The red state of Washington wine

If we go back to the beginning of Washington’s modern day wine industry, the state was believed to be too cool to successfully grow many red grape varieties. Indeed, it is for this reason, that cooler climate offerings like Riesling became so prominent in the state. However, with Washington now producing an abundance of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and numerous other red varieties, it’s clear the state is very much capable of growing top quality red wine grapes.

While over time, red grape production has grown larger and larger, white varieties, led by Riesling and Chardonnay, still continued to pace production. Then in 2012, red production for the first time pulled ahead of white production, by a scant 1,000 tons out of 188,000 tons harvested. That gap widened to 34,000 tons in 2017, with red varieties now making up 57.5% of production. Though there’s the caveat that white production was down in 2017, Washington’s grape production, led by Cabernet Sauvignon, is becoming more and more red.

The numbers are even more tilted looking at wines I sampled in 2017. A full 75.25% of those wines were red wines (21.54% were whites; 3.21% were rosés out of 1,588 wines sampled). What this indicates to me, which squares with my experience, is that, while the state produces an abundance of white wines, the bulk of those wines in terms of production come from larger producers. That is to say, there are fewer individual offerings of white wines, but some of them are made in higher volume.

What does all this mean? It means that Washington has squarely become red wine country. Don’t get me wrong, white varieties can very much succeed here, and I taste numerous high quality white wines from Washington each year. But red wine is increasingly where the action is. And the state is only going to get redder in the years to come.

2017 Growing Season Report: Summer smoke and September cooldown contribute to high quality in Washington

2017 was another warm vintage in Washington, though it certainly didn’t start out that way. Winter into early spring was cool and wet, with well above average snowfall in eastern Washington.

“Snow was on the ground for nearly two months,” said grower Dick Boushey of Boushey Vineyards in Yakima Valley. Boushey also manages properties on Red Mountain. “Everyone was behind from the beginning because you couldn’t get into the field.”

To some, it looked like perhaps a cool vintage was on the way. “In April and even early May, we thought we might have another 2011 on our hands,” said Bob Betz, who consults for Betz Family Winery and Col Solare.

The cool weather delayed early markers of the growing season. “We ended up having a very late bud break,” said grower Mike Sauer of Red Willow Vineyard in Yakima Valley. Sauer noted it occurred around April 25^th, ten days to two weeks later than historical averages.

“Bud break and bloom were really pushed back,” agreed grower Will Beightol of Double Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills.

Growing Degree Days (GDD), a measure of heat accumulation, from May 12^th at Red Willow Vineyard show what this cool start looked like (and just how outrageously warm 2016 started).

Table 1: May 12^th GDDs Red Willow Vineyard

Year                 GDD
2017               130
2016                392
2015                207
2014                200
2011                50
2010                107

Increased canopy management and powdery mildew pressure

The additional winter moisture led to increased canopy management efforts. “We went into the spring with full moisture capacity,” said Boushey. “That stimulated a lot of growth and vigor. People were doing a lot of shoot thinning and suckering.”

The moisture also contributed to significant powdery mildew pressure, the most the state has experienced since the cool 2011 vintage. “There was a lot of winter moisture so the canopy was pretty big,” said Sauer. “It was an ideal scenario to develop mildew.”

In some sites, it became a serious problem. “There were some places where it got out of control,” said Marty Clubb, co-owner and managing winemaker at L’Ecole No. 41, which sources fruit from Walla Walla Valley and throughout the Columbia Valley. However, Clubb noted there was no impact on the final wines. “We were able to work hard enough to drop, bypass, or avoid picking in certain areas such that mildew for us was an absolute non-issue at the end of the day.”

However, it was an issue at some larger sites, where economic factors came into play. “If you’re a production vineyard and you get a big dose of mildew, what you need to do is send a hand crew through to drop that,” Boushey explained. “Some people said, ‘I can’t afford to do that or I can’t find people to do it.’ So you just kind of walk away from it.”

“You heard of entire vineyards not being harvested because of mildew in clusters,” said Beightol.

“It cost everyone one way or another,” said Kent Waliser of Sagemoor Vineyards in the Columbia Valley.

Winter cold weather events affect certain areas, varieties

Three low temperature episodes in December and January also affected certain areas, such as the Rocks District, as well as sensitive varieties, particularly Merlot. “There was some trunk damage in a lot of places,” Boushey said. “You didn’t have quite the clusters per bud. The whole crop was quite a bit less.”

The Rocks District in Walla Walla Valley was particularly affected by winter damage. “We got hit pretty hard even with the fans moving around,” said Chad Johnson of Dusted Valley, which is part owner of Stoney Vine Vineyard. “For a good percentage of the Syrah down there, we got about half a ton per acre. We’d normally do about three and a half tons.”

Together the winter events and powdery mildew issues contributed to lower grape tonnage in 2017. “Across the board, crop sizes were down,” said Beightol. “Whereas 2016 was 120% of what we thought we were going to see, on the Cabernet side in particular, [in 2017] we were 85-90% of what we thought we would be seeing in the vineyard.”

However, due to the bumper 2017 crop, few were concerned. “Wineries weren’t complaining about getting less fruit,” said Waliser. “They were happy to be 5-10% under.”

Summer temperatures return to normal then warm up

Whereas spring was cool, early summer temperatures aligned with historical averages and then mid to late summer temperatures were above average. This allowed heat accumulation to catch up from the slow start and move ahead of long term averages. This is reflected in the GDD numbers below from Red Willow Vineyard on July 1^st as well as the vineyard’s final GDD numbers, which reflect a warm season.

Table 2: July 1^st Growing Degree Days at Red Willow Vineyard

Year                 GDDs
2017                1751
2016                1933
2015                2103
2014                1854
2013                1871
2012                1603
2011                1134
2010                1371

Table 3: End of season GDDs at Red Willow

Year                 GDDs
2017                3165
2016                3203
2012                3075
LT Average      2928

“This was a very, very cool year to start with and we never fully caught up, even though the heat units would say this was actually a pretty warm year after all,” noted Sauer. “The timing of the heat has a lot to do with it.”

Veraison began in the third week of July. Harvest started the third week of August for rosés and sparkling wines and began at the end of the first week of September for red varieties. Betz noted that for Betz Family Winery, which only works with red grapes, harvest began on September 12^th, compared to August 24^th the year before. The winery finished picking on October 24^th, though some growers continued picking well into the first week of November.   

Summer smoke and September cooldown defining events

There were two significant smoke events in eastern Washington in 2017. The first was in August from Canadian forest fires. The second was in early September, during the beginning of harvest, from Cascade and Columbia Gorge fires. Smoke from these generally distant fires hung in the air for a series of days each time before clearing. While it brought concerns of potential smoke taint, in the end most felt the smoke, counterintuitively, had a positive effect on the vintage, in part by lowering above average forecast temperatures.

“Even though you’d look at the weather and it would say it was going to be 98, it was 88,” said Trey Busch, winemaker and co-owner at Sleight of Hand Cellars.

“The smoke did two things,” said Clubb. “First, it significantly moderated the heat, which was a good thing. Two, you might think of it as a gigantic sun filter. It really slowed photosynthesis in the fruit.”

Once the smoked cleared, temperatures cooled down markedly for the remainder of the month, which significantly slowed development. "If you tracked your sugar, acid, pH, we saw very little progress,” said Clubb. “There was a two or three-week period where the fruit was not moving that much.”

“Everything just stalled,” agreed Johnson. “We had 10 days where we didn’t bring any red fruit in. We just stopped.” This allowed growers and winemakers to harvest at a more leisurely pace. “We never really felt hurried like we have in the past three or four vintages,” Busch said.

The cooler temperatures also slowed sugar accumulation. Acids held. “If you’re in 95-degree weather, you expect a brick a day possibly,” said Clubb. “We were seeing a brick a week, maybe not even that. That essentially gave you much longer hang time, which usually means bigger color development and better wines.”

“It allowed for some amazing hang time,” Waliser said of the September cool down. “I think it will really show on some of the whites that will come out with better balance than some years that we’ve had.”

In a switch from recent warm vintages, winemakers had to wait for acids to drop before picking instead of harvesting because of spiking sugars. The end result was higher acidity than recent years. “We had higher natural acidity across the board,” said Clubb.

While most felt the smoke ironically had a positive effect on the vintage, it was certainly a cautionary tale. “It’s not something you want to have every year,” Boushey said. “We were on the ragged edge of potentially having a lot of smoke taint issues. If it hadn’t have cleared out when it did, I think it might have had a big effect.”

“I’m not sure I want to throw those dice every year,” agreed Betz. Thus far, there have been few reported incidences of smoke taint, with most coming from vineyards in immediate proximity to the fires.

High quality wines to come

While many said between the cool start, powdery mildew issues, and smoke it was a somewhat stressful year (when isn’t it in agriculture?), overall growers and winemakers were extremely pleased with the end results.

“Ultimately, I think we picked some of the best fruit we have in a long time in terms of balance,” said Boushey.

“Everything we have in the cellar is either really good or really, really good,” Clubb said. “Whites in particular are amazing. It’s a blockbuster white year.”

“The whites are beautiful,” agreed Busch, who also noted that the higher acidities give the wines a sense of freshness. “We haven’t seen acid numbers like that since 2010. I think we’ll have lower alcohol levels than we have in the past few years but not lacking depth or structure or weight.”

“Everything is very fresh with natural acidity,” said Johnson. “I love the tannin profile, even silkier than last year. I wish I could put my finger on it and repeat it.”

“The wines I’ve gone through from 2017 have a nice fleshiness to them,” Betz said. “Coming off the ‘16s, I think we’re seeing a little more flesh, a little more muscle on the shoulder for the 2017s, and that’s a good thing.”

The first whites and rosés from the 2017 vintage are just being released, so you can decide for yourself!

NB: Interviews for this article were conducted in December 2017.
All pictures by Richard Duval.

Wine Enthusiast Reviews for April 2018

Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for April 2018. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read additional information on how I review wines here. All of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide. There is also a freely available Wine Enthusiast Tasting Guide app. See previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast's on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.

79 wines reviewed in the April issue. Avennia continues to lead the way with Sauvignon Blanc in the state with a stellar 2016 offering (Avennia 2016 Oliane Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley $28, 92 points).

Winemaker Mari Womack of Damsel Cellars delivers a knock out with the Damsel 2015 The Fates Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley ($36, 93 points).

New Woodinville winery Descendant Cellars has a fascinating set of releases (Descendant 2014 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $33, 91 points; Descendant 2013 Belle G-S-M Columbia Valley $33, 91 points; Descendant 2013 Grenache Columbia Valley $30, 90 points). The wines saw no new oak and bring a lot of freshness.

EFESTE’s first designated wine from its Taylor Mag Vineyard on Red Mountain delivers a lot of value (Efeste 2014 Taylor Mag Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $28 91 points). There are many high quality wines to be had across the lineup of new and upcoming releases.

Issaquah-based Estrin Estates brings a whole lot of quality and value with a number of its wines, including Estrin 2012 Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope ($20, 90 points); Estrin 2014 Tre Aris Red Blend Columbia Valley ($25, 90 points); and Estrin 2013 Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope ($20, 90 points).

Gård Vintners’ Lawrence Vineyards (a collection of sites) is showing itself to be a special location for Syrah and Rhone-style blends (Gård 2015 Reverence Columbia Valley $50, 92 points). I’m honestly surprised more winemakers aren’t exploring Royal Slope Syrah. Between the Charles Smith Royal City and the Gård offerings among others, it’s very clear there is something special there.

Speaking of Rhône-blends, Kerloo Cellars brings it with their Kerloo 2015 Majestic Columbia Valley ($36, 92 points). The winery also has a dreamy Syrah from Upland Vineyard (Kerloo 2015 Limited Release Upland Vineyard Syrah Snipes Mountain $40, 93 points).

In the Rocks District, Proper Wines continues to make standouts priced below many of their peers (Proper 2015 Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley $48, 93 points).

Don’t miss the Two Vintners 2015 Make Haste Cinsault Yakima Valley ($21, 92 points). It’s rare to be able to taste a 100% varietal Cinsault from Washington let alone one this high quality at that price. The Two Vintners 2015 Claire Boushey Vineyard Grenache Yakima Valley ($40, 93 points) is also a stunner.

On the value side, check out the Charles & Charles Riesling and Chardonnay.

* * *

51 Weeks 2016 Lonesome Springs Cuvée White Blend Columbia Valley $19 88 points
This wine is 60% Marsanne and 40% Viognier. Aromas are light, with notes of lime leaf, marzipan and white flower. It drinks dry, with stone fruit flavors throughout, and finishes a bit short.

Avennia 2016 Oliane Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley $28 92 points
This 100% varietal wine is a blend of top sites: Boushey (55%) and Red Willow, with just a kiss (5%) of new French oak. The aromas are intriguing, with notes of white grapefruit, nectarine, lemon pith, straw, mineral and herb. Flavors are sleek and puckering, with a steely spine of acidity that keeps the interest high. It only gets better with time open and should sing at the dinner table. Editor's Choice

Barons 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $18 90 points
Though not labeled as such, all of this fruit comes from Rosebud Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. Blended with 16% Sémillon, which shows itself, the aromas are light, with notes of citrus, fig, pineapple, lees and herb. The flavors are broad and textured with an extended finish. It’s as much about feel as flavor.

Barons 2016 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $35 90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Block Two of Gamache Vineyard. Aged in a mixture of stainless steel and French oak (30% new), the aromas offer notes of hay, corn silk, lees and cut yellow apple along with peach. Flavors are broad and leesy, gliding on the finish.

Betz Family 2015 La Côte Rousse Syrah Red Mountain $60 91 points
Intriguing aromas of boysenberry syrup, plum, sweet herb and barrel spice lead to exquisitely balanced, somewhat elegantly styled fruit and savory flavors. It’s a very understated, very pretty expression of this warm vintage and growing region.

Betz Family 2015 La Serenne Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $60 92 points
Coming from one of the state’s top Syrah vineyards, this offers high-toned aromas of potpourri, red and blue fruit, sage, bacon fat, iron and spice. These lead to supple, restrained smoked meat and red-fruit flavors, stretching out on the finish. It brings a sense of elegance, taking some time to get going before strutting its stuff. Editor's Choice

Bledsoe 2015 Flying B Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $48 89 points
Coming from a hot vintage, the aromas bring notes of blackberry jam, coffee, fruit rollup, flower and herb. The tannins are quite firm, showing a bit of astringency out of the gate but settling down with some time open. Despite the warmth of the vintage, it brings a pleasing sense of acidity.

Bledsoe 2016 Elizabeth Chardonnay Walla Walla Valley $34 88 points
This is the winery’s first release of Chardonnay, an extreme rarity in this appellation. It comes from the upper Mill Creek area. Delicate, intriguing aromas of cut pear, yellow apple, straw, melon, candle wax and flower lead to full-feeling, lightly creamy banana and pineapple flavors.

Boomtown 2016 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $19 87 points
Aromas of creamed corn, spice and baked apple lead to light, pleasant fruit flavors in this straightforward wine.

Boomtown 2015 Syrah Columbia Valley $19 87 points
Aromas of dark fruit, smoked meat and herb lead to plentiful plum flavors that miss a bit in the middle. It comes up short on the finish but otherwise provides appeal.

Boomtown 2015 Merlot Columbia Valley $19 86 points
Aromas of red currant are bright and fresh, with little apparent new-oak influence. Raspberry and currant flavors bring more of the same. It’s a straightforward, easy drinker.

Boomtown 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $19 87 points
Fruit-forward aromas of black currant and plum lead to plump, easy-drinking fruit flavors. It’s straightforward, though it seems to lack concentration, especially in the middle.

Boomtown 2016 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley $19 87 points
Pleasing aromas of almond butter, lemon zest and kiwi lead to papaya, pineapple and other tropical-fruit flavors. It delivers immediate appeal.

Buty 2014 Rediviva of the Stones Rockgarden Estate Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $60 91 points
This wine is a unique blend of 77% Syrah, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Mourvèdre. Hailing from the Rocks District, it offers generous aromas of black olive, plum, wet gravel, crushed flower, green olive, smoked meat, parsley and dried herb. These lead to pure, ample fruit and savory flavors. A taste of smoked meat lingers on the finish.

Buty 2015 Conner Lee Vineyard Merlot-Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $45 90 points
This wine leans into the savory, with aromas of sliced green pepper along with assorted fresh herbs, flowers and macerated cherry. The palate is soft in style, filled with sleek, minerally cherry flavors. It brings a sense of freshness, purity and elegance.

Buty 2014 Columbia Rediviva Phinny Hill Vineyard Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $50 91 points
Coming from an up-and-coming vineyard, this wine is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah. It’s aromatically expressive, with notes of ripe black cherry, plum, licorice and high-toned dried herbs. The palate is dense and layered, showing breadth and richness while staying in balance. Drink in the near term.

Canoe Ridge 2016 The Expedition Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $16 87 points
This wine is mostly Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Aromas of blueberry pie and huckleberry pop, showing grace notes of barrel spice and herb. The flavors are lighter in style, losing concentration in the middle and seeming watery, and never come back together.

Charles & Charles 2016 Riesling Washington $15 89 points
Generous aromas of lime leaf, white peach, flower and slate lead to off-dry green-apple flavors backed by zippy acidity. The lovely sense of balance keeps you coming back for more.

Charles & Charles 2016 Chardonnay Washington $15 87 points
This wine’s aromas include notes of yellow apple, melon and lees. The palate brings a rounded feel, showing little apparent new-oak influence. It’s a straightforward, varietally correct wine.

Damsel 2015 The Fates Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley $36 93 points
This wine is equal parts Grenache and Mourvèdre (co-fermented), finished off with Syrah and aged in neutral French-oak puncheons. The aromas are fascinating, with notes of fresh savory herbs, capers, sea salt, white pepper, bacon fat and mixed fruit. The flavors are plump and appealing, mixing fruity and savory tones that lead to a pepper and olive finish. It’s a standout interpretation of this vineyard. Editor's Choice

Descendant 2014 Syrah Red Mountain $33 88 points
Aged in older French oak, with a third whole-cluster, this offers aromas of peeled apple skin, black raspberry and black licorice that lead to palate-coating black-fruit flavors that drop off on the finish. There’s no mistaking the warm vintage and warm region it comes from.

Descendant 2014 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $33 91 points
From one of the state’s top Syrah vineyards, this offers aromas of dried and fresh herb, violet and black cherry that lead to full-bodied, extremely pure dark-fruit flavors. Aged in three- to five-year old-oak, it has a purity and mouthfeel that add to the appeal. It should show well on the dinner table. Editor's Choice

Descendant 2013 Belle G-S-M Columbia Valley $33 91 points
This wine is 58% Grenache, 26% Syrah and 16% Mourvèdre. Aromas are a little funky out of the gate but open to reveal notes of savory herb, brown stem, smoked meat, black licorice, raspberry and blackberry. The cherry-gummy flavors are pure and fresh, with a lovely mouthfeel. Black-raspberry flavors linger on the finish. All about purity, it impresses. Editor's Choice

Descendant 2013 Mourvèdre Red Mountain $33 89 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of dark raspberry, red and black licorice, herb and cherry gummy. Aged in neutral oak, it has a palate that emphasizes purity of expression. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. Drink now.

Descendant 2013 Grenache Columbia Valley $30 90 points
An extremely pale, orange-tinged color belies an aromatically expressive wine, with appealing notes of white pepper, wild raspberry and herb. The palate is sumptuous yet light in feel, with achingly pure fruit flavors. This wine is all about elegance—perhaps too much for some tastes. But for those seeking the variety’s delicate side, look no further. Drink now.

Drink Washington State 2015 Welcome to Columbia Valley Chardonnay Columbia Valley $19 87 points
Bright, pleasant aromas of yellow apple, pear and papaya lead to a palate chock full of tropical-fruit flavors. It finishes a little tangy.

Dusted Valley 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $42 90 points
Aromas are pitch black, with notes of blackberry, black cherry, vanilla and anise, showing the warmth of the vintage. The palate is rich and ripe, packing a big punch of dark-fruit flavors.

Efeste 2014 Taylor Mag Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $28 91 points
This is the winery’s first release off its Taylor Mag Vineyard. Aromas don’t reveal their charms on first pour, with notes of café au lait, cherry, raspberry, woodspice and herb. The palate brings firm, brawny tannins along with plentiful cherry flavors. Cocoa notes linger on the finish. It’s everything you expect from a Cabernet, at a price below many wines from this appellation. Editor's Choice

Efeste 2014 Oldfield Estate Syrah Yakima Valley $65 91 points
This is the winery’s first red release from this site, located next to famed Boushey Vineyard. Aromas of iron, bacon fat, brown spice and herb rise up from the glass. The palate bursts with red-fruit flavors that show a pleasing sense of intensity, depth and length. It’s a promising start for this site.

Efeste 2015 Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $44 92 points
Coming from one of the state’s premier Syrah vineyards, the aromas pop, with notes of boysenberry, bacon fat, orange peel, herb and spice. The palate is dense and rich, packed with ultraripe blue- and black-fruit flavors. It delivers a lot of hedonistic appeal. For those looking for a big, bold, warm vintage Syrah, this one’s for you. Editor's Choice

Efeste 2014 Final-Final Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah Columbia Valley $30 91 points
Aromas of baking spice, blackberry and cherry draw you into the glass. The palate is chock full of cherry and dark-chocolate flavors, with the tannins giving a light squeeze. Editor's Choice

Efeste 2015 Eléni Red Willow Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $59 91 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the state’s original Syrah vineyard. Expressive aromas of dried herb, dark raspberry, huckleberry, spice and licorice lead to ripe, full fruit flavors that glide on the finish. It’s not shy, bringing a lot of richness and appeal.

Efeste 2015 Lola Evergreen Vineyard Chardonnay Ancient Lakes $35 91 points
The aromas pop, with notes of clarified butter, pineapple, candlewax, corn silk, apricot and mango. The palate is full of stone and tropical fruit flavors that bring a big yum factor. Aromas and flavors are ripe, like the vintage this wine comes from. Editor's Choice

Efeste 2014 Big Papa Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $NA 92 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from Klipsun, Kiona, Bacchus, Red Willow and Sagemoor vineyards. Aged in half-new French oak, it offers aromas of dried leaf, cocoa, cigar box and barrel spice that lead to focused, slightly compact cherry flavors. Firm, tightly wound tannins provide support. It needs time in the cellar to stretch its legs, and will be best after 2021.

Efeste 2014 Nana Willow Vineyard Yakima Valley $44 92 points
This wine is a blend of Merlot (61%) and Cabernet Franc. High-toned aromas of black raspberry, plum, black licorice, herb and barrel spice lead to plush, plentiful red- and black-fruit flavors. It brings a very pretty sense of styling along with a lengthy finish. Give it some time to open up.

Efeste 2014 Upright Klipsun Vineyards Merlot Red Mountain $39 90 points
Aromas of dried herb, dark cherry, black raspberry and barrel spice are at the fore on this 100% varietal wine. They lead to sleek cherry and cranberry flavors that provide intrigue.

Efeste 2015 Emmy Stone Tree Vineyard Mourvèdre Wahluke Slope $54 92 points
Aged in neutral French oak, this has aromas that start out brooding but intriguing, with notes of raw meat, mineral, dried herb, crushed flower and huckleberry. The palate is earth-shaking in its richness and intensity, coating the palate with waves of fruit flavors. It hits the gong hard but maintains a lovely sense of balance.

Eleven 2016 Sugarloaf Vineyard Pinot Grigio Yakima Valley $15 85 points
Aromas of soda water, peach and melon lead to broad, dry, slightly viscous fruit flavors. It’s an unusual interpretation of this variety.

Estrin 2012 Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope $20 90 points
This is mostly Riverbend Vineyard fruit topped off with Red Mountain Vineyard Merlot (7%). Herb, cranberry and cherry aromas are followed by rich, full-bodied black-fruit flavors. It brings richness and intensity but stays in balance.

Estrin 2014 Tre Aris Red Blend Columbia Valley $25 90 points
Syrah (53%) takes the lead on this blend, followed by Merlot (27%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of toast, anise, vanillin and cherry lead to rich, full-bodied cherry and cranberry flavors that coat the palate.

Estrin 2013 Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope $20 90 points
Coming mostly from esteemed Riverbend Vineyard, this wine saw just 10% new French oak, putting the focus on the fruit. High-toned aromas of dried flower, herb, cherry, vanilla and dried cranberry lead to a full, flavorful palate packed to the brim with dark fruit. Cranberry flavors linger on the finish.

Estrin 2014 Big Tree Columbia Valley $15 89 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (59%) and Syrah (33%) make up the majority of this wine, which is finished off with Merlot. Aromas of woodspice, herb, licorice and cherry lead to full-bodied cherry and cranberry flavors. It shows focus and intensity.

Eternal 2015 Eternal Gratitude Gamache Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley $50 88 points
Aromas seem unsettled, with notes of dust, herb and cherry. The flavors are plush and ripe, delivering plenty of enjoyment.

Eternal 2016 Eternal Sunshine Morrison Lane Vineyard Viognier Walla Walla Valley $35 87 points
Unusual aromas of watermelon Jolly Rancher, lime zest and white flower are followed by light flower and peach flavors that finish tart. It doesn’t all come together.

Gård 2014 Ice Wine Riesling Columbia Valley $60 92 points
This wine erupts from the glass, with aromas of brown sugar, candied pineapple, dried orange rind and flower. Flavors are viscous, intense and rich, with a mango-filled finish that sails. It’s the perfect end to any evening.

Gård 2015 Reverence Columbia Valley $50 92 points
This wine is a blend of 49% Syrah, 38% Grenache and a whopping 13% Viognier, with the latter expressing itself on both the aromas and palate. The wine pops, with notes of freshly peeled orange, stargazer lilly, gravel, olive, smoked meat, blueberry and boysenberry. Soft and sumptuous, the palate shows a lot of elegance and expression along with an extended finish. Editor's Choice

J & J NV 4 Boys 4th Release Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $19 86 points
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, this has aromas that bring notes of black licorice and cherry, along with light oxidative notes. It’s a shame, as good things are happening on the palate.

J & J 2014 Middleton Petty Vineyard Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $40 87 points
Aromas of cherry cough syrup and herb bring a light volatility. The black-cherry and licorice flavors are light and appealing but can’t make up the difference.

J & J 2015 Summit View Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $30 87 points
This vineyard sits high on the ridge crest of the SeVein project in the southern end of the valley. Aromas of herb, green tea and purple fruit are followed by tart, plump fruit flavors backed by tacky-feeling tannins.

J & J 2015 Summit View/Les Collines Vineyard Malbec Walla Walla Valley $29 88 points
Aromas lean into the green, with notes of savory garden herb along with dark raspberry and plum. The plum flavors are plump with a lightly scratchy feel to the tannins. There’s intrigue but it seems a bit underripe and leafy.

Kerloo 2015 Majestic Columbia Valley $36 92 points
Grenache (69%) takes the lead on this wine, followed by Mourvèdre (26%) and a pinch of Syrah. Aged in neutral French oak, it offers aromas that aren’t yet ready to reveal their charms on first pour. Notes of spice, herb and black pepper evolve into smoked meat and raspberry accents over time. The palate is swoon-worthy, with soft, supple fruit and savory flavors that lead to a persistent finish. The sense of purity dazzles. Editor's Choice

Kerloo 2015 Calling Club Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $48 91 points
This 100% varietal wine is a blend of fruit from top sites Klipsun (60%) and Dioynsus. Baking spice, herb, cocoa, tobacco, espresso and cherry aromas lead to suave, silky cherry and cocoa flavors. Like the vintage it came from, it holds nothing back. The oak (65% new French) is a bit up front at present but should integrate with additional time in bottle. Best after 2020.

Kerloo 2016 Limited Release Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Gorge $48 88 points
Aged in neutral French oak, this offers intriguing, slightly funky aromas of lemon verbena, green-apple skin and mineral that lead to sleek green- and red-apple flavors backed by racy acidity.

Kerloo 2015 Limited Release Upland Vineyard Syrah Snipes Mountain $40 93 points
Vineyard-designated wines from this appellation are rare, and this wine shows the promise of this site. There’s no mistaking the variety, with its enchanting aromas of fragrant flower, smoked meat, chopped parsley, green olive and purple fruit. Flavors are supremely fresh and bright, showing a mixture of fruit and savory, with assorted herb notes intertwined throughout. An extended finish, filled with notes of olive, caps it off. It’s beautiful on its own but should sing at the dinner table. Give it time to open up. Editor's Choice

Kitzke 2015 Barrel Select Field Blend Candy Ridge Vineyard Bordeaux-style Red Blend Columbia Valley $65 88 points
This wine blends Cabernet Sauvignon (41%), Cabernet Franc, (28%), Malbec (28%) and Petit Verdot. Smoke, woodspice and cedar aromas are in front of fresh-chopped herb, green pepper and black raspberry, with green-olive notes lurking in the background. The palate is light but juicy, with coffee and cherry flavors that bring a slight sense of astringency. Citric acidity lingers on the finish.

Maryhill 2016 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $16 86 points
Light aromas of white flower, lemon curd and spice are followed by sleek, light fruit flavors. It’s a straightforward, varietally correct wine.

Maryhill 2014 Merlot Columbia Valley $20 87 points
Aromas of mint, woodspice, raspberry and coffee are followed by ripe red-currant flavors. Soft, lightly grainy tannins provide support. It has good things going on and is varietally correct but seems a bit woody.

Maryhill 2016 Riesling Columbia Valley $14 87 points
Sweet herb, lime twist and peach aromas are followed by sleek, narrow citrus and stone-fruit flavors that drink off dry.

Maryhill 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $26 86 points
This wine comes off as a bit green out of the gate, with aromas of mortared fresh herb along with blueberry, woodspice and vanilla. Flavors are soft and light, concentrated in the middle but missing at the edges. The tannins bring a lightly gritty feel.

Oak Knoll NV Toasted Cow Vintners Blend 6th Edition Red Blend Columbia Valley $20 85 points
This wine is half Syrah with the rest equal parts Pinot Noir and Tempranillo. Aromas are locked up on first pour, only revealing high-toned notes of barrel spice. Over time, notes of candied raspberry, black licorice and dried cherry start to emerge. The palate brings plump red- and black-fruit flavors. Cranberry notes linger on the finish.

Proper 2015 Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley $48 93 points
Coming from the Rocks District, this offers expressive aromas of potpourri, fresh chopped parsley, orange peel, green olive, smoked meat, fresh flower and wet stone. These lead to plush, palate-coating fruit and savory flavors. Olive and charcuterie notes linger on the finish. Editor's Choice

Three of Cups 2014 Le Jugement Lonesomes Springs Vineyard Yakima Valley $29 88 points
Syrah makes up half of this wine, with the rest equal parts Grenache and Mourvèdre. Aromas of marionberry, herb, smoked meat and spice lead to a well-balanced palate that glides on the baking-spice-filled finish. The oak plays a bit prominently at times but overall it works.

Three of Cups 2016 White Blend Columbia Valley $16 85 points
This wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (61%), Sémillon (23%), Riesling (12%) and Albariño. The aromas are a bit faint, with notes of herb, fig, pear and soda water that don’t seem entirely in sync. The palate brings broad, dry flavors that come up short.

Three of Cups 2015 L’Astre Les Collines Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $30 88 points
Vibrant aromas of blue fruit, dried herb and potpourri lead to light, soft, tart fruit and barrel flavors. Blue-fruit flavors linger on the finish. It seems compact right now but good things are going on.

Twin Cedars 2014 Syrah Red Mountain $30 86 points
Aromas are light and dominated by barrel notes, including vanilla and coconut. The black-fruit flavors are sweet and rich, showing quite a bit of warmth. It doesn’t all add up.

Twin Cedars 2014 Merlot Rattlesnake Hills $27 88 points
Inviting aromas of cherry cordial, dried herb and chalk lead to generous, well-fashioned fruit flavors. Light tannins provide support.

Twin Cedars 2014 Bronze Star Yakima Valley $30 86 points
This wine is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon along with 25% Cabernet Franc and 25% Malbec. Slightly elevated volatiles are followed by aromas of cherry, cinnamon, green herb, licorice and baking spice. Flavors are light and elegant in style.

Two Vintners 2015 Claire Boushey Vineyard Grenache Yakima Valley $40 93 points
Light in color, this wine offers beguiling aromas with notes of fire pit, flower, stem, potpourri, black raspberry and smoked meat. Ethereally light and enchanting, it’s texturally rich and flavorful, with a warm finish—a delicious example of this site and variety. Editor's Choice

Two Vintners 2015 Make Haste Cinsault Yakima Valley $21 92 points
This wine is all Cinsault from Olsen Vineyard. Aged in neutral French oak, it’s resplendent with aromas of raspberry jam, potpourri, plum, flower and garrigue. The palate is transparent in style with elegant but rich red-fruit and plum flavors that lead to a lengthy, warm finish. Editor's Choice

Upsidedown 2016 The Gold Drop Collection Grenache Columbia Valley $40 88 points
Light in color, this offers faint aromas that give up almost nothing on first pour, except notes of spice. Still young, the palate is more revealing, showing elegant flavors of raspberry and plum. If the aromas open up it could move up a notch.

Watermill 2014 Anna Marie Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $50 88 points
The barrel influence is primarily aromatical with notes of nougat, vanilla and sweet spices out in front of cherry and red apple. The fruit vies with the oak for attention on the palate as well, although the latter shows a pleasing supple feel as well as excellent concentration. There’s impressive fruit here, but the oak unfortunately gets in the way of it.

Watermill 2014 Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $36 87 points
Barrel aromas are at the fore, with notes of vanilla, dill, toast and baking spice, along with a light meaty note. The flavors show a luscious, velvety feel, with the oak influence running quite high.

Watermill 2014 Estate Vineyard Tempranillo The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater $36 85 points
The aromas are oak dominated, with notes of vanilla extract, coconut, dill, spearmint and freshly hewn wood, with the fruit struggling to get to the surface. There’s a soft, pleasing feel to the palate but the wood again gets in the way. The fruit is hard to find.

Watermill 2014 Dugger Creek Vineyard Nebbiolo Walla Walla Valley (OR) $24 87 points
This variety is unheard of in the appellation. Quite pale in color with an orange tinge, the aromas bring notes of macerated cranberry and cherry, along with a vanilla note that gives the impression of confection. The palate brings lighter-styled fruit flavors, with the oak taking over on the back half. The tannins are quite light for the variety. It’s intriguing but doesn’t seem varietal.

Watermill 2015 Viognier Columbia Valley $18 86 points
Aromas of watermelon Jolly Rancher, peach and flower are followed by broad honeysuckle and stone-fruit flavors. It doesn’t all come together.

Watermill 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $32 87 points
The oak is far out front, with aromas of vanilla, shaved coconut, toast and freshly chopped wood, making it hard to get at the notes of dark fruit and herb. The flavors show fruit mixed with a heavy barrel influence, with the latter winning out on the finish.

William Marie 2016 Syrah Columbia Valley $25 86 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Block 66 of Double Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. The aromas aren’t entirely harmonious, with notes of dark, slightly overripe-seeming fruit along with black pepper and licorice, showing some volatility. The black-raspberry flavors are light and compact. It doesn’t come together.

Wind Rose 2016 The Keeper Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley $20 86 points
Light aromas of melon, pear and herb lead to similarly faint fruit flavors. It’s cleanly made but everything seems very dialed back.

Wind Rose 2016 Bravo Bianco White Table Wine Chardonnay Yakima Valley $22 88 points
This wine is all Chardonnay. Bright aromas of candied apple, crayon and melon lead to broad, dry fruit flavors that show a touch of bitterness on the finish. It’s a pleasing, very cleanly made offering of this variety.

Wine Enthusiast Reviews for March 2018

Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for March 2018. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read additional information on how I review wines here. All of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide. There is also a freely available Wine Enthusiast Tasting Guide app. See previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast's on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.

103 reviews in the March issue. Wines include two knockout Syrahs from Avennia (Avennia 2015 Le Corbeau Discovery Vineyard Syrah Horse Heaven Hills $50, 93 points; Avennia 2015 Arnaut Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $50 93 points). This is Avennia’s first vineyard-designated Syrah from Discovery. As an aside, doing a tasting across Discovery Vineyard Syrahs from Avennia, Two Vintners, and W.T. Vintners would make for a fun party theme. Also from Avennia, their Les Trouvés 2015 Red Blend Columbia Valley ($25, 92 points) is one of the best quality-to-price ratio wines so far this year.

Many winemakers I speak with talk about how special Washington Petit Verdot can be. However, most of these sample people don’t make it as a varietal wine given that it is not well known, can be a challenge to fully ripen, and can have extremely high acidity and tannin. However, winemaker Brennon Leighton gives a great example of why so many winemakers are excited with this variety here with his B. Leighton 2014 Olsen Brothers Petit Verdot Yakima Valley ($55, 93 points).

Sticking with Leighton-made wines, the Casa Smith label under the Charles Smith Wines of Substance umbrella way over-deliver for their price (Casa Smith 2015 Porcospino Northridge Vineyard Primitivo Wahluke Slope $20, 91 points; Casa Smith 2015 Cervo Northridge Vineyard Barbera Wahluke Slope $20, 91 points). Give them a look.

Smith’s other 2014 releases include some stunners (Charles Smith 2014 King Coal Stoneridge Vineyard Red Blend Columbia Valley $100, 94 points; K Vintners 2014 Royal City Stoneridge Vineyard Syrah Washington $140, 95 points; K Vintners 2014 Powerline Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45, 94 points; K Vintners 2014 Ovide Jack’s Vineyard Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $55, 94 points). Meanwhile, the Sixto Chardonnays continue to be some of the best examples of this variety in the state.

On the value side, a number of quality wines from Pacific Rim listed below. Also check out the 2015 ViNo Pinot Grigio.

* * *

Airfield Estates 2015 Spitfire Red Blend Yakima Valley $30 88 points
Sangiovese (61%) takes the lead on this blend, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (29%) and Merlot. The aromas are light, with notes of smoke, herb, plum and cigar box. The palate shows more generosity, with plentiful red fruit and herb flavors backed by firm tannins. The finish comes up a bit short.

Airfield Estates 2015 Bombshell Red Vineyard Salute Red Blend Yakima Valley $18 86 points
Merlot and Syrah both make up 39% of this blend, with the balance Cabernet Sauvignon (13%), Cabernet Franc (7%) and Petit Verdot. Aromas of vanilla, coconut, herb, cedar and cherry lead to lighter-styled fruit flavors, with blueberry notes on the finish. The tannins bright a slight grittiness, and the oak seems a little intense.

Airfield Estates 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $18 88 points
Aromas of cocoa, coffee, herb and cherry are followed by somewhat lightly styled plum and dark-fruit flavors. It pulls up a bit short on the finish and the tannins are a touch dry.

Airfield Estates 2015 Malbec Yakima Valley $35 87 points
Aromas of sweet herb, cherry and barrel spice are followed by pitch-black-fruit flavors that work around the edges, with a tart citrus filled finish that falls a bit short. The tannins bring a bit of grit.

Avennia 2015 Le Corbeau Discovery Vineyard Syrah Horse Heaven Hills $50 93 points
Aged in neutral French oak, this wine puts a premium on purity of expression. The aromas are distinctive in intriguing notes of crushed flower, blackberry and sage, along with whiffs of mountain berry and meat. The flavors show depth and intensity, with a swoon-worthy feel and a finish that sails. Editor's Choice

Avennia 2015 Arnaut Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $50 93 points
Coming from one of the state’s premier Syrah vineyards, brooding aromas of dried herb, iron, earth and boysenberry lead to a densely saturated palate. There’s no doubt it comes from a warm vintage but it still shows pleasing complexities that reveal themselves over time.

B. Leighton 2014 Olsen Brothers Petit Verdot Yakima Valley $55 93 points
This variety is making waves in Washington and this wine demonstrates why. The aromas are effusive, with notes of dark cherry, dried herb and barrel spice. The palate is filled to the brim with rich fruit flavors that show focus and depth, while the tannins are combed to a fine sheen. It’s high on the hedonist scale—a standout offering. Editor's Choice

Barons 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $45 88 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of fresh and dried herb, cedar box, cranberry, Red Vines, smoke and dark fruit. The palate reveals tightly wound, slightly dried-out seeming red and black-fruit flavors that carry through the finish.

Barons 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $45 88 points
The aromas are intriguing but not yet ready to reveal their charms, with notes of cherry, red apple, ground herb and spice. The cranberry and cherry flavors seem a bit bunched up but still bring a sense of elegance. It doesn’t all seem to come together at present.

Barons 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $65 91 points
All coming from Hedges Estate Vineyard and aged in 100% new French oak, this wine has had a full five years to develop and it’s made the best of it. Aromas of spice box, dark fruit, vanilla and high-toned herb are followed by luscious black-fruit flavors that stretch out on the finish. It’s unabashed in its appeal with a lot of life in front of it.

Barons 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $65 91 points
The fruit for this wine all comes from Hedges Estate Vineyard. Brooding aromas of soil, dark fruit, cigar, herb and spice box lead to palate-coating dark-fruit flavors—well balanced fruit flavors. Firm, lightly chalky tannins provide support. Give it some time in the cellar to develop. Best after 2020.

Boudreaux Cellars 2011 Merlot Washington $60 88 points
Coming from one of the state’s coolest vintages, this comes in at an alcohol level rarely seen in modern day reds in the state. The aromas are a bit unusual for this variety, with notes of herb, blue fruit and wood, along with a light floral note. The palate brings sleekly styled fruit flavors backed by tart acidity, tapering toward the finish. Light medicinal notes linger.

Boudreaux Cellars 2015 Gamache Vineyard Riesling Washington $25 88 points
The aromas bring generous notes of white peach, lime and quinine. It drinks dry, with plentiful stone fruit and citrus flavors, finishing with floral notes and a touch of bitterness.

Boudreaux Cellars 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $125 91 points
Hailing from one of the coolest vintages the state has ever seen, the aromas bring brooding notes of cherry cola, raspberry, dried leaf, wood and cigar box. The flavors are light, tart and focused, maintaining a sense of freshness. It’s a lovely offering from this challenging year.

Boudreaux Cellars 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $75 90 points
This wine comes from a number of top sites, including Bacchus, Champoux, Loess and Seven Hills. Pleasing aromas of graphite, spice, fresh herb, whole green pepper and earth lead to light fresh-feeling fruit and savory flavors. It shows a lovely sense of balance. This was a cool, particularly challenging vintage for the state but this wine succeeds on many levels.

Boudreaux Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $60 91 points
The aromas bring notes of cigar box, mortared herbs and cherry. The palate is tart, fresh and acid driven, with well-balanced fruit flavors that stretch out on the finish. It should still have a good life in front of it.

Boudreaux Cellars 2010 Reserve Champoux and Loess Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $115 91 points
This wine hails from two top vineyards. A full eight-years-old and coming from a cool vintage, the aromas are light, with notes of cedar, cherry and herb, dotted with wood spice. The palate brings quite tart fruit flavors, accented by racy acidity and supported by firm, tightly wound tannins. With acid like this, it absolutely requires some food alongside it to be properly enjoyed. Steak should do.

Casa Smith 2015 Porcospino Northridge Vineyard Primitivo Wahluke Slope $20 91 points
Coming from a vineyard that is increasingly establishing its prominence, fruit-forward aromas of plum, boysenberry, dried herb, spice and moist earth are followed by saturated sumptuous blue and red-fruit flavors. It’s undeniable in its appeal at a price that can’t be beat. Editor's Choice

Casa Smith 2015 Cervo Northridge Vineyard Barbera Wahluke Slope $20 91 points
The aromas leap up out of the glass, with exquisite notes of plum, spice and cherry cream. On the palate, it’s rich with soft fruit flavors, showing ripeness but still maintaining its balance, with the neutral oak aging bringing an aching sense of purity. Candied-cherry notes linger on the finish. It’s a whole lot of wine for the money, with a big yum factor. Editor's Choice

Catman 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $32 85 points
Aromas of plum and high-toned dried herb lead to cherry and berry flavors. The tannins bring a lightly gritty feel. The tartness of the acidity adds to the enjoyment, but you’d never peg it for Cabernet.

Catman 2015 Barbera Columbia Valley $32 83 points
The cranberry and raspberry aromas show volatility that distracts. The flavors are lightly sweet with a tart finish.

Charles Smith 2014 Lawrence Vineyard Viognier Yakima Valley $40 91 points
The aromas are subdued for the variety but intriguing, with notes of pear, ginger, wet rock and peach, along with cinnamon and light barrel spices. The palate is considerably more forward, with abundant stone-fruit flavors that show concentration and richness along with a sense of restraint.

Charles Smith 2014 Broncho Stoneridge Vineyard Malbec Washington $70 91 points
The aromas erupt from the glass, with notes of potpourri, orange peel, moist earth, stem and garden herb. The palate shows a pleasing mix of earth and savory flavors that deliver a lot of elegance and intertwine effortlessly through the finish. The variety seems a bit hard to find but the expression is quite intriguing.

Charles Smith 2014 King Coal Stoneridge Vineyard Red Blend Columbia Valley $100 94 points
A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah, the aromas draw you into the glass, with light notes of savory herb, cassis, pipe tobacco, spice and crushed rock. It brings a flat-out gorgeous sense of texture, covering the palate from end to end with cherry flavors that glide on the finish. The feel is knee-buckling. Best after 2021. Cellar Selection

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2015 Indian Wells Red Blend Columbia Valley $18 86 points
Syrah and Merlot make up the majority of this blend, which is topped off with pinches of other Bordeaux and Rhône varieties. The aromas are inviting, with notes of blueberry pie, herb and smoke. The fruit flavors don’t entirely deliver on this promise, with quite-light plum notes that paint around the edges. Vanilla notes linger on the finish.

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Brut Méthode Champenoise Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $13 88 points
The aromas are bright and focused, with notes of lemon pith, candle wax and spice. The palate brings a mixture of peach and orange flavors. It provides a lot of appeal, especially at this price. Best Buy

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Brut Rosé Méthode Champenoise Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $13 88 points
Aromas of strawberry, apple and citrus provide appeal. The palate is lively and elegant, with a sweet citrus-filled finish. Best Buy

Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Extra Dry Méthode Champenoise Sparkling Blend Columbia Valley $13 87 points
The aromas bring notes of lemon, baked bread and freshly peeled orange. The palate is noticeably sweet but with enough acidity to keep it all moving along.

Eleven 2015 Mourvèdre Yakima Valley $44 86 points
The aromas bring unusual notes of grape cough syrup, smoke, herb and cherry Jolly Rancher. The palate falls flat, painting around the edges.

Estrin 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25 88 points
Fruit for this wine comes from a mixture of Riverbend, Conner Lee and Red Mountain vineyards. Aromas of vanilla, wood spice, herb, cranberry, apple and red and black cherry are followed by plentiful dark-fruit flavors. Vanilla and cranberry notes intertwine on the finish, with the fruit seeming slightly grapey.

Estrin 2014 Merlot Wahluke Slope $25 90 points
Fruit for this wine all comes from Riverbend Vineyard and saw just 10% new French oak. Blended with 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, a medley of fresh herbs pop on the aromas, which also show notes of cigar box and whiffs of pencil lead. The palate brings cranberry-tart fruit flavors that offer pleasing depth and stretch out on the finish. It provides a lot of quality and value. Editor's Choice

Estrin 2013 Merlot Columbia Valley $25 89 points
Blended with 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from Riverbend, this wine principally comes from Red Mountain Vineyard. The aromas are all high toned at present, with notes of vanilla, herb and exotic spice, not quite ready to reveal their charms. The red-fruit flavors are plump in feel, lingering on the finish.

Estrin 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25 88 points
This wine, which includes 17% Merlot and 8% Syrah, all comes from Riverbend Vineyard. The aromas show pleasing complexities, with notes of graphite, herb, raspberry, barrel spice, dark cherry and vanilla. The flavors show depth, with a backbone of firm tannins providing support.

Gamache 2013 Estate Grown Malbec Columbia Valley $30 87 points
Aromas of blackberry, dark plum, barrel spice and plum lead to super-soft-feeling fruit and barrel flavors that show a pretty styling. It comes up a bit short on the finish.

Gamache 2013 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 87 points
The aromas bring a touch of oxidation that distracts from the notes of cherry, cocoa, vanilla and spice. There are a lot of good things happening on the palate but they can’t quite make up the difference.

Gamache 2013 Merlot Columbia Valley $25 87 points
The aromas seem unsettled, with notes of vanilla, baking spice and dark fruit that don’t seem entirely in harmony. The palate is chock-full of raspberry and barrel-spice flavors, with loads of coconut on the finish. The aromas and flavors seem out of sync.

Gård 2014 Lawrence Vineyards Merlot Columbia Valley $35 91 points
The aromas show nuance, with notes of toast, assorted dried herb, cherry and plum. The fruit flavors are seamless in feel, showing concentration and depth. It’s thoroughly enchanting.

Gård 2014 Lawrence Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $35 91 points
Blended with 14% Merlot, aromas of char, smoke, ground green herb, spice box, graphite and dark cherry lead to plentiful, saturated dark fruit and barrel flavors with a pleasing mouthfeel. It hits a lot of high notes.

K Vintners 2014 Royal City Stoneridge Vineyard Syrah Washington $140 95 points
Coming from the Royal Slope, which no doubt will deservedly have its own appellation before long, enchanting aromas of ground rock, green olive, green stem, crushed flower and dark fruit lead to a panoply of fruit and savory flavors that shake the senses to the core, with smoked meat notes persisting on the long finish. It’s an intense experience but maintains a sense of balance that is heart stopping. Drink from 2020-2027. Cellar Selection

K Vintners 2014 Cattle King Upland Vineyard Syrah Snipes Mountain $70 94 points
Consistently one of the winery’s top bottlings, aromas of blackberry, black plum, dried herb, anise and spice are followed by supremely rich, tightly wound black fruit and crème de cassis flavors that show a firm grainy handshake of tannins and a warm crazy-long finish. It’s all about intensity of expression but what intensity it brings.

K Vintners 2014 Powerline Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 94 points
This new exciting vineyard is located in the foothills of the Blue Mountains and is filled with cobblestone soils. The aromas explode with notes of raspberry, green and black olive brine, green stem, smoked meat, mineral and earth. The palate is rich and focused, with intense earth, fruit and savory flavors that lead to an extended finish. Abundant floral notes are speckled throughout. It’s a stunner.

K Vintners 2014 Charlotte Walla Walla Valley $55 92 points
A blend of 43% Grenache, 24% Mourvédre, 20% Syrah, and 13% Roussanne, the aromas show a lot of subtlety, with notes of raspberry, garrigue, stem, pepper and moist earth. The palate brings a compelling sense of texture that is absolutely swoon-worthy, running just a touch warm.

K Vintners 2014 Phil Lane Syrah Walla Walla Valley $70 92 points
On first pour, this wine is not ready to reveal its charms, with locked-up notes of plum, herb, coffee, licorice, smoke, flower and spice. The fruit flavors are rich yet sophisticated, gliding across the palate to a lingering finish.

K Vintners 2014 The Creator Powerline Estate Vineyard Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $55 93 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) takes the lead on this wine, which includes 20% Syrah. The aromas announce themselves, with appealing notes of green olive, herb, moist earth, stem, smoked meat and mineral. The mix of fruit and savory flavors delights the senses, showing intensity but also deftness. Editor's Choice

K Vintners 2014 El Jefe Stoneridge Vineyard Tempranillo Washington $70 93 points
The aromas are sweet and sappy, with notes of raspberry, herb, pipe tobacco and musk. The palate shows more restraint than the aromas might suggest, bringing a suave sense that carries through a finish that just won’t quit. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery, bringing a lot of richness.

K Vintners 2014 Rock Garden Syrah Walla Walla Valley $55 93 points
Coming from The Rocks District, the aromas pop, with notes of flower, raspberry, moist earth, wet gravel, green stem, smoked meat, peat and musk. The palate shimmers with intensity but still shows a lot of restraint, displaying an assortment of fruit and savory flavors that persist on the finish.

K Vintners 2014 Klein Syrah Walla Walla Valley $70 93 points
This wine was grown at a mere 1.2 tons per acre and spent 20 months in the barrel aging on lees in 60% new puncheons. The aromas are brooding on first pour, with notes of blackberry, mineral, fresh herb, potpourri and barrel spice. The palate is incredibly dense and rich, with a lick of tannins on the warm finish. It’s a big wine, made in a muscular powerful style.

K Vintners 2014 Roma River Rock Vineyard Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $55 93 points
Coming from the Rocks District, this wine is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah. The aromas are brooding on first pour, opening up over time, with notes of blackberry, kirsch, high-toned barrel spice, herb and scorched earth. The flavors are concentrated and rich but still bring a sense of deftness, lingering on the finish. It has a long life in front of it. Editor's Choice

K Vintners 2014 Ovide Jack’s Vineyard Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $55 94 points
Coming from a vineyard in the Rocks District, aromas of kirsch, black currant, tobacco, spice and mineral are followed by saturated, rich black fruit and smoked meat flavors. It packs a powerful delicious punch.

K Vintners 2015 Powerline Vineyard Viognier Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
The aromas explode with notes of honeysuckle, ripe peach, apricot and creamsicle. The flavors are supremely rich but also show a beautiful sense of delicacy along with a pronounced finish. It’s full bore but delicious.

Kiona 2016 Riesling Columbia Valley $12 87 points
Aromas of flower, peach and jasmine lead to spritzy, off-dry stone fruit flavors. Floral notes are threaded throughout the palate, with light ale notes on the finish that cause some distraction. Best Buy 

Les Trouvés 2015 Red Blend Columbia Valley $25 92 points
Mourvèdre and Syrah each make up 40% of this blend, with the balance Grenache. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of garrigue, black pepper and blackberry. The palate is dense and ripe, pulling no punches but delivering a whole lot of hedonistic appeal. The value can’t be beat. Editor's Choice

Liberty Lake 2013 Tahija Heart of the Hill Vineyard Petite Sirah Red Mountain $24 86 points
Aromas of plum, baking spice and Band-Aid lead to a medium-bodied palate with a lightly tacky feel. The tannins bring a sense of astringency and it finishes bitter.

Maryhill 2014 Syrah Columbia Valley $26 85 points
The aromas display an uncomfortable mix of vanilla, dill and smoke, with the barrel influence taking over the show. The wood rides high on the palate as well, making it near impossible to get at the fruit.

Maryhill 2014 Serendipity Proprietor’s Reserve Columbia Gorge $36 87 points
This wine is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. The aromas display notes of baking spice, dark fruit and herb. The palate brings a chalky, lightly astringent feel, along with a tart finish.

Maryhill 2014 Marvell G-S-M Rattlesnake Hills $44 88 points
This wine is 42% Syrah, 32% Grenache and 26% Mourvèdre. Aromas of sagebrush, toasty barrel spice and jammy cherry are at the fore, with a medicinal note that causes some distraction. Despite the high alcohol, the flavors show an elegant styling, tapering toward the finish.

Maryhill 2014 Vineyard Series McKinley Springs Vineyard Mourvèdre Horse Heaven Hills $34 87 points
This wine is 100% varietal and was aged for 20 months in a mixture of American and European oak (40% new). The aromas are bright, with notes of assorted barrel spice, pickling spice, raspberry and dried herb. The palate is medium bodied with a bit of a hole in the middle. Bitters linger on the finish.

Maryhill 2014 Proprietor’s Reserve Gunkel Vineyards Barbera Columbia Valley $32 88 points
Bright aromas of raspberry, macerated cranberry, nougat, vanilla and pencil shavings lead to tart puckering fruit flavors that show intensity and length. There is much to enjoy.

Maryhill 2014 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot Red Mountain $42 86 points
Coming from one of the state’s top vineyards and 100% varietal, this has aromas of cherry, cranberry, vanilla and freshly chopped wood which lead to tart cherry flavors that display a bitter note that distracts. Barrel aged for 20 months in 60% new French oak, the wood influence seems heavy, getting in the way of the finish.

Mercer 2015 Merlot Horse Heaven Hills $20 87 points
The aromas are high toned, with notes of wood spice, dried herb and tire rubber, not seeming very varietal. The palate is ripe with plum and barrel flavors that paint around the edges. Mocha notes linger on the finish.

Mercer 2015 Malbec Horse Heaven Hills $20 87 points
Aromas of vanilla, baking spice and plum are followed by ripe but quite light cherry flavors. The tannins bring a slight sense of astringency that seems at odds with the variety.

Mustard Seed 2013 Moving Mountains Winesap VIneyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $45 88 points
This 100% varietal Cab has reserved aromas of blackberry Fruit Roll-Ups and barrel spice that lead to medium-bodied fruit flavors. It shows a fair amount of acidity considering the warmth of this vintage.

Mustard Seed 2014 Moving Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $40 87 points
The aromas are a bit unusual, with notes of red apple, overripe plum, spice and herb. The palate is lightly styled, with bunched-up cherry flavors that finish short.

Mustard Seed 2014 Cockburn Vineyard Malbec Walla Walla Valley $38 88 points
Single-vineyard Malbec is a rarity from this appellation. This one, which is 100% varietal, offers aromas of fresh and dried green herb along with clove, as the fruit lurks in the background. The palate brings ripe but in-balance purple-fruit flavors that show a sense of elegance. It’s a pretty interpretation of this variety.

Nodland 2014 Malbec Walla Walla Valley $35 89 points
Aromas of baking spice, vanilla, coconut and cherry are followed by well-proportioned fruit and barrel flavors. Cocoa notes linger on the finish. It hits a lot of high marks, though the variety seems a bit hard to find.

North by Northwest 2015 Red Blend Columbia Valley $15 88 points
This wine is a blend of Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas pop, with notes of raspberry, plum, herb and spice. The palate brings a mixture of fruit and savory flavors, with the tannins bringing a lightly tacky feel. There’s much to enjoy.

Pacific Rim 2016 Dry Riesling Columbia Valley $10 87 points
Whole lime and white peach aromas are at the fore. As promised, it drinks dry with tart Granny Smith apple flavors that provide plenty of intrigue. Enjoy it with food to see it at its best. Best Buy

Pacific Rim 2016 Old Vines Hahn Hill Vineyard Chenin Blanc Yakima Valley $15 87 points
Coming from the oldest Chenin plantings in the state, the aromas are light, with notes of sliced apple, flower and white peach. It drinks off dry, with sleek well-balanced honeyed-fruit flavors throughout. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery.

Pacific Rim 2016 Vin de Glacieire Riesling Columbia Valley $14 89 points
The aromas pop, with appealing notes of marmalade, sugared pineapple and honey. It’s sweet and luscious, with abundant apricot and tropical flavors that, despite their sugar, still maintain a sense of elegance and balance.

Pacific Rim 2016 Spring Creek Vineyard Grüner Veltliner Yakima Valley $15 88 points
Aromas of sliced ripe red apple and pear are followed by a quite sleek linear bone-dry palate that shows a pleasing sense of balance. It’s an intriguing wine, best suited for the dinner table.

Pacific Rim 2016 Ramos Vineyard Gewürztraminer Snipes Mountain $15 88 points
There’s no mistaking the variety, with its perfumed aromas of rose petal, lychee and spice. It drinks a hair off dry and is broad in feel, gliding on the finish.

Pacific Rim 2016 J Riesling Columbia Valley $10 88 points
The aromas are a bit light for the variety, with notes of lime leaf and white peach. The palate is broad in feel, full of off-dry mandarin orange and peach flavors that bring a lot of appeal. It keeps you coming back for more. Best Buy

Passing Time 2014 Red Blend Columbia Valley $50 92 points
Though not labeled as such, this is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Merlot (18%) and Cabernet Franc (8%). Coming from top sites Discovery, Quintessence, Seven Hills, The Benches, Figgins, Klipsun and Champoux, there’s a lot of sophistication in the aromas, with notes of dried herb, leaf, graphite, anise, spice and cherry providing appeal. The flavors are intense and full, showing an exquisite sense of balance and intensity. It keeps you coming back for more. Editor's Choice

Plumb Cellars 2013 Estate JK Vineyard Sangiovese Walla Walla Valley $24 87 points
The aromas are a bit unusual, with notes of wood spice and raspberry fruit leather, not seeming entirely harmonious. The palate is quite light in style, painting around the edges. It’s interesting but it doesn’t all come together—not standing on its own.

Plumb Cellars 2013 Plumb Crazy Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $18 86 points
This wine is a blend of near equal parts Syrah and Sangiovese. Barrel notes are at the fore, with aromas of baking spice and vanilla far out front of the fruit. The palate brings easygoing plum flavors that are concentrated in the middle and light around the edges.

Plumb Cellars 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $42 89 points
Aromas of herb, vanilla, pencil lead, barrel spice and coffee are followed by sleek but well-proportioned fruit flavors. It shows a lovely sense of balance, though the barrel influence plays a large part in the show.

Ram 2015 Alder Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $25 86 points
Aromas of green herb, baking spice, nori, licorice and black cherry are followed by tart dark-fruit flavors that seem bunched up. It falls off on the finish, displaying a light medicinal note.

Rio Vista 2016 Estate Grown and Bottled Riesling Columbia Valley $27 85 points
The aromas bring bright notes of mandarin orange peel, honeysuckle and lime zest. It drinks off dry, with a lightly spritzy palate packed full of ripe peach flavors.

Rio Vista 2014 River View Grand Reserve Columbia Valley $38 84 points
Lightly volatile aromas of baking spice, black licorice, cherry and vanilla lead to sweet, pruney fruit and barrel flavors, with the barrel notes riding high on the finish. It seems quite evolved for its age.

Rio Vista 2015 Pinot Noir Columbia Valley $42 85 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from Antoine Creek and Gingko Forest vineyards. Quite light in color, the aromas show a light volatility, along with notes of raspberry, strawberry and maraschino cherry. The fruit flavors are light, simple and sweet, finishing with peppermint notes.

Rio Vista 2015 Malbec Columbia Valley $36 86 points
Hailing from Antoine Creek Vineyard, the aromas of herb, cherry and spice seem to show some oxidation. Meanwhile, the medium-bodied cherry and raspberry flavors are straight down the fairway, providing enjoyment if not a lot of complexity.

Rio Vista 2015 Estate Grown and Bottled Merlot Columbia Valley $32 88 points
The aromas are fruit forward, with notes of cherry, plum, herb, raspberry and wood spice. The flavors are rich, sappy and full, backed by soft tannins. Barrel notes linger on the finish.

Rio Vista 2015 Tempranillo Wahluke Slope $34 86 points
Coming from Rosebud Vineyard, the aromas show a bit of oxidation along with a touch of volatility. It’s a shame as the palate is full of luscious rich fruit flavors that provide a lot of enjoyment. Vanilla notes linger on the finish.

Sixto 2014 Moxee Chardonnay Washington $55 93 points
Coming from a vineyard planted in 1973 at an elevation of 1,450 feet, the aromas draw you into the glass, with intoxicating notes of cream, ginger, pumpkin spice and chamomile. The palate possesses a creamy texture but also a sense of weightlessness that provides a lot of appeal. The balance is exquisite. Editor's Choice

Sixto 2014 Roza Hills Chardonnay Washington $55 92 points
This wine comes from old vines planted at high elevation. A light-gold color, aromas of toast, peach, pumpkin spice and wet rock are followed by plentiful stone and tropical-fruit flavors speckled with barrel spices, showing superb length on the flavorful finish. It has an absolutely swoon-worthy feel. More please! Best from 2019–2024. Cellar Selection

Sixto 2014 Frenchman Hills Chardonnay Washington $55 93 points
Of the vineyard designated wines, this one comes from the youngest vines, planted in 1998. The aromas of peach, pear, mineral, pineapple upside down cake and spice are subtle and refined. The palate is sleek yet silky and extremely flavorful, full of stone-fruit flavors that lead to a finish that won’t quit. It’s all about delicacy and restraint, hitting a lot of high notes. Editor's Choice

Sixto 2014 Uncovered Chardonnay Washington $35 93 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from Frenchman Hills (33%), Moxee (28%), Roza Hills (27%) and Evergreen vineyards. The aromas show a lot of subtlety, with notes of candied ginger, lemon curd, spice, peach, cream, toast, wet stone and pineapple, revealing more on each swirl. The palate is rich but refined, showing precision and detail along with a real sense of freshness. The finish impresses. Beautiful stuff.

Substance 2014 Bx Vineyard Collection Klein Vineyard Walla Walla Valley $70 88 points
This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Cabernet Franc (30%) and Merlot. Baking spice, licorice, vanilla and dried fruit aromas are followed by full-bodied fruit and spice flavors. It brings appeal, but the fruit seems a bit desiccated. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Substance 2014 Me Vineyard Collection Northridge Vineyard Merlot Wahluke Slope $45 88 points
The aromas of licorice, black fruit and dried herb bring a slightly baked quality. The flavors are full and up front, showing pleasing concentration while retaining elegance. There are a lot of good things going on here but I can’t see them evolving much. Drink it in the near term.

Substance 2014 Cs Vineyard Collection Stoneridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $45 90 points
Listed at a low alcohol level for a hot vintage and vineyard, this is still and 100% varietal. Its black licorice, sugared plum and exotic spice aromas show a penetrating purity. The palate is all about delicacy and elegance, which it brings in abundance. It’s a very pretty expression of this variety, maybe too much so for some tastes, without the variety’s typical tannic heft. But for those looking for a sophisticated style of Cabernet, look no further.

Substance 2014 Me Vineyard Collection Stoneridge Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley $45 89 points
The aromas are light on first pour, opening up over time with notes of herb, cherry, wood spice and black licorice. The ripe currant flavors are a bit linear in style, but show polish and appeal, seeming ever so slightly dried out.

Substance 2014 Cs Vineyard Collection Jack’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $45 90 points
Coming from a site in the Rocks District, this wine is lighter in color and brings initially subdued aromas of cassis, herb, medicine cabinet, plum, cherry and spice. The palate is soft in feel, putting a premium on elegance of expression, with the tannins quite supple. It’s a very pretty expression of the variety.

Substance 2014 Cs Vineyard Collection Powerline Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $45 90 points
This is 100% varietal, coming from the winery’s young estate vineyard. The aromas are bright, with notes of dried herb, cherry liqueur, anise, black tea and whole bell pepper, seeming ever so slightly dried out. The flavors are plump but still light on their feet, supported by surprisingly soft tannins for the variety.

Tamarack Cellars 2013 Sagemoor Vineyard Columbia Valley $50 91 points
Coming from one of the state’s top vineyards, this wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Cabernet Franc (10%), 7% Petit Verdot and Merlot. The aromas are tightly wound on first pour, with pleasing notes of red and black fruit, along with plum, mocha, herb, flower and spice. The flavors are pitch black, soft and silky in feel with highly structured, ever so slightly dry tannins that smooth out with some time open. This one needs additional time. Best after 2021.

Tamarack Cellars 2013 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Reserve Red Mountain $50 89 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up half of this blend, with the balance Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. The aromas bring wound-up notes of red apple, cherry, herb, graphite, flower and barrel spice. The flavors are smooth and silky in feel, showing a pleasing depth.

Tamarack Cellars 2015 Merlot Columbia Valley $28 88 points
The aromas are high toned, with notes of char, plum, butterscotch, vanilla and spice, needing some coaxing to get at them initially. The palate mixes cherry and cranberry flavors that show intensity and length. There are good things going on but they don’t all seem to come together at present.

The Leader 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $18 86 points
High-toned aromas of pencil lead, game, dark plum, fruit leather and green herb lead to plentiful dark-fruit flavors. The fruit seems a bit dried out.

Vino 2015 Pinot Grigio Washington $12 90 points
This wine is two-thirds Evergreen and one-third RAF vineyards, both in the Ancient Lakes appellation and all fermented and aged in stainless steel. It’s spot on for the variety, with notes of whole Granny Smith apple and green melon. The palate redolent with sleek fresh apple and pear flavors that power through the finish. It’s a standout at this price. Best Buy

Vino 2016 Rosé Sangiovese Washington $12 88 points
A very pretty pale peach color, the aromas display intriguing notes of tangerine peel, herb, flint, strawberry, flower and mineral. It drinks dry and is elegant in style, with plentiful tangerine flavors on the finish. It’s shows some sneaky complexity. Best Buy

Wind Rose 2014 Bravo Rosso Red Blend Yakima Valley $25 88 points
Barbera (61%) takes the lead on this blend, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (18%), Primitivo (16%), Dolcetto (4%) and Sangiovese. The aromas offer notes of herb, freshly hewn wood, cherry and vanilla. The cranberry tart and juicy fruit flavors bring appeal. Pair it with pizza or pasta.

Wind Rose 2014 Omaggio Barbera Red Mountain $33 87 points
The aromas are light, with notes of mocha, herb, plum and pie cherry along with whiffs of tire rubber. Despite the high alcohol level, the palate shows a fairly elegant sense of styling, tapering toward the finish.

Wind Rose 2015 Lonesome Springs Ranch Malbec Yakima Valley $25 88 points
Blended with 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, the aromas bring pleasing notes of plum, green herb and baking spice. The flavors show a sense of elegance, painting around the edges, with the middle a bit lacking. It finishes with a tart kick.

Wind Rose 2014 Dolcetto Yakima Valley $20 89 points
This wine was aged in stainless steel—a rarity for a red in Washington. Aromas of herb, pepper, plum and dark fruit are followed by plump fruit flavors that paint a bit around the edges. There’s much to enjoy here, though the middle seems somewhat missing. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best.