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itä wines winemaker Kelsey Itämeri sticks to her guns

In recent years, a number of producers in Washington have explored a different style for the state, one that involves picking significantly earlier than the norm and focusing more intently on acidity. One example is a new winery in Walla Walla Valley called itä wines.

“My palate tends more toward a lighter, more acid driven style of wine,” explains owner and winemaker Kelsey Albro Itämeri. This style is driven by both when she picks fruit and how she decides to do so.

“When I make picking decisions, I'm looking honestly for a balance between finished alcohol and acidity,” Itämeri says. “I haven't become too wrapped up in tasting for phenolics. Perhaps people think that I'm a wild child.”

Founded in 2019, itä is located in one of the winery incubator buildings in the airport region of Walla Walla, opening its doors is 2020. The winery name has multiple meanings. It’s a shortened version of Itämeri’s name, translates to “east” in Finnish, and is a reference to a diminutive modifier in Spanish.

In addition to picking decisions, itä’s wine style is also driven by its fruit sources, which currently come from two sites, Les Collines Vineyard and Breezy Slope. Both are nestled in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, near where Itämeri’s parents own property. Itämeri currently has test plantings on that property, with the goal of eventually having the wines be from estate fruit.

“I just really wanted to explore the terroir, the conditions, and the varieties that can really thrive in this little, tiny section of the Walla Walla Valley,” Itämeri says. She believes Les Collines is well-suited to her style.

“You don't have to be scared to pick so early because you're going to have a really beautiful expression of phenolics, even on the early side,” Itämeri says. In addition to the itä wines being markedly lower in alcohol and having brighter acidity than most currently coming out of Washington, they also see next to no new oak.

“I can't afford new oak!” Itämeri says laughing. “I don't like the way it tastes. Why would I make that wine?”

Thus far the itä offerings have included two different styles of Semillon, a Syrah, a Merlot, a promising Pinot Noir, and a rosé of Primitivo. The Merlot in particular is a revelation, distinct from anything I have seen come out of Washington to date.

“When I'm thinking about what I want the finished wine to be, I think about when are people going to drink it and where are they going to be and how will it make them feel?” Itämeri says. “When I think about the [Merlot] that I want to make, I think about coming home after a bad day, and this is the one you want – the wine that’s going to love you back.”

Though Washington remains largely dominated by fuller bodied red wines, Itämeri and others have shown lighter bodied styles can be made in Washington and made at high quality. They’ve also shown there is more than enough room for stylistic variation in the state.

“You kind of have to just stick to your guns a little bit and be like, ‘This is how I want to win’ and play the game appropriately,” Itämeri says.

Wine Enthusiast reviews below  

itä 2019 Les Collines Vineyard Merlot Walla Walla Valley $45 93 points
This vineyard in the foothills of the Blue Mountains has largely established its reputation on Syrah, but this wine is an announcement that, in the right hands, it can make stellar Merlot in a distinctive style. The aromas pop, with notes of dark raspberry, plum and generous amounts of fresh herbs. There’s a freshness and vitality to the flavors that completely captivate, with vibrant acidity behind it all. It has extended hang time on the finish. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. It’s a swoonworthy statement wine for this producer and vineyard. Editor’s Choice

itä 2019 Les Collines Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
Les Collines is situated in the foothills of the Blue Mountains and has proven itself to be a special spot for Syrah. Here, this young producer gives a compelling interpretation of this site. The aromas offer achingly pure notes of boysenberry, violet and herbs. The palate shows a lovely sense of elegance and freshness to the bountiful fruit flavors that are light on their feet. A long, lingering finish caps it off. For those looking for pure, unadorned, restrained expression of Les Collines, look no further. This wine flat out delivers. Editor’s Choice

itä 2019 1 of 2 Les Collines Vineyard Sémillon Walla Walla Valley $25 90 points
Fermented and aged in stainless steel, aromas of fig, talc and lemon are followed by focused, sleek flavors and tart, lemony acidity. It’s a wonderfully acid driven offering of this variety. Editor’s Choice

itä 2019 2 of 2 Les Collines Vineyard Sémillon Walla Walla Valley $25 90 points
Fermented and aged in neutral oak, the aromas are light initially, with notes of wet rock, fig and spice. The palate brings a sense of creamy texture yet remains sleek, with lemony acidity stitching it together. It’s as much about feel as flavor, with acid in the driver’s seat. Editor’s Choice

itä 2019 Breezy Slope Vineyard Pinot Noir Walla Walla Valley $45 88 points
Pinot Noir is a relative rarity in the Columbia Valley, with most of what’s planted used for sparkling wines; Pinots from Walla Walla are that much more unusual. It’s light in color and cloudy, offering aromas bursting with notes of strawberry, forest floor, rhubarb and whole tangerine, with the variety immediately identifiable. The palate is light and juicy. It doesn’t entirely stand up on its own but will do well at the dinner table. Pair it with salmon salad with fresh berries and a basil vinaigrette.

Image by Richard Duval. 

Six myths about Washington wine

Washington is the nation’s second-largest wine-producing state, with more than 1,000 wineries and 60,000 acres of grape vines. Despite its standing and influence, many misconceptions persist. Here are the top six. 

Myth #1: You’ve got the wrong Washington 

When we talk about “Washington wine,” we’re talking about Washington State, not Washington, D.C. While some might assume this to be broadly understood, most every producer in the state would confirm how common this misunderstanding is, particularly as one gets further away from the West Coast. 

Master of Wine Bob Betz has spent decades promoting Washington wines and viticultural regions. He tells the story of giving a presentation on the state’s wines years back, where upon finishing someone in attendance asked, “Which side of the Potomac are the vineyards on?” This misunderstanding still exists today. 

Read the full article at Wine Enthusiast.

Image by Richard Duval

Elizabeth Bourcier appointed resident vigneronne at Bionic Wines

On Friday Christophe Baron, founder and vigneron at Bionic Wines, announced the promotion of Elizabeth Bourcier from assistant vigneron to resident vigneron for all of the estate’s Walla Walla Valley brands. Bourcier will now have primary responsibility for crafting some the world’s most sought after and highly acclaimed wines, including those from Cayuse VineyardsHorsepower VineyardsHors Catégorie Vineyards, and No Girls.

“Elizabeth is an incredible talent and since our 2017 vintage, Elizabeth has been in charge of creating Bionic Wines’ full production,” Baron said in an email to his customers. “To recognize her accomplishment, I’m thrilled to formally announce Elizabeth as Resident Vigneronne of Bionic Wines.”

Baron will remain involved in Bionic Wines but will now give more time to Champagne Christophe Baron. This is a Pinot Meunier-dedicated project that Baron began in the 2014 vintage, using grapes from his family’s vineyards in France’s Marne Valley.

The announcement also referenced Baron’s involvement in “other exciting upcoming projects.” This will come as no surprise to anyone who has met the Frenchman once dubbed the Bionic Frog due to his always-active motor.

In 1997, Baron pioneered planting in the region of Walla Walla Valley now known as the Rocks District. Since then, he has continuously expanded plantings and also pushed viticultural and qualitative boundaries in the valley, focusing on biodynamic farming and crafting wines that express the terroir of each vineyard.

Bourcier is a Kirkland, Washington native who moved to Walla Walla Valley in 2001 at age 18 to study at the Institute for Enology and Viticulture at Walla Walla Community College. She was in the Institute’s first graduating class. (Full disclosure: I am an adjunct instructor at Walla Walla Community College.) Bourcier subsequently completed a bachelor’s degree in viticulture at California Polytechnic State University in San Luis Obispo.

After working in the tasting room at Bonny Doon Vineyard in California, Bourcier spent time at Finca Koch in the Mendoza region of Argentina before returning to Walla Walla. She began working as a laboratory technician at Cayuse Vineyards in 2008. In 2010, Baron promoted her to assistant vigneronne.

At that time, Bourcier also took primary responsibility as vigneronne for Bionic Wines’ No Girls brand, which she had co-produced since its first vintage in 2008. The name comes from a sign painted on the wall of a bordello in Walla Walla when it closed in the mid-20th century, an indication of changing times for women in the valley. Over the last decade, the No Girls wines have consistently earned top scores. In 2012, Bourcier also founded her own brand, La Rata, crafting a Priorat-inspired blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. The wine quickly established a well-deserved cult following.

In the 13 years since she joined the winery, Bourcier has brought to Bionic Wines an incisive palate and also an unerring commitment to low-intervention winegrowing and making that matches Baron’s. While Baron’s accomplishments are nearly unrivalled since he founded Cayuse in 1997 – Bionic Wines has over 85 wines rated 95 points or above at Wine Enthusiast magazine where I serve as a contributing editor – the wines have only continued to become more refined as Bourcier has taken an increasingly prominent role.

Now Bourcier will have primary responsibility for Bionic Wines’ entire Walla Walla Valley portfolio. This includes wines from its vineyards in the Rocks District – which Baron and Bourcier refer to as ‘the stones’ – as well its vineyard by the north fork of the Walla Walla Valley River, used for the Hors Catégorie Syrah.

“Christophe has trusted my gut and palate with every vintage. The stones [in Walla Walla Valley] are unlike anything else in the world, and my goal has always been to let that carry through into the wine,” Bourcier said in the customer email.

In addition to a significant change for Walla Walla Valley, Bourcier’s appointment also seems to mark a turning point for the Washington wine industry more generally. (NB: Bionic Wines is located on the Oregon side of Walla Walla Valley.) While women remain underrepresented as winemakers and vigneronnes in the Columbia Valley, they now occupy two of the most prominent and influential positions in the appellation. Last year, Katie Nelson was named winemaker at Chateau Ste Michelle, Washington’s largest winery and most recognizable brand. Now Bourcier will oversee one of the Northwest’s most highly regarded estates.

“Women have come a long way, although I think you still have to work harder as a female to prove yourself – in the winemaking world you have to put yourself out there and be more quietly confident because the only way to the top is through hard work,” Bourcier said in the email. “My vision is to never let that quality diminish. It’s an exciting time for women in wine, especially in the Walla Walla Valley.”

Picture courtesy of Bionic Wines. © Andréa Johnson Photography.

Woodinville gets a new tasting hub

Already home to over 130 wineries and tasting rooms, Woodinville is about to get a new destination. Four wineries announced they will be opening tasting rooms in 2022 in a newly constructed building by the old Red Hook Brewery. These wineries are Mark RyanLong ShadowsFidélitas, and Latta.

“We've done really good things in existing buildings with a kind of down and dirty, garage feel,” says Mark Ryan founder Mark McNeilly. “I don't think it's going to feel much different than that, but we're going to try to elevate the kind of ‘Mark Ryan 2.0’ experience.”

McNeilly says this will involve focusing more on education as well as the winery’s history. Mark Ryan’s current space in Woodinville’s nearby Hollywood District will subsequently become a tasting room for its Board Track Racer wines.

“We have a strong commitment to that Hollywood Schoolhouse area, so we're going to keep our existing space,” McNeilly says. “But we just needed more physical space for the Mark Ryan label, and we needed more parking.”

Indeed, as the Hollywood District has flourished since its redevelopment over a decade ago, parking at many of the tasting rooms has become increasingly hard to come by. Long Shadows also currently has a tasting room in this area, which it will give up when it moves. Dane Narbaitz, president and partner at Long Shadows, agrees the new facility’s abundant parking was part of the appeal.

“We've got club members that show up and want to pick up wines, but of course they want to come in and taste the new releases as well,” Narbaitz says. “They’ll call and say ‘I can't find parking within half a mile of here. Can you just bring my wines out and put them in my trunk?’ That’s really sad to miss out on those opportunities.”

The new building was originally designed for Teatro Zinzanni, a long-running dinner circus theater. However, when Teatro abandoned plans to occupy the space last year due to the pandemic, the facility owners decided to turn it into tasting rooms. The building will use the original structural plans, but the space will now be divided between four wineries.

“The structure itself is really cool,” says Narbaitz. “It’s kind of got a modern industrial feel to it. Very upscale, but it's got steel beams and exposed concrete and wood finishes.”

Each winery is designing its own space, which will include outdoor patios and upstairs decks. The Long Shadows tasting room will also have private rooms as well as club rooms that can be combined for larger groups.

“We’ll have the ability to offer something a little more special, a little more memorable,” Narbaitz says. In addition to bountiful parking, for wineries already in the Hollywood Schoolhouse area, the new site will offer considerably more space.

“We’d kind of outgrown our [current] space a few years ago honestly,” says Fidélitas managing director Will Hoppes. He says the winery’s new tasting room will have at least five times more seating than its existing Hollywood space, making for a more relaxed visitor experience.

“People will be able to sit down and get a little more comfortable instead of a ‘churn and burn’ scene,” Hoppes says. The winery also anticipates doing club events at the location.

In addition to more parking and space, the exceptionally high quality of the other producers in the area only adds to the appeal, for the wineries and consumers alike. DeLille Cellars opened a stunning facility in this area in late 2019. Sparkman Cellars followed suit in 2020. It will be a formidable half dozen tasting rooms.

“It’s a great mix,” Hoppes says. “We’re all similar in a way but also different, so that's going to bring in a lot of people.” These are also very well-established Washington brands, with Latta – founded in 2011 – the most junior member.

“We're just getting on people's radar, so this is a tremendous opportunity for us,” says owner and winemaker Andrew Latta. Latta will keep its current production facility and tasting room in Seattle’s SoDo Urbanworks.

“Our current space is very utilitarian and was designed as such to be multi-purpose,” Latta says. “[Woodinville] is going to be a dedicated tasting space, so we can do things that are a little more refined.”

Construction on the new building is already underway, with completion slated for summer 2022. However, in addition to possible construction and permitting delays, supply chain issues might also have their say.

“We still have to order furniture, so that's going to take a good eight months to get here,” McNeilly says wryly.

In addition to the four new tasting rooms, DeLille, and Sparkman, the area also offers top notch food. The Lounge at DeLille Cellars is on-site, and Barking Frog restaurant is within a (very) short walk, with Willows Lodge providing a place to stay. Altogether, it guarantees an experience few in the area can match.

“We’re hoping to keep people once they come visit,” says Hoppes. “There’ll be no reason to leave.”

Illustration courtesy of Long Shadows.