Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report Note: Site has moved to www.northwestwinereport.com

Well folks, 2011 is more than half over and it’s time to take a look back at how the Corked Counter fared over the first six months of the year.

To recap, at the beginning of the year I began counting the number of corked wines I came across relative to the number of wines I sampled. In terms of counting bottles, I only counted those that I had personally checked, excluding those that had been checked by someone else first or that used some type of alternative closure (screwcap, glass stopper, plastic cork).

From January 1^st through June 30^th I sampled 835 wines that used a cork closure. 26 of these wines were corked. This equates to a rate of about 3%, a percentage that has been remarkably stable across the year (Note that I have had an additional 4 corked bottles in July bringing the total for the year up to 30 which is listed along the side of the blog).

For those interested, the number of wines that used some type of alternative closure was 61 – approximately 7% of those sampled (total n=896). The vast majority of these closures were screwcaps.

I have listed below the price points for the corked wines and the type of wine, red or white. Note that these wines spanned across a range of price points. While more expensive bottles often use more expensive cork – and may therefore less likely to be contaminated by TCA – expensive wines are by no means immune.

I’m not sure at this point if I will continue this project across the second half of the year or not. The rate of corked bottles has been consistent all year and, at this point, the sample size is large enough to make me feel confident that the rate of corked bottles I am seeing is 3%. Not to mention keeping track of every bottle is somewhat of a pain in the neck!

Let me know if you have questions or comments.

Price	Type
$60	Red
$55	Red
$50	Red
$50	Red
$39	Red
$38	Red
$38	Red
$35	Red
$30	Red
$30	Red
$25	Red
$22	Red
$20	Red
$19	Red
$18	Red
$15	Red
$8	Red
$35	White
$22	White
$20	White
$18	White
$18	White
$15	White
$12	White
$11	White
$8	White

REMINDER: July's Virtual Tasting is TONIGHT from 7-8pm Pacific. Read about how to participate here.







In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

Columbia Crest is Washington’s value standard bearer. With its H3 label, the winery focuses on vineyard sources in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. This is the third vintage of the winery’s H3 Les Chevaux Red Wine. Meaning ‘the horses’ in French, this wine is a Bordeaux-style blend with a big dollop of Syrah. This wine is not shy on the oak but brings a lot of bang for the buck. The winery’s H3 Chardonnay also explores an oak-driven style, with three quarters of the juice fermented and aged in oak and the rest in stainless steel.

Swinging the oak pendulum to the other side is the Snoqualmie 2009 Naked Chardonnay. This wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel, with the grapes also coming from the Horse Heaven Hills. Meanwhile, Snoqualmie’s 2009 Winemaker’s Select Riesling is made in a fairly sweet style. The wine contains a splash of Viognier and Muscat Alexandria, giving it a great deal of aromatic lift.

The final wine this month comes from The Magnificent Wine Company. Charles Smith started this winery with the now omnipresent House Wine before handing the reins to Precept Wines. The Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% varietal with limited oak influence.

See previous Five Under $15s here.

Columbia Crest H3 Les Chevaux Red Wine Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $15
Rating: + (Good) Abundant coconut, vanilla, mocha, eucalyptus, spice, and dark fruit. Palate brings abundant oak flavors wrapped around dark fruit with a sweet finish. 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34%Merlot, 18% Syrah, 10% Malbec, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Aged 18 months in French and American oak (33% new). 14.5% alcohol.

Columbia Crest H3 Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills 2009 $15
Rating: + (Good) Abundant toast, butter, and spice notes. Oak flavors are at the fore on the palate along with tropical fruit. Lingers on the finish. Those enjoying a lot of oak on their Chardonnay will find much to enjoy. 100% Chardonnay. 75% barrel fermented and aged 9 months in French and American oak (38% new) and 25% in stainless steel. 13.5% alcohol.

Snoqualmie Naked Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $13
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Very lightly aromatic with apple, pear, and straw notes. Full and rounded with citrus flavors that draw out across the palate. 100% Chardonnay. Residual sugar 0.65 g/100 ml.

Snoqualmie Winemaker’s Select Riesling Columbia Valley 2009 $8
Rating: . /+ (Decent/Good) Light diesel notes along with lemon zest, floral notes, and honey on an aromatically appealing wine. The palate is full, fleshy, and medium-plus sweet. 90% Riesling, 5% Muscat Alexandria, and 5% Viognier. 10.5% alcohol. 6g/100ml Residual Sugar.

The Magnificent Wine Co. Steak House Columbia Valley 2009 $13
Rating: . (Decent) Aromas of vanilla, peppercorn, red fruit, and spice. Light bodied with grainy tannins and full of pink peppercorn flavors. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13.5% alcohol.

REMINDER: July's Virtual Tasting is this Thursday from 7-8pm Pacific. Read about how to participate here.

Today just a few pictures from eastern Washington where it was sunny and 80 degrees yesterday - hot by western Washington standards but somewhat cool for the eastern part of the state this time of year. Click on the pictures for higher resolution images.

The first picture is looking at Red Mountain from Klipsun Vineyard. Note the Grand Rêve Vineyard crawling up the mountain side (read about Grand Rêve here).

The next picture is of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from Klipsun's original 1982 plantings. Talking with folks at the vineyard things are about two weeks behind 'normal' - average or better compared to vineyards across the state.

The next picture is looking out from Anna Marie Vineyard in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley - what I like to refer to as the 'occupied area.'

The final picture is of Merlot grapes from Anna Marie. Check out Northstar Winery's stunning 2007 Walla Walla Valley Merlot for a taste of the final product from this vineyard (read a review of this wine here).

Remember wetsiders, sunny days are never more than a short drive away!

July's Virtual Tasting is this Thursday from 7-8pm Pacific. Read about how to participate here.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from July 15^th to 21^st. See previous round-ups here.


From around the world…

The Montreal Gazette writes about wine pairing with barbequed steak with a callout to Chateau Ste. Michelle.


From around the country…

St. Louis Today writes about Pinot Gris with a callout to Chateau Ste. Michelle.

The Sun Herald writes about flashy labels with a callout to to the 14 Hands Hot to Trot.

The Chicago Tribune writes about good, inexpensive wines that are easy to find with a callout to Pacific Rim and Snoqualmie.

The Cannon Beach Gazette writes about wine recollections with a callout to Abeja’s Chardonnay.

The Muncie Star Press writes about rose with a callout to Charles and Charles.

Shanken News Daily writes about a surge in sales at St. Michelle.


From the blogosphere…

Woodinville Patch.com writes about Walla Walla wineries opening tasting rooms in Woodinville.

Northwest Wine Anthem names Tranche Cellars Pink Pape its Friday pick.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about L’Ecole No 41’s 2010 Chenin Blanc.

Schiller Wine writes about visiting Long Shadows.

AgInfo.net gives part two on a new Wenatchee Valley Visitors Bureau tasting area. Read part one here.

Crosscut.com writes about the proposed Naches Heights AVA.

Northwest Wine Anthem writes about Tranche Cellars 2010 Pink Pape (a personal favorite).

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about the 2010 L’Ecole No 41 Chenin Blanc (also a personal favorite).

Wine Peeps writes about Washington rose. They also write about Corliss Estates and Tranche Cellars.

Table Talk writes about box wine.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about the Iron Vintner Challenge.

Lucha Vino compares a Washington and French Syrah.

Wine & Dine Walla Walla writes about tourists visiting the valley for events.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about the 2006 L’Ecole No 41 Syrah.

Write for Wine writes about Cabernet Franc.


From the locals…

The Yakima Herald writes about the effects of the November freeze.

The Kipsap Sun writes about food pairings from Semillon and Riesling.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about vintage ratings.

The Tri-City Herald writes about Myles Anderson being inducted into the Washington Wine Hall of Fame. They also write about Joshua Maloney taking the Director of Winemaking position at Milbrandt Vineyards and little known wines from Chateau Ste. Michelle.

NWCN writes about Walla Walla being ranked as the friendliest town in the country.

Seattlest writes about the Auction of Washington Wine.

The News Tribune writes about WSU’s Tri-Cities wine center.

The Seattle Weekly writes about potential impacts on cuts in the state’s budget on wine tourism. They also write that confusion reigns at wine tastings.

Wenatchee World On-line writes about the Visitors Bureau tasting room.

The Seattle Times writes about Costco’s revamped liquor initiative.


That's all folks!

There has been a lot of talk in the last couple years about the importance of Social Media, and it is important. However, for wineries, having a website that is attractive and provides useful information to consumers is equally important if not more critical than Social Media. Unfortunately, 90 to 95% of winery websites stink.

Before I go into why so many of the sites I see are so terrible, let me first make the argument for why I believe it is important for wineries to have a good website. If you work in a winery, think about the ways that people interact with your brand. Generally people either 1) see your bottle on the shelf 2) hear about your winery through a review, Social Media, etc or 3) try your wines at the tasting room, event, or through some other channel. Unfortunately in two of those three cases, the next step many consumers will take is to go to your website.

Let’s say a person sees a bottle of your wine on the shelf and knows nothing about the winery. Where are they likely to go for information? Better yet let’s say that a person decides to buy a bottle of your wine either on a whim or on a recommendation and, lo and behold! They like it! Again, what is a logical next step? Or let’s say someone has been hearing a lot of buzz about your winery. Perhaps they have heard people talking about the winery or perhaps they have heard you talking about the winery on Twitter or Facebook. Again, where are they likely to go? To your website to try to find out more information about the winery and see what other wines you make. And this is where the vast majority of the time things get ugly.

90-95% of winery websites stink because they say little about the winery and even less about the wines. They provide largely generic information rather than specific information about who you are and what differentiates your winery. Here is example of what I often read. I apologize in advance if this reads verbatim from someone’s site. It was not intentional I assure you.

“(insert your winery name here) is a small family winery. We are dedicated to producing super premium wine from Washington’s finest vineyards. We believe that wine is made in the vineyard and strive to express each of our sites in our wines.”

Ugh.

Why is this so bad? “We are a small family winery…” All right. You’ve told me you’re not a mega-corporation, but why should I care? Many of these sites subsequently go on to say nothing about the family or the people involved. Some don’t even give their names! The site might as well says, “We are a small family winery but please respect our privacy. We do not like to give out information about ourselves.”

“We are dedicated to producing super premium wine from Washington’s finest vineyards.” First, almost no one knows what super premium means. Second, you’re in luck! Everyone else is looking to make plonk from vineyards that are producing 20 tons an acre! Again, some sites talk up their vineyards and then don’t say what these vineyards are or why they are special.

“We believe that wine is made in the vineyard…” Yada yada yada. I wait for the day I read, “We strive to make Frankenwines that are created in the winery and have nothing to do with the place that they came from.”

Don’t get me wrong. Each of these ideas is important. However, to throw them out there without providing further information to make them relevant to the reader is completely worthless. Worse, it just sounds like everyone else which is exactly what you don’t want to do.

All right, so we’ve gotten past the gobbledygook on your website and for some reason we are still with you. We’ve decided to move on to looking at the wines themselves. Here things are going to get even worse.

The vast (vast) majority of winery websites are not up-to-date. Here’s brief series of examples from the past week:

- Go to winery website looking for a bottleshot. None to be found/picture is of low resolution.
- Go to winery website looking for prices on current releases. Current vintages not listed and/or prices not listed.
- Go to winery website looking for prices on current releases. Links to external site that does not work.
- Go to winery website. Click on ‘Enter’ and goes to dead link.
- Go to winery website looking for information and it says 'Under construction.' It's said this for years by the way.
- Go to winery website looking for contact information. None found.
- Go to winery website looking for blend and technical information. None found.

Some of these issues may be less important to most consumers than they are to me, but most of them are not. You want to hear the worst part? Many of the sites that had these issues were considerably better than most of what I come across. These are the guys who are doing well!

Again, all the talk these days is about Social Media and with good reason. Social Media can be an important tool. However, part of its strength is wasted if you engage with people and then they disengage because your website either a) says much of nothing or b) looks like the winery went out of business several years ago and no one turned the lights off because the information/look and feel is so out of date.

Want to do a better job? Make your website say something about you and your winery, not generic boilerplate information. Talk about what makes you unique from the other 700 wineries in the state. Talk about why you started the winery in the first place. And for goodness sake, keep the information up to date!

Below is Part I of a report from the Walla Walla Valley including wines from Rasa Vineyards, Mackey Vineyards, Fjellene Cellars, Sleight of Hand Cellars, and àMaurice Cellars. Read a .pdf version of this report here.

Rasa Vineyards

Rasa Vineyards continues to cut a path as one of the most impressive new wineries to emerge in Washington in the last several years. There is no let up with the wineries latest wines. In fact, the current releases are as good or better than any that the winery has produced.

Brothers Billo and Pinto Naravane have made several additions to the lineup in the last year. The first is adding a label called PB (for their first initials). These are not declassified Rasa wines but rather high quality juice that didn’t fit into the Rasa program. These wines offer extraordinary value for their price point.

For the 2010 vintage, which featured cooler temperatures and higher acidity, the Naravanes made a Riesling in more of an Auslese style than their thrilling 2009 The Composer Riesling. The resulting wine, named The Lyricist, has considerably more sugar but is beautifully balanced with acidity. The result is, once again, as good of a Riesling as is being produced in Washington State.

The Naravanes have also added a stunning new Bordeaux-style blend from DuBrul Vineyard (see barrel sample notes on this wine here). Billo Naravane first met Cote Bonneville winemaker Kerry Shiels at UC Davis. Naravane later met with Kerry’s father, DuBrul Vineyard owner Hugh Shiels. “An hour meeting turned into a seven hour thing,” Naravane says. At the time, Naravane did not yet know just how coveted DuBrul fruit was. “Hugh just laughed when I asked him about fruit,” Naravane says. He later received a call offering a small parcel and accepted without even asking the price.

The resulting wine, Creative Impulse, is named after the brothers’ creative urges, urges that were always contained by their parents growing up. The Naravane’s creative skills are on full display on this wine, which rivals the best Bordeaux-style blends coming out of Washington.

Note that Rasa Vineyards is now located in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley in the facility formerly occupied by Hence Cellars.

PB Syrah Yakima Valley 2008 $29
Rating: * (Excellent) Extremely dark in color. Aromas of earth, black pepper, game, dark berries, and licorice. Deep, rich, tart, flavorful fruit with a hyper-extended finish. An extremely high QPR wine. 100% Syrah. Aged 21 months in French oak (25% new). 14.8% alcohol. 224 cases produced.

PB Syrah/Cabernet Kiona Vineyards Red Mountain 2008 $29
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Abundant aromas of licorice, soil, light herbal notes, and dark fruit. Big and bold on the palate with a firm backbone of tannins and rich fruit flavors. 67% Syrah, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 21 months in French oak (33% new). 14.8% alcohol. 187 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards Vox Populi Mourvedre Columbia Valley 2009 $45
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark and brilliant in color with a purple tinge at the rim. Aromas of chalk, white pepper, light game, and earth. A rich, textured palate with winding fruit flavors and a persistent intensity on the finish. 100% Mourvedre. 52% Minick, 48% 48% Alder Ridge. Aged in French oak (22% new). 14.4% alcohol. 89 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards QED Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Almost completely opaque. Intoxicating aromas of black olive juice, penetrating dark berries, game, floral notes, and whiffs of dark chocolate. The palate is textured and seamlessly put together with pure berry flavors and silky tannins. Capped off by a seemingly endless finish. 83% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 5% Mourvedre, and 2% Viognier. Les Collines, Double River, and Minick vineyards. Aged in French oak (22% new). 14.4% alcohol. 675 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards Principia Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2008 $85
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color. Quite closed up at present but shows aromas of earth, game, and berries. The palate is lithe, seamless and elegant, filled with textured fruit flavors. An incredibly impressive wine with a long life ahead of it. Give 3-plus years. 100% Syrah. Les Collines, Seven Hills, Lewis, and Portteus vineyards. Aged 30 months in French oak (25% new). 14.2% alcohol. 115 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards Creative Impulse Red Wine Yakima Valley 2008 $95
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A compelling wine with earth, dark, dark cherry, chocolate, and herbal notes. On the palate a beautiful display of richness and power, structure and delicacy. An extremely long finish. Only continues to pick up steam after days of being open. 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot. Aged 30 months in French oak (60% new). 15.1% alcohol. 140 cases produced.

Rasa Vineyards The Lyricist Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $32
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An extremely aromatic wine with a fresh twist of lemon with honey, lime, green apple, and floral notes. On the sweet side of off-dry but with laser-like focus and beautifully balanced acidity. An extremely long, crisp, lingering finish. An exclamation point on Washington Riesling. 100% Riesling. Bacchus, Kilian, and Dionysus vineyards. 13.3% full botrytis, 16.9% partial botrytis. 4.89% Residual Sugar. 12.3% alcohol. 217 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards

Mackey Vineyards is a new Walla Walla winery founded by brothers Roger and Phillip Mackey. Like many who have been captivated by the Washington wine scene, the Mackey brothers, “traded their dress suits for a tractor and a plow.”

Roger Mackey writes, "I think there is nothing more special than saying here, try my wine. It's produced from my land." Mackey Vineyard is located in a canyon in the southeast section of the Walla Walla Valley by a fork in the Walla Walla River. The winery also owns Frenchtown Vineyard in Lowden, Washington. In addition to these two sites, Mackey also sources fruit from Les Collines, Yellowbird, Sagemoor, and DuBrul vineyards.

Mackey Vineyards has a tasting room located in downtown Walla Walla. The wines are made by Billo Naravane of Rasa Vineyards.

Mackey Vineyards Syrah Estate Walla Walla Valley 2008 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. An appealing wine with char, blackberry, light game notes, mineral, and black tea leaves. The palate is soft and lighter bodied in style with black olive and umami notes and chalky tannins. 100% Syrah. Mackey Vineyard. Aged 18 months in French oak (40% new). 13.9% alcohol. 125 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of cherry, herbal notes, pencil shavings, and dry chocolate. Dry and light bodied on the palate with elegant cherry flavors, soft tannins, and a chalky feel. Aged in French oak (70% new). 80.4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.7% Merlot, 4.9% Petit Verdot. Mackey Vineyard, Heather Hill, and Gamache vineyards. Aged 21 months in French oak (70% new). 14.5% alcohol. 148 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards Concordia Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Like running through a field of wild flowers and berries eating a bar of dark chocolate. A perfumed palate that is deft on its feet with a silky structure, full of berry flavors, game, and mineral notes. Lingers on the finish. 77.4% Syrah, 12.9% Grenache, and 9.7% Mourvedre. Les Collines, Bacchus, and Minick vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (35% new). 14.9% alcohol. 370 cases produced.

Mackey Vineyards Off-Dry Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with red apples, tropical fruit, honey, and floral notes. Off-dry in style with a fair amount of sugar but well balanced by mouthwatering acidity. A very well-priced bottle of wine for this level of quality. 100% Riesling. Bacchus and Kilian Vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.1% alcohol. 167 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars

Fjellene Cellars, pronounced fyel-LAY-nuh, is a new Walla Walla winery. The winery is named after a word for mountains in Norwegian. Owner and winemaker Matthew Erlandson says that the winery is, “Dedicated to those who find solace in a place which most will never experience.”

Erlandson was an outdoor educator and guide for thirteen years at NOLS and Outward Bound in the western United States, British Columbia, and Central and South America before deciding to turn his attention to winemaking. He was working a job at Northern Arizona University when he took a three-month absence to make wine in Washington. Hooked, he gave his notice, sold his house, and moved to Walla Walla. Erlandson made his first wines in 2007 and had his first release this spring. The 2007 through 2009 wines were made while he was an assistant at Balboa and Beresan, and Erlandson credits winemaker Tom Glase with mentoring him. Erlandson moved into the space previously occupied by Trust Cellars, which moved to the airport region, at the beginning of the year.

Erlandson puts a particular emphasis on vineyard sources, saying, “I want my Cabernet Franc to taste like Cabernet Franc from Waliser Vineyard.” Erlandson uses a variety of excellent sources, including Les Collines, Yellow Jacket, Waliser, Two Blondes, and Candy Mountain. With the exception of two blends, the Fjellene Cellars wines are otherwise single vineyard and single varietal, including a rare Walla Walla Valley-designated Sauvignon Blanc.

Stylistically Erlandson says, “I love low alcohol, high acid wines. I want to be simple with the wines and not over complicate things.” Indeed, Erlandson’s wines are unusual from most of what can be found in the valley, with less emphasis on oak and overly ripe fruit flavors. Rather these wines are more acid driven and best enjoyed with food. Fjellene Cellars, which Erlandson owns with his wife Sarah, puts a particular emphasis on sustainability. Pumice and stems are composted; lees are recycled; old barrels are turned into artwork. Erlandson writes, “Although we are not claiming to be sustainable at this time, we are making every effort to minimize our waste while renewing our resources to lessen our impact on the planet. We believe that sustainability is not something you achieve, but rather a mindset that requires time and long-term goals.”

In a nod to his love of the mountains, the Fjellene label is an image of a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. With his new winery Matt Erlandson provides further evidence to my hypothesis that climbers make good winemakers – and provides one of the year’s more intriguing new wineries. This will be one to keep an eye on.

Fjellene Cellars produced 600 cases in 2008 and 2009 and 1,000 cases in 2010.

Fjellene Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Walla Walla Valley 2010 $22
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of pear, melon, and touches of tropical fruit. Fresh and fruit-filled on the palate with abundant grapefruit flavors. 100% Les Collines Vineyard Block 2. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.0% alcohol. 125 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: + (Good) Light cherry red color. Abundant strawberry, cherry, and light bubble gum notes. Crisp and tart with bright acidity with just the suggestion of sugar (0.89 g/L). 100% Syrah. 12.5% alcohol. 100 cases produced. NB: The only reason I don’t list this wine as ‘Recommended’ is the price point is a bit high compared to its peers. However, this remains one of my favorite rosés of the year.

Fjellene Cellars Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2008 $28
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with baker’s chocolate, herbal notes, and whiffs of roasted nuts. The palate is restrained on the oak and alcohol with tart, winding fruit flavors. Aged 21 months in French oak (25% new). 100% Cabernet Franc. Waliser Vineyard. Aged 20 months in French oak (25% new). 14.1% alcohol. 48 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars The North Col Blend Columbia Valley 2007 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of dusty chocolate, herbal notes, and tea leaves. Tart on the palate with dried black cherries and crisp acidity. An enjoyable, stylistic wine meant to be consumed with food. Those looking for big fruit and lots of oak flavors should look elsewhere. 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc. Waliser Vineyard. Aged 20 months in French oak (50% new). 14.1% alcohol. 96 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars The South Col Blend Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Aromas of dry chocolate, herbal notes, and a touch of the Rocks funk. Tart and light bodied on the palate with a big ball of fruit in the middle. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 13% Cabernet Franc. Yellow Jacket, Waliser, and Candy Mountain vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak (25% new). 14.1% alcohol. 192 cases produced.

Fjellene Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2008 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Lightly aromatic with medicinal notes, baker’s chocolate, herbal notes, and cherry. The fruit is restrained and the oak far in the background with a real acid blast that stitches this wine together. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Pepper Bridge. Aged 20 months in French oak (30% new). 14.3% alcohol. 48 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars

Sleight of Hand Cellars is movin’ on up like George and Wheezy – both literally and figuratively. The winery recently moved into a new location in the southern part of Walla Walla next door to Saviah Cellars and Beresan. The facility, which has a LARGE Sleight of Hand Cellars sign on the outside, is 2,000 square feet with a barrel space big enough to accommodate 4,000 cases annually. The winery is also building a new facility next door where production will take place. There is even a guest house on the property for wine club members.

While the new facility is much larger than the winery’s downtown tasting room, which is now inhabited by Kerloo Cellars, the vibe is still the same. On the day I visited the winery the Beach Boys Pet Sounds was playing, on vinyl of course.

The juice from winemaker Trey Busch continues movin’ on up as well. Current releases include a dazzling Chardonnay from French Creek Vineyard (Maison Bleue also makes a vineyard designated Chardonnay from this vineyard which provides an interesting comparison and contrast) and a new release from the winery – the Funkadelic Syrah. This wine is from third leaf fruit from Richard Funk’s vineyard in the Rocks region of the Walla Walla Valley. This is a compelling example Walla Walla Valley Syrah, showing the stylistic consistency from this southern valley region.

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Magician White Wine Evergreen Vineyard Columbia Valley 2010 $17
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with peaches, white flowers, honey, and mineral. A full bodied wine that is tart and crisp with rounded fruit flavors, especially lime. This is your perfect, delicious summer wine. 85% Gewurztraminer, 15% Riesling. 12.5% alcohol. 1.1% Residual Sugar.

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Enchantress Chardonnay Yakima Valley 2009 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of spice, butter, and Granny Smith apple. A layered wine with a creamy mid-palate and etched acidity. 100% Chardonnay. French Creek Vineyard. Barrel fermented and aged 11 months in neutral French oak. 14.1% alcohol. 90 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars Magician’s Assistant Rose Columbia Valley 2010 $17
Rating: + (Good) A very pretty light salmon color. Aromas of strawberry, melon, and light spices. Bone dry on the palate with crisp, incredibly fresh fruit flavors. An extremely enjoyable wine with great acidity. 100% Cabernet Franc. Black Rock and Chelle den Millie vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.2% alcohol. Recommended

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Spellbinder Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $19
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant cherry aromas along with tobacco and herbal notes on a wine with a lot of aromatic complexity for its price point. A rich mouthfeel on an incredibly clean, focused palate with refined tannins. A lingering finish. A screaming deal at this price point. 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 10% Sangiovese, and 9% Syrah. Blue Mountain, Red Mountain, Phinny Hill, Seven Hills, Lewis, Les Collines, Blackrock, Chelle den Mille, and Double Canyon vineyards. Aged 11 months in neutral French oak. 14.4% alcohol.

Sleight of Hand Cellars The Illusionist Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Appealing aromas of black cherry, coffee bean, a jumble of blue fruit, and mineral notes. The palate has incredibly clean, fresh, plump fruit flavors with dense, refined, supple tannins. Beautiful intensity of fruit with a lot of pure cabernet flavors. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Syrah. Va Piano, Double River, Red Mountain, Frenchtown, Chelle den Mille vineyards. Aged 23 months in French oak (50% new). 14.5% alcohol.

Sleight of Hand Cellars Levitation Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color with purple at the rim. Abundant notes of violets along with smoked meats and a toasty top note. The palate is lithe and loaded with raspberries and red fruit flavors. A cranberry lick on the finish. 100% Syrah. Les Collines and Lewis Vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (50% new). 298 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars Funkadelic Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2009 $60
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Aromas jump from the glass of earth, funk, mineral, black olive juice, ash, game, and a whiff of orange peel. A thoroughly delicious, delectable wine that shows the Rocks district of the Walla Walla Valley perfectly. 100% Syrah. The Funk Vineyard. Aged 11 months in French oak (25% new). 13.9% alcohol. 95 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars

Winemaker Anna Schafer of àMaurice Cellars continues to impress with another set of extraordinary releases. It’s clear talking with Schafer that she has a strong attachment to her wines. Schafer says, referring to her new releases – some of which are currently out and the rest of which will be released shortly - “I don’t know about the new people showing up. You have to live with them for a year to get used to them.”

While it may take Schafer time to adjust, the new àMaurice Cellars wines are among the best the winery has produced. The entire lineup is captivating without a weak link in the bunch. Among the standouts is an extremely high quality Chardonnay. While Schafer’s Malbec is always one of the winery’s strengths – and among the best examples of this varietal in Washington - the 2008 vintage offering is bigger and brawnier, or as Schafer says affectionately, “a little monster.”

Schafer calls the Red Blend in the “heart of the winery” and if so the heart beats strongly. The 2008 vintage is named after Northwest artist Mark Tobey, the first American painter to ever have an exhibit at the Louvre. The 2008 vintage contains a healthy dose – 30% - of Cabernet Franc. Schafer says of the blend, “At first Cabernet Franc fights with the other kids at first and then it subsides.” The 2008 ‘The Tobey’ Red Wine is a stunner that punches far above its price point.

àMaurice Cellars Viognier Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with white peaches and light floral notes. The palate is full bodied redolent with peach flavors with a honeyed feel. Capped off by a long finish. 100% Viognier. Gamache Vineyard & Elephant Mountain Vineyards. Barrel fermented and aged in 2-year old French oak. 354 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2008 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) A light green tinge to the color. Appealing aromas of spice and light toast along with yellow apple. Palate is crisp, tart, and textured with a weighted feel and a long finish. Add àMaurice Cellars to the list of great Washington Chardonnay producers. 100% Chardonnay. Conner Lee and Lewis vineyards. Fermented and aged in French oak (30% new). 314 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars Grenache/Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $34
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with a jumble of red and blue fruit along with light game, raspberries, floral notes, and a distinctive mineral note. Deliciously ripe, fleshy red fruit flavors on the palate lead to a lingering finish. Has a grainy, chewy feel. 88% Syrah, 12% Grenache. Boushey, Lewis, Minick, and aMaurice vineyards. Aged in 2-year-old French oak. 231 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars Malbec Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark and inky with a purple rim. Abundant pepper and plum aromas along with spice. Rich and flavorful on the palate with great depth on a deliciously varietal wine. A big, brawny beast with a long finish. 100% Malbec. Gamache Vineyard. Aged in French oak (40% new). 14.5% alcohol. 320 cases produced.

àMaurice Cellars ‘The Tobey’ Red Wine Blend Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Cabernet Franc pops at present with herbal notes, rich cherries, and high toned floral notes. A rich, layered wine with graceful, structured tannins. Huge and rich with focused fruit flavors. 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 26% Merlot. Sagemoor, Bacchus, Dionysus, Gamache, Weinbau, and Tokar vineyards. Aged in French oak. 14.6% alcohol. 492 cases produced.

July's Virtual Tasting will be Thursday July 28th from 7-8pm Pacific. The wine is the 2009 Fidelitas M100 Red Wine. This wine retails for $20 and is widely available.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Join us this month at Wine World Warehouse in Seattle! This month we'll be doing a special live tasting at Wine World with Jess Zander from Fidelitas on the 28th from 7-8pm

2. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery

3. Post your comments/tweets on the wine between 7 and 8pm. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport. I will be using the hashtag #Fidelitas during the event.

Hope you will join us!

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from July 8th to 14th. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the world…

The Manila Standard writes about some of Washington’s best wines.


From around the country…

Food & Wine writes about K Vintners and Gramercy Cellars.

The Chicago Tribune writes about Riesling with a shout out to Barnard Griffin and Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Wines & Vines writes about a housing plan for wine workers.


From the blogosphere…

Northwest Wine Anthem writes about Syncline.

Esquin’s Blog writes about Hogue Cellars’ screwcap research.

Life Between the Vines talks with Buty’s Caleb Foster in this month’s podcast.

Table Talk writes about small lots.

Lucha Vino compares a Washington Bordeaux-style blend to a French Bordeaux.

Sip of Spokane writes about Whitestone Winery.

Woodinville Wine Update writes that Gordon Brothers tasting room will close. Shona also writes about upcoming events, William Church’s new tasting room, and Edmonds Winery teaming up with Piccola Cellars.

Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about beer versus wine at Italianissimo. They also write about the Stottle Tempranillo and new Washington wineries to watch.

Wine Peeps writes about the 2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Sauvignon Blanc. They also write about a challenging wine pairing, and William Church Winery.

WINO Magazine writes about Rhone Rangers.

Woodinville Patch writes about Alexandria Nicole.

The Pour Fool writes about Martin Scott.

Write for Wine writes about William Church’s new tasting room. Margot also writes about dinner at Desert Wind.

Now and Zin writes about wine at Starbucks.

Under the Grape Tree writes about Maryhill. He also writes about Milbrandt.


From the locals…

The News Tribune writes about the 2011 growing season.

The Yakima Herald writes about Hogue Cellars’ screwcap research.

Writing for the Seattle Times Paul Gregutt writes about Washington and Napa Valley Cabernet.

The Tri-City Herald writes about the Walla Walla Valley helping the Oregon wine industry grow.

Wenatchee World writes about the NCW Wine Awards. They also write about red blends.

The Columbian Writes about Burnt Bridge Cellars.


That’s all folks!

Chateau Ste. Michelle winemaker Joshua Maloney has been named the Director of Winemaking for Milbrandt Vineyards. Maloney, who has been red winemaker at Ste. Michelle for six years, will begin his new position next month in time for the 2011 crush.

Maloney assumes the position previously occupied by Gordy Hill, among Washington’s more talented – and unsung - winemakers. The Director of Winemaking position involves both making wines for Milbrandt Vineyards as well as running the custom crush facility at the Wahluke Wine Company. The combined production would be the state’s fourth largest winery if it were a single entity. Wine from Wahluke Wine Company go into scores of bottles from many notable Washington wineries.

Maloney just may be the perfect person to fill Hill’s large shoes. He brings extensive experience with winemaking as well as the organizational expertise necessary for working at scale.

Maloney, who graduated from Cornell University with a degree in chemistry, started out working for a small winery in the Finger Lakes region of New York. From there he went to Napa Valley’s Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars where he worked as a lab technician and cellar worker before moving to Estancia Estates Winery. At Estancia he oversaw the Merlot program. Maloney joined Chateau Ste. Michelle as red winemaker in 2005 at the age of 32 - the youngest person ever to be named to the position.

The opportunity at Milbrandt is a unique one. Milbrandt Vineyards encompasses over 1,800 hundred acres, with most of the acreage concentrated on or around the Wahluke Slope. The Milbrandts work with countless Washington wineries, both in terms of fruit contracts and through the Wahluke Wine Company.

Maloney is excited to work for the Milbrandt brothers. “They are master of the dirt. If you really want to wrap your arms around what it takes to be successful making wine, that’s it right there,” Maloney says.

Maloney says that, while leaving Chateau Ste. Michelle was a difficult decision, he is looking forward to a new challenge. “The team that I’ve worked with at Chateau Ste. Michelle is honest to God one of the best teams I’ve ever been on,” Maloney says. “I’m eternally grateful to Chateau Ste. Michelle for bringing me up here from California.”

Maloney is unabashedly bullish about the future of Washington wine. “I’ve made wine in two parts of California, and I’ve made wine in upstate New York. Nothing comes close to making wine in Washington,” he says. “I’m absolutely convinced that this area has the potential to eclipse wines from anywhere else in the world.”

Maloney is also effusive about the opportunity at Milbrandt. “It’s going to be a new learning curve to me to take what I’ve learned here and apply it to other wineries and other labels,” Maloney says. “I’m excited about it.”

Maloney begins at Milbrandt Vineyards in August.

Today’s Fresh Sheet – new and recent Washington wine releases – includes wines from Vinyl Wines, Mannina Cellars, Long Shadows, and Woodhouse Wine Estates.


Vinyl Wines

Vinyl Wines is a unique project from winemaker Chip McLaughlin and Spencer Richards. The winery aims to bridge the gap between McLaughlin’s two passions – wine and music.

McLaughlin was introduced to the world of wine by his brother Erik. Erik has a long history in the wine industry, from a corporate wine buyer for Cost Plus, to restaurant owner, and most recently as Director of Wineries for Corliss Estates. “There were always a lot of bottles to open and try,” McLaughlin says.

McLaughlin also grew up around music, with his father a program director and on-air personality in Boise, Idaho, McLaughlin’s home town. In fact, McLaughlin’s birth announcement was a picture from the hospital on a vinyl record. True to these roots, McLaughlin plays guitar and piano.

It wasn’t until he moved to Walla Walla in 2009 that McLaughlin became serious about making wine. “I fell in love with Walla Walla the first time I went up there,” he says. McLaughlin started out making wine almost straight off, learning through “osmosis” from working with a number of the area’s winemakers.

These are Vinyl Wines’ inaugural releases. The first is the R³ , standing for Rick Ross Rosé – a hip hop artist who frequently raps about this much maligned wine. The EQ Grenache has a double meaning, both standing for equalization and the initials of one of McLaughlin’s best friend’s daughters. This is a seldom seen Walla Walla Valley designated bottle.

Each of the Vinyl wines has a code on the side of the cork. Using the code people can go to the winery’s website and download a playlist of songs from unsigned bands McLaughlin is interested in. Each bottle also has a short piece of music notation along the side, with the Grenache sporting the guitar lead to “Artist and the Ambulance” by Thrice.

Vinyl Wines made 110 cases in 2010.

Vinyl Wines R³ Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: + (Good) Bright pink colored. An aromatic wine with cherries, strawberry, and other red fruit along with bubble gum notes. Palate brings more fruit flavors than are often seen in rose along with well balanced by acidity with just a suggestion of Residual Sugar (0.4) that carries the wine across the palate to the finish. Alcohol shows through at times. 13.3% alcohol. 91 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Vinyl Wines ‘EQ’ Grenache Walla Walla Valley 2009 $25
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Light in color. Delicate aromas of tea leaves, cranberries, red berries, and orange peel. The palate is delicate and light-bodied but with a full, fleshy feel with abundant cranberry flavors. 100% Grenache. Cockburn Ranch. Aged in second fill French oak. 13.6% alcohol. 25 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.


Mannina Cellars

Mannina Cellars’ winemaker Don Redman was working as a police officer in Los Angeles when he decided it was time for a change. “I decided whatever I could put in the back of my truck, that was what I was moving to Washington,” Redman says.

Redman started out working at a pulp mill in Bellingham before an opportunity at Boise Cascade brought him to Walla Walla in 2001. Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellar came over for dinner one night and brought a bottle of his wine. For Redman, it was a revelation. “I was like, wow! That’s different,” he says.

Redman started out as a home winemaker in 2002 before renting space from Richard Funk at Saviah Cellars to make his first commercial wine. He named the winery Mannina Cellars after his mother, Roseanne Mannina, who emigrated from Sicily in 1942.

Mannina Cellars is located in the airport region of Walla Walla. Redman did his own work on the building including plumbing and painting to help keep prices down. “My wife and I just want to make a living,” he says. Redman also keeps the Mannina Cellars wines at very affordable prices, saying, “Right out of the shoot to price my wines high? Who the hell am I?”

While Redman initially sourced grapes from throughout Washington, he now uses fruit exclusively from Walla Walla. “I want to be a Walla Walla winery,” Redman says.

Redman planted a 29-acre vineyard out by Birch Creek two years ago. “I work it. I farm it. I do everything,” he says. While many have visions of what it would be like to work in a vineyard, Redman says with a laugh, “If it was one acre it would be romantic…”

All of the Mannina Cellars wines are well made, low oak and low alcohol wines with abundant tart fruit flavors. Far from cocktails, these wines need food to show their best.

Mannina Cellars produces 2,700 cases annually.

Mannina Cellars Sangiovese Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $22
Rating: + (Good) Dark in color. A lightly aromatic wine with high toned herbal notes, raspberries, and strawberries. Light bodied, tart and acidic on the palate. Drops off toward the finish. 92% Sangiovese, 8% Merlot. Aged 13 months in neutral French and Hungarian oak. 14.1% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars RoseAnne’s Red Walla Walla Valley 2008 $20
Rating: . (Decent) A pretty, lightly aromatic wine with herbal notes, red cherries, and light wood spices. Very tart on the palate with sour cherry flavors. 55% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. Golden Ridge and Birch Creek vineyards. 13.8% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars Merlot Birch Creek Vineyards Walla Walla Valley 2008 $24
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) A lightly aromatic wine with sweet spices, vanilla, herbal notes, and high toned cherries. Tart on the palate with zippy acidity and grainy tannins. 91% Merlot. 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13.7% alcohol. 135 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars Cali Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $17
Rating: + (Good) A lightly aromatic wine with red cherries, herbal notes, green notes, and kisses of black licorice. Tart and puckering on the palate with mocha flavors and an acidic kick. 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, and 4% Sangiovese. Birch Creek, Pepper Bridge, Les Collines, and Seven Hills vineyards. 13.8% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Mannina Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Birch Creek Vineyards Walla Walla Valley 2008 $30
Rating: . (Decent) A lightly aromatic wine with herbal notes, green notes, and cherries. A fresh, clean wine with abundant, puckering cherry flavors on the palate. 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot. 13.9% alcohol. 92 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.


Onesies

At Long Shadows former Stimson Lane CEO Allen Shoup pairs top winemakers from around the world with fruit from some of Washington’s best vineyards. Here acclaimed Napa Valley winemaker Randy Dunn gives his interpretation of Washington Cabernet Sauvignon. As with the 2007 vintage listed below, this is always an intriguing bottle, showing more of the grape’s elegance and sophistication than its sheer power that is often on display.

Long Shadows Feather Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $55
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with dried cranberries, raspberries, very light herbal notes, scorched earth, and peppery spices. The palate is full of concentrated fruit flavors, lush but far from over the top, with grainy tannins. A very pretty expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that will only improve with time in the cellar. Give one to two years. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 22 months in French oak (90% new). 14.2% alcohol. 1,991 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.


Kennedy Shah is a label for Woodhouse Wine Estates, which also includes Dussek, Darighe, Hudson Shah, and Maghee. Jean Claude Beck, whose familial winemaking roots date back to 1579, serves as winemaker here. The Kennedy Shah Reserve from DuBrul Vineyard is a rare bottle of vineyard-designated Riesling from this esteemed vineyard.

Kennedy Shah Reserve Riesling DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley 2009 $25
Rating: . (Decent) A lightly aromatic wine with pear and lemon notes. Tart on the palate with a somewhat fat feel with abundant pear, lemon, and lime notes. Alcohol bleeds through at times. 100% Riesling. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 14.3% alcohol. 124 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Hogue Cellars has long been an advocate for screwcap closures. The winery now takes the big plunge, moving its entire production to screwcaps after a comprehensive five-year study.

Hogue’s decision to move its production entirely to screwcaps was firmly rooted in science. The company first began seriously looking at alternative closures in 2001. At the time, the winery began a three year study comparing cork, synthetic closures, and screwcaps. Based on this study the winery moved 70% of its production to Saranex-lined screwcaps, starting in 2004. Hogue left its remaining wines in cork pending further study.

Hogue began its second study in 2005. The purpose was both to further validate the earlier findings and to evaluate the effects of different closure types on oxygen ingress, fruit preservation, and the ability to age.

First the winery looked at an oxygen-sensitive wine, Sauvignon Blanc. Here Hogue looked at 10 different closure types – seven different types of screwcaps and three different types of synthetic corks. Wines were tasted blind every four months for two years by a seven member tasting panel.

What the winery found was that wines sealed with a Saranex-lined screwcap better retained fresh aromas and flavors compared to the other closure types. The winery also found that not all screwcaps were created equal. Aluminum-lined screwcaps had flinty characteristics. Closures that let in very low amounts of oxygen had more reductive qualities, and ones that let in higher amounts of oxygen showed more aged characteristics.

Next the winery compared two Merlots – the 2003 Genesis Merlot ($15) and the 2004 Hogue Merlot ($9). Here the winery used nine different closures including: natural cork, five different types of screwcaps, and three different synthetic closures. Wines were tasted blind every 12 months for five years using a seven person tasting panel. Wines were subsequently evaluated on a number of different sensory criteria.

What the winery found was that, after five years, the 2003 Genesis Merlot using a Saranex-lined screwcap showed more fruit intensity compared to other closure types. This closure preserved the wine better than natural corks and synthetics but also did so appropriate for the wine’s age. Interestingly, the winery found that the amount of nitrogen added to the headspace made a significant difference, with raters preferring wines without nitrogen added. Fairly similar results were found for the 2004 Hogue Merlot.

Based on its study, the winery concluded screwcaps can be as good or better at both preserving wines and aging wine. As a result the winery plans to move the remainder of its production – Genesis and Reserve - to screwcap closures with Saranex linings starting with the 2009 vintage.

One interesting point from Hogue’s study is that there were large differences in various closures on how well the wine aged. Wines aged under certain closures were well preserved but still showed appropriate aged characteristics. Wines under different closures were not or did not.

This point was underscored by a blind tasting of its 2003 Genesis Merlot during the company’s recent presentation in Seattle. The tasting included five different closure types. The wines were markedly different with some extremely well preserved, some faded, and some in between.

For me, the wine that I most preferred was the Saranex lined closure using nitrogen in the headspace. However, I preferred this wine largely because it had been essentially mummified, showing almost no age whatsoever compared to its counterparts. In contrast, the Saranex-lined closure without nitrogen in the headspace showed an appropriate amount of age but was still well preserved. Notably, the wine using a cork closure was identifiable as it had a slight ‘corkiness’ to it, although the wine was well-preserved.

Overall, the Hogue study is notable for its scientific rigor. The winery should also be commended for the openness with which it has shared its findings (go to www.twistopenhogue.com for additional information). This type of study takes an enormous amount of time and considerable cost. To wit, 3,200 different samples were used during the course of the study. Few wineries in Washington have the ability, financially or logistically, to pull something like this off.

Co-founder Gary Hogue said that while the cost of the study was substantial, there was a more important driving force in conducting the study. “If your name is on a product and it’s bad, it’s embarrassing,” Hogue said. Hogue also questioned how acceptable it is to have wines tainted by TCA, even if the overall level of cork taint is low. “When you go into a grocery store, how many sections have consumables that are tainted? One – the wine section.”

While Hogue is now committed to using screwcaps for 100% of its production, Director of Winemaking Co Dinn understands that it will still take other wineries – and consumers – additional convincing. “This is just a piece of the puzzle. It helps move the needle a little bit,” Dinn says.

Note: Read my most recent update on the number of corked wines I have had in 2011 here. Read Part I in a recent series about why I came to believe in alternative closures here; read Part II about the experience of six Washington wineries using alternative closures here; and read Part III, the closing argument on alternative closures, here.