Fresh Sheet November 30th 2011

November's Virtual Tasting takes place tonight 7-8pm Pacific. Read about how to participate here.






Today’s Fresh Sheet – new and recent Washington wine releases – includes wines from Hard Row to Hoe, Mannina, :Nota Bene, Ash Hollow, Long Shadows, and Owen Roe.

Hard Row to Hoe

The story of Manson’s Hard Row to Hoe is one of rebranding and rebirth. The winery was founded by Judy and Don Phelps as Balsamroot Vineyards. The couple subsequently rebranded the winery, taking advantage of one of the area’s unique stories.

Back in the 1930s Howe Sound Mining Company was a booming business. An enterprising Manson resident started a rowboat taxi service to bring miners across Lake Chelan to the local brothel at Point Lovely. Hard Row to Hoe’s main label shows the miners on their voyage. The Burning Desire label is named in tribute to the miners’ wives - who burned the brothel down.

Hard Row’s tasting room is full of period pictures and other items - look very closely at the wall paper if you visit – making it one of the more unique spots in the picturesque Lake Chelan area.

At the winery, Don Phelps works their estate vineyard (the winery also sources grapes from other areas) while Judy makes the wines. The estate wines below give an early look at the young Lake Chelan AVA, which saw its first production vineyard in 1998.

Hard Row to Hoe Shameless Hussy Viognier Columbia Valley 2010 $18
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatic wine full of peaches, pear, bananas, pineapple, and floral notes. A full, viscous mouthfeel loaded with fruit flavors. Alcohol pokes through a bit on this otherwise very enjoyable wine. 14.2% alcohol.

Hard Row to Hoe Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley 2010 $22
Rating: + (Good) A very intriguing, varietally correct wine with snapped green pepper, asparagus, mango, and lemon zest. Palate is tart and appealing with a broad mouthfeel and abundant grapefruit and herbal flavors. Thins out toward the finish. 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Muscadelle de Bordelaise. Lonesome Springs Ranch. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.8% alcohol. 250 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Hard Row to Hoe Marsanne Yakima Valley 2010 $18
Rating: . (Decent) Toasty, smoky notes dominate aromatically followed by melon. Has a full, textured, oily feel. The oak rules the day, lingering long after each sip. 100% Marsanne. Boushey Vineyard. Fermented in stainless steel and neutral oak. 14.5% alcohol. 270 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Hard Row to How Burning Desire Estate Cabernet Franc Lake Chelan 2008 $45
Rating: + (Good) An aromatic wine with abundant cherry cola, chocolate, roasted pepper, and vanilla notes. The palate is rich and full of cranberry and chocolate flavors with the oak at the fore. An intriguing estate wine from this up and coming region. 100% Cabernet Franc. Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards. Aged 22 months in American oak (50% new). 14.5% alcohol. 225 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Hard Row to Hoe Syrah Lake Chelan 2008 $30
Rating: + (Good) Toasty aromas of sweet spices, coconut, freshly sawed wood, and red berries on a moderately aromatic wine. The palate is light bodied with oak spices overlaying light red berry flavors. 100% Syrah. Bear Mountain Ranch Vineyard. Aged 18 months in French and American oak (50% new). 13.8% alcohol. 125 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Hard Row to Hoe Burning Desire Petit Verdot Yakima Valley 2009 $35
Rating: . (Decent) Lightly aromatic with high-toned, perfumed floral and soil notes. Palate brings abundant cherry flavors with a grapefruit-like acidity. 80% Petit Verdot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot. Lonesome Spring Ranch Vineyard. Aged in French and American oak (40% new). 14.2% alcohol. 285 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars

Walla Walla Valley’s Mannina Cellars occupies a unique niche. The wines all come from the Walla Walla Valley; most are vineyard designates; all are aged with minimal new oak; all are low in alcohol compared to most of their peers; and all are reasonably priced, with only one wine above $25.

While many of the 2008 releases from Mannina (reviewed here) showed abundant herbal and even green notes, the new releases from the warmer, 2009 vintage are fresh and fruit filled. The new wines include a rare Seven Hills Vineyard designated Sangiovese which comes in at $22. The other new wine is a Pepper Bridge Merlot, which retails for $24. Both are enjoyable, intriguing, and – best of all - well priced.

Mannina Cellars Sangiovese Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $22
Rating: + (Good) Pale ruby, this wine shows all the hallmarks of Sangiovese with cranberry, raspberry, rose hips, and dusty spices. The palate is palate is tart and puckering - occasionally verging on sour - with a big blast of cranberry flavors. Overall, an enjoyable, very varietal wine from a classic Washington vineyard. 84% Sangiovese, 16% Merlot. Aged 14 months in neutral French oak. 13.9% alcohol. 256 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars Merlot Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $24
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. Lightly aromatic with red fruit, spice, and a touch of herbal notes. The palate is tart with a compact ball of red fruit flavors and firm tannins. 96% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13.8% alcohol. 168 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars

South Seattle’s :Nota Bene Cellars has always been a winery that likes to experiment with different blends and vineyard sources. While the results can be somewhat confusing to consumers – this is a winery where one truly needs a scorecard – the wines are all interesting studies in blending and vineyard sites which is, of course, the point.

To give a sense of the diversity on the display at the winery, in 2009 :Nota Bene Cellars made 11 different wines totaling 1,250 cases. These include an astonishing five different Bordeaux-style blends, including two Merlot-dominant wines given proprietary names (Abbinare, Miscela), two Cabernet-dominant vineyard designates (Ciel du Cheval Red Wine, Conner Lee Red Wine), and one Cabernet Franc-dominant vineyard designate (Dineen Vineyard Red Wine).

In addition to Bordeaux-style blends, winemaker Tim Narby (obviously) also likes to create vineyard-designates. The 2008 releases include wines from Conner Lee Vineyard (Merlot, Red Wine), Ciel du Cheval (Red Wine, Syrah), Verhey (Malbec), Dineen (Red Wine), and Stillwater Creek (Mourvedre).

Most of the wines are very limited production. The workhorses are the Columbia Valley, non-vineyard designates such as the Abbinare (237 cases), Miscela (150 cases), Syrah (163 cases).

For those keeping track at home, the table below gives the 2008 scorecard.

Wine Name	Blend	Cases	$
2008 Abbinare Red Wine Columbia Valley	53% Merlot, 21% Cabernet, 21% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec	237	$25
2008 Miscela Red Wine Columbia Valley	47% Merlot, 38% Cabernet, 10% Cab Franc, 5% Malbec	150	$25
2008 Red Wine Conner Lee Vineyard CV	67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot	75	$30
2008 Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard RM	43% Cabernet, 29% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc	175	$35
2008 Red Wine Dineen Vineyard YV	60% Cabernet Franc, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon	100	$35
2008 Merlot Conner Lee Vineyard CV	100% Merlot	75	$30
2008 Malbec Verhey Vineyard YV	100% Malbec	75	$30
2008 Mourvedre Stillwater Creek CV	100% Mourvedre	25	$30
2008 Syrah Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain	95% Syrah, 5% Grenache	50	$35
2008 Syrah Columbia Valley	79% Syrah, 13% Mourvedre, 8% Grenache	163	$25
2008 Una Notte Red Wine CV	52% Grenache, 38% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre	131	$30

Nota Bene has always produced good wines at fair prices – it’s hard to find many Ciel du Cheval wines at $35. The 2008 wines include a new wine, a Verhey Vineyard Malbec, which provides another fine example from the state.

All of the 2008 releases are around or above 15% alcohol. Many of the wines have the fruit to pull it off, but on some, it interrupted the show.

:Nota Bene Cellars Merlot Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: + (Good) A lightly aromatic wine that is like a bowl of fresh raspberries sprinkled with chocolate and spices. As the wine opens up, toasty oak notes come to the fore. On the palate the wine is rich and full bodied with abundant red fruit flavors and moderate tannins. The alcohol provides a bit of sharpness and an afterburn. 100% Merlot. Aged 22 months in French oak. 16.2% alcohol. 75 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Abbinare Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. A moderately aromatic wine with red fruit, herbal notes, wood spice, and high-toned licorice. The palate is medium bodied with firm tannins and silky red fruit flavors. Finishes a bit sharp. 53% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. Arianses, StoneTree, Chandler Reach, Verhey, and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. Aged 22 months in French oak (25% new). 14.9% alcohol. 237 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Miscela Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Medium ruby. Appealing aromas of dusty cherries, milk chocolate, herbal notes, and exotic spices. The palate is medium bodied with rich fruit flavors and chalky, occasionally dry, tannins that give a firm squeeze before gently letting go. 47% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. Ciel du Cheval, Champoux, Dineen, and Verhey vineyards. Aged 22 months in French and Hungarian oak (33% new). 15.3% alcohol. 150 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Red Wine Dineen Vineyard Yakima Valley 2008 $35
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. An appealing wine with pickling spices, dusty chocolate, herbal notes, and cherries. The palate is medium bodied with tart cherry flavors, finishing slightly sweet. Occasionally shows some heat. 60% Cabernet Franc, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 22 months in American and French oak. 15.1% alcohol. 100 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Medium ruby. Aromatically shows abundant toasty notes along with vanilla extract and herbal notes. The palate is medium bodied with dark cherry flavors and silky tannins. 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and 28% Cabernet Franc. Aged 22 months in French and American oak. 15.3% alcohol. 175 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Red Wine Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: + (Good) Deep ruby. Lightly aromatic with herbal notes and spice. The palate is tart with gritty tannins. Finishes a bit sour. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot. Aged 22 months in French oak (33% new). 15.1% alcohol. 75 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Malbec Verhey Vineyards Yakima Valley 2008 $30
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Medium purple. This wine has all the hallmarks of Washington Malbec with peppery spices, plum, and light green notes. The palate is tart and on the lighter side of medium bodied tart with chocolate flavors, grainy tannins, and a silky smooth finish. Occasionally shows a bit of heat. 100% Malbec. Aged 22 months in French and Bulgarian oak. 15.2% alcohol. 75 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Note Bene Cellars Una Notte Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Pale ruby. An aromatic, appealing wine with red fruit, blueberries, white pepper, spice, and game. The palate is lush and fruit filled with a drawn out finish. A slight bitter note on the finish is all that holds this wine back. 52% Grenache, 28% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre. StoneTree, Stillwater Creek, and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. Aged 22 months in stainless steel (Grenache) and French and American oak (Syrah). 15.2% alcohol. 131 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Mourvedre Stillwater Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Pale ruby. Closed up initially, this wine opens to reveal white pepper, baker’s chocolate, and light game notes. The palate is light bodied and tart, finishing a bit sour. 100% Mourvedre. Aged 22 months in French oak. 14.7% alcohol. 25 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: + (Good) Labeled as a Syrah, this wine is truly a GSM with 13% Mourvedre and 8% Grenache added to the mix. It’s a moderately aromatic wine with wood spice, white pepper, and dark fruit. The palate is full throttle with abundant dark fruit flavors. The alcohol bleeds through a bit in the second half. 79% Syrah, 13% Mourvedre, and 8% Grenache. StoneTree and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 22 months in French and American oak. 15.5% alcohol. 163 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

:Nota Bene Cellars Syrah Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2008 $35
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) A perfumed, expressive wine with Stargazer lilies, blueberries, and mineral notes. The palate is broad and fruit filled with chalky tannins and a lingering finish. 95% Syrah, 5% Grenache (StoneTree). Aged 22 months in French and American oak (50% new). 15.0% alcohol. 50 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Ash Hollow Estate Vineyards and Winery

Ash Hollow Estate Vineyards and Winery is located at the western border of the Walla Walla Valley. The winery was founded in 1998 and is named after a hollow of ash trees located on the original homestead property at the vineyard site.

The Ash Hollow wines reviewed below come at a $20 and under price point – rare territory for Walla Walla Valley wines. These wines both have a viscous feel and a sweet finish. While I personally found this distracting, these wines should have broad consumer appeal.

Of note, Ash Hollow recently made a YouTube splash with its video of a headless horseman in support of its 2008 Headless Red Red Wine. It’s an enjoyable watch.

Ash Hollow Legends Headless Red Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $18
Rating: . (Decent) Brightly aromatic with red and black fruit, mint, jalapeno pepper, chocolate and wood spice (pine). The palate is broad and full, almost viscous, with abundant cherry flavors and soft tannins. Finishes is a bit sweet and cloying. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 58% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Syrah, and 3% Malbec. Ash Hollow Vineyards. 14.1% alcohol. 1,000 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Ash Hollow Nine Mile Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2007 $20
Rating: . (Decent) A pungent wine with sweet raspberries, brambly fruit, cola, light herbal notes, and oak notes. The palate is thick and viscous, finishing extremely sweet. Tasted twice with consistent notes. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Malbec, and 10% Petit Verdot. Ash Hollow and Bella Terra vineyards. Aged in French oak (20% new). 14.8% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Onesies

The downturn in the economy has brought much to lament. However, it has also brought moments of joy in the form of lower priced wines. Long Shadows is one of the state’s finest wineries. However, almost all of their wines, with the exception of the consistently delicious Poet’s Leap, are at or above $50 – a price point most consumers have steered away from the past several years. Enter the Nine Hats label, named after the winery’s numerous winemakers.

Long Shadows Nine Hats Sangiovese Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Earth, cranberry, raspberry, and kisses of chocolate on an appealing aroma profile. The palate is tart and fruit-filled with a lingering finish. An excellent expression of Sangiovese at a can’t-be-beat price point given the quality. 14.6% alcohol.

The Owen Roe Ex Umbris – Latin for ‘out of the shadows’ – consistently provides extremely high quality at a compelling price point (and with one of the state's most minimalist labels). This is never truer than with the 2009 vintage, a beautiful wine with full throttle fruit flavors and minimal oak influence.

Owen Roe Ex Umbris Columbia Valley 2009 $24
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Aromas of raspberries, plums, and light chocolate. Palate has seamless, fresh, pure fruit flavors with great depth and intensity with a lick of cranberry. Alcohol shows through at times. 100% Syrah. Erickson Road (Columbia Valley), Six Prong, Lewis Vineyard, Outlook, Slide Mountain, Red Willow, and Union Gap vineyards. Aged 16 months in French oak (10% new). 14.8% alcohol. 4,862 cases produced.

Washington makes more Pinot Gris than Oregon. Where are all the wines?

In this month’s Five Wines Under $15, we take a look at Washington Pinot Gris with a cyber special 2:1 wine list. Read previous Five Under $15s here.






Scan the wine and grocery store shelves and you will find a good selection of Oregon Pinot Gris. You might be surprised then to hear that Washington makes more Pinot Gris than Oregon. In fact, Pinot Gris is Washington’s third most planted white grape at over 1,500 acres. The obvious question then is, where are all the wines?

Pinot Gris plantings have been on an astronomical rise in Washington in the last several years. According to the USDA, there were a mere 488 acres of Pinot Gris in Washington in 2006. By 2011, total plantings were 1,576 acres, meaning they have more than tripled in the last five years. No other grape in Washington has shown such a large percentage increase over this time. Nothing is even close.

As one would expect, production has increased dramatically as well. In 2006 Pinot Gris was fifth behind Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and even Gewurztraminer. By 2010 it had vaulted to third with 6,100 tons produced.

Meanwhile, Oregon produced 5,312 tons of Pinot Gris in 2010 from 2,747 acres. That’s right, Washington is currently making more Pinot Gris than Oregon - one of the state’s mainstay grapes.

Does something seem strange about this picture? Where is all of that Washington Pinot Gris?

Let’s look for it.

Yakima Valley is home to more than half of the state’s plantings at 855 acres. Columbia Valley is second at 248 acres and Horse Heaven Hills third at 138. After that there are a smattering of plantings in the Columbia Gorge, Rattlesnake Hills, Lake Chelan, and (gulp) Puget Sound.

But where are the wines? Again, in 2010 Washington produced 6,100 tons of Pinot Gris. Assuming a conservative 50 cases of wine per ton of grapes, one would expect to see over 300,000 cases of Pinot Gris produced in Washington in 2010. Recent production numbers don’t look remotely close to this.

In 2009, the last year for which good data are available, major wineries account for less than 200,000 cases of Pinot Gris (see table at bottom of post). This would leave a gap of more than 100,000 cases.

Where is all of this Pinot Gris going?

There would seem to be two possibilities. The first is that a wave of Washington Pinot Gris is about to come our way. Given the large acreage increase in the last five years, many of these vines are just coming on line. If this is true, we can expect to see an increasing amount of Washington Pinot Gris on the shelves in the coming years. Still, this doesn’t account for what happened to the 6,100 tons of Pinot Gris in 2010.

A second possibility is that a large amount of Washington Pinot Gris is being blended into other varietal and non-varietally labeled white wines to stretch them out. The most likely candidate for varietal wines would be Chardonnay and then, perhaps, Sauvignon Blanc. At $765 per ton, Pinot Gris is considerably less expensive than Chardonnay ($899) and Sauvignon Blanc ($843) in Washington. Outside of comparably priced Semillon ($761), only the lowly Chenin Blanc at $688 per ton is less expensive in the state (NB: The only reason there is so much old vine Chenin Blanc in Washington is because it is used to stretch out other white wines).

It is also possible that Pinot Gris is making its way into large production, generic white blends. But what wines?

Regardless of where it’s all going and whether wineries are looking to stretch out their white wines or not, why would Washington vineyards be planting so much Pinot Gris in recent years?

Nationally, Pinot Gris is on the rise. The Wine Market Council recently noted that Pinot Gris consumption has increased steadily in the last five years with 39% of wine drinkers drinking the wine in 2010 up from 27% in 2006. According to Nielsen, Pinot Gris has had one of the largest volume increases in sales for white wines in the past year behind Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. So there do appear to be reasons for planting the grape.

Is Pinot Gris poised to become a hallmark white wine for Washington? It doesn’t seem likely. While many of the wines reviewed below were enjoyable, none gave particular cause for excitement. Unlike other grapes that have been on the rise recently in Washington – think Malbec, Grenache, and Tempranillo – Pinot Gris’ ascent seems to be caused more by market dynamics than by high quality wines that have captured consumer or critical attention.

Is there a common thread to Washington Pinot Gris? Looking at releases from the 2009 and 2010 vintages below, it is difficult to say. Washington’s Pinot Gris are all light in color. Most are lightly aromatic with spice, straw, and apple notes, occasionally veering into a more tropical realm. The wines are medium to medium-plus bodied, separating them from many of their white wine peers. Most are 100% varietal and fermented and aged in stainless steel. But there the story ends, without something truly distinguishing or distinctive.

Ultimately, while Washington Pinot Gris is still in its early days, it’s hard to see why one would drink these wines over say Chardonnay (light to medium bodied, often with more acidity), Sauvignon Blanc (more acidity), or Riesling (more aromatic, more acidity, and considerably more diverse). Still, with all of this Pinot Gris planted, some Washington winemakers are sure to create wines that capture the imagination. Could a Pinot Gris gold rush follow? Only time will tell.

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2010 $12
Rating: + (Good) Pale lemon yellow. Moderately aromatic with spice and pear. Palate is broad and medium bodied with a drawn out mouthfeel. Lingers on the finish. A pleasing, well made wine. 97.5% Pinot Gris, 2.5% Pinot Blanc. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13% alcohol. Recommended.

Dusted Valley Vintners Boomtown Pinot Gris Washington State 2010 $13
Rating: + (Good) Just the slightest tinge of color. A lightly aromatic wine with bananas and other tropical fruit and apple. The palate has a spritzy feel and is full of mango and banana flavors with a crisp finish. A very clean, enjoyable wine. 100% Pinot Gris. Evergreen Vineyard. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.0% alcohol. Recommended. Reviewed November 18, 2011

Sockeye Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley 2010 $12
Rating: + (Good) Pale lemon yellow. Considerably more aromatic than the other wines sampled here with grass, lemon, hay, and bananas. The palate is medium bodied, full of banana flavors, with a rounded feel. 75% Pinot Gris, 16% Sauvignon Blanc, and 9% Roussanne. Canyon Ranch, Phil Church, A&R, and Willow Crest vineyards. 13.0% alcohol. 0.37% Residual Sugar. 1,542 cases produced. Recommended

Columbia Crest H3 Pinot Gris Horse Heaven Hills 2009 $15
Rating: + (Good) Pale lemon yellow. Very lightly aromatic with straw and a distinct aniseed note. Palate is medium bodied and broad with a textured feel, full of apple flavors with a spice filled finish. Despite the small percentage used, the oak plays a notable part in this show, broadening out the wine and contributing to spice flavors on the finish. 92% Pinot Gris, 8% Pinot Blanc. 92% fermented and aged in stainless steel. 8% fermented and aged in two-year-old American oak. 13.0% alcohol. 5,000 cases produced.

Chateau Ste Michelle Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2009 $13
Rating: + (Good) Pale lemon yellow. A fairly aromatic wine with yellow apple, straw, and buttery spices. Palate is medium-plus bodied with an almost creamy feel accented by moderate acidity. 94% Pinot Gris, 6% Viognier. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.5% alcohol.

Hogue Cellars Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley 2010 $11
Rating: + (Good) Pale lemon yellow. Very lightly aromatic with yellow apple, spice, and traces of tropical fruit. Palate is medium bodied with a broad feel. Appears to have just the slightest touch of Residual Sugar. A very enjoyable, well made wine. 50,000 cases produced. 13.4% alcohol.

Columbia Crest Two Vines Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley 2009 $8
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Pale lemon yellow. Very lightly aromatic with yellow apple and spice notes. Palate is medium bodied and a bit more generous in texture than the other wines sampled here with a drawn out feel. Overall an enjoyable, easy drinker. 12.5% alcohol. 50,000 cases produced.

Waterbrook Winery Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2010 $11
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Considerably more aromatic than most of the wines sampled here with ripe yellow apple, pear, white grapefruit, and banana. The palate is tear dropped shaped, starting out broadly and then tapering off with abundant pear and floral notes. 100% Pinot Gris. 0.54% Residual Sugar. 12.3% alcohol. 2,000 cases produced.

Barnard Griffin Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2009 $12
Rating: . (Decent) Very pale in color. Aromatically the wine has a distinct funk to it along with spice notes. The palate is medium bodied with a slightly tart finish. Caroway Vineyard (Columbia Valley), Gunkel Vineyard (Columbia Valley), and Freepons Vineyard (Yakima Valley). Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.01% alcohol. 0.2g/100ml Residual Sugar. 560 cases produced.

Columbia Winery Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2009 $11
Rating: . (Decent) Pale lemon yellow. Very lightly aromatic with straw, spice, and apple. Shows some alcohol. Medium bodied, the wine comes off as somewhat short, tart, and bitter. On the low end of this section of the scale. 13.0% alcohol.

Table - 2009 Pinot Gris Production by Brand

Wine	Cases
Chateau Ste. Michelle Pinot Gris 2009	58,000
Columbia Crest Pinot Grigio Two Vines 2009	50,000
Hogue Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley 2009	31,200
Columbia Crest Grand Estates Pinot Grigio 2009	14,000
Columbia Crest H3 Pinot Gris 2009	5,000
Milbrandt Traditions Pinot Gris 2009	3,972
Mercer Pinot Gris Yakima Valley 2009	2,396
Waterbrook Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2009	1,958
Dusted Valley Boomtown Pinot Gris Washington 2009	1,800
Ross Andrew Pinot Gris Columbia Gorge 2009	550
Hyatt Vineyards Pinot Gris Rattlesnake Hills 2009	814
Total Cases	169, 690

NB: Columbia Winery made 8,376 cases of Pinot Gris in 2008. 2009 numbers were not available.

Tasting Note Database updated

Reminder: This month's Virtual Tasting is coming up Wednesday from 7-8pm Pacific. Read about how to participate here.

The Tasting Note Database has been updated to the present date. See the database here. Read an explanation of database fields here.

Washington Wine Round-up November 15th to 21st 2011

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from November 15^th to 21^st. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

Top winemakers take up the Tofurkey challenge, including Jean Francois Pellet of Amavi Cellars and Pepperbridge.

Houston Press recommends Pacific Rim Riesling for Thanksgiving.

Business Insider writes about Thanksgiving wines with a callout to Snoqualmie’s Naked Riesling.

D Magazine writes about Thanksgiving wines with a callout to Amavi Cellars Syrah.

Maui Time talks with Travis Goff about Pepper Bridge Winery.


From the blogosphere…

The Wine Economist writes about the passage of Initiative 1183.

Fermentation writes that Washington State’s alcohol law needs further fixing.

Eater writes about Treveri Cellars served at the White House. They also write about Thanksgiving wines with a callout to Buty and Wine Spectator’s Top 100.

The Wine Economist writes about why Initiative 1183 succeeded whereas 1100 failed.

Paul Gregutt writes some random thoughts.

Woodinville Patch writes about Thanksgiving wines.

Table Talk writes about places to have Thanksgiving dinner.

NW Wine Anthem writes about Patterson Cellars Forbidden White.

Sips & The City writes about a William Church winemaker dinner.

Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about tempranillo and tapas.

GeekWire writes about the Microsoftee starting a new winery.

Wine Peeps writes about the 2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Gewurztraminer.

Edward Matsuwaka at WAwineman writes about the 2007 McKinley Springs Syrah.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about the Hamilton Cellars rose of Malbec.


From the locals…

Puget Sound Business Journal writes about the Washington Wine Commission and Seattle Convention and Visitors Bureau partnering to put on Taste Washington.

Seattle Wine Gal talks about holiday wines on King 5.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about holiday wine pairings.

Issaquah Press writes about the passage of Initiative 1183. They also write about Twin Cedars Winery.

The Yakima Herald writes about small stores hoping that the legislature levels the playing field on 1183.

Tasting Room Magazine writes about the new partnership for Taste Washington.

The Spokesman-Review writes about the effect of 1183 on local liquor stores.

The Seattle Times writes about the expanding of Taste Washington.

Port Townsend Leader says liquor store workers will lose their jobs with the passage of 1183.

KOMO News writes about the expansion of Taste Washington.

Central Kitsap Reporter writes about social impacts of 1183.

Whidbey Examiner writes that grocers are uncertain about entering the liquor market.

Vashon Maury Island Beachcomber says liquor store owners are unsure if they will close.

East Oregonian writes about the Tri-Cities Wine Festival.


Leftovers (articles missed from previous weeks)…

Washington State Wire writes about small grocers looking to make changes to Initiative 1183 changes.

Schiller Wine writes about a trip to Hightower.

Wine Press NW writes about harvest wrapping up.


That's all folks!

Washington birdies early on Wine Spectator list, bogeys on the back nine

Washington wines were once again well represented on Wine Spectator’s annual Top 100 list with seven wines listed, including two in the top fifteen. All of the Washington wines selected were in the first fifty.

The highest ranking Washington wine was the 2008 Baer Ursa, which came in at number 6. This is the first time that a wine from Woodinville’s Baer Winery has been listed in Wine Spectator’s Top 100, an affirmation of the winery’s path since the tragic passing of Lance Baer in 2007.

Fellow Woodinville winery Efeste made another appearance in the Top 100 list – it’s second since its inaugural vintage in 2006. The 2008 Jolie Bouche Syrah from Boushey Vineyard came in at number 15. This is the highest a Washington Syrah has ever ranked in Wine Spectator’s annual Top 100 list, a nod to both the quality and value to be found in these wines in Washington. Mark my word. A Washington Syrah will one day make it to the top of this list.

This year’s Top 100 also included a group of wineries that are not strangers to the list, including Januik, Owen Roe, Andrew Will, Tamarack, and L’Ecole No 41. Of note, this is the second year in a row that Owen Roe and Tamarack have been on the list. For Walla Walla Valley’s L’Ecole No 41, it was the capstone of a year that also saw a successful rebranding. Showing that the list makers also have a sense of humor, L’Ecole’s wine came in at No. 41.

Read the entire list here. Note that full access to Wine Spectator is free until November 26^th.

Don’t Panic Picking Thanksgiving Wines

Seattleites tune in to Q13 Tuesday at 5:30pm when I'll be talking about Thanksgiving wines.

Thanksgiving can cause a great deal of stress: the preparation, the cooking - the relatives. Don’t let picking wines become one of the problems.

More than any other meal, Thanksgiving can present wine pairing issues if you take it too seriously. So don’t. My only rule for Thanksgiving wines is…don’t break the bank because there’s a lot going on that day and the wine will be flowing freely.

The diversity of food at the table and the assortment of friends and family feasting assures that one size won’t fit all. Thanksgiving therefore presents the perfect opportunity to experiment with wine pairings by offering a wide assortment of wines, from sparkling to whites, roses, and reds.

Sparkling wines provide perhaps the most breadth in terms of pairing, whether as an aperitif or alongside the main course. In Washington, Domaine Ste. Michelle, made in the methode champenoise, offers a great bang for the buck (see review below). Or drink like the White House does with some Treveri Cellars, such as their sparkling Gewurztraminer (see review below).

Moving on to whites but sticking with Gewurztraminer - if you struggle saying this, think, ‘girlsaremeaner’ which makes the pronunciation both easy and unforgettable - try the 2010 Dowsett Family ($20) or 2010 Domaine Pouillon ($15). Both from the Columbia Gorge, these two wines showcase this grape’s inherent spiciness and can bring out some wonderful accents to Thanksgiving fare.

Riesling also has a place at the table, with its high natural acidity and apple and stone fruit flavors complementing turkey and stuffing. There’s an abundance of good to excellent Riesling made in Washington. Try the 2010 Pacific Rim Columbia Valley Riesling ($10), 2010 Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl ($12), or 2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling ($8). Or move up a bit in price with two of the state’s flagship bottles, Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen’s 2010 Eroica Riesling ($20, see review below) or Long Shadows 2010 Poet’s Leap ($20).

If you’re looking for a white that’s a bit more full-bodied, try the DeLille Cellars 2009 Chaleur Estate Blanc $32 (see review below). This beautiful Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend is oak aged, giving the wine enough body and weight to stand up to turkey day without being overpowering. Or go with a racier style of the same blend with the 2010 Cadaretta SBS ($23) - among my favorites from the 2010 vintage.

Dry roses also fit in well at Thanksgiving - stay away from the sweet stuff as items like cranberry sauce are guaranteed to make the wine taste sour and many won’t have the acid to pair well with turkey. One of my favorites this year is the 2010 Barnard Griffin Rose of Sangiovese ($12), which offers bright cherry flavors and spice.

In terms of red wines, leave the trophy Cabernets for after dinner. The tannins and oak on these wines can often overwhelm turkey. Instead, go with Pinot Noir, which makes a wonderful pairing, drawing out spice and earth tones of the herbs in stuffing.

Pinot has never been one of Washington’s strengths. No matter. Look just south to Oregon where there are an abundance of high quality wines. One Pinot value comes from A to Z Wine Works 2009 Pinot Noir $20 (see review below). Two other well priced wines are from Stoller Vineyards, the 2008 JV Pinot Noir ($25) and 2007 SV Pinot Noir ($40) reviewed below. Both of the Stoller wines possess bright fruit flavors and a sublime earthy quality, showcasing Oregon’s signature grape.

Grenache and Grenache blends can also fit in well as the oak and tannins are often restrained on these wines. The 2009 releases from Maison Bleue offer an embarrassment of riches - can you say Winery of the Year? - from the 2009 Jaja Red Wine ($20), 2009 Le Midi Grenache ($35), 2009 La Montagnette Grenache ($35), and 2009 Graviere ($40). These are all outrageously high quality, well priced wines that are guaranteed to wow your guests. Two other favorites from 2009 are the Betz Family Winery Besoleil ($45) and Gramercy Cellars The Third Man ($45).

All of these Grenache-based wines are so delicious – and moving up into higher price points – that you may want to have a secret hideaway to pour them to make sure Uncle Fred doesn’t guzzle the whole bottle without knowing what it is.

Finally, when it comes time for the pie pairings, think about a Port-style wine. A number of wineries in Washington have begun experimenting with these wines in recent years, using traditional grapes such as Touriga Nacional, Tinta Cao, and Souzao. One recent favorite is the Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Opulento ($18) (see review below). This wine is enjoyable enough to stand on its own while also being sweet enough to stand up to pecan pie.

Whatever you go with, remember that Thanksgiving is supposed to be fun so relax and have a good time. And just in case the family isn’t making you feel too thankful, at least you’ll be drinking some good wine!

Happy Thanksgiving! And make sure to let me know what you're planning to open.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Sparkling Wine NV $12
Rating: + (Good) Pleasing aromas of green apple, lime, and autolytic notes. The palate is just off dry with crisp citrus flavors. 88% Chardonnay, 12% Pinot Noir. 12.1% alcohol. 1.19% Residual Sugar. 191,540 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Recommended

Treveri Cellars Gewurztraminer Demi Sec Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $18
Rating: + (Good) An outrageously aromatic wine full of all of the grape’s inherent spice and floral notes. The palate is medium-plus sweet but finishes dry with abundant spice flavors. This is a fun wine that is guaranteed to be a good conversation piece.

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen Eroica Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale lemon yellow. An aromatic wine with a cornucopia of ripe peaches and nectarines, along with pear and whiffs of lime zest. Palate has rounded feel and a zing of acidity that runs from start to lingering finish along with persistent lime flavors. 100% Riesling. Zillah Ranch and Evergreen vineyards. Fermented at aged in stainless steel. 12.5% alcohol. 1.64g/100ml Residual Sugar.

DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate Blanc Columbia Valley 2009 $34
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Consistently one of the finest white wines made in the state – with a correspondingly high price point – the 2009 Chaleur Estate Blanc from DeLille Cellars is another standout full of herbal notes, citrus, crushed nuts, oak spices, and gooseberries. Lingers on the finish. 62% Sauvignon Blanc, 38% Semillon. Boushey, Sagemoor, and Klipsun vineyards.

A to Z Wine Works Pinot Noir Oregon 2009 $20
Rating: + (Good) An aromatically appealing wine with plum, cream, strawberry, spice, and mint. Glides across the palate with vanilla and strawberry flavors with a silky, almost creamy feel. Has a bitter note toward the finish that fades as the bottle opens up. 13.5% alcohol. 79,023 cases produced.

Stoller Vineyards Pinot Noir JV Dundee Hills 2008 $25
Rating: + (Good) An aromatic wine with moist earth, strawberry, and mint. The palate is light bodied, delicate, and nuanced. A tart finish. 100% Pinot Noir. Aged in French oak (35% new). 13.5% alcohol. 5,810 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Recommended

Stoller Vineyards Pinot Noir SV Dundee Hills 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) A fruit forward wine with strawberry, cherry, vanilla, and light earth aromas. The palate is plump and expands with red fruit and light smoke flavors. A tart, lingering finish. 100% Pinot Noir. 1,950 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Brian Carter Opulento Fortified Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $18
Rating: * (Excellent) Made in a Ruby Port style, this wine is lightly aromatic with spice, tea leaves, and lemon twist. The palate is rich and seamless, full of chocolate, caramel, and dark cherries. An extended finish. 60% Touriga National, 37% Souzao, 3% Tinta Cao. Upland and Lonesome Springs vineyards. Aged 22 months in French oak (20% new). 10% Residual Sugar. 19% alcohol. 449 cases produced.