February Pic of the Vine

The just-released March issue of Wine Enthusiast carries a feature article I authored on Red Mountain, one of the nation’s premier wine regions. The article is illustrated with photographs from our resident photographer, Richard Duval.

“This article was a bit different from some others I’ve worked on with Sean in that we knew we’d be collaborating up front,” Duval said. “It made for a fun photo pairing, like this one from Klipsun Vineyard that the magazine used for the opening spread.” Read the article and see other images here.

See other Pic of the Vine images.

On wine ratings

As all of my reviews and scores for Washington wines will now be published in Wine Enthusiast rather than in this space, I want to take a moment to talk about how these scores relate to the rating system that I have used here, how wines are rated and reviewed at Wine Enthusiast, and more generally how I think about wine ratings.

Several years back I published the following comparison of the five star rating system that I have used here as it relates to my original scoring system and also the 100-point scale. I am republishing it here for reference.

Washington Wine Report Rating System







Wine Enthusiast 100-point rating definitions

As you can read in the ‘About the Buying Guide’ section, Wine Enthusiast has its own categories and definitions for its point scores. They are as follows:

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality.
Superb 94–97: A great achievement.
Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended.
Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended.
Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value.
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less critical circumstances.

Note that, if you look at the categories (as opposed to just the numerical ratings), there is some overlap as well as some differences in the definitions I have used here. For example, Wine Enthusiast has two categories in the upper tier - ‘Classic’ and ‘Superb’ - and also distinguishes between ‘Good’ and ‘Very Good’. There are also differences in the point ranges associated with these definitions and those associated with the star system I have used here.

How I taste wines for review at Wine Enthusiast

Previously at Washington Wine Report, I have generally tasted wines non-blind in winery sets. That is, I taste all of the wines from a particular winery in one sitting. This allows me to get a sense of producer and vintage. In contrast, all wines that I review for Wine Enthusiast are sampled blind in sets of four to twelve. These flights are arranged by variety or wine type, such as a Bordeaux-style blend or Cabernet Sauvignon.

When tasting wines, I typically make at least two to three passes taking independent notes each time. These tastings typically take place over a couple hours. I generally keep the number of wines I taste on any given day fairly small (typically 8-20). While I may taste a wine over several days to get a sense of a wine's overall ageworthiness, any notes beyond the first day when the wine is tasted blind do not affect the score of the wine, just its drinking window.

Special designations at Wine Enthusiast

In addition to its ratings, Wine Enthusiast also has certain ‘special designations’, namely Editor’s Choice, Cellar Selections, and Best Buys. The text that describes these designations, taken verbatim from the magazine’s website, are below:

Editors' Choice wines are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a wine must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys  are wines that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but they are generally priced at $15 or less.

Of note, Editor’s Choice and Cellar Selections are selected at my discretion. Best Buys are at the discretion of the magazine.

How to interpret my scores at Wine Enthusiast

My friend Paul Zitarelli at Full Pull Wines recently suggested having to apply a ‘Sullivan curve’ to my scores. In doing so, he noted the limited number of wines I have given ratings in the upper ranges at Wine Enthusiast. While I believe my scores and tasting notes speak for themselves, I do believe there is value in putting them in context of reviews from others.

Personally, I don’t believe I am a tough rater of wines. I believe I am, or certainly try to be, a fair rater of wines. I try to rate wines on a qualitative basis relative to their peers from the same variety and from the same area, also keeping in mind world wine quality. I try as best I can to review wines irrespective of my own personal palate preferences. That is to say, I am trying to assess what the quality of the wine is, not whether I might personally like to drink it at home. I believe many wine reviewers would say the same.

In terms of ratings, for me, wines in the ‘Excellent’ category for Wine Enthusiast – 90 to 93 - are very high scores, with the majority of wines scoring below this. Wines in what Wine Enthusiast refers to as the ‘Superb’ (94 to 97) and ‘Classic’ (98 to 100) categories are quite rare in my experience. They do exist, but they are typically very few and very far between.

How do my reviews and scores compare with those of other reviewers? That is for others to see and to say. The scores are obviously out there for comparison.

Without further navel gazing, look for my Wine Enthusiast scores to be republished in this space in the near future.

Tonight! February Virtual Tasting - Saviah Cellars The Jack Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

The February Virtual Tasting is tonight! The wine is the Saviah Cellars 2012 The Jack Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley. This wine retails for $18 and is widely available. The tasting will take place tonight, Thursday February 26th, from 7-8pm Pacific.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from the winery or a local retailer

2. Tweet your comments about the wine on Twitter between 7 and 8pm Pacific on the specified date using the hashtag #saviah. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport.

Note: The image displayed is for the 2009 offering of the wine. We will be tasting the 2012. 

Northwest Wine Round-up February 15th to 21st 2015

A round-up of stories on Northwest wines from February 15^th to 21. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

Wine Enthusiast writes about Red Mountain rising (article by yours truly). Please bear with the six (!) advancement arrows.

Forbes writes that Gallo does Washington.

The Yamhill News Register writes about record temperatures in Washington and Oregon.

The Bradenton Herald writes about Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.


From the blogosphere…

Snooth writes about The Rocks District.

Wine Searcher writes about Walla Walla Valley’s quiet revolution. They also write about Cayuse Vineyards.

Great Northwest Wine writes about Auction of Washington Wines 2015 honorees. They also write about Washington grape growers honoring their own, and a classic wine auction in Portland.

Lucha Vino compares a Washington Monastrell to one from Jumilla.

Examiner.com writes about Ambassador Vineyards.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about sensory training with Hillary Sjolund. William also writes about Taste Washington.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about weddings at Columbia Winery. Shona also writes about the best from Seattle Wine and Food Experience, a new farm-to-table experience at Taste Washington and upcoming events.

Zinfandel Chronicles writes about the 2005 Cayuse Armada.

Write for Wine writes about Taste Washington’s new farm-to-table experience.

The Home Ranch writes about Doubleback and Leonetti.


From the locals…

The Statesman Journal writes about 50 years of Pinot Noir in the Willamette Valley. They also write about Griffin Creek.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Rhone varieties. They also write about bargain reds.

Seattle Metropolitan makes the aMaurice Cellars 2011 Malbec its weekly wine pick (article by yours truly).

WSU asks, how many bubbles are needed in bubbly?

The Yakima Herald writes that ecology is crafting new rules for wastewater.

Oregon Coast Today writes about the Newport Seafood and Wine Festival.

The News Tribune writes about Victor Palencia.

The Seattle Weekly writes that balance is the new buzzword in the Washington wine industry.

Good Fruit Grower writes that WAWGG honors grape industry members.

Eugene Daily News writes about Ken Wright Cellars.

King 5 writes about L’Ecole No. 41. They also write about the Northwest Wine Academy.

Puget Sound Business Journal writes about the Washington State Wine Awards.

The Columbian write about Burnt Bridge Cellars.

The Tri-City Herald writes about proposed wastewater permits.


Leftovers (posts missed from previous weeks)…

Food Republic writes about Charles Smith.


That’s all folks!

February Virtual Tasting - Saviah Cellars The Jack Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

The February Virtual Tasting wine is the Saviah Cellars 2012 The Jack Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley. This wine retails for $18 and is widely available. The tasting will take place on Thursday February 26th from 7-8pm Pacific.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from the winery or a local retailer

2. Tweet your comments about the wine on Twitter between 7 and 8pm Pacific on the specified date using the hashtag #saviah. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport.

Note: The image displayed is for the 2009 offering of the wine. We will be tasting the 2012. 

Northwest Wine Round-up February 8th to 14th 2015

A round-up of stories on Northwest wine from February 8^th to 14^th 2015. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

Wine Enthusiast writes about Oregon’s value Pinot Noir.


From the blogosphere…

Great Northwest Wine writes that a rule change would help many Northwest wineries. They also write about the Barnard Griffin Rosé, a Millennial-themed wine event, WAWGG, and that Cayuse won’t use The Rocks District on its labels.

Wine Searcher.com writes about The Rocks appellation.

AgInfo.net writes about The Rocks District.

Wine Peeps writes about Chateau Ste Michelle.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about weddings in Woodinville.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about the Michelle Brut Rose.

Vindulge gives wine pairings for smoked Cuban sandwiches.

Zinfandel Chronicles writes about the Thurston Wolfe Howling Wolfe Zinfandel.


From the locals…

Capital Press writes about The Rocks District. They also write that the Wine Science Center is taking shape.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Victor Palencia.

The Yakima Herald writes about the record grape crush. They also write about white wine growth.

The Statesman Journal writes about wine and chocolate combos.

The Bend Bulletin writes about wine growlers.

The Union Bulletin writes that air service is flying high in Walla Walla.

KOMO News writes about Washington’s record grape harvest.

Go Local PDX writes that the sales of Oregon wines exploded in 2014.

Eugene Daily News writes about Oregon Pinot Gris.

Seattle Metropolitan gives a weekly wine pick (article by yours truly).

Seattle Times writes about Rainier Wine Co. They also write about road trips for Valentine’s Day.

The News Tribune writes that 2014 marks the third straight record harvest for Washington. They also write that Chelan wineries are on the rise and the challenges of cool and warm vintages.

eNews Park Forst writes that Senator Wyden lauds proposed changes in wine rules.

Good Fruit Grower writes about women in vineyards. They also write that premium wine sales are still growing and Calvin Mercer.

KVEW TV writes about Washington’s record harvest.

The Daily Astorian writes about The Rocks District.

Wine Press Northwest writes that the grape growers conference outgrows the Kennewick Convention Center.

The Puget Sound Business Journal writes about Washington’s record grape crop.

East Oregonian writes about The Rocks District.

Portland Tribune writes about a wine club not for wine snobs.

WNCT writes about The Rocks District.


That’s all folks!

Proposed rule would alter the use of appellation names on wine labels

On Monday the Alcohol Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) proposed a rule that, if enacted, would significantly alter the way that appellation names can be used on wine labels. Specifically, the proposed rule – issued in Notice No. 147 - would allow wineries to use single state appellations of origin on labels if they are in an adjacent state.

Currently, Federal law states that, in order to use an appellation of origin, a wine must be ‘fully finished’ in the state in which the appellation lies. That is to say, a Washington-based winery, for example, cannot use an Oregon located appellation on their label. The proposed rule would broaden this to allow adjacent states to use single state appellations.

The proposed rule came about due to the recently approved The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater appellation. This viticultural area is a sub-appellation of the Walla Walla Valley, which spans the Washington and Oregon border. However, the newly approved Rocks District is wholly located on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley. This means that, under present law, producers that are located on the Washington side of the Walla Walla Valley (or elsewhere in the state) would be unable to use The Rocks District on their labels because that appellation is wholly located in Oregon. If this proposed rule is approved, this would no longer be the case as Washington is an adjacent state.

The TTB states that, "The proposal would provide greater flexibility in wine production and labeling while still ensuring that consumers are provided with adequate information as to the identity of the wines they purchase." Winemakers would have more choices as to where they finish their wines and what appellation labels they use. Growers within a single-state AVA - such as The Rocks District - would benefit as they might have more buyers if adjacent states were allowed to label their wines with an appellation name. Additionally, the TTB says, consumers would benefit from having more accurate information on the origin of a wine if wineries in adjacent states were able to use a more specific, single state appellation of origin.

The proposed rule would align the requirements for using a single state appellation of origin with the existing requirements for using a ‘state’ appellation of origin. At present, wineries may label their wines with a state appellation if they are in an adjacent state. For example, wineries in Oregon that use fruit from Washington may bottle their wines as ‘Washington’ but not with a more specific, Washington-located appellation. If this proposed rule is approved, Oregon and Idaho wineries, for example, would be able to use single state, Washington appellation labels and visa versa.

Notably, the proposed rule change would not apply to multi-state appellations. That is to say, winemakers in Washington, California, Nevada, and Idaho - for example - would be able to use The Rocks District on their labels as it is a single state appellation and they are in an adjacent state. However, wineries in California, Nevada, and Idaho would not be able to use Walla Walla Valley as it is a multi-state appellation. The TTB states that the rationale for this was to keep the changes within the scope of the comments made on The Rocks District appellation proposal. Additionally, multi-state appellations already have flexibility in where wines are produced.

The effects of this rule change would be far reaching, particularly for Northwest producers. At present, numerous wineries in Washington, Oregon, and Idaho source grapes from adjacent states to take advantage of where certain grapes grow best. However, due to existing laws, they are currently often forced to use more generic appellation labels. For example, Oregon-based Sineann labels its Block One Cabernet Sauvignon from Champoux Vineyard (pictured above) with the more generic 'Columbia Valley' as it cannot use the more specific 'Horse Heaven Hills'. If the rule change were accepted, this would no longer be the case.

The comment period for the proposed rule ends April 10^th.

Washington produces record 227,000 tons of wine grapes in 2014

2014 was once again a year for the record books in Washington, with the state producing 227,000 tons of wine grapes. This was an increase of 8% over the previous year, though the number was less than the 240,000 tons initially forecast.

Production of white wine grapes shot up 16% with much of this increase accounted for by Riesling, which increased a whopping 26% from 2013. Riesling became Washington's most produced grape variety in 2014 at 50,500 tons, eclipsing Chardonnay (43,000 tons) and Cabernet Sauvignon (42,200).

After two successive vintages where Washington had tilted toward red wine grape production, the dramatic increase in Riesling production put white grape varieties (119,300 tons) firmly ahead of reds (107,700 tons) in 2014. Presumably some of the increased production can be attributed to the warmth of the season with growers hanging larger crops, though increased plantings in some areas - particularly the Ancient Lakes - may also be a factor.

Red wine grape production meanwhile increased a modest 1%. Cabernet Sauvignon production dipped slightly from 42,600 tons in 2013 to 42,400 tons in 2014. Other varieties showed modest increases or remained at their 2013 production levels.

Grenache continued to be the state's most expensive grape variety at an average of $1,674 per ton compared to the $1,110 average for all varieties. These initial production numbers reported by the USDA are subject to revision in July.

Northwest Wine Round-up February 1st to 7th 2015

A round-up of stories on Northwest wine from February 1^st to 7^th 2015. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

Shanken Daily News writes about Oregon wine. Read part two here. They also write about Drinkspace.

Memphis City Magazine writes about Pinot Noir by the growler.

Bloomberg writes about a $300 Oregon Pinot Noir.

Steamboat Today (CO) writes about Washington wine.

The Houston Chronicle writes about the Willamette Valley.

At Wine Spectator, Harvey Steiman writes about coffee and wine.


From the blogosphere…

Terroirist writes about thoughts on Walla Walla winemaker interviews.

The Gray Report writes that The Rocks District’s approval will change the image of Oregon.

AgInfo.net writes about Washington wines on the map. They also write about the Grape Growers meeting.

The Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman writes about the closing of Mannina.

Wagon Wine writes part III about wine economics.

Great Northwest Wine writes that the Cascade snowpack continues to shrink. They also write about Gamache Vintners, Alexandria Nicole Cellars, Washington Merlot, and The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater.

Snooth writes about the Washington State Wine Awards. They also write that the Oregon wine industry is showing growth.

Triple Pundit writes about sustainable wineries.

Write for Wine writes about the Columbia Crest reserve wines.

Zinfandel Chronicles writes about the 2009 Force Majeure Collaboration Series III.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about weddings in Woodinville.

Jameson Fink talks with Henri Schock of Bottlehouse.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Valentine’s Day celebrations across Washington. William also writes about the Milbrandt Brother’s Blend.

Vindulge writes about the Oregon Chardonnay Symposium. Mary also writes about Gewurztraminer.

The Examiner writes about Davenport Cellars.


From the locals…

The Columbian writes about the Washington State Wine Award winners.

Good Fruit Grower writes about the first Washington wine research program.  They also write about Owen Roe.

WKNO writes about Valentine’s Day wines.

Eugene Daily News writes about Brandborg.

Oregon Live writes about Bow & Arrow.

KEPRTV writes about the new Wine Science Center.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Lake Chelan. They also write about Maryhill.

Seattle Metropolitan writes about the Corvus Cuvee (article by yours truly).

Eugene Weekly writes about wines for your honey.

The Seattle Times writes about wine and romance.

KING 5 writes about Willows Lodge.

KAPP writes that tourism numbers are on the rise.

The Walla Walla Union Bulletin writes that Alaska will add a Saturday night flight to Walla Walla.

The Tri-City Herald writes about The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater.

The Statesman Journal writes about Coria Estates.


That’s all folks!

Northwest Wine Round-up January 22nd to 31st 2015

Buckle your seat belts for a round-up of stories on Northwest wine from January 22nd to 31st. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

At Wine Spectator Harvey Steiman writes about Helen Keplinger consulting at Force Majeure. He also writes about thorny brambles versus sunny fruit.

Atlanta Magazine writes about Oregon Pinot Noir.

MainLine Today writes about 10 great wines to BYOB with several Northwest mentions.

The New Hampshire Union Leader writes about the 2012 Adelsheim Pinot Noir.

Salt Lake City Weekly writes about Chateau Ste. Michelle.

The Pittsburgh Tribune writes about Washington wine.

The Kane County Chronicle (Chicago area) writes about Washington wine.

Florida Today recommends Washington wines for Super Bowl parties.

Shanken Daily News writes about Ste. Michelle’s shipments rising 5% in 2014.


From the blogosphere…

Wine Searcher writes that Oregon wine is blazing a trail.

Palate Press writes about a sparkling wine movement in the Pacific Northwest.

Terroirist interviews Dan Wampfler of Dunham Cellars. They also write about Washington State wine reviews and interview Paul Gregutt.

Great Northwest Wine writes about the Washington State Wine Awards. They also write that Washington continues to attract California winemaking stars, talk football and wine with Drew Bledsoe, celebrating Walla Walla Valley Merlot, Oregon wineries taking the Pinot Camp concept to New Hampshire, and Yakima Valley wineries embracing a new secret crush tasting.

Huffington Post writes about the Dusted Valley Petite Sirah.

Zinfandel Chronicles writes about the 2009 Betz La Serenne.

Jameson Fink writes about the Youngberg Hill Pinot Noirs.

Northwest Wine Anthem writes that Chelan celebrates with bubbles.

Lucha Vino writes about a Washington Syrah vs a Barossa Shiraz.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about upcoming events.

Table Talk Northwest writes about the Washington State Wine Awards.  They also write about Yakima Valley wine, hops, and cider.

Vindulge writes about sparkling wine from the Pacific Northwest.

The Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman asks who is responsible for making wine snobby. Catie also writes about the Henry Earl Estates Malbec.

Wagon Wine writes part II on wine economics.


From the locals…

The Seattle Times writes about Snipes Mountain.

Oregon Live writes about Evening Land’s high scoring wine.

Capital Press writes that Oregon’s wine industry packs a surprising punch.

The Union Bulletin writes that sky is the limit for Walla Walla’s airport. They also write about a new book on Walla Walla Valley wine.

Bellingham Herald writes about Washington wine. They also write that Pinot Noir drives the Oregon wine industry.

The Statesman Journal writes that Oregon’s wine industry packs a growing economic punch.

North Kitsap Herald writes about Pepper Bridge.

The Tri-City Herald writes about a $3.2M donation for a fermentation system at WSU. They also write about Celebrate Walla Walla.

KIMA TV writes about Yakima Valley Tourism being awarded the 2015 Tourism Champion award.

Good Fruit Grower writes about Analemma’s Steven Thompson and Kris Fade. They also write about predicting cold hardiness of grapes.

Eugene Daily News writes about the Argyle Chardonnay.

Seattle Met writes about the Flying Trout The Brook Blend.

Portland Monthly writes about Oregon’s youngest winemaker.


That’s all folks!

The Rocks District appellation set for approval

On Monday, February 9th approval for The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater appellation will be published in the Federal Register. The Rocks District will be the first sub-appellation of the Walla Walla Valley. The region, which is wholly located on the Oregon side of the valley, will be Oregon's 18th federally approved wine growing region.

Wineries using Rocks District fruit may seek approval for labels bearing the appellation name 30 days after publication in the Federal Register. However, at present federal law stipulates that a wine must be 'fully finished' in the state in which the appellation lies in order to use the designation. This would exclude Washington-based Walla Walla Valley wineries (as well as others in the state) from using The Rocks District designation on their labels.

The Alcohol and Tax Trade Bureau (TTB), which oversees the appellation application process, will propose a rule regarding how to address this. This proposal will also be published on February 9th and will have a 60-day comment period.

Read a Focus Report on The Rocks District.
Read an article I authored in Wine Enthusiast on The Rocks District.
Read an article I authored in Seattle Metropolitan.