A look back at 2011 in Washington wine

Well folks, 2011 is down to its last few hours. Below is a look back at some of the things that happened this past year in Washington wine. For more on the year that was and the year to come, pick up the Winter Edition of Washington Tasting Room Magazine where I write about trends in 2011 and predictions for 2012.

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By far the biggest news of the year was the privatization of liquor sales and changes in wine distribution laws in Washington. Stay tuned as these changes continue to take effect next year.

The Washington wine industry continued to grow in 2011 with over 740 wineries currently bonded in the state. Washington also received its 12^th federally approved viticultural area, the Naches Heights AVA.

At the beginning of the year, the USDA announced that Washington reached a record level of grape production in 2010 at 160,000 tons. The state also exceeded 40,000 acres of grapes planted. 2011 numbers will be available in early 2012.

2011 saw a number of changes within the industry. Pacific Rim was sold, as was Betz Family Winery. Meanwhile Precept Wine Brands acquired Canoe Ridge and Sagelands. Trio Vintners also had an ownership change. E.B. Foote was sold in pieces. Additionally, Whitman Cellars was seized by the bank. The industry also saw some consolidation with Odom-Southern purchasing Seattle-based distributor Cavatappi.

The infrastructure for the state’s wine industry also continued to expand. The Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center received a federal grant. The Washington Wine Commission committed $7.4M toward a Wine Science Center at WSU.

The Walla Walla Wine Alliance hired a new director, while executive director Robin Pollard of the Washington Wine Commission announced her resignation effective at the end of the year. The Commission hopes to have a new executive director in place near the end of the first quarter.

Washington wines continued to garner attention. Quilceda Creek and Long Shadows wines were served at a White House State Dinner. Treveri Cellars’ sparkling wines were also served at State Department events.

Critically, the accolades continued from the major publications. Washington had 16 wines that received scores of 95 points or higher by critic Harvey Steiman from Wine Spectator – ‘Classic’ in the magazine’s rating scale. This is compared to 17 the previous year. For perspective, a total of 66 Washington wines have ever received a score in this range from the publication, meaning half have occurred in the last two years. This is a clear sign of the exceptional string of vintages the state saw several years back as well as the overall explosion of wineries in Washington.

At Wine Enthusiast, critic Paul Gregutt gave the 2008 Cayuse Vineyards Bionic Frog a perfect score – his second ever. Overall, Wine Enthusiast gave 19 Washington wines ratings of 95 points or above.

At The Wine Advocate, critic Jay Miller gave a first perfect score to Cayuse Vineyards for the winery’s Tempranillo. Earlier this month, The Wine Advocate announced that a new critic, David Schildknecht, would be covering the Pacific Northwest starting in 2012. Stay tuned.

Meanwhile on the growing front, after a series of near perfect vintages, Washington saw its second straight cool vintage. Some fretted; other frowned; some cast stones; and others shrugged. Look for the 2011 whites to start hitting the shelves in March and April.

On the regulatory front, the Liquor Control Board clamped down on Walla Walla wineries for serving liquor to minors before having to backtrack. Yakima briefly lost its corkage free zone before getting it back. The state also started a pilot program for wine tasting at Farmer’s Markets. Meanwhile Starbucks started a pilot program for selling wine at its coffee shops.

Of course, a year of many gains also saw its losses. 2011 saw the passing of long time wine writer Bob Woehler. Glen Coogan, vice president of Northwest Operations for Ascentia Wine Estates, also passed away.

That’s all from me for 2011. I want to thank everyone for reading Washington Wine Report this year. I am sincerely grateful.

I’ll be taking a short vacation the first two weeks of 2011, although I may be posting some material ‘from the vault’ during this time as well as the occasional round-up. Look for regular new postings to resume on January 16th.

Here’s wishing everyone a Happy New Year and a great start to 2012. We’ll do it all again next year.

FIGGINS - A Family With a Storied Past and a Bright Future

Saving one of the best for last. What follows is a Focus Report on FIGGINS. Download a .pdf version of this report here. Read previous Focus Reports here.
“I believe in terroir,” winemaker Chris Figgins of Figgins Family Wine Estates says. “It’s where I spend my time and energy is thinking about vineyards and trying to express the site.”

Figgins comes from one of the first families of Washington wine. In 1974, Chris’ father Gary Figgins was working as a machinist at the Continental Can Company when he decided to plant an acre of Cabernet Sauvignon by the family home in Walla Walla. In 1977, he and his wife, Nancy, founded Leonetti Cellar.

At the time, the Washington wine industry was a mere speck. Walla Walla Valley was non-existent as a wine grape growing region. But that was all about to change, with the Figgins family playing a leading role.

Leonetti Cellar produced its first vintage in 1978. The 1978 Cabernet was entered into a competition and judged by Wine & Spirits magazine "the best Cabernet produced in America." This was the first of a long string of accolades, with Leonetti now having too many high scores and Top 100 rankings to mention.

A Father’s Dream
When Chris Figgins started college at Washington State University, he intended to study architecture and engineering. Despite the fact that the family had been running Leonetti Cellar for many years, Figgins hadn’t expressed much interest in drinking wine. Suddenly in college he found himself captivated by it. What changed? “I ran out of beer!” Figgins says with a laugh.

One day as he was thinking about a career in architecture, he had an epiphany. “If I do this, I’m going to spend my life under fluorescent lights by a computer,” he thought. Figgins, who had worked on farms, fields, and vineyards growing up, had a different idea. “I wanted to grow stuff,” he said.

Figgins made a phone call to his father. “I said to him, ‘What if I change my major to horticulture and we plant our own vineyards?’” he recalls. His father’s response was supportive but neutral, wanting to let his child make his own decision. His mother later told him that Gary Figgins cried that night when he got off the phone. It would be one of the happiest days of his life.

Chris Figgins’ first full vintage at Leonetti was 1996. Since that time the winery has transitioned to using exclusively estate fruit from the Walla Walla Valley for its wines. By 2001, Chris Figgins had assumed head winemaking responsibilities from his father.

A Son’s Dream
Though he had fulfilled his wish to move the Leonetti wines to estate vineyards, Chris Figgins had another dream – to make one wine from a single, estate vineyard. As a terroirist, the idea of expressing a specific site through a bottle of wine had tremendous appeal. “If I could start from scratch, I’d make all of our wines (at Leonetti) single vineyard wines,” Figgins says. Without this option, he began to explore other possibilities.

At first, Figgins thought about trying to make a single vineyard wine under the Leonetti label. The winery had made single vineyard wines from Seven Hills Vineyard in the past. However, Figgins felt that it didn’t quite fit with what Leonetti was currently doing. Rather, he felt the project would have to be its own winery.

Figgins says it took his parents some time to come around to the idea of starting a separate winery dedicated to a single vineyard, with the concern being that it might distract from the Leonetti brand. But the concern was about more than the brand. “I am their retirement plan!” Figgins says laughing. Once his parents’ approval was in place, there was, however, another pressing matter – finding the right site.

A Special Site
Talking with Chris Figgins, he exudes enthusiasm and knowledge about soil and vineyard science. It is clearly not just his profession but also his passion.

Figgins first came upon what is now FIGGINS Vineyard while looking for property to build a house. He got a call from a family friend who was selling off parcels of land after the passing of his father. Intriguingly, the land was a half-mile from Leonetti’s Mill Creek Upland Vineyard, at a slightly higher elevation.

The day before Thanksgiving in 2003, Chris met with his friend, who threw out a price. They shook on it. Figgins closed on the property within a week. Figgins says of the site, “When we saw this piece of land, we knew it was special.”

While the decision to purchase the land was made quickly, the process of establishing the vineyard was long and laborious. First Figgins had to purchase water rights to another piece of land and transfer it to the site, taking several years. Then the site had to be prepared for planting.

The FIGGINS Vineyard property was originally a wheat field. Figgins started by ripping the land four feet deep. He created a series of compost teas, which he brewed at Leonetti, to help restore the soil from years of wheat farming. Next came planting the vineyard.

To do this, Figgins used multiple different spacings depending on the location and varietal, angling the vineyard slightly southwest. A double cordon system was used to increase plant density, shoot density, and plant population. Figgins also used the system to open up light and airflow.

“I’m a big proponent of balance in terms of spacing,” Figgins says. “You want it to be as tight as you can get and still be in balance and no tighter.”

The vineyard is physically beautiful. The nearby hills contain some of the last wooded areas in upper Mill Creek. Figgins says that long ago, peopled used the area’s trees for target practice. The buckshot in the trees subsequently stopped them from being logged.

The rows of the vineyard have limestone posts brought in from Kansas, a tribute to the Figgins family’s roots there. There is a well house made of stone that came from a root cellar in Milton-Freewater. The building bears a plaque with a quote from Byron, “Till taught by pain, men know not water’s worth.” Figgins explains the meaning by quoting Mark Twain saying, “Whiskey is for drinking; water is for fighting over.”

Establishing Biodiversity
In creating the vineyard, Figgins put a premium on establishing biodiversity. Figgins has been at the forefront of sustainable winegrowing practices in Washington through his work with Vinea, a Walla Walla Valley organization dedicated to sustainability.

A variety of species were planted throughout the vineyard, with native plants, such as lupin and native roses, used as much as possible. Walking through the vineyard, it is resplendent with life. There are butterflies, flowers, bushes, and honeybees literally everywhere.

“We sacrificed rows and acreage to build in biodiversity,” Figgins explains. He says the goal is to keep the plants in the vineyard in a continual bloom. With pollen in the vineyard, predatory pests stay all year long.

32 acres are currently planted to Cabernet, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. The vines were planted on their own rootstock, with the first plantings in 2005. Figgins decided not to use the vineyard’s initial fruit in 2007. “Knowing I was going for a high end project, it wasn’t time,” he says, adding, “You can make great wine on young vines. It’s just more difficult.”

Due to the vineyard’s high elevation, 1,500 to 1,700 feet, it sees a 35-40 degree diurnal shift. Figgins says that, like clockwork, cold air flows down the canyons of Mill Creek each night. This helps preserve the acidity in the grapes. The vineyard has deep silt loam and receives approximately twenty-two inches of rainfall annually.

The Inaugural Release
The label design of the 2008 FIGGINS Estate Red Wine, designed by the Seattle firm Boxwood, is eye catching, sleek, and minimalistic. The label itself is white. ‘FIGGINS Walla Walla Valley’ is written in a plain font on the center of the bottle. ‘Estate Red Wine Grown and Vinified by the Figgins Family’ is in the lower part of the label. Off right is an image of a fig painted by local artist Todd Telander. The side of the label reads, “FIGGINS – ‘the son of FIG’ 13^th C Great Britain Surname.” Beneath this is information about the vineyard’s elevation and aspect.

The 2008 wine saw 22 months in barrel and one year in bottle prior to release. Figgins made approximately 900 cases in 2008 with the intent of growing the winery slowly to about 4,000 over the next decade or so.

The inaugural FIGGINS Estate Red Wine is arresting, full of earth, floral notes, and fruit aromas and flavors. The wine is simultaneously rich, structured, and light on its feet. As with the recent releases at Leonetti Cellar, this wine is very much about elegance and vineyard expression and is far from a fruit and barrel wine. It is among the more compelling wines to be released in 2011.

As the industry continues to grow and expand at an incredible rate, it is impossible not to reflect on the enormous impact the Figgins family has had on the Washington wine industry over the last thirty-five years. Tasting this wine, it seems clear that the family has only begun to leave its mark.

FIGGINS Estate Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $85
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An almost endless list of aromas including scorched earth, red and black fruit, bittersweet chocolate, floral notes, and licorice. Wound up tightly initially, the palate is dense and rich with fruit and earth flavors while remaining incredibly elegant. A seemingly endless finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Merlot. Aged 22 months in French oak (70% new). 14.3% alcohol.

Walla Walla Valley Report 2011 Part IV

Below is Part IV of a report from the Walla Walla Valley including wines from L’Ecole No 41, Woodward Canyon Winery, Abeja, K Vintners, Tero Estates, and Walla Walla Vintners. Read Part I here, Part II here, and Part III here.

L’Ecole No 41

It can sometimes be difficult for established wineries to garner the attention that the upstarts do. But there’s nothing like reintroducing yourself to your customers to change that.

2011 was a good year for L’Ecole No 41, one of Walla Walla Valley’s oldest and most highly regarded wineries. It included a successful label change, website redesign, and overall rebranding. The results have helped energize sales nationally and bring the winery additional attention. To cap things off, L’Ecole landed a spot on Wine Spectator’s annual top 100 list – at No 41 no less.

The reason for L’Ecole’s continued success is, of course, it’s commitment to continually producing high quality wines. Tasting through the lineup, the consistency in quality is amazing, as is the quality to price ratio on the wines.

The current releases include some fun wrinkles. Note that, with the rebranding, the Recess Red is gone and is now listed as Red Wine. “I figured that if Quilceda Creek had a Red Wine, we could too,” managing winemaker and co-owner Marty Clubb says jokingly. One of the standouts in the current releases is the 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet. The fruit came from the 20^th leaf from this section of the vineyard, and this 100% Cabernet is a compelling expression of valley fruit.

In other news, the Perigee Red Wine has all five Bordeaux varietals for the first time. Finally, the winery produced a wine called L’Erudite, with all proceeds going to Whitman College. This Bordeaux style blend is half from Seven Hills and half from Pepper Bridge and is a fascinating comparison to the winery’s single vineyard bottlings from these sites. “We wanted it to be a really special wine but be uniquely different,” Clubb says. As usual, they have more than succeeded.

L’Ecole No 41 Luminesce Estate White Wine Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2010 $19
Rating: + (Good) An aromatically appealing wine with apricot, light barrel spices, and a touch of citrus. The palate is rounded and creamy with a textured feel and bright acidity leading to a drawn out finish. 67% Semillon, 33% Sauvignon Blanc. 14.5% alcohol. 850 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2010 $19
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Lightly aromatic with white apple and speckled oak notes. Light bodied but spreads out across the palate with a crisp, clean feel full of apple flavors. 100% Chardonnay. Schmitt and Evergreen vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. 4,650 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) A jumble of black and blue fruit with toasty spice. The palate is full of tart fruit flavors with grippy tannins. A high QPR wine. 55% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Syrah, 5% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Aged 18 months in French and American oak. 4,200 cases produced. Recommended

L’Ecole No 41 Merlot Columbia Valley 2008 $24
Rating: + (Good) Very pretty aromas of brambly red fruit, a toasty top note, and light chocolate with the oak stealing a bit of the show at times. The palate is tart and puckering. 82% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec. Aged 18 months in oak (30% new). 14.5% alcohol. 4,400 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Estate Merlot Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically fascinating wine with earth, high toned red fruit, and chocolate. The palate is simultaneously rich and understated with focused fruit flavors and a drawn out finish. A persistent earth component makes for a mesmerizing wine. 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Aged 18 months in French oak (40% new). 14.5% alcohol. 1,100 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $29
Rating: * (Excellent) Very pretty high toned herbal notes along with black cherry and licorice on an aromatically compelling wine. The palate is delicious and fruit filled, loaded with puckering, pure cherry flavors and chalky tannins. An huge value. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bacchus, Dionysus, Stone Tree, Weinbau, Alder Ridge, Mirage, Candy Mountain, Klipsun, Pepper Bridge, and Seven Hills. Aged 22 months in oak (33% new). 14.5% alcohol. 4,600 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An earthy wine full of ripe black cherries, toast, spice box, and high toned herbal notes. The palate is elegant and seductive with soft fruit flavors and grainy tannins. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 22 months in French oak (50% new). 14.5% alcohol. 188 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

L’Ecole No 41 Perigee Red Wine Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $49
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) An aromatic wine with spice, pepper, dark fruit, and dark chocolate. The palate is firmly structured with dry, dark, silky fruit flavors. This wine needs some time to show its best. Give at least two years. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, and 4% Petit Verdot. Aged 22 months in French oak (50% new). 14.5% alcohol. 1,000 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Apogee Red Wine Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $49
Rating: * (Excellent) A very toasty, spicy, barrel forward wine. The palate is rich with dark fruit flavors. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 8% Malbec, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Aged 22 months in French oak (50% new). 14.5% alcohol. 1,250 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 L’Erudite “The Scholar” Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A very appealing, earthy wine full of rich, focused dark fruit flavors, toast, incense, and spice box. The palate is rich and fruit filled with tart, puckering flavors and firm, grainy tannins. A gorgeous wine. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec, and 2% Petit Verdot. Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge vineyards. 300 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

L’Ecole No 41 Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $24
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with spice, earth, and dark fruit. The palate is full of plump dark fruit flavors with silky tannins. Lingers on the finish. A hedonistic but very well balanced wine. 95% Syrah, 5% Grenache. Stone Tree, Bacchus, Candy Mountain, Mirage, Seven Hills, Clifton, and Alder Ridge. Aged 18 months in oak. 15.0% alcohol. 2,250 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Estate Syrah Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $36
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Leaps up from the glass with wild blueberries, game, and mineral notes. The fruit flavors are supple and refined but with a real richness with a great deal of complexity. Give 6 months. 100% Syrah. Aged 18 months in oak (40% new). 15.0% alcohol. 1,210 cases produced.


Woodward Canyon Winery

Woodward Canyon Winery is one of Walla Walla Valley’s graybeards. The winery was founded in 1981 by Rick Small and Darcey Fugman-Small. Thirty years later, after helping put Washington state and Walla Walla Valley on the map, Woodward Canyon keeps cranking out quality wines. Throughout it all, the winery is still willing to experiment, such as adding a sprinkle of Syrah and Mourvedre to their 2009 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Why? Simply to make it a better wine. Purists be damned!

While the oak gets a bit too much of a spotlight on some of the wines sampled below, Woodward Canyon remains one of Washington’s finest with a track record few can match.

Woodward Canyon Winery Chardonnay Washington State 2010 $44
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromatically arresting with spice, marzipan, and grass. The palate is textured, speckled with oak flavors. Lingers on the finish. 100% Chardonnay. Woodward Canyon Estate and Celilo vineyards. Fermented and aged in French Burgundy barrels (20% new). 14.5% alcohol. 454 cases produced. Reviewed November 18, 2011

Woodward Canyon Winery Estate Sauvignon Blanc Walla Walla Valley 2010 $26
Rating: * (Excellent) Lightly aromatic with citrus, lime zest, mineral, and gooseberry. The palate is full with great intensity and depth of flavors and bright acidity. A beautiful wine. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fermented and aged in stainless steel and neutral oak. 14.1% alcohol. 201 cases produced. Reviewed November 18, 2011

Woodward Canyon Winery Artist Series #17 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State 2008 $49
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of vanilla, butterscotch, wood spice, herbal notes, and dark fruit. The palate is dense and rich, full of dark fruit flavors with oak accents. The oak is at the fore at present but may integrate with time. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, and 4% Syrah. Champoux, Spring Creek, Estate, Sagemoor, and DuBrul vineyards. 15.3% alcohol. 2,573 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Winery Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $78
Rating: * (Excellent) Medium ruby. Aromas of dark toast, black cherry, cedar, and light herbal notes. Tart and puckering on the palate with rich fruit flavors and chalky tannins. Persists on the finish. Alcohol shows through at times. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. Champoux, Sagemoor, and Woodward Canyon Estate vineyards. 16.5% alcohol. 505 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2009 $44
Rating: * (Excellent) Toasty, smoky oak spices meld with spice and dark, penetrating fruit aromas. The palate has a silky, understated richness, gliding along with well-integrated tannins leading to a lingering finish. 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 7% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot, and 4% Mourvedre. 14.5% alcohol. 588 cases produced.


Abeja

Who makes better Cabernet than John Abbott at Abeja?

I have to confess that many times when I feel like having a Cabernet Sauvignon, the wines from Abeja are the first that come to mind and I find myself asking this question. Abbott has a knack for the grape and year after year makes some of Washington’s finest. It’s also worth noting that the price of Abeja’s Cabernet has remained steady for a number of years, while his peers’ prices have increased. “I want to deliver a lot of value for what we are,” Abbott says, and indeed the winery does.

Standouts from the current lineup also include a 100% Merlot from Heather Hill and Bacchus vineyards as well as a 100% Cabernet from Heather Hill. This is the first vineyard designated wine from the winery’s estate vineyard, and it’s clear tasting this bottle why it was time.

Heather Hill is located in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley AVA, east of Seven Hills Vineyard, in what I fondly refer to as ‘the occupied area’ of the valley. The vineyard was planted in 2001 and Abbott credits much of the site’s accelerated development to the sustainable farming practices used (the vineyard is certified LIVE and Salmon Safe). With the vineyard showing this well at less than ten years of age, the future is bright.

Abeja Chardonnay Washington State 2010 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) Beautifully appealing light barrel accents along with tart apple and citrus. A lively, light to medium bodied wine with a textured, creamy feel. 14.0% alcohol. 100% Chardonnay. Conner Lee, Estate. Reviewed November 18, 2011

Abeja Viognier Walla Walla Valley 2010 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Leaps up from the glass with speckled oak spices, white peaches, and marzipan. The palate is taut and textured with a bright zing of acidity. Reviewed November 18, 2011

Abeja House Red Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $21
Rating: * (Excellent) Lightly aromatic with peppery spice, black cherry, light herbal notes, and chocolate. The palate is full of fruit flavors that draw out on the finish. Consistently one of the highest quality to price ratio wines in the state. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc.

Abeja Merlot Columbia Valley 2009 $38
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Locked up tightly at present with very pretty, refined high toned red fruit, milk chocolate, and licorice. The palate is soft and fruit filled with tremendous concentration and elegance. 100% Merlot. Heather Hill and Bacchus vineyards. Aged 13 months in French and American oak (60% new). 14.6% alcohol.

Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Heather Hill Walla Walla Valley 2008 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Very pretty, high toned herbal notes along with oak spice and dark cherries on a wine to linger over. The palate is concentrated and rich while remaining silky and light on its feet with beautifully integrated tannins and an incredibly persistent finish. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 23 months in French oak (80% new). 14.8% alcohol.

Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $42
Rating: * (Excellent) A very pretty aroma profile with high toned herbal notes, spice, dark fruit, and bittersweet chocolate. The palate is rich yet refined, far from overpowering with a mixture of concentrated fruit flavors and elegance. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc. Heather Hill, Bacchus, Dionysus, Weinbau; Hedges Estate vineyards. Aged 25 months in French oak (60% new). 14.9% alcohol.


K Vintners

K Vintners continues to make some of Washington’s most compelling, uniquely styled wines. The 2009 vintage releases reviewed below are no exception.

Each year some of my favorite wines to try from K are ones that use Cayuse Vineyards fruit, such as the Roma Red Wine from En Chamberlain Vineyard. This Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blend provides an interesting contrast to Cayuse’s En Chamberlin Syrah.

Among his many offerings, winemaker Charles Smith has helped shine a light on the Wahluke Slope AVA with vineyard designated bottles such as ‘The Deal’ Syrah from Sundance Vineyard. These wines also continue to offer some of the best values in the K lineup.

Of note, Smith recently opened a tasting room in downtown Walla Walla – the worldwide headquarters – where the K Vintners and Charles Smith wines are poured. The K wines also continue to be poured at winery facility east of town.

Charles Smith Viognier Stoneridge Vineyard Columbia Valley 2009 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with apricot, creamsicle, and spice. The palate is silky and textured, broadening and expanding towards a long finish.

K Vintners Roma Red Wine En Chamberlain Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $65
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An earthy, funky, aromatically compelling wine full of olive brine, smoked meat, and savory notes. The palate is soft and silky with tremendous intensity of flavors. Lingers on the finish. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Syrah. 14.5% alcohol. 191 cases produced.

K Vintners The Creator Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2009 $55
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Light, high toned aromas of smoked meat, berries, and mineral notes. The palate is full of winding savory flavors while remaining light on its feet. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Syrah. Cailloux and Old Stones vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. 635 cases produced.

K Vintners The Deal Syrah Sundance Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2009 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Leaps up with green olive, smoked meat, and a perfumed floral notes. The palate is textured with incredible depth and inner mouth perfume. 100% Syrah. 15.5% alcohol. 360 cases produced.

K Vintners The Beautiful Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2009 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An uber aromatic wine with abundant mineral, green olive, and ash notes. On the palate, a gorgeous, textured, richly flavorful wine with a long, drawn out finish. 95% Syrah co-fermented with 5% Viognier. 15.5% alcohol. 580 cases produced.


Tero Estates

I’ve traveled all over the United States and elsewhere and there are few places that I find as beautiful and compelling as Tero Estates. The winery is located in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley AVA (again, within the occupied area). The Blue Mountains frame part of the landscape along with rolling hills of nearby vineyards. There is a nearby grain silo. Then there is Tero Estates beautiful production facility. Something about the area just conveys a sense of beauty and serenity. And surrounding it all is, Windrow Vineyard, Tero’s estate vineyard.

Windrow is a 32 acre site with 25 acres currently under vine. It is part of the first commercial vineyard planted in the Walla Walla Valley (read more about the vineyard and winery here). While this vineyard has a long history, Tero’s focus on using this vineyard for many of its wines puts a spotlight on this unique site. Seven Hills Vineyard is literally a stone’s throw, providing an interesting contrast.

The new releases from Tero continue to impress with two beautiful estate wines. I should also note that I tasted the winery’s 2008 Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Franc in a casual setting (meaning I wasn’t taking notes) and found it to be an extremely enjoyable bottle. Alas, this wine is sadly already sold out.

Tero Estates Windrow Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $55
Rating: * (Excellent) Medium ruby. This wine is locked up very tightly at present but opens to reveal red fruit, licorice, and occasionally somewhat strong herbal notes. The palate is broad and generous, full of cherry flavors that glide along to a tart, cherry filled finish. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Malbec. 14.3% alcohol. 106 cases produced.

Tero Estates Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Windrow Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $90
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically intriguing wine with orange peel, cigar box, herbal notes, and cumin. The palate has soft but broad fruit flavors, velvety tannins, and a lingering, spice filled finish. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 66% Old Block and 34% North Plateau. 14.8% alcohol. 71 cases produced.


Walla Walla Vintners

What can I say about Walla Walla Vintners that I haven’t said before (read previous posts about the winery here)? Gordy Venneri and Myles Anderson continue to make top quality wines at prices that just don’t budge. To wit, here’s a look at the winery’s price for its Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon in recent years:

2007 $35
2005 $35
2003 $35
2001 $35
2000 $35

I think you can guess what the price of the 2008 vintage, sampled below, will be.

That’s right; across nine vintages Walla Walla Vintners has not raised its price on this wine one single dollar. In 1997 the wine cost $32 – a full fourteen years ago. People must have been scandalized when it subsequently increased three dollars.

This can only mean one of two things. Either this is benign neglect where Venneri and Anderson keep forgetting to increment the price year after year, or it is a deliberate decision. For anyone who has met the two, there can be no question which it is. This is a winery that prides itself on continually over delivering on quality for the price and always succeeds.

Now someone out there is probably thinking, “These are terrible business people. How could they do that?” However, the rate at which the winery’s first ever wine club filled up earlier this year would dispute that (the only reason Venneri and Anderson didn’t start one sooner is they didn’t want to seem gimmicky).

Walla Walla Vintners has a large and devoted following. And it’s not just because they’ve held their prices. It’s because their wines are consistently fantastic. Who could as for anything more?

Walla Walla Vintners Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2009 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Medium ruby. An aromatically appealing wine with toasty spices, chocolate, red fruit, and light herbal notes. The palate is tart and lively with a creamy, silky feel and grainy tannins. Drinking a bit young at present. Give six months. 88% Merlot. 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Chan, Dwelley, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills vineyards. 14.2% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2009 $28
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. A classically Walla Walla Vintners styled wine with char, chocolate covered cherries, and spice. The palate is soft, silky, and light with a tart finish. 85% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dwelley, Cordon Grove, Sagemoor, Weinbau, Kilian, and Spring Creek vineyards. 14.2% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Walla Walla Vintners Sangiovese Columbia Valley 2009 $24
Rating: + (Good) An aromatically appealing wine with earth, cranberry, raspberry, dusty chocolate, and roasted coffee bean. The palate has winding, tart fruit flavors. Oak gets a little heavy at times but overall a winner. 80% Sangiovese and 12% Syrah and 8% Malbec. Desert View, Dwelley Kiona, and Goose Ridge vineyards. Sample provided by winery.

Walla Walla Vintners Bello Rosso Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Medium ruby. Brightly aromatic with cranberries, chocolate, and earth. The palate is light and tart with soft tannins. 50% Sangiovese and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. Desert View, Kiona, and Sagemoor vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2008 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) A somewhat brooding but appealing wine with dark cherries, herbal notes, chocolate, spice, and earth. The palate has silky fruit flavors with well integrated tannins and a lingering finish. 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, 2% Carmenère and 2% Petit Verdot. Pepper Bridge, Dwelley, Windrow, Seven Hills and Frazier Bluff vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Seventeen Sparkling Wines to Help Ring in the New Year

Seattleites, turn on Q13 News at 5:30pm today when I’ll be talking about sparkling wines.

Well folks, 2011 is fast coming to a close, so it’s time to turn our attention to sparkling wines to help ring in the New Year.

Let me start by saying that if you’re not drinking sparkling wines year round, make this a New Year’s resolution. These wines are not just for special occasions. Imagine if people thought it was only appropriate to drink Cabernet on Valentine’s Day.

Selecting sparkling wines can sometimes be challenging. What wine to buy? What style to buy? In terms of style, confusingly, wines labeled as Extra Dry are actually sweeter than Extra Brut and Brut wines. Demi-Sec is sweeter still. Bottom line, if you’re looking for something dry, wines labeled as Extra Brut or Brut are a good way to go (read more about sweetness levels of sparkling wine here).

Below is a list of seventeen sparkling wines across a variety of price points. Because a number of these wines are imported, I have also listed Seattle-area locations where I know these wines have been available in the past. Make sure to call in advance to confirm if you are interested in a specific wine. While I have listed below the larger stores in the Seattle area, any good wine retailer here or in other areas should have a large selection of quality sparkling wines. A few of my favorite local shops are McCarthy & Schiering (Note: There is a sparkling wine tasting at both locations Saturday 1-6), Pike & Western, Bin 41, Vino Verité, and 6th Avenue Wine Sellers which all have good selections.

The belle of the ball below is the 2004 Adam-Jaeger Blanc de Blancs Millesime Champagne. This is a grower Champagne, meaning the wine is made by a family that grows its own grapes. In contrast, the large Champagne houses make their wines from dozens or even hundreds of different vineyards. The Adam-Jaeger is 100% Chardonnay and is also vintage dated. It’s a knock out for this price (this is the wine that I’ll be drinking New Year’s eve).

Note that this wine is only available locally at Fat Cork, a Seattle-based importer/retailer on lower Queen Anne that deals exclusively with grower Champagne. Friend and owner Bryan Maletis is doing a great job at this new company, offering a variety of wines across a range of price points.

I was also particularly excited about the Drappier Brut Champagne Carte d'Or. Notably, this wine was originally listed at $49 but currently has a retail price around town of $35 or less. $35 for high quality Champagne? Yes please. I was also struck by the Scharffenberger Brut Excellence from California, which is a superb deal for $19.

Leave comments below on what wines you’re planning to open to celebrate the New Year or if you know of other locations where these particular wines are available. Whatever you do, I wish everyone a happy and safe start to 2012.

Adam-Jaeger Blanc de Blancs Millesime Champagne 2004 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An arresting, complex wine with pear, apple, and abundant autolytic notes. The palate is lively, stretching out from end to end with a creamy feel and bright acidity. A long, lingering finish. Among the more compelling wines I’ve had in 2011. 100% Chardonnay.
Where: Fat Cork, a grower Champagne dedicated retailer on lower Queen Anne, Seattle

Drappier Brut Champagne Carte d'Or NV $49
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An aromatic wine full of brioche and raspberries. The palate is dry with a creamy feel, full of evolving flavors of raspberries and lemon. An extended finish. Retail is listed at $49 but currently being sold around town for a non-sale price of $35, which is a steal.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, Pete’s Wine Shop, Esquin

P Louis Martin Brut Champagne Bouzy NV $35
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Aromas of fresh baked bread, strawberry, and green apple. The palate is rich and flavorful – this is a red wine drinkers Champagne if ever there were one. Capped off by a long finish.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, Pete’s Wine Shop

Colin Cuvee Alliance Champagne NV $35
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with spice, baked bread, yeast, and raspberries. The palate is dry with a creamy mouthfeel and a long, apple filled finish.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, McCarthy & Schiering

Domaine Ste. Michelle Luxe Columbia Valley 2005 $23
Rating: * (Excellent) A bright, crisp wine with pear, flint, lemon, and lime. The palate is dry and crisp with a lemon-filled finish. 100% Chardonnay. 11% alcohol. 2,184 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Duval Leroy Brut Champagne Cuvee Paris 2006 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) A classically styled Champagne with light autolytic notes, apple, and cream. The palate is light, crisp, and clean with a creamy, lingering finish. 5,000 cases produced.
Where: Wine World Warehouse

Gosset Brut Excellence Champagne NV $45
Rating: * (Excellent) A classically styled Champagne with appealing, delicate aromas of yeast, apple, and almond. The palate is silky and bone dry with fine bubbles.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, Pete’s Wine Shop, Esquin

Piper-Heidsieck Brut Cuvee Champagne NV $45
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant leesy and toasty aromas along with almond, baked bread, and citrus on an aromatically appealing wine. The palate is light, dry, crisp, and refreshing. 50,000 cases produced.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, numerous other locations

Scharffenberger Brut Excellence Mendocino California NV $19
Rating: * (Excellent) Appealing aromatics of yeast, lemon, apples, and raspberries. On the palate the wine has a weighted, textured feel with fine grained bubbles. Finishes tart and dry. A superb wine for this price point. 66% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir. 12% alcohol. 1.0% Residual Sugar. 25,000 cases produced.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, Pete’s Wine Shop, numerous other locations

Nicolas Feuillatte ‘Blue Label’ Brut Reserve Particuliere Champagne NV $36
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatic sparkling wine full of lees notes and green apple. The palate is light, crisp, and spritely with a clean, dry finish. An enjoyable Champagne at a very reasonable price point, especially when found on sale.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, Pete’s Wine Shop, Esquin

Argyle Brut Wine Willamette Valley 2007 $27
Rating: + (Good) A tart, very dry wine full of green apple and lime aromas and flavors. Finishes a bit short. 63% Chardonnay, 37% Pinot Noir. Knudsen and Lonestar vineyards. 12.5% alcohol. 1.5% Residual Sugar. 11,620 cases produced.
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $12
Rating: + (Good) Pleasing aromas of green apple, lime, and autolytic notes. The palate is just off dry with crisp citrus flavors. 12.1% alcohol. 1.19% Residual Sugar. 191,540 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Recommended Reviewed November 21, 2011
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Rose Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $12
Rating: + (Good) Pale salmon colored. A light floral note along with lemon, raspberry, and green apple. The palate is crisp, dry, and refreshing with tart with lemon and apple flavors. 100% Pinot Noir. 12% alcohol. 1.15% Residual Sugar. 20,081 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Recommended Reviewed December 6, 2011
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $12
Rating: + (Good) Very lightly aromatic with pear, apple skin, and lime notes. The palate is fresh and clean, quite dry and full of apple flavors. 11.5% alcohol. 1.05% Residual Sugar. 32,640 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Reviewed December 6, 2011
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Extra Dry Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $12
Rating: + (Good) An enjoyable wine full of pear and tropical fruit notes. The sweetest of the Domaine Ste. Michelle offerings, this wine steps just one toe over the line in terms of sweetness based on its acidity. 12.0% alcohol. 2.3% Residual Sugar. 51,919 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Reviewed December 6, 2011
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose Cremant d’Alsace France NV $23
Rating: + (Good) An enjoyable, everyday sparkling wine that can frequently be found on sale in grocery stores, this wine brings sweet raspberries and strawberry aromas and flavors. The palate is dry, crisp, and light bodied. Note that I’m listing this wine as recommended as I always see it for a sub $20 price. At $23, I would pass. 100% Pinot Noir. 8,000 cases imported. Recommended
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Piper Sonoma Blanc de Blancs Select Cuvée Sonoma County NV $20
Rating: + (Good) A fairly aromatic sparkler that is absolutely loaded with green apple fruit and skin aromas and flavors. Finishes tart and slightly sweet. 95% Chardonnay, 5% others. Aged on lees at least 16 months. 30,500 cases produced.
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Best of Washington Wine Report 2011

Today as we begin to wind down the year, a look back at some of my personal favorite posts from each month this year.

January’s was a post on Washington wines in the spotlight at the Whitehouse.

February’s was a look at Woodinville’s JM Cellars.

March’s were about EFESTĒ and L’Ecole 41’s new label.

Two posts from April were looking at the Starbucks wine program and terms like super premium.

May’s were looks at Januik/Novelty Hill and Pamplin Family Winery.

June’s were the new vintage of Drew Bledsoe’s Doubleback and Senator Demint bashing the Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center.

July’s was why most winery websites stink.

August's was a look at Gorman Winery.

September’s was a piece about the new owners of Betz Family Winery.

October they were why I voted no on Initiative 1183, how to sound smart talking about wine, and a look at keg wine.

November it was an article on the 2011 harvest winding down.

December it was a rant about Robert Parker posts, a look at The Wine Advocate’s new critic covering Washington, and a post about Washington’s newest AVA.

See all of the posts from this year and previous years organized by month along the right hand side of the blog.

Fresh Sheet December 27th 2011

Today’s Fresh Sheet, new and recent Washington wine releases, includes wines from Adams Bench, Kerloo Cellars, Obelisco Estate, Cave B Estate Winery, and Soos Creek Wine Cellars.

Adams Bench

High up on bucolic Hollywood Hill above the now teeming Schoolhouse District sits Adams Bench. Tim and Erica Blue founded the winery 2006, naming it after a bench where children were sent for punishment when Tim Blue was a child in Indiana.

Tim Blue says of starting the winery, “We hadn’t bottled anything. We hadn’t proved we could bottle anything.” Five years later, Tim and Erica Blue have proven a considerable amount, creating a series of consistently high quality wines that rival some of the state’s best, all with a clear house style.

The backbone of the winery is three red wines, two Cabernets and a Bordeaux-style blend. For each, the Blues picked a set of distinctive vineyard sites that include Red Willow, Two Blondes, and Stillwater Creek.

“Before we made any wine of any type we drove almost every square mile of Washington,” Tim Blue says. One of the places they visited was Champoux Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, where owner Paul Champoux directed them towards May’s Discovery Vineyard. This vineyard has since become one of the principal components of the ‘the V’ Cabernet Sauvignon.

“It’s a windy site,” Blue says of May’s Discovery, “and invariably the darkest fruit that we have.” Tasting through a four year vertical of this wine, a distinctive spice component from May’s Vineyard shows through in each wine (Note: As the 2009 was a prerelease wine I have not included my notes here). Each of the library wines was showing beautifully with each vintage building upon the one that came before and each year bringing improvements in a sure sign of the couple’s perfectionist streak.

Of note, the Blues recently completed a new underground storage facility as well as a small, dedicated tasting facility. While I was there a coyote prowled the grounds outside the winery as the sun began to set making for a perfect place to visit and enjoy some of the best that Washington has to offer.

Note: Adams Bench is open by appointment.

Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon Red Willow Yakima Valley 2008 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark and alluring with dark, dried cherries, incense, and high toned herbal notes. Completely coats the palate from end to end with bold but beautifully balanced dark fruit flavors. Taught, grainy tannins squeeze the tongue before gently letting go. Carries into a long finish. A prototype of Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, once again showing Tim Blue among the state’s best. Give two-plus years or decant extensively. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. 14.9% alcohol. 100 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon ‘the V’ Columbia Valley 2008 $49
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Locked up tightly initially with dusty chocolate, dark cherries, incense, black currant, crushed dried flowers, spice, and herbal notes. The palate is bold and lush with chocolate, dark fruit flavors, and grainy tannins. Hangs on the finish. Give two-plus years or decant extensively. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon (May’s Discovery, Stillwater Creek), 15% Merlot (Artz), and 5% Cabernet Franc (Two Blondes). 14.5% alcohol. 249 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon ‘the V’ Columbia Valley 2007 $NA
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) A much more aromatically expressive wine than the 2006 vintage with baker’s chocolate, exotic spices, and high toned dark fruit. The palate is full of rich, ripe, voluptuous flavors that linger on the finish. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc.

Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon ‘the V’ Columbia Valley 2006 $NA
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark and appealing with distinctive aromas of exotic spices and an under layer of dark fruit. The palate is silky and lush with abundant chocolate and dark fruit flavors. A gorgeous wine that is drinking beautifully right now. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc.

Adams Bench The Reckoning Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $39
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark ruby. An aromatically appealing wine with red and black fruit, herbal notes, spice, and bittersweet chocolate. The palate’s graceful red and black fruit flavors belie firm, chewy tannins. 51% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc. 14.9% alcohol. 546 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars

Kerloo Cellars had its inaugural releases two years ago with a pair of stunning Syrahs. Since that time winemaker Ryan Crane has established himself as one of the most exciting new winemakers in the state.

When I first talked to Crane about his wines back in 2009, he said his goal at Kerloo Cellars was, “to craft varietally correct wines that showcase a ‘sense of place’ with respect to the vineyards in which they are grown. I want to create wines that are palate challenging across the board and hold true to the varietal.” Since then Crane has done all that and more.

In terms of showcasing a sense of place, each of the Kerloo Cellars wines states on the back label the vineyard as well as the specific block of the vineyard. In the case of one of the wines it even states, “Rows 1-6.”

Crane, who was assistant winemaker at Va Piano Vineyards before he left to focus on Kerloo full-time earlier this year, is ever experimenting, whether it’s with different vineyards, varietals, or coopers. For the 2011 vintage he purchased a concrete fermenter, which he has affectionately named ‘Lucy.’

“I just keep trying to make more unique, fun wines,” Crane says. And is he ever. As with the previous vintages, the 2009 vintage releases include two Syrahs and a Columbia Valley Tempranillo. There are also a few additions: a Walla Walla Valley Garnacha, a Columbia Valley Grenache, and a vineyard designated Malbec (Note: The latter two are wine club offerings).

Of the new additions, Kerloo’s Walla Walla Valley Garnacha is one of the more thrilling wines that I have had this year, a wine that shows tremendous delicacy and refinement from an area where Grenache is seldom grown. The Malbec, meanwhile, is one of the more compelling bottles of this varietal that I have had from Washington with incredibly pure fruit expression.

In terms of style, several things stand out about the current Kerloo wines. All are in the low 14% or below in alcohol and all are low in oak (18-25% new on the current releases). “I want the wine and the vineyard to show, not the oak. That’s just me,” Crane says.

What comes next for Kerloo Cellars? I, for one, am looking forward to finding out.

Kerloo Cellars produced 90 barrels (approximately 2,250 cases) in 2011. All wines unfined and unfiltered. Note: Kerloo Cellars tasting room in Walla Walla is closed until March except by appointment.

Kerloo Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2009 $34
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Medium ruby with a purple rim. An aromatic wine with plum, black pepper, and chocolate along with savory, mineral, and floral notes. The palate is perfumed, silky and seductive, full of umami and chocolate flavors with grainy tannins, opening up and broadening out to an exclamation point. Persists on the finish for nearly a full minute. A beautifully restrained, impressive expression of valley Syrah that holds up over days. 72% Va Piano Vineyard Block 6, 26% Les Collines Vineyard Block 30, 2% Viognier Les Collines Block 48. Aged in French oak (18% new) with 35% stems. 14.4% alcohol. 127 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars Syrah Les Collines Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $34
Rating: * (Excellent) More tightly locked up than its 2009 Walla Walla Valley counterpart at first, this wine opens over time to reveal peppery spice, chocolate, smoked meat, violets, and mineral notes. The palate is on the lighter side of medium bodied and front loaded with silky tannins and lithe fruit and meat flavors capped off by a tart, lightly herbal finish. Needed several days open to fully reveal its charms, but once it did…100% Les Collines Block 30 and 50. Aged in French oak (18% new) with 20% stems. 14.3% alcohol. 127 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars Grenache Columbia Valley 2009 $40
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Medium ruby and slightly cloudy. Very pretty, delicate aromatics of raspberries, red vines, and herbal notes. The fruit is very restrained, silky, and textured with a tart finish. 75% Alder Ridge Block 30, 25% Cockburn Ranch Block 20. Aged in French oak (25% new). 14.0% alcohol. 92 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars Garnacha Cockburn Ranch Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale ruby and slightly cloudy. Very light, delicate aromas of pine resin, vanilla, spice, and red fruit. The palate is soft, light bodied, silky and seductive with red fruit accented by vanilla flavors. Tremendous hang time on the finish. An absolutely beautiful, delicate, unique wine and a rarely seen Walla Walla Valley Grenache. 100% Grenache. Cockburn Ranch, Block 20. Aged 17 months in neutral French oak. 12.1% alcohol. 22 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars Malbec Chelle Den Mille Vineyard Yakima Valley 2009 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Almost completely opaque with a purple rim. Lightly aromatic with plum, white pepper, and spice. The palate is soft and reserved, medium bodied with pure fruit flavors with minimal oak influence. Dips slightly in the middle before pulling back together and lingering on a tart finish. An incredibly understated wine that is one of the finest, purest examples of Washington Malbec I have had. 100% Malbec. Chelle Den Mille Vineyard Rows 1-6. Aged in French oak (25% new). 13.9% alcohol. 92 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars Tempranillo Columbia Valley 2009 $34
Rating: + (Good) Lightly aromatic with spice and red fruit. The palate is tart with soft, pure flavors, dipping a bit in the middle before coming back together for a lingering finish. 53% Stone Tree Vineyard Block 17, 47% Les Collines Block 6. Aged in French and American oak (18% new). 13.9% alcohol. 184 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Obelisco Estate

Obelisco Estate, which has a tasting room in Woodinville’s Warehouse District and a vineyard on Red Mountain, had its first release two years ago with an estate Cabernet Sauvignon.

In terms of style, owner Doug Long says, “I’m looking for elegance.” Indeed while many wineries using Red Mountain fruit are going after a ripe style packed with the area’s abundant tannins, Long is looking to dial things down. Noticeably, none of the wines sampled below were above 14.2% alcohol – many were considerably below - and the tannins on all of the wines were kept in check.

All of the Obelisco wines have a distinctive, reserved style with abundant spice and fruit notes leading to a drawn out finish. The wines are also extremely well priced; it’s hard to think of too many Red Mountain wines out there coming in at $30.

For production, Long works with Hedges and Barrage Cellars. “My focus is really vineyards and producing really good fruit,” Long says, noting that the vineyard is planted at a high 2,000 vines per acre. Long is responsible for the final blends.

The Electrum is Obelisco’s flagship wine, with a the blend reflecting the vineyard plantings. “This is the wine I wanted to produce when I planted the vineyard,” Long says.

Obelisco produces 2,400 hundred cases annually.

Obelisco Estate Les Gosses Vineyard Syrah Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Medium ruby. Aromas of spice, red currant, floral notes, red fruit, and barnyard aromas. The palate is tart with soft fruit flavors and firm tannins. Hangs on the finish. A very enjoyable wine. 14.2% alcohol. 395 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Obelisco Estate Les Gosses Vineyard Syrah Red Mountain 2009 $30
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Pale ruby. An aromatically expressive wine with spice, chocolate, and red currant. The palate is silky and seductive with drawn on red fruit flavors and silky tannins. Lingers on the finish. 100% Syrah. 14.2% alcohol. 250 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Obelisco Estate Estate Grown Malbec Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. Aromas of exotic spice, incense, and spicy plum on an alluring wine. The palate is tart, medium bodied, and restrained with smooth fruit flavors and soft tannins. Dips a bit in the middle but overall a very enjoyable, extremely restrained wine that is a distinct style for Washington. Lingers on the finish. 80% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 12.9% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Obelisco Estate Estate Grown Merlot Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Leaps up from the glass with smoky oak notes, spice, incense, and red fruit. The palate is loaded with fruit flavors that draw out and lead to a long, spice filled finish. A beautiful wine that is a steal at this price point. 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah, and 5% Malbec. 13.7% alcohol. 395 cases produced.

Obelisco Estate Estate Grown Reserve Merlot Red Mountain 2009 $40
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Medium ruby. An aromatically appealing wine with spice, incense, red and black fruit. The palate is simultaneously rich and elegant with soft fruit flavors and silky tannins. A long, lingering, fruit filled finish. An outstanding, thoroughly delicious representation of Washington Merlot. 75% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec, and 5% Syrah. 258 cases produced. 13.8% alcohol.

Obelisco Estate Red Wine Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Roasted coffee bean, dark cherries, toasty oak spices, and light herbal notes. Full of soft, sinewy fruit flavors and sappy oak flavors. 70.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 4.5% Malbec. 13.7% alcohol. 1,264 cases produced. Reviewed June 23, 2011

Obelisco Estate Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2009 $40
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Medium ruby. Lightly aromatic with coffee grounds, cherries, cranberries, earth, and spice. The palate is rounded and soft with tart, cranberry fruit flavors and grainy tannins. Very pure fruit flavors on this wine and all of the current releases. A lingering finish. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17.6% alcohol, 3.6% Malbec, 0.8% Syrah. 14.1% alcohol. 755 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Obelisco Estate Estate Grown Electrum Red Mountain 2009 $65
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Medium ruby. Aromatically closed up at present, the wine opens to reveal coffee tones, dark fruit, and incense. The palate brings soft, silky, but rich fruit flavors with polished tannins and a lingering finish. Give 1-2 years. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.5% Merlot, and 2.5% Malbec. 14.1% alcohol. 300 cases produced.

Cave B Estate Winery

Cave B Estate Winery is a destination winery located in George, Washington next to the Gorge Amphitheatre. A little over two hours from Seattle, the area boasts sweeping views of the Columbia River as well as an on-site inn, spa, and restaurant.

Almost all of Cave B’s diverse offerings come from its estate vineyards either surrounding the winery or within a stone’s throw. These vineyards all lie within the to-be-approved Ancient Lakes viticultural area.

The Ancient Lakes area is one of the cooler growing regions in the state. Nearby Evergreen Vineyard has become well known for white varietals such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Gewurztraminer. Growing red grapes in the area can be more challenging, with winemaker Freddy Arredondo saying it requires vigilance in the vineyard.

While the results so far are mixed, Cave B continues to give an interesting look into this evolving growing region.

Cave B Estate Winery Unoaked Chardonnay Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2010 $19
Rating: . (Decent) Lightly aromatic with lemon and white peach. The palate is tart and textured with a full feel and lemony acidity that occasionally veers toward sour. 12.7% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Estate Winery Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: + (Good) Moderately aromatic with vanilla, spice, melon, and tropical fruit. The palate is full of oak spices with a creamy feel. Thins out toward the finish. 100% Chardonnay. 14.6% alcohol. 171 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: + (Good) A very herbal wine with lemon zest and lime notes. The palate is tart with a lemony zing of acidity. 13.0% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Estate Winery Semillon Columbia Valley 2009 $20
Rating: . (Decent) Very lightly aromatic with fresh spun cotton and spice. The palate is creamy with a full feel. 90% Semillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc. 14.8% alcohol. 225 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Estate Winery Sangiovese Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2009 $28
Rating: . (Decent) Pale ruby. A lightly aromatic wine with orange peel, red currant, fresh cranberries, and wood spice. The palate is light, tart, and tangy. 14.3% alcohol. 134 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Estate Winery XXIII Merlot Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. A moderately aromatic wine full of fresh red fruit accented by wood spice. The palate is on the lighter side of medium bodied, tart and refreshing with chalky tannins. 14.6% alcohol. 144 cases produced.

Cave B Estate Winery Cuvee du Soleil Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $45
Rating: + (Good) A lightly aromatic medley of herbal notes, cherries, and spice. The palate is on the lighter side of medium bodied with tart cherry flavors and grainy tannins. Thins out toward the finish. 36% Cabernet Sauvignon 36% Merlot 18% Cabernet Franc and 10% Malbec. 14.5% alcohol. 239 cases produced.

Cave B Estate Winery Malbec Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2009 $35
Rating: . (Decent) Medium ruby with a slight purple tingle. A very lightly aromatic wine with green notes, chocolate, and whiffs of pepper. Comes off as quite sour. 14.8% alcohol.

Cave B Estate Winery Tempranillo Columbia Valley 2009 $28
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Medium ruby. Lightly aromatic with red fruit, vanilla, and sweet spices. The palate is dry and medium bodied with grippy tannins. Thins out towards the finish. 14.6% alcohol.

Cave B Estate Winery Syrah Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: . (Decent) A moderately aromatic wine with red fruit, potpourri, and orange peel. Comes off as simultaneously tart and sweet on the palate, finishing very tart. 14.8% alcohol.

Onesies

Soos Creek Wine Cellars consistently under prices and over delivers across its lineup. A Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Bordeaux-style blend for $30? I can almost see the stickers on the wines, “Compare at $60.” Read a Focus Report on the winery here.

Soos Creek Wine Cellars Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with dark fruit, chocolate, floral notes, and spice. The palate is tightly wound with a core of black fruit flavors hanging on a scaffolding of grippy tannins. Lingers on the finish. 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot.