Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report Note: Site has moved to www.northwestwinereport.com: July 2010

July Five Under $15: Summer Whites

In tough times we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines. With summer already waning – didn’t it start barely three weeks ago? – we focus on white wines this month.

Wines of Substance is a project from Jamie Brown of Waters Winery and Greg Harrington of Gramercy Cellars. The winery focuses on single varietal offerings with each of the wines featuring black and white labels with a periodic table style notation. The 2009 Pinot Gris is a fairly full-bodied white with callouts to the Old World.

Chateau Ste. Michelle is the world’s largest producer of Riesling and also one of its biggest champions. The winery recently conducted its third Riesling Rendezvous, bringing together growers, winemakers, and people from around the industry for a three day series of seminars and discussions about the grape. Chateau Ste. Michelle makes numerous different Rieslings – as many as eight in any given year – from dry to off-dry to sweet. The winery is one of a number utlitizing the International Riesling Foundation’s taste profile to assist consumers with understanding the level of sweetness of a wine before purchase. The two wines are featured here are Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Dry Riesling and its Columbia Valley Riesling, which is off-dry. When the previous vintage of the Dry Riesling was blind tasted at the Riesling Rendezvous and white winemaker Wendy Stuckey announced its retail price, the room spontaneously burst into applause. This vintage is every bit as good.

Aligoté has extensive plantings in Eastern Europe and plays second fiddle to Chardonnay in Burgundy in terms of white grapes. However, it is a rare varietal in Washington. This wine, which comes from Jed Steele’s Shooting Star, uses fruit from Snipes Mountain AVA. The wine is barrel fermented using mostly neutral wood.

Rob Griffin of Barnard Griffin – whose wife Deborah provides the first half of the winery name - began making wine under his own label in 1983. Barnard Griffin started out that year making four hundred cases of wine. The winery has since grown to become one of Washington’s larger mid-sized producers with an annual production of more than 75,000 cases. Indeed, Barnard Griffin makes a staggering 22,000 cases of the Chardonnay reviewed below.

Related Posts
Previous months' Five Under $15

Wines of Substance Pinot Gris Washington State 2009 $15
Rating: + (Good) Nose is marked by pink grapefruit, Golden Delicious apples, and mineral notes. Tingles the tongue with acidity on a palate full of melon flavors. 100% Pinot Gris. Minnick Vineyard, Yakima Valley. Aged in stainless steel. Recommended.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling Columbia Valley 2009 $9
Rating: + (Good) An appealing, aromatic nose with lime, lemon, and mineral. Bone dry on a palate full of fruit. 100% Riesling. 13% alcohol. Recommended.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling Columbia Valley 2009 $9
Rating: + (Good) An aromatic nose with lime, stone fruit, and mineral. Palate shows just the slightest bit of sweetness nicely balanced by acidity. Abundant lime and honeydew melon flavors. Recommended.

Shooting Star Aligote Washington State 2008 $14
Rating: + (Good) Lightly aromatic nose with floral and mineral notes along with a distinctive flint aroma. Palate is crisp with puckering acidity and Granny Smith apple flavors. Not a wine to drink on its own but a nice accompaniment to the dinner table. 13.5% alcohol.

Barnard Griffin Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2008 $14
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Nose initially shows some tropical fruit aromas which quickly change to sliced yellow apples, grass, and mineral. A lot of fruit on the palate but needs a bit more acidity to hold it all together. Still, a quite enjoyable for the price. 100% Chardonnay. Caroway, Sagemoor, Conner Lee, and Arête vineyards. 19% barrel fermented in French oak. 40% malolactic fermentation. 12.9% alcohol. 23,000 cases produced.

July Virtual Tasting - Hogue 2007 Genesis Syrah

Our July Virtual Tasting is tonight! The tasting will take place between 7-8pm Pacific Time. The wine is the 2007 Hogue Genesis Syrah.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery

2. Post your comments/tweets on the wine tonight between 7 and 8pm. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport. I will be using the hashtag #wawine during the event.

Look for updates to the blog and comments and tweets from virtual tasters starting at 7pm. Hope you'll join us.

8:00pm Update: Thanks to all who participated tonight on the blog and those on Twitter, including Perednia, LaurieBLondon, yakyakwine, wino4ever, TheTroyBarrett, MargoAndTroy, clairemccool, TableTalkJP, @chefmagana, WriteforWine, NemesisTed, sturat, mendypuckett, boxboylover, lindyirving, mother_night, CoteBChick.

Apologies if I missed anyone. We'll do it all again next month.

Cabernet is king at Abeja, but others vie for the crown

What follows is a section of my 2010 Walla Walla Spring Release Report. The report will be published in its entirety in .pdf form after the last entry is posted to the blog. See previous posts here.

Since Abeja's first release from the 2001 vintage, the winery has established itself as one of Washington’s premier producers of Cabernet Sauvignon - the 'King of Grapes.' While the winery also makes limited bottlings of Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Viognier – which are also consistently standouts that demand attention – Abeja's mission is Cabernet Sauvignon, which accounts for the majority of its production.

Among the many things to look forward to following any great vintage, such as 2007, are the releases from the best wineries. While almost across-the-board high quality fruit guarantees excellent wines from numerous producers, great vintages are where the best wineries shine and create something truly special. Abeja's 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was therefore a wine to be anticipated.

Winemaker John Abbott has seventeen years of experience making wine in Washington State and says that 2007 stands as one of the finest vintages during this time period. Abbott says of the vintage, “It is my second favorite vintage behind 1999 since I started making wine in Washington in 1993. The 2007 reds have big structure but still have finesse.”

With great vintages, sometimes everything comes a bit more slowly. Patience is required. Abbott says, “I found that the Cabernet took longer to reach flavor maturity on the vine, longer in the fermenter to achieve the balance we look for before pressing, longer to age in the barrel, and a bit longer to show bottle bouquet after bottling.”

Despite this - in fact because of it - the 2007 Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine worthy of both patience and anticipation. Still tightly wound, the wine shows itself slowly but powerfully with smoke, brambly berries, and bittersweet chocolate. The palate is rich and intense with layer upon layer of fruit. Drinking well now, the wine promises years of cellaring potential and is easily among the best Cabernets from the 2007 vintage.

Though drinking the 2007 Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon may feel a bit like opening one of the last presents on Christmas day, fear not. Abeja will be releasing its 2007 Reserve Cabernet this fall. Only made in select years – thus far 2002 and 2005 – this wine is 100% Cabernet made from the winery’s best barrels. A bit farther in the future, the winery will be releasing its first estate Cabernet next spring, which comes from the 2008 vintage.

While Abeja has made its name with Cabernet Sauvignon, the winery also recently received high praise for its 2008 Estate Syrah in the form of a 95-point rating from Wine Spectator. This puts the winery in rare company of those from Washington with wines that have received a ‘Classic’ rating from the publication. Can a Cabernet Sauvignon focused winery remain so while showing so much success with other varietals? Time will tell, but the king should sleep lightly.

Related Posts
Abeja (Fall Release 2009)

Abeja Chardonnay Washington State 2008 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) Very pale in color. An engaging nose with spice, hay, and freshly sliced apples. Rounded edges on a palate speckled with oak textures and crisp acidity. Finish lingers. 100% Chardonnay. Celilo, Conner Lee, Gamache, and Kestrel vineyards. Aged in French oak (50% new). 13.8% alcohol. 669 cases produced.

Abeja Viognier Estate Walla Walla Valley 2009 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Nose is marked by peaches, floral notes, honeysuckle, and honey. A rounded mouthfeel loaded with mineral and peaches. 100% Viognier. Mill Creek Vineyard. Aged in neutral French oak. 14.5% alcohol. 148 cases produced.

Abeja Syrah Estate Walla Walla Valley 2008 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) An appealing, aromatic nose with smoke, blueberry, and floral notes. Tart and pleasing on a fruit-filled palate. Best Syrah from the winery to date. Syrah co-fermented with 3% Viognier. Mill Creek Vineyard. Aged in French (50%), Hungarian (40%) and American oak. 14.8% alcohol. 271 cases produced.

Abeja House Red Columbia Valley 2008 $21
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with baker’s chocolate, brambly berries, and streaky herbal notes. Very evenly balanced on the palate. An outrageous value. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.2% Merlot, 4.9% Cabernet Franc, and 4.9% Petit Verdot. 14.5% alcohol. 1,040 cases produced.

Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 $43
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Blackberry, black cherry, chocolate, earth, and touches of spice on a complex, evolving nose. The palate brings rich, intense cherry fruit and chocolate. Easily among the best Cabernets the winery has ever produced. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. Heather Hill, Sagemoor (Bacchus and Weinbau), Hedges Estate, Blue Mountain, and Wallula vineyards. Aged in French oak (60% new). 14.9% alcohol. 2,294 cases produced.

Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $43
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Smoke, brambly berries, bittersweet chocolate, and high-toned floral notes. Delivers on the palate with richly flavored red and black fruit followed by a persistent finish. 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc. Heather Hill, Sagemoor (Bacchus and Dionysus), Hedges Estate, Blue Mountain, and Wallula vineyards. Aged in French oak (60% new). 14.8% alcohol. 3,357 cases produced.

Another Thought from Woodinville's Stevens Winery

Tim Stevens was studying English literature and working in a restaurant to make ends meet when he first became interested in wine. He subsequently met winemaker Matthew Loso at a tasting group in what would become a fateful meeting. He worked for two years as Loso’s assistant winemaker at Matthews (Loso has since moved on). After a consulting stint with Scott Greer at Sheridan Vineyard, Stevens and his wife Paige started Stevens Winery in 2002.

Stevens Winery has focused on small lot production of Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, Viognier, and Sauvignon Blanc. Formerly a commercial artist, each of the wines bear a unique label every vintage.

The 2009 Stevens Another Thought Sauvignon Blanc comes from Red Mountain’s Klipsun Vineyard. While this vineyard is best known for it’s powerful, tannic red wines, the 2009 Stevens wine shows that white wines can also excel there as well. The winery’s website gives a comical description of the wine stating, “White wine can be a monster to make and sometimes needs a lot of babysitting. We’ve done our share of watching this little devil and it’s paid off; this is our best Blanc yet.” Indeed this is an extremely compelling bottle with varietal aromatics of grass and herbal notes complemented by a palate loaded with fruit balanced by crisp acidity.

The front label on the bottle whimsically reads as follows: “Another Thought by Tim Stevens. I think too much and I know it. Mostly the wheels are just spinning. So here’s yet another thought. Good wine is good, but I believe that time and space play a role on how really ‘great’ it may taste. It could be you’re laughing with friends so hard you’re crying. Sip. Maybe you’re sitting on the back deck on a warm summer’s night. Sip. You think to yourself, boy does that taste amazing! I hope and pray, that, just maybe, one of my bottles finds this magical place. Anyway, it was just a thought.”

This wine did indeed find such a magical place. It is an exceptional summer wine that screams out for seafood. I purchased this bottle from Full Pull Wines, which continues to excel with its hand picked e-mail offerings.

Stevens Winery Another Thought Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley 2009 $19
Rating: * (Excellent) An intriguing nose with lime zest, grass, herbal notes, and mineral. Beautifully balanced and rounded on a palate full of crisp fruit flavors and a long, lingering finish. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Klipsun Vineyard. Aged in stainless steel. 13.9% alcohol. 120 cases produced.

Charles Smith - Coming Soon to a Bottle Near You

What follows is a section of my 2010 Walla Walla Spring Release Report. The report will be published in its entirety in .pdf form after the last entry is posted to the blog. See previous posts here.

Charles Smith of K Vintners continues along as an irrepressible force of nature. Much like his wines, he is almost unavoidable. In any given week, he's pictured in newspaper articles and blogs posts around the world, including a recent favorite from The Gray Market Report. One isn't even safe in the car with his visage now on three separate billboards in or around the Walla Walla Valley.

Smith has parlayed his marketing and promotional genius into a wine empire. Already far along the path to stardom with his omnipresent ‘House Wine’ from the Magnificent Wine Company and his highly rated micro-quantity wines from K Vintners and Charles Smith Wines, Smith rose to national prominence last year after receiving a 100 point score for his Royal City Syrah from Wine Enthusiast and being named Winemaker of the Year by Food & Wine Magazine.

K Vintners is where it all started. While Smith dabbles in a few different varietals at K, the winery is best known for its ‘K Syrah’ wines. The K wines are hand picked, foot crushed, and fermented with native yeasts. These wines are almost all produced in minute quantities and span a range of price points and styles. At the low end is the twenty-five dollar ‘Milbrandt’ Syrah. Like several of the wines reviewed here, this one comes from one of the Milbrandt vineyards on the Wahluke Slope. Smith continues to be a one-man marketing machine for the promise of Syrah from this area. The 2008 Milbrandt Syrah is as good as any from Washington at this price point and is the best K has produced from this vineyard to date. At the high end is the Phil Lane Syrah, which comes from the small vineyard adjacent to the winery in Walla Walla.

In addition to the numerous Syrahs that have made Smith famous – or did Smith make them famous? - K Vintners also produces Sangiovese (‘Guido’) and Grenache (‘The Boy’). The latter, which hails from Christophe Baron’s Armada Vineyard, is another compelling argument for the future of Grenache in Washington. This is a varietal on the way up. Other excellent examples come from Cayuse, Gramercy, Grand Reve, McCrea, and Rotie Cellars to name a few.

‘The Boy’ is named after a song by the same name by French artist Serge Gainsbourg. The technical sheet reads “The lyrics go, ‘I am the boy who can enjoy invisibility’ - a sentiment much enjoyed by Charles.” While his enjoyment of invisibility might be questioned - if we can't hide from him, how can he hide from us let alone enjoy it? - his mastery of marketing, as well as irony, would not be.

K Vintners Viognier Columbia Valley 2009 $20
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) A bouquet of flowers along with peaches and mineral notes on an aromatic wine. Palate brings a lot of fruit and a pleasing tingle of acidity. Barrel fermented in neutral French Burgundy barrels. 14.1% alcohol.

K Vintners Milbrandt Syrah Wahluke Slope 2008 $25
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Light in color. A very alluring nose with light floral notes, game, barbeque sauce, and red fruit. Crisp and tart on the palate. Among the best Washington Syrah found at this price point. 100% Syrah (90% Sundance, 10% Pheasant vineyards). Aged in French Burgundy barrels. 13.9% alcohol. 800 cases produced.

K Vintners Pheasant Syrah Wahluke Slope 2008 $35
Rating: + (Good) Ground cranberries, nuts, fresh berries, and lots of red fruit on the nose. Light and lithe with red fruit on the palate. 100% Syrah, Pheasant Vineyard. Aged in French oak (30% new). 15% alcohol. 193 cases produced.

K Vintners Clifton Syrah Wahluke Slope 2008 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Lots of bright, tart red fruit along with meaty streaks and sliced olive mark the nose. Big and opulent on the palate. Shows a fair amount of alcohol at times but pulls it off. 100% Syrah. Clifton Vineyard. Aged in French oak. 15% alcohol. 213 cases produced.

K Vintners Phil Lane Walla Walla Valley 2007 $70
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Abundant floral notes along with earth and very light streaks of game. Big and packed full of tightly wrapped fruit on the palate. Capped off by a seamless finish. 100% Syrah. Phil Lane Vineyard. Aged in French Burgundy barrels. 14.5% alcohol. 141 cases produced.

K Vintners Guido Walla Walla Valley 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Nose really pops on this wine with smoked meat, Red Vines, red fruit, and high toned berries. Palate shows penetrating but elegant red fruit flavors along with umami notes. 80% Sangiovese co-fermented with 20% Syrah. Lefore Vineyard. Aged in French oak (20% new). 15.5% alcohol. 175 cases produced.

K Vintners The Boy Walla Walla Valley 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Aromas jump from the glass including sliced black olives, seaweed, umami, and game. Intensely flavorful on the palate with red fruit and game. A spectacular effort. 90% Grenache, 10% Syrah. Armada Vineyard. Aged in French oak. 14.5% alcohol. 318 cases produced.

Washington Wine Round-up July 15th to 21st

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from July 15th to 21st. Please add any I missed during this time period to the comments section. See previous weeks here.

From around the world...

The Toronto Star recommends Hogue’s 2008 Genesis Merlot.

From around the country…

Wines & Vines writes about wineries opposing initiative 1100.

Wine Enthusiast writes about rock n’ rollers making wine, including Queensryche’s Geoff Tate at Three Rivers.

Fort Worth Business Press writes about the reemergence of Riesling with a callout to Pacific Rim.

WineBusiness.com writes about the Riesling Rendezvous.

From the blogosphere…(non-WBC)

The Gray Market Report writes about Charles Smith.

The Wine Economist writes about Riesling.

Drink Nectar gives its under $10 wine team. Read about the final tryouts here. Josh also gives some blind cabernet tasting results, including wines from L’Ecole and writes about Mountain Dome.

Writing for Cork’d, Josh Wade gives an update on two pieces of wine legislations.

Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about the Kirkland Uncorked festival. They also write about Woodinville’s Winemaker and Brew Master Triathalon.

Yak Yak Wine gives his daughter away with some Yakima Riesling.

One Rich Wine Guy writes about Dunham Cellars.

Under the Grape Tree writes about wines from Substance and Waters.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Tefft Cellars guest house. Shona also gives an update on Obelisco opening a tasting room in Woodinville.

Terroirists write about Purple Café and Wine Bar.

Wine Peeps writes about Washington wine blends. They also write about Domaine Ste. Michelle, the Riesling Rendezvous, Rhone Rangers, and the Buried Cane Syrah.

Paul Gregutt asks about e-books for the upcoming second edition of Washington Wines & Wineries.

WINO Magazine writes about Washington’s liquor laws.

The Oregon Wine Blog says to visit Yakima.

Red, White, and Food writes about a Washington wine country weekend.

Seattle Wine Blog writes about a tour of Walla Walla.

Good Food Revolution gives five reasons to travel to Washington wine country.

Ambassador of Wine writes about OS Winery’s 2008 Cabernet Franc.

Stark Silver Creek writes about L’Ecole No. 41.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Gordon Brothers.

I Drink Your Wine reemerges with a post on Mercer Estates.

Vint’d writes about Mercer Estates Sauvignon Blanc.

Full Pour writes about the 2002 Eroica Riesling.

The Wine Commentator writes about the Cadence 2004 Red Wine.

From the blogosphere…(WBC related)

Woodinville Wine Update writes about the journey home from WBC.

Write for Wine writes about some post-WBC events.

Beau’s Barrel Room writes about Washington Syrah.

Wine Press NW gives some thoughts on the Bloggers Conference.

Vinotology writes about Hard Row to Hoe. Ben also writes about the Hardy Wallace party.

Art Predator gives a WBC teaser video.

Vino Verve does a video post on Beresan.

WAWineman writes about Tefft Cellars 2005 Villarocca. He also writes about Hightower Cellars 2008 Murray Syrah, the Betz Family 2007 Clos de Betz, and Guardian Cellears 2009 Angel.

RJ’s Wine Blog interviews Gilles Nicault of Long Shadows.

Random Oenophile writes about Columbia Gorge wineries.

Northwest Cork and Fork writes part two on WBC.

Dances with Wines writes about the speed white wine tasting.

Toledo Wines & Vines writes about cork recycling.

New Jersey Monthly puts Walla Walla to the test.

The Vino File writes about Washington Semillon.

My Wine Education gives the conference in photos and writes about speed tasting reds.

BATblog writes about the conference.

Luscious Lushes writes about writing right for your blog.

The Unreserved writes about the speed tasting.

WineBizNews writes about the essentials of food pairing.

Reminder to see links to videos and conference presentations here.

From the locals…

The Seattle Times writes about a damaging species of fruit fly found in Washington orchards.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about Sauvignon Blanc.

Washington Tasting Room Magazine writes about the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center receiving a donation.

The Tri-City Herald gives a first peek at the 2009 vintage.

The Bellevue Scene writes about Kirkland Uncorked.

BellevueReporter.com writes about the Washington Wines Festival.

Waters winemaker Jamie Brown takes the road less traveled (WWSR 2010)

What follows is a section of my 2010 Walla Walla Spring Release Report. The report will be published in its entirety in .pdf form after the last entry is posted to the blog. See previous posts here.

Winemaker Jamie Brown of Waters Winery has taken a somewhat unforgiving path to success. A Walla Walla native, Brown became interested in winemaking as he watched the local wine industry grow and a number of friends enter the field. A musician and songwriter, the relationship between art and winemaking appealed to Brown’s artistic sensibilities.

After assisting at Glen Fiona, Dunham Cellars, and Pepper Bridge, Brown was encouraged by friends to start a winery of his own. He founded James Leigh Cellars (now JLC Winery) in 2001 and then Waters Winery in 2005. Having worked in the restaurant industry, Brown naturally gravitated toward wines that were more food friendly and European in style with lower alcohol and higher acid levels. While many winemakers have gone in the opposite direction, Brown decided to go against that trend. He says, “I wanted wines that were more out of the backbone of acid. If it meant less extraction and color so be it.”

From the beginning, a large part of Brown’s focus as a winemaker has been on single vineyard syrah. Syrah, which particularly in Washington is extremely expressive of site, appealed to Brown from an artistic point of view. Brown says, “Single vineyard syrah, to me, seemed to have the most potential for that type of expressive nature.” While somewhat of an unusual choice commercially, for Brown, it followed an inner vision. Brown credits his love of music for helping him make this choice. He says, “Music was a huge influence on me. I liked things that weren’t super commercially successful but I thought that they were right.”

As a winemaker, Brown set out to make syrah in the style he thought was right. Making single vineyard syrah is a difficult proposition to begin with. However, Brown has made it that much more so by eschewing the use of abundant new oak, which can often fill in some of a wine’s imperfections. Additionally, Brown has kept the alcohol levels in check, going against the trend of bigger, riper wines. Of bucking numerous winemaking trends Brown jokes, “When you get a chance to be an artist, sometimes you just have to be dumb enough to not know better.”

Waters produces three vineyard-designated syrahs. The first is from Loess (pronounced ‘Luss’) Vineyard, an estate vineyard for Leonetti Cellar. Situated near the Blue Mountains at an elevation of 1,100 feet, this vineyard receives eighteen inches of rainfall annually, considerably higher than many in the valley. The second vineyard-designated syrah comes from Forgotten Hills. This estate vineyard, planted in 1996, lies in the eastern section of the valley. The soils here are a mixture of basalt, silt, and sandy loam. The third syrah is from famed Pepper Bridge Vineyard, located near the Oregon border. The vines at Pepper Bridge are planted on silt loam, and the vineyard sits at an elevation of 900 feet.

Though these three vineyards are reasonably short distances from each other, they provide fascinating contrasts. In each of the wines the use of limited new oak puts the focus clearly on the vineyard. Site differences come to the fore, as do the variations in vintages that can often be minimized by blending from vineyards situated across large areas. In some years, these artistic decisions can be unforgiving. In others, when the vintage conditions are just right, they can be exultant.

The 2007 vintage releases are such an example - an exultant celebration of an exceptional vintage. Waters Forgotten Hills Syrah in particular stands as one of the best wines to emerge from this heralded vintage. This wine displays compelling aromatics of violets, light game, and intensely pure fruit. The palate is seamlessly put together, anchored by a backbone of acid. Given the exceptional vintage and Brown’s deft, artistic touch, the entire lineup is the best Waters has produced to date.

Though Brown has not walked the easiest path with his wines, the focus on single vineyard syrah has become the winery’s trademark. While some winemakers – like many artists – can be defensive of their creations, Brown is more pragmatic. He says, “Its okay if there are people out there who don’t like it. We’ll find the ones that dig this.” Following his inner vision has paid off for Brown, leading to a devoted following. Brown says of single vineyard syrah, “It’s helped make my career even though it’s not the way that an investor might draw it up.”

Waters Winery produces 5,000 cases annually.

Waters Winery Rose Walla Walla Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) Pale salmon colored. Lots of floral aromas along with melon and citrus. Bright and acidic on the palate with cherry and watermelon flavors. 67% Syrah, 33% Viognier. 12.5% alcohol. 185 cases produced.

Waters Winery Syrah Columbia Valley 2007 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) A fascinating, appealing nose with funky aromatics of earth, nuts, and savory notes. Lots of puckering red fruit flavors on an enjoyable palate marked by a cranberry laden finish. 100% Syrah. Minick Vineyard. Aged in neutral French oak. 1,054 cases produced.

Waters Winery Syrah Loess Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) A pretty nose with pepper, herbal tones, and savory spices accented by floral notes. Beautifully textured on the palate with red fruit, savory flavors, and a touch of smoked meat. 97% Syrah co-fermented with 3% Viognier. Aged in neutral French oak. 190 cases produced.

Waters Winery Syrah Forgotten Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional) On the nose, an exclamation point of aromatics. Spice, light game, and floral notes. On the palate, a beautifully textured and nuanced wine full of game and fruit flavors. An accomplishment of a wine. 100% Syrah. Forgotten Hills Vineyard. Aged in French oak (approximately 10% new). 514 cases produced.

Waters Winery Syrah Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Spicy, herbal, touches of chocolate, savory notes, and tart red fruit on an attractive nose. Tart and clean with abundant red fruit on the palate. Finish lingers on and on. 100% Syrah. Pepper Bridge Vineyard. Aged in French oak (approximately 10% new). 298 cases produced.

Waters Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2006 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) A very pretty nose with currant, herbal streaks, and anise. Tart and puckering with lots of cranberry flavors on the palate. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cold Creek and Pepper Bridge vineyards. 346 cases produced.

21 Grams Columbia Valley 2007 $125
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Nose is locked up pretty tightly at the moment but shows light herbal notes, licorice, freshly ground cranberries, pencil shavings, and very light earth aromas. Pretty fruit flavors shine through on an elegantly structured palate. Give two years. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 2% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. Cold Creek, Pepper Bridge, Portteus, Seven Hills, Nostra Terra, and Sagemoor vineyards. 100 cases produced.

July Virtual Tasting - Hogue Cellars Genesis Syrah 2007

Rasa Vineyards listens to the 'voice of the people' (WWSR 2010)

What follows is a section of my 2010 Walla Walla Spring Release Report. The report will be published in its entirety in .pdf form after the last entry is posted to the blog. See previous posts here.

Of the numerous new wineries that opened in 2009, few made as significant an impression on me as Rasa Vineyards. Named after a word in Sanskrit that translates roughly to terroir, Rasa Vineyards was started by brothers Billo and Pinto Naravane. The winery’s inaugural releases were two wines - the 2007 QED, principally Syrah, and the 2007 Principia, a reserve Syrah. Both of these wines stand among the finest being produced in the state and exemplify why there is so much excitement about Washington Syrah (see a review of these wines here).

For Spring Release Weekend, Rasa offered two new releases every bit as impressive. The Composer Riesling, the first white wine from Rasa Vineyards, is nothing short of spectacular. Fruit for this wine comes from two properties of Sagemoor Vineyards. Half of the fruit comes from Dionysus Vineyard. The Dionysus Riesling vines were planted in 1974 and are believed to be the Geisenheim 110 clone. The other half of the fruit comes from Bacchus Vineyard, which sits next to Dionysus. In contrast to Dionysus, the vines from Bacchus are young and are a combination of two different clones, Geisenheim 198 and Neustadt 90. The combination of these two vineyards, located near Pasco, and three clones provide a depth, complexity, and balance that put this Riesling among the best being made in Washington State. The wine, I should add, is priced accordingly.

The winery’s second new release is a varietally labeled Mourvedre. Mourvedre, which is uncommon in Washington as a stand-alone wine, has previously been blended in small proportions to Rasa’s QED wine. However, last December during Holiday Barrel Tasting, the Naravanes poured samples of this wine to visitors and were implored to make a single varietal wine. The Naravanes responded to the voice of the people by creating Vox Populi, a one hundred percent Mourvedre. The results are, again, exceptional.

For its first three vintages, Rasa has been making wines at Artifex, a custom crush facility in Walla Walla. Later this year, the winery will be moving south of town to the building formerly occupied by Hence Cellars. Rasa is scheduled to move in to the facility September 1^st, just in time for crush.

Related Posts

Rasa Vineyards (WWFR 2009)

Rasa Vineyards The Composer Riesling Sagemoor Vineyards Columbia Valley 2009 $30
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Just a tinge of color. Mineral, pear, freshly sliced apples, and peaches mark an expressive nose. Palate is exceptionally well balanced with just a touch of sweetness. A beautifully put together wine that lingers and lingers on the finish. 100% Riesling. Dionysus and Bacchus vineyards. 1.6% residual sugar. 12.4% alcohol. 228 cases produced. Sampled at 56 degrees.

Rasa Vineyards Vox Populi Mourvedre Yakima Valley 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An enchanting nose with white pepper, game, violets, and a wild, almost animalistic quality. On the taste, an impressive texture and structure with a nice acidic uplift in the middle and a long finish. Give six months. 100% Mourvedre. Minick Vineyard, Yakima Valley. 14.5% alcohol. 72 cases produced.

Northstar Winery looks for the Big Dipper

Among the many changes in wine over the last ten years has been a general increase in alcohol and a decrease in acid levels. These changes have resulted from evolutions in viticulture, enology, and consumer tastes. Consumers everywhere have favored a more ‘drink-me-now’ wine as opposed to something that needs years of cellaring to become approachable. Wineries have responded in kind.

Northstar Winery winemaker David ‘Merf’ Merfeld has watched these changes take place. Merfeld, a native of Iowa, moved to Washington in 1990 to pursue a career in brewing. While originally interested in beer he says, “When I got the offer to make Merlots at Northstar, no one had to ask me twice.” Merfeld joined the Northstar team in 2001 and became head winemaker in 2005.

Merfeld understands the changes that have taken place in consumer tastes. “I’m a consumer as well,” Merfeld says. “I’m a 'ready-to-drink' guy. It’s tough when you look at Bordeaux and some of these other places and it’s like, ‘Don’t drink for ten years.’ Well I don’t want to wait ten or fifteen years,” he says. While Merfeld understands what has led to the recent changes in wine styles he says, “We are all evolving our palates, but it is always a little bit sad what we leave behind.”

Every now and then one gets a glimpse of exactly what was left behind. A few years back Merfeld was attending a blind tasting with some local winemakers. He decided to bring a 1983 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Cabernet Sauvignon. Despite the wine’s age, it was holding up remarkably well. Merfeld says, “We were all just surprised that it was doing so well. Then you read the back label and it says when it was picked and has the acid level and alcohol level on it. It just got me thinking.”

What the wine got Merfeld thinking was about trying to make a similarly styled wine at Northstar now - a Washington Merlot designed specifically for the long haul. Merfeld says, “I just had this vision of making something more, I don’t necessarily want to say more Bordeaux-like, but you cellar this wine and it’s going to be something that I can have when I retire. It’s going to go thirty years and have lots of extraction and plenty of fruit with it as well. But it’s going to have the lower alcohol, higher acid level that will help it to age and hold its color.”

Merfeld set out to make such a wine starting with the 2009 vintage. In tribute to the Northstar name, the project was codenamed Big Dipper. To create the wine, Merfeld has focused on varying his approach to winemaking. Northstar already receives exceptional merlot grapes from Ste. Michelle Wine Estates’ extensive vineyards - “the best of the best” Merfeld says. The project has therefore focused more on slight changes in the vineyard and more significant changes at the winery.

At the vineyard, the fruit is picked earlier during harvest so that it is lower in alcohol and higher in acid. In the winery, Merfeld has been experimenting with alterations in fermentation techniques. This has included experimenting with barrel fermentation and different types of yeast, “Things outside the box to add other layers,” Merfeld says. Merfeld has also worked with a concrete fermenter, which he describes as “kind of like a little hot tub.” He describes the results of the latter as “a very fruit forward wine,” due to the steady, cool fermentation.

In terms of the Big Dipper wine, Merfeld hopes to make it as high a percentage of Merlot as possible, saying, “My vision is that I want the wine to be one hundred percent Merlot.” Talking about what makes Washington Merlot special, Merfeld says, “Our merlot is on steroids. It’s big, lots of structure and tannins and is often confused with Cab.” While Merfeld hopes that the Big Dipper wine will have as high a percentage of Merlot as possible, he is also looking to make the best possible wine, so specific blends will vary based on vintage.

The Big Dipper project is still in the very early stages. Merfeld says, “We’re not positive on the direction yet but we’ve got some things to play with.” Merfeld sampled the 2009 wines recently with Ste. Michelle Wine Estates’ CEO Ted Baseler and others but says, “We’re not getting ready to blend any time soon.”

The Big Dipper wine – which will have a different name on release - will ultimately spend twenty-four months in the barrel and then another year in the bottle before release, so don’t expect to see the wine any time soon. “There’s no rush to get it out,” Merfeld says, adding, “I’m very fortunate.” The wine will be extremely limited in production, most likely somewhere between one hundred and three hundred cases. Given the low availability, determining how to sell the wine is sure to present problems. “I’ve already had people offer to take it all,” he says.

While Merfeld envisions the Big Dipper wine as something to drink when he retires, don’t look for him to go anywhere soon. Only in his fifth year as Northstar's head winemaker, he looks to continuing having an impact on Washington wine for many years to come.

Read Northstar Winery's Big Dipper Chronicles here.

Related Posts

Northstar Winery: The Tale of Two Merlots

Quilceda Creek announces fall releases

Quilceda Creek has announced their fall releases. This includes three wines from the 2007 vintage – a Galitzine Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, a Palengat Vineyard Proprietary Red Wine, and a Columbia Valley Red Wine.

Quilceda Creek made its first Galitzine Vineyard-designated Cabernet in 2004. The vineyard is located on Red Mountain and is managed in partnership with Jim Holmes, owner of nearby Ciel du Cheval Vineyard. The 2007 Galitzine Cabernet Sauvignon will be 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Petit Verdot.

The first release from Palengat Vineyard, the 2006 vintage, was last fall. This vineyard is located in the Horse Heaven Hills near famed Champoux Vineyard. In a shift, for the 2007 vintage the Palengat Vineyard wine will be designated ‘Palengat Proprietary Red Wine’ instead of a Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery decided to do so to make “the best wine we can from this site,” blending 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot (seventy-five percent is required for varietal designation).

The third wine, the Columbia Valley Red Wine, is made each year from declassified barrels. The 2007 vintage wine is 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc. While Quilceda Creek’s Red Wine consistently provides outrageous value, the 2007 vintage of this wine is a standout. I struggle to think of a Bordeaux-style blend from Washington or elsewhere that can compete with this wine at a $35 price point (see a review of the wine here).

As with last year, Quilceda Creek has maintained the prices for each of these wines for the 2007 vintage: $98 for the Galitzine Cabernet Sauvignon; $83 for the Palengat Proprietary Red Wine; and $35 for the Columbia Valley Red Wine. The wines will be offered to the winery’s mailing list members starting in August with the wines shipped in the fall.

Related Posts

Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 (or how to spice up a Quilceda Creek release event)

Focus - Quilceda Creek 2006 Cabernets

Washington Wine Report 's 2009 Wines of the Year

More

Washington Wine Round-up July 8th to 14th

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from July 8^th to 14^th. Feel free to add any posts I missed to the comments section.

Buckle your seatbelts ladies and gentlemen. This round-up is a long one.

From around the country…

The Wall Street Journal writes about stalking Washington wine.

The San Francisco Chronicle recommends Washington Cabernet.

The Mercury recommends Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Gwurztraminer.

Thomas Matthews at Wine Spectator does his patriotic duty and opens up a bottle of Col Solare for the 4^th.

WineBusiness.com writes about the third Riesling Rendezvous.

From the blogosphere (WBC10)…

Reign of Terroir talks with Billo Naravane of Rasa Vineyards. He also talks with Ryan Crane of Kerloo Cellars.

Drink Nectar writes some thoughts on the conference.

WINEormous writes about the trip to Walla Walla.

Luscious Lushes writes about the pre-WBC Oregon tour with a stop at Solena.

Suburban Wino writes about Walla Walla’s greatest export. He also does of video post of touring Oregon and Washington wine country.

Random Oenophile gives some random thoughts and tasting notes from the conference.

Wine Tonite! interviews Jay Soloff of DeLille Cellars.

Brix Chicks gives confessions of a California wine snark with a pre-trip to Oregon wine country.

Caveman Wines says WBC is the place to be.

RJ’s Wine Blog interviews Trey Busch of Sleight of Hand.

Dallas Wine Chick gives a diary recap.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about speed wine tasting.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine gives bits and pieces from the conference. Catie also writes about the food and wine pairing with Jeffry Saad and asks whether the live blogging section is good for wineries.

Yak Yak Wine gives the world according to Dick Boushey. Chris also writes about vineyard row orientation and Hightower Cellars.

The Oregon Wine Blog writes about the post-conference trip to Red Mountain.

WBC writes about videos, photos, and presentations.

Vinifico muses about the conference.

Wine Tube TV does a video post on Long Shadows.

Vinotology writes about Lone Canary.

Wineheimer writes about a visit to Red Mountain.

Garagistes-in-Training writes about the conference.

Toledo Wines & Vines writes about the Hogue Cellars 2005 Fries Vineyard Syrah.

The Wine Whore writes about the conference.

Another Wine Blog says wine conferences give no time for writing about wine.

Weekly Wine Pick writes about the speed tasting.

Cellar Mistress’ Cellar Talk writes about part II of the Woodinville trip.

From the blogosphere (non-WBC10)…

Paul Gregutt writes about the second edition of Washington Wines & Wineries: The Essential Guide. He also writes about the Reininger Carmenère.

The Wine Economist writes about the Washington brand.

One Rich Wine Guy visits Cougar Crest.

Cork’d writes about Naked Winery.

The Drinks Business writes about the Riesling Rendezvous.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about a trip to Whidbey Island Winery. Shona also writes about Kestrel Vintners opening a tasting room in Woodinville and Alexandria Nicole closing their warehouse location due to opening the schoolhouse tasting room.

Wine Peeps writes about a Saviah Cellars vertical. They also write about a Phelps Creek Celilo Chardonnay, and Red Willow Vineyard.

Wine & Beer of Washington State writes about Gorman Winery. They also write about a new wine storage facility in Bellevue.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Cougar Crest. Catie also writes about the new Highway 12 in Walla Walla.

Beyond the Bottle gives some views of the Walla Walla Valley.

Write for Wine writes about Desert Wind Winery.

Wine Cooler Blog writes about Washington wine.

AZ Central writes about 8-Bit Vintners powering down.

Wannabe Wino writes about Maryhill Winery.

Sunrise Packaging writes about the art of packaging, with a callout to Revelry.

Jennifer’s Review writes about the Hogue Cellars Merlot.

Sip & The City writes about a Lake Chelan wine weekend.

Vineyardgurl’s blog writes about White Heron Cellars.

Michigan By the Bottle writes about a trip to Woodinville during the Reisling Rendezvous.

WA Wine Man writes about Stina Cellars.

Lettie Teague writes about three impressive Washington whites.

The Wine Commentator writes about the Lullaby 2008 Viognier.

The Spokane Examiner writes about wine tasting in Prosser.

Wine Foot writes about Long Shadows.

The Gray Market Report writes about the Riesling Rendezvous.

The Bellevue Scene writes about the Washington Wine Festival.

From the locals…

Washington State Department of Agriculture writes about a trapping program for the European grapevine moth.

Writing for the Bellingham Herald, Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman write about Riesling.

Wenatchee World writes about agricultural tourism.

Wine Press NW writes about it finally getting hot this summer.

The Seattle Times writes about glamping.

Leftovers…

WA Wine Man writes about the 2005 Col Solare Red Wine.

That's all folks!

Fielding Hills Winery: How Mike Wade went from drinking house Burgundy to making some of Washington's best wines

Mike Wade of Fielding Hills Winery recalls a formative wine experience at Chieftain Restaurant in Wenatchee, Washington. An avid beer drinker at the time, Wade decided one night to try a glass of “house Burgundy” along with his prime rib. As fate would have it, there were no French inspectors in town otherwise this story might never have been written. Instead, Wade became hooked on wine.

After traveling to Napa Valley in the mid-nineties followed by trips to the Yakima and Walla Walla valleys in 1997 and 1998, Wade became increasingly interested in growing grapes and making wine. As part owner of Columbia Fruit Packers, an apple and cherry packing business, he saw similarities between growing apples, cherries, and grapes. As he looked more into growing grapes and making wine he kept asking himself the same question - “Could I do this?” After seeing a seeing a small-scale wine operation in Walla Walla, he decided that the answer was yes.

To get started, Wade spent time in 1997 and 1998 making wine in carboys like many a budding winemaker does. He says, “I did learn from that experience, although the results were not drinkable.” He was, however, not dissuaded.

In the spring of 1998 Wade planted a twenty-four acre vineyard in Mattawa, Washington. The site was not far from Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Indian Wells Vineyard, so Wade had reason to believe grapes would grow well there. He also planted grapes near his home in East Wenatchee. He quickly abandoned this project however when the results did not meet the quality he was looking for. The site in Mattawa, however, would succeed beyond all expectations.

In 1999 Wade’s learning curve greatly accelerated when he met Gordy Venneri of Walla Walla Vintners and Charlie Hoppes, then winemaker at Three Rivers Winery. Wade peppered each with questions about winemaking. He started writing his own step-by-step guide to document the process. Wade says he spent, “many nights at the winery writing, reading and analyzing what was happening in front of my very eyes and then calling Charlie or Gordon and asking questions.” By 2000, he was ready.

The first crop at Wade’s Riverbend Vineyard, named after the bend in the Columbia River near Priest Rapids Dam, was in 2000. Fielding Hills Winery was bonded that same year. In naming the winery, Wade says, “My grandfather's name was Isham Fielding Wade, and as you look at the hills surrounding the winery, the name seemed to fit.” The winery is located in East Wenatchee in a converted orchard shop. Wade describes the building as “Not pretty but very functional.” Wade made four hundred cases of wine in 2000. The winery has since grown to about 1,400 cases annually.

The Fielding Hills wines have met with critical success since the beginning. While the winery has no tasting room and self-distributes its wines, the wine club is full, and the wines sell out briskly. It is no wonder. Each of the Fielding Hills wines is marked by rich, layered fruit accented by sweet spices. They stand among the best being produced in Washington. In terms of style, Wade favors a minimalist approach saying his goal is to “set everything up from root stock to oak to be the best and then let the magic unfold.”

In addition to running the winery, Wade and his wife Karen keep more than busy raising a family and working in the apple and cherry business. At this writing, the Wades were in the middle of a fifty-five day cherry harvest. While some might find an almost continual harvest cycle daunting, for the Wades, it is simply a part of life. Describing her role in the winery Karen Wade says, “As in most small businesses, I am everything that needs to be done.” Of her husband, she says, “He has a deep love for the soil of Eastern Washington. He sees apples and cherries growing, picked, packaged and shipped. He is very excited to see his grapes actually in a glass being consumed.” With Fielding Hills now entering its tenth year, there is much to be excited about.

Fielding Hills Merlot Riverbend Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2007 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic nose with herbal notes, mint, cranberries, and high-toned cherries accented by sweet oak spices. On the palate, a big dollop of red fruit along with herbal notes. A luscious, fruit-filled wine. 93% Merlot, 5% Syrah, and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Riverbend Vineyard, Wahluke Slope. Aged 19 months in a combination of American and French oak barrels (72% new). 15.1% alcohol. 172 cases produced.

Fielding Hills Cabernet Franc Riverbend Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2007 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) A lightly aromatic nose with pepper, cherry, chocolate, and sweet oak spices. The palate is plush with cherry fruit along with soft tannins and pleasing acidity. A beautifully balanced wine. 88% Cabernet Franc, 6% Syrah, 4% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Riverbend Vineyard, Wahluke Slope. Aged 19 months in a combination of American and French oak barrels (72% new). 15.5% alcohol. 134 cases produced.

Fielding Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Riverbend Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2007 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Nose is marked by bright cherry aromas, mint, licorice, and chocolate accented by sweet oak spices. Packed tight with beautifully rich fruit on the palate. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Syrah, 3% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Riverbend Vineyard, Wahluke Slope. Aged 19 months in a combination of American and French oak barrels (72% new). 15.6% alcohol. 189 cases produced.

Fielding Hills Tribute Riverbend Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2007 $32
Rating: + (Good) Fairly light in color. A lively nose with lots of red and black fruit, licorice, mocha, wheat, and spice. Dry and tart on the palate with heaping amounts of fruit. 43% Syrah, 30 Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 9% Cabernet Franc. Riverbend Vineyard, Wahluke Slope. Aged 19 months in a combination of American and French oak barrels (72% new). 15.3% alcohol. 197 cases produced.

Fielding Hills Syrah Riverbend Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2007 $40
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of coconut shavings come to the fore on the nose along with abundant red fruit. Palate is filled with juicy red fruit flavors accented by silky oak. Alcohol gets a little intense at times. 92% Syrah, 4% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Riverbend Vineyard, Wahluke Slope. Aged 19 months in a combination of American and French oak barrels (72% new). 15.3% alcohol. 184 cases produced.

Samples provided by winery.
Pictures courtesy of Fielding Hills Winery.

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