While bud break is beginning in some parts of the Columbia Valley, snow continues to fall in the mountain passes – a not-so-subtle reminder that winter is not completely done with Washington wine country.
Contributing photographer Richard Duval recently revisited a favorite spot, Rocky Pond Estate Winery's Double D Vineyard, to capture one last scene of snow on the vines. Double D lies in the proposed Rocky Reach appellation, south of Chelan. Contrast this image to July 2020’s Pic of the Vine, and you’ll see that vineyard maintenance is a year-round activity.
Pic of the Vine March 2021
Washington’s 2020 growing season one to remember
In a year full of challenges, winemakers are happy with the results
Indeed, at 178,500 tons, 2020 was Washington’s smallest crop since 2012. It was an 11% reduction from 2019 and a full third lower than the state’s highwater mark of 270,000 tons in 2016. While grapes were in shorter supply, winemakers loved what they got.
“Overall, the vintage is spectacular,” says Chris Figgins, president of Figgins Family Wine Estates in Walla Walla Valley. “I’m kind of in love with the vintage right now.”
The stage for the 2020 growing season was partially set in October of 2019. That month, a frost in Columbia Valley was followed by a freeze on October 30th , with the latter appearing to have caused some vine damage.
“We didn't think too much of it at the time, but I think it made a difference,” says Mike Sauer, who manages Red Willow Vineyard in Yakima Valley.
Unlike 2019 which had an unusually heavy snowpack, winter precipitation was well below average in 2020.
“Everything was dry,” says Dick Boushey, who manages vineyards in Yakima Valley and Red Mountain. “This whole year I watered more than ever.”
For Dan Nickolaus, who manages Champoux, Mach One, Palengat, and Wallula Gap vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, this set up what he says was one of his best vintages as a grower. “If you have a dry soil profile and irrigation, you have complete control over those vines right off the bat.”
Bud break began in mid-April, well-aligned with long-term averages but later than a number of recent vintages. Bloom began in late May, consistent with recent years. During bloom some areas experienced a significant wind storm. Others saw rain.
Along with the 2019 freeze, the poor set at bloom contributed to the lighter than expected crop. The final factor was the pandemic, with some wineries deciding not to bring in fruit or to bring in substantially less. This led growers to do heavy pruning and shoot thinning early in the season.
“I kind of said ‘Well, I'm going to grow what I can sell,’” says Boushey.
Of course, throughout the growing season, COVID-19 loomed.
“It was the most challenging year by far,” Boushey says. “So much anxiety, especially at the beginning.”
Growers divided up crews, made sure they were spaced out, and took other precautions to try and minimize risks. Winemakers, who didn’t have the benefit of working outdoors, also had to work through the challenges.
“Everyone was trying to figure out how to operate,” says Gorski. "It was extremely stressful."
Katie Nelson, previously at Columbia Crest and recently appointed as winemaker at Chateau Ste Michelle, noted that working in the cellar during the pandemic did have its advantages.
“We say cellar work is sort of the original social distancing,” she says wryly.
While June was at times cool and, in some places wet, July weather improved considerably, with warm but seldom hot temperatures. Late July and August saw several heat spikes, with temperatures reaching up into triple digits. As growers and winemakers started to get a better sense of the crop, many were surprised how light it was.
“I think there was a feeling that it was a little bit smaller, but not 25%,” says Kendall Mix, winemaker at Milbrandt Vineyards and Wahluke Wine Company on the Wahluke Slope.
As a result, minimal thinning was done as harvest approached.
“We spent a quarter of what we had budgeted on crop thinning,” says Lacey Lybeck, vineyard manager at Sagemoor Vineyards in the White Bluffs region of Columbia Valley.
“I'd never seen it like that before,” says Boushey. “I was like, ‘Geez, what else is going to happen?’”
What else would turn out to be wildfire smoke from California and Oregon.
The smoke came into eastern Washington briefly in early September and then blew out over the Pacific for a week. However, winds eventually shifted, moving it back in through the Columbia Gorge and then Columbia Valley from September 10th to 18th.
“That put a lot of stress on everybody,” Sauer says. “Basically we didn't see the sun for eight days.”
As has occurred in vintages like 2017 and to a lesser extent in 2018, the smoke impacted maturation in a number of ways.
“The sugar accumulation just flatlined,” said Sauer, “But the nights were just as warm, so respiration was still happening. Berry development was still happening.”
“It was a really good year to be out tasting fruit,” says Mix. “If you weren't out in the vineyard, you probably missed that.”
With concerns of potential smoke taint, winemakers did small-scale fermentations for sensory analysis. This became even more critical as the intensity of the fires in California and Oregon increased, overwhelming the ability of commercial laboratories to do analytic testing.
“The smoke was just kind of another kick in the pants,” says James Mantone, owner and winemaker at Syncline Winery in the Columbia Gorge.
In the end, however, winemakers were cautiously optimistic that Washington dodged widespread impacts from the smoke. Petit Verdot, Mourvèdre, and Cabernet Franc in some locations appeared to be the most affected.
“I'm still just nervous because it's my job to be, but I'm very guardedly optimistic as of right now,” says Figgins.
Ideal weather prevailed in the latter part of September, with October seeing above average temperatures. In the end, the big story of the vintage was the small crop.
“It was definitely one of the lighter crops I've seen,” says Mary Clubb, owner and managing winemaker at L’Ecole No. 41 in Walla Walla Valley.
Along with factors previously mentioned, other contributors were smaller cluster and berry sizes.
“What we saw was cluster counts were up, but cluster size and berry size were significantly down this year,” says Mantone.
While growers were worried at the beginning of the season about how much they should grow, in the end there was barely enough fruit to go around, with some left wanting more.
“I picked every last cluster,” says Boushey.
“We were right at or just above the long term average almost during the whole year,” says Clubb. “But then September and certainly for sure October was higher.”
In the end, despite the many stresses of the year, winemakers were extremely pleased with the results.
“They're just beautiful wines – aromatic and dense but with levity to them and just super dark and good acid. Some of the darkest wines of my career,” says Figgins.
He attributed the dark colors to the summer heat and the poor set giving better sun penetration into the clusters.
“I actually love when we get poor set years,” Figgins says. “They tend to be very high quality years if it's a solid vintage otherwise.”
A well-forecast frost event October 23rd led many growers who still had fruit out to pick in advance of that or shortly thereafter, bringing the growing season to a close.
While winemakers were no doubt happy with the results of the vintage, many expressed concern about whether consumers would want to drink wines labeled with what was undoubtedly for all a very difficult year. During the growing season, some even questioned whether they should be making wines at all. For Mantone, the answer is an emphatic ‘Yes.’
“People made wine and in the world wars, when the trenches literally went through their vineyards,” Mantone says. “I think [2020 vintage wines] are going to be important wines from a historical perspective and from a psychological perspective. It's almost more important than ever to be making wine in difficult times.”
All quotes from interviews conducted in December 2020. Images by Richard Duval.
***
Harvest pick dates are below. The information in the table is aggregated from personal correspondence with growers and winemakers, as well as information posted on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram. It is not intended to be comprehensive but rather as a snapshot of what went on around the state. If you wish to send data for your grapes or vineyards in the future (or correct any of the information below), please email me at wawinereport@gmail.com.
Reimagining Woodinville
As a wine region, Woodinville is full of contradictions. While the town itself has a rich agrarian history, whatever grapevines exist are purely decorative. Almost all of the state’s grapes are grown at least 100 miles to the east.
With a population of 13,000, Woodinville has an appealing, small-town feel, yet downtown Seattle lies only 20 miles away. It’s home to more than 130 wineries and tasting rooms, by far the most of any region in the state outside eastern Washington’s Walla Walla Valley. Many of them are situated curiously in industrial parks and strip malls, while others are in French-style chateaus.
Woodinville’s juxtapositions have always been part of its charm, however. It’s a unique, ever-changing wine region. Its latest evolution is underway.
Read the rest of the article here.
Stoller winemaker Melissa Burr is making History
Old vines are one of the wine world’s most cherished possessions. They not only can bring additional nuance and complexity, they are also living pieces of history.
Stoller Family Estate vice president of winemaking Melissa Burr first became interested in working with old vine fruit when her mother-in-law purchased a piece of property in the Columbia Gorge. The land had a 12-acre vineyard, including Pinot Noir vines planted in the late 1960s. The vineyard, which has been alternately referred to as Mont Elise, Atavus, and Dragonfly, sits 1,800 feet above sea level – quite high by Pacific Northwest standards.
“I was really intrigued by it,” Burr says.
However, it wasn’t until Great Northwest Wine writer Andy Perdue encouraged Burr to look at other old vine sites that the project took shape.
“He was one of the people talking about [Monte Elise] when I was first getting going,” Burr says. “He really inspired me.”
Instead of simply working with Mont Elise fruit, Burr decided to seek out old vine plantings throughout the Pacific Northwest. Perdue connected her with the owners of Otis Vineyard, which had Cabernet Sauvignon vines planted in 1957 – the oldest Cabernet in Washington. She soon added Muscat of Alexandria planted in 1917 at Upland Vineyard – the oldest vines in the state.
“It was about trying to work with growers who have these historic vineyards, just out of curiosity and out of preservation of these vines,” Burr says of the idea to start an old vine focused winery.
For the project, Burr partnered with Stoller Wine Group owner Bill Stoller. However, when Burr and Stoller president Gary Mortensen set about searching for a name for the brand, most they considered were already taken.
“[Mortensen] was getting so frustrated. ‘I just want something that's says ‘history,’ that says the word,’” Burr recalls. Miraculously, the word ‘history’ itself was not trademarked.
Over time, Burr added a Zinfandel from a vineyard in The Dalles, Oregon, planted in the late 1800s that are the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest. She’s also worked with Windrow Vineyard Cabernet planted in 1981 – the oldest Cabernet in Walla Walla Valley. There's also old vine Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, Merlot from Canoe Ridge, and Cabernet Franc from Red Willow.
In 2017, the winery added a red blend, made from a combination of old vine sites and Washington vineyards Burr thinks are exciting.
“[The red blend] really satisfies a need, and the quality for value in Washington is phenomenal,” Burr says.
The History wines are sold on-line, through a wine club, and through Stoller’s tasting rooms in Dayton and Bend, Oregon.
While one of Burr’s goals with History is to work with the same sites over time, that is not always possible. As with all things, eventually these vines truly do become history. The 1957 Cabernet vines at Otis Vineyard were subsequently replanted once the vines were no longer productive. The 1917 Muscat plantings also met their demise.
“Just because of the nature of how things work, I've had sites come and go,” Burr says.
She also notes that while old vine sites are often revered, older doesn’t always mean better. Eventually, vines need to be replanted.
“Old vine doesn't always mean top quality,” Burr says. “You can't just hang onto the vines just because they’re old.”
But for those vines that still do produce high quality fruit, the results can reveal something magical, as History proves.
“I truly do think that these old vines make really special, complex wine,” Burr says.
History 2016 Mont Elise Vineyard Gewürztraminer Columbia Gorge $30 92 points
Fruit for this wine comes from some of the oldest vines in the Columbia Gorge, planted in 1968. Generous aromas of Mandarin orange, flower, lychee and ginger lead to just off-dry drinking, exquisitely balanced fruit flavors that are light on their feet but bring intensity. It’s gorgeous, exhibiting the area’s acidity and mineral streaks. Editor’s Choice
History 2017 The Pines Vineyard Zinfandel Columbia Valley (OR) $65 92 points
History 2017 The Pines Vineyard Zinfandel Columbia Valley (OR) $65 92 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, planted in the late 1800s. Appealing aromas of raspberry, cranberry, and baking spice are followed by a broad but sophisticated palate. It’s a tribute to the variety. Editor’s Choice
History 2017 Red Blend Columbia Valley $40 92 points
History 2017 Red Blend Columbia Valley $40 92 points
Coming fro m some of the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, this wine is 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec and 9% Merlot. The aromas are pulled back, with notes of plum, dried leaves, cherry, and whiffs of tar. The flavors are plump, joyful and well-balanced, with an emphasis on purity. It’s a testament to old vine fruit—and all about sophistication. Editor’s Choice
History 2017 Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley (OR) $75 91 points
History 2017 Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley (OR) $75 91 points
This side project from the Oregon’s Stoller focuses on some of the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, with this one coming from the first commercial plantings in the valley (1981). It leans into the variety’s savory side, with aromas of fresh huckleberry, marionberry, nori, dark soil, and whiffs of whole green pepper. The soft, supple flavors show sneaky intensity. It hangs on the finish. The oak is pulled back, letting the fruit shine. This is all about sophistication. Editor’s Choice
Reviews from Wine Enthusiast April 2021. See previous History reviews at winemag.com.
Images courtesy of Stoller Family Estate.
Images courtesy of Stoller Family Estate.
Enter Valdemar Estates
Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for April 2021. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read information on how I review wines here. Read about the Wine Enthusiast rating system here. Read about how to interpret my scores here. All of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide. See previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast's on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.
The winery also smartly hired Marie-Eve Gilla to make its wines. Gilla previously made her mark at Forgeron Cellars, crafting classy Rhône and Bordeaux-style wines as well as some best-in-state Chardonnay. We now have the first of Gilla’s Valdemar wines, and they are nothing short of extraordinary.
Gilla has always shown a gift for white winemaking, but the winery’s 2018 DuBrul Chardonnay takes things to another level – the perfect confluence of great winemaker, great site, and great vintage. It’s textured, structured, and flavorful. It’s one of the very best Chardonnays I’ve ever had from Washington – an accomplishment for this winemaker and for the state (Valdemar 2018 DuBrul Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley $50, 94 points, Editor’s Choice).
Another gorgeous white is the 2019 Sagemoor Vineyard Roussanne. This is part of the winery’s Component Trials series, experimenting with different sites and varieties. Roussanne can be a tricky one, but when done well, it can make some of the most impressive white wines in Washington. That is what we have here, with its aromas and flavors of white peach, pear, and spice. Again, the acid balance is exquisite (Valdemar 2019 Component Trial 019-A Sagemoor Vineyards Roussanne Columbia Valley $40, 93 points, Editor’s Choice).
Valdemar’s reds include three stunning Walla Walla Valley Syrahs. The first comes from Blue Mountain Vineyard. There’s volume, texture and weight to the blueberry, plum, and herb flavors, but there’s also captivating deftness and dexterity. It shows what can be accomplished with this variety in this area of the valley (Valdemar 2018 Blue Mountain Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75, 94 points, Editor’s Choice).
The next Syrah comes from Stoney Vine Vineyard. Many wines from the Rocks District focus on brawn and the region’s intense savory profile. This wine shows this sub-appellation can also provide plenty of grace and finesse, with rich, silky earth, plum, and orange rind flavors (Valdemar 2018 Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75, 93 points, Editor’s Choice).
Finally, there is the Walla Walla Valley Syrah, with all of the fruit coming from LeFore Vineyard, also in the Rocks District. Aromas of earth, red plum, and huckleberry lead to palate coating fruit flavors. The balance is impeccable (Valdemar 2018 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $65, 93 points, Editor’s Choice).
These wines are not only delicious and outrageously high quality, they are also in Gilla’s distinctive style. Along with the stately building and Valdemar’s plans to plant in the North Fork area, they announce the winery as a major player in Walla Walla Valley’s present and future.
April’s Wine Enthusiast reviews also include two reserve level wines from Gramercy Cellars. Founded in 2005, Gramercy is a winery that zigged when everyone else zagged.
Many Washington wineries launched in the mid-2000s focused on displaying the power that the state’s wines can bring. Gramercy instead made wines that focused on subtlety and a brighter acid profile.
This marked the beginning of a trend that numerous other wineries have subsequently followed, of lower oak, deliberately higher acid, food friendly wines. However, 15 years later, no one is doing that style better than Gramercy (Gramercy 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $95, 93 points, Cellar Selection; Gramercy 2017 John Lewis Syrah Walla Walla Valley $87, 92 points, Editor’s Choice).
Matthews Winery was founded in 1992, and their tagline is “Bordeaux-inspired, Washington crafted.” While the winery has focused most recently on the Cabernet-driven aspects of Bordeaux wines in terms of reds, its latest offerings explore Right Bank-style, Merlot-dominant blends in the inaugural release of the Cuvée and Reserve Cuvée.
“We've been working to place a Merlot-dominant blend next to our Cab-dominant blend, because we believe that Merlot is equal [to Cabernet] in everything you could want from this state in a red varietal. It’s sensational,” says Matthews proprietor Bryan Otis.
Sensational it is. The winery’s 2018 Cuvée is 60% Merlot and the rest near equal parts Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. It starts out still in its shell but quickly opens to reveal aromas and flavors of dark chocolate, spice, cherry, and cocoa powder. The palate is seamless and layered. It’s a whole lot of wine for the money and brings plenty of immediate appeal (Matthews 2018 Cuvée Columbia Valley $34, 93 points, Editor’s Choice).
The winery’s Reserve Cuvée, however, is more aimed toward the future. Just short of being able to be varietally labeled as Merlot, it’s tightly wound with raspberry, cherry, and spice flavors. Give it a few years in the cellar to see it at its best (Matthews 2018 Reserve Cuvée Columbia Valley $85, 93 points).
Rocky Pond Winery meanwhile is spearheading exploration of the Rocky Reach area, which has been proposed as its own sub-appellation of the Columbia Valley. Like the Lake Chelan appellation just to the north, Rocky Reach is unique in that it has granitic bedrock rather than the basalt found throughout most of the rest of the Columbia Valley.
Rocky Pond’s Double D Vineyard has fist-sized cobblestones strewn about the grounds (check out the images on the winery's website). The combination of soil and climate give the wines a truly unique profile (Rocky Pond 2017 La Domestique Reserve Double D Vineyard Columbia Valley $45, 92 points, Cellar Selection; Rocky Pond 2017 Reserve Double D Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $59, 91 points, Editor’s Choice).
One of the interesting evolutions in Washington of late has been wineries exploring lower oak, early release styles. We see that with the 2019 Le Doubblé Troubblé Merlot. The flavors of pomegranate and plum are fresh and pure. Give it a decant to see it at its best (Le Doubblé Troubblé 2019 Dry Hollow Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley (OR) $30, 91 points, Editor’s Choice).
They say slow and steady wins the race. I don’t know about slow, but Saviah Cellars has won the steady race many times over, producing always-delicious wines that punch well above their weight class. See below for the full list, but I want to focus here on two of the winery’s white offerings.
Cayuse Vineyards and Reynvaan Family Vineyards have long demonstrated that top quality Viognier can come out of the Rocks District. However, those wines can be near unattainable. Here Saviah offers a wine that you not only can get your hands on, it is also exceptionally well-priced (Saviah 2019 Estate Vineyard Viognier Walla Walla Valley $30, 91 points, Editor’s Choice).
The winery also offers a lovely Chardonnay from the newly approved Royal Slope appellation. Again, both the wine and the value impress (Saviah 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice).
Sticking with the white wine theme, Lisa Callan at Callan Cellars has two delicious Boushey Vineyard offerings. Picpoul is planted in microscopic amounts in Washington, but is clearly capable of greatness (Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Picpoul Yakima Valley $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice). The same can be said of Grenache Blanc (Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Grenache Blanc Yakima Valley $25, 90 points, Editor’s Choice).
These varieties will always remain niche in Washington, but I also expect more producers to work with them and more vineyards to plant them in the coming years. It is clear Picpoul and Grenache Blanc are well-suited to the state, as these wines from Callan as well as others ably demonstrate.
In terms of value wines, the 2018 Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard and Winery g3 Cabernet makes one sit up and pay attention. It brings depth and intensity rarely seen at this price (Goose Ridge 2018 g3 Estate Grown Family Owned Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $15, 91 points, Best Buy).
As in every vintage, the L’Ecole No. 41 Semillon continues to be one of the best values in the state. The 2019 vintage, however, brings a little something extra. It’s the best Semillon I’ve had from this esteemed producer, and that is saying something (L'Ecole No. 41 2019 Semillon Columbia Valley $15, 92 points, Best Buy).
Looking at wines priced in the mid-20s, Grounded Wine Co. and Headturner Wine Co. offer two winners (Grounded Wine Co. 2018 Collusion Red Blend Columbia Valley $23, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Headturner 2018 The Nerve Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice).
Finally, Calendar (made by Woodhouse Wine Estates) and Idaho's Huston Vineyards give two delicious, aromatic whites. Calendar’s is Muscat Ottonel-driven (Calendar 2019 White Blend Yakima Valley $14, 90 points, Best Buy). Huston's is Riesling dominant, with the wine name coming from Chicken Dinner Road where the winery is located (Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner White Blend Snake River Valley $16, 90 points, Editor’s Choice). Both are delicious.
Finally, I would be remiss if I didn't mention the Woodward Canyon 2018 Barbera. This wine has everything you want from the variety - bright, tart, fresh fruit and a big zing of acidity (Woodward Canyon 2018 Estate Barbera Walla Walla Valley $32, 92 points, Editor’s Choice).
Without further ado.
* * *
92 wines reviewed in the April issue of Wine Enthusiast.
10,000 Hours 2018 Red Mountain $35 92 points
Plum, black currant and barrel spice aromas are followed by broad dark fruit and spice flavors that show plenty of concentration and intensity. It brings a real sense a depth from start to finish. Editor’s Choice
10,000 Hours 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $35 90 points
This wine is still wound up tightly right now, with notes of toasty oak, herb and dark fruit. Blackberry and black cherry flavors follow. The tannins are tightly wound. There’s a lot of goodness to be had. Give it a decant. Editor’s Choice
Battle Creek NV Yamhela Vineyard Blanc de Noir Sparkling Blend America $45 90 points
This was given an American label, but don’t be fooled—this is all Willamette Valley fruit. Strawberry and raspberry aromas lead to bright, fresh flavors. There’s a lot to like.
Be Human 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $17 91 points
This wine is unmistakably Cabernet, with its aromas of black currant, spice and dark fruit. The palate brings seriousness uncommon to see at a wine at this price, rich through the middle with plenty of structure to back it up. A light medicinal streak runs in the background. Editor’s Choice
Be Human 2018 Columbia Valley $17 89 points
This vintage offers a bounty of fruit, and this wine is a great example of it. Aromas of light toasty oak meld with plum, leading to bountiful black currant and raspberry flavors. There’s pleasing balance throughout.
Bergevin Lane 2016 Moonspell Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $35 88 points
With this 100% varietal, aromas of gummy, cinnamon and cherry are followed by green pepper, vanilla and cherry flavors with a lightly grainy feel. Give a short decant.
Calendar 2019 White Blend Yakima Valley $14 90 points
Consisting mostly of Muscat Ottonel, the aromas pop, with notes of Mandarin orange spritz, flower and honey. It delights by drinking just about bone-dry, remaining light on its feet, and bringing structure rarely seen for the variety. Best Buy
Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Picpoul Yakima Valley $25 91 points
Aromas of whole lemon and lemon oil are followed by a rounded palate and quite puckering fruit flavors. There’s a big kick of acidity that delights. Pair it with lemon risotto and prawns. Editor’s Choice
Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Grenache Blanc Yakima Valley $25 90 points
Coming from one of the state’s top vineyards, the nose of this wine offers green apple, lemon zest and wet rock leading to a tart, puckering and sleek lemon twist flavor. It’s a thoroughly delicious, high-acid wine. Pair it with scallop ceviche with kiwi and lime. Editor’s Choice
Callan 2019 Rosé Yakima Valley $0 88 points
Pale pink with an orange tint, this wine is 70% Cinsault and 30% Grenache. Aromas of strawberry and peach are followed by full feeling flavors that show some sweetness but with enough acidity to pull it off.
Chasing Rain 2018 Merlot Red Mountain $25 91 points
This wine is a lot of what there is to love about Washington Merlot. It offers an opulent mouthful of ripe fruit flavors, with plenty of structure to back it all up. Editor’s Choice
Chasing Rain 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $25 90 points
Red Mountain Cabernet at this price? Yes, please. Blackberry, dried herb and spice lead to palate-coating fruit flavors with plenty of structure. It shows impressive balance. Editor’s Choice
Chasing Rain 2018 Red Mountain $25 88 points
Aromas of chocolate and cherry lead to soft fruit flavors. There’s a lot of structure surrounding them, upping the interest. Decant if drinking in the near term.
Claar 2018 White Bluffs Vineyard Estate Grown & Bottled Syrah Columbia Valley $30 87 points
Light aromas of plum and wood spice are followed by somewhat lighter-styled black pepper and plum flavors. The concentration seems a bit light at times, but what’s there pleases.
Elevation Cellars 2013 Monolith Columbia Valley $41 88 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 70% of this wine, with the rest Merlot (14%) and near equal parts Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. The aromas bring notes of dried herbs, celery salt and dried cherry. Tire rubber and cherry flavors follow, with the tannins showing some astringency.
Elevation Cellars 2016 Black Peak StoneTree Vineyard Tempranillo Wahluke Slope $38 87 points
Aromas of vanilla, baking spice, wood and cherry lead to vanilla-laden, creamy-feeling flavors backed by astringent tannins. The oak gets far out in front of the fruit.
Elevation Cellars 2013 Jammin’ Columbia Valley $25 87 points
This wine is 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec. The aromas bring notes of fresh garden herbs, hay, cocoa, cherry and dark chocolate. Despite the age, the palate is bunched up and short. It brings surprising acidity given the warmth of the vintage.
Gård 2017 Winemaker’s Select Lawrence Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $85 91 points
The aromas bring notes of raspberry compote, coffee and spice. Plentiful cherry and black licorice flavors follow, with the lightly grainy tannins giving a squeeze. Coffee notes linger on the finish. This one needs time to be fully appreciated but has good stuffing.
Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40 90 points
Roasted coffee bean and dark chocolate aromas are upfront, with cherry behind. Lighter-styled vanilla and coffee flavors follow, with a pleasing sense of texture and balance. It’s a restrained offering of the variety. The oak plays a prominent part in the show but plays it well.
Gård 2018 Lawrence Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley $28 90 points
The aromas offer notes of candlewax and crayon. There’s plenty of deftness to the lightly creamy flavors, keeping the interest high, with lovely balance to it all.
Gård 2016 Reserve Grand Klasse Lawrence Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $55 89 points
The aromas offer notes of dark roasted coffee bean, green pepper, dried herbs, orange rind and cherry. Sleek coffee and cherry flavors follow. Coffee notes linger on the finish. Like a number of wines from this vintage, the fruit concentration is light, but what’s there is tasty.
Gård 2017 The Don Lawrence Estate Wines Red Blend Columbia Valley $24 88 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up a little more than three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. The aromas offer notes of cherry, tobacco and mesquite, not seeming entirely settled. The flavors are pulled back, surrounded by bright acidity and smoky flavors.
Gård 2017 Grand Klasse Reserve Lawrence Vineyards Roussanne Columbia Valley $28 88 points
The aromas bring notes of toast and char that are quite prominent. Aromas of nut oil follow. The flavors are sleek and savory, with pleasing acidity. There are good things happening if the oak integrates.
Goose Ridge 2018 g3 Estate Grown Family Owned Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $15 91 points
A black currant aroma is at the fore of this wine, followed by notes of spice and herb. There is a whole lot of depth and intensity to the dark fruit flavors. It’s absolutely chock-full of fruit and structure. Best Buy
Gramercy 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $95 93 points
Aromas of mocha, piercingly pure cherry, graphite and cedar box lead to a textured, graceful palate. The style is very pulled back and is all about elegance and grace. It brings a fine sense of acidity and tannin structure. Pair it with ratatouille. Best after 2025 with a very long life beyond that. Cellar Selection
Gramercy 2017 John Lewis Syrah Walla Walla Valley $87 92 points
This wine is light in color for the variety and vintage. The aromas bring notes of peat, dried stem and moist soil. The elegant, textured smoked meat flavors meanwhile are all about grace and precision. A lingering finish follows. As always with this producer, it’s a wine intended to be enjoyed with food. Pair it with grilled lamb chops. Editor’s Choice
Grounded Wine Co. 2018 Collusion Red Blend Columbia Valley $23 91 points
The aromas bring notes of caramel, plum, tobacco and cherry. The luscious, plump, juicy fruit flavors have more than enough acidity and tannin structure to hold them up. Editor’s Choice
Headturner 2018 The Nerve Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $25 91 points
This is an appropriately named, attention-getting wine. The aromas draw you into the glass with notes of dried herbs, plum and black currant. The flavors are fresh and lively, with a lightly grainy feel to the tannins and pleasing depth of flavor. Editor’s Choice
Headturner 2018 Flyaway Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills $25 88 points
Panna cotta and vanilla make up the aromas and the flavors. A creamy feel caps it off, along with a light medicinal accent. It finishes warm.
History 2016 Mont Elise Vineyard Gewürztraminer Columbia Gorge $30 92 points
Fruit for this wine comes from some of the oldest vines in the Columbia Gorge, planted in 1968. Generous aromas of Mandarin orange, flower, lychee and ginger lead to just off-dry drinking, exquisitely balanced fruit flavors that are light on their feet but bring intensity. It’s gorgeous, exhibiting the area’s acidity and mineral streaks. Editor’s Choice
History 2017 The Pines Vineyard Zinfandel Columbia Valley (OR) $65 92 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, planted in the late 1800s. Appealing aromas of raspberry, cranberry and baking spice are followed by a broad but sophisticated palate. It’s a tribute to the variety. Editor’s Choice
History 2017 Columbia Valley $40 92 points
Coming from some of the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, this wine is 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec and 9% Merlot. The aromas are pulled back, with notes of plum, dried leaves, cherry and whiffs of tar. The flavors are plump, joyful and well-balanced, with an emphasis on purity. It’s a testament to old vine fruit—and all about sophistication. Editor’s Choice
History 2017 Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley (OR) $75 91 points
This side project from the Oregon’s Stoller focuses on some of the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, with this one coming from the first commercial plantings in the valley (1981). It leans into the variety’s savory side, with aromas of fresh huckleberry, marionberry, nori, dark soil and whiffs of whole green pepper. The soft, supple flavors show sneaky intensity. It hangs on the finish. The oak is pulled back, letting the fruit shine. This is all about sophistication. Editor’s Choice
Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner White Blend Snake River Valley (ID) $16 90 points
This is mostly Riesling (83%), with the rest Muscat Blanc and Roussanne. Aromas of lychee, pink grapefruit rind and white flowers jump from the glass. Dry, sleek and focused lemon and iced tea flavors follow, hanging around on the finish. Editor’s Choice
Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner Rosé Washington $19 88 points
Coming from an Idaho producer, this pale salmon wine with a gold tinge could be varietally labeled as Mourvèdre. The aromas bring notes of apple and raspberry leading to tart, medium-bodied flavors. There’s a lot to like.
Huston 2018 Malbec Snake River Valley (ID) $32 88 points
Asphalt aromas are at the fore and eventually give way to green pepper, orange essence, exotic spice and loose gravel. Reserved, bunched up fruit flavors follow. The tannins give a grip, and the acidity is bright. It’s not clear where it’s all going.
Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner Red Blend Idaho $18 87 points
Fruit-forward aromas of plum, huckleberry and dried herbs lead to tart, center-focused green pepper and cherry flavors with some tart acidity behind them. There are good things happening, but it comes off as a bit green.
Kennedy Shah 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $55 87 points
Aromas of vanilla, garden fresh herb, tar, dried black currant and black cherry lead to a palate that paints around the edges. There’s brightness to the acidity, with the tannins giving a light squeeze.
Kennedy Shah 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $18 87 points
The aromas bring notes of brown and green stem, dried leaves, hay and plum followed by tart tobacco and hay flavors. The acidity of the vintage is primary. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best.
Kerloo 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $18 90 points
The aromas suggest notes of star fruit, grass, tropical fruit and herb. Bright, light on their feet kiwi skin and pineapple rind flavors follow. It’s a very pretty, food-friendly offering. Pair it with halibut with a pineapple-kiwi relish.
L'Ecole No. 41 2019 Semillon Columbia Valley $15 92 points
L’Ecole has been carrying the banner for this variety in Washington for decades. This wine has everything there is to love about the variety, with textural richness and flavor intensity along with plenty of acidity to back it up. Best Buy
Le Doubblé Troubblé 2019 Dry Hollow Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley (OR) $30 91 points
This is fascinating—an Oregon side of the Columbia Valley Merlot in a Rhône-shaped bottle released extremely early with the oak pulled way back. Aromas of red plum, muscat gummy and pomegranate lead to pleasantly pure, textured, layered fruit flavors. It’s a radically different interpretation of this variety. Give it a bit of additional time in bottle or decant to see it at its best. Editor’s Choice
Le Doubblé Troubblé 2019 Gewürztraminer Columbia Gorge $30 89 points
Boom! The aromas explode with notes of lychee, ginger and white flowers, bringing vitality. The palate drinks dry and is light on its feet but with plenty of flavor, with mouthwatering acidity that brings it home.
Maison Bleue 2018 Frontière Funk Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75 91 points
The aromas immediately place this wine in the Rocks District, with notes of moist earth, black pepper, peat and firepit, along with orange rind. Soft, plush fruit and savory flavors follow, bringing restraint and sophistication alongside a lightly creamy feel.
Maison Bleue 2018 Voyageur LeFore Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $50 90 points
Coming from a Rocks District vineyard known for its quality but never the area’s signature funk, this producer’s fruit-forward style is on display. Fresh berry, orange rind, flower and gummy bear aromas lead to elegant, pure fruit flavors. It’s a vivid display of this area and vineyard.
Maison Bleue 2018 Gravière Stone Valley Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $65 90 points
Bright aromas of berry, gummy and cherry along with whiffs of smoke are followed by fruit flavors that bring purity. The balance is lovely.
Marion-Field 2016 Toby Tylor Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $28 88 points
This wine explores the variety’s greener, more savory side, with notes of stem, green and poblano peppers, flower, cocoa and cherry. There’s plenty of density to the flavors. It might be too green for some tastes, but there are good things happening.
Matthews 2018 Reserve Cuvée Columbia Valley $85 93 points
This is the inaugural release of this wine, with Merlot making up just under three-quarters and the rest Cabernet Franc (16%), Cabernet Sauvignon (8%) and Petit Verdot (2%). Still settling in, baking spice aromas are out front, followed by notes of cinnamon and raspberry. Fruit and barrel intertwine on the palate. It needs time, but the stuffing is all there. Best after 2024.
Matthews 2018 Cuvée Columbia Valley $34 93 points
This is a new offering from this long-time winery, a blend of 60% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Cabernet Franc. The aromas take some time to get going, with notes of cocoa powder, barrel spice, dark chocolate, cherry and whiffs of green pepper. Ripe black currant and raspberry flavors follow, bringing layering and seamlessness. It sticks around for a long time on the raspberry- and cocoa-filled finish. It is absolutely delicious. Editor’s Choice
Mercer 2017 Malbec Horse Heaven Hills $25 89 points
The aromas are reserved, with notes of plum and dried herbs. Plump but still light, appealing fruit flavors follow, dipping in the middle. Pleasingly bright acidity accent it.
Mercer 2016 Petit Verdot Horse Heaven Hills $32 89 points
The aromas offer notes of garden herbs, blue fruit, crushed plum, orange, flowers and vanilla, with the vanilla and plum flavors being balance and polish. The variety’s acidity keeps it all in focus, though the oak gets a bit out front.
Mercer 2017 Merlot Horse Heaven Hills $25 88 points
Brooding dark raspberry aromas lead to somewhat streamlined-seeming blueberry and plum flavors. The vintage’s acidity supports it all.
Mercer 2017 Reserve Syrah Horse Heaven Hills $42 88 points
Aromas of forest floor, brown stem, red apple and flower are followed by light, graceful fruit flavors. It’s part intrigue, part delivery, with good things happening, but the concentration seems light.
Mercer Bros. 2019 Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills $17 89 points
Pear, apple and candlewax aromas lead to light but creamy feeling peach flavors. There’s a mouthwatering aspect to it that ups the interest.
Mercer Bros. 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $20 89 points
Blueberry and plum aromas announce themselves. Ripe, plush flavors follow. Herb notes linger on the finish. There’s a pleasing sense of balance throughout. It’s hard to pin down as Cabernet, but who cares?
Mercer Bros. 2018 Edge of Heaven Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $20 87 points
Plum, medicine and asphalt aromas are followed by plump, fleshy blue fruit, green herb and smoke flavors that paint around the edges. The medicinal notes provide some distraction.
Next 2017 Red Blend Columbia Valley $13 85 points
Aromas of smoke and Vicks VapoRub lead to flavors that are plump around the edges and lighter in the middle.
Old Tavern Farm 2018 Big Barn Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $24 88 points
This wine doesn’t seem to have fully settled in initially, with notes of asphalt, spice, cedar, cigar box and cherry cordial. Full-bodied fruit flavors follow, with all of the structure that this appellation brings. Time will tell if the aromas and palate sync up.
Palencia 2016 El Viñador Petit Verdot Wahluke Slope $50 88 points
The aromas are bright, with notes of raspberry, cranberry and green herbs. The palate brings a whole lot of acidity and tannin. A warm, chocolate-filled finish caps it off.
Pambrun 2017 Chrysologue Walla Walla Valley $65 90 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Merlot (17%) and Cabernet Franc. Reductive aromas dominate initially, with notes of asphalt and wet tar followed by plum, blue fruits and berries. The palate shows flashy fruit flavors and acidity of the vintage. Time should bring it all together. The stuffing is there.
Pambrun 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $70 90 points
The oak leads on the aromas initially, with notes of vanilla in front of cherry and raspberry. The fruit flavors are bunched up right now, extending over time. It’s a light, pretty offering of this variety.
Pambrun 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $60 88 points
Aromas of red apple skin, cream, cherry cordial and raspberry gummy lead to center focused fruit flavors. It wants more around the edges.
Pamplin 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $50 88 points
This is 100% varietal. The aromas are wound up tight, and the palate is grainy and gritty right now. The concentration seems light, as with many wines from this vintage, but the acidity is impressive. Some time should bring it all together. Best after 2025.
Rickshaw 2018 Red Blend Washington $16 90 points
This is a blend of 30% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 17% Sangiovese, 14% Cabernet Franc and 11% Syrah. The aromas pop in notes of raspberry, blueberry and spice. The palate shows pleasing intensity and sophistication. Editor’s Choice
Rocky Pond 2017 La Domestique Reserve Double D Vineyard Columbia Valley $45 92 points
Merlot comprises over three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Appealing aromas of dried herbs, cherry and raspberry lead to a zippy currant flavor that fleshes out over time. The acidity is tart and bright, lifting it all up. Best after 2023. Cellar Selection
Rocky Pond 2017 Reserve Double D Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $59 91 points
This wine comes from a newer site in the Rocky Reach region, with the grapes grown on granite bedrock soils—a rarity for Washington. It has classic Cabernet aromas of cherry, crushed herbs, currant, cedar and olive. The palate is medium-plus in feel, soft, reserved and understated. Bright acidity provides support. Give it some additional time in the cellar. Editor’s Choice
Rocky Pond 2019 Double D Vineyard Semillon Columbia Valley $24 90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the young Rocky Reach region south of Chelan. Reticent pear aromas lead to textured stone fruit flavors. Lovely acidity stretches throughout.
Rocky Pond 2019 Double D Vineyard Roussanne-Marsanne Columbia Valley $24 89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the Rocky Reach growing region. A 50-50 blend, the aromas are light but the palate is broad feeling and textured, leading to a warm finish. There are a lot of good things happening.
Rocky Pond 2019 Clos CheValle Vineyard Gewürztraminer Lake Chelan $24 87 points
The aromas are reserved for the variety, with notes of lychee and flower. Light floral flavors follow, with the concentration not always seeming there.
Saviah 2018 The Funk Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley $65 92 points
This Syrah is cofermented with 4% Viognier, and its aromas are bright, with notes of fresh orange zest, black olive, medicine, smoked meat and firepit. Soft, plush, velvety flavors follow. Orange rind notes linger on the finish. It has a juicy feel that ups the interest. The Viognier plays a prominent role at present.
Saviah 2018 Une Vallée Walla Walla Valley $40 91 points
This is 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc. With fruit coming from McClellan, Pepper Bridge, Anna Marie and Eritage vineyards, the aromas bring notes of plum, blue fruit, earth, dried and fresh herbs and flowers. Soft, lighter-styled coffee, cherry and chocolate flavors follow. It’s all about grace.
Saviah 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $25 91 points
This wine comes from the recently approved Royal Slope appellation, and the aromas show pleasing subtlety, with notes of pear, crayon and wet stone. The lightly creamy stone fruit flavors are light on their feet, bringing the bright acidity typical of the vintage. The balance impresses, and it lingers on the finish. Editor’s Choice
Saviah 2019 Estate Vineyard Viognier Walla Walla Valley $30 91 points
Very varietal aromas of rich peach, pear, spice and flower are followed by fuller-feeling but still restrained stone fruit flavors. The concrete egg fermenting shows, giving the wine pleasing mineral accents. It brings intriguing acidity for the variety. A long finish keeps the interest up. Editor’s Choice
Saviah 2018 The Stones Speak Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley $55 91 points
This wine is a classic expression of Rocks District fruit, with notes of green olive tapenade, chopped parsley, flower, orange rind, soot and, of course, a whiff of funk. Broad, expansive medicine and olive flavors follow, showing intensity and depth.
Saviah 2018 Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 90 points
The aromas are reserved, with notes of green olive, cigar box, medicine and firepit. Sleek plum and savory flavors follow. It’s pleasing, but all seems quite pulled back.
Saviah 2017 Tempranillo Walla Walla Valley $38 90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Funk, Dugger Creek and Watermill Estate vineyards. The aromas bring notes of funk, roasted coffee bean, fresh and dried tobacco and ember. A savory, graceful, dried tobacco-filled palate follows. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery.
Saviah 2017 Big Sky Cuvée Columbia Valley $40 90 points
Merlot makes up half of this wine, Cabernet Sauvignon a quarter, and the rest Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The aromas intrigue, with notes of wet rock, cigar box, dark chocolate and cherry. The flavors bring pleasing restraint but also plushness—a winning combination. Medicinal notes linger on the finish.
Saviah 2017 Lewis Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $50 89 points
Firepit and Kalamata olive aromas are followed by pillowy soft smoke and medicine flavors. It brings plenty of goodness, but the medicinal notes distract.
Saviah 2018 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $32 89 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of ember, funk, plum and coffee. With fruit coming from Watermill, Funk, Lewis and Anna Marie vineyards, the palate is more elegantly styled but still flavorful. It’s a very pulled back, pretty expression of the variety.
Stemilt Creek NV Earthen Red Blend Columbia Valley $15 88 points
Cocoa, green pepper and baking spice aromas are followed by broad, seamless flavors of green pepper, cherry and a bit of smoke. Pleasing acidity enlivens it.
Stemilt Creek NV Boss Lady Adelaide AJ Mathison Estate Grown Syrah Columbia Valley $28 88 points
The aromas offer notes of cocoa, sweet barrel spice and red fruit. The palate is light but flavorful, tapering toward the blue fruit-filled finish. There’s less concentration than the listed abv would suggest.
Stemilt Creek 2017 Successive Generations Estate Grown Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $30 86 points
The aromas offer notes of dried tobacco, dried orange rind, cherry and barrel spice. Creamy-feeling, lightly smoky flavors follow. It all seems a bit dried out.
Stemilt Creek 2017 Thomas Cycle Mathison Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $28 85 points
Braised green pepper and black cherry aromas are followed by soft fruit flavors that bring a sense of elegance. Dried orange rind notes linger on the finish. The fruit seems quite underripe.
The Soldier 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $22 90 points
The aromas are fruit-forward in notes of plum and black currant accented by baking spice. The flavors are ripe and luscious. Pleasing acidity ties it all together.
Valdemar 2018 Blue Mountain Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75 94 points
This is a flat-out beautiful expression of valley Syrah. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of blueberry, plum and herb. The palate brings weight and volume but never gets bogged down, showing plenty of deftness and dexterity. The balance throughout is captivating as is the exceptionally lengthy, flavorful finish, kicking it up a notch. Gorgeous stuff. It wins on grace, balance and sneaky intensity rather than brawn. Editor’s Choice
Valdemar 2018 DuBrul Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley $50 94 points
Winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla has consistently made some of Washington’s most delicious Chardonnay, and here at her new assignment working with some of the state’s best fruit, she takes it to another level. It’s all about subtlety, with aromas of apple, pear, spice and whiffs of pineapple. The palate is textured and flavorful, but it’s the balance that captivates. Structure, balance, texture, acidity: This wine has it all—a true accomplishment for this winemaker and for the state. Editor’s Choice
Valdemar 2018 Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75 93 points
Rocks District wines are sometimes known for their brawn and outrageousness. This example shows the area is plenty capable of making wines focused on grace and finesse, too. The aromas are brooding, with notes of moist earth, blue fruits, plum and orange rind. The palate is rich in flavor and silky soft in feel, loaded with blue fruit flavors. The balance is exquisite and the length impressive. It’s a very pretty, classy offering from the area but with no shortage of hedonism. Editor’s Choice
Valdemar 2018 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $65 93 points
Almost all of the fruit for this wine comes from the LeFore Vineyard. Aromas of earth, red plum, orange rind, huckleberry and spice lead to full-feeling, palate-coating flavors. It shows a lot of layering, detail, depth, finesse and freshness. The balance is impeccable. Editor’s Choice
Valdemar 2019 Component Trial 019-A Sagemoor Vineyards Roussanne Columbia Valley $40 93 points
This is a classic example of the variety, with notes of pear, white peach, toast and savory spice. The palate is flavorful, broad and textured. The acidity balance is exquisite. It’s a standout. Editor’s Choice
Woodward Canyon 2018 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $99 93 points
Dark chocolate, barrel spice, vanilla, cherry and licorice aromas are followed by luscious black fruit flavors. There’s plenty of richness, texture and seamlessness along with a whole lot of structure. A long finish caps it off. It’s all about hedonism, but still possesses impressive balance, a classically Woodward styled wine. The oak is forward at present. Give it some time in the cellar or decant. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
Woodward Canyon 2018 Estate Barbera Walla Walla Valley $32 92 points
This variety is an extreme rarity in the state let alone in the valley, though this producer has been making it for more than 20 years. The fruit-forward notes of cherry, dark raspberry and bramble capture the attention. Bright, tart, acidity-driven flavors deliver. It’s thoroughly delightful. Pizza anyone? Editor’s Choice
Woodward Canyon 2018 Artist Series #27 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $59 90 points
This wine isn’t ready to reveal itself right now, with locked up aromas of chocolate, cocoa, cherry and spice. Coffee and cherry flavors follow. Give it some additional time in the cellar to blossom.
Washington grape production down in 2020, quality up
While production was down, growers and winemakers report the quality of the fruit was high, with smaller clusters, darker colors, and concentrated flavors.
“Overall, the vintage is spectacular,” Chris Figgins, president of Figgins Family Wines Estates, said following harvest. “Some of the darkest wines of my career.”
2020 was Washington’s lowest harvest total since 2012, when 188,000 tons were produced. The state’s production numbers had been steadily increasing to a high of 270,000 tons in 2016. However, recent years have shown more fluctuation due to both growing season and market factors. All published varieties showed decreases in 2020 from the previous year, with the exception of Riesling which had a modest increase.
There are a number of reasons for the decreased tonnage. The first is a series of freeze events that occurred in October 2019. Weather was unsettled during bloom, which led to a poor set. Both factors reduced cluster sizes and weights, with many reporting the crop 25% lighter than expected.
“It was definitely one of the lighter crops I've seen,” said Marty Clubb, co-owner and managing winemaker at L’Ecole No. 41 in Lowden.
Some producers also decided to bring in less fruit in 2020 due to market uncertainties related to COVID-19. Finally, wildfire smoke during harvest also impacted picking decisions, though most are cautiously optimistic that it did not have a widespread impact on wine quality.
Merlot saw the largest decrease from the prior year, dropping 25%. Though it is a bit player in the state with only 330 tons produced, Semillon decreased by 24%. This contributed to the price per ton of Semillon increasing 16%. Pinot Noir, also a minor player in the state, saw the largest increase in cost per ton, up 50% from 2019.
Of note, three varieties broke the $2,000 per ton mark, the first time this has occurred for any variety in Washington. They were Cabernet Sauvignon ($2,090 up from $1,702), Cabernet Franc ($2,167 up from $1,857), and the catchall “Other Red Varieties” ($2,032 up from $1,682). Cabernet Franc was the most expensive variety per ton.
The decreased tonnage led to some producers scrambling to get additional fruit.
“The spot market was active and healthy for the first time in years,” noted Lacey Lybeck, vineyard manager at Sagemoor Vineyards.
The first wines from the Washington’s 2020 vintage began to be released last month.
Image by Richard Duval.
Brian Carter Cellars to crowdsource funding for new tasting room
Longtime Woodinville winery Brian Carter Cellars announced this week that it will crowdsource funding for a new tasting room. The tasting room will be located in Woodin Creek Village, a new development two miles north of the tasting room’s current location.
“I got kind of nervous and backed out a few months ago. Now I'm back in again,” Carter says. “With this new funding idea, I feel confident.”
The winery will be looking to raise $400,000 by offering what it calls Tasting Room Foundation memberships, which will cost $1,000 each. Members will receive $1,200 worth of gift cards, a plaque on the wall, and a wine glass stenciled with their name that will reside at the facility for their use.
Carter says the idea to crowdsource funding was inspired by local restaurateur Thierry Rautureau, who once funded his restaurant Luc in part by selling gift certificates.
“I called up Thierry, and he was very open about what the pluses and minuses were,” Carter says. “But they were almost all pretty positive.”
Carter’s new 2,500-square foot space is expected to open in September of 2021. Notably, the facility will have a full kitchen.
“It's so important, in my opinion, to have food with wine,” Carter says. “The food makes the wine taste better. The wine makes the food taste better. It’s just an overall better experience.”
When Woodin Creek Village is complete, there will be a half dozen tasting rooms as well as several restaurants. Zeek’s Pizza is already open in the space, that also houses an apartment complex.
Founded in 2004, Brian Carter Cellars has been located in the Hollywood Schoolhouse area since 2006. At that time, the closest wineries were Chateau Ste Michelle and DeLille, both a half mile away. Today there are dozens of tasting rooms within a quarter mile of Brian Carter Cellars, which has made its name over the years focusing on blends.
In the 24 hours since the announcement was made about the new tasting room, Carter says he’s already had 30 people sign up for memberships.
“It’s marching on,” he says. “We’re pretty excited.”
Image courtesy of Brian Carter Cellars.
10 Washington wines from the 2018 vintage guaranteed to blow your hair back
It was a warm growing season but not as hot as years like 2013 through 2015 (read a complete report of the 2018 growing season here). Most importantly, harvest conditions in September and October were ideal, with many winemakers and growers using the same word to describe the weather: perfect.
The early returns on 2018s show the rewards Washington wine lovers can reap, with an abundance of wines guaranteed to blow your hair back.
Let’s start with the Avennia Rhône-style releases. Avennia has firmly established itself in the upper echelon of Washington wineries. The 2018 wines, however, reach another level.
The 2018 Justine, a blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah has everything one could want from a GSM. There’s abundant huckleberry, black raspberry, and black pepper aromas and flavors. But it’s the knee buckling intensity and near endless length of the palate that truly separates this wine. It is quite simply the best Rhône-style blend that I’ve ever had from Washington (Avennia 2018 Justine Yakima Valley $40, 96 points, Cellar Selection).
Next up, the Boushey Vineyard Arnaut Syrah. We all know Boushey Vineyard Syrahs. We all love Boushey Vineyard Syrahs. This is nothing short of the best wine that I have ever had from this esteemed site. It is required reading for anyone who loves Washington wine (Avennia 2018 Arnaut Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $60, 96 points, Cellar Selection).
Meanwhile newcomer Devison Vintners made a series of shockingly good wines in 2018. Malbec is often plump, fleshy, and full of fruit. Imagine that supported by a whole lot of acid and tannin structure along with plenty of earthy accents, and I give you the Southwind Vineyard Malbec (Devison 2018 Southwind Vineyard Malbec Walla Walla Valley $49, 94 points, Cellar Selection).
Devison offers another thrilling wine from Southwind Vineyard, this one a Syrah. Again, we see the impressive acid and tannin structure that this area can offer. This is a wine that absolutely requires extended decanting or four or five years in the cellar minimum before you should go near it (Devison 2018 Crow’s Feet Southwind Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $44, 93 points, Cellar Selection).
There are two additional stunner Rhône-style wines from Devison. The Above the Flood Rhône-style blend also comes from Boushey Vineyard. It’s a rich, hedonistic delight, with plenty of bacon fat, raspberry, herb and mineral aromas and flavors but with more than enough structure to stand them all up (Devison 2018 Above the Flood Yakima Valley $49, 94 points, Editor’s Choice). The Phantom Lamb meanwhile comes from the Royal Slope and Wahluke Slope. It offers aromas of huckleberry, gunsmoke, dark raspberry, olive, crushed rock, and smoked meat followed by blue fruit and game flavors (Devison 2018 Phantom Lamb Syrah Columbia Valley $54, 93 points, Editor’s Choice).
What about the Bordeaux-style wines you ask? Don’t worry. They are coming. The early return Merlots are outrageously good (Mark Ryan 2018 Little Sister Merlot Red Mountain $75, 94 points, Cellar Selection; Passing Time 2018 Champoux Vineyard Merlot Horse Heaven Hills $55, 93 points, Editor’s Choice).
Did someone say Red Willow? Yes, we’ve got that too courtesy of Kerloo Cellars (Kerloo 2018 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $57, 93 points, Editor’s Choice).
First timer Quiddity also got in on the fun in 2018 (Quiddity 2018 Cur Non Mourvèdre Columbia Valley $35 93 points, Editor’s Choice). Look for an upcoming post on this winery's impressive inaugural releases.
Bottom line, 2018 was a vintage for Washington when everything lined up, creating some of the best wines the state has ever produced. See below for more reviews.
***
103 wines reviewed in the February/March issue of Wine Enthusiast.
Airfield Estates 2018 Runway Yakima Valley $32 90 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of cedar, savory herb, soil, orange rind and bittersweet chocolate. Well-balanced flavors follow, showing a pleasing sense of complexity and detail. Coffee and herb notes linger on the finish.Airfield Estates 2019 Chardonnay Yakima Valley $15 88 points
Aromas of cantaloupe, pear and white flower leap out of the glass. Light, zippy kiwi and other tropical flavors follow. It doesn’t necessarily scream Chardonnay but it’s tasty all the same.
Airfield Estates 2019 Founders Series Donald D Miller Chardonnay Yakima Valley $40 88 points
Generous aromas of ripe pear and peach are followed by sleek stone fruit flavors. It doesn’t seem to have fully come into its own.
Airfield Estates 2018 Mustang Yakima Valley $30 88 points
Aromas of tire rubber, raspberry, sea salt and berry are followed by lighter styled flavors. It doesn’t all hang together at present. Perhaps some more time in bottle will pull the pieces together?
Avennia 2018 Justine Yakima Valley $40 96 points
Grenache (61%, Upland) takes the lead in this wine, followed by Mourvèdre (23%, Heart of the Hill) and Syrah (Oldfield). There’s plentiful huckleberry aromas along with notes of black raspberry, dried herb, black pepper, flower, smoked meat and bittersweet chocolate, showing nuance and detail. The palate is swoon-worthy and knee-buckling, bringing depth and balance along with seemingly endless length. It’s shockingly good, with the outrageous balance what separates it. Best from 2022–2027. Cellar Selection
Avennia 2018 Arnaut Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $60 96 points
Coming from one of the state’s top Syrah vineyards, the aromas explode from the glass, with notes of iron, bacon, earth and whiffs of orange peel along with blue and black fruit. Dense, intense rich fruit and savory flavors follow, showing weight and volume. But it’s the exquisite balance that most impresses on this standout wine. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
Avennia 2018 Parapine Grenache Columbia Valley $30 93 points
This wine was fermented in stainless steel and concrete and then aged in neutral oak. Blended with 10% Mourvèdre, initially brooding aromas of raspberry, bramble, white pepper and dried herb lead to an intensely flavored, dense palate. The balance is exquisite, and it has plenty of hang time on the finish. It’s a bit clenched right now but has all the stuffing to go the distance. Give it a healthy decant if drinking in the near term. Editor’s Choice
Basel Cellars 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40 91 points
Locked up tightly out of the gate, cocoa, plum, green pepper and dried herb aromas emerge over time. Focused, soft black currant flavors follow. The appeal is as much about feel as flavor.
Basel Cellars 2017 Malbec Columbia Valley $40 91 points
The aromas draw you in, with notes of plum, huckleberry and whole satsuma. Plush, plump red and blue fruit flavors follow. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s much of what there is to love about the variety.
Basel Cellars 2018 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $40 91 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from Double River and Pheasant Run vineyards. The aromas pop, with notes of raspberry, dried herb and spice. The flavors are rich, silky and layered, showing a hedonistic, high octane style. It has plenty of hang time on the warm finish.
Basel Cellars 2017 Inspired Columbia Valley $55 91 points
The aromas bring notes of dried herb, black cherry, dark chocolate and a sprinkling of sweet barrel spices. The palate is full of class, with rich, dense fruit flavors that are seamless in their creamy feel. Butterscotch notes linger on the warm finish.
Basel Cellars 2017 Merriment Columbia Valley $55 91 points
Jammy red fruit aromas are out front, followed by notes of vanilla and baking spice. Ripe fruit flavors follow with plentiful barrel accents. There’s a lovely sense of texture that ups the appeal. Dried herb and barrel spice notes linger on the finish.
Basel Cellars 2018 Co-ferment McKinley Springs Vineyard Syrah Horse Heaven Hills $50 90 points
The aromas announce themselves with notes of coffee, dark chocolate, huckleberry and spice. Full feeling, high octane blue fruit flavors follow.
Basel Cellars 2016 Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $40 89 points
Much of the fruit from this wine comes from Block 10 at this vineyard. Vanilla, tire rubber, cherry, green pepper and vegetable aromas are followed by creamy feeling fruit and barrel flavors. The aromas and palate don’t quite sync up, but there is still plenty of enjoyment to be had.
Basel Cellars 2017 Claret Columbia Valley $NA 88 points
Raspberry, chocolate, green herb and plentiful oak spices lead to soft, easy drinking fruit flavors. Chocolate notes linger on the finish. It will have broad appeal.
Basel Cellars 2019 Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Columbia Valley $29 87 points
The aromas pop, with notes of kiwi, pineapple and pear. The flavors are tropical fruit driven, light and airy with a sense of freshness. The concentration isn’t all there through the middle, but there’s still plenty of enjoyment to be had.
Battle Creek 2018 Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley $34 89 points
The aromas aren’t ready to reveal themselves out of the gate, with notes of cinnamon, spice and cherry. Puckering cranberry-tart flavors follow, showing some breadth. It’s hard to tell exactly where it’s going at present.
Bergevin Lane 2016 Wild Child Merlot Walla Walla Valley $28 87 points
100% varietal, aromas of chocolate, black licorice, medicine and dark raspberry are followed by plentiful medicinal flavors. There are interesting things going on, but the medicinal impact distracts.
Bergevin Lane 2016 She-Devil Syrah Columbia Valley $26 87 points
Aromas of funk, coffee, dark cherry and spice lead to flavors that paint around the edges. The middle seems missing and the overall concentration light.
Bieler Family 2019 Daisy Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley $12 88 points
The aromas are light but bring some complexity, with notes of apple, pear and the underside of pineapple. Mouthwatering citrus and pear flavors follow. Dried flower notes linger on the finish. Best Buy
Browne Family Vineyards 2017 Skull & Chain Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $20 87 points
Fresh green herb aromas are out front along with satsuma notes. The flavors are light and direct. Decant for best effect.
Callan 2017 Boushey Vineyards Malbec Yakima Valley $38 88 points
Aromas of mortared fresh parsley and other green herbs are out front. Notes of purple fruit and orange rind follow. the palate is light and graceful, with a lightly smoky finish. It’s quite green but brings a sense of freshness.
Callan 2017 Elephant Mountain Merlot Yakima Valley $30 87 points
This wine is still wound up, with reductive notes of nori and dark raspberry. Center-focused, cranberry tart flavors follow. It seems a bit lean and hard to follow.
Castle & Crown 2018 Athryium Red Willow Chapel Block & Black Rock Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $24 91 points
A mix of fruit from Black Rock and Red Willow vineyards, the stem influence is out front initially, with notes of potpourri, dried stem, green olive and asparagus. The palate is flavorful, with a mix of fruit and savory flavors and a whole lot—a whole lot—of acidity backing it all up. Give it time in the decanter and pair it with food to see it at its best. Grilled pork chops should do the trick.
Chelle Bridge 2017 Future Days Red Blend Columbia Valley $38 88 points
This wine is two-thirds Les Collines Vineyard Syrah and one third Stone Tree Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas are hidden out of the gate, with notes of medicine and cherry. The palate is tart, with abundant Robitussin flavors.
Claar 2018 Estate Grown and Bottled White Bluffs Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 88 points
Dark raspberry aromas are out front, along with notes of medicine, cherry cordial and grapefruit rind. The palate is wound up tightly, with the tannins bringing grip and astringency. There are good things going on if they settle in. Give an extended decant if drinking in the near term.
Concentric Wine Project 2019 60/40 Red Blend Wahluke Slope $24 90 points
This is a unique blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Roussanne, released early and recommended drinking with a slight chill. The aromas intrigue, with notes of rhubarb, cherry and cinnamon. The flavors are soft and plump. It delights.
Dance 2018 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $42 90 points
The aromas offer subdued notes of barrel spice, lees, pear and kisses of tropical fruit. A mix of tropical fruit flavors follow. It’s an unabashedly full bodied offering of the variety.
Devison 2018 Southwind Vineyard Malbec Walla Walla Valley $49 94 points
Varietal Malbec is a rarity in the valley. This one is single block, native fermented and saw only 20% new oak. The aromas take some time to get going, but once they do, they bring notes of purple flower, blue fruit and crushed rock. Lipsmacking fruit flavors follow, showing intensity and vibrancy as well as exquisite balance and length. It’s shockingly good, a new style of higher altitude Malbec for Washington with all the goodness that brings. Decant if drinking in the near term. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
Devison 2018 Above the Flood Syrah Yakima Valley $49 94 points
Coming from one of the state’s top sites, Grenache makes up 55% of this wine, with the rest Syrah (37%) and Mourvèdre. Fermented in concrete and stainless steel, it offers a classic Boushey nose of bacon fat, dark raspberry, herb, mineral and earth. There’s plenty of fruit flavors and structure, made in a rich, hedonistic style but with superb balance. Give it a short decant and it delivers the goods. Editor’s Choice
Devison 2018 Phantom Lamb Syrah Columbia Valley $54 93 points
This wine is two-thirds Lawrence Vineyard fruit, with the rest coming from StoneTree. Fermented in concrete and oak uprights, the aromas bring immediate appeal, with notes of huckleberry, gunsmoke, dark raspberry, olive, crushed rock and smoked meat. There’s a beautiful sense of depth, intensity and structure to the blue fruit, citrus and game flavors. A hyperextended finish caps it off. Decant if drinking in the near term. Editor’s Choice
Devison 2018 Crow’s Feet Southwind Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $44 93 points
The aromas announce themselves with notes of huckleberry, thistle, crushed rock, purple flower and bacon fat. The palate is big and burly, absolutely packed full of tannin that gives a firm grip. The acid is also bright. It’s near unapproachable now but has all the stuffing to shine once the tannins settle in. Drink after 2024. Cellar Selection
Elevation Cellars 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 87 points
The aromas offer notes of green herb, cherry, raspberry, medicine and dark chocolate. Medicinal and dried fruit flavors follow, with the tannins showing some astringency. It brings surprisingly tart acids for the vintage.
Elevation Cellars 2019 Imperium Riesling Columbia Valley $20 87 points
The aromas offer notes of flower, ripe peach, lime leaf and dried orange peel. Just a hair off-dry stone fruit flavors follow. Lime notes linger on the finish. Impressive acid backs it up. The flavor concentration doesn’t seem all there at times, but what is pleases.
Elevation Cellars 2013 Merlot Columbia Valley $29 85 points
Aromas of fruit leather, barnyard and hay are followed by dried out seeming fruit flavors.
Fielding Hills 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $46 91 points
This is almost all varietal, with smidges of Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Malbec rounding it out. Roasted coffee bean aromas are out front, followed by notes of cherry, raspberry and bountiful spices. Full bodied, smooth coffee flavors follow, lingering on the finish. Tasty stuff.
Fielding Hills 2017 Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope $40 91 points
Light aromas of roasted coffee bean and char are followed by pleasing dried herb accents and dark fruit notes. The flavors are ripe and soft but still sleek, with plentiful dark chocolate accents.
Fielding Hills 2017 Estate Riverbend Vineyard Malbec Wahluke Slope $42 91 points
Dark roasted coffee bean aromas are out front, followed by notes of dark chocolate and spice. The spice and dark fruit flavors are plump, soft and generous. The fruit brings a compelling sense of freshness.
Fielding Hills 2017 Tribute Red Blend Wahluke Slope $40 91 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 57% of this wine, with the rest Syrah. The aromas bring notes of raspberry gummy, dried herb, dark chocolate and barrel spice. Coffee and cherry flavors follow, with dark chocolate and mocha notes lingering on the finish. It brings a lot of hedonism.
Fielding Hills 2017 Syrah Wahluke Slope $42 90 points
Roasted coffee bean, char and dark chocolate aromas are at the fore. The palate brings sumptuousness, but also deftness, showing pleasing detail. A warm finish caps it off.
Goose Ridge 2018 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40 92 points
Aromas of raspberry, kirsch and assorted barrel spices carry the nose. The plum and dark fruit flavors are plush on the palate, with density, layering and richness, but there’s plenty of acidity and tannic structure to tie it all together. Blackberry notes linger on the finish. The tannins bring some grip right now. Best after 2024. Editor’s Choice
Goose Ridge 2018 Vireo Red Blend Columbia Valley $42 91 points
This wine is a blend of 38% Syrah, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. The aromas suggest notes of anise, dark cherry, plum and spice. Bountiful dark-fruit flavors follow, with the tannins giving a gentle squeeze. It gives the bounty of fruit and acid that 2018 offers. Editor’s Choice
Gorman 2019 The Devil Makes Three Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $22 90 points
All of the fruit for this wine comes from the Horse Heaven Hills. Blended with 25% Malbec, Cabernet’s more savory side is on display initially, with notes of savory herb, green pepper, blood orange and plum. Plum and blue fruit flavors follow. There is great stuffing, but it needs some additional time to settle into the bottle. Best after 2021.
Grosgrain 2018 XL Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 92 points
This wine was fermented 25% whole cluster and aged in puncheon (50% new). The aromas pop in notes of flower, herb and plum. The flavors are fresh and light, with plentiful coffee accents. It brings a compelling sense of intensity, freshness and balance. Editor’s Choice
Grosgrain 2019 French Creek Vineyard Grenache Yakima Valley $36 91 points
This young wine is bright and fresh, with an emphasis on juicy fruit. Aged briefly in neutral oak before release, the aromas are up front in notes of raspberry and cherry. The fruit flavors dance lightly on the palate, bringing a sense of freshness. Editor’s Choice
Grosgrain 2019 Mourvèdre Walla Walla Valley $36 91 points
A young, low alcohol wine released early, this is not your typical Mourvèdre. Plum, raspberry, stem and herb aromas show a compelling sense of freshness. The palate is light and bright, putting an emphasis on purity ahead of intensity. It needs food with it to be fully appreciated. Pair it with grilled lamb.
Grosgrain 2019 Skin Contact Les Collines Vineyard Sémillon Walla Walla Valley $28 90 points
This is a rare example of this variety fermented on skins for 14 days. Aged in a mixture of clay amphora, concrete egg, neutral oak and stainless steel, the aromas are reserved but intriguing, with notes of lime, mineral, clay and herb. Tart, sleek flavors follow, with citrus notes lingering on the finish. The feel and the acidity bring much of the appeal. Pair it with clams in a shallot-wine wine broth.
Kerloo 2018 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $57 93 points
A rare 100% varietal offering from this vineyard, the aromas offer notes of raspberry compote, red plum and Twizzler. A plump, rounded palate follows, showing depth but also grace. There’s plenty of acid structure to stand it all up. It’s outright delicious, winning on grace rather than sheer power. Editor’s Choice
Kerloo 2018 Upland Vineyard Grenache Snipes Mountain $40 92 points
The aromas leap up, with notes of potpourri, orange rind, Jolly Rancher and smoked meat. The palate is light on its feel, made in an elegant, transparent style, but still with richness and depth. It has plenty of hang time on the finish—an achingly pure look at this site and variety. Editor’s Choice
Kerloo 2018 Lonesome Springs Ranch Grenache Yakima Valley $48 92 points
All aged in neutral oak, plum, cherry and thistle aromas are followed by rounded, pure, vivid fruit flavors. It shows depth and detail along with great purity, sticking around on the finish. Editor’s Choice
Kerloo 2018 The General Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $48 92 points
A mixture of old block Bacchus (62%) and Dionysus vineyards, this 100% varietal wine was aged in 75% new oak. The barrel notes are still primary on this young wine at present, with notes of vanilla, cigar box and nougat. Over time they give way to cherry, The palate shows a lot of grace and polish, commanding as the name suggests but far from a big bruiser.
Kerloo 2018 Stone Tree Vineyard Malbec Wahluke Slope $40 91 points
100% varietal, dried herb, satsuma, graphite and plum aromas are followed by lighter styled plum, blue fruit and blood orange flavors. It brings plenty of purity and elegance. Editor’s Choice
Kerloo 2018 Red Willow Vineyard Malbec Yakima Valley $95 91 points
This wine is a treat! 100% varietal, all in magnum. Plentiful aromas of plum and dried herb lead to elegant, streamlined plum flavors. It brings freshness, vibrancy and intensity, always remaining light on its feet.
Kerloo 2018 Dionysus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $32 90 points
This is all Cabernet, with a healthy amount (25%) coming from esteemed Red Willow and the Dionysus fruit coming from block D14. The aromas bring notes of cocoa, dried and cherry. There’s a lovely sense of brightness and deftness to the cherry and cocoa flavors.
Klipsun 2017 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $150 93 points
French oak aromas are out front, with notes of dark roasted coffee bean, chocolate and toffee, along with cigar box accents. On the palate, the fruit is bright and juicy, exquisitely balanced, with an interplay of chocolate and spice barrel notes. It hangs on the finish. There’s a pleasing sense of texture to it all. It needs time for the oak to integrate and the tannins to unwind. Best after 2025. Cellar Selection
Lone Birch 2019 Chardonnay Yakima Valley $11 88 points
The aromas jump up, with notes of green cantaloupe, kiwi, pineapple and pear. A fruit-filled palate follows. It drinks more like a tropical Pinot Gris than Chardonnay but still delivers plenty of enjoyment. Best Buy
Lone Birch 2019 Estate Grown Riesling Yakima Valley $11 88 points
This wine is vibrantly aromatic, with notes of jasmine, honeysuckle, white peach and dried rose petal. Plentiful off-dry Nestea Iced Tea flavors follow, with abundant acidity to stand it up. The finish carries. Best Buy
Lone Birch 2019 Rosé Yakima Valley $11 87 points
Quite dark in color, the aromas bring notes of lemongrass, watermelon and cherry. Medium bodied, just off-dry kiwi and Jolly Rancher (cherry and watermelon) flavors follow. The color is a bit off-putting but the aromas and flavors deliver plenty of enjoyment. Best Buy
Lydian 2018 GSM Columbia Valley $25 92 points
This wine is 38% Grenache, 31% Syrah and 31% Mourvèdre. The aromas are fruit forward, with notes of dark raspberry, orange peel, bramble, plum and Rainier cherry. The plum flavors are fresh and pure, with a lovely texture. Coffee and spice notes linger on the finish. It’s thoroughly delicious. Editor’s Choice
Lydian 2018 Syrah Columbia Valley $25 92 points
The aromas leap up, with notes of dark raspberry, black plum, smoked meat and whiffs of medicine. Rich flavors follow, with a silky feel upping the interest. It’s guaranteed enjoyment. Give it a short decant. Editor’s Choice
Lydian 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25 91 points
Aromas of café au lait and cocoa powder are followed by notes of freshly chopped herb and cherry. Big, bold but still in check fruit flavors follow, with plentiful spice accents throughout. Coffee notes linger on the long finish.It shows rare balance for a wine at this price. Editor’s Choice
Lydian 2018 Merlot Columbia Valley $25 90 points
The aromas bring notes of savory herb and cherry, showing freshness and vitality. The flavors are plump and ripe. Coffee notes linger on the finish. Give a short decant if drinking in the near term and it will deliver on the goods. Editor’s Choice
Mark Ryan 2018 Little Sister Merlot Red Mountain $75 94 points
Generous aromas of plum, raspberry, mocha, spice and flecks of herb are followed by layered, outrageously delicious fruit flavors. There’s plenty of midpalate richness and depth but also freshness. It hangs on for a long time on the finish. Give it time in the cellar to see it at its best. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
Nelms Road 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25 91 points
The aromas aren’t ready to express themselves initially, with notes of fresh herb, black currant and plum. The flavors, on the other hand, are in full bloom, palate coating and velvety, with the enjoyment equal parts feel and flavor. It’s made in a very approachable style but will do will with some time in the cellar as well. Editor’s Choice
Nine Hats 2018 Red Blend Columbia Valley $20 91 points
The aromas of this wine are engaging in notes of cherry cordial, dark chocolate shavings, raspberry and barrel spice. Rich coffee and cherry flavors follow on the full-bodied palate while a café au lait note lingers on the lengthy finish. Editor’s Choice
Nine Hats 2018 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley $14 88 points
Aromas of apple, pear and apple skin are followed by broad feeling kiwi and pineapple flavors. It brings plenty of appeal.
North by Northwest 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $55 87 points
Subdued aromas of cocoa, cranberry and cherry are followed by pulled back fruit flavors that paint around the edges. The concentration seems quite light and the tannins bunched up. It seems to be in an odd spot.
North by Northwest 2016 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $40 86 points
The barrel aromas are out front, with notes of baking spice and vanilla. The fruit flavors are light and can’t stand up to them. There’s nice bright acids but not enough fruit for them to support.
Palencia 2018 Grenache Yakima Valley $40 89 points
The aromas are red fruit driven, with notes of raspberry and red cherry. The flavors are light and elegant, with a lovely sense of purity.
Palencia 2019 Albariño Ancient Lakes $22 89 points
Melon and apple aromas lead to lightly spritzy, full feeling pineapple flavors backed by zippy acidity. There’s much to enjoy.
Palencia 2018 El Viñador Syrah Red Mountain $40 88 points
Raspberry aromas are up front. Soft fruit flavors follow. The heat of the region seems to have carried it away a bit.
Pamplin 2017 Red IQ Columbia Valley $15 90 points
Aromas of smoke, plum and cherry are followed by a well-balanced, plump fruit flavors. There’s plenty of acid and tannin to back them up—a lot of value to be had. Decant if drinking in the near term. Best Buy
Passing Time 2018 Champoux Vineyard Merlot Horse Heaven Hills $55 93 points
Fruit for this wine comes from one of the top sites in Washington. There’s immediacy to the aromas of plum, blueberry, dried herb and chocolate. The palate brings plenty of density and intensity through the middle of the cherry and blood orange flavors. It lingers for a long time on the finish, kicking it up a notch. There’s a whole lot of structure there. It’s a complete delight with a big time yum factor. Editor’s Choice
Pursued by Bear 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $70 92 points
This wine is hedonism in a glass. Dark chocolate, cherry, vanilla and spice aromas are followed by rich, textured fruit flavors that coat the palate. It’s decadent, but the vintage’s backbone keeps it all beautifully in balance. Editor’s Choice
Pursued by Bear 2017 Twin Bear Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $80 91 points
A project from actor Kyle MacLachlin, this is the winery’s first Walla Walla Valley designated wine. The aromas bring notes of butterscotch, vanilla, cherry, baking spice and dried herb. Opulent, fleshy feeling flavors follow. It lingers on the finish, with fruit and barrel playing equal parts—a thoroughly enchanting wine. The acid of the vintage ties it all together.
Quiddity 2018 Cur Non Mourvèdre Columbia Valley $35 93 points
This is an inaugural release from this winery, and it commands attention. The aromas bring notes of yellow raspberry, rose hips, herb and red plum. The purity of the flavors and the texture are completely arresting, drinking like a bowl of fresh fruit. It’s a complete knockout. Editor’s Choice
Quiddity 2018 Ubuntu Grenache Rattlesnake Hills $35 93 points
There’s no mistaking the variety, with its supremely pure aromas of black raspberry, herb, crushed rock and blood orange. The palate brings grace, purity and polish to its layered, textured fruit flavors. It sings from the mountain tops. Editor’s Choice
Quiddity 2018 Amore Columbia Valley $35 92 points
This inaugural release from the winery is a blend of 62% Syrah, 23% Mourvèdre and 15% Grenache. Aromas of plum, cherry and dried herb lead to a sumptuous, layered palate. Editor’s Choice
Quiddity 2018 Audentes Syrah Rattlesnake Hills $35 92 points
An inaugural release, the aromas aren’t ready to reveal their charms on first pour. Red fruit, plum, bramble, blood orange and dried herb notes emerge over time. The palate is rich, textured, layered and ripe but still well in check, with orange peel notes on the finish. The purity of it all captivates. Editor’s Choice
Sail to Trail WineWorks 2017 Cuvée 4 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $20 86 points
The aromas provide notes of green herb, campfire smoke, spearmint, orange peel and plum, seeming quite underripe. The palate is soft, light, savory and citrusy, pulling up short.
Sail to Trail WineWorks 2017 Chardonnay Yakima Valley $20 86 points
The aromas bring notes of canned corn along with canned pineapple and mango. Tropical fruit flavors follow, though they are considerably lighter in style than the aromas would suggest. A menthol note lingers on the finish. The acid seems out of balance with the flavors.
Spring Valley Vineyard 2017 Estate Grown Uriah Walla Walla Valley $60 92 points
Merlot makes up 60% of this wine, with the balance Cabernet Franc (39%) and a pinch of Petit Verdot. It’s locked up out of the gate, with aromas of dusty earth, raspberry and orange peel. Smooth, velvety flavors follow. It’s made in a reserved style, showing lots of class and sophistication. Editor’s Choice
Spring Valley Vineyard 2017 Estate Grown Derby Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $60 92 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of apple, dusty earth, bittersweet chocolate, green herb and cigar box. The flavors are pleasingly reserved, bringing a sense of polish, class and freshness. There’s sneaky density to the fruit. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
Spring Valley Vineyard 2017 Estate Grown Viognier Walla Walla Valley $35 89 points
Examples of this variety are rare in Walla Walla Valley. Effusive aromas of pear, white peach and flower aromas are followed by ripe but initially compact peach flavors. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery.
Spring Valley Vineyard 2017 Estate Grown Nina Lee Syrah Walla Walla Valley $60 88 points
The aromas of mushroom, herb and black tea aren’t fully in harmony. The palate is fleet of foot, bringing an odd mix of overripe and underripe elements.
Spring Valley Vineyard 2017 Estate Grown Mule Skinner Merlot Walla Walla Valley $60 88 points
Red apple, raspberry, spice and cherry aromas are followed by lighter styled flavors. It seems to straddle the middle, not sure which way it wants to go.
Succession 2019 L&R Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Ancient Lakes $30 87 points
Coming from Famiglia Vineyards, aromas of honeycomb, lees and mineral lead to fleshy fruit flavors. It’s more intrigue than delivery.
The Walls 2018 The Ramparts Red Mountain $38 92 points
Mourvédre makes up 47% of this wine, with the rest Syrah (22%), Grenache (18%) and Counoise. The aromas are compelling, with notes of raspberry compote, pomegranate, whole red cherry, orange peel and dried herb. The red fruit flavors are rich but retain a sense of grace and purity, along with plenty of good old fashioned yum. A warm finish caps it off. Editor’s Choice
The Walls 2018 Stanley Groovy Red Blend Red Mountain $30 92 points
This is an intriguing blend of 32% Touriga Nacional, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Syrah, 13% Grenache, and 12% Tinta Cão, along with bits of Souzão and Cinsault. Aromas of cocoa, black raspberry, satsuma, plum and herb flavors are followed by beautifully balanced, restrained but still plentiful fruit flavors. It brings a lot of flat out enjoyment. Editor’s Choice
The Walls 2018 Wonderful Nightmare Stoney Vine Vineyard Tempranillo Walla Walla Valley $48 88 points
A Rocks District offering, the aromas bring notes of dried tobacco, dried orange rind and flower. The palate is a somewhat lighter, juicy style than the aromas would suggest.
Walla Walla Vintners 2017 Sagemoor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $50 91 points
Coming from 1972 plantings at this esteemed vineyard, brooding aromas of savory herb, green pepper and bittersweet chocolate are followed by flavors that show pleasing elegance and nuance. It’s a very pretty offering of the variety, with a fine sense of acid and tannin structure.
Walla Walla Vintners 2018 Red Blend Columbia Valley $24 90 points
Pleasing aromas of plum and dried herb lead to a fruitful, plush palate. There’s a nice yum factor to the sumptuous fruit flavors.
Walla Walla Vintners 2017 Vineyard Select Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $50 90 points
There’s plenty of interest on the aromas, with notes of cedar, mushroom, raspberry, coffee and anise. Light, fresh, juicy flavors follow. The tannins give a light squeeze. It puts a premium on elegance, with the fruit pulled back. There’s a surprising amount of acidity.
Walla Walla Vintners 2017 Cut Bank Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley $50 89 points
The aromas start out light and elusive, with notes of coffee, mushroom and spice. The flavors start out similarly reserved, fleshing out over time. It has impressive acidity. Best after 2024.
Wanaka 2011 Syrah Columbia Valley $69 90 points
This wine was bottled in 2015 and was given an additional five years in bottle prior to release. Coming from the state’s coolest vintage on record, it is still lively, in a sweet spot. Aromas of coconut, baking spice and dried dark fruit are followed by a smooth palate, full of nougat flavors. Drink now.
Wanaka 2011 Wheedles and Thread Red Wallula Vineyard Columbia Valley $95 89 points
This is a blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc, with the rest equal parts Petit Verdot and Malbec. Bottled in 2014 and held back until release in 2020, bittersweet chocolate, cedar, dried herb and anise aromas are followed by mesquite and chocolate flavors. It trails on the finish.
Wanaka 2012 Wallula Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $38 88 points
Pale gold in color, this wine was aged 16 months sur lie. The aromas bring notes of musk, lemon curd, nut and lees. It’s thick, almost viscous, in feel, showing its age but still holding quite well.
Wanaka 2011 Sangiovese Columbia Valley $46 87 points
Aged 22 months in American oak before being bottled in 2014 and given an additional five-plus years in bottle, barrel forward aromas of baking spice, coffee, vanilla and char are followed by lighter styled dill flavors. The oak overrides the fruit.
Woodward Canyon 2019 Chardonnay Washington $44 92 points
This wine is mostly estate fruit, along with a dash (13%) from Celilo Vineyard’s 1980 plantings. The aromas pull you in, with notes of pear, yellow apple, star fruit and kisses of pineapple and spice, showing an appealing purity. The palate has concentration and richness, but also exquisite balance and dexterity. Lemony notes persist on the finish. The acid balance is spot on, and as always with this producer, it’s all about grace and subtlety. Give it some additional time in bottle to see it at its best. Editor’s Choice
Woodward Canyon 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $49 92 points
It’s wound up out of the gate, with aromas of spice, dark chocolate and cherry. Opulent cherry flavors follow but there’s plenty of balance to them. Some green notes linger on the finish. It needs time to show its best. Enjoy after 2025.
Woodward Canyon 2018 Estate Merlot Walla Walla Valley $52 92 points
This wine is still settling into its skin. The aromas initially bring notes of freshly mortared green herbs, cherry and raspberry. Silky flavors follow with plenty of tannic heft. The stuffing is all there, but it needs time to come into its own. But when it does? Ooh. Best after 2023. Cellar Selection
Woodward Canyon 2019 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay Walla Walla Valley $32 91 points
This Chardonnay saw no new oak and had minimal malolactic fermentation. The aromas are all about subtlety with its notes of spice, apple and Bosc pear. The flavors are full of grace and balance, bringing vibrancy and freshness. Editor’s Choice
Woodward Canyon 2019 Estate Sauvignon Blanc Walla Walla Valley $29 88 points
This wine isn’t quite ready to reveal itself aromatically, with notes of lemon balm, melon and dried rose petal. The palate is light on its feet, with plenty of acidity backing it up.