Five Wines Under $15 - April 2013

It tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines with a baker’s Five Wines Under $15.

The release of the 2012 rosés is a sure sign that spring is officially upon us. The first comes from Julia’s Dazzle. A side project from Long Shadows founder Allen Shoup and winemaker Gilles Nicault, it’s mostly Pinot Gris with a splash of Sangiovese added. Contact with Pinot Gris’ dark skins gives the wine its appealing color. The wine is made in a rich, full style. Look for a full review in an upcoming issue of Wine Enthusiast.

The next rosé comes from Renegade Wine Co, a project from Trey Busch at Sleight of Hand Cellars that pairs quality juice with rock bottom prices. The 2010 Renegade Rosé is a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault. It’s bone dry with a tart blast of acid. A perfect summer sipper at a price that can’t be beat.

Meanwhile, the Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Pinot Gris strikes an exquisite balance of cooler climate sites (30% is from Evergreen Vineyard) and warmer locations. It has complexity of fruit flavors and Evergreen’s hallmark acidity and minerality. This was my selection for my monthly Virtual Tasting in March. At the end of these tastings (which take place on Twitter) I ask the attendees whether they would buy the wine again or not. This became just the fourth unanimous “Buy” wine in all the years I’ve been conducting these tastings and is a gorgeous summer wine.

The final wines come from Giant Wine Co., a joint venture between winemakers Chris Gorman (Gorman Winery) and Mark McNeilly (Mark Ryan Winery). These are all appealing, accessible wines at prices that make them hard to resist. The Ghost in the Machine Riesling – on the sweeter side of off-dry but with well balanced acidity – comes in at a shocking $7. The two reds, both mostly Syrah with just a splash of Cabernet, at only $13. These latter two wines will no doubt provide further evidence that if you put Syrah on the label, some consumers shy away. Put Red Wine and consumers will flock to it. At these prices? Who cares? Drink up.

Read previous Five Wines Under $15 here.

Julia’s Dazzle Pinot Gris Rose Horse Heaven Hills 2012 $15
NR (Not Reviewed) Pale salmon. This is a lightly aromatic wine with melon and strawberry. It’s full bodied with a textured, viscous feel and rich flavors and citrus twist on the finish. Note: Review will subsequently appear in Wine Enthusiast.

Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2012 $13
(Excellent) A moderately aromatic wine with pear, melon, citrus, and spice. The palate is medium bodied with tart, crisp green apple and white grapefruit flavors and a mineral filled finish. A delightful bottle of wine that screams for summer. 100% Pinot Gris. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.5% alcohol. 9,000 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Renegade Wine Co Rosé Columbia Valley 2012 $10
 (Good) Pale salmon colored. Subtle aromas of watermelon, strawberry, and citrus. The palate is dry and tart with a blast of acid that carries it through on the finish. 76% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault. 12.5% alcohol. Recommended

Giant Wine Co The Ghost in the Machine Riesling Columbia Valley 2011 $7
(Good) An aromatically appealing wine with grapefruit rind, white peach, and mineral notes. Its off-dry leaning towards sweet with tart fruit flavors and a cleansing, acidic finish. 100% Riesling. Roza Hills, Olsen Brothers, Milbrandt, and Evergreen vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 11.5% alcohol. Sample provided by winery. Recommended

Giant Wine Co The Ghost in the Machine Red Wine Columbia Valley 2010 $13
 (Good) A moderately aromatic wine with smoke, bacon, tire rubber, plum, and a lemon twist. The palate has medium bodied, sweet fruit flavors and soft tannins. An enjoyable easy drinker. 95% Syrah, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 12 months in French and American oak. 14.4% alcohol. 3,700 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Giant Wine Co The Ghost of 413 Red Wine Columbia Valley 2010 $13
 (Good) A roasty, toasty wine with notes of dark cherry, bacon, game, and smoke. The palate has plush fruit flavors and soft tannins. Drink up! 14.2% alcohol. 98% Syrah, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 12 months in French and American oak. 3,700 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Washington Wine Round-up April 15th to April 21st 2013

A round up of stories on Washington wine from April 15th to April 21st.  Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country...

The Coloradoan.com writes Happy Hour: Charles & Charles red blend a great table wine to keep on hand.


From around the blogosphere...

Paul Gregutt shares Eric Asimov raids my cellar part two – the winner.

Lucha Vino presents Toro, Toro, Toro! Tinta de Toro v. Washington.

NW Wine Anthem writes about Soos Creek.

Great Northwest Wine reviews Nodland Cellars 2009 Avant-guard Carmenere, Walla Walla Valley, $28 and Gordon Family Estate 2010 Tradition, Columbia Valley, $40. Plus, coverage on Washington wine grape growers dodge spring frost.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about upcoming events.

The Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman reviews L’Ecole Nº 41 Chenin Blanc 2012 and Waters Winery Rosé 2012.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about the Two Mountain Chardonnay. William also writes about the Charles and Charles Rose and McKinley Springs Horsepower.

Eat Seattle gives a Taste Washington recap.

PlumDeluxe writes about getting a taste of Washington wine.

Zinfandel Chronicles writes about visit to FIGGINS Wine Studio.

Seattle Metropolitan gives a weekly wine pick from yours truly, the Julia’s Dazzle.

The Sun Break writes that climate change may put Washington wineries on the march.

Have We No Wine Here? writes about Rulo.

Wine Peeps writes about the 2012 Canoe Ridge Vineyard Expedition Pinot Gris.


From the locals...

The Walla Walla Union Bulletin reports Flying Trout winemaker to step down May 1.

Wine Press Northwest writes about Walla Walla's Reininger reaching new heights.

The Yakima Herald looks at The Hogue Cellars: Prosser winery’s workforce among largest in state and Yakima Valley wineries: Few employees, but big business.

The Edmonds Beacon shows where Washington State stands in nothing to whine about in this class.

The Spokesman Review reports WSU class offers a taste of wine for those over 21.

KPLU writes about Paul Gregutt’s Waitsburg Cellars.

The Seattle Post Intelligencer visits the San Juan Vineyards… Small Town Winery Puts Out Big Time Whites.

The Mercer Island Reporter shares a visit tasting wines in Woodinville.

The Bellingham Herald investigates many wines worth a try from Seattle's Taste Washington.

The Columbian writes about a bill to allow beer and wine at spas and theatres.

The Walla Walla Union Bulletin writes about Ashley Trout stepping down as winemaker at Flying Trout.


That's all folks!

The most important thing in the tasting room isn't always the wine

The following article was written by Ryan Messer. Read other articles from Messer here.

Over the years, I have stepped foot in hundreds of wineries, tasting rooms, or co-ops in Washington State. Each time, the person working at the tasting room truly makes or breaks the experience and can even impact perceptions of the wines. Here are three people who have stood out for positively influencing my experiences over the years.

The first person I think of is Steve Wells of Gramercy Cellars. Appropriately titled "Director of Awesome" on the winery’s website, Steve is one of those people you are instantly drawn to. He was a sommelier in New York City before moving to Walla Walla to dive into the other end of the wine business. Steve is knowledgeable but is also down to earth and seems as comfortable sharing stories about family and friends as he is describing the leather, white pepper or citrus in the glass. His polished dome and bearded face remind me of a white Isaac Hayes - and he's cool enough to probably pull off his own rendition of "Shaft".

While some tasting rooms in Washington will have a dedicated tasting room manager like Steve, others will feature the winemaker as co-host like Trey Busch of Sleight of Hand Cellars. When I first visited the winery, I heard something in the background I've never heard in a tasting room before. When I asked what was on the turntable - yes you read that correct – and was informed, "It's Scorpions Saturday!" I knew I was in the right place.

Busch allows people to thumb through crate after crate of vinyl and make playlist recommendations. I can't remember what we chose I was so taken in. During the visit, we discussed Busch’s album collection nearly as much as the wines he was pouring. Of course, if you want to meet Busch, make sure to check Pearl Jam's touring schedule before planning a trip to Sleight of Hand (he is possibly their biggest fan).

Another winemaker who frequently runs the tasting room and makes quite an impression is Ryan Crane of Kerloo Cellars. The first time I met Crane, my friends and I unintentionally walked in five minutes after closing to a full tasting room (we thought they closed an hour later). When we offered to return the following day, Crane balked and rather than hurrying us through the lineup, he even subsequently asked, "Would you like to try the first wine I made?" We were enchanted.

Of course, when visiting a winery, it’s very much about the wine, but it’s also about making the tasting experience memorable. Personally, at the best wineries, I don't need a photo to remind me of the visit as the person at the tasting room leaves as much of a lasting impression as the wines.

Tonight! April Virtual Tasting - 2012 Renegade Rosé Columbia Valley

The April Virtual Tasting wine is tonight! The wine is the Renegade Wine Co. 2012 Rosé. This wine retails for $10 and is widely available. The tasting will take place from 7-8pm Pacific.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery.

2. Tweet your comments about the wine on Twitter between 7 and 8pm Pacific using the hashtag #renegadewine. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport.

Sonoris Wines focuses on family

The Washington wine industry is all about small, family wineries, and one winery that puts a particular emphasis on this point is Sonoris Wines.

Sonoris winemaker Hillary Sjolund started out as a premedical student at U.C. Davis. One of the prerequisites was to take a class in the agricultural division. Sjolund’s choice? Introduction to Winemaking. It would be a fateful decision.

“From the first or second class I was like, ‘Wait. You can get a degree in this?’” Sjolund says. “’Drink wine, eat food, travel and still do science? Sign me up for this!’” From that moment, Sjolund dove in head first, ultimately graduating with a degree in fermentation sciences, which included brewing and distillation (“I loved distillation!” she says enthusiastically).

While still in school, at the tender age of twenty, she went to a job fair and was hired by Pine Ridge to work as a harvest hand and lab technician. “That’s all I wanted to do was be at that winery,” she says after that. “By the time I graduated from Davis, I was in my third harvest at Pine Ridge.”

Upon graduation, without a full time position available at Pine Ridge, Sjolund headed down to Chile to work in the wine industry there. One of the people she met was famed consultant Pascal Mardy. When Mardy was subsequently hired to consult at Pine Ridge and had an assistant winemaker position to fill, he asked Sjolund to join.

In 2006, she was recruited from Pine Ridge to work at Distefano Winery in Woodinville, where she remained until the end of 2010. Sjolund says of her decision to start her own winery at that point, “It was a now or never kind of moment.”

Sjolund decided to name the winery Sonoris after the word ‘sonor’ – to resonate. The focus of the winery’s branding is family. “I didn’t get here by myself,” Sjolund says. “My family has had a lot to do with my success. I figured, why not honor the people who got you where you are?”

The winery’s logo contains four squares that represent the family logo. “Each square represents a person – mom, dad, grandma, and grandpa,” Sjolund says. The label images each have vintage pictures of her family.

There are two whites, both fermented in stainless steel. The ‘Verna Mae’ Viognier is named after Sjolund’s grandmother, who passed away in 1994 (Erratum: Verna Mae is alive and well!), with the label showing her high school picture. The ‘Pure Grace’ Sauvignon Blanc label shows a picture of Sjolund’s mother in 1972 when she was getting ready to go out on a date, standing in front of the skin of a moose she shot up in Alaska.

For the reds, ‘Burney’s Blend’ is named for Sjolund’s grandfather and has a picture of him row cropping peas in 1935. He is now 97 years old, and Sjolund says she receives a phone call from him weekly asking how she is doing and how much wine she has sold.

‘The Source’ meanwhile has a picture of Sjolund’s father taken in 1965 in front of the family grocery store in California. “My dad is the source of everything,” Sjolund says simply of the name. “I talk to my dad every day. He’s been a big sounding board. He’s been a great source of strength and consistency.”

To help pay the bills while she gets the winery started – and also reflecting her love of science - Sjolund started EnoMama in June of 2011. The company does everything from vineyard sampling through quality control. It currently services approximately 20 different winery clients. Sjolund runs the operation out of Richland where her production facility is located.

While much of the focus of Sjolund’s new winery is on her family, she does have one wine not named after her ancestors - ‘Mia Corsa.’ “My course, my journey,” Sjolund explains. A blend of Petit Verdot and Merlot, she says, “This wine is something I have been on a quest to make for quite some time. This is my wine that I’m doing for me.”

Sonoris Wines produces approximately 1,000 cases annually.

Picture courtesy of Cheese Louise. 

Sonoris Pure Grace Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley 2011 $18
 (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine full of citrus peel, lime, and light lees notes. The palate is medium-plus bodied, very clean, pure, drawn out with tart, white grapefruit flavors and a lingering finish. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Gamache Vineyard. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 14.1% alcohol. Approximately 130 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Sonoris Verna Mae Viognier Columbia Valley 2011 $22
 (Good/Excellent) An aromatic wine with peach, honeysuckle, melon, and floral notes. The palate is medium-plus bodied with a rich, clean feel. 78% Viognier, 22% Roussanne. 13.3% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Sonoris The Source Merlot Columbia Valley 2009 $30
 (Good) An aromatically intriguing wine with carob, red and black fruit, toast, and very light, high toned herbal tones. The palate has surprisingly restrained fruit and chocolate flavors along with grainy tannins leading to a vanilla-filled finish. 75% Merlot (Red Heaven, Scooteney Flats) and 25 Cabernet Franc (Champoux). Aged in French oak (60% new). 15.0% alcohol. 94 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Sonoris Burney’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $40
 (Good/Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with high toned dried herbs, pencil lead, and cherry. The palate has a mixture of boldness and restraint with the tannins just a touch dry. 94% Cabernet Sauvignon (Blue Mountain), 3% Merlot (Weinbau), and 1% Petit Verdot (Dionysus). Aged in French oak (30% new). 14.8% alcohol. 198 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Sonoris Mia Corsa Red Wine Columbia Valley 2010 $40
 (Excellent) An aromatically restrained wine with freshly tilled soil, floral notes, cherry cola, vanilla, and pencil lead. The palate is full flavored with restrained fruit and firm but well integrated tannins and a vanilla filled finish. 63% Petit Verdot (Blue Mountain) and 37% Merlot (Weinbau). Sample provided by winery.

Sonoris Red Wine Red Mountain 2010 $40 (500ml)
(Excellent) An aromatic wine with exotic spices and blueberry. The palate is deliciously rich and sweet with chalky tannins. 33% Touriga Nacional, 34% Souza, 33% Tinta Cao. 18% alcohol. 6% Residual Sugar.

Tasting Note Database Updated

The Tasting Note Database has been updated to the present date. See an explanation of the fields here.

Enjoy!

Washington Wine Round-up April 8th to April 14th 2013

A round up of stories on Washington wine from April 8 to April 14.  Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country...

The Western Farm Press reports on the quest for the perfect wine serving temperature.


From around the blogosphere...

Paul Gregutt writes an opening farewell. He also writes that it’s time to wake up and smell the rosés and Eric Asimov raiding his cellar.

Northwest Wine Anthem writes about a Friday find.

Great Northwest Wine looks at Yakima Valley’s violent, fascinating geological past. They also show  why cab is king in Washington wine country, writes about Yakima’s geological past, and uncover how Fidelitas’ Charlie Hoppes refines Red Mountain focus. Read their latest wine reviews here.

The Wild Walla Walla Woman shares the Dowsett Family Mourvèdre - 2010. Catie also writes about the Dowsett Family Mourvedre and about Julia's Dazzle 2012.

The Zinfindel Chronicles investigates The Great Whites of Washington. He also documents a visit to the Figgins wine studio.

Wine for Normal People writes about a trip to Woodinville.

Wine Life Radio talks about Washington wine.

Lucha Vino brings to the ring Washington Graciano v. Navarra.

The Washington Vine writes about the Desert Wind Viognier.

Writing for Seattle Metropolitan’s Sauced blog, I write about Kevin White Winery.

Plum Deluxe writes about Washington wine.


From the locals...

The Columbian reports that the Washington House OKs wine and beer at spas, theaters.

The Spokesman-Review said Small theaters get Senate’s approval to sell beer, wine.

KNDU TV NBC Yakima, Tri-Cities, Walla Walla and Hermiston writes that student interest growing in wine industry and scholarships.

The Everett Daily Herald talks about Seven Falls in wine label a nod to river's history.
The Seattle Times writes about a legal way for 18-year-olds to taste alcohol (and learn).

The News Tribune writes that expanded access to liquor raises questions about consequences.

The Bellingham Herald writes about some of the best wines from Taste Washington.

Kitsap Sun writes about Taste Washington.


That's all folks!

April Virtual Tasting - 2012 Renegade Rosé Columbia Valley

The April Virtual Tasting wine is the Renegade Wine Co. 2012 Rosé. This wine retails for $10 and is widely available. The tasting will take place on Wednesday April 24th 7-8pm Pacific.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery.

2. Tweet your comments about the wine on Twitter between 7 and 8pm Pacific on the specified date using the hashtag #renegadewine. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport.

JM Cellars Moves Toward Screwcaps on High End Reds

For years, many Washington wineries have shied away from screwcaps and other alternative closures. While some, including Hogue, Syncline, Northwest Totem Cellars, and Dusted Valley Vintners have gone all in, others have steered clear or only put their white wines or lower end reds under screwcap. Count winemaker John Bigelow at JM Cellars among the few who have taken the leap.

Bigelow first began thinking about using screwcaps after meeting with writer Paul Gregutt back in 2008. After estimating his rate of corked wines at one to three percent, Bigelow was asked by Gregutt if that was an acceptable level. “I told him the answer is definitely, ‘No,” he recalled. Bigelow soon began to consider alternatives.

He started out by doing research and talking with people at other wineries already using various alternative closures. One of those people was Corey Braunel at Dusted Valley Vintners. “Corey is a big believer in Stelvin (screwcaps), and he gave me confidence to move forward with our initial use of Stelvin screw tops on our whites three years ago,” Bigelow said. He subsequently added the Bramble Bump Red – the winery’s entry-level red wine - two years ago.

For the 2010 vintage, however, Bigelow made an interesting decision for his high-end red wines. He bottled half under screwcap and half under cork and gave his customers visiting the tasting room the choice. What have the results been so far?

“We are seeing roughly 80% choosing screw tops,” Bigelow said, attributing part of that to customer education. “There are still people who look at screw tops as a sign of cheap wine, but the attitude is definitely changing.”

In addition educating his customers, Bigelow has also worked with his staff, writing a brief informational document. Part of it reads, “Each type of enclosure has its pluses and minuses. We feel the screw top has only one disadvantage; opening a wine with a screw top lacks the tradition and ritual of popping a cork. We feel the quality of wine is more important than popping a potentially tainted cork.”

While Bigelow has been pleased with the response from his customers thus far, he notes that screw tops are not perfect. “Over three years of using the closure we have had four bottles of wine that had oxidation problems associated with the closure having a dent that allowed oxygen to enter the bottle,” he said. “Are four bottles out of roughly 66,000 (<.01%) an acceptable rate of failure?  My answer is ‘No.’ We will continue to strive for zero defects.”

Bigelow couldn’t have picked a better time to put his wines under screwcap as the 2010 reds reviewed below are nothing if not ageworthy. For Bigelow, the success of his 2010 wines all starts back the vineyard.

“On a cool year (like 2010), the winemakers who spend the most time in the vineyards and understand how to manage the year correctly will have great wines,” he said. Bigelow, whose first vintage was the cool 1999, said, “The lessons I learned back then regarding early pruning, low crop yields, water restraint, and picking patience in a cold year all went into our efforts in 2010.”

JM Cellars Bramble Bump Red Red Wine Columbia Valley 2010 $25
(Good) An aromatically appealing wine with dark cherry, cinnamon, and toasty oak spices. The palate has firm tannins with a wash of alcohol toward the finish. 58% Merlot, 19% Petit Verdot, 16% Malbec, and 7% Cabernet Franc. Katherine Leone, Margaret’s, Kiona, and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 18 months in French and American oak (70% new). 14.9% alcohol. 675 cases produced.

JM Cellars Tre Columbia Valley 2010 $45
(Good/Excellent) A moderately aromatic wine with high toned spices, cherry, cocoa powder, raspberry, ground herbs, and earth. The palate packs a mouthful of intense, tightly wound fruit flavors with somewhat dry, grippy tannins that still need some time to stretch their legs. Give this one some time in the cellar to see it at its best. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 10% Syrah. Klipsun (48%, old vine), Ciel du Cheval (24%), Alder Ridge (14%), Kiona (10%) and Stillwater vineyards. 14.4% alcohol. 425 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

JM Cellars Longevity Columbia Valley 2010 $45
(Excellent) Very closed up at present but opens to reveal a lot of aromatic complexity with cedar, mocha, cherry, herbs, violets, and toasty spices. The palate is bold, dense and packed with rich, layered cherry and herbal flavors with firm but well integrated tannins. Lingers with a chocolate filled finish. Give one to two years or decant. Merlot (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (37%), Malbec (19%), and Petit Verdot (4%). Stillwater Creek, Alder Ridge, Windrow, and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. Aged 21 months in French oak (70% new). 14.5% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

JM Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2010 $38
 (Excellent) A brooding, mineral laden wine with peppery spice, smoked meat, blueberry, and floral notes. The palate has bold fruit flavors with firm, grainy tannins and a warm finish. 100% Syrah. Klipsun and Stillwater Creek (80%) vineyards. Aged 18 months in Russian and French oak (50% new). 15.0% alcohol. 225 cases produced.  Sample provided by winery.

JM Cellars Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley 2010 $45
(Excellent) An aromatic wine with earthy funk, mineral, cracked pepper, chocolate, and herbal notes with the fruit dialed back before huckleberry emerges as it opens up. Starts out quite compact but unfurls with soft, sultry fruit flavors. 100% Syrah. Aged 18 months in Russian and French oak (50% new). 14.9% alcohol. 138 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Washington Wine Round-up April 1st to April 7th 2013

A round up of stories on Washington wine from April 1 to April 7.  Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country...

Wines and Vines writes about the Northwest focusing on wine profiles.

Bloomberg writes that Washington wines pack a high alcohol wallop and little else (read my response here).

Beverage Daily.com writes that US wines talk to the Chinese, with an American twang: Maryhill Winery.

From around the blogosphere...

Paul Gregutt writes about a left hook to Washington's jaw. He also writes that the new Cayuse releases see the bionic frog at his most elegant.

The Gray Report writes that Washington makes great Gewurztraminer.

Sips And the City shares 31 Days of Washington Wine in 140 Characters or Less.

Great Northwest Wine announces Central Washington University wine expert leaving for France. They also write about a warm spring, Washington’s presence in the U.K., and why Cabernet is king. Read recent reviews here.

Zinfindel Chronicles posts bottle notes on the 1998 Woodward Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon. They also write about the Cayuse release party.

Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman posts about Proper Wines.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Taste Washington Day 1. They also write about the Introduction to Washington Wine seminar at Taste Washington.

Lucha Vino matches Washington Tempranillo vs. Rioja.

The Wine Economist gives an imaginary guide to Washington wine.

Northwest Cork and Fork posts thoughts from Taste Washington 2013.

Write for Wine shares random Thoughts from Taste Washington-Part 2.

Washington Times writes that Bloomberg gets it wrong on Washington wine.

Nectar Tasting Room & Wine Blog writes about April events in Spokane.


From the locals...

Bellingham Herald writes that a wine benefit in Anacortes showcases amazing Washington wines. They also write about top reds from a Northwest wine competition.

The News Tribune writes about Seattle's oldest winery expanding into new frontier.

Yakima Herald says Dick Boushey cultivates the good life.

Wine Press Northwest reports warm spring wakes vines across mid-Columbia.

The Walla Walla Union-Bulletin writes that Red Mountain is expecting exponential growth.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about Cabernet Franc.

The Yakima Herald writes about Amy Mumma, director of the Central Washington University wine program, leaving.

Capital Press writes that WSU digs into science to make wine better.

The Tri-City Herald writes about the Grape Grower’s conference.

KNDO writes about J&J Winery opening in Milton-Freewater.

Wenatchee World writes about Bloomberg’s slam on Washington wine.


Leftovers (posts missed from previous weeks)…

KNDO writes that it’s a busy time for local winemakers.


That's all folks!

Pic of the Vine - April 2013

Pic of the Vine is a monthly image taken by contributor Richard Duval. See previous Pic of the Vine images here.

April’s Pic of the Vine is part riveting image, part ‘welcome to the neighborhood’ from photographer Richard Duval as another Walla Walla winery opens a Woodinville tasting room. Last month, Castillo de Feliciana Vineyard & Winery took over the former mead distiller building situated between Hollywood Hills and Matthews Estate.

Castillo’s Walla Walla home is a favorite photo subject of Duval. “Capturing the vineyard against the stark white of the Spanish styling makes for a strong image,” he notes. “I got lucky here – a hazy day that provided soft light on the early spring vines just inching toward their full green.” Click on the picture for a larger image.

Washington Wine Round-up March 22nd to 31st 2013

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from March 22nd to 31st 2013. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the world…

Journal UK writes that Washington is a happy place for grapes.


From around the country…

Wines and Vines writes about development heating up at Red Mountain.

Savannah Morning News writes that Washington is homed to skilled winemakers.

From the blogosphere…

The Gray Report writes about Avennia.

Great Northwest Wine writes about Pacific Rim expanding its brands. They also write about a reported theft at Taste Washington (this ended up not being the case, see the update here), Walla Walla having a dry start to spring, and Bartholomew pairing up with a chocolatier. See a list of their wine reviews here.

Great Wine News writes about Rotie Cellars. They also write about Hard Row to Hoe, Dumas Station, Harbinger, and Canoe Ridge.

Paul Gregutt enjoys wine and food pairings at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel and a Riesling pick of the week. He also introduces Waitsburg Cellars and writes about Waitsburg Cellars’ first review.

One Girl…One Glass writes about a weekend in the Tri-Cities. Read Part I here.


Crosscut.com writes about Yakima’s push to become Washington’s wine capital.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Pacifica. Catie also writes about the Dance Chardonnay.

The Pour Fool writes about Paul Gregutt’s Waitsburg Cellars.

WineEYak writes about a Taste Washington look at the Yakima Valley.

Lucha Vino books three cabernet sauvignon vintages from Tildio Winery in the same match. He also writes about a Washington Barbera versus one from Piemonte.

WA Wine PR gives wine drenched observations of Taste Washington.

Write for Wine writes about random thoughts from Taste Washington.

Northwest Wine Anthem gives a Friday find. They also give a state of the union on Taste Washington.

Sips and the City writes about new and notable at Taste Washington.

Wine Peeps shares highlights from Taste Washington.

Eater gives just a taste of Taste Washington.

The Washington Vine tastes Bridgepress Rosé.

Examiner.com gives a Taste Washington photo set.


From the locals…

Capital Press writes about Spanish Castle Vineyard. They also write about giving wine grapes a chance.

Puget Sound Business Journal writes about restaurants sharing the spotlight at Taste Washington.

The Bonny Lake Courier-Herald writes about a record year for grape growers.

Wine Press NW writes about Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Patterson tasting gallery opening up.

Seattle Magazine gives a Taste Washington game plan.

The Seattle Times writes about a wine bottle maker rising from the ashes.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes that Wine O’Clock is now pouring its own lineup.

The Bellingham Herald says to enjoy those white wine medal winners.

WSU New writes that tasters warm up to reds at higher temperatures.

The Seattle Times covers plans for vineyard expansion in the Red Mountain AVA.

The Everett Herald announced the winners of the Northwest Wine Competition.


Leftovers (posts missed from previous weeks)…

Wine Spectator writes about Drew Bledsoe of Doubleback pushing for changes to Massachusetts wine laws.


That’s all folks!

Bud break in eastern Washington

The 2013 growing season is officially under way this week with bud break across vineyards in eastern Washington. Sagemoor Vineyard (Chardonnay) in the Columbia Valley, DuBrul Vineyard in the Yakima Valley and Seven Hills and Windrow vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley have each reported bud break. This picture of a Nebbiolo vine comes from Windrow Vineyard courtesy of Jan Roskelley at Tero Estates. Let the season begin!

Old school! Recent print publications

The latest issue of Seattle Metropolitan magazine has an article I wrote on sparkling wines with a shout out to Treveri Cellars. Find it on newstands or read an e-copy here.

Enjoy!

Bloomberg Bloviates About A Few Washington Wines, Little Else

On April Fool’s Day (coincidence?) Bloomberg writer John Mariani published an article titled, “Washington Wines Pack High Alcohol Wallop, Little Else.” Mariani notes in the article that his impressions came from a recent visit to Seattle, and he mentions about a dozen wines and brands, some of which he apparently tried on said visit.

Now let me just say in advance that I haven’t read other articles from Mariani, and it is unwise for any writer to draw sweeping conclusions from a fly-by visit and a small sample size (right?). However, I’ll play along and say from reading this article that Mariani appears to be one of the many writers who favors hit generating headlines over articles of substance (see what I did there?).

In terms of research for the article, the bulk of it seems to have come from not one but two quick trips – one to the Washington Wine Commission’s website for story details, such as 750 wineries, $3B, 13 approved appellations, varietal experimentation, etc., and the other a brief jaunt to Seattle where Mariani proceeds to proclaim the state of the industry over a few bottles and a veal chop noteworthy enough to warrant a subheading – though not the name of the restaurant.

Much of the writing in the article is breezy, disconnected, and quaint. For example, Mariani states, “Washington has always prided itself on intense, highly tannic, high-alcohol wines that show well in their youth but often lose brightness and complexity with age.” Umm, what?

Putting aside the present, look back even fifteen years let alone forty in the industry’s history and one will be hard pressed to find any wines that match that description, so the use of the word “always” seems odd here. Additionally, I’m not sure any winery anywhere would “pride itself” on wines that show well in their youth but not with age let alone an entire industry. But perhaps this is just sloppy writing (or editing), which brings me to…

Pictured at left in the article, Chaz Point – one of the wineries mentioned - is listed incorrectly as Chazz Point (unless that bottle shot is missing its second ‘z’!). Can’t say I’ve heard of them personally but Mariani liked the wine, so we’ll let that wine represent the industry, right? One of the paragraphs disparages a specific 2003 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon but fails to even provide the winery’s name. Presumably, based on other things Mariani writes, it’s Quilceda Creek but the omission of the name seems unintentional.

Mariani writes, “Washington vintners have a knack for quirky names for their wines, like Boom Boom, Livewire and Jigsaw.” This seems an odd point to mention in a short article that says so little, especially since Washington does this no more than any other New World wine region. Perhaps it’s just another way to trivialize Washington wine but it seems trite. However, unless there’s a Washington winery using the Jigsaw moniker (in which case, lawyer up!), Jigsaw is an Oregon Pinot Noir from Ransom, not a Washington wine. Overall, errors and inaccuracies like these make the article seem specious and unbefitting of a outlet like Bloomberg.

Does Washington have an alcohol problem as Mariani posits? Yes and no. Yes, there are many wines from Washington where the alcohol (and oak) levels are higher than many people such as Mariani would like to see. But no, no more so than many New World (and even many Old World) wine regions. That is to say, it is a problem in some producers but not a uniquely Washington problem. This world-wide trend has been written about exhaustively over the last decade, perhaps even by the likes of Mariani himself.

It’s notable – but not noted by Mariani, however - that there are many producers in Washington and elsewhere that are bucking that trend. Washington has a growing and diverse wine industry where many winemakers are pouring their heart and souls into trying to create wines of distinction. Many of them are succeeding and are not making wines characterized by the broad strokes Mariani paints. They deserve better. To cast them all aside on the basis of a few bottles on a short visit is not just intellectually lazy, it’s a disservice to these wineries and to the entire industry, let alone to Bloomberg’s readers (and publisher).

Just as wineries shouldn’t be convinced that bolder is always better, writers shouldn’t either. Mariani’s readers would be better served by ratcheting down the attention grabbing headlines. Instead, offer articles of work and substance before making sweeping, potentially damaging proclamations about an entire industry. You wouldn’t, for example, want me to make faulty generalizations about the overall quality of Bloomberg based on one shoddy article would you?

Summary of Posts for March 2013

Below is a summary of posts for March 2013.

Summary of Posts for February 2013

Washington Wine Round-up February 22^nd to 28^th 2013

Pic of the Vine March 2013

Wine Country Porn from Napa Valley

An Introduciton to Viticulture and Enology at Washington State University

Washington Wine Round-up March 1^st to 7^th 2013

The 2011 Whites and 2010 Reds of Januik Winery & Novelty Hill

Star Somm Rajat Parr Talks Millennials, Making Wine Less Intimidating, and Washington Wine

Seven Steps for Wine Touring When You Have Children

Taste Washington 2013 Tips and Tricks

Washington Wine Round-up March 8^th to 14^th 2013

March Virtual Tasting ’12 Milbrandt Vineyard Pinot Gris

Washington Wine Round-up March 15^th to 21^st 2013

Five Wines to Ring in Spring

Fresh Sheet March 27^th 2013

Tonight! March Virtual Tasting ’12 Milbrandt Vineyard Pinot Gris

Seattle Kitchen Interview