarter of an acre in size. Like the soil underneath them, the blocks wind and weave. Johnson says, “Every block here is designed for the optimum way to express that corner of the vineyard. It’s a nightmare and I’ll probably regret this, but it’s not about ease of environment. It’s about making this the best vineyard we can.”

Due to the steepness of the terrain and the tight spacing, there is currently no mechanization. Johnson says, “I tried to take up a four wheeler and crashed.” As a result the vineyard is hand hoed and sprayed using backpack sprayers. Johnson says, somewhat jokingly, “We’re risking our life and limb every day that we go up there. At some point you might see a blur of clothing and a Carhartt hat go by you and that’s me.”

The vineyard workers have given specific blocks colorful names, some of which reflect the difficulty of the site, such as ‘El Terror’ and ‘The Devil’s Playground.’ McBride agrees that establishing the vineyard has not been easy, saying, “There were times we were cursing at (Ryan) and swearing at him. It will remain to be seen whether economically it will ever pay off, but we’re in it for the long term.”

What will come out of the Grand Rêve Vineyard in terms of wine? It remains to be seen. The first fruit from the vineyard will be harvested in 2010. While the Collaboration Series wines from Ciel du Cheval Vineyard focus on thematic styles, the Grand Rêve Vineyard wines will focus exclusively on expressing the vineyard site. McBride says, “We would like to have a distinctive wine that tastes like that site and like nowhere else.” Specific plans for the wines are still being determined. However, McBride and Johnson anticipate a hillside wine that will most likely be a Northern Rhone style and also a Southern Rhone-style wine. Additionally, there will be a focus on Bordeaux varietals lower down in the vineyard.

Elevating Washington Wine

Grand Rêve’s production is small and McBride and Johnson intend to keep it that way. The Collaboration Series wines from Ciel du Cheval will be about 1,000 cases and the Grand Rêve Vineyard wines will, over time, grow to 1,000 cases. A facility may eventually be built at the vineyard.

The Grand Reve project is unique and is intended to show just how far Washington has come as a wine region. McBride says, “When you think about the combined experience of all of these winemakers and Ryan and all of the viticulture that Jim Holmes has conveyed, this represents a huge culmination of the experience in Washington to date.”

While many would be out for money, fame, or both, McBride and Johnson’s say their impetus was simpler. McBride says, “Our goal was really just to help elevate Washington viticulture to the point where it would compare with the other great areas of the world. We want to show the world that Washington is a force to be reckoned with and that we can do some special, special stuff.” Similarly, Johnson says that, while some of the inspiration for the Grand Rêve Vineyard came from world-famous areas like Hermitage, Priorat, and Côte Rôtie, the winery will follow its own path. Johnson says, “We’re not trying to imitate. We’re inspired.” He finishes by saying, “If we can’t express our terroir through doing this, then I give up.”

Wine Reviews

Grand Rêve Collaboration Series I Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2004 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Drop dead gorgeous aromatics with black cherry, licorice, earth, and light mineral notes along with a dusting of chocolate. A nose to linger over for a long, long time. On the palate, beautifully structured with richer, more intense fruit flavors than often seen on the Cadence wines. Finish continues for as long as you want to count. 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 18% Petit Verdot (co-fermented with Cabernet Franc). Aged 24 months in French oak (70% new). 14.5% Alcohol, 137 Cases produced. Ben Smith (Cadence) winemaker.

Grand Rêve Collaboration Series I Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2006 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Fairly closed up at the moment. Dusky spice and dust on a nose redolent with olive, currant, earth, and kisses of chocolate. On the taste, rich and intensely focused fruit and firm but polished tannins. More opulent than the 2004 offering. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 12% Petit Verdot, 12% Merlot. Aged in French oak (70% new). 14.5% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Ben Smith (Cadence) winemaker.

Grand Rêve Collaboration Series II Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2007 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Brilliantly colored with a purple rim. A gorgeously appealing nose with a cornucopia of red fruit, earth, floral notes, and light game. Rich with luscious fruit on the palate. 55% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 19% Mourvedre, 1% Viognier. Aged in French oak (40% new). 14.8% alcohol. 184 cases produced. Ross Mickel (Ross Andrew) winemaker.

Grand Rêve Collaboration Series III Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2007 $45
Rating:
** (Exceptional) Purple in color. Closed up at present on a nose that shows chocolate, black fruit, raspberries, and floral notes. Remarkably restrained on a seamless palate marked by pretty red and black fruit. Give three years. 100% Syrah. Aged in French oak (34% new). 14.9% alcohol. 250 cases produced. Mark Ryan McNeilly (Mark Ryan) winemaker.

Grand Rêve Collaboration Series IV Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2006 $55
Rating:
* (Excellent) Lots of cherry cola, Red Vines, and licorice on an aromatic nose. Rich and powerful on the taste with opulent amounts of fruit and velvety tannins. 75% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc. Aged in French (60%) and American (40%) oak. 13.7% alcohol. 198 cases produced. Caryoln Lakewold (Donedei) winemaker.

Grand Rêve Collaboration Series V Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $55
Rating:
** (Exceptional) A beautiful, complex aroma profile with violets, abundant red fruit, and minerals. An unapologetically big, rich, powerful, smack-you-in-the-face type of wine with gobs of red fruit. The alcohol level is high on this wine but it works. 90% Grenache, 10% Syrah. Aged 15 months in French Burgundy barrels (100% new). 15.5% Alcohol. 100 cases produced. To be released fall 2010. Chris Gorman (Gorman Winery) winemaker.

Grand Rêve Collaboration Series Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Price To Be Determined
Rating:
** (Exceptional) Black licorice, light herbal streaks, coffee, high-toned fruit, and chocolate on an alluring, although still moderately closed up nose. On the palate, a complete ‘Wow!’ wine with a beautiful texture, incredibly focused fruit, and firm but appealing tannins. A statement of a Washington State Cabernet that is among the finest I have had. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 24 months in French oak (100% new). 14.3% Alcohol. 100 cases produced. To be released fall 2010. Mark McNeilly (Mark Ryan) and Ross Mickel (Ross Andrew) winemakers.

Photos courtesy of Grand Rêve Vintners.

August Virtual Tasting - Chinook Cabernet Franc Rose 2009

Please note: The date of the August Virtual Tasting has been moved to Tuesday August 31st.

Our August Virtual Tasting wine, as suggested by Chef Frank Magaña at Picazo 7Seventeen, will be the 2009 Chinook Cabernet Franc Rose. This wine retails for $15 and is widely available. The tasting will take place on Thursday, August 26th from 7-8pm Pacific Time.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery

2. Post your comments/tweets on the wine that night between 7 and 8pm. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport. I will be using the hashtag #wawine during the event.

Hope you'll join us!

Tero Estates - A slice of Washington wine history and wine touring Nirvana

Tero Estates is set apart from its peers in the Walla Walla Valley. The drive out to the winery, which goes deep into the heart of the ‘occupied area’ of the Walla Walla Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) south of the Washington border, is somewhat long but incredibly scenic. The twists and turns take one past some of the valley’s most prestigious vineyards – many of them marked, many of them not. With each passing mile the views get more expansive and impressive, and one seems to be transported to another, more peaceful world.

Stepping out of the car, I am struck by two things: the breathtaking beauty of the site and the awesome silence. There is barely a sound to be heard, and I am reminded of being out in the mountains instead of deep in the heart of wheat and wine country. This is exactly what one wants a trip to wine country to be – relaxing and transformative.

Jan Roskelly of Tero comes to greet me followed by numerous cats and dogs, which patrol the grounds. Jan, her husband Doug, and their partner Mike Tembreull, purchased Windrow Vineyards, Tero’s estate vineyard, in June of 2007. The winery’s name is a combination of the names TEmbreull and ROskelly.

Windrow Vineyards’ first plantings date back to the early days of Walla Walla Valley’s modern wine history. Dr. Herbert Hendricks put in the first vines at what was then Seven Hills Vineyard in 1980 and 1981. Fellow physician James McClellan (Casey McClellan's father) partnered with Hendricks in 1983, and additional acreage was planted in the ensuing years. Seven Hills Vineyard was subsequently split and sold in the mid nineties with Scott Hendricks retaining a portion of the vineyard that he renamed Windrow. This included a small amount of the 1980 plantings and substantial plantings from 1986. The vineyard was later expanded, including the addition of the colorfully named ‘Varsity Block,’ a Cabernet Sauvignon block planted by the Mac-Hi basketball team in 1998.

The list of wineries that purchased fruit from the original Seven Hills Vineyard – some of whom have subsequently purchased fruit from Windrow – is a who’s who of the valley’s history, including Leonetti Cellar (which used Windrow Cabernet up until 2000), L’Ecole (which made a Windrow Vineyard designate in 1995), and Walla Walla Vintners. More recently, wineries such as Glencorrie, Bunchgrass, and Cooper Wine Company in addition to numerous others have also purchased fruit from Windrow.

Before moving to the Walla Walla Valley, the Roskellys lived for twenty-eight years in Woodinville, where Doug worked in the construction industry. Roskelly, a burly man with a thick, bushy beard, jokingly refers to the winery and vineyard as a "retirement project."

While many often think of owning a vineyard and a winery as romantic, the reality is often far from it. The Roskellys have been living in a trailer at the vineyard for the last fifteen-plus months while the winery buildings are finished.

Tero’s building plans include a winery facility and office (mostly finished), domicile (somewhat finished), and tasting room (not yet started). Roskelly designed the iconic winery building, which features a spiral staircase leading up to a patio with commanding views of the surrounding vineyard. Part of the original structure was an equipment shed where the first discussions about the Walla Walla Valley AVA were said to have taken place. Roskelly incorporated this shed into the new structure to preserve its historical significance.

In terms of the vineyard, the new owners have tried to keep some things the same and improve on others. They have maintained the same vineyard team, including the vineyard manager, Esteban Albarran, who has worked at the property for sixteen years. They put in drip irrigation and planted additional acres of vines. The plantings include Charbono, which the Roskellys believe is among the first in the Walla Walla Valley. Overall, Windrow now has 25 acres under cultivation.

Doug Roskelly is the winemaker for Tero with Ashley Trout of Flying Trout Wines working as his assistant as of late 2009 (look for a subsequent post on the Flying Trout Wines). Roskelly started out making garage wine in Woodinville. He says, “When I got to two barrels I said, time to make a serious decision here.” Roskelly heard that Windrow Vineyard was for sale and made a serious decision.

Stylistically, Roskelly likes big, but balanced, wines, saying, “I don’t like wimpy wines personally.” Tero Estates’ initial wines – which are not wimpy but are also far from colossal - will be released in October. The wines sampled below are an impressive debut. They include a Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Franc; a Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon; and a wine called simply Windrow.

The Windrow is a particularly compelling wine whose percentage of Bordeaux grapes is based on the plantings at the vineyard - 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Malbec. The wine is a field blend with all of the grapes picked on the same day and subsequently fermented together. Roskelly says, “This is the truest representation of Windrow terroir that I can produce.”

While much work remains to be done at the winery and vineyard - on the day I visited Jan Roskelly gleefully pointed out the recently arrived but not yet installed bathroom fixtures for the house - Tero Estates promises to continue and expand upon Windrow's long history.


Tero Estates made 600 cases in its first vintage. The winery plans to grow to 3,200 cases over a ten-year period.

Tero Estates Cabernet Franc Windrow Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $38

Rating: * (Excellent) Tea leaves, chocolate, pepper, and herbal notes on a pleasing, moderately aromatic nose. A round, plush, silky palate, beautifully stitched together with rich fruit accented by chocolate flavors. 100% Cabernet Franc. 14.5% alcohol. 68 cases produced.

Tero Estates Windrow Windrow Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $45

Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with rich black cherry aromas, milk chocolate, tobacco leaf, and pepper. The palate is marked by rich, tightly wound up fruit wrapped in a silky layer of oak. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Malbec. 14.1% alcohol. 108 cases produced.

Tero Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007 $42

Rating: * (Excellent) Very pretty, compelling aromatics of herbal notes, black cherry, and light chocolate. Deliciously rich, chewy fruit on the palate. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. Windrow, Dwelley, LaTour, Les Collines, and Spofford Station vineyards. 14.2% alcohol. 240 cases produced.