The 40 most exciting Washington wines of 2020

In 2020, I reviewed nearly 1,300 Washington wines for Wine Enthusiast magazine. Below are the forty wines that stood out the most.

Note that I have titled this list the “most exciting” Washington wines of 2020. This is not to say that there weren’t other wines that I scored higher than the wines below or that weren't equally impressive. These wines just each had a little something extra.

I started by simply writing down from memory wines I recalled from across the year that truly separated themselves in some fashion. Maybe it was a new variety for the state or a top quality example of a well-established one. Maybe it was the nexus of quality and price. Maybe it was an exploration of a new region, an offering from a new producer, or a different style. In some cases, it was a combination of these things. Then I checked the Wine Enthusiast database to see what I had missed.

My intention starting out was to make a top 25 list, but when it quickly swelled well in excess of that, I decided to give a nod to Casey Kasem and go with a Top 40. In a few cases there were wines tasted late in the year that I absolutely would have included on this list, but the reviews have not yet been published. I will sing their praises elsewhere once those reviews are out.

Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. I have included for each the Wine Enthusiast score and review (The What); some brief information about why it’s on this list (The Why); and then the wine’s current availability (Availability) as best I could understand it from the winery’s website.

Without further ado, I give you the 40 most exciting Washington wines of 2020.

Ago 2019 Cor Estate Vineyard Tocai Friulano Columbia Gorge $32 92 points 

The What: This is a new variety within the state, and what a debut. All fermented in neutral oak, fresh aromas of pear, tangerine, mineral, citrus and flower yield exquisitely pure flavors, with high-wire lemony acidity connecting it all together. A gorgeous wine, its sense of vibrancy separates it. Editor's Choice
The Why: Columbia Gorge grown Tocai Friulano? Yes!
Availability: Sold out

Animale 2016 Stainless Steel Aged Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $26 93 points 

The What: This is the only example of this variety I am aware of from the state all aged in stainless steel. The aromas offer uncommon purity, depth and detail, with notes of strawberry, raspberry, herb, whole orange and whiffs of cranberry. The palate is layered and exquisitely balanced and has a long, orange- and cranberry-filled finish. It’s spectacular—an accomplishment. Editor's Choice
The Why: This wine changes the way one thinks about what is possible for Cabernet Franc in Washington.
Availability: Check with winery

Avennia 2018 Justine Yakima Valley $40 96 points 

The What: Grenache (61%, Upland) takes the lead in this wine, followed by Mourvèdre (23%, Heart of the Hill) and Syrah (Oldfield). There’s plentiful huckleberry aromas along with notes of black raspberry, dried herb, black pepper, flower, smoked meat and bittersweet chocolate, showing nuance and detail. The palate is swoon-worthy and knee-buckling, bringing depth and balance along with seemingly endless length. It’s shockingly good, with the outrageous balance what separates it. Best from 2022–2027. Editor's Choice 

The Why: Quite simply the best Rhône-style blend Washington has produced to date.
Availability: Available

Betz Family 2018 Bésoleil Columbia Valley $48 94 points 

The What: Grenache makes up 46% of this wine, with Mourvèdre and Counoise each accounting for 24% and the balance being Syrah. With the majority of the fruit coming from Olsen Vineyard in Yakima Valley, the aromas explode from the glass, with notes of raspberry, smoked meat, huckleberry and white pepper. The palate has dense, textured, layered fruit flavors but still remains fleet of foot. There is a compelling sense of freshness and texture to it. It’s a complete dazzler. Editor’s Choice
The Why: The most compelling Bésoleil Betz Family has ever made - and that is saying something.
Availability: Available

Buty 2018 60% Sémillon 21% Sauvignon 19% Muscadelle Columbia Valley $25 93 points
The What: Most Bordeaux-style white wines from Washington are Sauvignon Blanc heavy. This one flips the script, along with a heavy dose of Muscadelle that a few wineries in the state are working with. The aromas bring immediate appeal, with notes of whole orange, fig, herb and lees. A full-feeling, textured, flavorful palate follows, redolent with fig flavors. A lingering finish caps it off. It’s glorious with a long life ahead of it. Hard to keep your hands off now but will be best after 2023. Cellar Selection
The Why: Most Bordeaux Blanc in Washington leads with Sauvignon Blanc. This one flips the script and is both delicious out of the gate and promises great aging potential.
Availability: Available

Cadence 2017 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain $45 93 points
The What: Cabernet Franc (42%) is in the lead on this wine, with Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), Petit Verdot (17%) and Merlot following. Brooding aromas of black currant, anise, dried and fresh herb, scorched earth and boysenberry lead to a tightly packed, highly structured palate, with mouthwatering flavors. It will be timeless, but best after 2026. Cellar Selection
The Why: No one does it like Ben Smith at Cadence in terms of purity, flavor, and structure.
Availability: Available

Cairdeas 2019 Picardan Lake Chelan $30 92 points
The What: This is the first bottling in the state of this variety. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of lime zest, whole tangerine, lemon and schist. Puckering, sleek, high-acid lemon and lime flavors follow. Editor's Choice
The Why: The inaugural offering of this variety from Washington.
Availability: Sold out

Chateau 2019 Ste Michelle Riesling Columbia Valley $9 91 points
The What: The aromas intoxicate, with notes of white peach, lime, jasmine and flower. Off-dry leaning sweeter stone fruit and Nestea Lemon Iced Tea flavors follow, with a strong sense of acidity threading through it. The balance and intensity are exquisite. It’s everything one could want from this variety. Best Buy
The Why: Consistently the state’s best value, the 2019 vintage takes things to another level.
Availability: Available

DeLille 2019 Roussanne Red Mountain $35 95 points 

The What: The aromas are intoxicating, with notes of apricot, sea shell and herb showing complexity. The flavors display texture, depth, purity, balance and length. The acid balance in particular is exquisite. It’s an accomplishment for this variety and for white wines in the state. It is delicious now but has a long life ahead of it. Best from 2022–2026. Cellar Selection
The Why: The highest quality white wine I have ever had from Washington.
Availability: Available

Devison 2018 Southwind Vineyard Malbec Walla Walla Valley $49 94 points 

The What: Varietal Malbec is a rarity in the valley. This one is single block, native fermented and saw only 20% new oak. The aromas take some time to get going, but once they do, they bring notes of purple flower, blue fruit and crushed rock. Lipsmacking fruit flavors follow, showing intensity and vibrancy as well as exquisite balance and length. It’s shockingly good, a new style of higher altitude Malbec for Washington with all the goodness that brings. Decant if drinking in the near term. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
The Why: High elevation Malbec that rises above other offerings from the state structurally and qualitatively.

Availability: Available

Eight Bells 2017 Red Willow Vineyard Sangiovese Yakima Valley $25 92 points
The What: From vines planted in the early 1990s, this wine kicks off with aromas of sour cherry, thyme and dried orange peel. Bright, pure, laser-focused flavors follow on the palate. It has a lovely sense of vitality, and would do well with some time in the cellar or a short decant. Editor's Choice
The Why: Achingly pure red fruit flavors.
Availability: Sold out

Fall Line 2016 Cirque Red Wine Yakima Valley $32 93 points
The What: Cabernet Franc (65%) takes the lead on this wine, with Cabernet Sauvignon (29%) and Merlot following. With fruit sourced from Two Blondes and Dineen, there a purity here that thoroughly enchants. Aromas of whole green pepper, fresh black currant, flower and cherry lead to palate-coating fruit flavors that bring a dazzling sense of purity, layering, depth, dimension and density, while retaining a compelling sense of balance. It’s a sparkling diamond that shows many facets and will stand the test of time. Editor's Choice
The Why: Bright, fresh Yakima Valley fruit unencumbered by any new oak influence.
Availability: Check with winery

Gorman 2018 Evil Twin Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $65 93 points 

The What: An 80-20 blend, the aromas provide appeal, with notes of iron and other minerals along with plum and dark fruit. Dense, layered, rich blue- and black-fruit flavors follow, with plenty of tannins providing the scaffolding. It’s a hedonistic delight, made in this producer’s trademark power-packed style. Editor’s Choice
The Why: Rich, ripe, delicious Gorman goodness.
Availability: Available

Gramercy 2019 Picpoul Walla Walla Valley $20 92 points
The What: Aromas of citrus zest, whole lemon and wet stone are followed by medium-bodied tart and puckering white-grapefruit flavors backed by electric acidity. This wine has always been a standout, but this vintage brings more of everything: more aromatic and flavor complexity and even more acidity. It requires food alongside it to be fully appreciated. Pair it with grilled halibut with a lemon oregano sauce. Editor’s Choice
The Why: A big blast of puckering acid with plenty of flavor to go with it.
Availability: Sold out

Grosgrain 2018 XL Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 92 points
The What: This wine was fermented 25% whole cluster and aged in puncheon (50% new). The aromas pop in notes of flower, herb and plum. The flavors are fresh and light, with plentiful coffee accents. It brings a compelling sense of intensity, freshness and balance. Editor's Choice
The Why: High elevation Walla Walla Valley Syrah made in a restrained style.
Availability: Available

Horsepower 2017 High Contrast Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $121 96 points 

The What: The aromas explode from the glass, with notes of fire pit, potpourri, black olive, wet stone, dried porcini and stone. The palate is sumptuous, layered, elegant and intensely flavorful, showing abundant savory notes. A lingering black olive and earthy finish caps it off. Best after 2025. Cellar Selection
The Why: One of the very best wines to come out of the 2017 vintage.
Availability: Sold out

Jaine 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $24 92 points
The What: This is a new, white wine dedicated winery and a sensational debut. The aromas are compelling, with notes of lemon pith, herb and the underside of a pineapple, unmistakably Sauvignon Blanc. The flavors are generous, intense, with a lot of texture. Mouthwatering acidity finishes it off. It’s a big-time winner—everything you could want from this variety. Bravo! Editor’s Choice
The Why: Tasty, tart, and flavorful - goodness in a glass.
Availability: Available

Kerloo 2018 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Gorge $38 93 points
The What: This wine announces itself as coming from Celilo Vineyard from the first sniff, with notes of mineral, talc and lemon. All aged in neutral oak, the palate offers full feeling but not overweighted, achingly pure flavors framed by vibrant, electric acidity. It’s a completely transparent look at this vineyard and variety. Editor's Choice
The Why: One of Washington’s most distinctive sites seen through the eyes of one of the state’s most distinctive winemakers.
Availability: Available

Kevin White 2018 La Paysanne Mourvèdre Yakima Valley $38 95 points
The What: Sourced from a mixture of Boushey, Sugarloaf and Olsen vineyards, the aromas draw you into the glass with notes of peppery spice, bramble, dried herbs and black cherry, showing an appealing sense of purity. The palate brings extraordinary depth, balance, intensity and length to the peppery flavors. It’s nothing short of an accomplishment, with the balance and near endless finish being what separates it. Editor's Choice
The Why: If you were to look up Washington Mourvèdre in the wine dictionary, this would be the picture beside it.
Availability: Sold out

L’Ecole 2018 Ferguson Walla Walla Valley $70 94 points
The What: Cabernet Sauvignon comprises 55% of this wine, with the balance Merlot (24%), Cabernet Franc (11%), and then equal parts Malbec and Petit Verdot. It’s locked up tightly at present, with notes of cherry, black tea, raspberry and spice. The fruit flavors show sophistication. It’s packed tightly with fruit, acid, and tannin. It will have a very long life ahead of it. Don’t go near it until at least 2030. It will have an easy decade-plus of great drinking beyond that. Cellar Selection
The Why: Quality, intensity, balance, structure, and seemingly endless aging potential.
Availability: Available

Leonetti Cellar 2017 Loess Walla Walla Valley $138 96 points
The What: Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 77% of this wine, with the rest Malbec (15%) and Petit Verdot. The aromas pop, with notes of dark cherry, cranberry, scorched earth, barrel spice and cedar. Palate-enveloping, textured, rich, dense flavors follow. Firm, sneaky tannins and mouthwatering acids back it up. One for the ages, this is more about sophistication than brawn, though it brings plenty of both. Best after 2030, with a decade beyond that. Cellar Selection
The Why: A compelling, extremely high quality look at this Walla Walla Valley vineyard.
Availability: Sold out

Liminal 2018 High Canyon Series WeatherEye Vineyard Grenache Red Mountain $75 97 points
The What: The first thing one notices about this wine is the depth of color for the variety. Coming from the Amphitheater block, the aromas pop in notes of black raspberry, rose petal, pomegranate and crushed rock. Red and black fruit flavors undulate across the palate, showing deftness, richness and detail. The finish goes on as long—longer even than one cares to count. Throughout it all, it retains a sense of balance and freshness. It’s a yardstick against which future Washington Grenache will be measured. Editor’s Choice
The Why: The highest quality Grenache I have ever had from the Washington side of the Columbia Valley.
Availability: Sold out

Lobo Hills 2017 Right Bank Blend Columbia Valley $20 91 points
The What: This is Merlot blended with Cabernet Sauvignon (18%) and Cabernet Franc (9%).Coffee, cherry and herb aromas are followed by a pleasingly reserved style. Coffee notes linger on the finish. Editor’s Choice
The Why: Superb quality and an outrageous value.
Availability: Sold out

Luke 2018 Reserve Syrah Wahluke Slope $45 94 points
The What: Blackberry and other dark-fruit aromas meld with notes of smoked meat, coffee and mineral. The palate packs a big wallop of rich, layered black-fruit flavors, with plenty of tannic structure to provide support. It’s a power-packed, hedonistic delight. Editor’s Choice
The Why: A no-holds-barred, rich, intense, layered Syrah from this under-appreciated appellation.
Availability: Available

Mark Ryan 2018 Little Sister Merlot Red Mountain 94 points
The What: 100% varietal, generous aromas of plum, raspberry, mocha, spice and flecks of herb are followed by palate coating, textured, layered, outrageously delicious fruit flavors. There’s plenty of mid-palate richness and depth but also freshness. It hangs on for a long time on the finish. Give it a few years in the cellar to see it at its best. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
The Why: A statement on just how unabashedly delicious Washington Merlot can be.
Availability: Available

Passing Time 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $85 94 points
The What: Fruit from Champoux Vineyard makes up 47% of this wine, with 46% coming from Discovery and a dash from Klipsun on Red Mountain. The aromas are vibrant, with notes of roasted coffee bean, dark raspberry, scorched earth, barrel spice, leaf and black currant, showing plenty of complexity and nuance. The flavors bring a sense of elegance, detail and depth, along with a creamy feel. Sneaky firm tannins back it up. A long list of superlatives could describe it. Just a baby now, it requires time in the cellar to grow up. But what a future it promises. Best from 2027–2037. Cellar Selection 

The Why: Some of the most distinctive Cabernet coming out of Washington.
Availability: Sold out

Quiddity 2018 Mourvèdre Cur Non Columbia Valley $35 93 points
The What: This is an inaugural release from this winery, and it commands attention. The aromas bring notes of yellow raspberry, rose hips, herb and red plum. The purity of the flavors and the texture are completely arresting, drinking like a bowl of fresh fruit. It’s a complete knockout.
The Why: Outrageously delicious Mourvèdre from a new producer at a price that won’t break the bank? Yes please.
Availability: Available

Quilceda Creek 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $200 96 points
The What: This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, with fruit coming from Horse Heaven Hills sites Champoux, Lake Wallula, Palengat, and Wallula. It’s aromatically brooding out of the gate, with notes of cherry meats, barrel spice and incense, not yet ready to reveal its charms. Dense, focused, layered, almost creamy-feeling fruit flavors follow. It is coiled up tightly right now but has all of the stuffing to go the distance and then some. Best from 2030–2037. Cellar Selection
The Why: A singular expression of Washington Cabernet with a very long life ahead of it.
Availability: Sold out

Reynvaan 2018 Estate White In the Rocks Vineyard Grenache Blanc Walla Walla Valley $60 93 points
The What: This estate’s red wines grab the headlines, but the winemakers are quietly producing some of the most exciting whites in North America. Aromas of wet stone, almond, lees and spice are followed by seamless, textured flavors that carry on a seemingly endless finish. The balance is impeccable, with a backbone of lemony acidity sustaining it. Editor's Choice
The Why: Unlocks the potential of Walla Walla whites.
Availability: Sold out

Rocky Pond 2017 Stratastone Double D Vineyard Columbia Valley $35 91 points
The What: This wine comes from the Rocky Reach area, 15 miles southwest of Lake Chelan, where, unlike the rest of the Columbia Valley, the bedrock is granite. It’s a blend of Grenache (48%), Syrah (33%) and Mourvèdre (19%), with intriguing aromas of raspberry, herbs, orange peel, cherry and whiffs of spice, leading to a flavorful palate that shows a sense of intensity and restraint. Give it some time to open up, and it shines brightly. Best after 2023. Editor's Choice
The Why: An exploration of a new growing region, Rocky Reach, south of Chelan. 
Availability: Available

Rôtie Cellars 2019 Northern White Walla Walla Valley $32 92 points
The What: This wine is about two-thirds Marsanne and one third Roussanne. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of pear, nectarine, sea shell, fig and flower. The palate is sleek, tart and focused, with racy, mouthwatering acidity and a pleasing depth of flavor. Editor's Choice
The Why: A Marsanne dominant blend from Walla Walla Valley. 
Availability: Available

Savage Grace 2018 Dineen Vineyard Côt Rattlesnake Hills $30 93 points
The What: The achingly pure aromas of wild strawberry, ground rock, earth, spice and herb are arresting. The palate brings all that and more, with notes of herb, and spice that show delicacy, purity and restraint along with a whole lot of acidity. This is as far from a cocktail wine as it gets and needs food alongside it to be fully appreciated. Paired it with grilled lamb chops. Editor's Choice
The Why: A distinctive, food friendly offering of Malbec.
Availability: Available

Seven Hills Winery 2018 SHW Founding Vineyard Merlot Walla Walla Valley $50 93 points
The What: 14.9% alcohol 93 This is a Washington Merlot prototype, with aromas of red and black raspberry, milk chocolate, cedar and anise. The flavors bring depth, plushness and intensity, with lightly chalky tannins backing it all up. it’s flat out delicious, with the appeal as much about feel as flavor. Give a short decant if drinking in the near term. Editor’s Choice
The Why: Top quality Merlot from some of the oldest plantings in the valley.
Availability: Available

Sightglass 2018 Red Blend Columbia Valley $25 92 points
The What: Winemaker Sean Boyd made his name at Woodinville Wine Cellars in part by his Little Bear Creek wine that was one of the best values in the state. This is his new winery’s iteration. Made of 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 20% Malbec and 5% Syrah, the wine has plentiful aromas of coffee grounds, dried herb, dark chocolate and cherry, which are followed by well-balanced flavors that show density, length and plenty of structure that’s pleasingly chewy. It’s thoroughly enchanting. Editor's Choice
The Why: A deliciously hedonistic offering that drinks like a wine twice the price.
Availability: Check with winery

Soos Creek 2017 Artist Series No. 17 Columbia Valley $30 93 points
The What: Cabernet Franc makes up 65% of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. With fruit coming from Ciel du Cheval, Dineen, Klipsun, Slide Mountain and Weinbau vineyards, garden herb, plum, fresh black cherry dark chocolate and light barrel notes are followed by focused fruit and barrel flavors. A tight coil of chewy tannins ties it all together. One for the cellar. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection
The Why: Soos Creek, as always, providing a quality/price combination few can match.
Availability: Available

Structure 2018 Bauhaus Syrah Columbia Valley $30 93 points
The What: A blend of Wallula (60%) and Stillwater Creek fruit, the aromas are captivating, with notes of dark raspberry, bramble and herb that show a piercing sense of purity. The flavors are dazzling, showing intensity and depth but also elegance and balance. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s a frankly delicious wine, but it’s the structure—and the quality at this price—that impresses most. Best after 2023 with an extremely long life ahead of that. Cellar Selection
The Why: Captivating aromas and flavors at a more than reasonable tariff.
Availability: Check with winery

Syncline 2018 Estate Grown Steep Creek Ranch Red Blend Columbia Gorge $60 93 points
The What: This wine is a blend of 48% Mondeuse, 28% Syrah, 14% Grenache and 10% Gamay Noir. The aromas aren’t ready to reveal their charms at first, with light notes of dried herb, raspberry, crushed flower, mineral and cranberry that open over time. The flavors are medium bodied, tart, puckering and focused. Firm but polished tannins back it up. It brings a vibrant sense of acidity seldom seen in the state on red wines, along with a pleasing rusticity and plenty of crunchy red fruit. It’s a statement wine for this appellation. Editor's Choice
The Why: One of the most compelling red wines to ever come out of the Columbia Gorge.
Availability: Sold out

Virtue 2018 Sincerity Syrah Columbia Valley $25 93 points
The What: All of the fruit for this wine comes from Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. The aromas pop, with notes of freshly chopped parsley, whole tangerine, fresh boysenberry and smoked meat. Rich, layered flavors follow. It brings intensity and depth, but there is still plenty of freshness. But it’s the purity and lengthy finish that captivate.
The Why: A new producer making delicious, pure, terrifically priced wines.
Availability: Available

Waters 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $50 94 points
The What: This 100% varietal wine offers aromas of chocolate, mushroom, cedar, dried herb, cherry, dried lavender and umami—a unique profile for a Washington Cabernet. The palate is action packed in a rich, textured cherry flavor that coats the palate from end to end, lingering on the coffee-filled finish. Best from 2027–2033. Editor's Choice
The Why: A classically Waters wine with terrific aging potential.
Availability: Upcoming release

W.T. Vintners 2019 Underwood Mountain Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Columbia Gorge $22 92 points
The What: Left on skins for 30 hours, the wine is then aged 60% in stainless steel with the rest in neutral barrel. Whole lemon, wet stone, pear, nut and talc aromas lead to a flavorful, textured palate backed by a vibrant sense of acidity. It’s flat-out delicious. Editor's Choice
The Why: 750mls of evidence of Gruner Veltliner's potential in Washington.

Availability: Sold out

Wine Enthusiast Reviews for November 2020

Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for November 2020. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read information on how I review wines here. Read about the Wine Enthusiast rating system here. Read about how to interpret my scores here. All of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide. See previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast's on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.

117 wines reviewed in the November issue of Wine Enthusiast.

If there were a Washington Cabernet Sauvignon Hall of Fame, Mike Januik (Januik Winery, Novelty Hill) would surely have an entire wing dedicated to him. Few in the state show such clear mastery of the variety (Januik 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $40, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Januik 2017 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $55, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Januik 2017 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $40, 91 points; Januik 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30, 90 points). Oh, and Mike's son Andrew is making a name for himself with Cabernet too (Andrew Januik 2017 Stone Cairn Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $40, 92 points, Editor’s Choice).    

But let’s not forget Januik’s facility with white wines, with his Chardonnay consistently at the top of the class and also a superb value (Januik 2018 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $30, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Novelty Hill 2018 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $23, 92 points, Editor’s Choice). Other recent offerings include delicious examples of Sauvignon Blanc (Novelty Hill 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $20, 90 points; Januik 2019 Sagemoor Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $20, 91 points, Editor’s Choice); Roussanne (Novelty Hill 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Roussanne Columbia Valley $23, 90 points); and Viognier (Novelty Hill 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Viognier Columbia Valley $23, 90 points).

One of the joys of following Washington wine over the years is watching people’s dreams become reality, and so it is with Syncline Winery. For many years, James and Poppie Mantone have spoke of wanting to make wines with “crunchy red fruit” from their estate vineyard in the Columbia Gorge. Their 2018 Steep Creek Ranch wine is exactly that. It is a stunning, unique, classically Syncline wine (Syncline 2018 Estate Grown Steep Creek Ranch Red Blend Columbia Gorge $60, 93 points, Editor’s Choice). The winery’s Cinsault is also outrageously delicious (Syncline 2018 McKinley Springs Vineyard Cinsault Horse Heaven Hills $40, 93 points, Editor’s Choice).

But don’t miss out on the current Syncline whites, which are some of the best the winery has made (Syncline 2019 Bloxom Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Columbia Valley $25, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Syncline 2019 Boushey Vineyard Picpoul Yakima Valley $25, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Syncline 2019 Boushey Vineyard Grenache Blanc Yakima Valley $30, 90 points).

Speaking of white wines, Rôtie Cellars has long captivated red wine lovers with its Northern and Southern Blends, along with its Grenache and Mourvèdre. However, if you haven’t had the pleasure of trying the winery’s whites, get thee hence. They are some of the most thrilling, distinctive white wines being made in Washington right now (Rôtie Cellars 2019 Southern Walla Walla Valley $32, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Rôtie Cellars 2019 Northern Walla Walla Valley $32, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Rôtie Cellars 2019 Grenache Blanc Washington $32, 92 points, Editor’s Choice).

Michael Savage at Savage Grace continues to make singular wines. Cabernet Franc as a white wine? Yes (Savage Grace 2019 Blanc Franc Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $24, 91 points, Editor’s Choice). Red Willow Cabernet Sauvignon with no new oak? Yup (Savage Grace 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $42, 91 points, Editor’s Choice). The winery’s 2018 Dineen Malbec meanwhile is transcendent (Savage Grace 2018 Dineen Vineyard Côt Rattlesnake Hills $30, 93 points, Editor’s Choice). I would be remiss not to mention the Copeland Cabernet Franc (Savage Grace 2018 Copeland Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rattlesnake Hills $30, 92 points, Editor’s Choice).

Washington doesn’t make a lot of Semillon period let alone vineyard-designated bottles. These two wines from new Walla Walla producer Itä are attention getters, a study in comparison and contrast, with one fermented and aged in neutral oak and the other in stainless steel. The bright acid of the 2019 vintage frames them both (Itä 2019 2 of 2 Les Collines Vineyard Sémillon Walla Walla Valley $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Itä 2019 1 of 2 Les Collines Vineyard Sémillon Walla Walla Valley $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice).

While winemaker Jamie Brown stepped away from Waters Winery and 21 Grams in 2020, his work remains, and two upcoming releases are some of the very best wines to come out of the 2016 vintage (Waters 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $50, 94 points, Editor’s Choice; 21 Grams 2016 Washington $125, 94 points, Editor’s Choice).

Since establishing itself in Washington, Canvasback has established itself largely on the strength of its Cabernet Sauvignon. Quietly, however, the winery is making some captivating, distinctive, dry-style Riesling (Canvasback 2019 Riesling Columbia Valley $30, 91 points).

On the value side, the Dunham Cellars Three Legged Red has never tasted better than it does in the 2018 vintage (Dunham 2018 Three Legged Red Blend Washington $19, 91 points). Similarly, J. Bookwalter’s Notebook is always a value standout, but the 14NV offering takes it to another level (J. Bookwalter NV Notebook 14NV Red Blend Columbia Valley $15, 90 points, Best Buy). Meanwhile the Readers Cabernet offers unadulterated hedonism (J. Bookwalter 2018 Readers Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $28, 91 points, Editor’s Choice).

Without further ado.

* * *

21 Grams 2016 Washington $125 94 points
Like many wines from this vintage, and certainly every vintage of 21 Grams, this is more about the future than the present. With the heart of this wine Cabernet from Cold Creek Vineyard, the aromas offer notes of spice, bittersweet chocolate, coffee, assorted herb, graphite and gravel. The palate is soft and silky in texture, with a core of coffee, cherry and herb notes that only become more rich as the wine opens. The finish goes on endlessly. Bright acidity and firm tannins keep it all in focus. It’s a classic. Don’t touch it until at least 2027, and it will drink well for an easy decade beyond that. Editor’s Choice

21 Grams 2015 Washington $125 92 points
Coming from the state’s hottest vintage on record, the fruit seems ever so slightly dried out on the aromas, with notes of dried cherry in front of herb, bittersweet chocolate and spice. The palate brings a reserved but rich styling, with dry chocolate and cherry notes. There’s a pleasing sense of acidity, despite the warmth of the vintage. Give it a few years in the cellar.

Abeja 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $60 92 points
Aromas of barrel spice, coffee, cherry, bittersweet chocolate, graphite and sautéed herb are followed by textured cherry and chocolate flavors. There’s a pleasing sense of brightness to the acidity and deftness to the rich, creamy coffee and bright cherry flavors that keep the interest high. Plenty of tannic structure holds it all together. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s far from a big bruiser and needs some time to all integrate but brings and abundance of rewards. Best after 2026 with a very long life beyond that. Editor’s Choice

Abeja 2016 Heather Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $68 92 points
The aromas offer notes of coffee, pink peppercorn, cedar, bittersweet chocolate, sautéed herb, barrel spice, coffee and dark cherry. There’s a pleasingly open texture to the coffee and cherry flavors. Lightly grainy tannins provide support. Give it a few years in the cellar for them to smooth out, and it will deliver. Editor’s Choice

Abeja 2018 Chardonnay Washington $45 90 points
The aromas offer notes of toast, barrel char and stone fruit. The palate brings a ripe peach flavor that maintains a sleek profile out of the gate, filling out over time.

Abeja 2017 Merlot Columbia Valley $50 88 points
Char, coffee, chocolate and whiffs of tire rubber are out front. Cherry and chocolate bar flavors follow. It hasn’t integrated at present.

Andrew Januik 2017 Stone Cairn Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $40 92 points
Brooding aromas of cherry, scorched earth, herb and bittersweet chocolate are followed by plump, ripe cherry flavors backed by tannins that are combed to a fine sheen. Bright acidity accents it all. It’s a delicious offering of the variety. Editor’s Choice

Andrew Januik 2017 Lady Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $50 92 points
Coffee, cherry, chocolate, scorched earth and herb aromas lead to focused, fruitful cherry and chocolate flavors. The bright acidity of the vintage keeps the interest way up. Editor’s Choice

Andrew Januik 2017 Los Molinos Columbia Valley $60 90 points
Grenache comprises 60% of this wine, with the rest Syrah (22%) and Mourvèdre. Aromas of vanilla, raspberry, coffee and dried herb lead to fruit and barrel flavors that bring a sense of texture that heightens its appeal. It exhibits the fresh acidity of the vintage.

Battle Creek 2018 Reserve Chardonnay Willamette Valley $42 90 points
The aromas boast notes of corn silk, pumpkin spice, candy corn, peach and whiffs of pineapple. The palate shows an exquisite sense of balance, with the fruit flavors heightened by lemony acidity.

Battle Creek 2019 Winemaker's White Blend White Blend Willamette Valley $28 90 points
The aromas pull you into the glass, with notes of wet stone, satsuma and dried rose petal. It drinks off dry, with a pleasing sense of tension between the stone fruit and citrus flavors and a compelling mouthfeel. A flavorful finish caps it off.

Battle Creek 2018 Reserve Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley $26 88 points
A very pretty pale peach color, the aromas bring notes of wilted flower, smoke, dried rose petal and cherry. Smoky notes linger on the finish.

Battle Creek 2019 Unconditional Blanc Pinot Noir Oregon $28 87 points
Fruit forward aromas of tangerine, tropical fruit and pear lead to lightly smoky pear flavors. It’s interesting but doesn’t seem entirely settled.

Canoe Ridge 2018 The Expedition Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $15 88 points
The aromas are fruit forward, with notes of plum, freshly peeled satsuma and flower, with the palate showing more of the same. It’s a pleasantly fruity wine, with satsuma aromas and flavors the driver.

Canoe Ridge 2019 Limited Edition Cinsault Canyon Vineyard Ranch Rosé Yakima Valley $22 86 points
The aromas offer notes of toast, vanilla, baking spice and strawberry, showing a lot of barrel influence. The palate shows more of the same. The wood gets in the way.

Canvasback 2019 Riesling Columbia Valley $30 91 points
This wine still hasn’t fully settled in, showing reduction initially. Behind it are aromas of lime and wet slate. The palate brings mouthwatering, electric acidity to the supremely flavorful lemon-lime flavors. Decant if drinking in the immediate term.

Canvasback 2019 Rosé Walla Walla Valley $30 89 points
There’s plenty to chew on on the aromas, with notes of pear, citrus, strawberry and cream. Broad, heavy feeling strawberry flavors. It gets a bit bogged down through the middle, but the acid picks it back up.

Canvasback 2017 Grand Passage Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $84 88 points
Aromas of whole orange and orange zest are followed by notes of dried black currant and cherry, with the fruit seeming ever so slightly desiccated. The palate shows more of the same, along with a zip of acidity. It is all a strange mix.

Castle Rock 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $11 88 points
Plum, dried herb, gravel, smoke and raspberry aromas are out front. There’s a pleasing quality to the red fruit flavors that deliver above their price. Best Buy

Castle Rock 2018 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $10 85 points
Aromas of flower, char and apple carry to the medium-bodied palate. It’s a straight-forward easy drinker. Best Buy

Cavatappi 2019 Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley $13 90 points
The aromas are light, with notes of freshly cut yellow apple and pear followed by sleek, pleasing, fruit forward flavors that bring a bright sense of acidity. Acid and freshness are the drivers. Pair it with scallop ceviche with generous amounts of lime. Best Buy

Cavatappi 2015 Maddalena Red Willow Vineyard Nebbiolo Yakima Valley $32 88 points
Examples of this variety are rare in the state. The aromas offer notes of barrel spice, tire rubber and cherry. The palate is lightly creamy in feel with a firm sense of tannic structure and a whole lot of acidity that this variety brings. The barrel influence is a little too overt, but the rest is lovely.

Cavatappi 2015 Molly’s Cuvée Red Willow Vineyard Sangiovese Yakima Valley $25 88 points
The barrel spice, leather, dried cranberry, tire rubber and dried herb aromas show typicity. There’s a pleasant brightness to the tart fruit flavors and firm tannins, backed by lively acidity. There’s an Old World sensibility to it, and it will be best enjoyed at the dinner table. Pair it with grilled lamb chops with a cranberry/cherry glaze.

Dunham 2018 Three Legged Red Blend Washington $19 91 points
The nose of this wine is loaded with aromas of savory herb, raspberry and cherry. The palate brings lush, fruit-forward flavors that deliver a big impact. It’s currently tight in tannins and bright in acidity, but has impressive stuffing for a wine at this price. Give it a short decant if drinking in the near term.

Dunham 2016 XXII Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $50 91 points
The coffee, cherry, dark chocolate, vanilla, mushroom and fresh herb aromas provide appeal. The palate brings juicy, plentiful cherry and barrel spice flavors, with brawny tannins backing it all up. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It has a nice yum factor and a long life in front of it.

Dunham 2017 Trutina Columbia Valley $29 89 points
Merlot (54%) makes up over half of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (42%) and bits of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The aromas are a bit reductive out of the gate, with notes of tire rubber followed by dark roasted coffee bean, woodspice, vanilla, savory herb and raspberry. The flavors are a mixture of fruit and barrel, with the former exhibiting notes of mushroom and savory herb.

Dunham 2019 Rosé Columbia Valley $20 88 points
A pretty pale peach color, this wine shows some reduction out of the gate that distracts. Behind that are notes of melon and strawberry. An acid driven palate follows. It hasn’t all come together at present.

Dunham 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $22 88 points
This wine is still settling in, with reductive notes up front. Beyond that are notes of banana, pear, citrus and herb. Passion fruit and citrus flavors follow with a strong acidic streak. It’s hard to get a sense of where it’s going at present.

Dunham 2017 Lewis Estate Vineyard Riesling Columbia Valley $19 88 points
Diesel, lime and green apple aromas are followed by sleek fruit flavors backed by tart, racy acidity. The acidity is lifted but it seems evolved for its age.

Elephant Seven 2018 Yellow Bird Vineyard Grenache Walla Walla Valley $30 91 points
Blended with 20% Syrah, the aromas pull you into the glass, with notes of raspberry, thistle, blue fruit and dried herb. Full feeling, ripe, textured fruit flavors follow. A pleasing snap of acidity stitches it all together. Editor’s Choice

Elephant Seven 2018 River Rock Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $42 90 points
The aromas pop, with notes of blueberry pie, dark raspberry, fresh roasted coffee bean and spice. Ripe, rich blue fruit flavors follow, showing the soft, velvety feel of the Rocks District sub-appellation. It’s a hedonistic offering of the variety, more fruitful than many from this area.

Elephant Seven 2018 Cosmic Reflection Yellow Bird Vineyard Walla Walla Valley $20 88 points
This wine is a blend of half Mourvèdre and half Syrah. The aromas bring notes of raspberry, cranberry, white pepper and tire rubber, not seeming to have fully settled in. The palate is restrained in style, pulling up on the finish. Perhaps some time will tie the pieces together.

Itä 2019 2 of 2 Les Collines Vineyard Sémillon Walla Walla Valley $25 91 points
Fermented and aged in neutral oak, the aromas are light initially, with notes of wet rock, fig and spice. The palate brings a sense of creamy texture yet remains sleek, with lemony acidity stitching it together. It’s as much about feel as flavor, with acid in the driver’s seat. Editor’s Choice

Itä 2019 1 of 2 Les Collines Vineyard Sémillon Walla Walla Valley $25 91 points
Fermented and aged in stainless steel, aromas of fig, talc and lemon are followed by focused, sleek flavors and tart, lemony acidity. It’s a wonderfully acid driven offering of this variety. Editor’s Choice

Itä 2019 Les Collines Vineyard Rosé of Primitivo Walla Walla Valley $25 88 points
A pretty pale salmon color, the aromas offer notes of lees and baked bread, reminiscent of the autolytic notes of a Champagne. There’s a lot of texture to the fruit and lees flavors. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery, with the aromas holding it back a bit.

J. Bookwalter 2018 Readers Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $28 91 points
The fruit for this wine comes from older blocks at top-notch vineyards. Appealing aromas of black cherry, craisin, dried herb, barrel notes and spice lead to big black-fruit flavors. It’s a flat out delicious, hedonistic wine. Editor’s Choice

J. Bookwalter 2018 Suspense Conner-Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley $60 91 points
Cabernet Franc makes up 83% of this wine, with the rest Merlot. Char, whole green pepper, green herb and black cherry aromas lead to full bodied, palate coating, rich fruit flavors. Polished tannins back it up. It shows the variety’s more savory side while still bringing heft. Best after 2025.

J. Bookwalter NV Notebook 14NV Red Blend Columbia Valley $10 90 points
There’s a lovely sense of purity to the blue fruit aromas of this wine, which are accented by notes of herb, whole green pepper, coffee and cherry. The palate delivering more of the same, with a coffee note linger on the finish. There’s a whole lot of quality and value to be had. Best Buy

J. Bookwalter 2018 Readers Merlot Columbia Valley $28 89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from older blocks at Conner Lee and Dionysus vineyards. Aromas of wild raspberry and plum are followed by ripe, sweet, fresh fruit flavors that show a pleasing sense of purity.

Januik 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $40 92 points
The aromas are pleasing, with notes of bittersweet chocolate, spice, dried herb and cherry. It brings a mouthful of chocolate and cherry flavors, supported by the brawny tannins that this appellation is known for. The pillowy mouthfeel ups the appeal. Give it some time in the cellar or decant. Editor’s Choice

Januik 2017 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $55 92 points
Aromas of cocoa, bittersweet chocolate and scorched earth are followed by soft, plush feeling cherry and chocolate flavors that are in vivid focus. It lingers on the finish. Editor’s Choice

Januik 2017 Reserve Columbia Valley $65 91 points
Dark berry, spice, slate, coffee and cherry aromas are followed by bountiful cherry and chocolate flavors. Juicy, with lovely acidity, it will only benefit from additional time in bottle and will have a long life ahead of it.

Januik 2017 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope $35 91 points
Raspberry, chocolate and herb aromas are out front. Plump, fleshy fruit and barrel flavors follow, accented by bright acidity. It’s hard to resist.

Januik 2017 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot Red Mountain $35 91 points
Aromas of dark chocolate, raspberry and dried herb lead to well-proportioned fruit and barrel flavors. The tannins this vineyard is known for give a firm grip. Editor’s Choice

Januik 2017 Merlot Columbia Valley $25 91 points
Vanilla, cocoa, barrel spice, cherry and licorice aromas are followed by smooth, velvety cherry and chocolate flavors. Dark chocolate notes linger on the finish. It’s a classically Januik style wine, full of flavor and polish. It will only get better with time in bottle. Editor’s Choice

Januik 2018 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $30 91 points
The aromas are bright in notes of pear, spice and apricot. Rounded flavors follow on the palate, showing precision and detail. A tart finish caps it off. Editor’s Choice

Januik 2019 Sagemoor Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $20 91 points
Ask Mike Januik what makes Washington Sauvignon Blanc so good and he gives a simple answer: the Sémillon. That’s the case here, with the variety making up 20% of the wine and showing itself. Aromas of fig and spice are followed by textured flavors and a lingering finish. Editor’s Choice

Januik 2017 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $40 91 points
Aromas of milk chocolate, dried herb, cherry and spice lead to plump cherry and chocolate flavors. It’s a one wine charm offensive.

Januik 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 91 points
The aromas bring immediate appeal, with notes of coffee, black cherry, cocoa, dried herb and mineral. There’s a pleasing sense of freshness and dexterity to the palate. It shows a lot of sophistication. Editor’s Choice

Januik 2017 Champoux Vineyard Merlot Horse Heaven Hills $40 90 points
Coming from a vineyard best known for its Cabernet, aromas of earth, graphite, chocolate and dark raspberry lead to dense fruit and barrel flavors. The acidity is heightened. As always with Champoux, the enjoyment is as much about feel and structure as flavor.

Januik 2018 Bacchus Vineyard Riesling Columbia Valley $20 90 points
The aromas offer notes of flower, pear and lime leaf, initially seeming subdued but opening over time. The palate drinks bone dry, with the strong sense of acidity.

Januik 2017 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $45 90 points
The aromas are bursting with notes of cherry and chocolate, with dried herb and scorched earth notes backing it up. The palate is light and lithe, bringing a sense of freshness along with plenty of tannic heft.

Januik 2017 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah Red Mountain $35 88 points
Vanilla, dark roasted coffee bean and medicine are followed by a palate backed by lightly grainy feeling tannins. The oak gets in the way.

Januik 2017 Champoux Vineyard Malbec Horse Heaven Hills $40 88 points
Bittersweet chocolate aromas are out front, followed by notes of cedar, dried herb and plentiful barrel spices. The palate doesn’t quite deliver on all of that promise, dipping in the middle before coming back together on the finish. There’s an impressive amount of tannic stuffing for the variety. Perhaps it will fill in over time.

Kontos 2016 Tate Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $63 91 points
The aromas are barrel forward, with notes of vanilla and sweet baking spices in front of dark fruit. Ripe, hedonistic cranberry, cherry and barrel spice flavors follow. It’s a high octane interpretation of this vineyard, with the oak center stage.

Kontos 2016 Dorsey Baker Walla Walla Valley $55 91 points
This is an interesting blend of 34% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec and 19% Petit Verdot. Aromas of vanilla, blackberry, sweet baking spices and anise show themselves, with the barrel influence primary. Ripe, opulent fruit and barrel flavors follow. It’s full throttle wine, made in a hedonistic style, with the acidity of the vintage keeping it in check.

Kontos 2017 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $47 91 points
The aromas are locked up out of the gate, with notes of sweet baking spices, vanilla and dark fruit. Fruit and barrel flavors intertwine on the palate. A pleasing sense of acidity keeps it all in focus. The emphasis on oak puts the vineyard in the background, but it’s a delightful, riper styled wine.

Kontos 2017 Baker Blend Summit View Vineyard Malbec Walla Walla Valley $55 90 points
The aromas offer notes of plum, blackberry, coffee, vanilla and sweet barrel spices. Ripe, rich flavors follow, interlaced with barrel spice and orange peel notes. The tannins give the firm handshake that this vineyard is known for. Some bottle time will serve it well. Best after 2024.

Kontos 2015 Caimbry Pepper Bridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $63 88 points
Anise, prune, vanilla, dried herb and cherry cordial aromas lead to ripe, full bodied dried fruit flavors, speckled with barrel spices. Vanilla notes linger on the finish, with the tannins giving a firm squeeze. There are good things happening, but the fruit seems quite evolved.

Kontos 2017 Malbec Walla Walla Valley $47 88 points
Plum, satsuma, baking spice and cherry aromas are followed by center focused flavors. The bright acidity of the vintage helps keep the interest. It doesn’t all meld right now, but perhaps some time will bring it together?

L'Ecole No. 41 2019 Luminesce Estate Seven Hills Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon Walla Walla Valley $22 92 points
This wine is equally split between the two varieties. Pleasing aromas of pear, citrus, fig, mineral and herb are followed by rounded, textured flavors that lead to a warm finish. The acidity is heightened compared to recent vintages, making the flavors snap. Give it a few years in the cellar to see it at its best. Editor’s Choice

L'Ecole No. 41 2019 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $20 90 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of toast, corn silk, spice and peach. Full feeling stone fruit flavors follow. A pleasing sense of acidity ties it all together.

L'Ecole No. 41 2018 Syrah Columbia Valley $25 90 points
Blended with 18% Grenache and 2% Mourvèdre, this red offers aromas of dark raspberry, huckleberry and dried herbs on the nose. There’s a savory sense to the pillowy, soft flavors on the palate. It’s high octane but keeps it all in check.

MTR Productions 2014 Memory Found Syrah Walla Walla Valley $95 91 points
Given extended elevage and bottle age, the aromas are arresting, with notes of black olive, tar, smoke, berry, wet stone and dried herb. The palate is more reserved in style than the aromas suggest, showing a sense of grace and polish, particularly considering the warmth of the vintage. Olive notes linger on the finish.

Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley $28 92 points
Raspberry aromas jump out of the glass, along with notes of plum, whole orange, cigar box and herb. The palate is plush with plump chocolate flavors. It’s a complete delight, with more structure than is often seen on this variety.

Novelty Hill 2018 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $23 92 points
Nuanced aromas of spice, poached pear and cardamom lead to well-balanced fruit flavors, accented by bright acidity. The finish carries. Editor’s Choice

Novelty Hill 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $26 91 points
Roasted coffee bean aromas are out front, followed by notes of toast, coffee and barrel spices. Fruit and barrel flavors intertwine on the palate. There’s a lot to like.

Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley $28 91 points
Appealing aromas of dark roasted coffee, black pepper, spice, raspberry and pot roast are followed by tart, energetic flavors brightened by lively acidity. The vintage truly shines through, with the wine a distinctly different style from recent offerings.

Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Grenache Columbia Valley $28 91 points
The aromas are fruit filled, with notes of whole raspberry, moss and grape stem. There’s a compelling sense of freshness and intensity to the palate. Peppery notes up the interest.

Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 90 points
The aromas aren’t yet ready to reveal their charms, with reserved notes of spice, herb, cherry and bittersweet chocolate. Soft fruit and barrel flavors follow. It takes time to get going, but it delivers.

Novelty Hill 2017 Merlot Columbia Valley $23 90 points
The coffee, dark chocolate, cherry and herb aromas bring appeal. Plump, rounded fruit and barrel flavors follow. Lightly grainy tannins provide support. Best after 2023.

Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley $28 90 points
Aromas of cocoa, barrel spice and dark raspberry are followed by smooth, sultry chocolate and red fruit flavors. It’s a charmer that shows the acidity of the vintage.

Novelty Hill 2017 Cascadia Columbia Valley $55 90 points
The aromas offer notes of milk chocolate, barrel spice, dried herb and cherry. Plentiful dark chocolate flavors follow. There’s a sense of vibrancy to the acids that contribute to its charm.

Novelty Hill 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Roussanne Columbia Valley $23 90 points
Lemon balm, spice, herb and nori aromas lead to a palate that brings a pleasing amount of acidity. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery. Best after 2021.

Novelty Hill 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Viognier Columbia Valley $23 90 points
The aromas are bright, with notes of flower, pear, peach and honeysuckle. Ripe stone fruit flavors follow, with the acidity of the vintage keeping it all in check.

Novelty Hill 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $20 90 points
Reticent aromas of apple, herb, and spice are followed by lightly creamy flavors backed with edgy acidity. It still seems in its shell but has good stuffing.

Novelty Hill 2018 Syrah Columbia Valley $23 89 points
Aromas of blueberry pie, tangerine peel and sweet barrel spices are followed by a palate that mixes equal parts fruit and barrel, with plentiful nougat notes on the finish. The oak plays a leading role in the show.

Novelty Hill 2017 Oxbow Columbia Valley $50 89 points
45% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre, café au lait aromas are out front, followed by notes of spice, blueberry and fresh herb. The palate is light and creamy in feel, showing an interplay of fruit and barrel. It’s a bit bunched up at present.

Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sangiovese Columbia Valley $28 88 points
The aromas offer notes of medicine cabinet, cherry and dark raspberry, not seeming entirely integrated. The tannins are bunched up at present. It’s hard to tell where it’s going.

Pacific Rim 2019 Sweet Riesling Columbia Valley $11 89 points
Bright aromas of tangerine peel, flower, dried rose petal and citrus are followed by sweet, full feeling citrus flavors and plenty of acidity. There’s a lovely sense of balance to it all. Dried rose petal notes linger on the finish. Best Buy

Pacific Rim 2019 J Riesling Columbia Valley $11 89 points
Exuberant aromas of orange rind, ginger and freshly peeled satsuma are followed by medium-sweet flavors and vibrant acidity. Rose petal notes linger on the finish. Best Buy

Pacific Rim 2019 Dry Riesling Columbia Valley $11 88 points
Generous aromas of honeysuckle, pear, dried rose petal and orange are followed by mandarin orange flavors and a floral finish. A dried rose note is a bit of distracting on the finish. Best Buy

Passing Time 2018 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $50 91 points
A new effort from this winery that has previously been Cabernet focused, the fruit for this wine comes from Conner Lee, Boushey and Kenny Hill Vineyards. The aromas command attention, with notes of corn silk, pumpkin spice, toast, candy corn and ripe peach. The palate is full bodied and rounded, redolent with stone and tropical fruit flavors. It’s a ripe offering of this variety. Editor’s Choice

Prospice 2017 Reserve Quintessence Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $80 92 points
Coming from an up-and-coming vineyard site, the aromas pop like a firecracker, with the notes of dried herb, black raspberry, earth and cedar commanding attention. The palate is lithe and fruitful, constructed around a frame of bright acids and firm tannins, with the fruit and herb flavors filling in over time. It’s a beauty with a very long life in front of it. Editor’s Choice

Prospice 2018 Resurgent Vineyard Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $50 91 points
The aromas bring notes of flower, dried herb and cherry. The palate is all about tannin and acid structure at first, with the fruit filling in over time.

Prospice 2018 Alder Ridge Vineyard Mourvèdre Horse Heaven Hills $45 90 points
The aromas are unique for this variety, with notes of black raspberry, cranberry and maraschino cherry, also showing a bit of reduction. There’s a sensuous feel to the palate that dances lightly. It sticks around on the finish. A pleasing sense of acidity ups the interest. It should only get better with some additional time in bottle.

Rôtie Cellars 2019 Southern Walla Walla Valley $32 92 points
Viognier (65%) is on the lead on this wine, followed by Roussanne (20%) and Marsanne. The aromas pull you into the glass, with notes of lemon balm, wet rock and white flower. The flavors bring plenty of intensity and texture, backed by live wire acidity. In keeping with the vintage and producer, it’s an impressively restrained offering of these varieties. Editor’s Choice

Rôtie Cellars 2018 Southern Blend Washington $48 92 points
Grenache makes up 70% of this wine, with the rest Syrah (20%) and Mourvèdre. The aromas pop, with notes of cracked pepper, mountain strawberry, fresh satsuma peel, flower, blueberry and stem. The palate brings a supreme amount of delicacy but also a sneaky richness. It sails on the satsuma filled finish. The purity is mesmerizing. Editor’s Choice

Rôtie Cellars 2019 Northern Walla Walla Valley $32 92 points
This wine is about two-thirds Marsanne and one third Roussanne. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of pear, nectarine, sea shell, fig and flower. The palate is sleek, tart and focused, with racy, mouthwatering acidity and a pleasing depth of flavor. Editor’s Choice

Rôtie Cellars 2019 Grenache Blanc Washington $32 92 points
This wine hasn’t fully settled in on first pour, but once it does it shows?aromas of wet stone, talc and lemon are followed by a sleek, puckering palate with lemony acidity. The acid is outrageous. Editor’s Choice

Rôtie Cellars 2019 85% Mourvèdre 15% Grenache Rosé Washington $22 90 points
Strawberry aromas out front on this pretty pale peach colored wine, followed by notes of wet stone. The palate brings a lot of weight and flavor intensity but with more than enough acidity to pull it off.

Savage Grace 2018 Dineen Vineyard Côt Rattlesnake Hills $30 93 points
The achingly pure aromas of wild strawberry, ground rock, earth, spice and herb are arresting. The palate brings all that and more, with notes of herb, and spice that show delicacy, purity and restraint along with a whole lot of acidity. This is as far from a cocktail wine as it gets and needs food alongside it to be fully appreciated. Paired it with grilled lamb chops. Editor’s Choice

Savage Grace 2018 Copeland Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rattlesnake Hills $30 92 points
The aromas are arresting, with notes of fresh raspberry, strawberry, cranberry, whiffs of manure and dried herb that show vitality. The palate starts out light and delicate, drinking like an elegant Pinot Noir, with vivid, pure flavors, filling out over time. It’s a very pretty expression of the variety, with a strong emphasis on purity. Best after 2023. Editor’s Choice

Savage Grace 2019 Blanc Franc Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $24 91 points
A one-of-a-kind wine in the state, aromas of whole green pepper, herb and citrus are followed by tart, acid driven green pepper and herb flavors. It’s downright lipsmacking. Editor’s Choice

Savage Grace 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $42 91 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of scorched earth, moss, ember, tobacco, herb and raspberry. The palate brings restrained raspberry flavors with intensity and freshness. It’s a unique, compelling offering of the variety. Editor’s Choice

Savage Grace 2019 Red Willow Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley $24 90 points
The aromas fascinate, with notes of sweet herb, wet slate and kelp. The palate is sleek but flavorful, with a strong sense of acidity. Pair it with briny oysters for a transcendent experience.

Sleight of Hand 2019 The Magician Evergreen Vineyard Riesling Ancient Lakes $18 89 points
Aromas of mineral, dried rose petal, citrus and dried herb lead to just off dry Nestea flavors. There are lots of good things happening but the components aren’t all entirely in harmony.

Sleight of Hand 2019 The Magician’s Assistant Blackrock Vineyard Rosé Yakima Valley $18 87 points
Darker in color than recent vintages, this is a weighty interpretation of rosé, where the palate gets quite bogged down with heavy fruit flavors. The aromas offer interest but can’t make up the difference.

Syncline 2018 McKinley Springs Vineyard Cinsault Horse Heaven Hills $40 93 points
Initially locked up, the aromas open to reveal notes of wild strawberry and other red berries followed by achingly pure soft, layered red fruit flavors. It’s a knee buckler with an exquisitely long finish, drinking like a bowl of fresh fruit. Editor’s Choice

Syncline 2018 Estate Grown Steep Creek Ranch Red Blend Columbia Gorge $60 93 points
This wine is a blend of 48% Mondeuse, 28% Syrah, 14% Grenache and 10% Gamay Noir. The aromas aren’t ready to reveal their charms at first, with light notes of dried herb, raspberry, crushed flower, mineral and cranberry that open over time. The flavors are medium bodied, tart, puckering and focused. Firm but polished tannins back it up. It brings a vibrant sense of acidity seldom seen in the state on red wines, along with a pleasing rusticity and plenty of crunchy red fruit. It’s a statement wine for this appellation. Editor’s Choice

Syncline 2019 Bloxom Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Columbia Valley $25 92 points
Intriguing aromas of herb, slate, pear and lentil are followed by broad, textured feeling flavors that linger on the finish. It shows pleasing complexities along with the vibrant acidity of the vintage. Editor’s Choice

Syncline 2019 Boushey Vineyard Picpoul Yakima Valley $25 92 points
The aromas offer alluring notes of lemon zest, white flower and crushed rock. The medium bodied palate brings a zing of tart, puckering, lemony acidity that is the hallmark of this lip-stinging grape. It’s an acid lovers light. Pair it with shrimp ceviche with lime and jalapeño. Editor’s Choice

Syncline 2016 Scintillation Blanc de Blanc Chardonnay Columbia Gorge $50 91 points
Coming from Rainmaker, this is a vineyard change for this wine. The aromas bring notes of baked bread and citrus. The palate is light and crisp, with the acid driving it. It’s a very cleanly styled sparkler. Editor’s Choice

Syncline 2019 Rosé Horse Heaven Hills $25 90 points
Mourvèdre makes up 40% of this wine, with the rest Cinsault (33%) and Grenache. Pale peach in color, this wine brings aromas of strawberry, whole tangerine and watermelon range. The palate is somewhat weighty in feel but with enough acid to pull it off.

Syncline 2019 Boushey Vineyard Grenache Blanc Yakima Valley $30 90 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of orange twist, fig and citrus. The palate is broad down the middle, lighter along the edges, fleshing out over time. Lively acidity keeps it all in focus.

Tamarack 2017 Firehouse Red Blend Columbia Valley $20 90 points
Appealing aromas of plum, toast, smoke, spice and cherry carry the nose. The palate brings plump, ripe fruit and barrel flavors tied together by a zip of acidity. It’s a guaranteed crowd pleaser. Editor’s Choice

Tamarack 2018 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $20 90 points
Appealing aromas of pear, tangerine and papaya are followed by broad orchard-fruit flavors on the palate. A zing of acidity ups the interest. It’s a pleasing interpretation of the variety, with the oak dialed way back.

Tamarack 2016 Merlot Columbia Valley $28 87 points
Aromas of toast, coffee, tire rubber, medicinal cabinet and spice are followed by lighter styled coffee and black cherry flavors backed by lightly grainy tannins. It doesn’t all fit together.

Upchurch 2017 Counterpart Red Mountain $50 93 points
Merlot makes up 65% of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. Assorted dried herb aromas are out front initially, followed by notes of milk chocolate, coffee, graphite, raspberry and scorched earth that take time to get going. There’s a pleasing sense of freshness to the velvety red fruit flavors. Firm, tannins back it up. It shows a lot of sophistication for this oft brawny appellation but still has more than enough tannic heft to reward time in the cellar. Best from 2027 to 2033. Editor’s Choice

Upchurch 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $75 93 points
The aromas are locked up out of the gate, with notes of pink peppercorn, spice, fresh herb, raspberry and dark cherry. The flavors are dense and rich, with the tannins polished to a fine sheen and more than enough acidity to keep it all in focus. It’s a prototypic Red Mountain wine, full of class and tannic brawn, with the acidity of the vintage upping the interest. It will have an exceedingly long life in front of it. Best after 2029. Editor’s Choice

Upchurch 2018 Southwest Facing Dick Boushey Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley $36 92 points
Aged in concrete egg for 14 months, the aromas explode from the glass, with notes of gooseberry, mango, herb, citrus and papaya. The palate is a taste sensation of full bodied tropical fruit flavors with more than ample acidity to stitch it all together. A warm finish completes it. It’s a delicious, warm site offering of this variety. Editor’s Choice

Upchurch 2017 LTL Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $30 89 points
Aromas of struck match, cherry, plum and char are followed by plump plum and vanilla flavors. It brings the appellation’s hefty tannic structure. There are good things happening, but they aren’t all settled.

Waters 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $50 94 points
This 100% varietal wine offers aromas of chocolate, mushroom, cedar, dried herb, cherry, dried lavender and umami—a unique profile for a Washington Cabernet. The palate is action packed in a rich, textured cherry flavor that coats the palate from end to end, lingering on the coffee-filled finish. Best from 2027–2033. Editor’s Choice

Waters 2018 Waterstone Syrah Walla Walla Valley $60 93 points
All of this wine comes from fan trained, third leaf fruit, and it’s both promise and delivery. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of blueberry, whole orange, wet stone and smoked meat, very pretty and fruit forward. Full feeling, voluptuous smoked meat, berry and savory flavors follow. Many wines from the Rocks sub-appellation are all savory. This one brings plenty of that but also an abundance of fruit. Editor’s Choice

Waters 2017 Interlude Washington $22 92 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (79%) makes up the majority of this wine, with the rest Merlot. The aromas bring an assortment of charming fresh herb, raspberry, whole green pepper, flower, black currant and cherry notes, displaying a sense of freshness. There’s a dazzling purity to the rich but cranberry tart fruit flavors, with compelling acid and tannin structure. Pair it with roasted pork loin with a cranberry glaze. Editor’s Choice

Waters 2018 Waterstone Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $60 91 points
Fruit for this wine comes from third leaf, fan trained vines—a long held dream realized for the winery. The aromas are arresting, with notes of plum, ash, sliced green pepper and satsuma. It coats the palate with notes of ember, cherry and herb, with the velvety, high pH feel of the Rocks District sub-appellation of the valley. Smoke notes linger on the finish. It’s a unique offering of the variety for the state.

Waters 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $50 91 points
The aromas are exuberant, with notes of crushed black cherry, black licorice, cedar and dried herb. The palate is densely packed with fruit and firm tannins with a gauzy feel. It needs a bit of time to unwind.

Image by Richard Duval. 

Wine Enthusiast Reviews for December 1, 2020

Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for December 1, 2020. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read information on how I review wines here. Read about the Wine Enthusiast rating system here. Read about how to interpret my scores here. All of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide. See previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast's on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.



121 wines reviewed in the December 1, 2020 issue of Wine Enthusiast. 

The latest releases from Gramercy Cellars are, as always, top notch. But I want to specifically draw your attention to the Lower East wines. 

These are made from declassified barrels that didn’t necessarily fit the winery’s style but are still high quality. Typically most of these wines get snapped up by restaurants, but COVID-19 has given them wider consumer availability. They are very high quality wines for the price (Gramercy 2017 Lower East Mourvèdre Columbia Valley $27, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Gramercy 2017 Lower East Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $32, 92 points; Gramercy 2017 Lower East Syrah Columbia Valley $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice). 

Soos Creek Wine Cellars continually makes outrageously delicious wines at affordable prices. The latest releases meet that mark and then some (Soos Creek 2017 Artist Series No. 17 Columbia Valley $30, 93 points, Cellar Selection; Soos Creek 2017 Terrible Beauty Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30, 93 points, Editor’s Choice; Soos Creek 2017 Sundance Columbia Valley $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice). 

Sean Boyd has brought the same focused, flavorful style to Sightglass Cellars that he did to Woodinville Wine Cellars. All of Sightglass’s offerings are top notch, but I want to point out in particular the winery’s Red Blend. Boyd built WWC’s Little Bear Creek into a powerhouse brand. The Sightglass Red Blend brings that same level of quality and value (Sightglass 2018 Red Blend Columbia Valley $25, 92 points, Editor’s Choice). 

Sparkman Cellars has always excelled with its two staple Bordeaux-style blends, the Stella Mae and Ruby Leigh, named after Chris and Kelly Sparkman’s children. The winery’s 2016 offering of these wines are standouts from this vintage (Sparkman 2016 Ruby Leigh Columbia Valley $65, 93 points, Editor’s Choice; Sparkman 2016 Stella Mae Columbia Valley $65, 93 points, Editor’s Choice). 

However, make make sure to check out the full list of Sparkman wines reviewed below. It includes 90+ point rated Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Graciano, Grenache, Sangiovese, Malbec, and Merlot. Does any other Washington winery work with such a diverse group of varieties at so high a quality level? 

Finally, make sure to keep an eye on the projects from Aryn Morell (Alleromb, Morell-Peña, The Royal Bull). Morell focuses on fruit from the newly approved Royal Slope appellation. The proof of how special and distinctive this appellation is is in every bottle (Alleromb 2017 Corfu Crossing Vineyard Grenache Columbia Valley $62, 92 points; Alleromb 2018 La Gran Flor Blanc La Reyna Blanc Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $42, 91 points; Alleromb 2017 Cuvée B Columbia Valley $40, 91 points; Morell-Peña 2017 Gemma Camyrn Chardonnay Columbia Valley $60, 92 points, Editor’s Choice; Morell-Peña 2017 Blanc de Blancs Zero Dosage Méthode Champenoise Extended Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $75, 91 points). 

Without further ado. 

* * *

Alleromb 2017 Corfu Crossing Vineyard Grenache Columbia Valley $62 92 points 
Rhône varieties are distinguishing themselves on the Royal Slope. Gravel, raspberry and potpourri aromas lead to smoked meat and red fruit flavors that show balance, elegance and length. Herb notes linger on the finish. It’s a very pretty expression of the variety. 

Alleromb 2018 La Gran Flor Blanc La Reyna Blanc Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $42 91 points 
Winemaker Aryn Morell always gets the most out of this variety. Fruit for this wine comes from a higher elevation site on the Royal Slope, an up-and-coming region. Aromas of toast, herb and spice lead to creamy-feeling flavors. It shows a compelling sense of texture. 

Alleromb 2017 Cuvée B Columbia Valley $40 91 points 
This is a blend of Merlot (64%), Cabernet Sauvignon (26%) and Malbec. The aromas are reticent, with notes of sautéed fresh herbs, cherry, barrel spice and licorice. The palate is smooth in feel, with plentiful fruit and barrel flavors backed by tightly wound tannins. Vanilla notes linger on the finish. It will have a long life in front of it. 

Alleromb 2017 Scarline Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley $62 89 points 
Aromas of cough medicine, smoke, green herb, smoked meat and eucalyptus are followed by fruit flavors that seem surprisingly light, especially considering the labeled alcohol. It’s hard to tell where it’s all is going. 

Battle Creek 2018 Battle Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir Willamette Valley $62 90 points 
The aromas offer notes of strawberry, cranberry, cinnamon stick, whole orange and plum. Plump, juicy cranberry flavors follow, with orange rind notes on the finish. It brings a pleasing sense of freshness. Give it a few years in bottle to settle in. 

Battle Creek 2017 Roe Vineyard Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge $64 90 points 
Light aromas of herb, spice, Satsuma orange, sarsaparilla and cherry are followed by bright, full-bodied fruit flavors. There’s more than enough tannic structure to pull it off. Best after 2024. 

Battle Creek 2018 Unconditional Pinot Noir Oregon $18 89 points 
Sarsaparilla, peppermint and cinnamon stick aromas are in the lead. There’s a lovely sense of elegance to the fruit flavors. Lightly grainy tannins and mouthwatering acidity back it up. Tangerine notes linger on the finish. Give it some additional time in the bottle or decant to see it at its best. 

Battle Creek 2017 Battle Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir Willamette Valley $62 89 points 
Aromas of raspberry, root beer, red plum and cranberry are followed by tart, palate-coating red fruit flavors. The acidity ups the interest. It doesn’t all come together yet but shows promise. 

Borne of Fire 2018 The Burn Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25 88 points 
Aromas of plum, struck match and spice lead to plump, lightly sweet plum flavors. The oak is pleasantly dialed back. 

Brian Carter 2016 Trentenaire Bordeaux Style Columbia Valley $50 92 points 
Petit Verdot (56%) takes the lead on this wine, with the balance Merlot (18%), Cabernet Sauvignon (12%), Cabernet Franc (8%) and Malbec. Aromas of garden herb, dark chocolate, cedar and flowers are followed by fresh, lively flavors with a strong sense of acidity. Pair it with roasted lamb with a cherry glaze. Editor’s Choice 

Brian Carter 2016 Solesce Columbia Valley $50 91 points 
This wine is 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest Merlot (19%), Petit Verdot (10%), Cabernet Franc (10%) and Malbec. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of flowers, bright herbs, blue fruit and cocoa. The palate brings plentiful cherry flavors. Tightly wound tannins provide support. 

Brian Carter 2017 Corrida Spanish-style Red Blend Columbia Valley $34 90 points 
Tempranillo makes up two-thirds of this wine, with the rest Graciano (21%), Garnacha (7%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas bring notes of cedar, mushroom, coffee and herb. The flavors have a sense of elegance and restraint. Some additional time in the bottle will serve it well. 

Brian Carter 2015 Le Coursier Bordeaux Style Columbia Valley $40 89 points 
Merlot makes up just over half of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Cocoa, earth, baking spice and vanilla aromas lead to lighter-styled flavors. The concentration doesn’t seem all there at times. 

Brian Carter 2019 Oriana White Blend Yakima Valley $25 89 points 
This unique blend is 49% Viognier, 41% Roussanne and 10% Riesling. Ripe peach and honeysuckle aromas are out front. Lightly sweet-seeming stone fruit and pear flavors follow, with enough acidity to tie it all together. 

Brian Carter 2015 Byzance Columbia Valley $38 88 points 
This is 53% Grenache, 24% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, 7% Counoise and 4% Cinsault. Aromas of tire rubber, coffee, brown spice, cherry and wood spice are followed by lighter-styled flavors. There are good things happening, but they don’t all come together. 

Brian Carter 2017 Big Daddy Red Blend Yakima Valley $40 88 points 
Touriga Nacional makes up 56% of this wine, with the rest Souzão (20%), Tinto Cão (16%) and Tinta Roriz. Aromas of coffee, flowers, orange rind and fresh tobacco lead to lighter-styled cranberry flavors. The fruit doesn’t quite seem to have fully ripened, but there’s still enjoyment to be had. 

Brian Carter 2016 Tuttoroso Super Tuscan Style Red Blend Yakima Valley $34 87 points 
Sangiovese makes up 68% of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (17%) and Syrah. The aromas are unusual, with notes of shoe leather, cherry cordial and barnyard. Plum and cherry flavors follow. It finishes short. 

Brian Carter 2015 1 Boushey Vineyard Sangiovese Yakima Valley $65 87 points 
The aromas are unsettled out of the gate, with notes of char and tire rubber. Plump char and cherry flavors follow. The oak plays prominently, even once it opens up. 

Carden 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $48 91 points 
Vanilla, graphite, baking spice, black currant, cherry and tar aromas lead to a palate full of chewy tannins. Best after 2024. 

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2016 Ethos Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $48 90 points 
Scorched earth, cherry, dried herb, vanilla and tar aromas are followed by a palate that brings some elegance. Like many wines from this vintage, it doesn’t have the midpalate density often associated with Washington, but there are still plenty of good things happening. 

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2016 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 88 points 
The aromas offer notes of vanilla, cocoa, asphalt, smoke and coffee. The flavors paint around the edges. The oak influence is primary. 

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2019 Rosé Columbia Valley $11 88 points 
The aromas are bright, with notes of watermelon, strawberry candy and whiffs of kiwi. Full, almost thick-feeling tropical fruit flavors follow. It will have plenty of admirers. Cellar Selection 

Colter's Creek 2019 Negroamaro Rosé Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $23 90 points 
With a very appealing pale copper color, this wine boasts reserved aromas of strawberry and citrus followed by fuller feeling flavors but with more than ample acidity to keep the interest high. Editor’s Choice 

Colter's Creek 2017 Arrow Rim G-S-M Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $25 88 points 
Grenache makes up half of this wine, followed by Mourvèdre (33%), with Syrah finishing it off. Aromas of tire rubber, white pepper, nori, smoke, black raspberry and herb lead to light, elegant red fruit and savory flavors that dip in the middle with a smoky finish. There will be interesting things happening if the reduction blows off. 

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Brut Méthode Champenoise Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $13 89 points 
Apple, pear and apple skin aromas are followed by bright, crisp flavors. It delivers a lot of quality and value. Best Buy 

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Brut Rosé Méthode Champenoise Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $13 89 points 
Very appealing aromas of baked bread, poached pear and citrus are followed by crisp apple flavors. It’s thoroughly enchanting and a bargain to boot. Best Buy 

Domaine Ste. Michelle 2015 Luxe Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $25 88 points 
The aromas bring notes of pear and baked bread. Leesy flavors follow with a zip of acidity on the apple-filled finish. The lees influence gets a bit out in front. 

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Extra Dry Méthode Champenoise Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $13 88 points 
Pear aromas are out front, followed by notes of spice and citrus. Plentiful, lightly sweet strawberry flavors follow. It’s an enjoyable, well-priced, sweeter-style sparkler. Best Buy 

Foundry 2019 White on White Columbia Valley $24 87 points 
Marsanne makes up 45% of this wine, with the rest near equal parts Roussanne, Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Slightly cloudy in appearance, the aromas offer notes of crayon, peach and lees. Lightly spritzy, tingly peach flavors follow. It doesn’t seem to have fully settled in. 

Gordon Estate 2016 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $24 87 points 
Green pepper, fresh herb and black currant aromas are followed by plump black currant flavors. It’s an appealing quaffer. 

Gordon Estate 2016 Estate Grown Syrah Columbia Valley $24 86 points 
The aromas offer notes of funk, ash, herb and barrel spice. The flavors are lighter in style, with the concentration seeming a bit dilute. Barrel flavors play a significant role. 

Gordon Estate 2019 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $14 86 points 
The aromas suggest notes of toast, caraway seed and spice. Roasted pumpkin and stone fruit flavors follow, with light ale notes on the finish. 

Gordon Estate 2016 Estate Grown Merlot Columbia Valley $24 84 points 
Aromas of jalapeño, green herb, barrel spice and plum lead to lighter styled currant and green pepper flavors. It would be quite green for Cabernet but is unrecognizable as Merlot. 

Gramercy 2017 L’Idiot du Village Mourvèdre Columbia Valley $42 93 points 
The aromas offer notes of black pepper, sauvage, freshly chopped herb and raspberry. The favors are restrained and lighter styled initially, broadening with time. The balance is exquisite. Acidity is the driver. It only ramps up with time open. Editor’s Choice 

Gramercy 2017 Lower East Mourvèdre Columbia Valley $27 92 points 
The aromas are arresting, with notes of smoked meat, white pepper, raspberry, moist earth and dried herb. The palate is elegant yet flavorful, with a nice yum factor. Peppery notes linger on the finish. Pair it with grilled lamb. Editor’s Choice 

Gramercy 2017 Lower East Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $32 92 points 
Bright, fresh savory herb, graphite and flower aromas capture the attention. The plum and cherry flavors show impeccable balance, elegance and length. It has a compelling sense of freshness. Put it on the dinner table with grilled steak with chimichurri to get the most out of it. 

Gramercy 2017 Lagniappe Red Willow Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley $65 92 points 
Coming from this esteemed site in Yakima Valley, aromas of stem, moist earth, smoked meat and black pepper are followed by tart, lip-smacking flavors that ramp up in intensity with time open. Grainy tannins back it up. It needs time to show its best. Drink after 2025. Pair it with grilled meat. Cellar Selection 

Gramercy 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $50 92 points 
Fresh herb and flower aromas are out front, followed by notes of spice and plum. The palate is layered and restrained, with plenty of acidity and tannic structure supporting it all. It’s far from a big bruiser, but this is serious Cabernet, with impeccable balance. Editor’s Choice 

Gramercy 2017 Lower East Syrah Columbia Valley $25 91 points 
There’s plenty of aromas of smoked meat, fresh herb, white pepper, violet and raspberry. The flavors are light but layered. It’s mouthwatering and juicy, a terrific value that will shine at the dinner table. Editor’s Choice 

Jaine 2019 Sustainable Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $24 92 points 
This is a new, white wine dedicated winery and a sensational debut. The aromas are compelling, with notes of lemon pith, herb and the underside of a pineapple, unmistakably Sauvignon Blanc. The flavors are generous, intense, with a lot of texture. Mouthwatering acidity finishes it off. It’s a big-time winner—everything you could want from this variety. Bravo! Editor’s Choice 

Jaine 2019 Sustainable Vineyards Rosé Columbia Valley $24 90 points 
This is all Grenache. The aromas are bright and appealing, with notes of watermelon and strawberry. A juicy, richly flavorful, medium-bodied palate follows. It’s a bit weighty at times but still has the acidity to pull it off. 

Jaine 2019 Sustainable Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley $24 90 points 
This is stainless steel fermented and aged. The aromas are bright, with notes of cantaloupe, pear and banana. Fresh fruit flavors follow, with an appealing sense of texture and the acidity that this vintage brings. 

Kind Stranger 2019 Rosé Columbia Valley $17 88 points 
A very pretty pale salmon color, this wine offers aromas of watermelon, herbs, crushed dried rose petal and yellow strawberry. A strong sense of acidity enlivens the palate. The dried rose aromas get in the way at times. 

Latta 2017 Weinbau Vineyard Malbec Wahluke Slope $45 93 points 
The aromas jump out of the glass, with notes of Damson plum, tar and spice. The palate is intensely flavorful but still brings a sense of tartness and freshness. It’s a standout, textbook offering of this variety. Editor’s Choice 

Latta 2017 Latta Latta G-S-M Columbia Valley $35 93 points 
This is a blend of principally Grenache (45%) and Mourvèdre (36%), with the rest Syrah. The aromas intoxicate, with notes of fresh herb, raspberry, plum and dried orange rind. The palate brings piercingly pure, layered raspberry flavors that sail on the hyperextended finish. It’s an absurd value and a guaranteed crowd-pleaser. Editor’s Choice 

Latta 2017 Lawrence Vineyards Syrah Columbia Valley $45 93 points 
This is a new addition to the lineup, from an area—the Royal Slope—that is coming to be known for its Syrah. The aromas are bright, with notes of tangerine zest, flower, cigar leaf, medicine and red and blue plum. It’s loaded with blue fruit flavors. A light eucalyptus note lingers on the long finish. It’s fascinating and impressive stuff. 

Latta 2017 Upland Vineyard Grenache Snipes Mountain $45 92 points 
The aromas are generous, with notes of ripe raspberry, cherry, white pepper and herb. Soft, sultry flavors follow. There’s a wonderful textural feel that heightens the appeal, with the candied raspberry flavors all about purity. 

Latta 2017 Lawrence Vineyard Roussanne Columbia Valley $30 92 points 
Aromas of whole apricot, beeswax and almond lead to full-feeling, palate-coating flavors, not as richly textural as recent offerings but more than delivering. In keeping with the year, there is more acidity here than in previous vintages, keeping the flavors in vivid focus. 

Latta 2017 Dana Dibble Freewater Rocks Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 92 points 
The aromas are subdued for the Rocks District but still draw you into the glass, with notes of olive, freshly mortared herb, plum, orange twist, firepit and moist earth. The flavors are layered, showing depth and intensity. 

Latta 2017 Gants de Suede Lawrence Vineyard Columbia Valley $45 91 points 
A new offering from the winery, this is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Malbec. Aromas of black currant, licorice, black pepper and Damson plum are followed by soft, plush-feeling orange peel and cherry flavors. It’s a subtle blend of these two varieties, with the Malbec displaying prominently. 

Latta 2017 Upland Mourvèdre Snipes Mountain $45 89 points 
The aromas are brooding, with notes of cherry, raspberry, tangerine peel and sauvage. The palate is lighter in style. There’s an intriguing sense of acidic brightness. It doesn’t stand on its own but will do well at the dinner table. Pair it with grilled lamb with mint sauce. 

Latta 2018 C.B. Lawrence Vineyards Roussanne Columbia Valley $25 89 points 
The aromas are quiet, with notes of seashell, almond, wheat and stone fruit. The palate is sleek in feel with plenty of acidity. It’s interesting but doesn’t entirely come off. 

Massalto 2019 Extravaganza Cinsault Columbia Valley $40 91 points 
This is a unicorn wine—100% Cinsault from Thunderstone Vineyard on the Royal Slope, barrel fermented with carbonic maceration. The aromas pop, with notes of plum, pomegranate, raspberry and lilac with a whiff of chocolate. It’s light on its feet with a very slight spritz, dancing with juicy fruit flavors. It’s an end-to-end, full-on charmer. Editor’s Choice 

Massalto 2019 Sauvalanche White Blend Columbia Valley $35 90 points 
This is 58% Chenin Blanc and 42% Sauvignon Blanc, cofermented and with extended maceration. With fruit coming from La Reyna Blanca Vineyard on the Royal Slope, the aromas are bright, with notes of cantaloupe, melon, kiwi skin, banana and apple. Rounded, fresh flavors follow, bringing some weight but with enough acidity to pull it off. It needs time to fully settle in, but there are lots of interesting things happening. 

Morell-Peña 2017 Gemma Camyrn Chardonnay Columbia Valley $60 92 points 
All Clone 76, aromas of cream, toast, corn silk and peach lead to expansive but still restrained mineral, white peach and spice flavors. Toasty notes linger on the finish. It brings a sense of vibrancy that ups the appeal. Beautiful stuff. Editor’s Choice 

Morell-Peña 2017 Camylla Loren Chardonnay Columbia Valley $60 91 points 
The aromas offer notes of vanilla, cream, clarified butter, spice and wet stone. There’s a pleasing sense of subtlety on the palate, with its chamomile and anise notes. Toasty notes linger on the finish. It displays the vintage’s sense of vibrancy. 

Morell-Peña 2017 Blanc de Blancs Zero Dosage Méthode Champenoise Extended Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $75 91 points 
The aromas are enchanting, with notes of pear, toasted hazelnuts and Jolly Rancher. The fruit flavors are fresh and lively. There’s a creaminess that ups the interest. It brings a sense of seriousness, with vibrant acidity. 

Morell-Peña 2017 Ysabella Bjork Chardonnay Columbia Valley $60 91 points 
This is all clone 96 Chardonnay. Clarified butter, cream, lemon balm and crayon aromas are followed by creamy candlewax flavors that sail. Toasty notes linger on the finish. Variety and winemaker influence walk hand in hand. 

Morell-Peña 2017 Blanc de Noirs Extended Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $75 90 points 
This wine spent three months in concrete egg prior to secondary fermentation. With all of the fruit from Solaksen Vineyard, pleasing aromas of baked bread and strawberry are followed by creamy-feeling flavors. It’s a modern-style sparkler that brings a sense of seriousness. 

Morell-Peña 2018 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $35 90 points 
Toast aromas are in the lead. There’s a lovely, lemony vibrancy to the palate, with the vintage carrying it. The oak dominates the aromas right now. Give it time to integrate. 

Mullan Road 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $45 91 points 
Roasted coffee bean, tar, melted butter and dark chocolate aromas are up front. An assortment of fruit and barrel flavors follow. Lightly chewy tannins back it up. The freshness is compelling. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection 

Pét Project 2019 Field Blend Organic Pétillant Naturel Acadia Vineyard Sparkling Blend Columbia Gorge $32 90 points 
This is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Pear and strawberry aromas lead to a palate full of apple flavors and crisp acidity that ups the interest. 

Pét Project 2019 Organic Pétillant Naturel Sparkling Wine Acadia Vineyard Pinot Gris Columbia Gorge $29 88 points 
The aromas bring notes of grape skin, citrus, ale and flower. Light, bright pear and kiwi flavors follow, with plentiful acidity backing it up. The mousse seems a bit light on an otherwise enjoyable wine. 

Pét Project 2019 Pétillant Naturel Sparkling Wine Soluna Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Columbia Gorge $26 86 points 
Aromas of ale, herbs, lentil and musk lead to herby tasting flavors. It’s more intellectually interesting than hedonistically pleasing, seeming green. 

Rôtie Cellars 2018 Northern Blend Rocks Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley (OR) $48 92 points 
Boom! The aromas explode from the glass, with notes of fresh flowers, whole and squeezed Satsuma orange, blueberry pie, black pepper, plum, smoked meat and earth, showing a captivating sense of purity and clarity. It’s pillowy soft, full of fruit, olive and smoked meat flavors that undulate across the palate. The smoked meat and orange twist finish is a full 30-plus seconds. Dee-licious. Editor’s Choice 

Sightglass 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $45 93 points 
Malbec makes up 25% of this wine, with the fruit coming from Stillwater Creek Vineyard. The aromas are immediately appealing, with plentiful notes of roasted coffee, savory herb, chocolate, licorice, plum and cherry cordial. The palate is flavorful, layered and rich but also has a sense of liveliness, with the Malbec giving it a lift. The finish carries. It’s pure, unadulterated hedonism, a stellar example of the variety. Editor’s Choice 

Sightglass 2018 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $40 92 points 
This is all Cabernet Franc from Stillwater Creek. The aromas are generous, with notes of roasted coffee bean, cherry, plum, flowers and fresh herbs. The flavors pop, with density and a sense of structural tension. Fruit and barrel play equal parts. Editor’s Choice 

Sightglass 2018 Red Blend Columbia Valley $25 92 points 
Winemaker Sean Boyd made his name at Woodinville Wine Cellars in part by his Little Bear Creek wine that was one of the best values in the state. This is his new winery’s iteration. Made of 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 20% Malbec and 5% Syrah, the wine has plentiful aromas of coffee grounds, dried herb, dark chocolate and cherry, which are followed by well-balanced flavors that show density, length and plenty of structure that’s pleasingly chewy. It’s thoroughly enchanting. Editor’s Choice 

Silver Totem 2018 Wallula Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $17 88 points 
The aromas are light, with notes of asphalt, herb and whole orange. Whole orange flavors follow. The fruit doesn’t seem to have fully ripened. 

Six Atmospheres 2016 Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Blend Washington $32 89 points 
This is a side project from winemaker Linn Scott (Sparkman Cellars). With two years en tirage, the aromas are compelling, with notes of baked bread, pear and apple. Vanilla and lemony flavors follow. Some oak seems to step in the way of an otherwise lovely wine. 

Soos Creek 2017 Artist Series No. 17 Columbia Valley $30 93 points 
Cabernet Franc makes up 65% of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. With fruit coming from Ciel du Cheval, Dineen, Klipsun, Slide Mountain and Weinbau vineyards, garden herb, plum, fresh black cherry dark chocolate and light barrel notes are followed by focused fruit and barrel flavors. A tight coil of chewy tannins ties it all together. One for the cellar. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection 

Soos Creek 2017 Terrible Beauty Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 93 points 
Fruit for this 100% Cabernet comes from Elephant Mountain, Klipsun and Weinbau vineyards. The aromas show purity, with notes of violet, dried and fresh herbs, cherry and scorched earth. The plum and cherry flavors are lip-smacking, bringing a lot of acidity and tannin structure. It’s beautiful, with a long life ahead of it. Editor’s Choice 

Soos Creek 2017 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $40 91 points 
With grapes coming from one of the state’s most esteemed vineyards, the aromas bring notes of vanilla, cocoa powder, herb and cherry, with the oak in the lead at present. Fruit and barrel flavors intertwine on the palate. Beautiful stuff with a long life in front of it. Editor’s Choice 

Soos Creek 2017 Sundance Columbia Valley $25 91 points 
Merlot (46%) and Cabernet Franc (43%) take the lead on this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s aromatically locked up out of the gate, eventually opening to reveal notes of cocoa, flower and raspberry. The palate brings plentiful red fruit flavors, a whole lot of acidity and chewy tannic structure. Best after 2024. Editor’s Choice 

Sparkman 2016 Ruby Leigh Columbia Valley $65 93 points 
Merlot (56%), Cabernet Franc (22%), Malbec (11%) and Cabernet Sauvignon comprise this wine, with two-thirds of the fruit coming from Olsen Vineyard. Café au lait, raspberry compote, cherry, herb and chocolate aromas are followed by plush, dense, layered fruit flavors. It brings a sense of intensity, seriousness and balance. Editor’s Choice 

Sparkman 2016 Stella Mae Columbia Valley $65 93 points 
This wine is two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest equal parts Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, the fruit a mix of Dionysus, Klipsun, Olsen and Weinbau vineyards. The aromas bring notes of violets, dried and fresh herbs, licorice and moist earth. The palate is soft and sultry, with a compelling sense of texture. Lightly grainy tannins back it up. It’s a beauty. Editor’s Choice 

Sparkman 2017 Rainmaker Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $65 92 points 
Almost all the fruit for this wine comes from Olsen Vineyard. Aromas of green herb are out front, followed by notes of violet, plum, dark chocolate, coffee and black currant. Chocolate, cherry and herb flavors follow. A snap of acidity, the hallmark of this vintage, ups the interest. Best after 2024. Editor’s Choice 

Sparkman 2017 Yonder Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $42 92 points 
The Cabernet Franc for this wine comes from Kiona and Olsen vineyard, along with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon from Dionysus. Aromas of roasted coffee bean, cherry, herb and barrel spice lead to dense, rich coffee and cherry flavors. It shows a lot of hang time on the finish. It’s a hedonistic offering of this variety, with the oak (55% new French) playing a prominent part in the show. 

Sparkman 2016 Evermore Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $100 92 points 
This is 100% varietal, with two-thirds of the fruit coming from Dionysus and the rest from Klipsun. Brooding aromas of soil, cherry, coffee, cinnamon and clove are followed by fruit flavors that show richness but also restraint. The bright acidity of the vintage ties it all together. It’s a classy offering of this variety that will only further express itself with time in the cellar. Best after 2026. Cellar Selection 

Sparkman 2019 As You Wish Old Vines Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $50 91 points 
This is 100% varietal, with all of the fruit coming from Block 23 at Gamache Vineyard in the White Bluffs. With the wine having been aged on lees in stainless steel, second fill and neutral oak, the aromas are quiet, with notes of almond, tropical fruit and lemon. Full-bodied, rich pineapple and kiwi flavors follow. It’s rich but manages to maintain its balance. A warm finish caps it off. 

Sparkman 2018 Lumière Chardonnay Columbia Valley $35 91 points 
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Stillwater Creek. The aromas bring notes of toast, corn silk, almond and spice, showing a sense of subtlety. It’s full-bodied and textured in feel, with the acidity brightening the flavors. Toasty notes linger on the finish. 

Sparkman 2017 Underworld Petit Verdot Yakima Valley $48 91 points 
Brooding aromas of dark roasted coffee, fresh herbs and flowers lead to rich, intense, center-focused fruit and barrel flavors and a warm finish. Despite the intensity, it still retains its sense of liveliness. Pair it with grilled lamb. 

Sparkman 2017 Darkness Syrah Yakima Valley $65 91 points 
Sixty-one percent of the fruit for this wine comes from Boushey Vineyard—and it shows—with the rest from Olsen. Aromas of funk, earth, iron, coffee and barrel spice are followed by dense, rich, hedonistic blue flavors. It brings a compelling savory element. 

Sparkman 2016 Kingpin Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $65 91 points 
All of the Cabernet for this wine comes from Klipsun Vineyard, with just a dash of Olsen Petit Verdot (7%) topping it off. Aromas of char, coffee, herb and cherry are followed by plentiful coffee and chocolate flavors. The finish lingers. It lives up to its name. 

Sparkman 2018 Holler Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $32 91 points 
This is a pan-Washington Cabernet, with fruit from White Bluffs, Horse Heaven, Red Mountain and Yakima Valley. The aromas offer notes of vanilla, sautéed dried herb, ground aniseed, coffee and cherry. Plump chocolate and cherry flavors follow, with a smooth feel upping the appeal. Editor’s Choice 

Sparkman 2018 Gaga Touriga Nacional Snipes Mountain $55 91 points 
This is a rare bottle of 95% Touriga Nacional, with the rest Graciano, coming from a growing region that rarely sees appellated bottles. The aromas bring fascinating notes of coffee, freshly peeled tangerine, red fruit, musk and butterscotch. The palate is full-bodied, textured and flavorful. It has a big yum factor. 

Sparkman 2018 Reunión Graciano Snipes Mountain $55 91 points 
The seldom seen Graciano makes up 92% of this wine. The rest is Touriga Nacional, with all of the fruit coming from Upland Vineyard. Char, coffee, whole orange, vanilla and raspberry, with the palate delivering more of the same. There’s a lovely lick of acidity that ups the interest. 

Sparkman 2018 Wonderland Grenache Columbia Valley $35 91 points 
The aromas fascinate, with notes of gravel, green herb and cigar box. The palate mixes fruit and savory flavors. It hasn’t fully settled in yet but has all of the stuffing. Best after 2021. 

Sparkman 2017 Hallelujah Red Blend Yakima Valley $60 90 points 
This is equal parts Touriga Nacional and Souzão, with the fruit from Upland Vineyard. Aromas of brown sugar, caramel and plum are followed by rich fruit and barrel flavors. It has a nice yum factor. 

Sparkman 2018 Baba Sangiovese Yakima Valley $55 90 points 
This wine is Sangiovese (86%) and Malbec, with the fruit coming from Boushey and Gamache, respectively. The aromas offer notes of coffee, sautéed herb and chocolate. It’s loaded with coffee and cherry flavors. Lightly grainy tannins back it up. It’s delicious, but the oak (34% new French) seems to get in the way of the fruit at times. 

Sparkman 2019 Pearl Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $24 90 points 
Almost two-thirds of the fruit for this wine comes from Oasis Vineyard. The aromas bring notes of grass, Meyer lemon, kiwi, pineapple and herb. The palate is full-bodied and rich, chock-full of tropical fruit flavors that lead to a warm finish. It’s a compelling, warm-site offering of this variety, with plenty of acidity backing it up. 

Sparkman 2017 Enlightenment Old Vines Chardonnay Yakima Valley $50 90 points 
With all of the fruit coming from Olsen Vineyard, toast, peach, wheat, pumpkin and spice aromas are out front. Creamy-feeling flavors follow, showing a sense of restraint. Toasty notes linger on the finish. The oak (44% new French) plays a central role in the show. 

Sparkman 2017 Preposterous Malbec Red Mountain $42 90 points 
Fruit for this wine comes from Klipsun Vineyard, along with dashes of Syrah from Boushey and Ciel du Cheval. Brooding aromas of cola, coffee, herb and chocolate lead to plush fruit and barrel flavors. It’s a charmer. 

Sparkman 2017 Outlaw Merlot Columbia Valley $55 90 points 
Weinbau Vineyard fruit comprises half of this wine, with the rest from Olsen, Kiona and Klipsun. Roasted coffee bean, cherry and chocolate aromas are followed by bountiful raspberry and chocolate flavors. It’s a one-wine charm offensive, with the oak playing prominently. 

Sparkman 2016 Ruckus Syrah Red Mountain $55 90 points 
This wine is rounded with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Viognier, with fruit from Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun and a splash from Boushey. Aromas of blue fruit, dried herbs, raspberry compote and milk are followed by ripe fruit flavors. The variety’s hedonism is on display. 

Sparkman 2018 Apparition Roussanne Yakima Valley $24 89 points 
The aromas are nutty, with notes of almond skin and lees along with seashell. The palate brings texture. It’s part intrigue, part delivery. 

Sparkman 2018 Kindred Red Blend Columbia Valley $25 89 points 
Aromas of brown spices, herbs, vanilla and cherry lead to silky-feeling flavors with plentiful barrel accents. Raspberry notes pop on the finish. There’s enough tannic heft to tie it together. 

Sparkman 2019 This Old Porch Rosé Columbia Valley $22 87 points 
This is a kitchen sink saignée-style rosé that includes a blend of red and white grapes. Showing a bit of bricking, the aromas are generous, with notes of watermelon, herb and strawberry. The palate is fuller feeling, thick at times, getting bogged down. 

Succession 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $44 91 points 
This is 100% varietal, with fruit coming from Lawrence, Weinbau, Famiglia and Quintessence vineyards. The aromas offer notes of char, dried herb, roasted coffee, graphite and dark chocolate. Chocolate and coffee flavors follow, showing a pleasing tartness. The oak plays a prominent part in the show but plays it well. 

Succession 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $72 91 points 
All the fruit for this wine comes from Quintessence Vineyard, which is quickly establishing itself as one of the best in the state. Generous aromas of raspberry, chocolate and dried herb lead to a palate full of fruit of tightly wound tannins. The acidity brings a sense of vibrancy. Give it a bit of additional time in the bottle or decant. 

Succession 2019 Riverview Vineyard Chenin Blanc Wahluke Slope $28 90 points 
Chenin Blanc is increasingly rare in the state, with this example coming from a warmer appellation. You’d never know it on the wine. The aromas are light and appealing, with notes of corn husk, mineral and whole lemon. The palate is medium-bodied, with tart acidity. It’s a lovely example of the variety. 

Succession 2019 Rosé Columbia Valley $26 89 points 
All the fruit for this rosé of Syrah comes from Gamache Vineyard. It’s a pretty pale peach color, with aromas of herb and citrus zest providing appeal. The palate is tart and focused, with a zip of acidity. 

Succession 2019 Our Evolution White Blend Columbia Valley $26 89 points 
Sémillon makes up 61% of this wine, with the rest Sauvignon Blanc (21%) and Viognier. Aromas of ripe peach, fig and flower are followed by medium-bodied flavors. It displays the tartness of the vintage. Stone fruit flavors linger on the finish 

Succession 2018 Bridge Builder’s Blend Columbia Valley $39 89 points 
This wine is 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot and 6% Malbec. Aromas of flowers, freshly chopped herbs and orange rind lead to flavors that bring a pleasing sense of freshness. 

Succession 2018 Syrah Yakima Valley $42 89 points 
Fruit for this wine comes from Candy Mountain Vineyard, which recently became its own subappellation of the valley. Aromas of earth, raspberry and spice aromas lead to flavors that show a pleasing sense of elegance. It’s a pretty offering of this variety. 

Succession 2018 The 5th Year Yakima Valley $72 89 points 
Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon each make up a third of this wine. The aromas are quiet out of the gate, with notes of plum and currant. The palate is full of plump raspberry flavors. There’s an appealing sense of purity. 

Succession 2018 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $46 88 points 
Fruit for this wine comes from Weinbau, Famiglia and Quintessence vineyards. Aromas of raspberry jam, tar and spice are followed by ripe red fruit flavors that display a sense of elegance. It’s alternately a bit overripe and seemingly a little under extracted—a strange mix. 

Succession 2019 Antoine Creek Vineyard Viognier Columbia Valley $28 87 points 
Fruit for this wine comes from Antoine Creek Vineyards in the Lake Chelan appellation. Aromas of canned peach lead to fruit flavors that paint around the edges. It has a pleasing tartness. 

Succession 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $30 87 points 
With fruit coming from Double D Vineyards just outside of the Lake Chelan appellation, the aromas are light and hard to tease out, with whiffs of herb. The palate is more giving, with medium-bodied, almost thick-feeling lemony flavors. It’s hard to see exactly where it’s all going, but there is promise. 

Succession 2018 Merlot Columbia Valley $42 87 points 
Famiglia and Couette vineyards comprise the fruit for this 100% varietal wine. Musk, shoe polish and flower aromas are followed by lightly styled flavors. It’s an odd mix. 

Succession 2018 Reserve Candy Mountain Merlot Yakima Valley $72 87 points 
Light aromas of cherry pit and herb lead to sleek, tart flavors. The palate seems light and disjointed. 

Succession 2018 Reserve Syrah Red Mountain $72 87 points 
Fruit for this wine comes from Quintessence Vineyard. The aromas pop, with notes of raspberry and Craisins. It’s lighter than the aromas might suggest, front loaded and pulling up on the finish. It seems quite overripe, with the fruit dried out. 

Succession 2018 Malbec Columbia Valley $42 86 points 
With fruit coming from Antoine Creek Vineyard, light aromas of varnish and cherry lead to tart, sleek, center-focused flavors. The variety seems hard to find. 

Tamarack 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $35 90 points 
The aromas bring notes of toast, coffee, black cherry, mocha and red berries. The palate has the bright acidity that is the hallmark of the vintage, along with juicy fruit flavors and firm tannins. It’s wound up tightly right now. Best after 2025. 

The Royal Bull 2018 Crown Jewels Columbia Valley $60 89 points 
Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre each make up about a third of this wine. The aromas intrigue, with notes of iron, funk, dried herb and brown spices. It’s ripe in style, with plush feeling fruit and savory flavors that are quite jammy. 

The Royal Bull 2018 Royal Mistress Viognier Columbia Valley $60 88 points 
Half the fruit for this wine comes from Lawrence Vineyard and the rest from Stoneridge. The aromas bring notes of ripe peach, flower and apricot. Full, viscous-feeling flavors follow, with some toasty notes on the finish. A quite warm finish caps it off. There are good things going on, but the ripeness and heat hold it back. 

Valo 2018 Lawrence Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley $30 90 points 
Toast aromas are prominent initially. Behind them are notes of peach and spice. Layered stone fruit flavors follow. There is intensity but no shortage of vibrancy. Give it some time in the bottle for the oak to fully integrate. 

Wild Type 2017 Dionysus Vineyard Riesling Columbia Valley $15 88 points 
The aromas are exuberant, with notes of flower, lime and dried Nestea iced tea. It’s bone-dry and medium-bodied, with a zing of acidity. It will fit in best at the dinner table. 

Wild Type 2016 Dionysus Vineyard Riesling Columbia Valley $15 87 points 
Starting to show its age, this wine offers strong aromas of gasoline and diesel along with rubbed lime leaf and citrus. Bone-dry, medium-bodied flavors. It’s interesting but seems a bit past peak. 

William Weaver 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $15 87 points 
This wine doesn’t seem to have fully settled in as of yet, with aromas of tire rubber, struck match and currant. The concentration comes off as quite light, though there is appealing purity. 

William Weaver 2017 Tattoo Girl Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $15 87 points 
This wine doesn’t seem to have fully settled in as of yet, with aromas of tire rubber, struck match and currant. The concentration comes off as quite light, though there is appealing purity. 

Image by Richard Duval.