Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.



In this month’s Five Wines Under $15 we focus on Riesling. Riesling not only represents Washington’s second most planted white grape at 6,320 acres (Chardonnay is first at 7,654), it also consistently provides wines with tremendously high quality-to-price ratios. As a result, there is an abundance of good to excellent Riesling being produced in Washington at $15 and under - more if you go up a dollar or two. Here we focus on three wineries that are leading the Riesling charge in Washington.



Chateau Ste. Michelle is the world's largest producer of Riesling, making over one million cases annually in up to eight different styles from dry to dessert. The winery hosts a Riesling Rendezvous every other year with tastings and seminars that draw producers and consumers from across the globe. The winery’s Eroica Riesling, made in collaboration with the German producer Dr. Loosen, is a benchmark for Washington.



Chateau Ste. Michelle makes over 600,000 cases of its Columbia Valley Riesling alone. This consistently high quality-to-price ratio wine comes in at a mere $9 tariff (locals should note that for August’s Washington Wine Month, the price is lower in many locations). At last year’s Riesling Rendezvous when the 2009 vintage of this wine was sampled in a blind flight and winemaker Wendy Stuckey subsequently stated the price, the room of hundreds of people spontaneously broke into applause.



The 2010 wine, reviewed below, is every bit as good and received our second ever unanimous ‘buy’ vote from participants in this month’s Virtual Tasting. If the mood or meal calls for something with less sugar, go with the Dry Riesling at the same price point.



In its diverse collection of Rieslings, Chateau Ste. Michelle makes one vineyard-designated wine, which comes from Cold Creek Vineyard. Planted in the 1970s, this vineyard, which lies about 40 miles east of Yakima, traditionally boasts a long and warm growing season. A vineyard designate for $15? Yes please.



Washington’s founding winery is not alone in its devotion to the grape. Ninety percent of the production at Pacific Rim is devoted to Riesling, and the winery makes over 250,000 cases annually.



Pacific Rim was originally part of Randall Grahm’s lineup at Bonny Doon. However, it became its own winery in 2006 when a group of Bonny Doon expats headed north in search of Riesling glory. The winery was recently purchased by the Mariani family.



Pacific Rim boasts a diverse lineup of over 10 different Rieslings, including organic, biodynamic, sparkling, and single vineyard offerings. On the educational front, the winery authors the book ‘Riesling Rules,’ extolling the grape’s virtues, as well as a video – Rated R for Riesling of course. In a consistently impressive lineup, the Columbia Valley Riesling in particular, reviewed below, represents an outrageous value year after year.



Last but certainly not least, Charles Smith Wines has also been making a splash with its Kung Fu Girl Riesling. With a label image made in Smith’s iconic black and white style, this wine has been making Riesling inroads across America – and says Washington State in bold black letters on the front of every label. To call this an ambassador wine, however, would be a misnomer; it is a one wine Riesling fighting machine.



Fruit for the Kung Fu Girl wine comes from Evergreen Vineyard in the proposed Ancient Lakes AVA region. This area is currently one of the locations in the state where Riesling has shown the most success. In fact, much of the fruit used in Eroica comes from this vineyard. Other wineries, such as Efeste, make superb vineyard-designated bottlings.



The vineyards at Evergreen – which are currently rapidly expanding - are full of fractured basalt and caliche deposits. Combined with a cool location leading to wines with high acidity, Riesling from Evergreen has a minerality that makes devotees swoon. Charles Smith has been ramping up production of the KFG to exceed 50,000 cases annually.



For consumers, knowing what style of wine to expect when purchasing a bottle of Riesling has always been an issue. The International Riesling Foundation has recently attempted to address this with the Riesling Taste Profile. Turn a bottle of Riesling around and one will frequently find a back label that shows the IRF scale - if it was bottled in the last couple years.



What has the consumer response been to this Riesling revival? According to Nielsen data, Riesling is on the rise, showing one of the largest percentage increases in volume sales in the last year. Perhaps it’s the diversity of foods Riesling pairs so well with from spicy dishes to seafood. Perhaps its because it’s so darn good.



For each of the wines listed below, I’ve never had a bad bottle vintage after vintage. How many other wines can you say that for, especially with price points that barely break into the teens? One of many reasons why Riesling rules.



Read previous Five Under $15s here.



Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $9

Rating: + (Good) A fruit forward, aromatically appealing wine full of ripe tangerine and pear. Rounded and crisp on the palate with pink grapefruit, pear, and peach with well-balanced fruit, sugar, and acidity. 100% Riesling. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 11% alcohol. 2.29% Residual Sugar. Recommended. Sample provided by winery.



Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $9

Rating: + (Good) Appealing aromas of lime and white peach. The palate is crisp with tart acidity. 100% Riesling. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.0% alcohol. 0.75g/100ml Residual Sugar. Sample provided by winery.



Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling Cold Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2010 $15

Rating: * (Excellent) Aromatic and full of ultra ripe peaches - the kind that melt in your mouth - along with key lime and white flowers. Off-dry with fruit that carries seamlessly across the palate followed by a long finish. 100% Riesling. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.5% alcohol. 2.18 g/100 ml Residual Sugar. 7,464 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Pacific Rim Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $11

Rating: * (Excellent) Pale lemon yellow. An aromatically compelling wine with floral notes, peaches, and jasmine. The palate is medium-dry and full off mandarin orange and lime flavors, beautifully stitched together with a zing of acidity that carries along to a lingering finish. 100% Riesling. 11.5% alcohol. 2.3% Residual Sugar.



Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling Washington State 2010 $12

Rating: + (Good) An aromatic wine full of ripe yellow apples, the underside of an unripe pineapple, lime zest, quinine, and mineral notes. Palate comes off as just off-dry and tear-drop shaped with a textured feel and a zing of acidity. 100% Riesling. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.5% alcohol. 1.58% Residual Sugar. Recommended

Tasting through the current set of releases from winemaker Chris Gorman of Gorman Winery, it is hard to think of a Washington winery that has a more impressive lineup.

Chris Gorman began his career in the wine business right out of college in 1991. He started out on the import and distribution side where he would remain until he decided to focus on his winery full time. “I spent sixteen years selling world-class wines,” Gorman explains. Of course, Gorman could add the subsequent years as well – his wines are easily that caliber.

Gorman started out working at Bianco Rosso Imports, working in the warehouse, driving trucks, and, like many a college graduate, trying to work his way up. From Bianco Rosso he went to work for Elliott Bay Distributing, which Gorman describes as “the best job ever.” The position afforded him the opportunity to travel to the likes of Spain, Italy, and Germany and immerse himself in the areas’ wines. “I’m fascinated by those grand wines,” Gorman says.

Perhaps most importantly, Gorman’s work allowed him both to develop an appreciation of world wine and to make connections throughout the wine industry – from retailers to distributors, winemakers, growers, and barrel producers. When Gorman decided to shift his focus from the distribution to the production side of the business, it wasn’t hard to know who to call when he needed something. “It was real easy to run and grab fruit,” Gorman says of getting started.

Gorman’s first wine was a Ciel du Cheval Cabernet Sauvignon made from fruit he secured from friend Matthew Loso, then of Matthews Cellars (now called Matthews Estate). Then in 2001 he received two tons of Cabernet from Pepper Bridge. “That was what really made me want to make wine,” Gorman says.

In 2002 Gorman made his first commercial vintage at his eponymous winery. His early wines were made at the co-op at Woodinville Wine Cellars, where friend and fellow winemaker Mark McNeilly, of Mark Ryan Winery, was also making wine. Both would later move to the Warehouse District.

Gorman and McNeilly had met in college. Gorman was in a band in Bellingham. The drummer moved out, McNeilly moved in, and the rest, as they say, is history. In addition to helping define a style in Washington at their respective wineries, Gorman and McNeilly have collaborated on wines at Giant Wine Co. (Sinner’s Punch, Ghost of 413) and both also make wine at Grand Reve Vintners.

Gorman’s band roots are clear. The winery walls are adorned with guitars and music paraphernalia. Rock music is inevitably playing – in fact one cannot visit the winery without leaving with a song stuck in your head.

Despite this, as a winemaker Gorman has been a one-man show. Until last year, when he hired an assistant for the first time due to scheduling issues during harvest, he was the winery’s sole employee.

While many Washington wineries are small operations, Gorman’s process is particularly labor intensive for one person. Gorman often barrel ferments his wines, requiring continual moving of juice in and out of barrels. This makes for particularly long days and nights during harvest.

A labor of love? “It’s a love/hate relationship with making wine,” Gorman says. “It’s a challenge every year.”

Once fermentation is complete, Gorman presses his wines early, getting them into the barrel as quickly as possible. From there he looks to leave them alone, racking infrequently.

All of the Gorman wines have colorful, character names, which he says are intended to be descriptive of the grape varietals used. “Big Sissy is perfect for Chardonnay,” he explains, given the grape’s finicky nature. Other wine names include The Albatross (Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot), The Evil Twin (Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon), The Bully (Cabernet), and The Pixie (Syrah). Fruit for most of the wines comes from Red Mountain.

In addition to the standard lineup, Gorman likes to experiment, or as he says, “Every year we do something dumb.” In 2010 it was creating a late harvest Viognier – Serum 6 - as a quasi ice wine, freezing the grapes in a commercial freezer. The juice was at least 50 Brix at harvest (“50 is all I can measure,” he says), and Gorman ultimately squeezed 80 gallons of wine out of two tons of grapes.

Does this folly make financial sense? “We hemorrhage money at Gorman winery,” Gorman says with a laugh.

Perhaps, but from the beginning, Gorman Winery has garnered a strong consumer following as well as critical praise. The house style is to create big, bold, intense wines. “I like power and finesse,” Gorman says, and the wines are a compelling interplay between the two.

The 2009 Big Sissy Chardonnay, barrel fermented in 100% new French oak, would give many a California Chard a run for its money at a fraction of the price. The 2008 The Albatross, a third Petit Verdot and two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, some of which comes from the oldest plantings on Red Mountain, is a stunningly rich, intense wine that reaches up into the quality stratosphere. The 2009 Behind the Black Curtain Reserve Syrah, a first from the winery which Gorman says is currently the wine he is most excited about, is a showstopper with dazzling mineral notes and layers of black fruit. Almost all of the wines are made in small lots of 500 cases or less.

The style of the Gorman wines is not shy. The fruit flavors are big, the use of French oak is generous, and the wines are high octane, although never out of balance. To wit, when I noticed at an event a couple years back that Gorman was pouring a barrel sample listed at 16% alcohol, I asked, “Really? 16%?” “At least,” Gorman replied. Quite simply, as Nigel from Spinal Tap might say, these wines go to eleven.

Gorman Winery makes approximately 3,000 cases annually.

Gorman Winery The Big Sissy Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Beautiful, compelling aromas of spice, butter, ripe apples, and tropical fruit. A rich, full wine with a creamy, textured mouthfeel and a long finish. 100% Chardonnay. Conner Lee Vineyard. Barrel fermented in 100% new French oak with partial malolactic fermentation. 225 cases produced.

Gorman Winery The Pixie Syrah Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color. Compelling aromas of violets, mineral, spice, and dark fruit. A dense, textured, rich, fruit-filled wine with lingering chocolate and mineral flavors. 100% Syrah. Ciel du Cheval and Kiona-End of the Road Ranch vineyards. Aged in French oak (90% new). 240 cases produced.

Gorman Winery The Evil Twin Red Mountain 2008 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color with purple at the rim. Dark and brooding with abundant brambly fruit, high-toned bittersweet chocolate, and high-toned floral and mineral notes. The aromas are so engaging it’s difficult to take the first sip. Ah but when you do…dense and grippy, full of blackberry flavors and tannins that squeeze the tongue. A beautiful melding of these two varietals, or, as Gorman says, “If they can grow together, why can’t they go together?” 65% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in 100% new French oak. 425 cases produced.

Gorman Winery The Bully Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A perfumed wine that draws you into the glass with bittersweet chocolate, dark fruit, and high-toned herbal and mineral notes. On the palate, a huge, rich, intense, incredibly dense wine that is chock full of fruit and tannins. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot. Aged in 100% new French oak. 600 cases produced.

Gorman Winery The Albatross Red Mountain 2008 $80
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark to the point of being opaque. A perfumed wine full of earth, soil, floral notes, and dark fruit. On the palate, a gigantically rich, intense wine that packs a huge wallop with focused fruit flavors and textured, ripe tannins. Though not for the faint of heart, this wine stands with the best in the state and is high on the list of the best wines I have had this year. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Petit Verdot. Kiona Vineyard. Aged in 100% new French oak. 140 cases produced.

Gorman Winery The F.O.G Reserve Merlot Red Mountain 2009 $NA
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Intensely dark in color. Compelling aromas of dark licorice, mocha, floral notes, and dark fruit. A powerhouse on the palate with the darkest of fruit, earth notes, and dense, tightly packed tannins. About as big and intense as Merlot gets. 100% Merlot. Kiona Vineyard. Aged in French oak (100% new). 25 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Behind the Black Curtain Reserve Syrah Klipsun Vineyard Red Mountain 2009 $80
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Opaque and glass staining with purple at the rim. Leaps up with mineral, violets, black fruit, and licorice on an aromatically intoxicating, complex wine. On the palate, a muscular wine that is equal parts complex and intense with rich fruit flavors and polished tannins. Pushing the higher ranges of the scoring scale. Aged 20 month in French oak (100% new). 100 cases produced.

Serum 6 Late Harvest Viognier Elerding Vineyard Yakima Valley 2010 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Pale lemon colored. Leaps up from the glass with apricot and sugared pineapple. The palate is intensely thick, rich, and sugared. Lingers on the finish. 100% Viognier. Barrel fermented in 100% new French oak. 10.2% alcohol. 33% Residual Sugar. 51 cases produced.

REMINDER: Tonight! The August Virtual Tasting from 7pm-8pm Pacific. Read about how to participate here.



A round-up of stories on Washington wine from August 15th to 21st. Read previous round-ups here.



From around the country…



Wine Spectator writes about Hestia Cellars and Zero One.



MSNBC writes about Washington wine’s campaign in India.





From the blogosphere…



Schiller-Wine visits Pacific Rim.



Northwest Wine Anthem writes about the Substance Sauvignon Blanc.



Lucha Vino compares a Washington Mourvedre to a Spanish Monastrell.



Sips & the City writes about Washington wine in Alaska.



Woodinville Wine Update writes about upcoming events.



Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Myles Anderson of Walla Walla Vintners being named to the Legends of Washington Wine Hall of Fame.



Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog writes about the proposed Naches Heights AVA.



Wine Peeps writes about Columbia Crest’s Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine. They also write about limited release wines from Chateau Ste. Michelle.



Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about lunch with Christophe Hedges.



Bottle Notes writes about visiting Walla Walla.





From the locals…



The Puget Sound Business Journal writes about the Washington wine industry targeting India.



Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt asks when the best time is to open wine.



KEPRTV writes about the Washington Wine Commission committing $7.4M to the WSU Wine Science Center.



The Tri-City Herald wriets about the 2011 harvest.



The Tri-Cities Area Journal of Business writes about funding for the Wine Science Center as does Washington Tasting Room Magazine.



Whatcom Magazine writes about Davenlore.





Leftovers (posts missed from previous weeks)…



Schiller-Wine writes about oyster wines.





That’s all folks!

Reminder that this month's Virtual Tasting takes place Thursday at 7pm Pacific. Read about how to participate here.



The September issue of Seattle Metropolitan magazine will be in stores this week and features this year's list of the Top 100 Washington wines.



A few words about how the list was compiled. As stated in the article, wineries were allowed to send in a maximum of four wines, one in each of the following categories: one $25 or less; one $25–$50; one $50 or higher; and one white wine of any price. Note that this means that if a winery only offers three red wines at $35, they could only enter one wine. Wines were then rated using a 100-point scale. See the issue for additional information about how this was done. A cutoff of 91 points was used to create the list. Note that due to the extraordinarily high number of submissions - more than 400 - there were a number of excellent wines that did not make this year's list.



For digital devotees, you can read an electronic copy of the Top 100 list here (click on 'Print' to see the list on a single page) as well as a list of 90-point rated white wines, also included in the print issue, here. Finally, see a list of 90-point rated reds, available on-line only, here. Those interested in reading last year's Top 100 list will find it here.



Enjoy!

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from August 8th to 14th. See previous round-ups here.



From around the country…



The Iowa Press-Citizen says don’t discount Washington wines.



D Magazine writes about Northstar Merlot.



SC Now asks ‘Who makes the wine you drink?’



The Portland Press Herald writes about Riesling.





From the blogosphere…



NW Wine Anthem writes about Treveri Cellars. They also write about wine tasting at the Woodland Park Zoo.



Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Fjellene Cellars. Catie also writes about wines with a T and does some summer swooning on Viognier.



Seattle’s Big Blog writes about Stink Bugs.



Woodinville Patch writes about tap wine.



Blue Collar Wine Guy writes about Hedges.



Table Talk writes about white wine.



Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Hedges.



Under the Grape Tree writes about Washington wine.



Lucha Vino compares a Washington Grenache to a Spanish Garnacha.



WINO Magazine writes about BLEND.



Wine Peeps writes about the 2008 Boomtown Syrah. They also write about Robert Ramsay Cellars.



Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about a farm to table beer and wine dinner.





From the locals…



The Kitsap Sun writes about pairing spicy food with wines from Pacific Rim.



The Tri-City Herald writes about 2009 reds.



The News Tribune writes about Washington wine month.



The Seattle Weekly writes about rating systems.



Seattlest wades through the quagmire of Washington wine month.





That's all folks!

If you want to see which way the Woodinville wine industry is going, watching what Mark Ryan Winery is up to would be a good place to start.



Winemaker Mark Ryan McNeilly has been in the vanguard. McNeilly got his start in the wine industry working at Unique Wine Company, a local distributor. It was in the midst of a tasting group that he had his first Washington wine epiphany. The wine was a Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon. “This is made in our state?” McNeilly recalls thinking with astonishment.



Inspired, McNeilly bought his first grapes in 1999 from a home winemaker – a ton of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The vineyard source would be a fateful one, Red Mountain’s Ciel du Cheval. More important than the grapes, McNeilly got ahold of grower Jim Holmes’ phone number. With a call, he was able to secure access to fruit from this esteemed vineyard for subsequent vintages.



Mark Ryan Winery had its first commercial vintage in 2000 with two red blends – the Long Haul and Dead Horse, both Ciel du Cheval designates. These two wines, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant Bordeaux-style blends, remain the backbone of the winery.



McNeilly started off making wine at the co-op at Woodinville Wine Cellars’ facility. His first two vintages were the definition of hand-made wines, using a ratchet basket press with a hand crank. “I would spend the entire fermentation picking out stems,” McNeilly laughs.



Production moved to the Warehouse District in 2003. At the time, this area was just a quiet industrial park. “There was Austin Robaire and us,” McNeilly says. The area now has over 20 wineries and tasting rooms and has become a destination.



The early years at the winery were intense. “My head was just buried in grapes. I didn’t look up much,” McNeilly says. McNeilly credits Matthew Loso, then with Matthews Cellars, with helping him along the way. Ciel du Cheval grower Jim Holmes also provided invaluable assistance. “I used to call him all the time. He was my go-to guy,” McNeilly says. Erica Orr has also worked for the winery as a consultant.



As the winery picked up steam, McNeilly continued to work for Unique. However, he spent increasing amounts of time in the vineyards when he was supposed to be selling wine. “I think Scott (Murphy, Director of Sales and Marketing) still doesn’t know how much wine I was making when I was working at Unique!” McNeilly says with a chuckle. In 2004, McNeilly left Unique to focus on the winery full-time.



Mirroring the Woodinville and Washington wine industries, Mark Ryan Winery has grown and evolved over the years. In June of 2009 the winery opened a tasting room in the Schoolhouse District of Woodinville, making Mark Ryan again one of the first wineries in what is now a densely packed area. The tasting room is open seven days a week, and the winery now has three full-time employees.



One of them is Mike MacMorran who was hired as assistant winemaker starting with the 2008 harvest. McNeilly credits MacMorran, who came from DeLille Cellars, with helping give the wines better balance and managing Red Mountain’s famous tannins. “The wines used to be almost undrinkable for the first few years,” McNeilly says.



While McNeilly may have thought so, the winery’s legions of fans would surely disagree. From the beginning Mark Ryan Winery has garnered an almost cult-like following for its big, bold, no-holds-barred style wines. Along with close friend and fellow winemaker Chris Gorman of Gorman Winery, McNeilly’s wines have defined a style in Washington – and garnered critical praise.



The 2008 Bordeaux-blend releases and 2009 Rhone-style wines continue the winery’s track record of excellence. As always, the fruit flavors are rich and dense, and the winery accents the fruit with generous amounts of new French oak. While the refinement of the tannins is noticeable, these are still wines that will reward patience.



In a small but significant shift, the 2008 Long Haul and Dead Horse Red Wines are no longer Ciel du Cheval Vineyard designates. Instead, they are simply labeled Red Mountain. Vineyard sources for these wines now include Klipsun, Kiona, and Hedges.



What will Mark Ryan Winery do next? Only time will tell but no doubt much of the Woodinville wine industry will be watching – and sure to follow.



Mark Ryan Winery makes 6,000 cases annually.



Mark Ryan Winery Viognier Columbia Valley 2009 $28

Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatic wine with honeysuckle, apricot, toasty spice, and floral notes. A rich wine with a textured feel. 100% Viognier. Ciel du Cheval and Conner Lee vineyards. 78% aged in 10 months neutral French Oak, aged in 22% stainless steel. 14.2% alcohol.



Mark Ryan Winery The Dissident Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $32

Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with abundant bright berry aromas, bittersweet chocolate, licorice and blackberries. On the palate, rich, round, and lusciously fruit-filled. 41% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Syrah, 8% Malbec, and 8% Petit Verdot. Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun, Kiona, Obelisco, and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (51% new). 14.7% alcohol. 949 cases produced.



Mark Ryan Winery Long Haul Red Wine Red Mountain 2008 $45

Rating: ** (Exceptional) Aromatically compelling with spice, floral notes, mineral, high-toned chocolate, and red fruit. The palate is dense, rich, and opulent with chewy tannins. A lingering finish. 63% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 11% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec. Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun, Kiona, and Hedges vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak (81% new). 14.9% alcohol.



Mark Ryan Winery Dead Horse Red Wine Red Mountain 2008 $45

Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of floral notes, milk chocolate, mineral, blackberries, and other dark fruit. A rich, intensely focused wine. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 2% Malbec. Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun Vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak (92% new). 14.9% alcohol.



Mark Ryan Winery Lost Soul Syrah Les Vignes de Marcoux Vineyard Yakima Valley 2009 $45

Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing with mineral and floral notes, and high-toned blackberry. The palate is soft and silky with loads of black fruit flavors. A very pretty expression of Washington Syrah. 100% Syrah. Aged 16 months in French oak (33% new). 14.6% alcohol. 75 cases produced.



Mark Ryan Winery Wild Eyed Syrah Red Mountain 2009 $45

Rating: ** (Exceptional) Intoxicating aromas of violets, bittersweet chocolate, and dark fruit. A dense, rich, powerful, luscious wine. 100% Syrah. Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun, and Kiona vineyards. Aged 16 months in French oak (70% new). 14.6% alcohol. 447 cases produced.



Mark Ryan Winery Crazy Mary Mourvedre Red Mountain 2009 $45

Rating: ** (Exceptional) Aromas of mineral, spice, chocolate, and high-toned dark fruit. Incredibly rich with dense, opulent fruit flavors. 86% Mourvedre and 14% Syrah. Ciel du Cheval and Les Collines vineyards. Aged 16 months in French oak (55% new). 14.6% alcohol. 170 cases produced.



Mark Ryan Winery Lonely Heart Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2008 $80

Rating: ** (Exceptional) Incredibly compelling aromas of licorice, dark fruit, high-toned floral notes, and spice. Dense with grainy, textured tannins on an incredibly rich, flavorful, chewy wine. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Petit Verdot. Ciel du Cheval, Kiona, and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 22 months in French oak (100% new). 14.5% alcohol.

Well folks, August 2011 marks the 3rd anniversary of the blog's Virtual Tastings. To recap, each month I pick a single wine and we taste and talk about it on a specific date using a designated hashtag on Twitter. Join us!



To celebrate the third anniversary of the Virtual Tastings as well as the Summer of Riesling, August's wine will be the 2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling. This wine retails for $9 and is widely available. The tasting will take place Thursday August 25th from 7-8pm Pacific.



What you need to do to participate is:



1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery.



2. Post your comments/tweets on the wine between 7 and 8pm using the hashtag #stemichelle. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport.



Hope you will join us!

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from August 1st to 7th. Read previous round-ups here.





From around the country…



Wines & Vines writes about the effects of the closure of the state’s tourism bureau.





From the blogosphere…



The Wine Economist writes about how a Nuclear accident in the Ukraine launched Washington wine in Europe.



Gig Harbor Patch.com writes about vineyard designated wines with a few Washington recommendations.



AgInfo.net writes about Washington wine month.



Northwest Wine Anthem writes about the 2010 L’Ecole No 41 Chenin Blanc.



Table Talk gives the top 10 reasons to attend the Auction of Washington Wines. They also write about Oregon’s Spindrift Cellars.



Lucha Vino compares a Washington Syrah to an Aussie Shiraz.



Sips & The City writes about Lake Chelan Wine Weekend.



Woodinville Wine Update writes about Winery Village going on the auction block. Shona also writes about the Puget Sound Business Journal recognizing Elsom Cellars, upcoming events, and the return of the winemaker Olympics.



Wine Peeps writes about the 2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling. They also write about Woodward Canyon.



Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog writes about August events in Spokane.



Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about the Young Guns Wine Society. Catie also writes about Monesia’s Song and Blacksmith.



Under the Grapetree writes about Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest. He also writes about the 2010 Kung Fu Girl Riesling.



Write for Wine writes about the Auction of Washington Wines.





From the locals…



Writing for the Seattle Times Paul Gregutt writes about Mourvedre.



The Coer d’Alene Press writes about Walla Walla.



KIMA TV writes about wine tasting at visitors centers.



The Tri-City Herald writes about great wine deals for Washington wine month.



KEPR TV writes about Daven Lore’s use of reusable bottles.





That's all folks!

I’m going to go out on a limb here. Mountain climbers seem to make good winemakers. Now keep in mind that mountain climbing is one of my primary passions so I may be a bit biased here, but there are a few compelling data points. Chuck Reininger of Reininger Winery and Rob Newsom of Boudreaux Cellars were both formerly professional guides and have shown winemaking talent. Add Eric Murphy’s name to that list.



Murphy, of Ott & Murphy, works as a guide for Alpine Ascents International – one of the premier guide services in the Pacific Northwest. He has been guiding for fifteen years, and his job has taken him all over the world – including six recent back-to-back trips up Africa’s tallest peak, Kilimanjaro.



Murphy started out studying sculpture and ceramics in college. From there, he went on to working on construction before setting his sites on mountain guiding and winemaking. His interest in winemaking came from a housemate who had studied brewing and enology at UC Davis. His friend would go on to work at several top-flight Napa wineries, including Chateau Montelena and Barnett Vineyards. Murphy learned what he could from his friend along the way, starting out initially making beer and then wine.



In 2007 he teamed up with two partners, David Ott and Diane Kaufman, to start Ott & Murphy (Note: the branding can be a bit confusing here as the LLC is Swede Hill Cellars). David Ott also serves as winemaker and Diane as ‘cellar rat.’



Ott & Murphy makes Rhone wines a large part of its focus. “Those are my favorite wines in the world,” Murphy says. The winery makes a Syrah, Viognier, and several southern Rhone blends. Ott & Murphy also makes a Bordeaux-style blend and a Tempranillo.



The winery uses diverse vineyard sources for such a small operation, including Elephant Mountain, Sugar Loaf, Boushey, Ambassador (Red Mountain), Spice Cabinet (Horse Heaven Hills), Destiny Ridge, Coyote Canyon, Crawford, and Vineheart. “I’ve played around a lot,” Murphy says. “I like the artistry side.”



All of the Ott & Murphy wines are made in lots of 200 cases or less. For the wines, Murphy has focused on limited use of new oak without a significant amount of racking.



The winery’s inaugural vintage was released in 2009, and David Ott and Diane Kauffman recently opened a tasting room, which they operate, on Whidbey Island. The tasting room, in downtown Langley, boasts picture windows overlooking the historic waterfront and music on Saturday nights, making for a perfect island getaway. Or perhaps a launching pad for a nearby climbing expedition in the North Cascades?



Ott & Murphy produces 1,000-1,200 cases annually.



Ott & Murphy Viognier Columbia Valley 2009 $20

Rating: + (Good) Aromas of creamsicle, peach, lemon zest, and honeysuckle. The palate is full and broad with a textured feel. Alcohol and oak show through at times. 76% Viognier, 18% Roussanne, and 6% Chardonnay. Elephant Mountain, Vineheart, Coyote Canyon, and Crawford vineyards. Aged in neutral French oak. 14.9% alcohol. 110 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Ott & Murphy Double Bluff Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $19

Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Abundant raspberries, blueberries, spice, and light game notes on an appealing wine. Palate is well put together with rich, syrupy blueberry flavors and a slightly sweet finish. 46% Grenache, 44% Syrah, 7% Viognier, and 3% Cinsault. Spice Cabinet, Vineheart, Sugarloaf, and Coyote Canyon vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (20% new). 15.4% alcohol. 140 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Ott & Murphy OMpendium Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $26

Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Aromas of bacon fat, berries, and peppery spice on an appealing wine. The palate is soft and fruit-filled. Wood shows through a bit at times. 38% Cinsault, 37% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre, 3% Viognier. Coyote Canyon and Vineheart vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (20% new). 14.8% alcohol. 108 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Ott & Murphy L’Entente Red Wine Horse Heaven Hills 2007 $34

Rating: + (Good) Aromas of white pepper, high-toned floral notes, berries, and wood spice. The palate has plush dark fruit flavors and grainy tannins. 65% Syrah, 25% Mourvedre, and 10% Viognier. Destiny Ridge and Crawford vineyards. 15.1% alcohol. 50 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Ott & Murphy Mystique Red Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $27

Rating: + (Good) Aromas of plum, herbal notes, candied fruit, red currant, and wood spice. Palate has plump blue and red fruit flavors. 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Malbec, 18% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot. Inland Desert, Destiny Ridge, Crawford, Vineheart, and Elephant Mountain vineyards. Aged in French (20% new) and American oak (5% of total, second fill). 14.2% alcohol. 131 cases produced.



Ott & Murphy Tempranillo Columbia Valley 2008 $16

Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Aromas of dusky spices, pencil eraser, and red fruit. Palate is well put together with red fruit flavors and grainy tannins. 79% Tempranillo, 11% Grenache, 5% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre. Crawford, Spice Cabinet, Sugarloaf, and Elephant Mountain vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (25% new). 14.2% alcohol. 137 cases produced.

Today’s Fresh Sheet – new and recent Washington wine releases – includes wines from Heaven’s Cave, Sweet Valley Wines, Lodmell Cellars, and Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard & Winery.





Heaven’s Cave



Heaven’s Cave was founded in 2005 by Hope Moore. The winery was formed to create awareness and raise funds for the Make The Dash Count Foundation (MTDC). 100% of the winery's profits go to the foundation.



MTDC’s mission is “to educate and inspire high-school-aged youth to become tomorrow’s philanthropic leaders through community engagement and hands-on grantmaking.” Moore says that the program’s youth do all of the “heavy lifting,” from soliciting grant proposals to evaluating where funding should be allocated. “Giving them the responsibility for stewarding the money is what makes the philanthropy real and the decision making hard,” Moore says.



The ‘dash’ in MTDC refers to the line on a gravestone between the date someone is born and the date they die. Moore writes, “I believe that the power to make a difference exists in all of us. Regardless of where you are in your life’s journey, I encourage you to reflect on how you’re making the DASH count.”



Heaven's Cave focuses its fruit sources on Destiny Ridge and Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills - the Heaven in Heaven's Cave. The winery is constructing a Tuscan-inspired facility on Destiny Ridge complete with an underground cave.



Heaven's Cave produces 800 to 1,000 cases annually.



Heaven’s Cave Yiayia White Wine Destiny Ridge Estate Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2009 $24

Rating: . (Decent) Aromas of Pledge, white peaches, and marzipan. Palate is off-dry with a viscous feel. 60% Pinot Gris, 20% Marsanne, and 20% Roussanne. Barrel fermented in neutral French oak and aged sur lie. 13.8% alcohol. 2.6 g/100ml Residual Sugar. 74 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Heaven’s Cave Destination Merlot Destiny Ridge Estate Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $32

Rating: . (Decent) Light in color. Aromas of char, toast, light herbal notes, and a touch of red currant. Palate has light bodied fruit with a healthy grip of tannins. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. Aged 18 months in French oak. 14.1% alcohol. 46 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Heaven’s Cave The Graduate Cabernet Franc Destiny Ridge Estate Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $36

Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) A moderately aromatic wine with cherry cough syrup, tea leaves, and light herbal notes. Palate has light bodied fruit with a firm tannic grip. 100% Cabernet Franc. Aged 24 months in French oak (75% new). 13.8% alcohol. 48 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Heaven’s Cave Amethyst Malbec Destiny Ridge Estate Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $36

Rating: + (Good) Aromas of cough syrup, cherry and licorice. Palate is full of cherry flavors with grainy tannins. 100% Malbec. Aged 18 months in French oak (75% new). 14.1% alcohol. 56 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Heaven’s Cave The Dweller Syrah Destiny Ridge Estate Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $28

Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Aromas of char, toast, ash, and spice. Palate has abundant black fruit flavors and grippy tannins. 100% Syrah. Aged 18 months in once used French oak. 14.3% alcohol. 108 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Heaven's Cave Icicles Riesling Ice Wines Destiny Ridge Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2007 $39 (375ml)

Rating: + (Good) Medium gold. An aromatic wine with orange marmalade, floral notes, honey, and burnt brown sugar. Thick and rich on the palate with sugared orange flavors. 100% Riesling. 15.4 g/100ml Residual Sugar. 112 cases produced.





Sweet Valley Wines



Like many winemakers, Josh McDaniels of Sweet Valley Wines got his start by volunteering at local wineries. Unlike many, however, McDaniels was only 15 years old. Several years later McDaniels went to his father and gave him an envelope with $1,000 saying he wanted to start a winery. Sweet Valley Wines was bonded in 2007, with the winery bottling their first wine during McDaniel’s senior year of high school.



McDaniels subsequently enrolled in the Center for Enology and Viticulture at Walla Walla Community College from which he would later graduate. In 2010 he spent at internship with Paul Hobbs Wines at Vina Cobos Winery in Mendoza, Argentina.



Sweet Valley has two labels – Sweet Valley and Righteous wines. Sweet Valley focuses on fruit from the Walla Walla Valley, while the Righteous Wines uses fruit from throughout Washington State.



The Righteous label reads: “‘Righteous’ – from Sweet Valley Wines is the kind of wine that could have been found in the goblets of the Last Supper or the glasses of surfer dudes around a beach side bonfire. It’s about taste, it’s about memories, it’s about a life full of friends and smiles.”



In addition to his work at Sweet Valley, McDaniels is an assistant at FIGGINS and manages a five-acre vineyard in Walla Walla. The Figgins family was instrumental in helping McDaniels overcome the numerous obstacles to becoming a winemaker while below the legal drinking age.



Sweet Valley and Righteous produce 2,000 cases annually. Note: McDaniels is also the winemaker for Monesia’s Song. Read about this winery here.



Sweet Valley Wines Righteous Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $16

Rating: + (Good) Aromas of mint, dark cherries, abundant herbal notes, and poblano pepper. The palate is tart and full of cherry and herbal flavors with the alcohol and oak pulled back. 79% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Syrah. Forgotten Hills, Minnick, and Coyote Canyon vineyards. Aged 22 months in neutral French and American oak. 13.6% alcohol. 725 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Sweet Valley Wines Righteous Malbec Walla Walla Valley 2009 $28

Rating: + (Good) Fairly aromatically quiet with aromas of plum, green notes, and peppery spice. Palate is full of tart fruit flavors that linger on the finish. Occasionally comes off as a bit sour. 92% Malbec and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Les Collines and Golden Ridge vineyards. Aged 18 months in French and Hungarian oak (50% new). 14.3% alcohol. 58 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Sweet Valley Wines Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2008 $30

Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Shows abundant herbal notes and sweet spices along with red licorice and red cherries. Palate shows concentrated fruit flavors. 94% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot. Pepper Bridge, Birch Creek, Golden Ridge, Les Collines, and Seven Hills vineyards. Aged 28 months in French and American oak (40% new). 14.3% alcohol. 67 cases produced.



Sweet Valley Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2008 $35

Rating: + (Good) Strongly herbal along with cola, chocolate, and high-toned cherries. Palate is tight and tannic with abundant chocolate and cherry flavors. 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. Golden Ridge, Birch Creek, Minnick, Les Collines, and Seven Hills vineyards. Aged 28 months in French oak (70% new). 14.5% alcohol. 109 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.





Lodmell Cellars



Lodmell Cellars is a sibling-owned winery located in Walla Walla. Andrew Lodmell serves as winemaker with his sister Kristie in charge of sales and marketing.



The Lodmells are fourth-generation farmers. After graduating from Whitman College with a degree in environmental sciences, Andrew Lodmell began managing the family farm. In 1993 he planted Lodmell Vineyards near the lower Snake River. The winery was founded in 2005 in part to showcase the vineyard’s fruit, with Andrew Lodmell serving as winemaker.



Lodmell Cellars produces 800 cases annually, with most of this focused on Merlot. The 2006 Merlot vintage was skipped due to a brief hailstorm that devastated the vineyard.



Read a previous post on the winery here.



Lodmell Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley 2009 $18

Rating: + (Good) A slight greenish tinge. A lightly aromatic wine with lime zest, green apple, and light oak spices. Crisp and tart on the palate with abundant green apple flavors. Alcohol gets a little heavy at times but the acid pulls it back together. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Spring Creek Vineyards. Aged 12 months in neutral French oak. 15.0% alcohol. 115 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Lodmell Cellars Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2007 $NA

Rating: . (Decent) Pale lemon yellow. An unusual aroma profile with funky, leesy notes mixed with apple and wood spice. The palate brings abundant green apple and lime flavors accented by wood spice and austere acidity. 100% Chardonnay. Spring Creek Vineyards. Aged 24 months in French Acacia wood. 50 cases produced. Note: Wine club release. Sample provided by winery.



Lodmell Cellars Saignee Estate Rose Columbia Valley 2009 $18

Rating: . (Decent) Pale strawberry colored with a slight browning at the rim. An aromatic wine with strawberry rhubarb, cherry, and grapefruit. Weighted on the palate with abundant strawberry and spice flavors. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Lodmell Vineyards. Aged 13 months in neutral French oak. 110 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Lodmell Cellars Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $33

Rating: . (Decent) Dark in color. Aromas of red currant, strawberries, crushed nuts, green notes, and high-toned oak. The palate is tart and tangy with cherry fruit with a slightly sweet finish. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Lodmell Vineyards. Aged 36 months in French oak (20% new). 15.4% alcohol. 495 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Lodmell Cellars Bend Sinister Late Harvest Merlot Columbia Valley 2008 $30

Rating: + (Good) A Port-style wine with abundant spice aromas along with dried cranberries, raisins, balsamic, and brown sugar. The palate is rich and full of sugar and fruit flavors. 100% Merlot. Lodmell Vineyards. 83 g/L sugar. 100 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.





Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard & Winery



Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard & Winery was founded by the Monson family in 1999. The family owns a staggering 1,400 acres on Goose Ridge, a fold of land located adjacent to Red Mountain. All of the wines across the family’s three labels – Goose Ridge, Sol Duc, and Stonecap – come from this vineyard.



Of note, winemaker Kendall Mix joined Goose Ridge in April of 2010. Mix brings over 20 years of winemaking experience to the winery, most recently at Corliss Estates.



Goose Ridge has two tasting rooms, one located in Richland and one located in Woodinville in the Schoolhouse district.



Goose Ridge Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $18

Rating: + (Good) Pale lemon yellow. Aromas of tropical fruit, spice and melon. Textured on the palate with abundant tropical fruit flavors. An enjoyable wine that is not shy on the oak. 100% Chardonnay. Fermented and aged in French and European oak. 14.5% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.



Goose Ridge g3 Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $18

Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Aromatically quiet with aromas of black cherry, brambly fruit, roasted coffee bean, and spice. Palate is tart with concentrated fruit but is a bit rough around the edges with somewhat astringent tannins. 41% Syrah, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot. 14.1% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.



Goose Ridge Vireo Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $30

Rating: + (Good) Abundant saline aromas along with dark fruit and vanilla. Palate is full of plump cherry flavors and lingering herbal notes. 38% Syrah, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 24% Merlot. 14.6% alcohol. 409 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.



Sol Duc Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard Meritage Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $50

Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Aromas of sweet oak spices – particularly vanilla - are at the fore followed by dark fruit and herbal notes. The palate is concentrated with dark fruit flavors that glide along to a lingering finish. A very enjoyable wine, although the oak occasionally steals the show. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 9% Malbec, and 4% Petit Verdot. 14.6% alcohol. 195 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from July 22nd to 31st. Read previous round-ups here.



From around the country…



South Carolina Now.com writes about Washington wine with callouts to Charles Smith, Cougar Crest, and anything from Seven Hills Vineyard.



Writing for Wine Enthusiast, Paul Gregutt writes about Washington redefining cult wines.



The Chicago Tribune gives a shoutout to Barnard Griffin’s Cabernet.



Reuters writes about Walla Walla being named the friendlist town.



D Magazine writes about Northstar Winery.





From the blogosphere…



The Winery Web Site Report writes about why most winery websites stink.



Seattlest writes about cult wines.



Northwest Wine Anthem writes about Fidelitas. They also write about Cor Cellars.



Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about Myles Anderson being inducted into the Washington Wine Hall of Fame. They also do a video post on the Winemaker Olympics, and write about Doug McCrea’s Salida.



The Blue Collar Wine Guy writes about terroir.



Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Juliette’s Dazzle.



Lucha Vino compares a Washington southern Rhone-style blend to a Chateauneuf du Pape.



Sip of Spokane writes about Arbor Crest.



Woodinville Wine Update writes about DeLille’s new and improved Carriage House.



Wine Peeps writes about Cedergreen Cellars. They also write about Kerry Shiels from Cote Bonneville.





From the locals…



The Puget Sound Business journal writes about the new Costco initiative to privatize state liquor stores. They also write about Canlis being named to Wine Spectator’s top restaurant list.



The News Tribune writes about farmers markets offering alcohol samples. They also write about the Tri-Cities wine center.



Wine Press NW writes about prices for Washington wine month.



Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about Oregon riesling. He also writes about Oregon Pinot Noir.



The Columbian writes about wine and beer tastings at farmers markets.



Writing for the Spokesman Review, Paul Gregutt writes about moscato.



CBS Seattle writes about wine and beer tastings at farmers markets.



KOMO News writes about a weekend away in Walla Walla.



The Bellingham Herald writes about Nefarious and Mellosoni.



Oregon Live! writes about Maryhill.



Penninsula Daily News writes about a new Sequim winery.



The Seattle Weekly writes about the Auction of Washington Wines.





That's all folks!

As long time readers know, I will (very) occasionally recommend an upcoming Washington wine event of particular significance. One such event this month is the Auction of Washington Wines, which takes place August 18^th through 20^th.

The Auction was first created in 1988 as a partnership between the Washington Wine Commission and the Enological Society of the Pacific Northwest (now called the Seattle Wine Society). It has evolved over the years into its own 501(c)(3) organization. The goal remains both to promote the local wine industry and to give back to the community.

The three-day event starts with the Picnic & Barrel Auction on August 18^th on the lawn at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Over 70 wineries will be represented, with numerous winemakers walking Ste. Michelle’s stunning grounds pouring their wines. For the Barrel Auction, 25 wineries will be auctioning off cases of to-be-released wines to the five highest bidders. Attendees will be able to taste the barrel samples during the event.

Friday features a series of winemaker dinners, with a who’s who list of participating wineries including Andrew Will, DeLille, Doubleback, Leonetti Cellar, Quilceda Creek, and Woodward Canyon.

Finally, Saturday brings the Covey Run – a 5k or 10k run/walk – followed by the Wine Gala. The Wine Gala features several significant changes this year. A winemaker will now be at every table, and the event will no longer be black tie. Sherri Swingle, who assumed the position of Executive Director in January, says, “We wanted to breathe a little newness by taking away the black tie. It’s a very simple but significant change.”

The Gala features a six-course meal and more than 25 one-of-a-kind auction items (a weeklong cruise around the world with Betz Family Winery anyone?).

Proceeds from the Auction benefit both uncompensated care at Seattle Children’s Hospital and the Washington Wine Education Foundation. Since its inception, the event has raised more than $24 million, including $1.4M last year.

Read more about the Auction of Washington Wines as well as ticket information for each of the events here.

The Tasting Note Database has been updated through July 31st. See the database (a Google doc) here. Read an explanation of the fields here. Enjoy!

As exciting as any winemaker to enter onto the stage in Washington in the last few years is Jon Martinez at Maison Bleue. Martinez left behind a promising career in dental surgery to pursue his passion for winemaking (read a previous post on the winery here). We should all be thankful.

Across the Maison Bleue lineup, the focus is on vineyard-designated wines. Martinez explains by saying, “I’m all about terroir, and I express it through vineyard designates.”

Earlier this year I reviewed Maison Bleue’s outstanding 2009 red wine releases from Upland Vineyard. Here we take a look at the winery’s 2009 reds from acclaimed Boushey Vineyard, as well as two new white wine releases from the 2010 vintage (read a review on Maison Bleue’s excellent 2010 French Creek Vineyard Chardonnay here).

The first of the 2010 whites, the Notre Vie Viognier, comes from Arthur Den Hoed’s vineyard in the Yakima Valley (K Vintner’s uses the same source). Viognier can be a finicky grape to work with, often coming off as flabby, alcoholic, and oily if it gets overripe. The Maison Bleue Viognier is far (far) to the left of that, carried along by the vibrant acidity that is the hallmark of the 2010 vintage.

Of the 2010 vintage Martinez says, “It was difficult in the vineyard and a lot of work in the cellar but was the most rewarding vintage for me.”

For an example of the vintage’s rewards look no further than the 2010 Petite Joie Marsanne from Boushey Vineyard. This wine pairs compelling flavors of honeydew melon and marzipan with a textured mouthfeel that sails off into the distance on the finish. The 2010 Petit Joie is nothing short of an accomplishment – the best Washington white wine that I have had this year and one of the best wines overall.

The first of the two 2009 Boushey Vineyard reds is the Le Midi Grenache. This wine, which includes 20% Syrah, provides a fascinating counterpoint to the winery’s La Montagnette Grenache from Upland Vineyard reviewed here. Both are as good as any Grenache being produced in the state and display the winery’s hallmark freshness, purity, and intensity.

The final new release – yet another exclamation point for Washington Syrah – is the 2009 Liberte. This wine is full of mineral and pomegranate flavors that coat the palate and shimmer with intensity – an emphatic expression of Boushey fruit. Expect this wine to age gracefully for as long as you’re willing to hold it.

Taken together with the releases earlier this year, Maison Bleue is making a lineup of white and red wines as compelling as any to be found in Washington. Quite simply, these are the types of wines one dreams about.

Maison Bleue Notre Vie Viognier Arthur’s Vineyard Yakima Valley 2010 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Far from a fruit bomb aromatically, this wine has fascinating, alluring aromas of floral notes, creamsicle, and spice. On the palate it is tart but with a weighted feel full of minerality and with a steely acidic spine. A beautiful wine that is completely unique for Washington. Enjoy with food to bring out its best. 100% Viognier. Fermented and aged in two to three year old French oak barrels and stainless steel (30%) sur lie for 9 months. 50% malolactic fermentation. 13.5% alcohol. 305 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Maison Bleue Petite Joie Marsanne Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley 2010 $35
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Intoxicating, compellingly complex aromas of honeydew melon, marzipan, crushed almonds, and spice. Hard to get past the nose and take the first sip. The palate is textured with incredible body and weight with lemony acidity and an exceptionally long finish. Nothing short of an accomplishment of a wine that is the best Marsanne I have had from Washington by a long stretch. 100% Marsanne. Whole cluster pressed and fermented and aged in French oak (30% new). Aged sur lie for 9 months. 100% malolactic fermentation. 13.9% alcohol. 143 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Maison Bleue Le Midi Grenache Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley 2009 $35
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Compellingly fresh, perfumed aromas of raspberry, milk chocolate, spice, mineral, and wild blueberries on an aromatically complex wine. Tart and textured with great depth and body, game notes, and fine grained tannins. The flavors are incredibly pure with the oak far, far in the background. This wine will only improve with some additional bottle age and promises to have an extremely long life in front of it. As with the La Montagnette, among a small handful of the state’s best Grenache. 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah. Aged in 3 to 4 year old French oak for 10 months. 14.5% alcohol. 126 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Maison Bleue Liberte Syrah Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley 2009 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An incredibly complex wine with mineral notes, high toned violets, pomegranate, dark fruit, and what I can only describe as a savage feel. Completely coats the palate from end to end with pure, rich, intense fruit flavors. A beautifully structured, pure wine with restrained oak and a seemingly endless finish. Though drinking well now, this wine will age gracefully for decades. 100% Syrah. Aged in French oak (20% new) for 10 months. 14.7% alcohol. 196 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.