Wine Enthusiast Reviews for October 2020

Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for October 2020. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read information on how I review wines here. Read about the Wine Enthusiast rating system here. Read about how to interpret my scores hereAll of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying GuideSee previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast's on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.


Located in the Columbia Gorge, Cor Cellars has long been making some of Washington’s most distinctive wines. The winery’s Ago offerings, however, which focus on Columbia Gorge fruit, take things to another level, from Tocai Fruilano to Pinot Noir to sparklers (Ago 2019 Cor Estate Vineyard Tocai Friulano Columbia Gorge $32, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Ago 2019 Estate Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Gorge $28, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Ago 2019 Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge $32 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Ago 2019 Sparkling Blend Columbia Gorge $29, 90 points, Editor’s Choice).

I did an extensive write up a while back on the Avennia 2018 La Perle ($40, 94 points, Editor’s Choice) on my Washington Wine Report Facebook page, but I will briefly summarize here. 2018 was an exceptionally strong vintage for Washington whites. Additionally, this wine contains a healthy amount of WeatherEye Vineyard fruit, one of the most exciting spots in the state. The result is one of the most stunning Washington whites I’ve ever tasted. It only ramps up in intensity with time open.

Cairdeas has long been making thrilling Rhône-style wines, and recent releases continue that trend (Cairdeas 2017 Trí Yakima Valley $42, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Cairdeas 2017 Caisleán an Pápa Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley $45, 92 points; Cairdeas 2017 Consonance Yakima Valley $42, 92 points, Editor’s Choice).

However, Cairdeas also had a couple releases in 2020 on the cutting edge, including two varieties that are brand new to the state (Cairdeas 2019 Picardan Lake Chelan $30, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Cairdeas 2018 Brut Nature Sparkling Wine Clairette Blanche Lake Chelan $50, 91 points, Editor’s Choice). These wines were microproduced and sold out instantaneously, but look for the subsequent releases later this year. Other Cairdeas whites well worth your attention include Cairdeas 2019 Marsanne Yakima Valley ($30, 91 points, Editor’s Choice) and Cairdeas 2019 Nellie Mae Lawrence Vineyard Columbia Valley ($24, 90 points).

Devison Vintners is one of Washington’s true underground producers. The winery does not at present have a tasting room, and COVID-19 has made their retail presence less than it might be otherwise. But these are extraordinary wines.

Winemaker Peter Devison previously made his mark at Precept, EFESTE, and Cadaretta. His inaugural reds under his own name command attention. The wines have plenty of power and intensity but also impressive balance (Devison 2018 Beneath the Stones Syrah Walla Walla Valley $49, 93 points, Editor’s Choice; Devison 2018 GPR Columbia Valley $29, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Devison 2019 Boushey Vineyard Rosé Yakima Valley $24, 92 points, Editor’s Choice). Look for reviews of other Devison offerings in upcoming issues. 

Leonetti Cellar’s legacy in Washington wine has long been assured. We all know the story. In 1977, Gary Figgins and his wife Nancy established the winery as the first in Walla Walla Valley, where there are now more than 130 wineries and tasting rooms. The winery's history of excellence is unquestionable. 

But this is far from a winery standing still. Leonetti recently began offering a new series of vineyard designated wines that are some of the most stunning offerings coming out of Washington. They are also some of the most ageworthy (Leonetti Cellar 2017 Loess Walla Walla Valley $138, 96 pointsCellar Selection; Leonetti Cellar 2017 Mill Creek Upland Walla Walla Valley $138, 95 points, Cellar Selection; Leonetti Cellar 2017 Serra Pedace Walla Walla Valley $138, 94 points, Cellar Selection; Leonetti Cellar 2017 Holy Roller Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $138, 93 points, Cellar Selection). Leonetti's 2017 reserve wine is also one for the ages (Leonetti Cellar 2017 Reserve Walla Walla Valley $150, 96 points, Cellar Selection).

We all talk a lot about Rocks District Syrahs, and deservedly so. This region is capable of creating some of the very best wines on the planet. To wit, see reviews for the 2017 CayuseHorsepowerNo Girls, and La Rata wines below.

However, Reynvaan Family Vineyards has quietly been making an argument for the area’s potential to make top quality white wines as well (Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2018 Estate White In the Rocks Vineyard Grenache Blanc Walla Walla Valley $60, 93 points, Editor’s Choice; Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Queen’s Road In the Rocks Vineyard Estate Walla Walla Valley $65, 93 points, Editor’s Choice). Additionally, I keep wondering how long Reynvaan can craft unique, swoonworthy wines from their Foothills in the Sun Vineyard before other wineries take notice and plant in that area (Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Foothills Reserve Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $85, 94 points, Editor’s Choice; Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 In the Hills Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $80, 94 points, Editor’s Choice).

Boushey Vineyard lovers, and I know you are out there, make sure to check out the current offering from Forgeron Cellars (Forgeron 2018 Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $45, 92 points, Editor’s Choice).

On the value side, the Chateau Ste Michelle Horse Heaven Hills Sauvignon Blanc is flat out delicious (Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Horse Heaven Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills $15, 91 points, Best Buy). The Ste Michelle and Dr. Loosen 2018 Eroica only gets more impressive with time open Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2018 Eroica Riesling Columbia Valley $20, 91 points, Editor’s Choice).

A lot more top wines below, including a number that made my 40 Most Exciting Washington Wines of 2020 list.

Without further ado.

215 wines reviewed in the October issue of Wine Enthusiast.

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Ago 2019 Cor Estate Vineyard Tocai Friulano Columbia Gorge $32 92 points
This is a new variety within the state, and what a debut. All fermented in neutral oak, fresh aromas of pear, tangerine, mineral, citrus and flower yield exquisitely pure flavors, with high-wire lemony acidity connecting it all together. A gorgeous wine, its sense of vibrancy separates it. Editor’s Choice

Ago 2019 Estate Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Gorge $28 92 points
Aromas of melon, citrus rind, crushed rock, sweet herb, grapefruit and whiffs of pineapple lead to tart and lively squeezed lemon flavors, with mouthwatering acidity. A long finish caps it off. A complete delight, it practically demands oysters alongside it. Give it a bit of additional time in bottle or decant. Editor’s Choice

Ago 2019 Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge $32 91 points
Composed of Pinot Noir, this lightly bronze-colored wine (with a touch of pink) brings appealing aromas of brioche and strawberry. The flavors deliver a jolt of electric acidity that commands attention. Lemon-rind flavors linger on the finish. It’s an acid hound’s delight. Editor’s Choice

Ago 2019 Sparkling Blend Columbia Gorge $29 90 points
Coming in at an alcohol level unheard of in the state, this wine is 85% Gewürztraminer, with the rest Pinot Gris. From a mixture of Oak Ridge and Dragonfly vineyards, the aromas bring plenty of appeal, with notes of lemon rind, ginger, flower and pink grapefruit. Bright acidity enlivens the light palate. Editor’s Choice

Avennia 2018 La Perle Columbia Valley $40 94 points
Roussanne makes up 65% of this wine, with the rest Marsanne. Fruit comes from Sagemoor, stalwart Boushey and, notably newcomer WeatherEye. It is a revelation. Appealing aromas of almond, corn silk, custard, stone fruit and spice lead to a full-bodied richly textured palate, brightened by lively acidity and heightened by a hyperextended finish. It’s a benchmark wine for the state—nothing short of an accomplishment. Editor’s Choice

Avennia 2018 Oliane Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley $28 92 points
Boushey fruit makes up two-thirds of this wine, with the rest from equally esteemed Red Willow Vineyard. Barrel fermented with native yeast, the aromas are brooding, with notes of lemon pith, mineral, graham cracker, pink grapefruit and flower. The palate brings texture, nervy acidity, richness and deftness to the citrus and tropical-fruit flavors. Kiwi notes linger on the finish. It’s a unique wine for the state. Best enjoyed with additional time in bottle. Best from 2023–2026. Cellar Selection

Avennia 2017 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills $50 92 points
This wine comes from a vineyard best known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, making this a hidden secret. It brings swoon-worthy aromas of scorched earth, whole green pepper, coffee, cherry and spice, showing nuance. The palate shows a classical, Bordelaise styling to its cherry and coffee flavors that sail off into the distance, further than the eye can see. The texture only ups the appeal. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection

Avennia 2019 L’Egérie Rosé Columbia Valley $28 92 points
Grenache (70%) makes up the heart of this wine, with the rest Mourvèdre. Coming from Upland and Heart of the Hill vineyards respectively, the aromas offer notes of strawberry, mineral, sweet herb and a whiff of orange zest. The palate is fuller in style, bringing a sense of weight, texture and seriousness, while possessing more than enough acidity to keep it all together. It shows impressive length. Give it a short decant. Editor’s Choice

Be Human 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé Horse Heaven Hills $16 88 points
A pretty pale-peach color, the aromas are forward, with notes of watermelon, ripe strawberry and herb. Plentiful kiwi flavors follow. It’s a charmer.

Browne Family Vineyards 2017 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley $20 88 points
Bright aromas of peppermint, herb and dried orange peel lead to light, juicy flavors on the palate. The mouthwatering acidity brings a pleasing focus to the fruit.

Browne Family Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $35 87 points
The fruit seems to have overripened here, revealing notes of dried fig, date and anise. The palate pulls it off better, with creamy vanilla and other barrel flavors but doesn’t have the fruit to match the oak.

Cairdeas 2019 Picardan Lake Chelan $30 92 points
This is the first bottling in the state of this variety. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of lime zest, whole tangerine, lemon and schist. Puckering, sleek, high-acid lemon and lime flavors follow. Editor’s Choice

Cairdeas 2017 Trí Yakima Valley $42 92 points
This wine is 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Grenache, with the fruit coming mostly from Boushey Vineyard. Aromas of berry, mineral, blueberry, black pepper, stem and earth are followed by palate-coating, pure, elegant flavors backed by tart acidity. It’s lovely, with a very long life ahead of it. Editor’s Choice

Cairdeas 2017 Caisleán an Pápa Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley $45 92 points
This wine is 30% each Grenache and Syrah, followed by 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault and 10% Counoise. Coming from one of the most accomplished vineyards in the state, it was all aged in 500-liter puncheons. The aromas are brooding, with notes of raspberry, earth, herb, black pepper, and blueberry. The flavors are reserved in style and show a pleasing sense of purity. Black-pepper notes linger on the finish. It’s all about sophistication, bringing it in abundance.

Cairdeas 2017 Consonance Yakima Valley $42 92 points
Petit Sirah makes up 38% of this wine, followed by Syrah (37%), Mourvèdre (13%) and Alicante Bouchet (12%). Heaping amounts of black pepper are the opening hand of the aromas, followed by notes of plum, blue fruit, ground granite and whiffs of smoke. Beautifully balanced fruit flavors follow, with the black-pepper-filled finish sailing off into the distance. Editor’s Choice

Cairdeas 2018 Brut Nature Sparkling Wine Clairette Blanche Lake Chelan $50 91 points
This is the first varietally designated offering in the state. Coming from the winery’s estate vineyard, the aromas offer notes of baked bread, citrus peel and lemon. Bright, tart citrus flavors follow, bringing a sense of freshness and a strong sense of acidity and precision. Editor’s Choice

Cairdeas 2018 Diffraction Yakima Valley $18 91 points
Syrah makes up 62% of this wine, with the rest bits of Mourvèdre, Petit Sirah, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan, Alicante Bouchet and Counoise. The aromas pop, with notes of blueberry pie, raspberry, bacon fat, herb, stem and berry, showing a piercing sense of purity. The blue-fruit flavors are achingly pure. Smoked meat notes linger on the finish. It shows a lot of staying power. Editor’s Choice

Cairdeas 2018 Concrete Syrah Columbia Valley $45 91 points
This is all Joseph Phelps clone Syrah, aged in concrete egg. The aromas are reserved out of the gate, with notes of blue fruit, herb and mineral. Beautifully pure, sleek flavors follow. Orange-peel notes linger on the finish. It’s a very pretty offering of this variety. Editor’s Choice

Cairdeas 2019 Marsanne Yakima Valley $30 91 points
Blended with 16% Roussanne from Lawrence Vineyard with the rest of the fruit coming from famed Boushey, this wine was fermented in concrete and then aged in stainless steel and new French oak. The aromas are brooding out of the gate, with notes of lemon balm, almond and crushed rock. The palate is medium bodied and seamless in feel. It brings a whole lot of acidity for this variety. Editor’s Choice

Cairdeas 2019 Nellie Mae Lawrence Vineyard Columbia Valley $24 90 points
Viognier makes up two-thirds of this wine, with the rest Roussanne. Bright aromas of lemon zest, mineral and ripe peach are followed by textured, almost viscous feeling full-bodied fruit flavors. Melon notes linger on the finish.

Cairdeas 2017 Cinsault Yakima Valley $36 89 points
Blended with 25% Petite Sirah, the aromas intrigue, with notes of raspberry, cherry, milk and whiffs of blue fruit. The palate is fruit forward, light and elegant, with a pleasing sense of tartness. It’s a very pretty offering. It doesn’t quite stand up on its own but would do well paired with roasted pork loin.

Cairdeas 2017 Carignan Yakima Valley $34 88 points
Blended with 25% Counoise, this wine is light in color and offers aromas of tire rubber, smoke and red berry, with the reduction clearing up with some time open. It’s made in a light, graceful style. Lightly smoky flavors linger on the finish. There are good things happening if the reduction clears up.

Catman 2017 Zinfandel Columbia Valley (OR) $32 87 points
Caramel, char, toasty barrel-spice and cherry aromas lead to ripe red-fruit and coffee flavors that are light through the middle. The variety seems hard to find.

Catman 2018 Reserve Barbera Columbia Valley (OR) $42 87 points
Aromas of plum, asphalt, mineral and dried herb lead to medium-bodied, fruitful cranberry and raspberry flavors, with a tangy warm finish. The acidity keeps the interest up, though the warmth is a bit distracting.

Cayuse 2017 Wallah Wallah Special #11 Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $175 95 points
There no mistaking that this comes from the stones of Walla Walla Valley, with its outrageous aromas of funk, earth, black pepper, peat, black olive tapenade, charcuterie plate, sea breeze and potpourri—an aromatic tour de force. A silky, plush, savory, earthy palate follows, full of saline and charcuterie notes. The supremely long, intensely rich finish grabs you and shakes you, kicking it up a notch. Editor’s Choice

Cayuse 2017 Bionic Frog Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $115 95 points
The aromas start off reserved and then ramp up intensity, with notes of peat, black pepper, crushed flower, soot and charcuterie. The flavors are intense but far from full throttle, showing a mesmerizing sense of restraint to the savory and potpourri notes. A lingering finish caps it off. Editor’s Choice

Cayuse 2018 Edith Grenache Armada Vineyard Rosé Walla Walla Valley (OR) $50 94 points
Pale copper in color, this wine smells like it is a bowl of wet stones, sprinkled with bits of dried strawberry, dried orange peel and lime zest—thoroughly fascinating. Fresh, focused, vibrant flavors follow, showing depth, intensity, detail, texture and purity. Stone and strawberry notes linger on the finish. It’s a little sip of rosé nirvana. Editor’s Choice

Cayuse 2017 God Only Knows Red Wine Armada Vineyard Walla Walla Valley (OR) $103 94 points
Floral aromas rise up, with notes of potpourri, Stargazer lily and violet followed by notes of fire pit, sea breeze and charcuterie. It’s palate shaking in intensity while also bringing a sense of delicacy. Floral notes linger on the hyperextended finish. What a wine. You could just smell it and be completely satisfied. Editor’s Choice

Cayuse 2017 Widowmaker En Chamberlain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley (OR) $100 94 points
The aromas offer beguiling, complex notes of funk, cedar, plum, moist earth and black currant. Intensely pure, ripe, dense, palate-coating flavors follow, showing impressive staying power. It’s an outrageously pleasurable wine—a textbook example of what Cabernet can achieve in this sub-appellation of the valley. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection

Cayuse 2017 Camaspelo Red Blend Walla Walla Valley (OR) $90 93 points
Appealing aromas of green pepper, cherry, fresh herb, saline and moist earth are followed by concentrated, focused, pillowy-soft cherry flavors. It brings a compelling sense of purity and freshness, with mouthwatering acidity seldom seen from this area. It’s a complete standout. Editor’s Choice

Cayuse 2017 En Chamberlain Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $90 93 points
The aromas jump out of the glass, with notes of earthy funk, heaping amounts of wet stone, butcher shop, smoke, black pepper and salami. Earth-shaking fruit and savory flavors follow. A light medicinal streak runs through it. It’s a primer on what this estate is all about. Editor’s Choice

Cayuse 2017 Armada Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $103 93 points
Outrageous, perfumed aromas of Stargazer lily, ember, chopped parsley, cherry pit, moist earth after a rain, orange peel and savory herb lead to elegant, snappy, fresh fruit flavors that show intensity. The balance is beautiful. A 30-second flower-filled finish caps it off. Classic Cayuse.

Cayuse 2017 En Cerise Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $90 93 points
The aromas are quite reserved for this producer, with notes of flower, crushed rock and fireplace. A flavorful palate follows, full of black-olive and earth notes. A lingering finish comes next. It’s a very understated offering.

Cayuse 2017 Impulsivo En Chamberlain Vineyard Tempranillo Walla Walla Valley (OR) $100 92 points
The aromas are locked up out of the gate, opening to reveal notes of fresh tobacco, moist earth, orange rind and cherry. The palate has a pleasing sumptuousness to the mouthwatering earth, savory, olive and citrus flavors. The texture is lovely. Editor’s Choice

Cayuse 2017 Flying Pig Walla Walla Valley (OR) $100 92 points
Cabernet Franc makes up half of this wine, with the rest Merlot (39%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Pungent aromas of sliced green pepper, jalapeño pepper, flower, ember and cherry are followed by velvety-soft cherry and green-pepper flavors. It shows these varieties’ greener, more savory sides, but for those who enjoy that profile, look no further.

Cayuse 2017 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $90 92 points
Coming from the estate’s first vineyard planted in 1997, the aromas are reserved, with notes of soot, raspberry, dried herb, smoked meat, asparagus and plum. The palate brings a sense of elegance, purity and freshness that is captivating. A lingering finish caps it off. It’s a pretty, understated offering from this site.

Cayuse 2017 The Lovers Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $103 90 points
Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for 87% of this wine, with the rest Syrah. Aromas of stone, tobacco, peat, herb, plum and cherry lead to a somewhat lighter styled but almost creamy-feeling palate, full of mouthwatering cherry, plum, earth and savory flavors.

Charles & Charles 2019 Rosé Columbia Valley $14 89 points
Syrah (71%) takes the lead on this wine, with the rest Grenache, Mourvèdre and bits of Cabernet Sauvignon and Counoise. Substantially lighter in color than recent vintages, the aromas are reductive out of the gate. They open to reveal pleasing notes of watermelon, strawberry and herb. The palate is light, brisk and focused, with plenty of acidity to keep the interest high. It only gets better with time open. Best Buy

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Horse Heaven Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills $15 91 points
Aged in stainless steel (70%) and barrel, this 100% varietal wine showcases vibrant aromas of lemon verbena, white grapefruit and spice. These lead to full creamy-feeling citrus flavors. The acidity is impressive. Pair it with scallop ceviche with mango and lime. Best Buy

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Late Harvest Riesling Columbia Valley $9 88 points
The aromas are surprisingly subdued for the variety, with notes of lime, jasmine and peach. Sweet stone-fruit flavors follow. It shows a lovely sense of balance. Best Buy

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Mimi Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills $20 88 points
The aromas are expressive, with notes of baking spice, crayon and peach. Medium-bodied supple flavors follow. Ripe peach notes linger on the finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2019 Limited Release Le Rosé Yakima Valley $25 87 points
Pale-salmon in color, forward aromas of wild strawberry, whole tangerine and kiwi lead to just off-dry, heavier styled flavors that gets bogged down.

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2018 Eroica Riesling Columbia Valley $20 91 points
The aromas are vibrant, with notes of lime leaf, whole lime and wet slate. Medium-bodied, off-dry lime and white-peach flavors follow, with mouthwatering acidity upping the interest. Nestea Iced Tea notes linger on the finish. Delicious stuff. Pair it with shrimp ceviche with diced mango and lime juice. Editor’s Choice

Convergence Zone 2016 Storm Front Columbia Valley $29 91 points
Merlot makes up 55% of this wine, with the balance Cabernets Sauvignon (28%) and Franc. The aromas are vibrant, with notes of cherry meats, barrel spice, blackberry, licorice and cedar box. There’s a pleasing sense of brightness to the ripe well-balanced fruit flavors, with more than enough acid and tannin structure to stand it up straight.

Convergence Zone 2016 Squall Line Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $35 90 points
This vineyard has quickly established itself as one of Washington’s top Cabernet sites. The aromas are brooding out of the gate, opening to reveal notes of pencil lead, green pepper, maraschino cherry, scorched earth and whiffs of mountain blueberry. There’s a lovely sense of freshness to the palate that ups the interest.

Convergence Zone 2019 Sun

Upland Vineyard Chenin Blanc Snipes Mountain $16 89 points

The aromas are bright and fresh, with notes of citrus zest, lemon balm and tangerine. The palate is sleek and juicy, with passion fruit flavors and bright acidity. There’s a lot to like.

Convergence Zone NV Mistral Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain $33 86 points
Aromas of cherry- fruit leather, vanilla and coconut are followed by a palate where the wood largely takes over. The variety and appellation seem impossible to find.

Convergence Zone 2017 Virga Columbia Valley $33 85 points
Mourvèdre is in the lead here (55%), followed by Grenache (35%) and Syrah. Aromas of vanilla, wood spice, char and coffee are followed by wood-forward flavors, with coffee and vanilla notes lingering on the finish. The barrel influence rules the day.

Convergence Zone 2017 Drizzle Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Pinot Gris Red Mountain $15 85 points
Despite its age, this wine is a bit reductive out of the gate. Aromas of cut apple and melon lead to medium-sweet full-bodied oxidized red-apple flavors. It doesn’t have the acid to balance the sugar.

Delmas 2018 SJR Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75 93 points
Coming from the edge of the Rocks District and blended with 8% Viognier, pure huckleberry, flower, olive, orange peel and coffee aromas are the opening hand. It follows with abundant, palate-coating blue-fruit flavors with an almost creamy feel. The flavors persist on the coffee and blue-fruit-filled finish. It’s a rich, fruit forward expression of this often savory sub-appellation of the valley with impressive staying power and a very long life in front of it. Best from 2026–2032. Cellar Selection

Devison 2019 Evergreen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Ancient Lakes $25 93 points
Winemaker Peter Devison has made a name for others for two decades with best-in-the-state white wines. His inaugural eponymous Sauvignon Blanc makes a name for him. The aromas are arresting, with notes of crushed rock, white grapefruit, citrus, dried herb and saline. The palate brings tart, puckering, electric acidity that commands attention. But there is much more here—texture, layering, purity, depth and length. An acid lover’s delight, it’s flat-out delicious and boundlessly ambitious, succeeding on every level. Enjoy it with oysters on the half shell for a sublime experience. Editor’s Choice

Devison 2018 Beneath the Stones Syrah Walla Walla Valley $49 93 points
This is the winery’s inaugural offering from the Rocks District. The aromas announce themselves with notes of wet rock, fresh herb, green olive, orange rind, asparagus, espresso bean and raspberry. The fruit and savory flavors show intensity, freshness and superb hang time. Showing a lot of detail and polish but also the feral aspect of this appellation, it has a long life ahead of it. Editor’s Choice

Devison 2018 GPR Columbia Valley $29 92 points
Syrah makes up 57% of this wine, with the rest Grenache (40%) and Mourvèdre. The aromas are reserved, with notes of crushed rock, wild raspberry, dried herb and whiffs of baker’s chocolate. The cherry and cranberry flavors bring a sense of volume and density, coating the palate. Give it some time to open up, but it delivers big time and is an excellent value to boot. Editor’s Choice

Devison 2019 Boushey Vineyard Rosé Yakima Valley $24 92 points
Mourvèdre makes up three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Grenache. Showing just a tinge of copper color, expressive aromas of rhubarb, grapefruit and white peach are followed by a tart, flavorful palate with snappy acidity. It shows a lovely sense of layering and intensity, delivering more seriousness than is typically found in domestic pinks without sacrificing one iota of pleasure. Editor’s Choice

Dixie & Bass 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé Horse Heaven Hills $17 88 points
The aromas bring appeal, with notes of strawberry, herb and melon rind. The flavors are dry and broad in feel. It brings a lot of charm.

Ducleaux 2016 Anarchy Columbia Valley $36 89 points
The aromas on this Syrah-dominant wine are fruit forward, with notes of dark raspberry, cherry, crushed rock and spice along with a whiff of funk and bacon fat. The palate is more reserved in style than the aromas suggest, painting around the edges, showing restraint along with the tart acidity of the vintage.

Ducleaux 2018 One Night Stand Rosé Columbia Valley $20 89 points
This wine is a pretty pale-peach color. Strawberry, watermelon and sweet herb aromas are followed by well-balanced flavors. It’s a charmer.

Ducleaux 2018 Jordyn Ancient Lakes $22 88 points
Part of the proceeds of this wine benefit cancer research at the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. The peach, melon and gummy aromas are followed by sweet center-focused stone-fruit flavors. There’s much to like.

Ducleaux 2018 Pink Slip Rosé Walla Walla Valley $19 88 points
This rosé of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre is a very pretty pale-peach color. Aromas of cut apple, biscuit and gummy are followed by lightly styled, center-focused flavors. It pulls up on the finish.

Ducleaux 2019 Call Sign Petillant Naturel Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $24 86 points
This wine is 100% Grenache. Cloudy in appearance, red- and yellow-apple aromas are out front, along with notes of apple skin, pear and cider. The palate brings more straightforward enjoyment. Drink now.

Efeste 2017 Big Papa Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $62 92 points
This is 100% varietal coming from vineyards with at least 30 years of age. The aromas bring appeal, with notes of earth, dried herb and brooding dark cherry. Dense, focused fruit flavors follow, showing great texture and length. Brawny tannins back it up. This is a serious offering of this variety. Editor’s Choice

Efeste 2017 Taylor Mag Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $35 91 points
Pleasing aromas of dark raspberry, cherry and earth are followed by ripe palate-coating fruit flavors. It brings a lovely sense of freshness considering the fruit intensity. Firm tannins back it up. It’s a guaranteed crowd-pleasing Cabernet. Editor’s Choice

Efeste 2019 Adrienne Chenin Blanc Yakima Valley $28 90 points
This is a variety change for this wine. Coming from vines planted in 1970, the aromas are light, with notes of herb, honey and mineral. The palate shows an appealing sense of precision, detail and balance. The bright acidity of the variety shines throughout.

Efeste 2016 Final-Final Red Blend Columbia Valley $32 90 points
Half Cabernet Sauvignon and half Syrah, this wine leads with aromas of ripe, fresh raspberry, cranberry and chocolate. The palate is balanced and silky smooth in flavors of red fruit and chocolate.

Efeste 2018 Lola Evergreen Vineyard Chardonnay Ancient Lakes $35 89 points
Brooding aromas of crushed rock, talc and citrus are followed by reserved but layered fruit flavors. It’s an understated offering of the variety that needs some time to blossom.

Efeste 2018 Paulie StoneTree Vineyard Wahluke Slope $40 89 points
Mourvèdre (42%) takes the lead on this blend, followed by Grenache (33%) and Syrah. Aromas of raspberry candy, black pepper and cherry compote are followed by rich, ripe, full-bodied fruit flavors. It finishes quite warm. There are lots of good things happening, but the warmth holds it back.

Efeste 2018 Jolie Bouche Estate Syrah Yakima Valley $45 89 points
Fruit for this wine all comes from Oldfield Vineyard, adjacent to famed Boushey. Aromas of stem, blackberry and dark raspberry are followed by juicy fruit flavors, with a lightly chalky tannins backing it up. It hasn’t all come together at present.

Efeste 2019 Feral Evergreen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Ancient Lakes $22 88 points
This wine starts out quite funky, so much so that it is off-putting. Beneath that are pleasing aromas of wet slate, pink grapefruit and herb. Sleek, tart, puckering pink grapefruit flavors follow. The palate is delightful. The aromas straighten but take significant time to do so.

Efeste 2018 Estate Angela’s Vineyard Cabernet Franc Red Mountain $60 88 points
The aromas are light, with notes of berry and cherry, seeming closed up at present. The flavors are ripe and full bodied, backed by grainy, slightly astringent tannins. It finishes warm. It’s all an odd mix.

Efeste 2019 Oldfield Estate Rosé Yakima Valley $24 86 points
Mourvèdre (55%) is in the lead on this wine, with the rest Grenache (40%) and a splash of Syrah. Starting out slightly reductive, this wine opens to show notes of medicine, strawberry and spice. Light but lively flavors follow.

Eternal 2019 Eternal Lust Albariño Columbia Valley $29 90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Otis Vineyard. Fermented and aged in neutral oak, the aromas pop, with notes of fresh citrus zest, melon rind, flower, herb and whiffs of diesel. The palate is medium bodied in style, with plentiful kiwi, watermelon and citrus flavors. A lovely sense of acidity stitches it all together. It’s thoroughly delightful.

Eternal 2019 Eternal Perspective Grenache Blanc Columbia Valley $29 90 points
Intriguing aromas of lime zest, slate, green papaya, charcoal and whole lemon are followed by medium-bodied flavors backed by lemony acidity. The balance is spot on.

Eternal 2019 Eternal Beauty Grenache Rosé Columbia Valley $21 89 points
Coming from Lawrence Vineyard, aromas of strawberry and herb are followed by light, bright, puckering flavors. It brings a pleasing sense of acidity.

Eternal 2016 Eternal Echo Gamache Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley $59 87 points
Vibrant aromas of raspberry compote, macerated cranberry and dried herb are followed by red-fruit flavors that are ripe but lighter (particularly through the middle) than the aromas would suggest. It shows some warmth on the finish. It’s a quite jammy take on the variety.

Eternal 2018 Eternal Insight Skin Contact White Marsanne Columbia Valley $34 86 points
This white is golden colored showing but some browning. Aromas of ginger, flower, marmalade and citrus are followed by light, bone-dry flavors. It’s more intellectually interesting than hedonistically successful.

Fielding Hills 2018 Roussanne Columbia Valley $34 90 points
Aromas of almond, nectarine, wheat and lees are followed by full-bodied and rich layers of stone-fruit flavors. A pleasing sense of acidity ties it all together. This is an unabashedly full-bodied white wine, made in a red wine lover’s style.

Fielding Hills 2018 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $30 88 points
This is the winery’s first foray into Chardonnay. The aromas bring notes of straw, peach and anise. Full-bodied, sweet rounded tropical-fruit flavors follow. The fruit gets a bit ahead of itself on the palate, but there’s promise here.

Fielding Hills 2019 Estate Chenin Blanc Wahluke Slope $28 88 points
The aromas offer notes of cut, slightly oxidized seeming red apple, along with plentiful notes of pear. A licorice note lurks in the background. The palate is textured in feel. It brings the acidity this variety is known for.

Figgins 2017 Figlia Walla Walla Valley $55 93 points
This wine is a blend of Petit Verdot and Merlot. Fruit-forward brooding aromas of dark cherry, flower, earth, herb and spice are followed by layered textured dark-fruit flavors that sail on the finish. It brings a sense of seriousness and gravitas but without any shortage of unabashed, outright deliciousness. Bright acidity accents it and firm tannins stand it up. The structure and balance are impressive. Enjoy from 2027–2032. Cellar Selection

Figgins 2017 Estate Walla Walla Valley $85 92 points
This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. The aromas are more brooding than other releases from this family, with notes of cedar box, cherry, barrels spice and scorched earth. The palate brings no shortage of fruit intensity, along with firm tannins and bright acidity. As with every release from Figgins, this is one for the cellar. Best from 2028–2033. Cellar Selection

Fly Rod 2016 Stimulator Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $27 88 points
Aromas of tire rubber, black cherry and anise lead to soft, silky, almost creamy-feeling flavors. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It has an appealing sense of freshness. The aromas and palate don’t quite sync.

Forgeron 2017 Anvil Proprietary Blend Walla Walla Valley $65 92 points
This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. Seeing just 40% new oak, the focused aromas of dark raspberry, plum and black currant are followed by ripe fruit flavors that bring texture. It’s beautiful now but will benefit from some time in the cellar.

Forgeron 2018 Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $45 92 points
One sniff of this wine and the vineyard is immediately apparent. What more could one ask? Cofermented with 6% Viognier, aromas of ember, bacon fat, blueberry pie and mineral are followed by ripe, full-feeling fruit and savory flavors. It’s a shining example of this esteemed site, with enough tannic heft to do well with some time in the cellar. Editor’s Choice

Forgeron 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $35 91 points
Birch Creek Vineyard fruit makes up the majority of this wine, with the rest from Minnick Hills and a dollop from Seven Hills. The aromas bring notes of baking spice, mesquite, cherry, cassis and vanilla. The palate paints around the edges initially, filling in over time. Firm tannins back it up. Like many wines from this vintage, it needs a bit of time to show its best. Editor’s Choice

Forgeron 2018 Anvil French Creek Vineyard Old Wente Clone Chardonnay Yakima Valley $48 91 points
The aromas are generous but subtle, with notes of pear, yellow apple, toast and clarified butter. Full-feeling richly textured flavors follow. A long finish caps it off.

Forgeron 2016 Anvil Dionysus Vineyard Block 11 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $65 91 points
Coming from a block in this esteemed vineyard planted in 1988, aromas of baking spice, chocolate, anise, dark cherry and fig are followed by supple, rich, creamy-feeling dark-cherry and spice flavors. Quite ripe in style, it has an immediate yum factor.

Forgeron 2017 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $25 90 points
Aromas of mango, honey and beeswax are followed by rounded but sleek lemony flavors. It has the pleasing acidity of the vintage. Editor’s Choice

Forgeron 2019 Viognier Walla Walla Valley $25 90 points
The aromas are bright, with notes of pear, flower and peach. Medium-plus bodied, quite pure-seeming melon and stone-fruit flavors follow. It brings a lot of appeal and spot-on balance.

Forgeron 2019 Otherworldly Unoaked Chardonnay Yakima Valley $25 90 points
Aromas of freshly cut apple and pear are followed by full-feeling flavors. Tart acidity backs it up. It has a pleasing sense of varietal purity.

Forgeron 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $35 90 points
The aromas bring plenty of appeal and complexity, with notes of tar, black cherry, anise and dried herb. Full-feeling cherry flavors follow, showing exquisite balance and length. Black-currant notes linger on the finish. Tart acids finish it off. It’s a complete charmer. Editor’s Choice

Forgeron 2019 Blacksmith Blanc Crawford Vineyard Yakima Valley $28 88 points
Viognier makes up two-thirds of this wine, with the rest Roussanne. The aromas are light, with notes of melon, peach and pear. Full-feeling flavors follow. A slight bitter note lingers on the finish.

Forgeron 2017 Anvil Boushey Vineyard Birdhouse Block Syrah Yakima Valley $65 88 points
The aromas bring a bit of funk, along with notes of spice that are seemingly a bit muddled. Tart, wound-up fruit flavors follow. It finishes tart. The vineyard seems to get lost.

Forgeron 2018 Minnick Hills Vineyard Merlot Walla Walla Valley $35 87 points
Aromas of green herb and freshly peeled orange are followed by flavors that bring a strange mixture of ripeness and underripeness. The tannins give a firm squeeze. It’s an odd mix, particularly for Merlot.

Forgeron 2017 Alder Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel Horse Heaven Hills $35 87 points
Aromas of date and fig are followed by front-loaded flavors that trail toward the warm finish. The fruit seems quite evolved. Drink now.

Forgeron 2018 Boushey Vineyard Grenache Yakima Valley $45 87 points
Aromas of cranberry, fresh orange peel and raspberry lead to lightly styled fruit flavors with a snappy sense of acidity. The fruit doesn’t quite seem to have fully ripened at times, with the concentration not entirely there.

Forgeron 2017 Imaginarium Red Blend Columbia Valley $35 86 points
The aromas are underripe, with notes of orange oil, green pepper, smoke and green herb. The palate is front loaded and shows more of the same.

Gård 2019 Freyja Lawrence Lawrence Vineyards Columbia Valley $16 91 points
Roussanne makes up 52% of this wine, with the rest Viognier. The aromas are bright, with notes of melon, ripe peach and citrus, showing a sense of purity. Full-bodied, rounded feeling stone-fruit flavors follow. A tart finish caps it off. It’s delightful. Editor’s Choice

Gård 2017 Vaucluse Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Columbia Valley $40 91 points
This wine is three-quarters Syrah, with the rest Grenache. The aromas explode from the glass, with notes of pure blue fruit along with smoke, medicine, olive, fresh herb and flower. The palate is pillowy soft and flavorful, with tart acids putting it all in frame. It brings an appealing sense of precision.

Gård 2017 Thunderstone Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Syrah Columbia Valley $45 91 points
The aromas leap up, with notes of fresh parsley, green olive, smoke and herb, with the stem influence out front. Black- and green-olive flavors follow, showing a sleek styling, with plentiful medicinal accents.

Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $40 88 points
The aromas offer notes of garden herb, smoke and plenty of vanilla, with the fruit coming off coming off as quite green and the oak out front. Lightly smoky flavors follow, backed by tart acidity. Orange-peel and oak accents flesh it out.

Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Grenache Columbia Valley $40 88 points
The aromas offer notes of whole berry, gummy bear, white pepper, earth and herb. There’s a lovely sense of lightness and gracefulness to the palate’s reserved fruit flavors. It’s a pretty interpretation of the variety, though it might be too light for some.

Gård 2019 Grand Klasse Lawrence Estate Wines Rosé Columbia Valley $24 88 points
The aromas are reserved in style, with notes of melon and herb, along with wheat and a light medicinal note. The flavors are full but also sleek in style, with plenty of acidity backing it up. There are interesting things happening, but they don’t all come together.

Gramercy 2019 Picpoul Walla Walla Valley $20 92 points
Aromas of citrus zest, whole lemon and wet stone are followed by medium-bodied tart and puckering white-grapefruit flavors backed by electric acidity. This wine has always been a standout, but this vintage brings more of everything: more aromatic and flavor complexity and even more acidity. It requires food alongside it to be fully appreciated. Pair it with grilled halibut with a lemon oregano sauce. Editor’s Choice

Gramercy 2019 Viognier Columbia Valley $28 92 points
Gramercy has charted a new course for this often overripe variety. Citrus, white-peach and mineral aromas are follow by exquisitely balanced pear and peach flavors. It has a pleasing, mouthwatering feel that is rare in Viognier in this state or elsewhere and that ups the interest. Editor’s Choice

Gramercy 2019 Olsen Vineyard Rosé Columbia Valley $22 91 points
This one-of-a-kind wine in the state is led by Cinsault (44%), followed by Grenache (28%) and Syrah. A pretty pale-salmon color, the aromas offer notes of strawberry, herb, melon, mineral and tangerine peel. The palate is medium bodied in style, with mouthwatering acidity accenting the fruit flavors. Tasty stuff. Editor’s Choice

Greenwing 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 89 points
This young-release wine brings aromas of blueberry pie that open into cherry, coffee, and barrel-spice notes over time. Cherry flavors intertwine with creamy barrel notes. There’s more than enough tannin to keep it all together. The oak plays a primary part in the show.

Grosgrain 2019 Kiona Vineyard Old Vine Pétillant-Naturel Lemberger Red Mountain $28 91 points
This wine hails from the first Lemberger vines in the country, planted in 1976. Appealing aromas of lemon pith, citrus and baked bread are followed by bright, sharply etched citrus flavors. Electric acidity enlivens it. It’s a one wine charm offensive Editor’s Choice

Grosgrain 2018 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $40 91 points
This wine hails from one of the most esteemed Syrah vineyards in the state. Coming from Block 36 and aged 11 months in neutral oak, plum and boysenberry aromas are out front, followed by violet, thistle and dried herb. The palate brings exquisitely pure, sharply etched red-fruit flavors. It’s a beautifully understated wine that also shows impressive staying power, boding well for its life in the cellar. Editor’s Choice

Grosgrain 2019 Blush Angiolina Farm Grenache Rosé Yakima Valley $20 91 points
This wine is all Grenache, fermented and aged in concrete. So pale in color it could easily pass for a white wine, the aromas are reserved at present, while the palate is expressive, fuller in feel, with strawberry and pink-grapefruit flavors framed by zippy, lemony acidity. It’s still settling in but has excellent stuffing. Give it a short decant.

Grosgrain 2019 Philips Vineyard Albariño Walla Walla Valley $24 91 points
Newcomer Grosgrain is quickly making a name for itself with wines like this. Primarily fermented and aged in concrete egg, with the rest in neutral barrel and stainless steel, its bright compellingly fresh aromas of tangerine, citrus peel and melon are followed by full-feeling, lively, lemony flavors, with racy acidity. Editor’s Choice

Grosgrain 2019 Les Collines Petillant Naturel Sparkling Sémillon Walla Walla Valley $28 90 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of sweet herb, lemon zest and brioche. The palate is light and lively, bringing all of the enjoyment that this style has to offer.

High Heaven 2019 Estate Grown & Bottled Starshower Riesling Columbia Valley $12 88 points
Honeysuckle, lime and peach aromas are followed by off-dry peach and Nestea Iced Tea flavors. The concentration seems a little light at times on an otherwise enjoyable wine. Best Buy

High Heaven 2018 Estate Grown and Bottled Sea of Tranquility Merlot Columbia Valley $15 88 points
Aromas of smoke, blueberry, raspberry and cherry are followed by blue and red fruit, vanilla and Creamsicle flavors that show a touch of bitterness on the finish. Firm, slightly dry tannins back it up. You wouldn’t peg it for Merlot, but it’s tasty all the same.

High Heaven 2018 Estate Grown & Bottled Roaming Elk Red Blend Columbia Valley $15 88 points
Syrah makes up 60% of this wine, with the rest Merlot. The aromas are fruit forward, with notes of blackberry, plum, vanilla and smoke. Plump fruit and barrel flavors follow, with a nice bit of tannic heft behind them. It’s a little light through the middle, but the rest is lovely, though the oak is prominent.

High Heaven 2018 Estate Grown & Bottled Majestic Pines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $15 88 points
Plum, raspberry, and bittersweet-chocolate aromas are followed by silky, full fruit and barrel flavors. Vanilla aromas and flavors are laced throughout. Firm tannins back it up. It’s not identifiably Cabernet, but it’s enjoyable all the same.

High Heaven 2019 Cloud Mountain Chardonnay Columbia Valley $12 87 points
The aromas seem a bit muddled, with notes of apple and toast. Full-feeling fruit flavors follow, pulling up on the finish. Best Buy

Hors Categorie 2017 Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $250 96 points
The nose shows classic Walla Walla Valley Syrah aromas of soot, black olive, black pepper and salami. The palate is intense and flavorful, but also brings a sense of deftness, density, intensity and detail, with abundant savory and floral accents. The balance is impeccable and the finish is seemingly endless. Best after 2026. Cellar Selection

Horsepower 2017 High Contrast Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $121 96 points
The aromas explode from the glass, with notes of fire pit, potpourri, black olive, wet stone, dried porcini and stone. The palate is sumptuous, layered, elegant and intensely flavorful, showing abundant savory notes. A lingering black olive and earthy finish caps it off. Best after 2025. Cellar Selection

Horsepower 2017 Sur Echalas Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $121 95 points
This wine brings the good old fashioned funk that made this estate and region famous. The aromas of crushed rock, fire pit, earth, whole black olive and potpourri show subtlety and complexity. The palate offers richness, layering, Rocks District texture and depth, all undulating across the palate. It’s intense. A hyperextended rich black-olive and savory-filled finish caps it off. A long list of superlatives describe this wine. Best after 2025. Cellar Selection

Horsepower 2017 The Tribe Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $121 94 points
Initially brooding crushed violet, ember, moist earth, herb, green-olive, wet basalt and smoked meat aromas are followed by a velvet hammer of olive and other savory flavors, coating the palate in waves from end to end. A long lengthy, flower- and olive-filled finish caps it off. Its power and appeal are in its elegance, subtleties and sophistication. Editor’s Choice

Horsepower 2017 Sur Echalas Vineyard Grenache Walla Walla Valley (OR) $121 93 points
Compelling soot, green-olive, grilled asparagus, potpourri, licorice and raspberry aromas are followed by a palate that is more restrained in style than the aromas would suggest. It has a pillowy soft feel to the savory flavors. Outrageous potpourri and sea-breeze notes linger on the finish.

J. Bookwalter 2019 Scarlet Hexflame Conner Lee Vineyard Rosé Columbia Valley $28 87 points
This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot, with bits of Syrah and Cabernet Franc finishing it off. Pale-peach in color, it’s reductive out of the gate, with notes of struck match and savory tones in front of cherry and tangerine. The palate is medium bodied, with cherry flavors and a pleasing mouthwatering sense to it.

Kirkland Signature 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $9 87 points
Aromas of cherry, coffee, tire rubber and herb lead to linear, sleek, coffee-accented pit-fruit flavors that show pleasing balance. There’s plenty of enjoyment to be had. Best Buy

La Rata 2017 Red Blend Walla Walla Valley (OR) $76 93 points
Grenache makes up 61% of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (29%) and Syrah (10%). Aromas of earthy funk, crushed stone, raspberry, Kalamata olive, dried peat, tobacco, orange and herb rise up from the glass. The fruit and savory flavors are fresh, pure and juicy. A raspberry- and olive-filled finish caps it off. It’s a very pretty, sophisticated offering from this appellation. Editor’s Choice

Leonetti Cellar 2017 Reserve Walla Walla Valley $150 96 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 58% of this wine, followed by an impressive 32% Petit Verdot and 10% Malbec. The aromas pull you into the glass, with notes of dark cherry, coffee, flower, plum, graphite and bittersweet chocolate, showing a pleasing sense of complexity. The flavors are supple, textured and richly flavorful. Everything is in perfect proportion, with spot-on balance. It drinks beautifully now, with an open texture, but has the acid and tannin structure for the long haul. Best from 2030–2037. Cellar Selection

Leonetti Cellar 2017 Loess Walla Walla Valley $138 96 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 77% of this wine, with the rest Malbec (15%) and Petit Verdot. The aromas pop, with notes of dark cherry, cranberry, scorched earth, barrel spice and cedar. Palate-enveloping, textured, rich, dense flavors follow. Firm, sneaky tannins and mouthwatering acids back it up. One for the ages, this is more about sophistication than brawn, though it brings plenty of both. Best after 2030, with a decade beyond that. Cellar Selection

Leonetti Cellar 2017 Mill Creek Upland Walla Walla Valley $138 95 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 67% of this wine, with the rest an impressive 33% Petit Verdot. The aromas bring immediate appeal, with notes of dark cherry, plum, spice, flower and licorice. The palate is rich and shows outrageous texture and mouthfeel. A firm grip of tannins and pleasingly bright acidity back it up. It’s a knee-buckler. Best from 2032–2040. Cellar Selection

Leonetti Cellar 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $100 94 points
Up-front aromas of cocoa, dark cherry, licorice, barrel spice and scorched earth are followed by dense, full, textured fruit flavors backed by exquisitely balanced tannin and acid structure. Everything is in perfect proportion, nary a hair out of place. It has a good 20+ years of enjoyment in it. Best from 2028–2035. Cellar Selection

Leonetti Cellar 2017 Serra Pedace Walla Walla Valley $138 94 points
Coming from the winery’s terraced vineyard in the SeVein project, this is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas are penetrating, with notes of raspberry, dark cherry, spice and scorched earth. The flavors explode across the palate, while bringing richness, restraint, and balance. The tannins give a quite firm handshake, showing some rusticity, with bright acids right there beside them. It’s a classically styled wine that is near impenetrable right now, with the tannins up front. But it has the stuffing for an easy two or more decades of enjoyment. Best from 2030–2040. Cellar Selection

Leonetti Cellar 2018 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $80 93 points
This wine is 100% varietal—what a glorious example of Merlot. Aromas of dark-raspberry compote, plum, dark chocolate and cedar are followed by textured, layered, rich flavors that a firm spine of tannins stands up. Lovely acidity brightens it.

Leonetti Cellar 2017 Sangiovese Walla Walla Valley $75 93 points
The aromas bring a dazzling sense of detail, with notes of raspberry, cranberry, sweet dried flower and moist earth. Action-packed, dense but not overweighted red-fruit flavors follow. The acidity is bright, and the tannins present but remarkably supple. It’s a pitch-perfect example of the variety, with a very long life in front of it. Editor’s Choice

Leonetti Cellar 2014 Aglianico Walla Walla Valley $75 93 points
This is the only example of this variety from the valley, but it shows the potential. The aromas are distinctive, with notes of earth, crushed granite, black cherry, raspberry and leather. Anise shows over time. Dense, focused fruit flavors follow, with firm, slightly rustic tannins backing them up. Lively acidity keeps it all in focus. Best after 2026. Cellar Selection

Leonetti Cellar 2017 Holy Roller Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $138 93 points
Coming from the winery’s estate vineyard in the Rocks District, this wine is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Sangiovese. The aromas offer notes of cocoa, dark raspberry, plum, moist earth, cranberry and hints of savory herb. Plush, forward, plate-coating flavors follow. A lovely sense of structure holds it all together. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s the most forward and approachable of the 2017 single-vineyard offerings but it still has plenty of life in front of it. Best from 2025 to 2032 with time beyond that. Cellar Selection

Love That Red NV Fillies & Mares Grenache The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater $53 90 points
Darker in color than most examples of this variety from the appellation, the aromas intrigue, with notes of plum, stick and brown stem. There’s a silky softness to the lightly styled palate that is the hallmark of this region.

Love That Red 2016 Dead Heat Syrah Columbia Valley $36 90 points
The aromas are all high register, with notes of char and green olive, along with whiffs of vanilla, black cherry and spice. There’s a plush, soft feel to the blue-fruit and barrel flavors. It’s a charmer.

Love That Red 2015 Race Day Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $60 90 points
The aromas bring notes of cherry, coffee, barrel spice and herb. Front-loaded black-cherry flavors follow, fleshing out over time. Date notes linger on the finish. It brings a lot of appeal, with the heat of the vintage and appellation kept in check. That said, its best days are in the near term.

Love That Red 2016 Stakes Race Syrah Walla Walla Valley $53 88 points
Aromas of stick, brown stem, coffee bean, green olive and funk lead to front-loaded fruit and savory flavors. There’s promise here, but it doesn’t deliver on all of it.

Miscreant Project NV White Lie Miscreant Affirmation #08 Columbia Valley $14 89 points
Roussanne makes up 48% of this wine, with the rest Marsanne (40%) and Viognier. Aromas of whole yellow apple, melon and peeled orange are followed by a palate that is broad in feel, with a light guava note. A pleasing sense of acidity lifts it on the finish. Best Buy

Miscreant Project NV Pun Intended Miscreant Affirmation #25 Columbia Valley $16 88 points
This wine is mostly Malbec (80%), with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of plum, cherry, herb and spice are followed by ripe cherry flavors that bring an appealing sense of purity. A light smoky note lingers on the finish. It’s a surefire crowd-pleaser.

Miscreant Project 2017 Boldfaced Lie Miscreant Affirmation #03 Red Blend Columbia Valley $16 87 points
Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for 60% of this wine, with the rest Merlot. The aromas are bright, with notes of rose hips, raspberry gummy, dried herb and spice. Fairly smoky cherry flavors follow, creating some distraction.

Mount Si 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $32 87 points
Aromas of vanilla, nougat and cherry are followed by fruit and barrel flavors that show some elegance considering the warmth of the vintage. It’s well made, with good things going, but ultimately the wood gets in the way.

Mount Si 2016 Lonesome Springs Ranch Malbec Yakima Valley $32 86 points
Aromas of cherry and blackberry-fruit leather are followed by quite ripe fruit flavors. The warmth of the vintage shows, with the fruit seeming desiccated.

Mount Si 2015 Merlot Wahluke Slope $30 85 points
Aromas of baking spice, tire rubber and blackberry are followed by coffee and red fruit and rubber flavors with a tacky feel. The variety seems to get lost.

Mount Si 2016 Arianses Vineyard Syrah Wahluke Slope $36 85 points
Aromas of raspberry jam, orange peel and spice are followed by light, soft fruit flavors that finish warm. A medicinal streak runs throughout.

No Girls 2017 La Paciencia Vineyard Grenache Walla Walla Valley (OR) $76 95 points
The aromas announce themselves with notes of peat, funk, potpourri, crushed rock, purple flowers, sea salt, umami, strawberry and olive, showing layers of complexity. The flavors are simultaneously rich and elegant, crashing across the palate in waves. Editor’s Choice

No Girls 2017 La Paciencia Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $76 94 points
The aromas arrest you in your tracks, with notes of potpourri, earthy funk, sea breeze and charcuterie plate. The black-olive and floral flavors are pillowy soft in feel, undulating across the palate, showing depth and intensity, leading to a hyperextended savory note and flower-filled finish. It’s a showstopper. Editor’s Choice

No Girls 2017 Tempranillo Walla Walla Valley (OR) $76 92 points
The aromas explode from the glass, with notes of sweet pipe tobacco, fire pit, black-olive tapenade, cherry, orange peel and earthy funk. The palate is more reserved than the aromas would suggest and brings a real sense of mouthwatering freshness and restraint to the savory flavors. A long finish caps it off.

Pacific Rim 2018 Vin de Glaciere Riesling Columbia Valley $17 90 points
Expressive aromas of orange marmalade, citrus, brown sugar and honey are followed by sweet, rich but well balanced fruit flavors. The variety’s pleasing sense of acidity keeps the sugar well in check. Marmalade notes linger on the finish.

Palencia 2016 Edgar Martinez Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $120 87 points
Barrel notes are out front, with aromas of vanilla, coconut, menthol and freshly hewn green wood, so much so that it’s hard to get at the fruit. Soft fruit flavors follow. The oak completely dominates.

Primarius 2018 Pinot Noir Oregon $19 88 points
The aromas display a sense of purity, with notes of strawberry, cinnamon stick, peppermint and spice. Fresh fruit-forward flavors follow, backed by bunched up tannins. A lingering finish caps it off. It needs time to open up, but it delivers.

Primarius 2019 Pinot Gris Oregon $16 87 points
The aromas of whole pear, wet stone and apple are followed by light bright pear flavors. It’s a straight-down-the-fairway offering of this variety, with acid driving it.

Quilceda Creek 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $200 96 points
This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, with fruit coming from Horse Heaven Hills sites Champoux, Lake Wallula, Palengat, and Wallula. It’s aromatically brooding out of the gate, with notes of cherry meats, barrel spice and incense, not yet ready to reveal its charms. Dense, focused, layered, almost creamy-feeling fruit flavors follow. It is coiled up tightly right now but has all of the stuffing to go the distance and then some. Best from 2030–2037. Cellar Selection

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Foothills Reserve Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $85 94 points
Right now, Reynvaan has this area almost all to themselves, but with wines like this, one can’t imagine that will last long. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of rock salt, nori, black pepper and whiffs of smoke. The savory, smoky and salty flavors coat the palate, bringing a lot of richness but also a lot of deftness. It has a feather-light feel but also plenty of intensity that adds to the appeal. A hyperextended finish caps it off. It’s exquisite. Editor’s Choice

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 In the Hills Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $80 94 points
The aromas are arresting, with notes of freshly ground black pepper, moist earth, black and green olive and fire pit. The palate delivers on all of that promise and more, while showing a sense of deftness and balance that carries through the long, savory, black-pepper-filled finish. It’s spectacular, all about expression and refinement with a finish that goes on for days. Editor’s Choice

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2018 Estate White In the Rocks Vineyard Grenache Blanc Walla Walla Valley $60 93 points
This estate’s red wines grab the headlines, but the winemakers are quietly producing some of the most exciting whites in North America. Aromas of wet stone, almond, lees and spice are followed by seamless, textured flavors that carry on a seemingly endless finish. The balance is impeccable, with a backbone of lemony acidity sustaining it. Editor’s Choice

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Queen’s Road In the Rocks Vineyard Estate Walla Walla Valley $65 93 points
This is lightly cloudy in appearance. The aromas jump out of the glass, with notes of tangerine, flower, talc, ripe peach and wet rock. Full-feeling, richly textured and intense stone-fruit flavors follow. It wins on every level, but it’s the exceedingly long finish that separates this wine. Editor’s Choice

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 In the Rocks Vineyard Marsanne Walla Walla Valley $250 93 points
Coming from the winery’s estate vineyard in the Rocks District this wine is made only in magnum size. Its alluring aromas of wet stone, almond, spice, peach and lemon peel are followed by nectarous, palate-coating but still reserved stone-fruit flavors. The balance and tension are compelling.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 In the Rocks Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $95 93 points
A bit reductive out of the gate, this wine opens to reveal aromas of black pepper, moist earth after a rain, nori, olive and herb. The blueberry, black-olive and other savory flavors are rounded in feel while bringing a lovely sense of freshness. An orange-peel note lingers on the finish. Yum.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Stonessence Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $110 92 points
This wine is quite reductive out of the gate. Underneath that are aromas of sea salt, olive brine, espresso and charcuterie plate. The palate brings a sense of deftness and detail, with abundant savory and coffee notes on the long, salty finish. Yum.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 The Contender Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $90 91 points
Brooding aromas of sea breeze, umami, olive and struck match are followed by lighter styled olive flavors. Floral notes persist on the finish.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 The Classic In the Rocks Vineyard Walla Walla Valley $75 89 points
This wine is a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 18% Petit Verdot and 11% Cabernet Franc. The aromas start out reductive, with notes of funk, snuffed out match and tar. Currant, green-pepper and scorched earth notes follow. The palate shows lightly styled smoky, sleek flavors that bring more freshness than the Rocks District is often known for. Mesquite notes linger on the finish.

Roaming Dog 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé Columbia Valley $14 89 points
A pretty pale-pink color, the aromas bring bright notes of watermelon, cherry and melon. Full-feeling, just off-dry-drinking kiwi flavors follow. For those looking for a delicious, fruity, off-dry rosé with enough acid to pull it off, look no further. Best Buy

Rolling Bay Winery 2018 Reserve Chardonnay Snipes Mountain $41 88 points
Toast, peach and pineapple aromas lead to full-bodied, almost sweet-seaming pineapple flavors. There is abundant acidity that comes off as a bit sharp edged at present. A light medicinal note lingers on the finish. There are a lot of interesting things here, particularly the acidity, but they don’t all come together at present.

Sagelands 2018 Riverbed Red Blend Columbia Valley $12 88 points
Aromas of sugared plum and sweet black currant are followed by ripe straight-down-the-fairway fruit flavors. Soft tannins back it up. It’s a crowd-pleaser. Best Buy

Sagelands 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $12 87 points
The aromas are reserved, with notes of plum, berry and apple. Jammy fruit flavors follow. It’s a ripe, slightly sweet style but the price is right. It will find plenty of admirers. Best Buy

Sagelands 2018 Merlot Columbia Valley $12 87 points
Fruit-forward aromas of plum and black currant lead to green-pepper and plum flavors. The oak is dialed back, putting a pleasant focus on the freshness of the fruit. It doesn’t directly identify as Merlot, but it brings enjoyment. Best Buy

Sagelands 2018 Dark Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $12 86 points
Aromas of freshly cut red apple and black currant are followed by off-dry-drinking black-currant flavors. It has a place.

Saviah 2017 The Funk Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley $65 93 points
The aromas jump out of the glass, with notes of umami, sea breeze, olive brine, shiitake mushroom, orange oil and soot. The palate delivers all of that and a whole lot more, bringing a sense of richness, layering, and intensity. A long finish caps it off. The balance is exquisite. Editor’s Choice

Saviah 2015 Hunt & Gather Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $55 91 points
This wine is half Syrah from Funk Estate in the Rocks District, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon from nearby McClellan Estate. A late release from the warm vintage, the aromas announce themselves, with notes of moist earth, flower, earth, green pepper, coffee and plum. Soft, textured olive, smoke, plum and medicine flavors follow.

Saviah 2017 G-S-M Walla Walla Valley $38 91 points
Grenache (80%) takes the lead on this wine, with the rest equally split between Syrah and Mourvèdre. With the fruit coming from Lonesome Springs Ranch, Sugarloaf and Elephant Mountain, brooding aromas of espresso bean, scorched earth, raspberry jam and dried herb reveal a silky smooth palate. Coffee notes linger on the finish.

Saviah 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
The aromas are forward, with notes of black currant, freshly cut green pepper, scorched earth, barrel spice and coffee. The full-feeling coffee and cherry flavors are sumptuous but fresh, bringing a pleasing sense of intensity. Coffee notes linger on the finish.

Saviah 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $30 90 points
Fruit from Anna Marie, Dugger Creek, McClellan and Seven Hills vineyards comprise this wine. Brooding aromas of dark roasted coffee, barrel spice, blueberry and cherry lead to medium-bodied cherry, coffee and char flavors. It brings the sense of freshness of the vintage.

Sightglass 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley $35 88 points
This is 100% varietal. The aromas display a lot of ripe fruit, with notes of dark plum and spice. Plump fruit flavors follow, with lightly tacky tannins backing it up.

SMAK 2019 Fall/Winter Rosé Columbia Valley $18 90 points
In keeping with its season, this is a heartier offering of rosé. A pretty light-bronze, the aromas bring appealing notes of cantaloupe, melon rind and citrus. Broad-feeling flavors follow. The balance is lovely.

SMAK 2019 Spring Sangiovese Rosé Walla Walla Valley $18 89 points
Coming from a producer dedicated to the production of rosé, this wine is pale-bronze in color. The aromas are not ready to reveal themselves out of the gate, with light notes of cherry, strawberry and herb. Tart mouthwatering flavors follow. One would like to see more generosity aromatically, but the palate delivers.

SMAK 2019 Summer Pinot Gris Rosé Columbia Valley $18 88 points
Pale-bronze in color, the aromas bring notes of grape skin and lees. A full-feeling palate follows. It loses a bit of its balance on the finish.

Spring Run 2019 Rosé Columbia Valley $18 86 points
Syrah makes up 94% of this wine, with the rest bits of Grenache and Mourvèdre. It is cherry-red in color, which is dark by modern standards. Aromas of crayon and watermelon candy are followed off-dry flavors that need more acidity to stand them up.

Stottle 2015 Big Eddie Columbia Valley $38 89 points
This wine is 58% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Malbec. The warmth of the vintage shows, with bright aromas of raspberry jam and barrel spice that lead to ripe, plump, full-bodied red-fruit flavors. A light grip of tannins holds it all together. It’s an appealing, warm-vintage wine made in a hedonistic style.

Stottle 2015 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $38 87 points
Cedar-box, wood-spice, cherry and anise aromas are followed by fruit flavors that paint around the edges. A firm sense of tannin and acid structure back it up. It all needs time to settle in.

Stottle 2015 Malbec Columbia Valley $36 87 points
A blend of Malbec from 6 Prong and Angiolina vineyards, the aromas offer notes of eucalyptus, pine and spice, with the barrel at the fore. Plump dark-fruit and barrel flavors follow, with lightly grainy tannins in support. The variety seems to get a little lost, but it’s interesting.

Stottle 2015 Red Blend Washington $20 87 points
This is a kitchen sink blend of Malbec, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Vanilla and nougat aromas are out front. Sleekly style dark-fruit flavors are surrounded by plentiful barrel accents. The tannins give a light grip.

Stottle 2018 Cuvée de la Reine Washington $28 87 points
This is a 60-40 Viognier and Roussanne blend. The aromas are quite toasty and creamy out of the gate, causing distraction. Behind that are notes of peach and pear. Full-bodied stone-fruit flavors follow, with a warm finish. It’s well made, but the oak gets in the way.

Stottle 2018 Zara Lina Washington $18 87 points
Viognier makes up three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Roussanne. Aromas of toast are at the fore, followed by notes of peach and pear. Full-bodied, viscous-feeling flavors follow. It shows a bit of warmth on the finish.

Stottle 2015 6 Prong Vineyard Syrah Horse Heaven Hills $34 86 points
Aromas of cedar, char, baking spice and cherry are followed by medium-plus-bodied fruit and barrel flavors. The variety seems hard to place, with the oak getting in the way. A bitter note lingers on the finish.

Stottle 2015 6 Prong Vineyard Tempranillo Horse Heaven Hills $35 86 points
Barrel aromas are far out front, with notes of char, toast and freshly hewn wood. The fruit flavors are lighter styled, unable to stand up to the oak. Vanilla notes linger on the finish.

Stottle 2018 Elerding Vineyard Viognier Washington $27 84 points
Produced from some of the oldest Viognier vines in Washington, the aromas of paint and orange rind seem to show some oxygen exposure. The palate falls flat, revealing some alcohol.

Tendril 2016 Octave Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley (OR) $75 91 points
This vineyard in the SeVein project is known for its firm structure, and we see that here. Blended with 21% Cabernet Franc and seeing just one-third new French oak, the aromas are brooding, with notes of cherry, dried herb, black licorice and barrel accents. Ripe fruit flavors follow, while bringing a firm sense of tightly wound tannic structure. It will be best with some time in the cellar. Drink after 2025. Cellar Selection

Three Forks 2019 Gamache Vineyard Rosé Columbia Valley $20 89 points
Pale-salmon in color, with a slight orange tinge, bright aromas of yellow strawberry and melon lead to juicy orange-peel and strawberry flavors. There’s a lot to like.

Time & Direction 2018 Diamond Cutter Columbia Valley $30 92 points
Though labeled as a red wine, Syrah makes up fully 95%, with the rest Mourvèdre. The aromas are effusive, with notes of blueberry, raspberry, white pepper, herb and flower, showing an appealing sense of purity. The silky smooth, fresh-feeling palate more than delivers on all of that promise, while bringing a real sense of freshness. It’s as complete delight and a superb value. Editor’s Choice

Time & Direction 2019 UpUpDownDownLeftRightLeftRightBASelectStart Thunderstone Vineyard Rosé Columbia Valley $22 91 points
This is pale-copper in color. Pleasing (though light) aromas of wet stone and grapefruit lead to fuller-feeling grapefruit and white-peach flavors. A citrusy finish caps it off. It delivers a lot of flavor intensity and length. Editor’s Choice

Time & Direction 2019 Fretboard Corfu Crossing Vineyard Viognier Columbia Valley $25 90 points
Pear and peach aromas leap up out the glass, along with notes of flower, herb and melon. There’s a sleekness and brightness to the white-peach flavors that ups the interest for this often over-weighted and oily variety.

TruthTeller 2017 Pun Yakima Valley $30 90 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) takes the lead on this wine, with the rest equal parts Malbec and Merlot. The aromas are ripe and pure, with notes of blackberry, black cherry, licorice, barrel spice and plum. Full-bodied dark-fruit flavors follow, backed by lightly grainy tannins. Those looking for a fruit-forward, hedonistic wine, look no further.

TruthTeller 2016 The Confidante Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $55 89 points
The aromas provide plenty of intrigue, with notes of macerated raspberry, tobacco leaf, anise and cherry. Plentiful black-cherry flavors follow, with an abundance of firm, slightly grippy tannins providing support. It shows its appellation and variety well. Give it at another few years in bottle or decant to let the tannins settle in.

TruthTeller 2019 Frolic Viognier Yakima Valley $22 88 points
The aromas pop, with notes of cantaloupe, canned peach, fresh flower and freshly peeled orange rind. The palate is sleek in style, with plenty of floral flavors and citrus flavors along with tart acidity. It’s an odd mixture of overripe and underripe fruit.

TruthTeller 2017 The Cynic Syrah Walla Walla Valley $40 88 points
Locked-up on first pour, the aromas open to show notes of blackberry jam, smoke and whiffs of flower. Cherry-pit flavors follow, painting around the edges. Raspberry notes linger on the finish. It’s an intriguing, fruit-forward expression of this variety and appellation.

TruthTeller 2017 Retort Petit Verdot Columbia Valley $40 88 points
Raspberry and cherry-jam aromas are out front. Full-bodied flavors follow with a big grip of firm tannins. It’s a beast of a wine, needing some time and food to tame it. Pair it with roasted pork loin with a cherry glaze.

TruthTeller 2019 Quip Rosé Yakima Valley $17 87 points
Pale-salmon, with a slight orange tinge, the aromas bring notes of tin, strawberry and herb. It’s thick in feel but still has enough acidity to hold it together. It’s a bit reductive at present.

TruthTeller 2017 The Madman Red Blend Columbia Valley $35 86 points
Syrah makes up 60% of this wine, with the rest equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The aromas don’t entirely knit together, with notes of wood spice, funk, smoke and anise, and the palate showing more of the same.

Underground Wine Project 2018 And why am I Mr. Pink? Rosé Columbia Valley $15 86 points
Reductive out of the gate, this wine shows aromas of rock salt and nori in front of cherry, strawberry and watermelon. Apple and slightly leesy-seeming flavors follow. It seems past peak.

W.T. Vintners 2017 Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $49 90 points
Coming from Block 2 of this vineyard, aromas of orange oil, smoked meat, black olive, medicine and fire pit are followed by soft sumptuous savory flavors. Herb and orange-peel notes linger on the finish. It’s a pretty interpretation of this site, bringing a sense of acidity seldom seen.

Walla Walla Vintners 2017 Cut Bank Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $50 91 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s vineyard, located at nearly 1,500 feet in elevation. Raspberry, dark coffee, cherry and bittersweet-chocolate aromas lead to generous, full-feeling coffee and chocolate flavors. Firm, lightly grainy tannins back it up. It’s a classically Vintners’ style wine, best enjoyed with some additional time in the bottle. Drink after 2024. Cellar Selection

Walla Walla Vintners 2017 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $35 91 points
The aromas are expressive, with notes of blueberry pie, spice and herb. Plump expressive blue-fruit flavors follow. It’s a rich, fruit-forward expression of the variety.

Walla Walla Vintners 2018 Sangiovese Columbia Valley $24 91 points
Bright, fresh aromas of raspberry, cranberry and plum are followed by brawny fruit flavors, backed by firm, lightly grainy tannins. A fine sense of acidity backs it up. It has all of the stuffing but needs time in the cellar for the tannins to stretch their legs. Best after 2023.

Walla Walla Vintners 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $28 88 points
Raspberry-compote, tire-rubber, coffee and spice aromas lead to rich, plump fruit flavors and firm tannins that bring a bit of astringency. It has a pleasing sense of freshness. There are good things going on, but they don’t all seem to come together at present. Additional time in bottle should serve it well.

Washington Hills 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $11 88 points
Reserved aromas of plum, berry and gummy lead to plum and black-currant flavors. A pleasing amount of tannin holds it all together. It’s a straightforward, Cabernet quaffer at the right price. Best Buy

Washington Hills 2018 Dry Riesling Washington $11 86 points
The aromas offer notes of pear, lime, diesel and lime leaf, showing a bit of evolution. Just off-dry-drinking Nestea Lemon Iced tea flavors follow. The acid balances them out well. Best Buy

Washington Hills 2018 Late Harvest Riesling Washington $11 84 points
Apple-cider aromas are out front, followed by notes of peach, dried rose, and medicine. Sweet lemon iced tea flavors follow. The palate brings enjoyment but can’t offset the disjointed aromas.

Washington Hills 2019 Riesling Washington $11 84 points
Aromas of diesel, medicine and dried rose petal lead to flavors that show more of the same. Lively acidity runs throughout. It’s all an uncomfortable mix.

Washington Hills 2018 Chardonnay Washington $11 84 points
The aromas offer notes of tin, medicine, diesel and peach—not identifiably Chardonnay. A creamy-feeling and creamy-tasting palate follows. Butterscotch notes linger on the finish.

Waterbrook 2018 Syrah Columbia Valley $15 89 points
Aromas of dark cherry and barrel spice lead to a full, fleshy palate. The oak is more primary than desired for the variety, but it still delivers a lot of enjoyment. A light medicinal note emerges with some time open.

Waterbrook 2018 Icon Viognier Columbia Valley $26 88 points
Coming from Canyon Vineyard Ranch, aromas of flower, Creamsicle and barrel spice are followed by full-bodied ripe apricot flavors, with plentiful barrel accents. A warm toasty finish follows. It shows the variety’s riper side, with the oak playing a prominent role.

Waterbrook 2018 Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley $18 88 points
Aromas of vanilla, toast peach are out front. Baking-spice notes follow. Full-bodied, almost nectarous fruit flavors follow. Toast notes linger on the finish, which brings some warmth. The oak drives much of the style, but for those looking for a full-bodied, oaky style of Chardonnay, look no further.

Waterbrook 2017 AVA Series Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $25 88 points
Aromas of date, anise and spice are followed by quite ripe fruit flavors. A tight coil of tannin ties it together. The fruit seems to have overripened.

Willow 2016 Boushey Vineyards Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $0 89 points
The aromas are appealing, with notes of flower, fresh and dried herb, green pepper and dark raspberry. Plump, ripe fruit flavors follow, showing the warmth of the vintage but also the purity of this producer.

Willow 2016 Boushey Vineyards Merlot-Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $0 87 points
This is mostly Merlot (92%), with the Franc providing support. Tire-rubber aromas are out front, causing some distraction, with ripe raspberry and gummy bear notes following. Quite ripe fruit flavors follow. It doesn’t all knit together, but there are some interesting things happening.

Sean P. Sullivan

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