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Warm, warmer, warmest: A look at the 2013-2015 vintages in Washington and what they mean for consumers

Three warm vintages result in very different wines

After a vintage in 2012 where heat accumulation was a near perfect match for 20-year historical averages in Washington, 2013 through 2015 saw three increasingly warm growing seasons. While it is tempting to characterize each of these years as simply producing ‘warm vintage wines,’ side-by-side tastings reveal significant differences.

“You have three hot years, and they are all different,” says Chris Peterson, winemaker and partner at Avennia. “I think sometimes we get this rap that all of the vintages in Washington are kind of similar. These three vintages are a great window into the fact that they’re not.”

Bob Betz, founder of Betz Family Winery and consulting winemaker for Col Solare, notes the differences across these vintages in Growing Degree Days (GDDs), a measure of heat accumulation during the growing season.

“In 2012, using rounded numbers, it was 2,900 degree days,” he says, referencing data for Red Mountain ­­- one of Washington’s warmest appellations. “In ’13 it was 3,150. In ’14 it was 3,470. In 2015, it was 3,900. If you look at other areas, the numbers may be somewhat different, but by and large they follow the same pattern.”

While heat accumulation is important, Mike Macmorran, winemaker at Mark Ryan Winery, notes that it is far from the only factor. “Something I think is sometimes overlooked is the timing,” he says. “When is it hot? How long is it hot for? Are we looking at six consecutive weeks or a month of triple digit heat? And what are our nighttime temperatures?”

In this regard, the 2013 through 2015 vintages show significant differences. “’13 was characterized by heat spikes all through July and August,” says Peterson. “It was brutal. Days of 109 to 112 (degrees) or something for days at a time.”

2014, meanwhile, was notable for a warmer finish than the preceding year. “’13 kind of flat-lined the first of October in terms of heat accumulation, whereas ‘14 ended with a more gradually flattening curve,” says Chris Figgins, president and CEO of Figgins Family Wine Estates, whose Washington wineries include Leonetti Cellar and FIGGINS.

2015, in contrast, had downright hot temperatures throughout the season. “There was just sustained heat June through October,” says Betz. “It was not just days over 100 degrees but also days in the 90s. It was probably the hottest vintage on record.”

Of course, the end product of a vintage isn’t just the result of temperature and vineyard management. Harvest decisions have a significant impact. For this reason, Betz says continuous monitoring in the vineyard was essential, especially in an extremely hot year like 2015.

“As we got into mid to late August, (at Betz Family) we were going to the vineyards three times a week, analyzing anything that was anywhere near harvest.”

“You had to nail your harvest dates in ’15,” says Figgins “If you got behind the curve, you got punished.”

The three vintages produced strikingly different wines. “I think the ‘13s are the most open-knit,” says Peterson. “I find that (they) actually drink like a cooler vintage in some senses. You get a little lower tannin. I think you get a little softer fruit. They are kind of delicate in some ways. I think they are super delicious wines.”

However, Peterson prefers the ‘14s. “’14 is kind of like ‘12 on steroids,” he says. “It was warmer but pretty even-keeled. At first, I thought, are these even superior to the ‘12s? And they may prove to be. They are so concentrated and have so much structure, whereas the ‘12s have more fruit and certainly the ‘15s have more fruit. I think (2014) is a classic, high quality, warm vintage. Across the board those are some of our favorite wines of ours.”

Betz agrees. “I love the ‘14s,” he says. “They are characterful and balanced wines. ‘12 was perfectly average, and the wines were balanced and expressive but not big. ’13 came along and they were a little bit bigger and not as balanced. To me, ’14 from the three vintages (from 2013 to 2015) had a wonderful combination of expression and balance.”

Meanwhile Figgins, whose fruit comes from Walla Walla Valley, prefers the 2015s. “In ’14, the wines came a little softer. That’s probably because at the end it stayed warm. We were able to ripen out some of that tannin. ‘13 things got cool and grapes just hung there and stopped developing. ‘15s, they are also fairly tannic wines, but in my mind, of the three vintages, the ‘15s have the best fruit and the best mid-palate density.”

Macmorran, however, is more circumspect about the 2015 vintage. “’15 to me, it’s a vintage that there’s some potentially unresolved qualities in those wines, and I’m not sure exactly where they are going to go. The vintage seemed to be a little more hit and miss.” He notes significant differences in vineyard sites and also says vine age affected the resulting wines.

“It seemed like in ‘15, the vines that were older handled the heat better and produced wines that had that additional layer of complexity and depth.”

How will these three vintages age in the cellar? There is some disagreement. “’15, longest lived,” says Betz, noting the plentiful tannins. “’14 most charm. There’s so much to like about the suppleness and expression of the ‘14s early on. ‘13 somewhere in between. I don’t think they’re necessarily going to live as long as the ’14s, but they’ll take a little more time to emerge than the ‘14s.”

Figgins sees it differently. “I think it would probably be ‘13, ‘15, ‘14 in terms of longevity because of the tannins in ’13,” he says. “The ‘13s also probably had the best acid of the three vintages because of that cooler October.”

Overall, the warm 2013 through 2015 vintages presented a steep learning curve for Washington growers and winemakers alike. However, with a succession of warm vintages, they were able to apply what they learned one year on the subsequent vintage.

“I think the viticulture was better after a series of years dealing with the heat,” says Peterson. “They were able to make better irrigation decisions and yield decisions.”

“I think we learned a whole bunch,” agrees Betz. His advice to winemakers in warm vintages?

“Don’t get greedy. Pick your grapes when they taste good and don’t try to pull so much more out. (You see) examples from ‘13, ‘14, ‘15 where people let the grapes go too long. (The wines) are clumsy. They are a bit over-extracted. They are pruney instead of plummy.”

While no doubt much has been learned in these three warm vintages, Macmorran believes the pace of education must be accelerated.

“I think there are so many times when we lose the opportunity to do something great, because we aren’t adapting to what the vintage is giving us,” he says. “The way climates are changing, we can’t do that. We can’t be happy with just okay as an industry. We can’t be complacent in the vineyard. We can’t be complacent in the cellar. We need to become better winemakers and viticulturalists.”

With each year bringing a new opportunity, no doubt they will all get plenty more chances.

Images by Richard Duval

Wine Enthusiast Reviews for November 2018

Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for November 2018. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read additional information on how I review wines here. All of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide. There is also a freely available Wine Enthusiast Tasting Guide app. See previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast's on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.

181 wines reviewed in the November issue of Wine Enthusiast.

Standouts from the November issue include a strong set of releases from Reynvaan Family Vineyards. The estate’s Foothills in the Sun Vineyard is a unique site, nestled in the foothills of the Blue Mountains. Few other vineyards are nearby, but that seems likely to change at some point given Reynvaan’s impressive results (Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2015 In the Hills Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $7593 pointsReynvaan Family Vineyards 2015 Reserve Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $7592 points).

One of the things that I appreciate about Brian Carter Cellars is that the wines often have a bit more age on release than the typical Washington wine. This is to everyone’s benefit. A great example is the Brian Carter 2013 Le Coursier Columbia Valley ($4091 points).

On the value side, check out the Les Trouvés 2016 Red Blend Washington ($2090 points).

I mentioned in the October set of reviews that 2017 was the strongest vintage for Washington whites since at least 2008. The November reviews have three terrific examples, the Lobo Hills 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley ($1891 points); Matthews 2017 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley ($3590 points); and Poet's Leap 2017 Riesling Columbia Valley ($2091 points). Of note, the Lobo Hills wine was in my Seattle Metropolitan top 30 most exciting Washington wines of 2018.

I also noted in the October reviews some of the challenges of the 2015 vintage for red wines as well as the challenges for entry-level wines from the 2016 vintage. We see a number of examples of both in this set of reviews.

Enjoy!

* * *

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2014 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Eagle Foothills $35 86 points
Aromas of baking spice, vanilla, green herb and dried cherry are followed by ripe, quite sweet seeming fruit and barrel flavors. The tannins bring a fair amount of grit and dryness. It doesn’t all come together.

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2014 Single Vineyard Merlot Eagle Foothills $40 87 points
High toned, unsettled aromas of dried Rainier cherry, spice and a medicinal note are followed by tightly wound fruit flavors that taper toward the finish.

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2014 Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc Eagle Foothills $40 87 points
The aromas seem a bit unsettled, with notes of vanilla, green herb, graphite, cocoa powder and cherry that don’t entirely mesh. The fruit flavors are sweet and focused, but the wood seems to get a bit in the way, particularly on the finish.

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2016 Rosé Eagle Foothills $18 86 points
Showing just a trace of copper color, this Sangiovese rosé displays aromas of Muscat gummy and tangerine peel. It drinks dry but the rich fruit flavors give the perception of sweetness.

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2016 Single Vineyard Chardonnay Eagle Foothills $19 84 points
Reduced out of the gate, it’s a bit of a challenge to get at the varietal aromas. The flavors of lees, pear and star fruit provide intrigue, tapering toward the finish, with the concentration overall seeming a bit light.

Amavi 2015 Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $33 88 points
Vanilla, cherry, spice and herb aromas are followed by plump black-fruit flavors, with the tannins bringing a bit of grit and dryness on the back end. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Ambassador Vineyard 2015 Estate Grown Limited Varietal Selection Petit Verdot Red Mountain $75 85 points
Cedar, wood spice, herb, coffee and licorice aromas are followed by coiled-up, slightly bitter-seeming tannins. It doesn’t all work.

Ambassador Vineyard 2015 Estate Grown Merlot Red Mountain $38 87 pointsAll varietal, barrel aromas are out front, with notes of vanilla and exotic spice. The red-fruit flavors are lighter styled and seem ever so slightly dried out. The variety is a bit hard to find.

Ambassador Vineyard 2015 Estate Grown Malbec Red Mountain $38 87 points
Aromas of dark roasted coffee beans, herb and spice are followed by somewhat lighter-styled cherry flavors with a slightly tacky feel. Cherry notes persist on the finish. The variety seems hard to find.

Ambassador Vineyard 2015 Estate Grown Envoy Red Blend Red Mountain $38 87 points
This is an interesting blend of 27% Merlot, 21% Petit Verdot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Malbec, 16% Cabernet Franc and 2% Syrah. Baking spice, vanilla, cherry, herb, anise and black-fruit aromas lead to slight tacky feeling dark-fruit flavors, with the tannins bringing a light squeeze. A bitter note lingers on the finish.

Ambassador Vineyard 2015 Estate Grown Plenipotentiary Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $50 87 points
The aromas offer notes of anise, cassis, baking spice and cherry, with the wood out front. The fruit flavors are ripe, with a slightly gritty feel to the tannins, which also bring some bitterness. Coffee notes linger on the finish.

Ambassador Vineyard 2015 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $38 87 points
Aromas of vanilla, baking spice, anise, cherry and whiffs of game are followed by ripe, slightly dried-out-seeming fruit flavors. There’s a light grip of tannins on the finish.

Armstrong Family 2014 Portteus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $36 86 points
Barrel aromas are at the fore, with notes of vanilla, green wood, dill, menthol and char, making it a challenge to get at the fruit. The fruit flavors are lighter styled, not bringing the heft to stand up to the oak.

Armstrong Family 2014 David’s Folly Yakima Valley $42 86 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (43%) and Cabernet Franc make up equal percentages of this wine, with the balance Petit Verdot. The aromas provide notes of vanilla, baking spice, fresh herb, cherry, pencil lead, dill and anise, with the oak far out front. The fruit flavors are lighter styled, not seeming fully able to stand up to the oak. Coffee notes linger on the finish.

B. Lovely 2017 Riesling Washington $13 85 points
The aromas are quite subdued for the variety, with notes of jasmine and peach struggling to get to the surface. It drinks medium sweet with a slight bitter note on the finish.

Brian Carter 2013 Le Coursier Columbia Valley $40 91 points
This wine is a blend of 54% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 6% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. The aromas present notes of black cherry, cedar, spice box and dried herb. The dark-fruit flavors offer a pretty sense of balance and elegance. It shows the benefits of some additional time in bottle.

Brian Carter 2014 Tuttorosso Red Blend Yakima Valley $34 87 points
Sangiovese (68%) makes up the majority of this wine, with the balance Cabernet Sauvignon (18%) and Syrah. Light in color, the aromas are elusive, with notes of tree bark, anise, Red Vines and cherry. The flavors are elegant and pretty, with raspberry flavors on the finish. It doesn’t stand up on its own but should fit in nicely at the dinner table.

Brian Carter 2014 Trentenaire Columbia Valley $50 87 points
This is a unique blend of 56% Petit Verdot, 24% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Malbec. The aromas are lighter styled, with notes of char, cherry and flower. The flavors are light and elegant, showing a pretty sense of styling, with bright acidity providing the frame. It doesn’t stand up on its own but has a place at the dinner table.

Brian Carter 2015 Takahashi Columbia Valley $38 87 points
This wine dedicated to long-time assistant winemaker Robert Takahashi. A blend of 58% Malbec, 34% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, char, baking-spice, black-tea, balsamic and blue-fruit aromas lead to elegant fruit flavors that dip in the middle.

Brian Carter 2014 One Stone Tree Vineyard Syrah Wahluke Slope $75 87 points
Coming from a blazing hot vineyard and vintage, raspberry, cranberry and barrel-spice aromas are followed by a cranberry-filled palate. The variety seems hard to place and the oak prominent.

Brian Carter 2014 ONE Dineen Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rattlesnake Hills $85 86 points
Char and toast aromas are at the fore, followed by berry and spice. The fruit flavors are light and elegant. There are good things going on but the aromas and palate don’t seem to line up and the barrel influence is a bit intense.

Bumble & Boom 2016 Riesling Columbia Valley $15 83 points
Aromas of fruit cocktail, herb and plastic are followed by medium-sweet fruit flavors. The concentration seems quite light.

Cadaretta 2015 Syrah Columbia Valley $35 86 points
Light aromas of cherry, blueberry and wood spice are followed by lighter-styled fruit flavors. It falls a bit flat on the finish, not coming together. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Cadaretta 2015 Windthrow Columbia Valley $50 87 points
A blend of 84% Syrah, 10% Grenache and 6% Mourvèdre, light aromas of boysenberry and spice are followed by lighter-styled fruit flavors. It doesn’t all seem to work. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Cadaretta 2015 Southwind Syrah Walla Walla Valley $60 87 points
Coming from an up-and-coming area of the valley, aromas of peeled orange, wild flower, fresh herb, barrel spice and mountain blueberry are followed by somewhat lighter-styled fruit flavors, with a firm squeeze of slightly bitter tannins. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Cadaretta 2015 Southwind Malbec Walla Walla Valley $65 87 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s recently planted estate vineyard in the SeVein project. Aromas of cherry and spice lead to a highly structured palate, with slightly gritty tannins. The middle seems a bit missing. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Callan 2016 MC2 Columbia Valley $38 88 points
This wine is half Malbec and half Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas of plum, herb and tar provide appeal, expressing these two varieties well. The palate is medium bodied with abundant blue-fruit flavors on the finish.

Callan 2016 Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $32 87 points
Aromas of garden herb, orange peel and cherry give way to ripe, slightly sweet-seeming orange-peel and cherry flavors. There’s no question of the variety or appellation.

Callan NV Méthode Champenoise Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $47 88 points
Fresh fruity aromas of brioche, raspberry, rose hips, citrus and spice are followed by bright tart fruit flavors, with plentiful lees accents. Apple notes linger on the finish.

Cana's Feast 2015 Bricco Red Blend Columbia Valley $18 87 points
Sangiovese makes up half of this wine, with the balance Malbec, Barbera, Syrah and Primitivo. Aromas of dried cherry, licorice and dried currant lead to tart cherry flavors with a zing of acidity. The fruit seems a bit dried out but it’s an otherwise interesting wine that should fit in well at the dinner table.

Charles Smith 2016 Boom Boom! Syrah Washington $18 85 points
Starting out a bit reduced, the aromas open to reveal notes of berry, herb and orange peel. The fruit flavors are straight down the fairway, if seeming a bit innocuous, with the concentration light with a candied finish.

Charles Smith 2016 Velvet Devil Merlot Washington $13 83 points
Strong aromas of green pepper, herb and currant lead to quite lightly styled fruit flavors. It all seems quite underripe.

Cinder 2016 Dry Viognier Snake River Valley (ID) $18 89 points
Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this wine is a blend of fruit from Sawtooth, Martin and Williamson vineyards. Bright aromas of tangerine, mouthwatering ripe peach and honeysuckle lead to plentiful stone fruit flavors that glide on the apricot-filled finish.

Col Solare 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $85 89 points
Being 100% varietal, blue-fruit aromas are at the fore, with notes of blueberry and huckleberry in front of spice—very unusual for Cabernet. The flavors are plump in style with firm tannins that don’t quite seem to have fully ripened.

Columbia Crest 2015 Grand Estates Red Blend Columbia Valley $87 87 points
Merlot makes up over half of this wine, with the balance Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and other varieties. The aromas are brooding, with high-toned notes of herb, cherry, vanilla, chocolate and spice. The flavors show a mix of fruit and barrel, with the tannins seeming a bit dry. Coffee and vanilla notes persist on the finish.

Columbia Crest 2014 Walter Clore Private Reserve Bordeaux-style Red Blend Columbia Valley $35 87 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (46%) and Merlot (36%) make up most of this wine, which is finished off with Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The aromas bring notes of herb, cherry and vanilla. The cherry flavors bring a slightly gritty feel. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Columbia Crest 2016 Grand Estates Syrah Columbia Valley $12 85 points
The aromas come out of the gate seeming a bit reduced, opening to reveal notes of berry and tar. The coffee and berry flavors seem extremely light, trailing on the finish.

Columbia Crest 2016 Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $12 86 points
Coffee, herb and cherry aromas are at the fore, with an ever so slightly burnt note in the background. The palate is light but flavorful, showing a sense of elegance. The concentration seems to be missing in the middle.

Columbia Winery 2016 Red Blend Columbia Valley $14 86 points
Merlot and Syrah make up the majority of this blend. Aromas of raspberry, plum, blueberry, herb and whiffs of tire rubber are followed by straight down the fairway, quite lightly styled fruit flavors. It’s enjoyable but comes off as quite light.

Desert Wind 2016 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $18 85 points
Vanilla bean, pencil eraser and licorice aromas lead to light but creamy-feeling vanilla-extract flavors. The oak influence seems primary, without the fruit to stand up to it.

Desert Wind 2016 Estate Grown Ruah Proprietary Red Blend Wahluke Slope $20 85 points
Plum, vanilla bean and spice aromas lead to lighter-styled fruit and vanilla flavors. There’s enjoyment to be had, but the concentration seems quite light.

Desert Wind 2016 Estate Grown Merlot Wahluke Slope $18 86 points
Cherry and spice aromas lead to graceful fruit flavors, with plentiful vanilla accents. Herb notes linger on the finish. The concentration seems light and the vanilla notes a bit heavy.

Desert Wind 2017 Estate Grown Chardonnay Wahluke Slope $15 82 points
Quite light aromas lead to washed-out-seeming fruit flavors. The variety and vintage are hard to place.

Drink Washington State 2016 Dip Into Lake Chelan Pinot Noir Lake Chelan $29 86 points
Extremely pale in color with an orange rim, the aromas are presently hard to get at, with light notes of strawberryies, cherries and twigs emerging over time. The cherry flavors are light but juicy with raspberry notes on the finish. There are some good things happening, but it all seems a bit faint.

Duck Pond 2017 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $12 82 points
The aromas bring a slightly tinny note that distracts. The palate seems to fall flat, without the concentration or structure to hold it together.

Dunham 2016 Shirley Mays Chardonnay Columbia Valley $25 85 points
Aromas of custard, funk and corn-on-the-cob lead to lightly creamy-feeling fruit flavors. The concentration waxes and wanes throughout, at times coming off as quite light.

Dunham 2015 Trutina Columbia Valley $29 85 points
This wine is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 10% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Aromas of blueberry, herb, vanilla and toasty spices lead to very lightly styled cherry and vanilla flavors. The flavors seem a bit washed out, with the oak way out front.

Dunham 2015 Syrah Columbia Valley $35 86 points
Aromas of char, coffee bean, vanilla and berry are followed by light but creamy feeling flavors that dip in the middle, showing a mixture of fruit and barrel. It doesn’t all come off.

Dunham 2015 XXI Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $45 88 points
Aromas of vanilla extract, wood spice, plum and cherry are followed by restrained fruit and barrel flavors. The oak seems a bit intense for the fruit that is in the glass.

Dunham 2016 Three Legged Red Blend Washington $19 87 points
Strong notes of vanilla extract, coconut, cherry and berry are followed by ripe, plump but still lighter-styled cherry and raspberry flavors. The oak plays a prominent part in the show but there’s still enjoyment to be had.

Elsom 2011 Red Blend Columbia Valley $32 84 points
This wine is near equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, finished off with a dash of Syrah. The aromas show some volatility, along with notes of vanilla and dried cherry. The cherry and green-pepper flavors are lighter styled, with tart cranberry-like acidity. Green-pepper notes linger on the finish.

Elsom 2011 Logan Red Blend Columbia Valley $42 83 points
A blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Syrah, strong scents of vanilla, coconut shavings, green pepper, white pepper and dried cherry are followed by quite light fruit flavors that trail on the finish. There’s not enough fruit to stand up to the oak.

Elsom 2011 Isabella Red Blend Columbia Valley $42 85 points
Coming from the exceptionally cool 2011 vintage, this wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec and Merlot. The aromas are high toned, with notes of cherry and licorice. The palate is lighter in style, with the concentration not seeming all there. Drink now.

Eternal 2017 Insight Marsanne Columbia Valley $29 87 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Boushey Vineyard. Aromas of dried apple and spice are followed by creamy-feeling fruit flavors. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery.

Eternal 2017 Perspective Grenache Blanc Columbia Valley $29 87 points
Painted Hills Vineyard provides the fruit for this wine. The aromas are light, with notes of candle wax, lemon balm, peach and flower. The palate is sleek in style, with the flavors trailing on the back half.

Eternal 2017 Beauty Rosé Columbia Valley $21 86 points
This is all Grenache coming from French Creek Vineyard. Extremely pale in color, looking almost more like a white wine than a rosé, the aromas suggest notes of lees, raspberry and spice, with palate bringing more of the same. It doesn’t all seem to come together.

Eternal 2015 Privelege Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $59 88 points
A mere one barrel was produced of this wine. Dried herb aromas and flavors are at the fore, followed by green pepper, baking spice, dill and cherry. Lighter styled, it shows a pretty sense of nuance, with fruit and barrel playing off each other. Coffee and vanilla notes linger on the finish.

Eufloria NV Aromatic White Blend Washington $6 87 points
A canned wine offering, this is a blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Muscat and Pinot Gris. Aromas of lychee, muscat, orange peel and honeysuckle lead to very spritzy off-dry stone-fruit flavors. The spritz seems distracting but once it flattens out the wine behind it is quite nice. Stuff it in the backpack for the summit. Best Buy

Eufloria NV Aromatic Rosé Washington $6 86 points
This wine comes in a can. Up-front aromas of lychee, flower and peach are followed by spritzy fruit flavors. It provides easy-drinking appeal. The spritziness seems distracting, but once it flattens out, it’s very enjoyable. Best Buy

Full Pull & Friends 2011 CVBDX Columbia Valley $34 89 points
This wine is a full seven years old, coming from the exceptionally cool 2011 vintage. Appealing aromas of berry, black currant, cassis and herb lead to well-balanced fruit flavors. It shows a lovely sense of poise, showing the benefits that this challenging vintage can offer.

Full Pull & Friends NV Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $23 88 points
Examples of this style are rare in the state. Aromas of baked bread and citrus lead to light sharp-edged fruit flavors. It delivers a pleasing elegance. Light smoky notes persist on the finish.

Gruet NV Brut Rosé Méthode Champenoise Sparkling Blend America $17 87 points
This wine is made exclusively from Pinot Noir. A pretty pale salmon color, the aromas bring notes of baked bread and strawberry, with quite tart fruit flavors backed by lively acidity.

Hightower 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $40 87 points
The aromas are brooding, opening with notes of barrel spice, green tea, green pepper, graphite and herb. There’s a pretty sense of elegance to the light fruit flavors that taper toward the herb-filled finish.

Hightower 2015 Reserve Red Mountain $55 87 points
This wine is almost all Cabernet Sauvignon, topped off with Malbec (14%). The aromas bring notes of fresh and dried herb, wet stick, dried cherry and a medicinal note. The palate is light, pretty and reserved in style. There’s interest to be had but it seems a bit dried out. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

JM Cellars 2016 Champoux Vineyard Merlot Horse Heaven Hills $55 87 points
Green herb, cherry, soil, coffee, cedar and flower aromas lead to sweet, somewhat lighter-styled green-tea and cherry flavors that paint around the edges. There are good things going on, but it comes off as quite green for the variety.

JM Cellars 2015 Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $50 90 points
This wine comes from one of the state’s premier Syrah vineyards. Inviting aromas of bacon fat, mineral, herb, flower and dark fruit are followed by ripe full-bodied fruit flavors. The style is quite rich but brings enjoyment.

JM Cellars 2015 Tre Faniciulli Red Blend Red Mountain $49 87 points
Half Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance Merlot (33%) and Syrah (17%), toast, raspberry, coffee and herb aromas are followed by lightly styled fruit flavors that seem to paint around the edges, missing in the middle. Coffee notes linger on the finish. The concentration seems light, especially for the vintage and appellation, but what’s there is interesting.

Kiona 2016 Estate Grown Lemberger Red Mountain $15 86 points
The aromas are perfumed, with traces of orange zest and flower, along with notes of blueberry. The blueberry and flower flavors are lighter styled, shortening on the finish. It’s an unusual offering of the variety.

Kiona 2016 Estate Grown Merlot Red Mountain $25 86 points
Lighter-styled aromas of red fruit are followed by elegant cherry flavors. The concentration seems quite light.

Kiona 2017 Estate Grown Ice Wine Chenin Blanc Red Mountain $50 91 points
The aromas are generous, with notes of dried pineapple, mango and apricot. The stone-fruit and tropical-fruit flavors are rich, sweet and focused, showing a lovely sense of balance that carries through the finish. Bright acidity provides the frame.

Kirkland Signature 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $9 84 points
There’s no question of the variety, with its notes of dried and fresh herb along with green pepper. The cherry flavors are light, with the tannins bringing a lightly gritty feel.

Kontos 2015 Seven Hills Vineyard Malbec Walla Walla Valley $53 85 points
Maraschino cherry, anise and vanilla aromas lead to lightly sweet-seeming fruit flavors. It doesn’t all work.

Kontos 2015 Malbec Walla Walla Valley $45 86 points
Herb, coffee, green tea and wood spice aromas lead to light coffee and chocolate flavors. The wood seems to get in the way of the plum flavors.

Kontos 2014 Progeny Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $63 87 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up half of this wine, with the rest 25% Merlot, 17% Malbec and 8% Syrah. Barrel aromas are at the fore, with notes of coconut shavings and freshly hew wood. Dark-fruit flavors fill the palate with the tannins giving a slight squeeze. Coconut flavors persist on the finish. The oak seems dominant.

Kontos 2015 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $41 86 points
Lightly volatile seeming aromas of raspberry cobbler, barrel spice, vanilla and cherry lead to sweet full-bodied raspberry and cherry flavors. It doesn’t all work.

Kontos 2014 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $39 86 points
Light aromas of soil, dried herb, dried cranberry, licorice, barrel and cherry are followed by anise and cranberry-filled flavors that trail on the finish. It doesn’t all seem to come together, with the structure seeming lacking.

Kontos 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $41 87 points
Anise, cherry candy, vanilla and spice aromas are followed by straightforward fruit flavors backed by soft tannins. It’s an easy-drinking offering of the variety, wanting a bit more structure to pull it all together.

Kontos 2014 Alatus Walla Walla Valley $41 87 points
A blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 17% Malbec, high-toned aromas of maraschino cherry, vanilla, baking spice, medicine and black cherry lead to rich, extracted dark-fruit and vanilla flavors. The tannins show a bit of grittiness. A warm finish follows.

Kontos 2017 Gossamer White Blend Columbia Valley $29 90 points
A unique blend of Chardonnay (62%), Roussanne (34%) and Orange Muscat, the aromas provide light notes of cream, apple, tangerine and spice. There’s a pleasing sense of texture and freshness on the palate, followed by a clean orange-blossom-filled finish. It shows a pleasing sense of balance.

Lagana 2017 Eritage Vineyard Chardonnay Walla Walla Valley $25 88 points
This is the first wine to be released off this recently planted vineyard. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, aromas of red and yellow apple, kiwi and pineapple are followed by fresh tangy stone and tropical-fruit flavors. It shows promise.

Lagana 2017 Breezy Slope Vineyard Pinot Noir Rosé Walla Walla Valley $20 85 points
A pale-salmon color with an orange tinge, aromas of strawberry, herb and flower lead to a broad palate with plentiful apple flavors. It doesn’t all work.

Lagana 2015 Nox Perpetua Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $35 87 points
Lighter in color, pleasing aromas of garden herbs, fresh tobacco and tire rubber are followed by plump fruit flavors that dip in the middle. It wants a bit more structure to pull it all together but intrigues all the same.

Lagana 2015 Nox Perpetua Patina Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $30 85 points
The aromas provide notes of wet penny, black pepper, damp sagebrush, anise and cherry. The sweet cherry and raspberry flavors seem to have a slight metallic tinge. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Lagana 2014 Sagemoor Vineyards Riesling Columbia Valley $16 85 points
There’s a strong metallic and new tire rubber tinge to the aromas, along with whiffs of diesel. The palate falls flat, with abundant canned peach and Nestea Iced Tea flavors. It seems past peak.

Les Trouvés 2016 White Blend Washington $20 88 points
A blend of 44% Viognier, 37% Marsanne and 19% Roussanne, aromas of wet stone, apple and peach are followed by lighter-styled stone fruit-flavors that finish warm.

Les Trouvés 2016 Red Blend Washington $20 90 points
Grenache (56%) is out front on this blend, which also contains 29% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre. Somewhat light in color, the aromas pop with notes of orange peel, black pepper and huckleberry. There’s a lovely sense of elegance on the palate, which is seamless straight through the warm finish. Editor's Choice

Lobo Hills 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25 88 points
The aromas are locked up initially, with notes of cedar, herb, cherry and anise. The palate is similarly wound up, with a tight core of tannins that still need some time to settle in.

Lobo Hills 2015 StoneTree Vineyard Petit Verdot Wahluke Slope $30 88 points
Herb, dark soil and cherry-candy aromas lead to well-balanced fruit flavors with a lick of tannins. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best.

Lobo Hills 2013 Right Bank Blend Lonesome Springs Ranch Bordeaux-style Red Blend Yakima Valley $30 87 points
Merlot makes up 64% of this wine, with the balance Cabernet Franc. Lightly colored with a slight orange tinge, the aromas pop, with notes of raspberry jam, herb and spice. The flavors are quite elegantly styled, not able to deliver on the aromas’ promise.

Lobo Hills 2015 Lonesome Springs Ranch Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $30 88 points
Aromas of baking spice, vanilla, herb and high-toned cherry cola are followed by lighter-styled fruit and herb flavors. It provides intrigue.

Lobo Hills 2013 Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40 88 points
Grapes from Stonetree Vineyard Syrah makes up the bulk (80%) of this wine, with the balance Red Mountain Cab. Herb, coffee, vanilla and barrel-spice aromas are followed by fruit and barrel flavors that are reserved in style and persist on the coffee-filled finish.

Lobo Hills 2017 Dry Riesling Yakima Valley $16 88 points
The aromas are redolent with notes of honeysuckle, ripe peach and floral soap. Rare for the state, it drinks bone dry, with a light sleek feel. Pair it with food to see it shine.

Lobo Hills 2014 StoneTree Vineyard Barbera Wahluke Slope $30 88 points
Examples of this variety are rare in this state, with this one coming from a hot site and vintage. Blackberry seed, anise, herb stem and dark-plum aromas are followed by rich ripe cherry flavors that persist on the finish. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery.

Lobo Hills 2017 Inland Desert Auxerrois Yakima Valley $22 90 points
This is the only example of this variety I am aware of in the state. Aromas of apple, melon and lees lead to full-bodied creamy-feeling fruit flavors that linger on the finish. Though seeming a bit stylistically different from the previous vintage, it’s delicious all the same.

Lobo Hills 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley $18 91 points
This wine comes from Lonesome Springs Ranch Vineyard and was fermented and aged in stainless steel, with rocks from the vineyard included in the tanks. After starting out just a touch reduced, it opens to reveal aromas of kiwi, white grapefruit, mineral and herb. The palate is sleek in style with electric acidity. It’s a racy acid white at a terrific price. Pair it with ceviche. Editor's Choice

Maloney 2015 Single Vineyard Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $45 88 points
This wine is a bit green out of the gate, with notes of garden herb and green pepper in front of dark fruit. The fruit flavors are full bore, with a tight core of slightly dry tannins wrapped around them.

Maryhill 2015 Zinfandel Columbia Valley $24 88 points
Vibrant aromas of raspberry jam, fruit leather and spice are followed by plush fruit flavors. It’s a very enjoyable, spot-on example of the variety.

Maryhill 2015 Proprietor’s Reserve Zinfandel Columbia Valley $44 86 points
Aromas of vanilla, char, coffee and dried herb are followed by soft red-fruit flavors, with plentiful barrel accents. The variety seems a bit hard to find, especially compared to their entry-level offering from the same vintage.

Maryhill 2015 Proprietor’s Reserve Barbera Columbia Valley $32 86 points
Cherry candy, raspberry and herb aromas are followed by plump ripe sweet flavors with a warm tangy finish. It comes off as quite ripe.

Maryhill 2015 Proprietor’s Reserve Tudor Hills Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley $36 85 points
Aromas of Jolly Rancher and licorice are followed by lighter-styled flavors that show a lot of wood influence. Green notes linger on the finish.

Maryhill 2015 Proprietor’s Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley $34 85 points
The aromas are quite reticent and hard to get at. The palate brings plentiful red-fruit flavors and grippy tannins, with a tire rubber note that distracts.

Maryhill 2015 Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese Columbia Valley $36 85 points
Quite light in color, aromas of caramel and red fruit are followed by light fruit flavors. The concentration doesn’t seem all there, with the variety hard to find.

Maryhill 2016 Winemaker’s White Blend Columbia Valley $14 84 points
The aromas of dried orange peel and lime provide interest but seem a bit evolved. The concentration of the dry Nestea Iced Tea and lemon flavors seems extremely light.

Maryhill 2015 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $20 85 points
Aromas of green coffee bean, garden herb and flower are followed by elegantly styled fruit flavors. Coffee notes linger on the finish. The concentration seems quite light.

Maryhill 2015 Malbec Columbia Valley $24 86 points
Raspberry jam and dried cranberry aromas are at the fore, with peppery accents in the background. The flavors are plump and ripe, but don’t have the structure to hold them together.

Maryhill 2015 Merlot Columbia Valley $20 86 points
The aromas pop, with notes of raspberry jam, cherry and spice. The cocoa and jammy red-fruit flavors are light and appealing, tapering toward the finish. It’s a straight down the fairway offering of the variety.

Maryhill 2015 Sangiovese Columbia Valley $26 86 points
Raspberry jam, rose hip and spice aromas are followed by light juicy fruit flavors that finish warm. It doesn’t all come together but it still provides enjoyment.

Matthews 2017 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $35 90 points
Hailing from Boushey Vineyard, this wine was aged in a combination of large format oak and concrete. Aromas of gooseberry, kiwi, pink grapefruit, lemon rind, tropical fruit and herb lead to creamy-feeling fruit flavors supported by well-balanced acidity. A lingering finish caps it off. It’s a richer styled interpretation of the variety.

Matthews 2017 Rosé Columbia Valley $27 87 points
This is 100% Cabernet Franc, and all of the fruit for this wine comes from the Royal Slope. A very pretty pale-peach color, aromas of spice, watermelon and strawberry lead to a thick-feeling palate. It gets bogged down.

Matthews 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $27 88 points
Blended with 13% Sémillon, the aromas are quite light, with notes of herb and citrus. The palate is medium bodied with a lingering finish. It’s pleasant but comes off as quite lightly flavored.

Matthews 2016 Cuvée Red Blend Columbia Valley $30 86 points
This wine is about two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Malbec. Aromas of blueberry, herb, plum, green pepper and spice lead to soft lighter-styled fruit flavors with slightly grainy tannins. The concentration seems quite light.

Matthews 2015 Reserve Claret Columbia Valley $60 87 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (68%) takes the lead, followed by 18% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. Aromas of blueberry, graphite, herb, miso paste and spice are followed by plentiful coffee flavors that linger on the finish. Lightly grainy tannins back it all up.

Matthews 2015 Merlot Columbia Valley $55 87 points
Toast, coffee, berry and herb aromas are followed by lighter-styled fruit flavors. It all seems a bit dialed back.

Matthews 2016 Blackboard Red Blend Columbia Valley $27 85 points
This wine is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 7% Syrah, 6% Merlot and 2% Malbec. Blue-fruit aromas are at the fore along with notes of green pepper and green herb. The concentration is quite light, not able to deliver.

Milbrandt 2016 Brother’s Blend Red Blend Columbia Valley $17 87 points
This blend of Bordeaux and Rhône varieties brings blueberry-pie and huckleberry aromas. The somewhat lighter-styled blue-fruit flavors provide plenty of easy-drinking appeal, with the oak seeming pleasantly dialed back.

Milbrandt 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $17 87 points
Dark roasted coffee, mortared herb and cassis aromas are followed by lightly sweet, ripe black-currant flavors. It provides easy-drinking appeal.

Milbrandt 2016 The Estate Evergreen Vineyard Chardonnay Ancient Lakes $22 87 points
A pale-golden color, the aromas suggest notes of cream and spice. The flavors are full bodied, showing a sense of nuance, followed by a warm, slightly bitter finish.

Milbrandt 2016 Merlot Columbia Valley $17 86 points
Aromas of braised green pepper, blueberry, coffee and herb are followed by lightly sweet, medium-bodied fruit flavors. It provides a lot of easy-drinking appeal, though the variety seems a bit hard to find.

Milbrandt 2017 Rosé Columbia Valley $13 87 points
A blend of 75% Syrah and 25% Tempranillo, this wine is pale electric pink in color with orange accents. Light aromas of apple, watermelon and herb are followed by off-dry broad-feeling fruit flavors that provide appeal.

Milbrandt 2016 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $13 87 points
Barrel aromas are out front, with notes of toast in front of butter and corn-on-the-cob. The palate is full bodied with a lightly creamy feel to the stone-fruit flavors.

Milbrandt 2016 Evergreen Vineyard Riesling Ancient Lakes $13 87 points
Green-apple, lime and lime-leaf aromas are followed by lightly spritzy feeling, lighter-styled white-peach flavors that drink off dry but with enough acidity to off-set it. It delivers a lot of appeal.

Milbrandt 2016 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley $13 86 points
The aromas of apple and pear seem difficult to access at present. Dry medium-bodied flavors follow. It’s a pleasant if somewhat innocuous offering of the variety, with the concentration at times seeming a bit light.

Milbrandt 2017 Sweet Katherine Evergreen Vineyard Riesling Ancient Lakes $13 86 points
Lighter styled aromas of peach, apricot and whiffs of lime are followed by sweet, rich stone-fruit flavors. It leans a bit too much on the sugar for its appeal but it still delivers plenty of it.

Murray 2015 Syrah Red Mountain $25 85 points
The aromas pop, with notes of blueberry, orange peel, flower, smoked meat and Dimetapp cough syrup. The palate is light but chock-full of mesquite flavors. Blueberry-pie notes linger on the finish. It doesn’t all work.

North by Northwest 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $55 87 points
Dark coffee, mocha, vanilla, cherry and herb aromas are followed by plump-feeling fruit flavors. One wants a bit more structure to hang all that fruit on but what’s there is pleasant.

Original House Wine 2016 Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon America $12 86 points
The aromas are downright fruity, with notes of black plum and black currant along with herb and green pepper. The palate brings sweet, simple fruit flavors, with the oak influence not apparent. It’s a straightforward quaffer.

Original House Wine 2016 Dark Cabernet Sauvignon America $12 86 points
Fruit forward black currant, plum and green pepper aromas are followed by plump, pleasant, lightly sweet fruit flavors. There’s not much complexity, but if you want to know what Cabernet looks like unadulterated by oak, this wine is it.

Original House Wine NV Riesling America $26 84 points
Coming in a box wine format, this wine brings light aromas of jasmine, orange zest and flowers. It drinks closer to dry than one might imagine. Still, the flavors fall a bit flat.

Original House Wine NV Chardonnay America $26 83 pointsThis is a straightforward, quaffable offering of this variety in a box wine format. There’s little complexity but the price is right.

Poet's Leap 2017 Riesling Columbia Valley $20 91 points
Generous aromas of lime leaf, citrus, wet slate and white peach lead to off-dry stone-fruit and citrus flavors that stretch out on the palate. It brings a beautiful sense of acid balance with an impressively long finish. Give it some additional time in bottle to see it at its best. Editor's Choice

Randolph 2015 Syrah Horse Heaven Hills $38 84 points
Aromas of baking spice, vanilla and anise are followed by sweet, lightly chalky-feeling fruit flavors. Coffee notes linger on the very warm finish. The oak influence is primary, making the sense of place hard to find.

Result of a Crush 2016 Rhône-style White Blend Walla Walla Valley $25 88 points
This wine is a blend of 45% Grenache Blanc, 33% Marsanne and 22% Viognier. The aromas jump up, with notes of canned peach, flower and lees. Stone-fruit flavors extend on the sleekly styled palate, with peach notes lingering on the finish. It provides a lot of intrigue.

Result of a Crush 2015 Christmas Cuvée Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $NA 90 points
Aromas of sea salt, smoked meat, flower and olive lead to lightly styled, soft, palate-coating, meaty fruit flavors. It shows a delightful sense of elegance, with a persistent, smoke meat and black-pepper-filled finish. Editor's Choice

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 In the Rocks Vineyard Estate White Viognier Walla Walla Valley $NA 88 points
This is one of the few examples of the variety coming out of this region. Slightly cloudy in color, the aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of peach, whole lime, mineral and wet stone. The palate is light but flavorful, with the concentration waxing and waning throughout.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2015 In the Hills Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75 93 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s vineyard in the foothills of the Blue Mountains. The aromas pop, with notes of nori, black pepper, sea breeze, parsley, black olive tapenade, fresh flower, herb and wet stone, revealing more complexity on each swirl. Smoked meat aromas emerge over time. The palate is elegant yet richly flavorful, with an extremely long, smoked meat finish. This one is all about delicacy and finesse but it brings both in abundance.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2015 Reserve Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $NA 92 points
The aromas are brooding out of the gate, with notes of earthy funk, freshly ground black pepper, black olive, smoked meat and tar. The palate is elegant but still richly flavorful with a lingering smoky meat-filled finish. It seems a bit difficult to access at present, though it broadens with some time open. Best after 2022.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2015 The Contender Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $85 90 points
Pale in color, light aromas of blueberry, smoked meat, ember and green herb are followed by light elegant fruit and savory flavors. It’s a pretty expression of the variety and region.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2015 Estate In the Rocks Syrah Walla Walla Valley $85 92 points
The aromas of this wine intoxicate, showing more initial fruit aromas compared to many wines from this region, with strong blueberry and orange peel scents. Those notes are dominated by more savory tones over time, with waves of wildflower, olive, fresh herb, gravel and a whiff of smoked meat. The elegant palate offers a seamless feel that leads into an extended finish, showing a lovely overall sense of refinement.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2015 Stonessence Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $100 92 points
The aromas are expressive, with abundant notes of smoked ham along with herb, wet stone and olive. The palate has a sensuous soft feel, with fruit and savory flavors carrying on the smoked meat finish. It’s all about elegance. Give it some time to open up.

Rôtie Cellars 2016 Northern Blend Syrah Walla Walla Valley $48 89 points
The 5% Viognier is out front on first pour, with aromas of freshly squeezed orange dominating, with notes of wet stone and smoked meat emerging over time. The palate brings a mixture of fruit and savory flavors, with the concentration seeming light. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Rôtie Cellars 2016 Southern Blend Washington $48 91 points
This wine is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah. The aromas jump up, with notes of fresh orange, raspberry, olive, herb and wet stone. The palate is full bodied and rich, with abundant fruit and savory flavors that persist on the finish.

Ryan Patrick 2017 Rosé Columbia Valley $15 86 points
A very pretty pale-salmon color, apple and cherry aromas are followed by broad-feeling fruit flavors that taper on the back end. It seems a bit weighty.

Ryan Patrick 2017 Olsen Brothers Vineyard Riesling Yakima Valley $12 85 points
Subdued, slightly reduced aromas of lime leaf and white peach lead to just off-dry drinking, lighter-styled fruit flavors, with ale notes on the tart finish. There are good things going on, but it seems a bit pulled back for the variety. Perhaps it just needs some additional time in bottle?

Ryan Patrick 2016 Naked Chardonnay Columbia Valley $12 84 points
Aromas of canned corn are followed by quite light and linear-seeming fruit flavors. It comes off as very light.

Ryan Patrick 2016 Redhead Red Blend Columbia Valley $15 86 points
Black currant, blueberry and tar aromas lead to lightly sweet blackberry flavors. It shows a fair amount of sugar but largely pulls it off.

Ryan Patrick 2015 Rock Island Red Blend Wahluke Slope $20 88 points
Mostly Syrah (73%) along with Cabernet Sauvignon (23%) and a pinch of Merlot, the aromas show notes of vanilla and dill in front of blueberry and dark cherry. The palate is full bodied and comes off as high octane, with a background of firm slightly gritty tannins. Though listed as only 20% new American oak, it shows a bit prominently at times.

Sagelands 2016 Dark Shadow Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $11 85 points
Aromas of black currant, cassis and herb lead to off-dry dark-fruit flavors. It’s a straightforward quaffer. Drink now.

Sawtooth 2017 Pinot Gris America $13 88 points
Aromas of pear, grass, green apple and lemon zest, lead to a flavorful palate full of pineapple flavors, backed by a zip of lemony acidity. It delivers a lot of quality and value. Best Buy

Sawtooth 2017 Rosé America $13 86 points
Quite light in color, the aromas are elusive, with notes of citrus and cherry. It drinks dry, with a lightly smoky finish.

Shoup 2014 Columbia Valley $100 90 points
The aromas are brooding, with notes of dried herb, soil and cherry. The cherry and black-fruit flavors are rich and full, with firm tannins providing support. Give it some time in the cellar to develop. Best after 2023.

Spoken Barrel 2015 Heritage Rich and Complex #42 Red Blend Columbia Valley $20 87 points
Blackberry, asphalt, anise and spice lead to quite dry fruit and lighter-styled flavors, with the tannins giving a light squeeze.

Spoken Barrel 2015 Bold and Complex #42 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $20 84 points
The aromas bring notes of cherry, exotic spice and whiffs of tire rubber. The cherry and cranberry flavors are tart and tangy, trailing on the back half with the tannins giving a light grip.

Tendril 2015 Octave Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $75 87 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of exotic spice, black tea, cherry, cedar and fresh herb. The flavors are sweet and palate coating, with dry, astringent, slightly bitter tannins. Perhaps some time will even them out?

Tenor 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $50 89 points
This wine was vinified in a mixture of new 300-liter French oak barrels (50%) and stainless steel, with all of the fruit coming from Stillwater Creek Vineyard. Appealing aromas of kiwi, whole pineapple and spice are followed by full-bodied, textured tropical-fruit flavors that lead to a warm finish. The concentration doesn’t seem all there, but it is still quite enjoyable.

Tenor 2016 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $50 88 points
Vibrant aromas of vanilla, cream, clarified butter and peach are followed by full-bodied textured fruit flavors with plentiful toasty notes on the warm finish. The concentration dips at times and the style seems oak heavy but there is still much to enjoy.

Tenor 2015 Syrah Columbia Valley $60 89 points
The aromas are generous and inviting, with notes of char, smoked meat, olive brine, flower and berry. The palate shows a pretty sense of elegance to the olive flavors—especially for the labeled alcohol level—but doesn’t fully deliver on all of the aroma’s promise.

Tenor 2015 Merlot Columbia Valley $58 89 points
Barrel aromas are at the fore, with notes of char and toasty oak in front of red fruit. The fruit and barrel flavors are lithe, with the tannins bringing a slightly grainy feel. The oak shows prominently at present.

Tenor 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $68 87 points
Green pepper, clove, herb, graphite and spice aromas are followed by dry, somewhat lighter-styled flavors. The tannins don’t seem fully resolved.

The Fam Vin 2016 The Gr8 White Chardonnay Columbia Valley $18 86 points
The aromas offer notes of fresh flower and canned peach, with lightly styled flavors that follow. The concentration at times seems a bit light. Still, it delivers plenty of easy-drinking appeal.

The Fam Vin 2015 The Gr8 Cab Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $23 87 points
Lighter-styled aromas of cherry, vanilla, plum and herb lead to ripe raspberry flavors and cherry flavors. It’s straightforward but comes off as a bit light for the variety.

The Huntsman 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $16 85 points
Light in color, the aromas provide notes of black currant and herb, with the oak dialed way back. The palate is elegantly styled, with the concentration seeming a bit lacking.

The Orcas Project 2017 Dutchman Vineyard Albariño Yakima Valley $23 87 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Dutchman Vineyard. The aromas pop, with notes of lemon rind and melon leading to lightly spritzy ale, pineapple-rind and melon flavors. It appears to need some additional time in bottle to settle in.

The Orcas Project 2016 Garnacha Yakima Valley $35 88 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from Art den Hoed and Upland vineyards. Light in color, the aromas suggest notes of raspberry candy along with herb accents. There’s a pretty sense of purity to the raspberry-jam flavors that persist on the warm finish.

The Orcas Project 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Merlot Yakima Valley $45 88 points
This wine is 100% Merlot. High-toned aromas of coffee, graphite, licorice, black raspberry and spice lead to medium-bodied fruit flavors that paint around the edges, missing in the middle. There are good things going on if the midpalate fleshes out.

The Orcas Project 2016 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $51 90 points
Fruit for this 100% varietal wine comes from Bacchus and Weinbau vineyards. There’s no mistaking the variety, with its notes of sliced green pepper, herb, flower and cherry. The pit-fruit flavors are sweet but show a pretty sense of elegance that carries through the finish. It’s all about subtlety.

TruthTeller 2017 Frolic Viognier Yakima Valley $20 86 points
Perfumed aromas of flower, nectarine, lime and herb lead to lightly sweet-seeming fruit flavors. It’s a well made example of the variety.

TruthTeller 2016 The Stand Up Chardonnay Yakima Valley $20 85 points
The apple, spice and custard aromas take some time to tease out. The palate is medium bodied, shortening up on the finish.

TruthTeller 2015 Pun Red Blend Columbia Valley $30 87 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up the majority (53%) of this wine, with the rest 27% Malbec, 16% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. Cherry, raspberry and wet penny aromas are followed by pleasing, elegantly styled fruit flavors that bring a sense of structure. It seems to finish a bit warm.

TruthTeller 2015 Satire Bordeaux-style Red Blend Yakima Valley $25 88 points
This is a blend of 41% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot. The aromas are light, with notes of herb, cherry and anise, along with whiffs of tire rubber. The palate is lighter, classically styled, with the tannins bringing a bit of grip on the back end.

TruthTeller 2015 Wisdom Bordeaux-style Red Blend Yakima Valley $30 87 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up just under two-thirds of this wine, with the balance Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Coffee, cherry, anise and herb aromas are followed by juicy, somewhat lighter-styled fruit flavors. Firm, slightly gritty-seeming tannins back it all up.

TruthTeller 2015 The Madman Red Blend Columbia Valley $35 87 points
Syrah makes up most of this wine (60%), with the balance equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The aromas pop, with notes of blueberry, huckleberry, herb and asphalt. The palate shows a sense of elegance, with the tannins bringing a bit of grit.

TruthTeller 2014 The Confindante Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $45 86 points
This wine spent 30 months in only 40% new French oak. The aromas are lighter in style and don’t seem to be fully delineated, with notes of cranberry, cherry and herb, along with a strong anise note. The palate is dry, with scratchy, slightly astringent seeming tannins.

Washington Hills 2016 Dry Riesling Washington $10 83 points
The aromas are surprisingly light for the variety, seeming hard to get at. The palate seems light and dilute, with the flavors appearing washed out.

Waterbrook 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $13 87 points
The aromas leap up, with notes of pink grapefruit, herb and kiwi. The flavors are full in feel, providing enjoyment.

Williamson Vineyard 2013 Petite Sirah Snake River Valley (ID) $35 86 points
Baking spice, fresh herb, blackberry, orange peel and cranberry aromas are followed by flavors that mix equal parts fruit and barrel, with orange peel notes on the finish. Grainy tannins provide support.

Williamson Vineyard 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Snake River Valley (ID) $30 86 points
Aromas of medicine cabinet, brambly berry, tire rubber, and woodspice lead to sweet seeming fruit flavors. It doesn’t all come together.

Wind Rose 2017 Rosato Yakima Valley $16 86 points
This wine is a blend of half Dolcetto and half Sangiovese. Salmon colored, the aromas suggest notes of apple, sour cherry and pear. The palate brings tart dried apple and cherry flavors that finish short.

Wind Rose 2014 Lonesome Springs Ranch Sangiovese Yakima Valley $25 84 points
The aromas bring strong notes of tire rubber and raspberry. The palate is light in concentration, not able to pull it all together.

Spanish winery plants flag in Washington

Bodegas Valdemar, a fifth-generation family winery based in Spain, is in the process of building a facility in Washington. The winery, which will be called Valdemar Estates, is expected to open in spring of 2019.

“We decided to do this big step to Washington State, and we are really, really excited about it,” says Jesús Martínez-Bujanda Mora, who recently relocated to Washington with his wife and three-year-old daughter to focus on the project.

The Valdemar family has been in the wine business for nearly 130 years, prior to this point focusing exclusively on producing wines from the Rioja region. Martínez-Bujanda says his family has been considering starting a new winery for some time.

“For many years we’ve been considering investing in another winery in Spain in another region, but at some point, we realized it was not exciting for us. So many wineries have gone from Rioja to Ribera del Deuro, Rías Biaxas, and the other way around. It was not unique anymore.”

A graduate of the University of Washington, Martínez-Bujanda decided to take a tour of Washington wine country with his father and sister in September of 2016.

“To be honest, we fell in love with Washington State, with the place, the vineyards, and the people,” Martínez-Bujanda says. “We liked very much the variety of terroirs that there are in Washington. We really believe that this is a top wine region of the world and believe it’s going to keep growing and keep improving.”

Valdemar Estates will be based in Walla Walla. “We arrived in Walla Walla and we knew that the winery had to be [here],” Martínez-Bujanda says. “We like the culture that is here around the wine business and the people. I cannot tell you enough how much the people have helped us. I can only be grateful to them.”

The 20,000-square foot production facility and tasting room will be located on JB George Road near Amavi Cellars and is expected to open in March of next year. “It’s a little big, but we are not thinking in the next five years. We are thinking in the next 100 years,” Martínez-Bujanda says.

Valdemar Estates also purchased 25 acres of land at two separate sites in the Rocks District region of the valley. “We like to consider ourselves first growers and then also winemakers,” Martínez-Bujanda says, noting that the family farms approximately 750 acres in Rioja. “For us, the philosophy has always been about the vineyards.”

Martínez-Bujanda expects to plant the land in 2020, mainly to Rhône varieties and in particular Grenache. “Garnacha has been very important to our family since the beginning,” he says. “The Garnacha wines that we’ve tried from the Rocks really captured our attention.”

He has high praise for Rocks District wines, saying, “Today in the wine industry, there are vineyards all over the world, but it is very difficult to find a place that translates into the wines in the unique way that the Rocks does.”

Valdemar Estates made a limited amount of wine from Washington in 2017, using Cabernet Sauvignon from Red Mountain as well as Syrah from Walla Walla Valley. If they like the results, the wines will be released in late 2019. Valdemar Estates will also offer wines from its Spanish portfolio.

“We believe our Spanish wines should be an important part of our tasting room,” Martínez-Bujanda says. “I am curious to see the reaction of the people.”

To craft its Washington wines, this summer Valdemar hired one of Washington’s most talented winemakers, Marie-Eve Gilla, formerly of Forgeron Cellars. “I know it’s funny because I’m French and they’re Spanish, but to me it’s their heritage and the culture and the tradition,” Gilla says. “That is what was really attractive to me about them.”

Gilla also notes how important it is to have a well-established, non-US based winery decide to focus on Walla Walla Valley and Washington. “I think it gives as lot of credibility to our region.”

Image of Jesús Martínez-Bujanda Mora courtesy of Valdemar Estates.

Wine Enthusiast Reviews for October 2018

Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for October 2018. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read additional information on how I review wines here. All of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide. There is also a freely available Wine Enthusiast Tasting Guide app. See previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast's on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.

280 wines reviewed in the October issue of Wine Enthusiast.

One of the stories regarding current releases in Washington is the strength of the 2017 vintage for white wines. 2017 is quite simply the best Washington white wine vintage this decade and the best I’ve seen since at least 2008 (I’ll have more to say about the red wines once more are released). There are an abundance of high quality wines to be had across varieties. Examples from the October issue include:

Alleromb 2017 La Gran Flor Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $48, 92 points
Januik 2017 Sagemoor Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $20, 90 points
Rôtie Cellars 2017 Southern Blend Walla Walla Valley $32, 91 points
Rôtie Cellars 2017 Grenache Blanc Washington $32, 90 points
Syncline 2017 Boushey Vineyard Picpoul Yakima Valley $25, 91 points
Syncline 2017 Bloxom Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Columbia Valley $24, 90 points

The other story is regarding the 2015 red vintage, which was a bit of a struggler for the state. 2015 was the warmest vintage in Washington to date, and it challenged growers and winemakers alike. There were plenty of high quality wines made in Washington in 2015, but overall the wines from this vintage displayed far less consistency than we are used to seeing from the state. This is reflected in some of the scores below. I’ll have more to say on this in a subsequent post.

Top quality examples from 2015 reviewed in October include:

B. Leighton 2015 Olsen Brothers Syrah Yakima Valley $45, 93 points
Eight Bells 2015 8 Clones Red Willow Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $38 92 points
Fielding Hills 2015 Estate Riverbend Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $46, 91 points
Fielding Hills 2015 Estate Riverbend Vineyard Malbec Wahluke Slope $42, 91 points
Fielding Hills 2015 Estate Riverbend Vineyard Syrah Wahluke Slope $42, 91 points
Januik 2015 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $55, 92 points
Savage Grace 2015 Celilo Vineyard Merlot Columbia Gorge $38, 91 points
Saviah 2015 Funk Estate Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $60, 92 points
Saviah 2015 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $32, 91 points
Sixto 2015 Moxee Chardonnay Washington $55, 93 points

Continuing with recent vintages, a number of entry-level 2016 red wines have been released and we’re starting to see some high-end 2016 wines as well. On the entry level, a number of the wines display issues with ripeness and concentration, as noted in some of the tasting notes below. Again, I’ll have more to say about this vintage in a subsequent post, but October contains three standout top-tier offerings from 2016 (as well as those listed below for Savage Grace)

Block Wines 2016 Ankleroller Block Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $5092 points
Delmas 2016 SJR Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $7094 points
Kerloo 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $5792 points

In other news, Caleb Foster, formerly of Buty Winery and presently winemaker at J. Bookwalter, has launched his own label, Gunpowder Creek. The most compelling of his inaugural wines are two Cabernet Francs, one from Phinny Hill Vineyard and the other from Conner-Lee (Gunpowder Creek 2015 Caleb Foster The Greatest Hits Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills $55, 91 pointsGunpowder Creek 2015 Caleb Foster The Greatest Hits Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $5590 points).

Sagemoor Vineyards has launched its own wine brand, Selections by Sagemoor, and the first release of its Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend is a standout (Sagemoor 2016 Limited Release Without Rehearsal Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Columbia Valley $2890 points). Fans of Bordeaux Blanc-style wines, such as DeLille’s Chaleur Blanc, should definitely give this a look.

Savage Grace continues to make some of the most interesting, unique, and enjoyable wines in the state (Savage Grace 2016 Boushey Vineyard Côt Yakima Valley ($3292 points); Savage Grace 2016 Two Blondes Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rattlesnake Hills ($3291 points); Savage Grace 2017 Dineen Vineyard Côt Rattlesnake Hills ($28, 91 points); Savage Grace 2017 Copeland Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rattlesnake Hills ($3090 points). An additional note, the winery recently moved production to the Columbia Gorge. The tasting room in Woodinville remains open.

On the value side, the October issue contains three standouts, all of which subsequently landed in Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Best Buys of 2018 (L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Old Vines Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley ($1591 points); Substance 2016 Cs Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley ($1590 points); Bieler Family 2017 Daisy Pinot Grigio Washington ($1289 points).

Enjoy!


* * *

14 Hands 2016 Hot to Trot White Blend Washington $10 87 points
The aromas pop, with notes of tropical fruit, peach and flower. The palate brings just-off-dry peach and grapefruit flavors. There’s value to be had. Best Buy

14 Hands 2015 Limited Release Kentucky Derby Red Blend Columbia Valley $12 86 points
Lighter in color, the aromas offer notes of toasty spice, berry, green pepper and tire rubber. The red and blue-fruit flavors are sweet with a tangy finish.

14 Hands 2015 Stampede Bold Red Blend Columbia Valley $12 86 points
The aromas bring notes of orange zest, vanilla, pepper, oak spice and red cherry. The red-fruit flavors are light and soft in feel, delivering appeal.

14 Hands 2015 The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $30 86 points
The aromas bring notes of vanilla, herb, tire rubber and dark fruit. The cherry flavors are sweet and plump, backed by soft tannins. The oak plays a prominent part in the show.

14 Hands 2015 Hot to Trot Red Blend Columbia Valley $10 84 points
Aromas of blueberry pie, tire rubber and flower lead to medium-sweet-seeming fruit flavors with a grip of tannin. It doesn’t all come together.

14 Hands 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $12 84 points
Lighter in color, aromas of tire rubber, braised green pepper, herb and cherry are followed by lightly sweet, lightly concentrated fruit flavors. It doesn’t all work.

Alleromb 2017 La Gran Flor Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $48 92 points
The aromas are vivid, with notes of pear, pineapple, citrus, melon and herb. The palate explodes with kiwi, papaya and passion fruit flavors that carry on the finish. It’s flat-out delicious, showing a captivating sense of richness and texture with a lingering finish.

Alleromb 2015 Corfu Crossing Vineyard Grenache Columbia Valley $65 90 points
This wine hails from a vineyard on the Royal Slope. Light in color, the aromas are light and elusive, with notes of cigar box, white pepper and spice. The palate is transparent in style, with elegant strawberry flavors. One wants more aromatically, but the palate delivers.

Alleromb 2015 Cuvée B Red Blend Columbia Valley $40 88 points
This is a blend of 53% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Malbec. Somewhat lighter in color, the aromas show notes of wet penny, raspberry, wheat, herb stalk, cherry and spice. The flavors are light but juicy, tapering on the finish.

Alleromb 2015 Scarline Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley $65 88 points
High-toned aromas of cherry and spice are followed by surprisingly elegant fruit flavors given the listed alcohol level. It trails off on the finish.

Amavi 2015 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $33 90 points
This is a pan-Walla Walla Valley blend, with fruit coming from Seven Hills, Les Collines, Pepper Bridge, Summit View and Stone Valley vineyards. The aromas are brooding, with notes of dried herb, earth, blackberry, blueberry and flower revealing themselves over time. The flavors are dense and rich, backed by a squeeze of grainy tannins.

Ambassador Vineyard 2015 Estate Grown Grenache Red Mountain $44 87 points
Lighter in color, aromas of vanilla extract, green wood, baking spice, herb and raspberry are followed by light-bodied fruit flavors. The concentration doesn’t all seem there, and the wood is quite intense.

Ambassador Vineyard 2017 Special Selection Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley $25 86 points
Starting out a bit reduced, the aromas open to reveal notes of citrus zest and herb. The palate is quite light in style, not holding together on the finish.

Ambassador Vineyard 2015 Estate Grown Syrah Red Mountain $32 86 points
Aromas of cigar box, roasted coffee bean, vanilla and spice are followed by lighter-styled fruit and barrel flavors, with the latter winning out on the finish. The barrel influence is very intense.

Ambassador Vineyard 2015 Estate Grown Diplomat Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $40 85 points
This wine is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (83%), along with pinches of Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Aromas of medicine cabinet, dried cherry and spice are followed by medium-bodied fruit flavors, with medicine-cabinet notes on the finish. It doesn’t all come together.

Andrew Januik 2015 Stone Cairn Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $40 91 points
The aromas bring notes of black raspberry, cocoa, cherry, vanilla, anise and exotic barrel spice. Supple, reserved fruit flavors with firm tannins follow.

Andrew Januik 2015 Lady Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $50 90 points
Dried and fresh herb, cocoa, cherry, graphite and flower aromas are followed by exquisitely balanced cherry and herb flavors. An extended vanilla-filled finish caps it off. It’s a very pretty wine that shows the variety’s more herbal side.

Andrew Januik 2015 Los Molinos Columbia Valley $60 87 points
A new offering from the winery, this is a blend of 75% Grenache, 16% Mourvèdre and 9% Syrah. The aromas bring notes of orange peel, black pepper and cherry. The dark-fruit flavors are full bodied. The blend seems a bit hard to find.

Apex 2016 The Catalyst Red Blend Columbia Valley $15 86 points
Lighter in color, blueberry, smoke and herb aromas lead to quite-light-seeming fruit flavors. The concentration doesn’t seem all there but what is there is pleasant.

Ashan 2017 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay Columbia Valley $25 87 points
Aromas of pear, Grape-Nuts and toast lead to a palate that is broad down the middle, and lighter along the edges. It finishes a touch warm.

B. Leighton 2015 Olsen Brothers Syrah Yakima Valley $45 93 points
The aromas draw you into the glass with notes of green herb, freshly peeled orange, raspberry, smoked meat and mineral. The palate is reserved in style but still quite flavorful, with seamless smoked-meat flavors that linger on the long, long finish. Lighter styled, it’s all about subtlety and nuance but it delivers both in abundance. Editor's Choice

B. Leighton 2015 Gratitude Olsen Brothers Vineyard Yakima Valley $55 90 points
This wine is a blend of 70% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache and 5% Syrah. Lighter in color, the aromas offer notes of raspberry compote, orange peel, cherry and spice. The palate is light and airy, with raspberry notes on the finish. It’s a pretty blend of these varieties.

Baer 2015 Star Stillwater Creek Merlot Columbia Valley $35 90 points
The aromas are high register, with notes of flower, bittersweet chocolate, slightly dried-out cherry and black licorice. The palate has a firm sense of structure, with well-integrated tannins and abundant cherry flavors.

Baer 2015 Callisto Red Blend Columbia Valley $39 89 points
A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Syrah, 15% Petit Verdot and 1% Merlot, the aromas bring notes of dried tobacco, vanilla dried cherry, barrel spice and black licorice. The palate is full of black-fruit flavors that show a lot of depth, with the tannins showing some astringency. It has good things going on but seems a bit dried out.

Baer 2017 Shard Stillwater Creek Unoaked Chardonnay Columbia Valley $25 89 points
Light red-apple, pear and spice aromas lead to a flavorful, acid-driven palate. Citrus notes and bitters linger on the finish. This is an enjoyable, bright unoaked expression.

Baer 2015 Ursa Columbia Valley $39 88 points
Merlot (38%) and Cabernet Franc (38%) make up the bulk of this wine, with the balance, Cabernet Sauvignon (22%) and Malbec. Somewhat high-toned aromas of black raspberry, anise and spice are followed by soft ripe black-fruit flavors. It brings appeal but seems ever so slightly dried out.

Baer 2015 Arctos Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $43 88 points
Aromas of baking spice, black raspberry, cherry liqueur, fruit leather and black licorice are followed by pitch-black fruit flavors. There are a lot of good things going on but the fruit seems a bit desiccated.

Baer 2015 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley $25 87 points
The aromas aren’t quite ready to reveal their charms. The plum flavors are more giving but can’t make up the difference. It seems to be in a strange spot.

Barrister 2015 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $31 91 points
Most of this wine comes from fruit from Bacchus Vineyard. Whole green-pepper, fresh herb, cherry and spice aromas lead to full-bodied, rich ripe sweet cherry and herb flavors that lead to a warm finish.

Barrister 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $39 87 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills vineyards. Vanilla, butterscotch, char, herb and cherry are followed by lightly smoky fruit and barrel flavors. The barrel influence rules the day.

Barrister 2015 Kiona Estate Sangiovese Red Mountain $35 87 points
Aromas of baking spice, coconut, dried cherry and herb lead to a palate that mixes fruit and barrel. It runs a bit hot and the fruit seems dried out.

Battle Creek 2015 Roe Vineyard Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge $60 88 points
The aromas bring notes of cherry, sarsaparilla, nutmeg, wood spice, cranberry and orange peel. The flavors are full and rich, with a spice-filled finish. The oak influence seems a bit overt.

Beast 2015 Wildebeest Red Blend Columbia Valley $24 87 points
Blueberry, blackberry, herb and tar aromas lead to lighter-styled fruit flavors. There’s a sizable dip in the middle but what’s there is pleasant.

Bieler Family 2017 Daisy Pinot Grigio Washington $12 89 points
This wine was cofermented with Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Muscat. The aromas are compelling, with notes of freshly cut apple, petroleum jelly, honeysuckle, peach and pear. There’s a beautiful sense of lightness, texture and freshness to the fruit flavors that linger on the finish. The balance is exquisite. Best Buy

Block Wines 2016 Ankleroller Block Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $50 92 points
Lighter in color, oodles of black-pepper-corn, green-stem, blue-fruit, gravel and funk aromas rise up from the glass. The palate is light but flavorful, showing a mix of fruit and savory notes. Black-pepper and floral notes linger on the finish. This one is all about elegance, while remaining intense and flavorful.

Block Wines 2016 Boushey Vineyard Golden Block Grenache Yakima Valley $40 89 points
Extremely pale in color with an orange tinge, the aromas pop with notes of raspberry, stem, smoked meat and white pepper. The palate is lighter styled, putting an emphasis on elegance and not fully delivering on the aroma’s promise. Smoked-meat notes linger on the finish.

Borne of Fire 2016 The Burn Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $20 87 points
This wine comes from a new, yet-to-be approved growing region called The Burn. Plum, herb, green-pepper and baking-spice aromas are followed by lightly sweet black-currant flavors. The concentration seems a bit light.

Buty 2016 Sémillon-Sauvignon-Muscadelle Columbia Valley $25 89 points
The aromas are vibrant, with notes of pineapple and other tropical fruit, along with herb, lemon balm and spice. The palate is light on its feet, bringing a pleasing sense of balance, with a lingering finish.

Buty 2016 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $42 86 points
Lees aromas are at the fore, with notes of brioche and baked bread. The fruit flavors seem quite light and thin. It doesn’t all work.

Cayuse 2016 Cailloux Vineyard Viognier Walla Walla Valley (OR) $75 92 points
Flower, white peach and crystal-clear mineral and wet stone aromas lead to a full-bodied rounded palate that shows a beautiful sense of transparency and length. Minerality is much discussed and debated. This wine is a check mark in the column for its existence.

Cayuse 2016 Edith Armada Vineyard Grenache Rosé Walla Walla Valley (OR) $50 92 points
This wine is consistently at the top of the class. Pale copper in color with a slight peach tinge, the aromas show appealing notes of wet stone and mountain strawberry along with a kiss of herb. The flavors are bright and vivid, while remaining light on their feet. There’s a complexity seldom seen in this category. A long, citrus-filled finish caps it off. It’s a big-time winner, bringing a sense of seriousness and irreverence at the same time.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2015 Canoe Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $28 87 points
Aromas of dill, pickling spice, vanilla, herb and dark fruit lead to straight down the fairway, with light but plump-feeling fruit flavors. The aromas and flavors don’t sync up.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2015 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 87 points
The aromas are bright, with notes of cherry, plum, vanilla and baking spice. The fruit flavors are plump, with plenty of barrel accents. The tannins come off as quite dry, leading to a sweet vanilla-filled finish. The oak is at the fore.

Chester Kidder 2014 Red Blend Columbia Valley $60 88 points
Principally a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, aromas of cherry cola, underbrush and anise are followed by sweet rich black-fruit and licorice flavors that finish warm. The tannins bring quite a grip.

Claar 2014 White Bluffs Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $22 83 points
The aromas are light, with notes of blackberry and spice. The palate brings an astringent feel, with abundant bitter notes on the finish.

Col Solare 2015 Component Collection Malbec Red Mountain $85 90 points
The aromas are subdued, with notes of wood-spice, herb, dark chocolate, tar and black and blue fruit. Pillowy soft fruit flavors follow, with the tannins giving a light squeeze. A warm finish follows.

Col Solare 2015 Component Collection Estate Vineyard Cabernet Franc Red Mountain $85 88 points
There’s no question about the variety, with its notes of dried and fresh herb, flower and cherry, along with red-apple skin. There’s a pleasing sense of balance to the palate, with the tannins bringing a lightly tacky feel. Give it some time in the decanter if opening in the near term.

Col Solare 2015 Collector’s Society Malbec Red Mountain $95 88 points
On this 100% varietal wine, plentiful aromas of plum, tar and spice are followed by elegantly styled fruit flavors. It’s a very pretty expression of the variety from this blazing hot appellation and vintage.

Col Solare 2015 Component Collection Estate Vineyard Syrah Red Mountain $85 87 points
Herb, flower, char, blue-fruit, tar and cedar aromas are followed by full-bodied fruit flavors. It trails on the blue-fruit-filled finish. It seems quite light and linear right now.

Col Solare 2015 Collector’s Society Red Blend Red Mountain $95 87 points
A unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (63%) and the seldom seen in the state Carmenère, the aromas are downright fruity, with notes of black currant, berry, red apple and herb. The flavors are sweet and ripe but maintain a sense of balance, though they seem a bit bunched up.

Columbia Crest 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $45 88 points
The aromas bring notes of black raspberry, blueberry, scorched earth, apple and brooding barrel spice. The palate brings a sense of richness yet elegance. It seems to be in an unusual spot at present.

Columbia Crest 2015 Reserve Heart of the Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $40 88 points
Red-apple-skin, blackberry and spice aromas lead to full-bodied cherry and cranberry flavors. The tannins give a firm, dry squeeze. Give it an extended decant if drinking in the near term.

Columbia Crest 2016 H3 Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills $15 86 points
Bright aromas of melon rind, lemon zest and toast lead to lighter-styled tropical-fruit flavors. The concentration seems quite light. Pink-grapefruit notes linger on the finish.

Columbia Crest 2015 Les Chevaux Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $15 86 points
The mint, green herb, vanilla and blackberry aromas are elusive. The flavors are lightly styled, with a sweet finish.

Columbia Crest 2016 H3 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $45 86 points
Aromas of sugared plum, green pepper and herb lead to lightly sweet-seeming easy-drinking fruit flavors. The concentration seems very light.

Columbia Crest 2015 Reserve Andrews and Rowell Vineyard Malbec Horse Heaven Hills $40 86 points
The aromas show notes of bruised apple and pear. Lighter-styled plum flavors follow. It doesn’t all work.

Côte Bonneville 2015 Estate Bottled DuBrul Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley $50 89 points
Barrel fermented and then aged on lees for 17 months, light nuanced aromas of clarified butter, pineapple, corn silk, peach and spice lead to medium-bodied fruit flavors. Lighter styled, it shows a very pretty sense of sophistication, especially considering the warmth of the vintage.

Côte Bonneville 2014 Estate Bottled DuBrul Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $65 88 points
Cranberry, raspberry and cherry aromas are followed by medium-bodied fruit flavors with a short finish. It’s an elegant interpretation of the variety.

Côte Bonneville 2015 Train Station Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $35 88 points
Generous aromas of fresh black currant, blackberry, herb and anise are followed by fruit-forward flavors. The tannins give a gentle squeeze. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s straight down the fairway for this variety.

Côte Bonneville 2017 Estate Bottled DuBrul Vineyard Riesling Yakima Valley $22 88 points
Aromas of lime leaf, peach nectar, citrus and flower lead to plentiful, a medium-sweet lemon iced-tea flavor, with plenty of peach accents. There are a lot of good things going on, but it needs more acid to stand up to the sugar.

Côte Bonneville 2012 Carriage House DuBrul Vineyard Red Blend Yakima Valley $50 88 points
This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Aromas of gummy bear, herb, pink-peppercorn, dark coffee and spice are followed by elegantly styled fruit and green-pepper flavors. It’s a very pretty wine, though it comes off as a bit light.

DaMa 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $50 88 points
Aromas of green herb, green pepper, tar, orange twist and blackberry are followed by medium-bodied cherry and green-pepper flavors. Orange-rind notes linger on the finish.

DaMa 2014 Collage Walla Walla Valley $55 87 points
This wine is principally Merlot (69%), with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (26%) and Cabernet Franc. Aromas of baking spice, fresh herb, blackberry, tar and spice lead to lighter-styled fruit flavors. The concentration seems light, but what’s there is nice, bringing a sense of elegance.

DaMa 2015 Tempranillo Columbia Valley $45 86 points
This wine is quite light in color for the variety. Aromas of fresh tobacco, orange peel and herb are followed by lighter-styled fruit flavors. It all seems quite dialed back, not appearing to have fully ripened and fleshed out.

Damsel 2015 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley $36 88 points
Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, the black-pepper, clove, flower, herb and spice aromas are followed by light plump fruit flavors, with a tart finish. The concentration seems light for the variety but what’s there is interesting.

DeLille 2015 D2 Columbia Valley $49 87 points
This wine is mostly Merlot (58%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) along with pinches of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Aromas of dried raspberry, mint, herb and spice lead to rich but dried-out-seeming fruit flavors that finish short.

Delmas 2016 SJR Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $70 94 points
Somewhat lighter in color, the aromas show notes of barrel spice, smoke, blueberry, dried flower, coffee, orange peel and boysenberry. The palate is seamless, ripe, full and fruit filled with an extremely (extremely) long finish. It’s a much riper, fruitier, more oak-driven style than typically seen from the Rocks region but it’s delicious all the same. Best from 2025–2031. Cellar Selection

Devona 2016 Chardonnay Washington $44 88 points
Fruit for this wine comes from esteemed Celilo Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge. Aromas of lemon custard, lees and corn silk are followed by elegantly styled lemony flavors. The lees influence seems a bit intense.

Dowsett Family 2016 Aunt Diane’s Vineyard Riesling Columbia Gorge $16 89 points
Bone-dry Rieslings are a rarity in the state and this is an intriguing example. Lime, herb, pink-grapefruit, slate and white-peach aromas are followed by piercingly dry white and pink-grapefruit flavors that linger on the finish.

Eight Bells 2015 8 Clones Red Willow Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $38 92 points
A unique wine for the state, as the name implies, this is a blend of eight different clones of Syrah, along with pinches of Grenache and Viognier. Lighter in color, the aromas leap up, with notes of blueberry, fresh raspberry, flower, tangerine peel and dried and fresh herb. The palate shows a dazzling sense of texture and purity that lead to a fruit and smoked-meat-filled finish. It’s downright delicious. Give it some time to open up. Editor's Choice

Eight Bells 2014 David’s Block Red Willow Vineyard Yakima Valley $38 89 points
This is a unique wine for the state—a field blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère and Petit Verdot from a block designed by the late Master of Wine David Lake. Subdued aromas of herb, cherry and spice lead to elegant but still rich dark-fruit flavors. It shows a lovely sense of acidity, balance and length. Give it some time to open up.

Eight Bells 2015 Red Willow Vineyard Sangiovese Yakima Valley $25 89 points
Light in color, the aromas are elusive, with notes of raspberry and cherry candy, along with earth accents. The flavors are elegant and pure, lingering on the finish. It doesn’t quite stand up on its own but should absolutely shine at the dinner table.

Eight Bells 2017 Boushey Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley $28 88 points
This wine comes from a vineyard best known for its Syrah. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of flower, fresh pear, ripe banana, mineral, guava and citrus. The palate shows lightly spritzy muscat gummy and lemon flavors, giving a pleasing sense of purity.

Feather 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $65 91 points
Effusive aromas of tar, blackberry, herb, graphite and spice lead to supple, pitch-black, extremely rich fruit flavors. Lightly grainy tannins back it all up.

Fielding Hills 2015 Estate Riverbend Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $46 91 points
Aromas of blackberry, plum, graphite, coffee, generous oak spices and cassis lead to rich ripe layered fruit flavors that are followed by a warm finish. Firm tannins back it all up. It’s a hedonistic delight.

Fielding Hills 2015 Estate Riverbend Vineyard Malbec Wahluke Slope $42 91 points
This is the winery’s third vintage of this wine. Aged in a combination of French and American oak (50% new), the aromas are generous, with notes of coconut, vanilla, cherry, graphite and spice. The full-bodied fruit flavors are plump and rich, with fruit and barrel intertwining on the finish. It brings a big yum factor.

Fielding Hills 2015 Estate Riverbend Vineyard Syrah Wahluke Slope $42 91 points
Aged in French and American oak (88% new), aromas of toast, vanilla, coconut shavings, blackberry, cocoa and black cherry lead to rich ripe sweet full-bodied fruit flavors, with vanilla and coconut notes lingering on the finish. For those looking for a big full warm vintage Syrah, look no further.

Fielding Hills 2015 Estate Riverbend Vineyard Merlot Wahluke Slope $38 90 pointsThe aromas and flavors show notes of baking spice, vanilla, coconut, cherry and anise, mixing fruit and barrel. The tannins are lightly grainy in feel, with coconut flavors on the warm finish.

Fielding Hills 2015 Estate Riverbend Vineyard Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope $38 90 points
Always a standout for the winery, this vintage is no exception. Cocoa, vanilla extract and cherry aromas lead to full ripe fruit and barrel flavors. Spice notes linger on the warm finish.

Fielding Hills 2015 Estate Tribute Riverbend Vineyard Red Blend Wahluke Slope $38 90 points
Barrel notes are at the fore, with aromas of vanilla, dill and baking spice in front of dark cherry. The palate is lush and full bodied, with fruit and barrel intertwining on the finish.

Fielding Hills 2017 Rothrock Vineyard Old Vine Chenin Blanc Yakima Valley $28 88 points
The aromas fascinate with notes of dried yellow apple, pear and apple peel. The palate is bone dry, made in a sleek, elegant style, with a bright sense of acidity.

Fielding Hills 2015 Estate Defiance Vineyard Syrah Lake Chelan $42 88 points
This is the winery’s first release from the estate vineyard adjacent to the recently built facility. Initially subdued aromas of raspberry, blueberry and barrel spice lead to ripe rich sweet smoky fruit flavors. Mesquite notes linger on the finish.

Figgins 2015 Walla Walla Valley $85 91 points
This single-vineyard wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Aromas of bittersweet chocolate, flower, tar, scorched earth, herb, cherry and barrel spice are followed by well-balanced dark-fruit flavors. The tannins bring a light grip. It doesn’t hit the high marks of recent vintages but still delivers enjoyment.

Gård 2016 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley $28 88 points
Clarified butter, white peach, crayon and spice aromas are followed by creamy-feeling fruit flavors. The oak and malolactic influence seems heavy but there’s still much to enjoy.

Gård 2015 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $35 88 points
This wine is lighter in color than the norm for this variety. It brings aromas of whole green pepper, olive, black cherry and exotic spice. The palate shows a lighter styling, with a pretty sense of balance between the fruit and herb flavors. It’s all about sophistication.

Gård 2017 Freyja Lawrence Vineyards White Blend Columbia Valley $16 88 points
Prominent aromas of pear, peach and flower are followed by sleek stone-fruit flavors. A zip of acidity on the finish heightens the interest. One wants more concentration but what is there impresses.

Gård 2017 Grand Klasse Reserve Rosé Columbia Valley $22 87 points
This wine is all Grenache from Lawrence Estate Vineyards. Aromas of rubber band, herb and cherry are followed by dry lighter-styled fruit flavors.

Goedhart Family 2013 Bel’ Villa Vineyard RMAVA Grand Class Syrah Red Mountain $30 86 points
Aromas of medicine cabinet, dried fruit, dried tobacco and spice lead to elegantly styled fruit flavors. It shows a lot of restraint for the vintage and appellation.

Gorman 2015 The Bully Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $50 91 points
Barrel aromas are at the fore, with notes of char, dark chocolate, vanilla and toast in front of black fruit. The flavors are rich and full bodied, supported by a firm structure of tannins. The oak influence is primary. Give it some time to integrate.

Gorman 2015 The Evil Twin Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $65 91 points
This wine is a 65-35 blend of these two varieties. Aromas of fresh and dried herb, black cherry, licorice, orange peel and blue fruit are followed by plump, textured blue and black-fruit flavors. The appeal is as much about feel as flavor.

Gorman 2016 Big Sissy Chardonnay Columbia Valley $35 90 points
The aromas offer notes of toasty oak, ripe peach, tropical fruit and spice. The stone-fruit flavors bring a sense of richness and intensity with a warm finish. For those looking for a big oak-driven Chardonnay, look no further.

Gorman 2015 The Pixie Syrah Red Mountain $45 88 points
The aromas are generous, with notes of char, tangerine peel, café au lait, spice and blue and black fruit. The palate is medium bodied, dipping in the middle, with a lightly creamy feel. Smoked-meat flavors persist on the finish.

Gorman 2017 Old Scratch Chardonnay Columbia Valley $18 86 points
Aromas of toast, peach, corn on the cob and herb are followed by light, spritzy, full-feeling flavors. It doesn’t all work.

Grounded Wine Co. 2016 Collusion Red Blend Columbia Valley $23 86 points
This wine is mostly Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, topped off with a pinch of Syrah. The aromas come out of the gate reduced, with notes of tire rubber in front of green pepper, cherry and raspberry. The medium-bodied fruit flavors are straight down the fairway, though the concentration seems light.

Guardian 2016 Chalk Line Red Blend Columbia Valley $25 90 points
This wine is 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Syrah, 28% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. The aromas pop, with notes of raspberry, huckleberry, green pepper, plum and herb. The fruit flavors are supple, showing a pleasing sense of texture and balance.

Guardian 2015 Gun Metal Columbia Valley $42 88 points
This wine is a blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. Aromas of green, leafy herb, coffee, cherry, dried tobacco and black licorice are followed by chocolate, cherry, tobacco and herb flavors. It comes off as pretty green.

Guardian 2015 The Informant Syrah Wahluke Slope $32 87 points
Hailing from Stonetree Vineyard, the aromas show notes of raspberry, blueberry, spice and a light medicinal note. The palate mixes rich dark-fruit and medicine-cabinet flavors.

Guardian 2015 The Wanted Columbia Valley $42 86 points
Cabernet Franc (43%) takes the lead, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (43%) and Petit Verdot with the fruit sourced from the Klipsun and Stonetree Vineyards. Aromas of red and black cherry, dried herb, game, leather and medicine cabinet are followed by a palate full of gamy flavors, supported by grainy-feeling tannins.

Guardian 2015 The Rookie Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $49 85 points
This is a blend of fruit from the Obelisco and Klipsun vineyards. Band-Aid, dried black-cherry, game and medicine-cabinet aromas are followed by light, dried-out-seeming dark-fruit flavors. It doesn’t all come together.

Gunpowder Creek 2015 Caleb Foster The Greatest Hits Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills $55 91 points
This is a new project from longtime Washington winemaker Caleb Foster. There’s no mistaking the variety, with its notes of garden herb in front of cherry and flower. The flavors are elegant, pure and supple, with a long finish. Editor's Choice

Gunpowder Creek 2015 Caleb Foster The Greatest Hits Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $55 90 points
This is a new project from longtime Washington winemaker Caleb Foster. Aromas of fresh herb, sliced green pepper, flower, orange peel and cherry are followed by soft sumptuous pure cherry flavors. The finish carries. Editor's Choice

Gunpowder Creek 2016 You Want It Darker The Greatest Hits Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills $55 89 points
The aromas are light and very high toned out of the gate, with notes of fresh herb and jalapeño pepper, with cherry lurking in the background. The black-fruit flavors are elegant but show a lovely sense of purity, with a lightly tacky feel. Give it some additional time in bottle to settle in. Best after 2019.

Gunpowder Creek 2016 Caleb’s Harvest The Greatest Hits Les Collines Vineyard Sémillon Walla Walla Valley $30 86 points
Aromas of fig, toasted Grape-Nuts and fresh lemon are followed by lighter-styled fruit flavors. The concentration seems quite light.

Gunpowder Creek 2016 Conner Lee Vineyard Sémillon Columbia Valley $30 85 points
The aromas offer initial notes of burnt toast, char and reduction. The palate brings medium-bodied fruit flavors with a citrus-filled finish. Fruit and barrel clash here.

Hedges 2015 La Haute Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $65 88 points
100% Cabernet Sauvignon all biodynamically grown, the aromas offer notes of dried tobacco, barrel spice, medicine cabinet and dried cherry. The palate brings a sense of elegance and refinement, with enough tannic structure to reward time in the cellar.

Hedges 2017 CMS Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $14 86 points
Starting out reduced, light aromas of herb, citrus zest, kiwi and other tropical fruits lead to lighter-styled fruit flavors. There are good things going on but the concentration seems light.

Hedges 2015 CMS Red Blend Columbia Valley $14 85 points
Merlot (65%) makes up most of this wine, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (27%) and Syrah. Pale in color, aromas of raspberry, Muscat gummy candy and rubber band and lead to quite light fruit flavors, with the tannins giving a slightly astringent feel.

Januik 2015 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $55 92 points
Coming from the state’s premier Cabernet vineyard, brooding aromas of black cherry, ripe black currant, black coffee and toasty spices lead to well-balanced, layered dark-fruit flavors with expertly integrated tannins. It shows a beautiful sense of polish as well as great length. Editor's Choice

Januik 2017 Sagemoor Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $20 90 points
Pear, grass, fig, toast and lemon-peel aromas are followed by medium-bodied, textured fig, melon and barrel-spice flavors that persist on the finish. The Sémillon blended in (22%) gives the palate extra weight and depth. Editor's Choice

Januik 2015 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $40 90 points
The aromas offer notes of cocoa, herb, cherry, pencil lead, vanilla and spice. The black-fruit flavors are rich but show a pleasing sense of balance.

Januik 2015 Reserve Columbia Valley $65 90 points
This wine is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) along with a dash of other Bordeaux varieties. Aromas of baking spice, coffee, blackberry and dried herb lead to elegantly styled but still rich black-fruit flavors. It’s a very pretty wine, especially considering the warmth of the vintage.

Januik 2015 Champoux Vineyard Malbec Horse Heaven Hills $40 90 points
There’s no mistaking the variety, with its aromas of dark plum, fresh herb, clove and toasty barrel spices. Fruit flavors coat the palate, bringing a lovely sense of depth and texture. Best by 2022.

Januik 2015 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah Red Mountain $35 90 points
Coming from one of the state’s most esteemed sites, aromas of berry, smoke, mineral, blue fruit and bacon fat lead to well-proportioned fruit flavors. The finish carries.

Januik 2015 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot Red Mountain $35 90 points
Aromas of dark raspberry, pencil lead and baking spice are followed by focused well-balanced red-fruit flavors that persist on the finish. It’s an impressive offering of the variety.

Januik 2015 Merlot Columbia Valley $25 90 points
Baking-spice, dried dill, cedar box, vanilla and red-fruit aromas lead to soft textured rich raspberry flavors backed by grainy tannins. It’s a no-holds- barred interpretation of the variety.

Januik 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 89 points
Blackberry, earth, black licorice and sweet spice aromas are followed by rich fruit and barrel flavors. It seems ever so slightly dried out.

Januik 2015 Champoux Vineyard Merlot Horse Heaven Hills $40 89 points
This wine starts out ever so slightly reduced, opening to reveal aromas of raspberry, berry, vanilla and spice. The palate mixes fruit and barrel, showing a pretty sense of texture. Vanilla notes linger on the finish.

Januik 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $40 89 points
The aromas are high toned, with notes of black cherry, blackberry, vanilla and barrel spice. The black-fruit flavors are rich, painting a bit around the edges. It shows a sense of sophistication.

Januik 2015 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $45 89 points
Effusive aromas of black raspberry, cherry, earth, vanilla and black licorice lead to supple, elegantly styled red and black-fruit flavors that seem ever so slightly dried out. It’s an intriguing offering of the variety.

Januik 2015 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope $35 88 points
Aromas of vanilla, cocoa, baking spice, anise and cherry are followed by well-proportioned fruit and barrel flavors. The oak plays a very large part in the show.

Julia's Dazzle 2017 Pinot Gris Rosé Columbia Valley $20 87 points
Pale pink-orange, the aromas jump up, with notes of watermelon Jolly Rancher and cherry. The palate is light on its feet, with a spritzy feel. It still needs some time still to settle into the bottle.

K Vintners 2015 MCK Syrah Washington $35 92 points
Though labeled as Washington State, all of the fruit from this wine comes from Oldfield Vineyard in the Yakima Valley, next to famed Boushey Vineyard. The aromas are brooding on first pour, with notes of berry, fresh herb, orange peel, ground rock, bacon fat and smoke. The palate is full of seamless fruit and savory flavors. The tannins give a firm squeeze. Give it a decant if opening in the near term.

K Vintners 2015 The Boy Powerline Vineyard Grenache Walla Walla Valley $50 91 points
Fermented 100% whole cluster from the winery’s young estate vineyard, the aromas bring notes of brown stem, dried tobacco, green herb, flower and raspberry. The flavors are light but juicy with a long lingering finish. The stem influence is very primary at present. Give it time in bottle or a long decant to let it settle in.

K Vintners 2015 The Creator Powerline Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah Walla Walla Valley $55 90 points
This wine is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah from the winery’s young estate vineyard. Tobacco, green-herb, green-pepper, cherry, mineral and funk aromas are followed by quite elegant, supple juicy fruit flavors that lead to a lingering finish. The texture heightens the appeal.

K Vintners 2015 Broncho Stoneridge Vineyard Malbec Washington $70 90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the Royal Slope. The aromas pop, with notes of freshly peeled orange and tangerine along with fresh herb and piercingly pure plum. The palate is all about lightness and delicacy, with plentiful orange-peel flavors. It’s a fascinating, lighter-styled offering on the variety, though it might be a bit too elegant for some tastes.

K Vintners 2015 El Jefe Stoneridge Vineyard Tempranillo Washington $55 90 points
The aromas are high toned, with notes of raspberry, earth, spice and mineral. The palate is lighter styled, with the concentration not entirely holding throughout. An impressively long finish caps it off. Still, there are a lot of good things going on.

K Vintners 2016 Art Den Hoed Viognier Yakima Valley $25 87 points
This wine starts out quite reduced. Behind that are aromas of peach, apricot, Creamsicle and flower. There’s a pleasing sense of weight and viscosity to the palate, without ever getting bogged down.

Kerloo 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $57 92 points
This wine comes from the first vineyard in the state to plant Syrah, though the plantings are from the younger Marcoux area. The aromas pop, with notes of ash, green olive, parsley, gravel, herb, flower and ember, along with whiffs of smoked meat. The lighter-styled elegant fruit and savory flavors are sultry and textured, with smoked-meat notes lingering on the finish.

Kerloo 2016 Upland Vineyard Grenache Snipes Mountain $40 89 points
Quite light in color, the aromas exude notes of raspberry, moist earth, juniper berry, blue fruit and tangerine peel. The palate brings a sense of texture and elegance, putting a premium on purity, with lighter-styled fruit flavors. It shows the variety’s more graceful side.

Kerloo 2017 Blue Mountain Vineyard Grenache Blanc Walla Walla Valley $20 88 points
Walla Walla Valley white wines remain rare, with this vineyard on the cutting edge planting a number of them. Aromas of slate, citrus peel and apple are followed by sleek lively fruit flavors.

Kerloo 2017 Painted Hills Vineyard Grenache Rosé Columbia Valley $22 88 points
Pale-copper colored, the aromas are light, with lees notes taking center stage. There’s a pleasing sense of elegance to the palate, which has a creamy feel. The lees influence is quite prominent.

L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Old Vines Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley $15 91 points
Old-vine Chenin Blanc is becoming increasingly rare in the state as vines are pulled out to replant more profitable varieties. What a shame. The aromas here offer notes of freshly sliced pear, cantaloupe, banana, melon rind and papaya. The bone-dry palate brings an abundant tropical-fruit flavor and a strong sense of acidity. It lingers on the finish. Best Buy

L'Ecole No. 41 2015 Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley $55 90 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) is in the lead, followed by Merlot (25%), Malbec (10%) and Cabernet Franc. The aromas are redolent with notes of black currant, black raspberry, black licorice, fresh herb and spice. The palate is tightly wound, with layers of dark-fruit flavors, with slightly dry tannins bringing a grip on the finish. The tannins seem a bit unresolved at present.

L'Ecole No. 41 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 89 points
There’s much to love on the aromas, with notes of toast, cocoa, cherry and spice. The palate shows a pleasing interplay between the fruit and acidity. It needs some food to truly be appreciated. It should shine alongside a juicy steak.

L'Ecole No. 41 2015 Estate Merlot Walla Walla Valley $37 88 points
This wine is half from Ferguson Vineyard with the other half from Seven Hills. The aromas are light and high toned, with notes of red cherry, mocha, dark chocolate and spice. The flavors are medium bodied, with tart acidity and quite firm tannins that need some time to soften.

L'Ecole No. 41 2016 Syrah Columbia Valley $25 87 points
Though labeled as Syrah, this wine contains a healthy dollop of Grenache (20%) and a dash of Mourvèdre. Raspberry, toasty oak, plum, coffee and spice aromas are followed by lighter-styled fruit flavors that trail on the finish. The concentration doesn’t seem all there.

L'Ecole No. 41 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $40 87 points
This 100% varietal wine is a blend of fruit from Ferguson, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills vineyards. The aromas are hard to tease out initially, with notes of blackberry, mineral and spice emerging over time. The palate brings abundant dry tannins that give a strong squeeze. Lively acidity backs it all up. There are good things going on if the tannins integrate.

Lady Hill 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $35 90 points
A blend of fruit from Slide Mountain and Red Willow vineyards, this wine is lighter in color. Seeing just 30% new French oak, the aromas bring notes of red and black fruit, moist earth, fresh herb, flower and raspberry. The palate shows elegant yet rich red and black-fruit flavors that deliver a sense of sophistication.

Lady Hill 2014 Ad Lucem Elaina Columbia Valley $25 88 points
This wine is a blend of 48% Syrah, 30% Counoise, 17% Mourvèdre and 5% Grenache. Cranberry, herb, black-raspberry, blackberry and barrel-spice aromas lead to well-balanced fruit flavors. There’s a lot to like.

Lady Hill 2014 Ad Lucem Daystar Slide Mountain Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley $35 88 points
Lighter in color, the aromas bring notes of baking spice, raspberry, red cherry, smoke and herb. The oak seems primary, but there’s a lovely sense of texture to the palate that increases the appeal.

Lady Hill 2014 Procedo Red Willow Vineyard Sangiovese Columbia Valley $45 87 points
Pale in color, the aromas offer high-toned notes of raspberry hard candy, cranberry and flower. The palate shows a sense of elegance, with a supple feel to the pure red-fruit flavors.

Maryhill 2017 Proprietor’s Reserve Otis Vineyard Albariño Columbia Valley $20 88 points
Aromas of freshly cut pear, white flowers, citrus and sweet herbs are followed by white and pink-grapefruit flavors. A tart lingering finish caps it off with a bright impression.

Maryhill 2015 Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40 86 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from the Tudor, McKinley Springs and Clifton Hill vineyards. Aromas of maple sugar candy, boysenberry, fresh herb and barrel spice are followed by a mild concentration of fruit flavors.

Maryhill 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $26 85 points
Aromas of raspberry and dried cherry lead to tacky-feeling fruit flavors. The variety seems hard to place.

Maryhill 2015 Otis Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $40 84 pointsThe aromas bring notes of mint, dried cherry, orange peel, cranberry and spice, all seeming a bit dried out. The fruit flavors are light and bunched up.

Matthews 2015 Claret Columbia Valley $37 87 points
This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (26%), Cabernet Franc (21%), Malbec (4%) and Petit Verdot. The aromas offer high-toned notes of green herb, cherry, anise and char. The palate shows a light linear styling, not seeming to have the fruit or structure to entirely hold it all together.

Mullan Road 2015 Red Blend Columbia Valley $45 88 points
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the aromas bring notes of baking spice, dill, vanilla and cherry. The fruit flavors are lighter styled, dipping in the middle before coming back together. A light grip of tannin backs it up.

Newsprint 2016 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $21 88 points
Lighter in color, the aromas offer notes of flower, dried herb, grilled green pepper and red cherry. The flavors are somewhat lighter styled, but it still delivers a lot of enjoyment.

Newsprint 2016 Malbec Columbia Valley $18 87 points
The aromas are fruit forward, with notes of plum and spice, along with what appears to be a light oxidative note. The palate is lush and fruit-filled finishing warm.

Newsprint 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25 87 points
The variety is unmistakable, with notes of garden herb in front of dark fruit along with a medley of barrel spice. The fruit flavors are light but well proportioned.

Northstar 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40 91 points
Brooding aromas of dark fruit, char and spice are followed by velvety bittersweet chocolate, cherry and mocha flavors that linger on the persistent finish. The enjoyment is as much about feel as flavor.

Northstar 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $55 90 points
The aromas offer notes of blackberry, cherry, toast and spice. Lighter in style, there’s a pleasing interplay between fruit and barrel on the palate. Cocoa and coffee notes linger on the finish.

Northstar 2015 Merlot Columbia Valley $41 88 points
Somewhat lighter in color for the variety, aromas of fresh herb, flower, tire rubber, mocha and cherry are followed by lighter-styled fruit flavors. The tannins bring a slightly gritty feel.

Northstar 2015 Premier Merlot Columbia Valley $85 88 points
The aromas offer notes of raspberry, spice, red apple and herb, not seeming entirely settled. The flavors are lighter in style, with a slightly stewed feel.

Northstar 2015 Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $50 88 points
Merlot makes up 55% of this wine, with the balance Cabernet Sauvignon. Coming from the Anna Marie and Spring Valley vineyards, aromas of huckleberry, herb and spice lead to soft well-balanced blue-fruit flavors that persist on the finish. It shows a sense of elegance for such a warm vintage.

Novelty Hill 2015 Cascadia Columbia Valley $50 90 points
This wine is a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 7% Malbec. The aromas leap up, with notes of mountain blueberry, black raspberry and spice. The palate shows a lot of restraint, with lithe fruit flavors, speckled with barrel spices.

Novelty Hill 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $26 89 points
The aromas start out brooding, with notes of vanilla, cherry, graphite blackberry and plentiful herb. Black-fruit flavors coat the palate, with the tannins still needing time to settle in.

Novelty Hill 2015 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 89 points
High-toned aromas of raspberry, cherry, dried herb and baking spice lead to light but well-balanced red and black-fruit flavors with a lightly tacky feel. Oak accents abound.

Novelty Hill 2015 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley $28 89 points
The aromas are not yet ready to reveal their charms, with notes of barrel spice, dried dill and red fruit. The cranberry, raspberry and barrel flavors, meanwhile, show generosity and plushness. The barrel influence seems a bit heavy.

Novelty Hill 2015 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Grenache Columbia Valley $28 88 points
Aromas of cranberry, raspberry, vanilla and baking spice lead to concentrated flavors that show a mixture of fruit and barrel. There are good things going on but the oak seems quite heavy handed, overrunning the variety.

Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Viognier Columbia Valley $23 88 points
The aromas and flavors show notes of vanilla, pear tart, flower and spice, with fruit and barrel playing off each other. There’s plenty of enjoyment to be had.

Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Roussanne Columbia Valley $23 88 points
Examples of this variety are uncommon in the state. The aromas are light, with notes of toasted Grape-Nuts, pear and spice. The palate is elegant but flavorful, with a lightly creamy feel.

Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $20 88 points
The aromas are quite light, with notes of melon, lees, lemon, vanilla, herb and pear, with the palate bringing more of the same. There are good things going on but the concentration seems a bit light.

Novelty Hill 2015 Merlot Columbia Valley $23 88 points
Cocoa, vanilla and red-fruit aromas are followed by supple, rich fruit and barrel flavors. The barrel influence seems primary but there are good things going on.

Novelty Hill 2015 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley $28 88 points
Light aromas of dried flower, cherry and baking spice are followed by medium-bodied fruit flavors. It brings a sense of sophistication.

Novelty Hill 2015 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley $28 88 points
Barrel aromas are at the fore, with notes of char, coffee and wood spice in front of dark plum. The palate shows a pleasing sense of weight, texture and length. There are good things going on but the oak seems primary.

Orr 2017 Old Vine Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley $25 88 points
The aromas of this wine are quite light initially, seeming hard to tease out before opening to reveal notes of green apple, citrus zest, toasted Grape-Nuts and minerals. It drinks bone dry, while bringing a sense of richness.

Palencia 2015 Syrah Yakima Valley $36 89 points
This wine hails from Minnick Vineyard. Lighter in color, the aromas offer notes of cranberry, vanilla and baking spice. There’s a lovely sense of balance, elegance and texture on the palate, with fruit and barrel sharing the stage.

Palencia 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $18 88 points
Intense aromas of freshly scooped honeydew melon, flowers and herbs. The rounded palate brings plenty of appeal with its tropical fruit flavor. Enjoy now for its straightforward nature.

Palencia 2015 Grenache Yakima Valley $36 87 points
Fruit for this wine hails from Canyon Vineyard Ranch. Aromas of baking spice, vanilla extract and raspberry are followed by lighter-styled elegant fruit flavors, with abundant vanilla accents. There are good things going on, but the wood gets in the way, taking over on the palate.

Palencia 2015 Mourvèdre Yakima Valley $36 87 points
Extremely pale in color with an orange rim, the aromas offer notes of café au lait, spice, herb, vanilla and cherry, along with whiffs of tire rubber. The palate brings a sense of elegance, though the concentration doesn’t seem all there. The wood also seems a bit intense.

Palencia 2015 Casa Amarilla Yakima Valley $36 87 points
Grenache (60%) takes the lead on this wine, followed by Syrah (30%) and Mourvèdre. Lighter in color with an orange tinge at the rim, the aromas suggest notes of raspberry, cranberry, rose hips and vanilla bean. There’s a lovely sense of feel but the oak seems a bit intense.

Pedestal 2015 Merlot Columbia Valley $65 92 points
High-toned exotic spice, dark raspberry and barrel aromas are followed by focused, supremely rich fruit flavors that lead to a warm finish. Firm tannins provide support. For those who question if Merlot can be a serious wine, this is your answer.

Pepper Bridge 2017 Estate Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Walla Walla Valley $36 89 points
Made with 12% Sémillon, this wine is a blend of fruit from Summit View, Seven Hills and Les Collines vineyards. The aromas start out subdued, opening to reveal notes of tropical fruit, citrus peel and herb. In contrast, the palate is sleek but flavorful, loaded with papaya and kiwi flavors, with a citrus and tropical-fruit-filled finish.

Pirouette 2015 Columbia Valley $60 92 points
This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (21%), Petit Verdot (11%) and Malbec. The aromas are locked up on first pour, with notes of black cherry, cassis, cocoa, black currant, raspberry and high-toned barrel spice. The palate brings lithe fruit flavors, with firm lightly grippy tannins that need time to soften. It has all the stuffing but needs time in the cellar to come into its own. Best after 2025.

Primarius 2017 Pinot Noir Rosé Oregon $13 86 points
Pale salmon in color, the aromas are light and lack a sense of clarity. The palate is dry with an assortment of strawberry, herb and cherry flavors, with ale notes on the finish. It doesn’t quite seem to have fully settled in.

Pursued by Bear 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $70 91 points
The aromas offer notes of vanilla, cherry, coconut, cinnamon and baking spice. Fruit and barrel flavors intertwine on the palate, which displays a lovely sense of texture. Vanilla, coconut and cherry notes linger on the long finish. The barrel influence is quite prominent, but it shows a lovely sense of nuance.

Pursued by Bear 2014 Baby Bear Syrah Columbia Valley $60 90 points
Barrel aromas are at the fore, with notes of vanilla, coconut shavings and baking spice in front of cherry. The flavors bring a sense of richness, with barrel notes speckled throughout. Coconut flavors linger on the finish. It’s a very stylistic interpretation of the variety.

Pursued by Bear 2017 Blushing Bear Rosé Columbia Valley $28 88 points
A blend of Rhône varieties with Mourvèdre making up over half, this wine is pale-copper colored. The aromas are light, with notes of raw salad, strawberry, spice, grapefruit and cherry. The flavors are light but sleek, delivering appeal.

Rôtie Cellars 2017 Southern Blend Walla Walla Valley $32 91 points
White wines are an extreme rarity in the valley. This one shows the potential. A blend of Viognier (66%), Roussanne (18%) and Marsanne, the aromas are vibrant, with notes of honeysuckle, pear, tangerine and wet stone. The palate is redolent with sleek, lively stone-fruit flavors that show a dazzling sense of purity and linger on the finish. Editor's Choice

Rôtie Cellars 2017 Grenache Blanc Washington $32 90 points
This is an up-and-coming variety in the state, though plantings remain scarce. The aromas bring compelling notes of pear, citrus zest, wet stone and talc. The palate is sleek, with tart racy acidity. Food is required to fully appreciate this wine. Pair it with seared scallops. Editor's Choice

Rôtie Cellars 2017 Northern Blend Walla Walla Valley $32 88 points
Coming from an appellation where white wines are seldom seen, this wine is a blend of Marsanne (70%) and Roussanne. Vibrant notes of honeysuckle and white peach lead to a palate that is considerably more reserved than the aromas might suggest, with graceful citrus on the finish.

Sagelands 2016 Riverbed Red Blend Columbia Valley $11 84 points
Fruit-forward cranberry, cherry, blackberry and blueberry aromas are followed by quite light, ever so slightly sweet fruit flavors. It goes down easy, though the concentration is extremely faint.

Sagelands 2016 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $11 82 points
Aromas of canned corn and peach are followed by quite dilute fruit flavors. It’s a miss.

Sagemoor 2016 Limited Release Without Rehersal Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Columbia Valley $28 90 points
Grown by Lacey Lybeck and crafted by Winemaker Ali Mayfield, this wine is a blend of fruit from Dionysus, Bacchus and Gamache Vineyards. Aromas of toast, lemon zest, lees, banana and whole pineapple are followed by rich tropical-fruit flavors that carry through to the creamy finish. Editor's Choice

Saggi 2015 Red Blend Columbia Valley $55 88 points
This wine starts out a bit reduced, with aromas of tire rubber, char and pencil eraser in front of cherry, flower, raspberry and herb. The flavors are sleek in style, with firm, not fully resolved tannins backing it all up.

Savage Grace 2016 Boushey Vineyard Côt Yakima Valley $32 92 points
Coming from a vineyard best known for its Syrah, the aromas show complexity, with heaping notes of black pepper, flower meadow, freshly chopped herb, mint, fresh tobacco and wet gravel. The red and blue-fruit flavors bring a sense of purity, richness and texture, while remaining extremely deft with a long finish. It’s a completely unique offering of the variety in the state. Editor's Choice

Savage Grace 2016 Two Blondes Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rattlesnake Hills $32 91 points
This is the winery’s first release from this vineyard, and it’s a fascinating contrast to its two other offerings of this variety. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of garden herb, fresh tobacco, dark raspberry, green pepper and olive. The flavors are fresh and exuberant, bringing a compelling sense of texture, freshness and purity. Editor's Choice

Savage Grace 2017 Dineen Vineyard Côt Rattlesnake Hills $28 91 points
This wine was fermented 100% whole cluster and saw just five months of neutral oak. Significantly lighter in color than most of the state’s offerings of the variety, it brings aromas of potpourri, dried herb, black pepper, spice and red plum. The palate is elegant in style, all about delicacy and purity of flavors, with tart acidity capping it off. Put it on the dinner table to see it shine. Editor's Choice

Savage Grace 2015 Celilo Vineyard Merlot Columbia Gorge $38 91 points
This is a true unicorn wine—an almost never seen variety from this vineyard where the vines were subsequently removed after this vintage. Starting out slightly reduced, it opens to reveal aromas of macerated cranberry, black raspberry and red currant. The flavors are concentrated and rich, showing a sense of layering. It’s quite ripe for the winery’s style but delicious all the same, showing a sense of purity given to the neutral oak aging.

Savage Grace 2017 Copeland Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rattlesnake Hills $30 90 points
This is a one-of-a-kind wine in Washington, released just over six months after harvest at an alcohol level unheard of for red wines (or typically even whites) in the state. Fermented 20% whole cluster and aged for four months in neutral oak, the aromas are pure, bright and fruit filled, with notes of raspberry, ash, cherry and flower. The palate is lighter styled, showing elegance and purity, with light smoky notes on the finish.

Savage Grace 2017 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Franc Rosé Yakima Valley $24 89 points
It’s rare to see rosé made from this esteemed vineyard. The color is a very appealing pale salmon. Aromas of freshly slice green pepper open up over time to show cherry and citrus. The palate is elegant and flavorful, with a lovely sense of texture and balance. It might show too green pepper for some tastes but there are lots of good things going on, especially with some additional time open.

Savage Grace 2017 Cru Carbonic Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $35 88 points
Made in a nouveau style, where whole cluster grapes are covered with carbon dioxide during fermentation, the aromas bring pure notes of strawberry, raspberry, green pepper, herb and fresh flower. The flavors are pure and elegant, bringing a sense of freshness along with a lightly smoky finish.

Savage Grace 2016 Underwood Mountain Vineyard Syrah Columbia Gorge $42 88 points
Syrah is a rarity in this cooler-climate appellation, with this particular offering dry farmed. Starting out quite reduced, the aromas open to reveal heaping amounts of freshly ground black pepper along with sea salt and nori. There’s a pleasing sense of lightness and purity to the tart fruit and savory flavors. It’s a unique offering of the variety in the state. If the reduction blows off it could move up a notch or two.

Savage Grace 2015 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $35 87 points
Coming from one of the state’s premier vineyards, this wine is 100% varietal and saw just a kiss (10%) of new oak. Aromas of green herb, tobacco, anise, flower and blackberry lead to pure supple sweet fruit flavors. It’s an intriguing offering of the variety, almost completely unadulterated by new oak.

Saviah 2015 Funk Estate Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $60 92 points
Coming from the winery’s estate vineyard in the Rocks and blended with 5% Viognier, the aromas start out subdued for the region, opening up over time to reveal notes of orange peel, flower, blue fruit, black pepper, wet stone and light barrel spices. The palate brings a sense of depth and purity, with olive notes and orange peel on the extended finish. Best by 2022.

Saviah 2015 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $32 91 points
Fruit is at the fore, with notes of mountain blueberry and blackberry along with fresh herb and spice. The palate brings a lovely sense of elegance, texture and richness. Coffee notes linger on the finish.

Saviah 2016 The Jack Syrah Columbia Gorge $18 88 points
Though labeled as a Syrah, this is truly a GSM blend, with 12% Grenache and 8% Mourvèdre blended in. The aromas are generous, with notes of café au lait, blue fruit, wood spice, orange peel and herb. The concentration is light, but the flavors show a pleasing sense of freshness and detail.

Saviah 2015 Une Vallee Walla Walla Valley $35 88 points
This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (24%) and Cabernet Franc. There’s some reduction out of the gate. Smoke, tar, blackberry, blueberry and earth aromas and flavors follow, with a warm finish. There’s an appealing sense of texture and a length finish, but it seems a bit unsettled now.

Saviah 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $30 88 points
A blend of fruit from McClellan, Seven Hills, Dugger Creek and Anna Marie vineyards, the aromas are locked up out of the gate, with notes of asphalt, blackberry, mineral, dried herb and spice. The palate brings a big ball of fruit and tobacco flavors, concentrated around the center and tapering off quite a bit at the edges.

Saviah 2016 The Jack Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $18 87 points
Aromas of blueberry, herb and spice are followed by lighter-styled fruit flavors. It’s enjoyable but the concentration is quite light.

Sequel 2014 Vintage Select Bin 898 Syrah Columbia Valley $85 90 points
This is a reserve-level offering from the winery. The aromas show wood-forward notes of vanilla, barrel spice, black cherry and tar. The palate is full bodied, showing a mixture of fruit and barrel, with a smoky finish. The style is very oak heavy.

Sequel 2015 Syrah Columbia Valley $60 90 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from Boushey, Den Hoed, Bacchus, Sonnet and Candy Mountain vineyards. The Boushey contribution (32%) shows itself, with aromas of bacon fat, char, orange peel and iron in front of barrel spice (65% new French), boysenberry and blackberry. The fruit flavors are pitch black, with plenty of oak and meat accents that lead to a warm finish. The tannins seem unresolved and the oak is a bit heavy handed, but there are still good things going on.

Seven Falls 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $23 88 points
Aromas of cocoa, baking spice, vanilla and cherry lead to full-feeling blackberry and black-cherry flavors. The tannins bring a lightly grainy feel.

Seven Hills 2017 Dry Rosé Columbia Valley $18 91 points
A very pretty pale peach color, the aromas offer vibrant notes of watermelon, hard cherry candy, peach and an herb grace note. The palate shows depth while remaining light on its feet, with a tart flavorful finish that sails. Editor's Choice

Seven Hills 2015 McClellan Estate Vineyard Petit Verdot Walla Walla Valley $35 90 points
Aromas of barrel spice, licorice, fresh herb, coriander and cherry are followed by tightly wound tannins backed by bright acidity. It needs food alongside it to be fully appreciated but it’s pretty delicious.

Seven Hills 2015 Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $35 89 points
Baking spice, fresh herb, vanilla, whole green-pepper, cherry-cordial and barrel aromas lead to very pretty fruit flavors. The tannins seem a little grippy at present.

Seven Hills 2015 Pentad Walla Walla Valley $75 89 points
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Carmenère, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, the aromas are very pretty, with notes of blackberry, anise, fresh garden herb, cherry and baking spice. There’s a lovely sense of texture to the black-cherry and licorice flavors.

Seven Hills 2015 McClellan Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $50 89 points
The aromas deliver notes of green pepper, parsley, barrel spice, cherry cordial, fresh herb and anise. The palate brings an assortment of plush red and black-fruit flavors, with slightly dry tannins on the finish. It’s quite well made but it comes off as a little green and astringent at present.

Seven Hills 2015 Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $35 88 points
This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. A bit lighter in color, the aromas are high toned, with notes of dried currant, dried herb and barrel spice. It’s lighter in style with the tannins seeming a bit gritty and bunched up at present.

Seven Hills 2015 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain $55 88 points
This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot from one of the state’s top vineyard sites. Aromas of dried cherry, anise and blackberry Fruit Roll-Ups are followed by medium-bodied fruit flavors. The tannins give a firm, slightly dry grip. It seems dried out for its age.

Seven Hills 2015 Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $50 88 points
Aromas of anise, Fruit Roll-Ups and medicine cabinet are followed by pitch-black fruit flavors. The tannins bring a sense of astringency—a surprise from this typically supple site. It all seems a bit dried out.

Seven Hills 2015 McClellan Estate Vineyard Malbec Walla Walla Valley $35 88 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of plum, blackberry, spice and herb. The flavors bring a sense of purity with a tart finish.

Seven Hills 2015 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot Walla Walla Valley $45 86 points
Graphite, high-toned cherry, vanilla and herb aromas lead to somewhat elegantly styled fruit flavors. The tannins bring a bit of grip.

Sixto 2015 Moxee Chardonnay Washington $55 93 points
The aromas are thoroughly enchanting, with notes of peach, clarified butter, candle wax, mineral, chamomile and lemon rind. It’s full bodied and textured, full of stone-fruit flavors with a tropical-fruit-filled finish. Editor's Choice

Sixto 2015 Uncovered Chardonnay Washington $35 91 points
A blend of the winery’s three vineyard-designated Chardonnays from Roza Hills, Moxee and Frenchman Hills, the aromas are nuanced, with notes of spice, mineral, clarified butter, lees and candle wax. There’s a very pretty sense of elegance and texture that carries all the way through the finish. It’s all about sophistication.

Sixto 2015 Frenchman Hills Chardonnay Washington $55 91 points
This wine—one of three vineyard-designated offerings from the winery—is all about nuance, with notes of flower, lees, cream, lemon curd and spice. The palate brings layers of elegant flavors that carry into the distance on the finish.

Sixto 2015 Roza Hills Chardonnay Washington $55 91 points
A pale golden color, the aromas offer notes of clarified butter, lees, stone fruit, tropical fruit and spice. The palate is full bodied, with a rich creamy, almost thick feel. The flavors linger on the long finish.

Spring Valley Vineyard 2015 Katherine Corkrum Estate Grown Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $50 91 points
This is 100% varietal and aged in just a kiss (30%) new French oak. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of fresh herb, sliced green pepper, flower and cherry, showing a sense of sophistication. The cherry and herb flavors show elegance but also texture, depth and detail along with a lingering finish. It’s a very pretty, spot-on example of the variety. Editor's Choice

Spring Valley Vineyard 2015 Uriah Estate Grown Walla Walla Valley $50 90 points
This wine is a blend of 43% Cabernet Franc, 38% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. Aromas of whole green pepper, fresh herb, cocoa and cherry lead to lighter-styled fruit flavors backed by lightly grainy tannins. Those looking for big and bold, look elsewhere. This one is all about sophistication and elegance and it delivers both in abundance.

Spring Valley Vineyard 2015 Estate Grown Nina Lee Syrah Walla Walla Valley $50 89 points
The aromas are brooding, with notes of coffee bean, blackberry and spice. The palate is full bodied with a rich feel.

Spring Valley Vineyard 2015 Frederick Estate Grown Walla Walla Valley $50 88 points
This wine is a blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 8% Malbec. The aromas are generous, with notes of braised green pepper, fresh herb, cherry and flower, with the palate showing more of the same. It comes off as pretty green and a bit dried out. Drink now.

Starside 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $23 87 points
Bittersweet chocolate, dried herb, tar and cherry aromas are at the fore. The palate brings leafy herb flavors, with plenty of fresh cherries alongside them.

Stevens 2015 BlackTongue Syrah Yakima Valley $32 88 points
Not fully resolved orange-peel, bacon-fat, mineral and herb aromas lead to quite elegantly styled fruit flavors. There are some interesting things going on but they don’t all come together.

Stevens 2015 StevensTimley Malbec Yakima Valley $32 88 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from the Dineen (70%) and Sheridan vineyards. Beguiling aromas of black plum, tar, clove, cigar box, dried orange peel, spice and whiffs of game are followed by elegant, slightly tangy fruit flavors backed by lightly grainy tannins.

Stevens 2015 StevensFranc Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $32 87 points
High-toned aromas of green herb, fresh flower, green pepper and cherry are followed by a mixture of lightly styled fruit and herb flavors that bring a lightly tacky feel. Floral notes persist on the finish.

Stevens 2015 Stevens424 Yakima Valley $36 87 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (44%) is the highest percentage in this blend, followed by Cabernet Franc (28%), Merlot (22%) and Malbec. Aromas of green herb, dried red and black fruit, ash, dried orange peel and herb are followed by tangy medicine-cabinet flavors backed by dry tannins with a pleasant lick of acidity. It seems a bit dried out.

Stevens 2015 Merlot Yakima Valley $32 86 points
Aromas of Band-Aid, dried cherry and dried orange peel are followed by Fruit Roll-Ups flavors. It all seems dried out.

Substance 2016 Cs Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $15 90 points
The aromas are compelling, with notes of fresh herb, black currant, black raspberry and black cherry, showing a pleasing sense of purity. The flavors are soft and pure, with sleek black-fruit notes lingering on the finish. Firm tannins back it up. It’s a fruitful expression of the variety and a superb value. Drink now. Best Buy

Syncline 2017 Boushey Vineyard Picpoul Yakima Valley $25 91 points
Aromas of lemon pith, citrus rind, wet stone and sweet herb lead to an elegantly styled palate backed by a blast of tart lemony acidity. It requires food alongside it to be properly appreciated. Shellfish should fit the bill. Editor's Choice

Syncline 2017 Bloxom Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Columbia Valley $24 90 points
This is one of a handful of offerings of this variety in the state. A new vineyard for this wine, aromas of lemon zest, lentil, talc and herb lead to zingy, drawn-out citrus-rind flavors that persist on the finish. Pair it with halibut with a lemon caper beurre blanc sauce. Editor's Choice

Syncline 2016 Mourvèdre Horse Heaven Hills $35 90 points
A blend of fruit from Alder Ridge (58%) and Coyote Canyon vineyards, this lightly colored wine brings aromas of black raspberry, cherry gummy, garrigue and black pepper. The palate is light, piercingly pure and flavorful, with a fruit-filled finish. It shows a lot of elegance.

Syncline 2017 Boushey Vineyard Grenache Blanc Yakima Valley $30 89 points
Aromas of white peach, flower blossom, lemon verbena and sweet herb are followed by light elegant fruit flavors. Citrus notes linger on the racy finish.

Syncline 2016 Carignan-Grenache Horse Heaven Hills $30 89 points
Carignan makes up 62% of this wine, with the balance Grenache, and all of the fruit comes from the McKinely Springs and Alder Ridge vineyards. Light in color, aromas of raspberry candy, kirsch, flower and herb are followed by elegantly styled fruit flavors that bring a sense of delicacy.

Syncline 2017 Rosé Horse Heaven Hills $24 88 points
This wine is a blend of 40% Mourvèdre, 33% Grenache and 27% Cinsault. Pale peach in color, the aromas offer subdued notes of herb, cherry and spice. The flavors are lighter in style, tapering toward the finish. It shows a lot of delicacy.

Tenet 2016 Syrah Columbia Valley $25 90 points
Pinches of Grenache (4%), Mourvèdre (4%) and Viognier (2%) round out this wine, providing lovely accents. The aromas show notes of flower, orange peel, raspberry candy, dried herb and cherry. The palate is full bodied and rich, with the tannins bringing some grip. Raspberry notes linger on the finish.

The Walls 2015 The Ramparts Red Mountain $44 90 points
This wine is 52% Grenache, 32% Mourvèdre, 13% Counoise and 3% Syrah. The aromas are reserved, with notes of stem, black pepper, raspberry, blueberry and cranberry. The palate is full but light and elegant, especially for the appellation, with a persistent finish.

The Walls 2015 Curiositas Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $56 90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Obelisco Vineyard. The aromas are quite light on first pour, showing faint notes of cherry and spice, seeming ever so slightly dried out. In contrast, the palate is lush and full, packed to the brim with cherry flavors backed by exquisitely integrated tannins.

The Walls 2016 Concrete Mama Grenache Walla Walla Valley $74 89 points
The name comes from the concrete tanks used to ferment the wine, with the fruit coming from River Rock Vineyard in the Rocks District. Quite pale in color, initially subdued aromas of raspberry candy, tangerine peel and herb are followed by soft palate-coating red-fruit flavors. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery.

The Walls 2015 Stanley Groovy Red Blend Red Mountain $38 88 points
A blend of Portuguese varieties, the aromas explode, with notes of mountain blueberry, huckleberry, orange peel, fresh tobacco, herb and spice. The palate shows an elegant styling, with orange-peel notes lingering on the finish. One wants more concentration but what’s there is riveting.

The Walls 2016 Martin’s Gold French Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley $36 88 points
Nuanced aromas of corn silk, peach and cream lead to lighter styled but nicely balanced fruit flavors. There are a lot of good things going on but the concentration seems quite light.

The Walls 2016 Lip Stinger French Creek Vineyard Grenache Blanc Columbia Valley $38 86 points
This wine includes 18% Roussanne, 3% Marsanne, 2% Viognier and 1% Picpoul. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of lees, lemon peel, herb, vanilla and barrel spice (aged in 75% new puncheons). The palate can’t deliver on the promise, seeming quite light, with the concentration of the fruit not able to stand up to the barrel influence.

Three Rivers 2015 Malbec Columbia Valley $30 88 points
Aromas of red plum, clove, barrel spice and dried herb lead to soft lighter-styled fruit flavors, with the tannins bringing a lightly chalky feel. There’s a pleasing snap on the finish.

Three Rivers 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $39 88 points
Almost all of the fruit for this wine comes from esteemed Seven Hills Vineyard. The aromas are fruit forward, suggesting notes of blackberry, cassis, herb and dark coffee. The palate paints around the edges, with the tannins giving a slightly dry squeeze.

Three Rivers 2014 Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $39 87 pointsBacchus Vineyard is home to some of the state’s oldest Cabernet vines. There’s no mistaking the variety, with its aromas of fresh herb, black currant, blackberry and barrel spice. The palate is lighter on fruit yet heavy in structure, with the tannins giving a firm grip.

Three Rivers 2016 Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley $35 87 points
The aromas command attention, with notes of corn silk, clarified butter, lees and white peach. The palate is medium bodied, with a lightly creamy feel. There are good things going on but the concentration seems a bit light.

Three Rivers 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $18 87 points
Lighter-styled aromas of herb, lemon zest and fig are followed by medium-bodied fruit flavors. A melon note lingers on the finish.

Three Rivers 2017 Riesling Columbia Valley $18 86 points
Aromas of apricot, lime leaf, herb and gasoline lead to sweet fruit flavors. It’s a straightforward easy drinker.

Three Rivers 2014 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $39 85 pointsNot entirely appealing aromas of tire rubber, red apple and cherry lead to an astringent feeling palate. Bitter tannins cap it off.

Three Rivers 2014 Svelte Columbia Valley $50 85 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) and Merlot (22%) make up most of this wine, with the balance Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Cherry, baking-spice, red-apple and herb aromas are followed by lighter styled fruit flavors. The concentration doesn’t seem all there.

Three Rivers 2016 Trivulet Red Blend Columbia Valley $38 85 points
In this blend of Cabernet Franc (51%) and Merlot, aromas of flower, blueberry pie, currant and green pepper lead to elegantly styled green-pepper flavors, with a squeeze of tannin at the end. The concentration seems quite dilute.

Time & Direction 2016 Old School Solaksen Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley $40 91 points
This is the inaugural release from this winery, with the fruit coming from an up-and-coming site on the Royal Slope. Blended with 5% Viognier, the aromas are perfumed, drawing you into the glass with notes of freshly peeled tangerine, flower, braised meat, bacon, blueberry, olive and smoke. The fruit flavors bring a pleasing sense of purity. It’s a promising start.

Time & Direction 2017 Fretboard Columbia Valley $20 87 points
This wine is 60% Roussanne and 40% Viognier. After starting out quite reduced, it opens to reveal notes of melon, pencil eraser and citrus. The lemony flavors are sleek and acid driven.

Townshend NV Purple Red Blend Columbia Valley $10 83 points
The aromas seem dried out, with notes of dried tobacco, Band-Aid and dried cherry. The concentration is quite light and not able to pull it all together.

Townshend NV Red Blend Columbia Valley $10 82 points
Lighter-styled aromas of tobacco, dried cherry, Band-Aid and medicine cabinet lead to light, dried-out-seeming fruit flavors, with medicinal notes lingering on the finish. It doesn’t all work.

Upchurch 2015 Counterpart Red Mountain $50 92 points
This is the inaugural release of this wine, a blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon from the winery’s estate vineyard. The aromas are effusive, with notes of cherry meats, black raspberry, mineral, blackberry bramble and plentiful barrel spice. The flavors are rich and layered with firm tannins and a bright lick of acidity. It impresses. Give it a good 10 years in bottle or a long decant. Cellar Selection

Upchurch 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $75 91 points
The aromas offer appealing notes of dried and fresh herbs along with cherry and dried orange rind and scorched earth. The palate is packed full of rich fruit flavors surrounded by firm, slightly dry tannins and tart acids. The flavors stretch out on the finish. It has enough structure to go the distance.

Upchurch 2016 Southwest Facing Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley $36 90 points
The inaugural release of this wine was fermented and aged sur lie for 18 months in a concrete egg. Aromas of pineapple, kiwi, citrus, lees, straw and herb are followed by lighter-styled but still creamy-feeling fruit flavors that lead to a warm fruit-filled finish.

Vino 2017 Sangiovese Rosé Washington $12 87 points
Watermelon, watermelon-rind and herb aromas are followed by dry, broad but still lighter-styled fruit flavors. It’s straight down the fairway. Best Buy

Vino La Monarcha 2015 Sangiovese Wahluke Slope $20 88 points
The aromas bring appeal, with notes of cherry and spice. The palate is plush with fruit flavors, with the tannins giving a (quite) dry squeeze. A warm finish caps it off.

Vino La Monarcha 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Ancient Lakes $18 87 points
Bright aromas of honeydew melon, Asian pear and herb lead to tart, spritzy, lighter-styled fruit flavors. The concentration seems light, but what’s there is good.

Vino La Monarcha 2017 Pinot Noir Rosé Ancient Lakes $20 86 points
Pale-salmon colored, aromas of strawberry Jolly Rancher, watermelon and cherry lead to off-dry lightly spritzy fruit flavors that tingle the palate.

Waterbrook 2015 Reserve Malbec Columbia Valley $30 86 points
The aromas show notes of fresh herb, plum, spice and orange peel. The flavors are light and sleek, not showing the variety’s more generous side but still providing interest.

Waterbrook 2015 Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley $30 86 points
Aromas of barrel spice, red apple and cherry are followed by nicely textured fruit flavors. The tannins bring a lot of grit and grip.

Waterbrook 2016 Mélange Founders Red Blend Columbia Valley $13 86 points
Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah make up this wine. Lighter in color, the aromas suggest fresh raspberry, berry and currant. The palate shows an elegant styling, with citrus notes on the finish. There are good things going on but the concentration seems light.

Watermill 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley (OR) $35 88 points
This young wine is an unusual offering of the variety, with aromas of cranberry, black raspberry, herb and fruit leather. The cranberry and cherry flavors are tart, with a grip of tannin, coffee and barrel spice on the finish.

Watermill 2016 Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley (OR) $35 87 points
The aromas bring appeal, with notes of flower, green herb, fresh tobacco, green herb, vanilla and cherry. The palate mixes fruit and barrel, with cherry flavors intermingled with sweet barrel and baking-spice accents. The concentration seems a bit light.

Watermill 2016 Chances R Chardonnay Columbia Valley (OR) $15 86 points
The aromas bring notes of roasted corn on the cob along with peach. The flavors come off as lightly sweet, with pineapple on the finish.

Watermill 2016 Merlot Walla Walla Valley (OR) $30 86 points
Dark raspberry, milk chocolate and coffee aromas lead to lightly sweet-seeming fruit flavors. Smoky notes linger on the finish. It doesn’t seem to have fully settled in, and the concentration seems a bit light.

Watermill 2016 Carmenère Walla Walla Valley (OR) $30 85 points
Raspberry, jalapeño pepper and red-currant aromas are followed by lighter styled fruit flavors. The concentration is quite light.

Watermill 2016 Chances R Columbia Valley (OR) $15 84 points
Aromas of tire rubber, green olive and cherry lead to lighter styled raspberry flavors. The concentration seems quite light, with herb and sweet barrel notes on the finish.

William Weaver 2017 Rosé Columbia Valley $14 87 points
Salmon-pink colored, the aromas of this wine offer notes of strawberry bubblegum, cherry, citrus and herb. The watermelon and berry flavors are light and airy on the palate.

Woodward Canyon 2014 Estate Reserve Walla Walla Valley $89 91 points
Coming from the winery’s finest lots at Woodward Canyon Vineyard, this wine is a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot and 11% Petit Verdot. Locked-up aromas of toast, blackberry, huckleberry, tar and flower are followed by elegant palate-coating herb and cherry flavors. It’s a very pretty, very understated wine.

Woodward Canyon 2014 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $49 90 points
The aromas are reduced out of the gate, followed by notes of tar, blackberry, olive, anise and barrel spice. The earth and black-currant flavors glide and lead to a warm finish. Give it time in the cellar or an extended decant.

Woodward Canyon 2014 Charbonneau Walla Walla County $79 90 points
This blend contains 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc and 12% Petit Verdot. The aromas are a bit reduced out of the gate, opening up to reveal notes of blackberry, tar, graphite, tobacco, cherry and licorice. The palate brings lighter-styled black-currant flavors that linger on the finish. Give it time to open.