Contributing photographer Richard Duval wanders far and wide throughout harvest season looking to capture Washington wine country at its peak. October found him atop the Celilo Vineyard, with Pinot near ready for harvest and stunning views of the Columbia River Gorge.
Pic of the Vine - November 2020
Contributing photographer Richard Duval wanders far and wide throughout harvest season looking to capture Washington wine country at its peak. October found him atop the Celilo Vineyard, with Pinot near ready for harvest and stunning views of the Columbia River Gorge.
Five producers redefining Washington wine
In 50 years, Washington has gone from fledgling wine region to player on the world stage. Quality has never been higher, and the wines have gained critical and consumer attention.
Still, there can be a sameness to many of the state’s wines, and these stylistic similarities are not by chance.
“[People use] the same yeast, the same coopers, and by nature of Washington and its evolution, a lot of the same vineyards,” says Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen, co-owner/winemaker at WT Vintners. Winemakers also often blend across large regions to protect against periodic frosts and freezes, and to take advantage of the best each area has to offer.
“The convention was the sum is greater than its parts,” says Lindsay-Thorsen. “You take a little bit of Red Mountain, a little bit of Walla Walla, a little bit of Yakima and bring them all together, and you have something that is delicious.”
They’re delicious, yes, and distinctly Washington but not necessarily distinctive from each other or showing a very specific sense of place.
Recently, some winemakers have begun to chart a different path. They craft unique wines that focus on vineyard designates, with fruit picked earlier and low-intervention winemaking methods. In doing so, they are redefining not just what Washington is, but also what it can be.
Read the entire article here.
Read the entire article here.
Pic of the Vine - October 2020
Contributing photographer Richard Duval roamed the state from September through October recording harvest and crush activity. In Woodinville, he captured winemaker Jerod Whelchell pressing Sauvignon Blanc for Michael Florentino Cellars. A few days later near Chelan, he caught Ancestry Cellars owner/winemaker Jason Morin striding through Ribbon Cliff Vineyard checking his Sangiovese before the next day’s pick.
Liminal: Wines at the threshold
The next frontier in Washington has long been viticulture – improving site selection, matching variety and clone, and fine tuning viticultural practices. Some estates have long known this, exploring different plantings, trellising, and farming strategies to drive concentration and elevate fruit quality. They have moved Washington wine to another level. Now there is another winery attempting to touch the hand of Bacchus: Liminal Wine.
An unexpected stop
Our story begins in 2018, when Avennia co-owners Marty Taucher and Chris Peterson were touring potential new vineyards. On their way home, they made an initially unplanned stop by a site owned by Taucher’s friend, Cam Myhrvold. At the time, the new vineyard was an open secret on the top of Red Mountain, with the first fruit coming off later that year.
When Taucher and Peterson arrived, what they saw shocked them.
“Our jaws were falling off the ground,” Taucher recalls. “We were looking at the intention behind exploring the terroir and the goals and aspirations of the project. We couldn’t stop talking about the possibilities on the way home.”
They quickly proposed creating a new winery dedicated to the vineyard’s fruit. Myhrvold agreed, in what was subsequently announced at the time as Red Mountain Elevated. With the first wines about to be released, that project has now become Liminal Wine.
“The whole idea of Liminal is that it’s vineyard-driven wine,” says Peterson, with the word defined as occupying a position at a boundary or threshold. “All of us have been doing what we’re doing with this project for a long time and bring a lot of experience from the business aspect to the growing to the winemaking. But this vineyard is allowing all of that experience to express something hopefully new at another level."
A vineyard years in the making
At 360 total acres with 32 planted, WeatherEye sits high on Red Mountain, with some plantings spilling over onto the north side. The vineyard is visually stunning, with sweeping views of Yakima Valley, Columbia Valley, and the Horse Heaven Hills. The plantings show immaculate attention to detail, with vines planted in micro-blocks, often at high density, with a variety of trellising techniques. “We’re spending lots of money on the high density plantings, on sur echalas, and all the bush training and head training that we’re doing,” Myhrvold says. “We’re convinced that viticulture matters and that those things will end up contributing to the quality of the wines”
Myhrvold first purchased the land in 2004 after being tipped off to it by DeLille Cellars co-owner Greg Lille. The area was full of potential but also challenges.
“There was no road. I had no access to the property. I had no water. But I thought it was super interesting."
Over subsequent years, Myhrvold accumulated three additional parcels and also gained water rights. Geologist Alan Busacca recommended Ryan Johnson consult on what should be planted. Johnson is renowned in the Washington wine industry for his former work as long-time vineyard manager at Ciel du Cheval as well as his design of Force Majeure Vineyard on Red Mountain. After looking at what was plantable, Johnson offered to farm the site.
“It was some great, untapped territory,” Johnson told me in 2018.
He subsequently put his passion – some might say obsession – with farming top quality wine grapes to work.
“It’s Ryan’s project,” Myhrvold says humbly of WeatherEye. “I’m just along for the ride. You hire the best talent you can and then stand out of the way.”
Wines at the threshold
Liminal has exclusive access to plantings in a canyon at approximately 1,100+ feet above sea level, hundreds of feet higher than many of the appellation’s famed sites. Fruit from this area comprises three designated, inaugural wines from Liminal. The canyon has eastern facing slopes and soils of windblown silt over fractured basalt, with Rhone varieties planted throughout and lavender at the bottom“We employed our aesthetic tool kit,” Johnson says of the lavender with a laugh. “Yes, qualitatively, we want to grow world class Grenache in this canyon. But it’s got to look pretty cool too.”
Looking at the 2018 Liminal High Canyon Series Grenache, the first thing one notices is the deep color for the variety.
“The first time I saw it, I knew we had something special,” Taucher says.
The wine is full of black raspberry, pomegranate, rose petal and crushed rock. There is textural depth and richness, but still a remarkable sense of acidity and vibrancy along with near perfect balance throughout – easily the best Grenache I’ve had from the Washington side of the Columbia Valley.
The 2018 Liminal High Canyon Syrah, meanwhile, is dense and rich, but again with great freshness and balance, with notes of mulberry, blackberry, kirsch, earth, and bacon fat. It’s an accomplishment, with depth, intensity, layering, polish, texture, and balance – one of the best wines I’ve ever had.
“One thing that has really set [WeatherEye] apart early on is the acidity,” Peterson says. “The site just seems to retain it better.”
Last, but far from least, there is a 2018 High Canyon Viognier, offering notes of mineral, peach and lees. There’s an enchanting mouthfeel and flavors, but acid is the driver – a surprise for this variety.
“There’s a great range of flavor and characteristics that I think we’re getting from this canyon that you wouldn’t get off a conventional planting,” Johnson says. “That’s a theory. We’re still a young vineyard, young planting, young wines.”
Exploring northern aspects
“You can see this stair-step effect,” he says. “You go lower Red Mountain, pretty ripe. Upper canyon, it’s a little bit behind in ripeness. Then the stuff on the north is even further behind.”
Especially in warmer vintages, Red Mountain’s heat can become a determining factor on when grapes are picked, as sugar can accumulate quickly. With the north side considerably cooler and higher, grapes reach maturity at a more measured pace.
“We’re able to ease into our ripeness,” Johnson says. “That allows (Chris) Peterson to really choose that window that he wants to bring that fruit in.”
Liminal’s Block 16 Syrah comes from the highest plantings currently on Red Mountain at 1,230 feet above sea level (the mountain itself maxes out at 1,411 feet). The block is planted sur echalas – on stakes – at reasonably high density.
“You combine higher elevation with north aspect, and high density plantings, that’s kind of our trifecta of complexity and extra dimensions to the fruit,” Johnson says.
And does this wine have it. While it’s more aromatically brooding initially than the High Canyon Syrah, the flavors are intense and show layers of nuance, with remarkable acidity that takes the wine to another level.
Completing the inaugural Rhone releases, Liminal’s 2018 Vineyard Series GSM (42% Grenache, 38% Mourvèdre, and 20% Syrah) comes from several different blocks at WeatherEye. It’s outrageously delicious, with aromas and flavors of pomegranate, mulberry, mineral and black pepper, a big mouthful of a wine with notable freshness – shockingly good.
Achieving the sublime
Visiting WeatherEye Vineyard, it is impossible not to see the potential. However, tasting the Liminal wines shows the reality. These are not only the most impressive inaugural releases I have had from any winery in Washington to date. They are some of the very best wines I have ever tasted from the state, true accomplishments to a one. There is aromatic complexity, texture, detail, depth, length, balance, and most impressively, abundant acidity.
“We’re pretty excited to share the wines with the world,” says Taucher, with the wines slated to be released later this month.
Given the quality levels, the wines are well-priced between $50 and $75. Alas, production is extremely limited, ranging from a miniscule 40 cases to a still quite modest 225, with the wines sold in three packs to list members and some immediately selling out. That said, these are still wines more than worth pursuing in this vintage and in subsequent vintages. They are examples of the high heights Washington wine can achieve when site selection and viticulture are pushed to their extreme.
“It’s not easy to do this,” Johnson says of farming WeatherEye. “It takes a lot of time and money and attention. We’re tired. But jeez, you taste these wines and you get excited all over again.”
In addition to Liminal, a number of other wineries in Washington are also working with WeatherEye Vineyard fruit. Estate wines from WeatherEye are also in the offing. Tasting the Liminal wines, there seems to be no limit as to what can be achieved.
“We just opened Pandora’s box here,” Johnson says. “All bets are off. We’re trying to blow the roof off Washington State with this.”
With the inaugural Liminal wines, mission accomplished.
Picture 1: High Canyon, WeatherEye Vineyard, courtesy of Liminal Wines
Picture 2: From left to right, Marty Taucher, Ryan Johnson, Cam Myhrvold, Chris Peterson
Picture 3: Courtesy of Liminal Wines
Picture 4: North side plantings of Syrah and Mourvèdre, courtesy of Ryan Johnson
Pic of the Vine - September 2020
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Sweet 16: Candy Mountain becomes Washington’s newest appellation
With the approval today of Candy Mountain as an American Viticultural Area (AVA), Washington gained its 16th federally recognized grape growing region. The appellation comes close on the heels of Royal Slope, which was approved earlier this month.
“It has the potential to be the most visible AVA in the state,” says geologist Kevin Pogue.
This is not hyperbole.
Many appellations in Washington are either quite large in size, a bit off the beaten path, or both, making them difficult to easily visualize. With Candy Mountain small, discrete, and bordered by Interstate 82 on one side and I-182 on another, the prominence is unmissable to travelers going to and from the Tri-Cities, where it takes a commanding, central view as it rises up from the surrounding Pasco Basin.
At 815 total acres, Candy Mountain is by far Washington’s smallest appellation, a distinction previously held by Red Mountain (4,040 acres). In fact, lying just four miles to the southeast, Candy Mountain shares other attributes with that esteemed appellation beyond its diminutive size.
“It’s pretty much a Red Mountain lookalike,” says Marty Clubb, co-owner and managing winemaker at L’Ecole No. 41, which has been sourcing fruit from Candy Mountain since 2002. “It’s warm, like Red Mountain. Compared to other areas, you typically see richer structure, a little more extraction, riper fruit flavors. Pretty healthy tannin levels.”
Winemaker Seth Kitzke, whose family owns Kitzke Cellars, the only winery on Candy Mountain, agrees the two appellations share commonalities.
“When you try the wines, I feel like there are more similarities between the two AVAs than differences,” Kitzke says. “I don’t think you get as much direct wind [on Candy Mountain] because Goose Ridge is across the valley, so the tannin structure maybe isn’t as big as Red Mountain. But the fruit character, the ripeness levels, and your timing with harvest, you’re sure not far behind them.”
Like Red Mountain, Candy Mountain is part of the Yakima Fold Belt, a series of buckles in the earth. Grape growers have leveraged these buckles by planting on their southern aspects, allowing vines to soak up the sun’s heat. To wit, the Rattlesnake Hills, Snipes Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills, and Royal Slope appellations are also on Yakima Fold Belt structures. These folds also provide good air drainage, which helps protect against frosts and freezes.
“People have figured out that the south facing sides of Yakima Fold Belt anticlines are great places to grow grapes,” says Pogue, who owns the vineyard and terroir consulting company VinTerra and was contracted to write the Candy Mountain application. Elevations in the appellation range from 640 to 1,360 feet above sea level, with slopes between five and 20 degrees. Soils are made up of windblown sand and silt above basalt bedrock, with a layer of gravel or slackwater sediment in between the two below 1,200 feet. All of the appellation is located on the mountain’s southwestern side.
“My guiding principles were southern aspect and sloped terrain,” Pogue says.
Long Shadows winemaker Gilles Nicault has been working with Candy Mountain fruit for 17 years. He says the appellation’s elevation and aspect are key.
“What I really like about [Candy Mountain] is it has this perfect terroir,” Nicault says. “It’s a beautiful, small, uniform slope facing south. It’s the perfect elevation in my mind.”
Nicault says Candy Mountain’s warm summer days lead to ripe fruit flavors.
“The exposure is always yielding fruit that has a very nice physiological maturity, not necessarily at lower sugar, but at beautiful ripening of the phenols and the flavors and great intensity of color.”
The Candy Mountain appellation proposal was spearheaded by Ramer Holtan, a retired lawyer who first purchased land on the mountain along with a group of investors in 2001. Holtan now owns 290 acres in the area and leases another 107, although some of this land lies outside the appellation’s boundaries.
“I got excited about what was happening in eastern Washington,” Holtan says of petitioning to have Candy Mountain recognized as its own growing region.
Holtan has partnered with others to plant 58 acres on the mountain, with the vineyard’s first harvest this year. In total, the appellation has 110 acres in production, with much of it planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Sangiovese.
“It’s a special site,” Holtan says of Candy Mountain, a sub-appellation of Yakima Valley as well as the larger Columbia Valley. “Except for what’s planted now, it’s generally a blank canvas. It’s pretty exciting.”
While the Candy Mountain appellation undoubtedly will have great visual prominence to people passing by the area, it’s unlikely to have great vinous prominence in the near term. In addition to the small amount of planted and total acreage, much of the fruit currently goes into larger, Columbia Valley designated blends. This means, even with the appellation’s approval, there will not be a rush of Candy Mountain labeled wines hitting the shelves any time soon.
Still, with Candy Mountain’s newfound appellation status and additional acreage planned, that could change in the longer term. L’Ecole, for one, has already made a Candy Mountain Vineyard designated wine in some previous vintages, with impressive results.
“We had a lot of customers who really loved those wines,” Clubb notes.
For now, Washington wine lovers will have to make due enjoying Candy Mountain wines from Kitzke Cellars, Succession, and Liberty Lake Cellars, as well as Candy Mountain-heavy wines from Long Shadows and L’Ecole as they celebrate the state’s newest appellation.
But make sure to leave some bubbles in the cellar. While Washington’s 16th appellation sure is sweet, the state currently has a number of other appellation applications pending.
NB: Succession’s 2018 Syrah is from Candy Mountain Vineyard as is Liberty Lake Cellars 2017 Tahija Sangiovese and 2019 Rosé. For Long Shadows, Candy Mountain fruit comprises significant parts of the Saggi (specifically part of the Sangiovese component); Chester-Kidder (specifically Cabernet Sauvignon), and Pedestal (part of the Merlot in this wine). For L’Ecole, Candy Mountain fruit makes up significant parts of the winery’s Columbia Valley Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.
Images courtesy of Kevin Pogue.
Washington gets its 15th appellation: the Royal Slope
Washington gained its 15th appellation September 2nd, with the approval of the Royal Slope, the U.S.’s latest American Viticultural Area (AVA).
“I personally think it’s the best overall appellation in the state,” says Aryn Morell, who makes wines for Gård Vintners, as well as his own A. Morell Wines, using grapes from the Royal Slope.
Read the rest of the article here.
Picture courtesy of Stillwater Creek Vineyard
Pic of the Vine - August 2020
Pictured here, the last burst of summer sun pushes Whidbey Island Winery's vineyard toward harvest.“Greg Osenbach has been steadily creating wines from the island for 30 years,” noted contributing photographer Richard Duval. “His lovingly maintained vineyard – all white wine grapes -- just outside of the town of Langley has long been a favorite of mine for late day photos. I’m keen to return later this season for harvest shooting.”
Click on the picture to see a larger image.
Harvest begins in Washington
Harvest has begun in the Columbia Valley. Fidélitas on Red Mountain started things off on August 19th, picking Sauvignon Blanc from Klipsun Vineyard. Others quickly followed suit, with DeLille Cellars and L’Ecole No 41 also picking Sauvignon Blanc from Klipsun on August 20th and 21st respectively. L’Ecole winemaker Marcus Rafanelli noted the recent hot weather accelerated the winery's decision to pick.Meanwhile harvest for sparkling wines also began on the 21st. Treveri Cellars picked Chardonnay from Hilltop Vineyard in Yakima Valley. Winemaker and senior vice president of sales Christian Grieb says that the grapes came in at 18.1 Brix with a 3.1pH. “Perfect for bubbly,” Grieb says. He picked this same fruit on the exact same date in 2019.
Finally, Tyler Harlington, winemaker at Four Feathers, reported that the winery picked Chardonnay for sparkling wine from Stonemark Vineyard in Rattlesnake Hills on August 21st (Brix: 18; pH: 3.03; TA: 11.8 g/L). “Great flavor development and balance,” Harlington notes.
Let the 2020 Harvest begin!
Photo courtesy of Tom Merkle, director of viticulture, Four Feathers.
L’Ecole continues to carry the banner for Washington Merlot
L’Ecole’s commitment to Merlot dates back to the winery’s inception.
“Going back to the very, very, very beginning, [founders] Jean and Baker [Ferguson] decided to focus on Semillon and Merlot,” says their son-in-law Marty Clubb, who joined the winery in 1989 and is now owner and managing winemaker.
While Merlot would in time become synonymous with red wine in America, that was still a ways off.
“Back then, nobody had ever even really heard of Merlot,” Clubb says. “Everybody thought of wine as either Gallo Hearty Burgundy or a jug of Chablis, and I don’t mean real Chablis.”
Come the 1990s, Merlot was a star in the U.S., gracing the cover of national magazines, with L’Ecole benefitting handsomely from the attention given to the variety. Merlot even became L'Ecole's most produced wine.
In retrospect, Clubb says it’s surprising how good the early Merlots were.
“The viticultural knowhow in the 80s and early 90s quite frankly was too big canopies, too much water, too much fruit, too big of berries, the clusters were too big, yet despite all that, the wines were good. They were!”
Clubb says the quality of Washington wine improved dramatically in the late 1990s, once growers became more focused on the modern grape growing techniques of canopy management, irrigation management, and yield management.
Initially, L’Ecole’s Merlot came from the wider Columbia Valley.
Initially, L’Ecole’s Merlot came from the wider Columbia Valley.
“Prior to 92-93, there was essentially no fruit in [Walla Walla] valley,” Clubb says. As additional acres were planted, L’Ecole subsequently added a Walla Walla Valley Merlot to its lineup in addition to its Columbia Valley Merlot.
The 2017 L’Ecole Columbia Valley Merlot was my 2020 Washington Merlot Challenge wine for June. It’s full of the fruit flavors that the variety is known for, but the real separator is the wine’s structure. There’s plenty of the tannin that Washington Merlots offer, but there is also an invigorating sense of acidity (Wine Enthusiast, 92 points, Editor’s Choice). Clubb credits September temperatures for making 2017 a special vintage for Merlot. “That cool down just makes such a phenomenal difference for early ripening varieties like Merlot in terms of keeping a sense of freshness, better acidity, better balance."
Impressively, I enjoyed this wine over the course of a week, and it only ramped up and maintained during that time, with impressive staying power that bodes well for its aging potential.
Almost 40 years since the winery opened its doors, L’Ecole’s commitment to Merlot remains strong, though Cabernet Sauvignon is now its most produced variety. As we all know, in the mid-2000s, Merlot’s fortunes turned in the U.S.
“In order to continue to sell Merlot competitively, you saw price constraints,” Clubb says. To wit, the winery’s 2017 Columbia Valley Merlot goes for a feels-like-stealing $25. “It was 30 bucks 20 years ago,” Clubb notes.
Still, Clubb says L’Ecole’s commitment to Merlot is unwavering.
“I have no intention of not doing Merlot. The quality of Merlot in Washington is fantastic.”
Picture of Marty Clubb by Richard Duval.
Pic of the Vine - July 2020
As wineries and tasting rooms started to work amidst pandemic restrictions, contributing photographer Richard Duval began his long-delayed travels around the Washington wine community. Keeping to all precautions and staying within the restrictions of the regions, he’s made brief forays to eastern Washington wine country, including a rich (and solo) morning to Double D Vineyard, the estate vineyard of Rocky Pond Winery.Situated along the Columbia River just south of Chelan against the backdrop of the craggy the Entiat Mountains, the vineyard has long been a favorite stop for Duval. This particular morning underscored the reasons.
“It was a perfect temperature and soft morning light poured like honey along the rows from where winemaker Shane Collins makes his magic,” Duval said. “A wonderful morning that uplifted my spirits and reminded me yet again of the beauty and the resiliency of Washington wine country.”
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Veraison begins in eastern Washington
Veraison, the changing of color of the grapes, has commenced in the Columbia Valley.Precept Wine vineyard manager Brittany Komm-Sanders noted veraison in Cabernet Sauvignon and Dolcetto at the winery's Skyfall Vineyard in Yakima Valley on July 21st. Veraison began in Cabernet on that same date in 2019 and on July 12th for Dolcetto.
Meanwhile Browne Family Vineyard in Walla Walla Valley, another Precept property, saw veraison in its Tempranillo. Veraison occurred in this same block on July 23rd last year.
Overall, 2020 Growing Degree Days, a measure of heat accumulation, are slightly above long-term averages.
Veraison always means one thing: harvest is not far off.
Picture courtesy of Brittany Komm-Sanders.
The ‘soft wisdom’ of Reininger Walla Walla Valley Merlot
Chuck Reininger of Reininger Winery was not always destined for a life of wine.“My dream was to start a brewery,” Reininger recalls. However, fate soon took him in a different direction.
Having grown up in Bellevue, Washington, Reininger subsequently married a woman with a five generation Walla Walla Valley history. The family moved to the valley in 1992, with Reininger planning to pursue his dream.
However, he had been assisting the Rindals at Waterbrook Winery off and on since 1984 when visiting the valley. After moving there, Reininger began working at Waterbrook as a cellar hand. In 1993, he made his first home wine.
“That was my ‘Aha!’ moment,” Reininger says. “It just really, really caught my attention.”
Having a long love of mountain climbing, Reininger was drawn to the connection of the soil to the wine.
“It became very evident to me that the vine is an umbilical cord between the soils and the wines we make,” Reininger says. “That’s the exact reason that I climb, being in awe of the forces that created our world.”
He soon began to focus his efforts on starting a winery. Audaciously, Reininger decided to focus exclusively on Walla Walla Valley fruit.
At this time, the valley was still only home to several handfuls of wineries, with most focused on fruit from the larger Columbia Valley, supplementing that with Walla Walla fruit. Reininger, along with Cayuse with the release of its 1998 Syrah, would focus exclusively on Walla Walla Valley fruit.
“Some of the early winemakers told me I was absolutely insane and crazy for doing that,” Reininger recalls, laughing. “They said, ‘Chuck, every seven years or so you’re going to end up with no fruit!’ And they were smart. They were right!”
Indeed, in 2004, as if on schedule from when he started the winery, the valley suffered a major freeze event. However, Reininger pressed on and simply built potential fruit loss into his business plan.
“To me, it was really important that our wines told the story of Walla Walla, the soils, and our family history here,” Reininger says. “It’s our home.”
Initially, Reininger made Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. In his first year as a commercial winemaker, 1997, he was unable to source Merlot from Walla Walla, and so made it from Canoe Ridge fruit, the only time this has been the case.
Reininger says Washington in general and Walla Walla Valley in particular are special spots for Merlot.
“I think there’s really two places in the world that grow exceptional Merlot. That’s the Right Bank and Washington State, and I think in particular Walla Walla.”
Over the years, Reininger has made his Merlot a blend of Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge Vineyard fruit.
“Seven Hills, the soils are a little sandier. The tannins I think are a little bit finer there. Pepper Bridge has a little more clay content to it, so I think we get a little more rounder tannins out of that. I think we get a little more cherry aspect out of Seven Hills and a little bit more plum out of Pepper Bridge, generally speaking.”
Part of what makes Walla Walla Valley Merlot special, however, is that it’s not just all fruit.
“There’s big fruit, but then there’s also some really nice earthiness too I think that we can get out of it, and a little bit of cocoa or chocolate that I find particular in Walla Walla,” Reininger says.
For Reininger, a key to making successful Merlot in Washington is not just getting great fruit, it is also how that fruit is treated in the winery.
“I think the use of oak on [Merlot], you have to be careful,” he says. “You have to be really judicious with it.” The winery generally uses about 30% new oak, depending on the vintage, with much of that American.
“I enjoy the way American oak compliments the subtle Walla Walla Valley Merlot cocoa notes in particular but also enjoy a touch of French exotic spice and tannin in the mix as well,” Reininger says.I started drinking Reininger Merlot in the 2000 vintage at the recommendation of my local winery store owner. At the time, Two Buck Chuck wine from Trader Joe’s was the rage. When I asked my local retailer about the Reininger wine, he told me it was affectionately known as ‘22 buck Chuck,’ a play on the Trader Joe’s wine, the price, and winemaker’s name.
I remember being mesmerized by that wine, smelling something I never had before. The Reininger Merlot was also the first Washington wine I remember going back to the store and buying a second bottle (and then a third) rather than just continuing on my journey of vinous exploration. I liked it so much I saved the label in a book I kept.
The 2017 Reininger Walla Walla Valley Merlot was my 2020 Washington Merlot Challenge wine for May. It has everything there is to love about Walla Walla Valley Merlot, with coffee and raspberry aromas with graphite and spice accents. The palate is dominated by structure right now, but there’s plenty of fruit behind it, with chocolate notes lingering on the finish. It’s one for the cellar with plenty of rewards.
The 2017 vintage represents the winery’s first label change, with the image representing mountain ranges in Washington state.
“You can see the Olympic Mountains, the Cascade Mountains that I call the great squeegee,” Reininger explains. “In the upper right corner are the Selkirks, which are the northern part of the Northern Rockies. Then in the lower righthand corner is the Blue Mountains.”While Reininger's long love of the mountains was part of the inspiration, there was another intent as well.
“All of those mountains have specific effects on the climate of eastern Washington and help make eastern Washington have the consistent vintages that it does.”
More than 20 years after he made his first commercial wine, Reininger remains a champion of Washington Merlot.
“It certainly deserves to be on a pedestal,” he says. “It’s a fantastic wine. It has a soft wisdom to it, if that makes any sense.”
Photo of Chuck Reininger by Richard Duval.
The Long Haul of Mark Ryan Winery Merlot
Many wine lovers have epiphanies in their wine journeys. For Mark McNeilly, founder of Woodinville’s Mark Ryan Winery, his “kick in the head” from Washington Merlot came early.“I was working for Unique Wine Company [and] making garage wine back in the late 90s,” McNeilly recalls. “I bought a six pack of L’Ecole Merlot from Larry’s Market in North Seattle, and I brought it home and said, ‘Okay, I’m going to start a wine cellar.’”
Things did not turn out as planned.
“We tanked that whole six pack the first weekend!” McNeilly says laughing, as he recalls pouring the wine into a large bowl and then back into the bottle as he didn’t own a decanter.
“I can taste that wine right now. It was so good! It was glorious! It kind of felt like Cabernet but had the softness of this great Merlot fruit.”
When McNeilly launched Mark Ryan winery in 1999, he didn’t start out necessarily intending to put a spotlight on the variety.
“I set out to try and make these great blends that a lot of people were doing,” McNeilly says. “Those were the wines that I fell in love with from Washington. Merlot was always a part of that, but I don’t know if I set out to make Merlot.”
What he did set out to do was focus on fruit from Red Mountain fruit, initially stalwart vineyards Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun, which remain key fruit sources. The two blends McNeilly began with were the Cabernet Sauvignon focused Dead Horse and Merlot dominant Long Haul, two wines that would come to define the winery for Washington wine lovers everywhere. As it turns out, Red Mountain is a special spot for Merlot.
“It’s a windy site, so the grapes are often smaller with thicker skins making them a little bit more tannic,” McNeilly explains. “So what you have is that really soft fruit that Merlot offers, but it’s wrapped in some great structure from Red Mountain. It takes something that could be a little simple and fruity and gives it a lot more complexity and depth.”
Over time, the winery’s Long Haul has evolved.
“Every year, I kept putting more and more Merlot into it,” McNeilly says. In fact, the 2015 through 2017 wines have been varietally designated rather than listed as a red wine as in previous years.
In 2015, the winery also a reserve Merlot, called Little Sister, to its portfolio. 100% varietal, it’s made from a selection of the winery’s top barrels.
“We have access to the very best Merlot planted in Washington state,” McNeilly says. “[Winemaker] Mike [Macmorran] and I go through and we choose very specific vineyards, lots, and barrels and put a small blend of 100% Merlot together.”
The 2017 vintage was my 2020 Washington Merlot Challenge wine for April. Most of the fruit comes from Quintessence Vineyard on Red Mountain, where Mark Ryan partnered with grower Dick Shaw to have vines planted for the winery. The rest comes from esteemed Red Willow. Aromas of Red Vines, dark raspberry, herb and dark chocolate lead to palate coating, textured fruit flavors, showing depth and freshness (Wine Enthusiast 93 points, Cellar Selection). Like the Merlot that inspired Mark McNeilly all those years ago, it too is a glorious wine.
And the name?
“Merlot is the little sister to Cabernet in weight and style,” McNeilly says. “It’s also a pretty killer Queens of the Stone Age song.”
While Merlot has taken its licks in the last 15 years, McNeilly says there is no shame in loving the variety.
“It’s got great structure, but it’s got all that plush dark fruit which is so good. It’s supremely drinkable. People should be proud to be ordering Merlot.”
Bloom begins in eastern Washington
Bloom has begun in the Columbia Valley, with vineyard manager Brittany Komm-Sanders of Precept Wine seeing it in Chardonnay at Skyfall Vineyard in Yakima Valley on May 21st. Komm-Sanders noted bloom began in this same block on May 24th in 2019.Here we go!
Northstar remains a guiding light for Washington Merlot
Merriam Webster Dictionary defines North Star as “the star of the northern hemisphere toward which the axis of the earth points.” So the axis of Washington wine once pointed strongly toward the singularity of the state’s Merlot.Northstar Winery was founded in 1994 by Stimson Lane, the parent company of Chateau Ste Michelle, with the goal of producing high end Merlot (Stimson Lane has subsequently been renamed Ste Michelle Wine Estates).
“Back then, Merlot was the number one red in the U.S.,” recalls Northstar winemaker David Merfeld.
There were plenty of reason to believe that Washington could excel at making Merlot. Leonetti Cellar, Woodward Canyon, Andrew Will, Seven Hills Winery, and many others had shown great success with the variety. There was even talk of Merlot being Washington’s ‘signature variety.’
These were also still relatively early days in the Washington wine industry. While there had been plenty of successes, there was also concern about the state’s cold winters and, to some extent, whether it was warm enough to consistently grow certain red varieties. In this way, Merlot seemed a perfect fit.
“Merlot always gets ripe in Washington,” Merfeld says. “Going back to when I was first starting 20 something years ago, in those vintages Cab didn’t always get ripe. In cooler vintages, it didn’t quite make it. The quality was not as high as it is now. Merlot always got ripe.”
Back in 2000, David Merfeld was working as a brewer at Bert Grants, a brewery owned by Stimson Lane. When the company prepared to sell the brand, they asked Merfeld if he wanted to stay on board, working for Northstar.
“I went directly from the brewery,” Merfeld recalls. “It was right after Labor Day weekend, and I went to our winery at the old Saddle Mountain location.”
Merfeld started out working the night shift overseeing white wine pressing for Ste Michelle, while working at Northstar during the day.
“It was the first time I’d ever seen grapes being harvested,” he recalls.
In 2004, Northstar opened its winery in Walla Walla Valley, with Leonetti Cellar, Seven Hills Winery, Spring Valley Vineyard, L'Ecole No. 41, and others showing the valley to be a special spot for the variety. Come 2006, Merfeld was named winemaker.What does Merfeld believe makes Merlot special as a variety?
“I love Merlot because to me it’s just an elegant wine with a velvety texture to it. It pairs well with so many foods. Cabernet I love, but that one kind of hits you over the head.”
Northstar makes three different offerings of Merlot. The first is its flagship Columbia Valley wine, which has been produced since 1994. This Merlot is sourced from over 20 different vineyards throughout the valley. Starting in 2000, Northstar also started making a Walla Walla Valley Merlot.
“Walla Walla is a special place [for Merlot],” Merfeld says. “We’ve probably got three different types of wines you can make, from the valley floor around Pepper Bridge and Northstar to Spring Valley down to all of the things that are going on down by Seven Hills and Anna Marie [Vineyard].” The winery also makes a Premier Merlot, intended for longer term aging.
Washington Merlot is known for its often firmer tannic structure than many of the wines found elsewhere in the world. This along with its ripe, sumptuous fruit flavors, are what delivers so much of the appeal of Washington Merlots. One of the ways that Merfeld accommodates for this additional structure is by using a substantial amount of whole berry fermentation, often between 40-60%.
“That definitely helps to soften the wines,” he says. Merfeld also prefers a slower overall fermentation.
“I like it better when I stretch it out for the tannins, and I also think you get better aromatics. You lock them in a little better.”
For March, my 2020 Washington Merlot Challenge wine was the Northstar 2010 Columbia Valley Merlot. 2010 was a cool vintage, the coolest the state had seen since 1999. The wine was in a beautiful spot, still seeming remarkably youthful, with notes of mint, raspberry, and chocolate. It had the smooth, textured palate that great Washington Merlot can offer along with the vibrant acidity of the vintage.
“I love the cooler vintages,” Merfeld says. “We’ve adjusted and adapted to these [recent] warmer vintages, but the cool ones always stand out. We always get phenolic ripeness and color. It’s about locking that acid in. That vintage was pretty special.”
In the last decade, Cabernet Sauvignon has risen to supremacy in Washington, now making up 44% of the state’s annual red grape production. Merlot has taken a back seat. Merfeld is sanguine about the state’s turn toward Cabernet.
“I don’t think there’s any stopping Cabernet right now,” he says, noting that Washington can do the variety particularly well.
“It’s really high quality especially for the price out of Washington State. People dig it and want it. That’s not going away, but hopefully we maintain our Merlot and have it grow.”
As I have written before, Washington becoming the land of Cabernet does not make the state’s Merlots any less compelling than they were 20 years ago. These remain world class wines. If you’re looking for a primer on what the state can do with the variety, Northstar is an excellent place to start.
“We’ve done tastings with Merlot from all over the world, and Washington stands out,” Merfeld says. “I’m not just saying that because we’re here. I’ve had some really good Merlot from Italy and from France. But they are usually pretty expensive.”
In contrast, Washington can offer exceptional quality Merlot at reasonable prices, creating wines that rank among the best in the world.
“I don’t think anybody does it better than Washington State for Merlot,” Merfeld says. “This is the spot. That’s why I’m at Northstar.”
A virtual tour of Washington state wine
The following article appeared in Wine Enthusiast on-line April 28, 2020.
When people think of Washington State, they often think of ever-soggy Seattle. In fact, most of Washington’s winegrowing regions are east of the Cascade Mountain range, in arid and semi-arid desert climates.
The country’s second-largest producer of wine, Washington has 14 federally approved winegrowing regions, or appellations, with six more in review. Each has a distinct topography, soil and climate that produce unique wines.
With warm temperatures during the growing season and a relative lack of rainfall, irrigation is required in most vineyards. However, this gives growers a fine degree of control that has led to consistent quality across vintages.
Here we take you on a tour of some of Washington’s key appellations and wine regions. Also highlighted are upcoming virtual events to learn more about these region’s producers and their wines.
Read the rest of the article here.
Image by Richard Duval.
When people think of Washington State, they often think of ever-soggy Seattle. In fact, most of Washington’s winegrowing regions are east of the Cascade Mountain range, in arid and semi-arid desert climates.The country’s second-largest producer of wine, Washington has 14 federally approved winegrowing regions, or appellations, with six more in review. Each has a distinct topography, soil and climate that produce unique wines.
With warm temperatures during the growing season and a relative lack of rainfall, irrigation is required in most vineyards. However, this gives growers a fine degree of control that has led to consistent quality across vintages.
Here we take you on a tour of some of Washington’s key appellations and wine regions. Also highlighted are upcoming virtual events to learn more about these region’s producers and their wines.
Read the rest of the article here.
Image by Richard Duval.
Bud break in eastern Washington
Bud break is beginning in eastern Washington. James Mantone, owner and winemaker at Syncline Winery, noted bud break in Gamay Noir, pictured here, at the winery's Steep Creek Ranch Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge appellation on March 27th. Mantone said this was about five to seven days earlier than in 2019.Meanwhile Ryan Driver, vineyard manager at Tertulia Cellars, noted bud break on that same date in Syrah at the winery's Elevation Vineyard in Walla Walla Valley. Driver said bud break occurred on April 9th in 2019 and said this is the earliest bud break he has seen at the site, which was planted in 2013. This indicates the season is off to an early start.
Let the 2020 growing season begin!
Image courtesy of Syncline Winery
10 Washington wines to help you drink well during the COVID-19 outbreak
Well folks, hard times are upon us, but that doesn’t mean we can't still enjoy wine. It just means having to drink a little smarter, as many are forced to tighten the purse strings. Thankfully, Washington wine is your friend in this regard, offering an abundance of high quality wines wines that deliver well above their price point.
From the April set of reviews from Wine Enthusiast, I’ve singled out here 10 wines to help us all get through these tough times. They are all exceedingly well priced for the quality that’s in the bottle. As lovers of Washington wine know, there are many more like them (see the full list of April reviews below). See a list of promotions that Washington wineries are doing here.
Without further ado!
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Dry Riesling Columbia Valley $9, 91 points, Best Buy
What more can I say about the Ste Michelle Dry Riesling that I haven’t said before? This is quite simply the best wine value in the United States. Period. Better still, you can find it at your grocery store while you’re stocking up (not hoarding people!) on toilet paper. 2018 is one of the best vintages ever. Only seeing the 2017 or 2016? Don't worry. They are supremely delicious too.
Involuntary Commitment 2018 Columbia Valley $20 92 points
Well, well, well. Since the release of the first vintage, the Involuntary Commitment wines, a side project from the folks at Andrew Will, have hit way above their weight class. The 2018 vintage is something else altogether, however, drinking easily like a wine two times or more times the price. You just don’t ever see this kind of quality at this price in Washington for Bordeaux-style wines. Stock up. This early release wine also augurs well for the 2018 vintage in Washington.
Grosgrain 2018 Petit Grosgrain Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $24, 93 points, Editor’s Choice
I did a triple take when I saw the price of this wine from Grosgrain. Then I double checked it on-line. A blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Grenache from Walla Walla Valley at this quality and price? Unheard of. Far from a big bruiser, this wine is all about elegance and sophistication. But it is the balance and length that truly separates it.
Animale 2016 Stainless Steel Aged Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $26, 93 points, Editor’s Choice
This wine from Animale is one of the most exciting wines I’ve ever had from Washington – wholly fermented in stainless steel. It shows a level of purity and detail that is completely mesmerizing. Honestly, it’s changed the way that I think about Cabernet Franc in Washington, and it’s only $26.
L'Ecole No. 41 2018 Semillon Columbia Valley $15 91 points, Editor’s Choice
The L’Ecole Semillon is one of Washington’s best kept secrets. Year after year after year, it delivers. The 2018 vintage is one of the winery’s best yet, with full fruit flavors of fig and kiwi. Better still, it’s a wine that only improves with some time in the cellar, perfect for hunkering down for the days ahead.
L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Merlot Columbia Valley $25, 92 points, Editor’s Choice
This bottle from L’Ecole encapsulates everything that I love about Washington Merlot. Broad feeling and fruitful, but with more than ample acidity and firm tannic structure backing it up. It’s Washington Merlot at its best. I kept coming back to this wine over an almost two week period, and it seemed to be near immortal, perfect for now or stashing away.
Syncline 2018 Subduction Columbia Valley $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice
This wine from Gorge producer Syncline is a consistent standout, and the 2018 vintage continues that trend. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Cinsault, it has arresting aromas of blue fruit, strawberry and herb that lead to bright, focused fruit flavors. If you’re looking for a wine that puts a premium on purity and elegance, look no further.
Seven Hills Winery 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $25, 92 points, Editor's Choice
This wine was the inspiration for the 2020 Washington Merlot Challenge. 2017 is looking to be a stellar vintage for Merlot. This wine is full of aromas and flavors of raspberry, red currant, baking spice and milk chocolate, showing a sense of deftness. It delivers a whole lot of quality for this price.
Ott & Hunter 2017 Double Bluff Whidbey Island Landmark Series Columbia Valley $23 90 points
This Whidbey Island producer, renamed Ott & Hunter from Ott & Murphy, has been quietly chugging along, making high quality, well priced wines for some time. This blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Counoise, and Cinsault is full of peppery spices and light, juicy flavors that show a lot of elegance.
Reininger 2017 Mr. Owl’s Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $20 91 points
Cabernet Sauvignon from Reininger makes up over half of this wine, with the balance Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. The aromas are exuberant, with notes of orange peel, cherry, and fresh flower. A full feeling palate follows, brightened by tart acidity. Give it a decant if drinking in the near term. High quality Walla Walla wine for $20? Yes please.
Colter's Creek 2017 Estate Bottled Syrah Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $20 91 points
Bonus wine! What’s this Idaho interloper doing on this Washington wine list? Delivering some kick ass value from this cross border appellation, that’s what! Colter’s Creek is making increasingly compelling wines from this nascent appellation (see other reviews below). This offering is full of fruit forward aromas and flavors of blueberry pie and orange rind with a sumptuous feel.
Below is a full list of April Wine Enthusiast reviews. Enjoy!
* * *
Animale 2016 Stainless Steel Aged Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $26 93 points
This is the only example of this variety I am aware of from the state all aged in stainless steel. The aromas offer uncommon purity, depth and detail, with notes of strawberry, raspberry, herb, whole orange and whiffs of cranberry. The palate is layered and exquisitely balanced and has a long, orange- and cranberry-filled finish. It’s spectacular—an accomplishment. Editor's Choice
Animale 2016 Reserve Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $28 92 points
Bright, achingly pure aromas of raspberry, strawberry and cranberry are followed by palate-coating fruit flavors that show more of the same. A long, blood orange- and cranberry-filled finish follows. It’s a complete delight—one of the best offerings of this variety coming out of the state. Editor's Choice
Array 2015 Dijon Clone Chardonnay Yakima Valley $32 91 points
This winery focuses exclusively on Chardonnay. Aromas of corn on the cob, peach, lees and spice are followed by full-bodied, textured stone fruit flavors that stretch out on the clean finish. It’s a compelling example of the variety.
Array 2015 Nina’s Reserve Chardonnay Yakima Valley $36 88 points
The aromas offer notes of lees, candied red apple and spice. It’s enjoyable, but the lees flavors get pretty intense and somewhat overwhelm the wine at times.
Ashan 2017 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Gorge $40 92 points
Fruit for this wine comes from 1973 plantings. Barrel fermented and aged sur lie for nine months with weekly bâtonnage. Aromas of toast and wet stone are out front, needing some time to fully settle in. The palate is full feeling, creamy but still deft, bringing an impressive sense of acidity that carries the flavors on the extremely long finish. Give it some time to settle in. Best after 2022.
Ashan 2017 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $40 90 points
The aromas offer notes of clarified butter, lanolin, toast, flower and pear. Full-bodied, creamy-feeling peach flavors follow, capped off by a (quite) warm finish. It’s a lovely contrast to the winery’s Celilo Vineyard offering, showing the many facets of the variety.
Avennia 2017 Justine Yakima Valley $40 93 points
Grenache (61%) is in the lead on this wine, followed by Mourvèdre (23%) and Syrah. Alluring aromas of raspberry, blueberry, thistle, herb, smoked meat and black pepper are followed by lush, achingly pure red and blue fruit flavors, accented by a lovely sense of spicing. It’s deft but pure. Smoked meat and black pepper notes linger on the extremely long finish. The balance throughout is impressive—a complete stunner. Best from 2023 to 2030, with good life beyond that. Editor's Choice
Avennia 2017 Gravura Columbia Valley $40 93 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (47%) and Merlot (42%) make up the heart of this wine, with Cabernet Franc providing its soul. The aromas impress, with notes of bay leaf, thyme, graphite, dark coffee, raspberry and spice. The palate is classically styled and exquisitely balanced, bringing a sense of sophistication and detail, with plentiful cherry and herb accents. There’s lovely sense of complexity. Firm, slightly green tannins back it all up. Just a baby now, it wants some time in the bottle to grow up. Best from 2024 to 2032. Cellar Selection
Brian Carter 2018 Oriana White Wine Blend White Blend Columbia Valley $25 91 points
A unique blend of Viognier (49%), Roussanne (41%) and Riesling. The aromas are fruit-forward, with notes of ripe peach, flower and melon. The palate drinks off-dry, rounded in feel but still, light, with citrus, stone fruit and floral flavors. It has a pleasing yum factor.
Brian Carter 2013 One Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $85 90 pointsBarrel aromas are at the fore at present, with notes of vanilla, cocoa and wood spice, along with generous amounts of dried herbs, graphite and a light medicinal streak. The palate brings lighter feeling black tea flavors and cherry, painting a bit around the edges. It seems slightly more evolved than one might expect for its age.
Brian Carter 2015 Trentenaire Columbia Valley $50 90 points
This is always one of the more interesting wines in the state, a Petit Verdot (55%) dominant blend, rounded out with Cabernet Franc (19%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), Merlot (10%) and Malbec. I am not aware of another like it. Aromas of roasted coffee bean and green herb are out front, followed by notes of dark chocolate, spice, herb and cherry. Barrel flavors are forward at present, but there’s plenty behind them to pull it off. Petit Verdot’s unique acid and tannin structure carry it. It should have a long life in front of it
Brian Carter 2016 Corrida Spanish-style Red Blend Columbia Valley $34 89 points
This is a blend of 66% Tempranillo, 21% Graciano, 8% Garnacha and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon—something few producers in the state are exploring. The aromas bring a fair amount of reduction out of the gate. Behind that are notes of roasted coffee bean, cassis and licorice. Fresh tobacco, coffee and dark chocolate flavors follow. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s equal parts promise and delivery.
Brian Carter 2015 Tuttoroso Red Wine Blend Red Blend Yakima Valley $34 89 points
Sangiovese (68%) is at the heart of this wine, surrounded by Cabernet Sauvignon (17%) and Syrah. Aromas of dried tobacco, tar, raspberry, tire rubber, coffee and cherry are followed by creamy-feeling fruit flavors. The reduction on the aromas is a bit distracting.
Brian Carter 2015 Paul Thomas Bandol-style Columbia Valley $50 88 points
This wine is dedicated to one of winemaker Brian Carter’s friends and mentors. In this blend of Mourvèdre (61%), Grenache (25%), Cinsault (8%) and Syrah, sweet spice, dried herb, flower and licorice aromas make up an interesting mix. Full, lightly creamy flavors follow.
Brian Carter 2015 Solesce Columbia Valley $65 88 points
Coming from the warmest vintage this state has seen to date, this wine is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec. The aromas pop, with notes of tobacco, tire rubber, coffee and cherry, reduced out the gate. Lip-smacking, slightly dried out seeming flavors follow. It’s an odd mix and hard to tell where it’s going at present.
Carl's Pond 2013 Merlot Yakima Valley $16 89 points
With this 100% varietal, vanilla and baking spice aromas are in front of raspberry and cherry notes. The cranberry and cherry flavors are reserved in style, showing a pretty sense of balance. It’s an intriguing wine, made in a style more common in the state in the ’90s than in recent years.
Carl's Pond 2014 Rattlesnake Ruby Red Blend Rattlesnake Hills $16 88 points
This wine is 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 8% Syrah, aged 26 months in a mixture of French and American oak. The aromas provide intrigue, with notes of cinnamon, pipe tobacco, vanilla, sweet barrel spice and savory herb. The palate’s cherry flavors are reserved in style, bringing a sense of freshness, with plentiful herb accents. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best.
Carl's Pond 2014 Syrah Rattlesnake Hills $16 87 points
Aromas of vanilla, cocoa, mesquite, cola and cherry are followed by lighter-styled fruit and barrel flavors that trail toward the finish. A light medicinal note runs throughout.
Catman 2017 Sangiovese Columbia Valley (OR) $42 90 points
Pale in color, the wine has aromas offering light notes of red fruit and spice. Light, elegant, focused fruit flavors follow, bringing a vibrant sense of acidity, despite its high alcohol level. It doesn’t entirely stand up on its own but will do well on the dinner table. Pair it with roasted pork loin.
Catman 2017 Malbec Columbia Valley (OR) $32 89 points
The aromas jump out of the glass, with notes of bright raspberry, fresh red currant, orange rind, a sprinkling of savory herb and a whiff of mesquite. The palate is flavorful and juicy, chock-full of red fruit flavors, with blood orange notes on the finish. It displays a pleasing sense of elegance—an intriguing offering of this variety.
Catman 2017 Quatrèsbon Red Blend Columbia Valley (OR) $32 86 points
This wine is a unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Zinfandel. The aromas start out quite reduced, bringing strong notes of burnt tire rubber in front of red fruit. The palate is fuller in feel, with notes of fresh green herbs and red fruit.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Dry Riesling Columbia Valley $9 91 points
The aromas are perfumed, with appealing notes of flower, lime leaf, orange peel and white peach. Bone-dry, mouthwatering stone fruit flavors follow, showing spot-on balance and a lingering finish. It’s a complete delight. Best Buy
Cinder 2018 Dry Viognier Snake River Valley (ID) $23 89 points
Viognier is the variety that led winemaker Melanie Krause to move back to Idaho to make wine, and this wine shows the promise. The aromas draw you into the glass with notes of flower, herb, peach and pear. Medium-bodied, well-balanced flavors follow. It shows a lovely sense of acidity for the variety.
Cinder 2018 Dry Gewürztraminer Snake River Valley (ID) $30 88 points
Somewhat subdued aromas of flower are followed by pear and ginger notes. The palate is dry, crisp and medium bodied in feel, with tart acidity providing the frame. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery and should shine at the dinner table. Try it with roasted chicken basted in an herb butter with citrus and sage.
Cinder 2016 Reserve Tempranillo Snake River Valley (ID) $80 88 points
Aromas of cocoa, vanilla, fresh tobacco, graphite and black cherry are followed by rounded, palate-coating dark-fruit flavors with a tart finish. A firm coil of tannins connects it together.
Cinder 2017 Syrah Snake River Valley (ID) $30 87 points
Vanilla extract, sweet baking spice, dried tobacco and plum aromas are followed by tangerine, plum and dried tobacco flavors that thin out toward the finish. The wood seems to get in the way at times.
Cinder 2018 Dry Rosé Snake River Valley (ID) $23 85 points
Darker in color than many offerings coming from the Northwest, this wine shows reduction out of the gate, making the aromas of cherry and watermelon hard to tease out. Medium-bodied cherry flavors follow, tapering toward the finish.
Colter's Creek 2017 Estate Skookumchuck Syrah Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $25 91 points
Arresting aromas of fresh herbs, blueberry, smoked meat, tangerine, wet gravel and black pepper are followed by silky smooth, mesmerizing flavors, bringing an outrageous sense of texture. Orange peel notes linger on the finish. Delicious stuff.
Colter's Creek 2017 Estate Bottled Syrah Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $20 91 points
Vibrant aromas of blueberry pie, dried orange rind, cranberry and boysenberry lead to full-bodied, richly flavorful blue and purple fruit flavors. The sumptuous feel only adds to the appeal. It’s fruit-forward and unabashedly delicious.
Colter's Creek 2017 Rocinante Red Blend Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $36 90 points
A blend of Mourvèdre, Graciano and Malbec, this wine is pale in color, reminiscent of a Pinot Noir. The aromas show notes of fresh herbs, cherry, cranberry, white pepper and Satsuma orange. Light, peppery flavors follow, accented by bright acidity. It shows a lot of delicacy and should shine at the dinner table. Pair it with grilled lamb and chimichurri. Editor's Choice
Colter's Creek 2016 Arrow Rim G-S-M Idaho $20 88 points
Subdued aromas of raspberry compote, cranberry, barrel spice, dill and herbs lead to soft fruit and barrel flavors that generally play well off each other but at times tussle.
Colter's Creek 2017 Estate Cabernet Franc Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $28 88 points
Aromas of fresh and dried tobacco are at the fore along with green, savory herbs and green pepper. The palate is light but full in feel, chock-full of savory flavors. It’s a lovely but pretty green offering of the variety.
Devona 2017 Chardonnay Washington $44 92 points
Winemaker John Abbott (formerly of Abeja) has always been one of the state’s most skilled Chardonnay makers, and we see that here. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of clarified butter, spice and almond, showing a sense of subtlety. The peach and nectarine flavors are full in feel, coating the palate from end to end, brightened by lively acidity. It lingers on the finish. Superb stuff. Editor's Choice
Devona 2015 Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $70 91 points
Devona is a new project from winemaker John Abbott, previously at Abeja, where he showed his mastery of Cabernet Sauvignon. Coming from 1972 plantings at this vineyard, the aromas start out subtle, with notes of graphite, vanilla, raspberry cordial and spice. Well-balanced, creamy-feeling coffee and cherry flavors follow, showing a sense of sophistication, particularly for such a warm vintage.
Devona 2016 Merlot Columbia Valley $50 90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Bacchus Vineyard. Aromas of Red Vines candy, cherry cordial and spice are out front. Well-balanced red fruit flavors follow, leading to a warm finish. A firm sense of structure backs it up. There’s no mistaking the variety.
Drink Washington State 2017 Welcome to Washington State Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley $29 89 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of corn on the cob and wet stone along with whiffs of caramel and spice. The palate is medium-plus bodied, extending on the finish.
Drink Washington State 2016 Escape to Walla Walla Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $29 87 points
The aromas are unusual, with notes of dried stem, fresh tobacco, black currant, medicine cabinet and orange peel, not seeming entirely integrated. The palate brings a mixture of full-feeling green herb and tart red fruit flavors. It comes off as quite green.
Eternal 2016 Eternal Discovery Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $59 90 points
This vineyard is making a name for itself with Cabernet. Black licorice, dark raspberry, Satsuma orange and herb aromas are out front, followed by graphite and a sprinkling of spice. A mouthful of rich red and dark fruit flavors follow. Firm but fine-grained tannins provide support. It provides a lot of intrigue and delivery.
Eternal 2018 Eternal Sunshine Viognier Columbia Valley $34 89 points
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Gamache Vineyard. The aromas offer notes of Jolly Rancher, flower and honey-drizzled peach, showing the intensity of a dessert wine. The palate is rich in flavor, showing a ripe style, tapering toward the warm finish.
Eternal 2017 Eternal Restraint Syrah Walla Walla Valley $49 88 points
Fruit for this wine hails from Bogin Vineyard and comes in at an almost unheard of alcohol level for a current day red from the state. The aromas offer unusual notes of orange peel, evergreen, smoked meat, green herb and dark fruit. As the name would imply, the palate is reserved in style, with a strong sense of acidity. Orange peel notes persist on the finish. It doesn’t all completely work, seeming quite green, but it’s certainly interesting.
Fujishin 2018 Gewurztraminer Snake River Valley (ID) $NA 88 points
Sweet herb aromas are out front, trailed by notes of whole lime and a whiff of ale. Dry, broad-feeling citrus flavors follow. Spice flavors linger on the warm finish. It brings appeal.
Gorman 2018 Big Sissy Chardonnay Columbia Valley $35 91 points
For a producer typically known for its brawny wines, this one has that but also a lovely sense of subtlety, with notes of chalk, cardamom and plentiful barrel spice. The peach flavors bring nuance with their creamy, full feel. A warm, fruit-filled finish caps it off.
Gramercy 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $95 93 points
This wine is a blend of Cabernet from Bacchus Vineyard in the White Bluffs and Phinny Hill in the Horse Heaven Hills. Forward aromas of dark coffee bean, milk chocolate, dried and fresh herbs, barrel spice and dark cherry are followed by initially light, well-balanced fruit flavors that ramp up in depth and intensity over time. A tight coil of tannins holds it all together. This one will require some patience but has all the stuffing to go the distance and then some. Best after 2025 with a long life beyond that. Cellar Selection
Gramercy 2016 John Lewis Syrah Walla Walla Valley $85 93 points
As time has gone on, this wine has gotten more and more ambitious, drawing down its alcohol to the present 12.8%. With this barrel selection from Red Willow, Forgotten Hills and Les Collines vineyards, the aromas are reserved, with notes of black pepper, dried stem, herb, lavender and smoked meat. The palate is packed full of tart fruit flavors that stretch out on the finish. Quite firm tannins back it up. Most Washington wines you can pop and pour or wait a decade to enjoy. This is an exception, requiring significant time to see its best, but it is more than worth the wait. Drink after 2027, but it will have a long life beyond that, appearing near immortal. Cellar Selection
Greenwing 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 91 points
This is a new Cabernet Sauvignon project from the folks at Duckhorn, doubling down on Washington to go along with their Red Mountain focused Canvasback brand. The aromas mesmerize in notes of café au lait, black currant, plum, bay leaf and spice. The palate is deft in style, full of well-balanced, creamy-feeling flavors of coffee, spice and cherry, with lightly grainy tannins backing it up. It’s a lovely mix of fruit and barrel. Editor's Choice
Grosgrain 2018 Petit Grosgrain Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $24 93 points
Mourvèdre makes up 43% of this wine, with the rest Syrah (34%) and Grenache (23%). The aromas start out high register, with notes of herb, dried flower, peppery spice and blue fruit. The palate is simultaneously flavorful and deft, with tart acidity and a long, drawn out finish. This is extremely impressive stuff, with exquisite balance and an outrageous value to boot. Editor's Choice
Grosgrain 2018 XL Vineyard Mourvèdre Walla Walla Valley (OR) $36 91 points
This is the first example of Mourvèdre I am aware of from this vineyard, with it also being an extreme rarity in the valley. Brooding aromas of raspberry, green herbs, thistle and spice are followed by reserved fruit, cranberry-tart fruit and savory flavors. A long finish caps it off. It needs to be accompanied by food to be fully appreciated, but it’s terrific. Pair it with grilled lamb with a cherry compote. Editor's Choice
Grosgrain 2018 Los Rocosos Vineyard Grenache Walla Walla Valley (OR) $36 91 points
Pale in color, this young release wine was aged in neutral oak with 15% stems. The aromas offer notes of strawberry, raspberry and dried herb. The flavors are light, elegant, fresh, juicy and focused. Strawberry and smoked meat flavors linger on the finish. It’s a lovely, graceful wine, made it a style few (any?) producers in the state are exploring. It shows impressive staying power as well. Best with a slight chill. Editor's Choice
Hat Ranch 2018 Dry Estate Grown Moscato Snake River Valley (ID) $18 90 points
Vibrant aromas of melon, flower, tangerine peel and pear lead to dry drinking flavors. It’s a one-wine charm offensive.
Hat Ranch 2016 Hat Trick Red Blend Snake River Valley (ID) $27 88 points
Aromas of red cherry, vanilla and wood spice are followed by fruit and barrel flavors on the lighter side of medium-bodied wine. Coffee notes linger on the finish. The oak gets out front at times.
Helix by Reininger 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sangiovese Columbia Valley $27 88 points
Bright, fresh aromas of raspberry, sour cherry and orange peel are at the fore. The palate brings a pleasing sense of elegance, with the tannins adding some grit. Give it some additional time in the bottle to see if they soften.
Helix by Reininger 2016 Bacchus Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley $22 88 points
Bacchus is one of the state’s oldest vineyards, located in the White Bluffs region. The aromas bring notes of coffee and raspberry, with plentiful spice accents. The palate comes off as a bit green, dipping in the middle, with a lot of tannic structure. Coffee notes persist on the finish.
Involuntary Commitment 2018 Columbia Valley $20 92 points
This side project from the folks at Andrew Will is consistently one of the best values in the state. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with coffee, cherry and savory herb aromas out front. The palate brings a sense of balance, intensity, depth, purity and sophistication.
J. Bookwalter 2019 Couse Creek Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir Walla Walla Valley $26 92 points
This wine is made in a Beaujolais Nouveau style—100% whole cluster with cool carbonic maceration, aged two weeks on skins, and released the Thursday before Thanksgiving. However, it brings a whole lot more seriousness and staying power than many of the wines that inspired it. The aromas pop, with appealing notes of strawberry, dried herbs and stem. The palate is light, fresh and juicy, fleshing out over time. It’s a complete delight, and a dynamite example of this variety to boot. Editor's Choice
L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Ferguson Estate Vineyard Walla Walla Valley $65 92 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (28%) comprise the majority of this wine, with Cabernet Franc (7%) and Malbec rounding it out. Aromas of dried leaf, savory herb, dark chocolate, cassis and dried thyme draw you into the glass. The palate shows a sense of polish to the classically styled cranberry and cherry flavors. Lively acidity and brawny, slightly green tannins back it all up. Oak spices linger on the finish. It has the acidity and tannin stuffing to go the distance and then some. Best after 2025 with a long life beyond that. Cellar Selection
L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Merlot Columbia Valley $25 92 points
The baking spice, dark raspberry and anise aromas provide appeal. Broad-feeling, textured flavors follow, with cranberry-tart acidity and brawny, firm tannins backing it up. It’s an extremely impressive offering of this variety, showing its more serious side—Washington Merlot at its best. It will shine at the dinner table and will have a long life in front of it, seemingly near immortal. Editor's Choice
L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Estate Grown Merlot-Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $39 92 points
This wine is equal parts Ferguson and Seven Hills Vineyards and is similarly split between these two varieties. The aromas are locked up at present, with notes of graphite, cedar, barrel spice, coffee, dried herb, cherry, cranberry and anise coming out with coaxing. Plump, ripe fruit flavors follow, accented by vibrant acidity and enough tannic structure to go the distance. It flat out impresses. Best 2023–2033. Cellar Selection
L'Ecole No. 41 2018 Semillon Columbia Valley $15 91 points
Generous aromas of fig, kiwi and freshly spun cotton lead to a full, flavorful palate that brings a sense of texture and richness. It stretches out on the long, warm finish. Editor's Choice
L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Estate Grown Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $37 88 points
Coffee, green herbs, vanilla and blue fruit lead to full-bodied flavors, with the tannins giving a slightly tacky feel. The oak comes off prominently at present. Give it some time to (hopefully?) integrate. Best after 2022.
Laissez Faire 2018 Red Blend Snake River Valley (ID) $18 89 points
This young release red offers plum, orange peel, currant and spice aromas. A plump, flavorful, elegant palate follows. It’s a wine that makes you want to come back for more.
Mark Ryan 2018 Viognier Yakima Valley $40 93 points
The aromas bring plenty of appeal, with notes of honeysuckle, flower, whole pear, crushed rock and peach, bringing a sense of nuance. The palate is full but crisp in feel, showing a lovely sense of tension and depth, along with lively acidity. Structure, balance, depth, intensity, dexterity. Editor's Choice
Mark Ryan 2017 Crazy Mary Mourvèdre Red Mountain $60 93 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of dark coffee, pure blue fruit, dried herb and a kiss of spice. Full-feeling, palate-coating blue fruit flavors follow, lingering on the long, smoked meat and peppery finish. It commands attention, showing a lovely sense of texture and purity. Editor's Choice
Mark Ryan 2017 Little Sister Merlot Columbia Valley $75 93 points
Fruit from Quintessence Vineyard on Red Mountain makes up 86% of this wine, with the rest coming from the considerably cooler Red Willow in Yakima Valley. With this 100% varietal, the aromas start out brooding, with notes of Red Vines candy, dark raspberry, herb and dark chocolate. Bright, vibrant, palate-coating, textured red fruit and barrel flavors follow. It shows a lovely sense of depth and intensity but still freshness, with a lingering finish capping it off. Best after 2023. Cellar Selection
Mark Ryan 2016 Lost Soul Red Willow Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $50 92 points
The aromas jump out of the glass, with notes of coffee, blue fruit, dried herb, mineral and dark chocolate. Soft, textured, palate-coating fruit flavors follow that sail on the finish. A lovely sense of acidity ups the interest. This wine could only come from one place. It’s completely captivating. Editor's Choice
Mark Ryan 2017 The Dissident Columbia Valley $40 92 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up almost two-thirds of this wine and Merlot a quarter, with the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The aromas offer notes of dark and red raspberry, red currant, roasted coffee bean, dried herb and flower. Fruit and barrel flavors coat the palate, showing a sense of depth, with a creamy feel upping the interest. Editor's Choice
Mark Ryan 2017 Dead Horse Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $60 92 points
Quintessence, Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun and Obselisco fruit make up this wine. Aromas of vanilla, black coffee, dried herb, graphite, plum and dark cherry lead to a full, creamy-feeling, flavorful palate, intertwining fruit and barrel flavors. Coffee notes linger on the warm finish. A firm coil of slightly green tannins gives it support. Allow it some additional time in bottle. Best after 2023.
Mark Ryan 2017 Long Haul Merlot Columbia Valley $55 92 points
Though always Merlot dominant (and 84% in this vintage), this wine has not carried a varietal label in some time. A blend of Quintessence, Red Willow, Ciel du Cheval and Phinny Hill fruit, with brooding raspberry, coffee bean, cigar box, crème de cassis and herb notes out front. The palate mixes fruit and barrel, showing a lovely sense of deftness to the creamy-feeling flavors. Firm structure backs it all up, with café au lait notes lingering on the finish. It shows why this variety is so special in Washington. Editor's Choice
Mark Ryan 2018 Olsen Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley $40 90 points
There’s a lovely vibrancy to this wine’s pear, flower and peach aromas. Ripe, almost viscous-feeling flavors follow. Toast notes linger on the warm finish. It shows the variety’s richer, more unctuous side.
Mark Ryan 2017 Wild Eyed Syrah Red Mountain $50 89 points
There’s no mistaking the variety, with its aromas of pot roast sprinkled with dried herbs, blue fruit and flower showing a pleasing sense of complexity. The palate is full bodied but remains deft, with a textured feel and a firm sense to the tannins. A medicinal streak runs throughout, and it finishes quite warm.
Mercer 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $25 88 points
Green herb, smoke, cherry, spice and whole lemon aromas lead to slightly tacky-feeling cherry, black currant and orange peel flavors. It comes off as quite green.
Mercer 2016 Small Lot Merlot Horse Heaven Hills $32 88 points
Aged 24 months in 40% new American oak; the aromas offer notes of vanilla, dried cherry and sweet barrel spice. Vanilla, nougat and cherry flavors follow on the palate. The oak plays a leading role.
Mercer 2017 Bros Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $20 87 points
This wine explores the variety’s greener, more savory side, with notes of green pepper and garden herb, along with black currant and whiffs of smoke. The palate is sweet, with the tannins seeming a bit bunched up. Café au lait notes linger on the finish. It’s an easy drinker.
Mercer 2017 Reserve Heritage Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $25 87 points
Aromas of mesquite smoke and smoked ham are out front, along with fresh black currant and barrel spice, with the palate showing more of the same. A strong medicinal note lingers on the finish.
Ott & Hunter 2016 Saratoga Whidbey Island Landmark Series Columbia Valley $35 91 points
Syrah comprises half of this wine, with the rest Mourvèdre (30%) and Grenache. With the fruit coming from Boushey, Elephant Mountain and Sugarloaf vineyards, the aromas seem a bit bunched up out of the gate, expanding to show notes of blueberry, freshly ground black pepper and spice. A full but not overweighted feeling plate follows, with abundant black pepper accents. It has a lovely sense of grace. Give it some time open to see it at its best.
Ott & Hunter 2017 Double Bluff Whidbey Island Landmark Series Columbia Valley $23 90 points
Grenache, Mourvèdre, Counoise and Cinsault all make up equal parts of this wine. It’s light in color, reminiscent of a cool climate Pinot Noir. The aromas provide notes of strawberry and cherry gummy, along with pine and peppery spice. The palate is light and juicy, extending on the finish. It’s a pretty, elegant offering.
Ott & Hunter 2015 L’Entente Red Blend Columbia Valley $43 88 points
This is a unique blend of three-quarters Syrah, 20% Petite Sirah and 5% Malbec. The aromas intrigue, with notes of smoked meat, evergreen, parsley and purple fruit. The palate is light, with a strong medicinal streak. It’s all an odd mix.
Ott & Hunter 2016 Boushey Vineyard Malbec Yakima Valley $36 88 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of flower, orange oil, evergreen and asphalt. A medium-bodied palate follows, full of somewhat lighter orange peel flavors. Grapefruit notes linger on the finish. It’s interesting, but the fruit doesn’t seem to have fully ripened.
Ott & Hunter 2015 Sugarloaf Vineyard Grenache Rattlesnake Hills $27 88 points
Aged in neutral French oak for 32 months, aromas of cigar box, herb and ripe raspberry are followed by ripe, full-bodied cranberry and cherry flavors. It finishes warm. The aromas and flavors don’t seem to entirely sync up.
Ott & Hunter 2016 Wooly Heart of the Hill Vineyard Petite Sirah Red Mountain $45 88 points
In this 100% varietal, aromas of raspberry compote, evergreen and cherry cough drop are followed by fruit flavors on the lighter side of medium bodied. It comes up short on the finish.
Ott & Hunter 2016 Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $35 88 points
The aromas offer notes of overripe blueberry, blackberry and spice. Jammy, ripe but still lighter-styled flavors follow. This oft-expressive vineyard seems to get lost.
Ott & Hunter 2016 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Syrah Rattlesnake Hills $35 87 points
This wine was aged 32 months in a second-fill French oak barrel. The aromas bring notes of dark fruit, vanilla and abundant barrel spices. The palate mixes fruit and barrel, with the latter winning out.
Reininger 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $30 91 points
Pepper Bridge (64%) and Seven Hills (32%) vineyards make up most of this wine, with the rest coming from XL. It starts out quite reduced. Coffee and raspberry aromas are out front, followed by notes of graphite and spice. The palate is dominated by structure right now, very tightly wound up, but there are a lot of good things poking out. Coffee and chocolate notes linger on the finish. Give it until 2024. Cellar Selection
Reininger 2017 Mr. Owl’s Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $20 91 points
Cabernet Sauvignon comprises 56% of this wine, with the rest Merlot (19%), Syrah (19%) and Petit Verdot. The aromas are effusive, with notes of orange peel, fresh flower, cranberry and cherry. A full-feeling palate follows, with the cherry flavors brightened by tart acidity and supported by firm tannins. Coffee notes linger on the finish. The sense of structure is lovely. Best after 2024.
Reininger 2017 BDX Walla Walla Valley $30 88 points
The aromas are locked up out of the gate, with notes of wood spice, cranberry, cherry and mint. Fruit and barrel seem to tussle on the palate, with the tannins bringing a bit of astringency. Perhaps some additional time in the bottle will bring it together.
Reininger 2017 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $40 88 points
This wine is 100% varietal. The aromas bring notes of fresh black currant, asphalt, smoke and barrel spice. A plush feeling, dark fruit-filled palate follows, showing a bit of astringency. Smoke notes linger on the finish.
Sawtooth 2018 Dry Classic Fly Series Riesling Snake River Valley (ID) $18 87 points
The aromas offer notes of lemon iced tea, wilted flower and peach. Dry fruit flavors follow, trailing toward the lemony, lip-smacking finish.
Sawtooth 2017 Classic Fly Series Petit Verdot Snake River Valley (ID) $35 85 points
Unusual aromas of pink grapefruit and wood spice are followed by light, citrusy flavors. The fruit doesn’t seem to have fully ripened.
Seven Hills Winery 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $25 92 points
The aromas provide appeal, with notes of pure raspberry, red currant, baking spice and milk chocolate. The medium-bodied palate shows a sense of deftness to the fruit and barrel flavors. It’s a terrific example of the variety. Editor's Choice
Sin Banderas 2017 Yakima Valley $32 91 points
Syrah makes up two-thirds of this wine, with the rest Mourvèdre. The aromas intrigue, with notes of herb, orange oil, anise, dark chocolate and cherry. A full, lightly creamy-feeling palate follows. Cranberry notes linger on the finish. It has a long life in front of it.
Sin Banderas 2018 DuBrul Vineyard Riesling Yakima Valley $24 91 points
Lighter-styled aromas of lime, cut green apple, mineral and citrus are followed by sleek, bone-dry stone fruit flavors that bring puckering acidity. The vibrant acidity keeps the interest high. Pair it with halibut accompanied by a nectarine and peach salsa. Editor's Choice
Sin Banderas 2016 Yakima Valley $32 90 points
Syrah and Mourvèdre make up equal parts of this wine. The aromas offer notes of coffee, dark chocolate, herb, cranberry and ample barrel spicing. The palate is creamy in feel, with coffee, raspberry and cherry. Barrel spices linger on the finish. The oak plays prominently, but by and large it works. It has a long life in front of it.
Syncline 2018 Estate Grown Gamay Columbia Gorge $35 91 points
This is the first release of this variety off the winery’s estate vineyard and a rare offering from the state. The aromas provide vibrant notes of raspberry, Red Vines candy, peppery spice, red gummy and strawberry. The palate is light, tart and elegant, with the achingly pure fruit front and center. It’s flat-out delicious—required reading for anyone interested in one of the cutting edges of Washington wine. Editor's Choice
Syncline 2018 Subduction Columbia Valley $25 91 points
Syrah makes up half of this wine, with the rest Grenache (18%) and near equal parts Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault. The aromas are arresting, with notes of blue fruit, smoked meat, strawberry and dried herb, showing pleasing complexity. The palate starts out quite elegant in style, fleshing out with time, juicy, with bright, focused, pure fruit flavors. A long, fruit-filled finish caps it off. There’s a lot going on. Pair it with roasted pork loin. Editor's Choice
Syncline 2017 Scintillation Brut Grüner Veltliner Columbia Gorge $40 90 points
This is a single-vineyard (Underwood Mountain), single-vintage, single-varietal sparkler—a unicorn in the wine world. The aromas pop, with notes of pear, citrus, biscuit, melon rind and a whiff of smoke. The palate is dry with a zip of acidity and plentiful autolytic accents. Tasty stuff. Editor's Choice
The Guide 2018 Pinot Noir Oregon $15 90 points
Aromas of cinnamon, peppermint, spice, smoke, cherry and celery salt intrigue. The palate is light, elegant and well-balanced, fleshing out over time, with a light lick of tannins. Blood orange notes linger on the finish. It brings a lot of appeal. Best Buy
The Guide 2017 Discovery Red Blend Columbia Valley $14 88 points
Plum, herb, blood orange and smoke aromas are followed by light, soft, medium-bodied blue fruit flavors that go down easy. It’s a straightforward quaffer.
The Guide 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $15 87 points
The aromas show notes of garden herb, orange peel, mesquite and raspberry, with the palate showing more of the same, accented by a touch of sweetness. A citrus twist flavor lingers on the finish.
Vale 2018 Chardonnay Snake River Valley (ID) $21 86 points
Aromas of burnt toast, peach and pear are followed by corn on the cob and peach flavors. It’s an odd mix.
Vizcaya 2014 Tempranillo Snake River Valley (ID) $29 89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Windy Ridge Estate. The aromas bring notes of dried cherry, cedar, tobacco, vanilla and herb. The flavors are full in feel, backed by lively acidity. It brings a lot of intrigue.
Woodward Canyon 2017 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $99 92 points
As always, this wine is a blend of fruit from Champoux and Sagemoor vineyards, both first planted in the early 1970s. The aromas are reserved, with notes of blackberry, vanilla, spice and cigar box not yet ready to reveal themselves. Full, palate-coating, layered flavors follow, showing a lot of intensity. It packs a big punch, with a warm finish following. It’s all about opulence but keeps it in balance.
Woodward Canyon 2016 Estate Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $69 91 points
The fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s estate vineyard, established in 1976, with a microscopic 64 cases produced. The aromas provide immediate appeal, with notes of assorted fresh and dried herbs, cassis, vanilla, green pepper and black currant. The palate brings rich toffee, vanilla and cherry flavors that add a lightly grainy feel. The oak is primary at present, needing time to integrate.