Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report Note: Site has moved to www.northwestwinereport.com

Tonight! June Virtual Tasting from 7-8pm. Read about how to participate here.

Tenor Wines is one of the more intriguing new wineries to come along in Washington recently.

The winery takes a unique approach in its offerings. While most wineries in Washington and elsewhere focus on making a particular lineup of wines each year – say Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, and Chardonnay – Tenor instead has a lineup that varies each year depending on what the vintage gives.

For example, in 2007 Tenor made a Merlot and a Malbec. In 2008, it made a Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah. Additionally, while many wineries blend in larger or smaller percentages of other varietals, the Tenor wines are 100% varietal. The intention is to show the true expression of that particular varietal in that particular vintage.

Winemaker Aryn Morell, who also serves as consulting winemaker at Matthews Estate, says his goal with Tenor is not just to showcase particular varietals but also to only offer “world-class” wines. By this he means that the wines compare favorably to the best examples from a particular vintage. The winery even guarantees this to be the case.

In addition to its 100% varietal wines, Tenor also makes a single Bordeaux-style blend. This wine is called 1:1, alternately meaning Chapter 1, verse 1 and symbolizing a “new beginning.” In contrast to the rest of its portfolio, the winery plans to make this Bordeaux-style blend each year.

In terms of approach, Morell says he puts a premium on balance and that his goal with Tenor is, “powerful refinement.” He says, “I want a wine that is powerful but doesn’t come off as a slap in the face.”

While Tenor focuses largely on single varietal wines, Morell believes the sum of these wines is just as important. “My hope is that the wines will be seen more as a collection than individual parts,” he says.

The winery is elusive about its vineyard sources, stating on its website, “For business reasons, we do not disclose the names of our vineyard partners.” Morell believes, however, that focusing in the vineyard is critical. He travels to eastern Washington approximately 30 times a year to work with the winery’s sites.

The Tenor project is nothing if not ambitious – a new winery with price points that compete with some of the state’s best. While this would seem to be a particular challenge given the current state of the economy, Tenor’s initial releases are nothing if not impressive.

As one might expect, Tenor is starting off slowly, making 270 cases in 2007, increasing to 560 in 2008, and 610 in 2009. The 2010 numbers are still being determined. The winery recently opened a tasting room in the Warehouse District of Woodinville.

Tenor Wines Malbec Columbia Valley 2007 $48
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark to the point of being opaque. Brooding aromatics of plum, high toned pepper, spice, and licorice. On the palate a big, rich, delicious, beautifully polished wine with concentrated fruit flavors and a firm backbone of tannins. A seemingly endless finish. A beautiful mixture of power and finesse with a long life ahead of it. 100% Malbec. Aged 18 months in new French oak. 15.0% alcohol. 38 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $48
Rating: ** (Exceptional) The aromatics are arrestingly complex with licorice, coffee bean, a jumble of red and black fruit, and high toned oak spices. The palate is big and beautifully rich with a cornucopia of fruit flavors. Rich and opulent while retaining great subtlety. Capped off by a long finish. A shot across the bow of the state’s top Merlots. 100% Merlot. Aged 18 months in new French oak. 15.0% alcohol. 78 cases produced.

Tenor Wines 1:1 Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $78
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A big dollop of licorice, black fruit, pencil shavings, and spice on a complex, detailed aroma profile where the layers keep coming. On the palate, a gigantically big wine with rich black fruit flavors and a big lick of tannins. A beautiful balance of grace and power. Give three years. 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 10% Malbec. Aged 21 months in new French oak. 141 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $58
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Intensely dark in color with purple at the rim. Aromatics pop with olive, mineral, smoke, and black fruit. A textured, rich palate with a compelling mouthfeel an beautifully integrated tannins. Big while never quite being over the top, this wine ramps up and sails on the finish. 100% Syrah. Aged 17 months in 500L French oak barrels. 15.0% alcohol. 108 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Merlot Columbia Valley 2008 $58
Rating: * (Excellent) Locked up tightly at present with licorice, pencil lead, and high toned red fruit. The palate has generous amounts of fruit while remaining deft on its feet. 100% Merlot. Aged 18 months in new French oak. 165 cases produced.

Tenor Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $78
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark in color. Enticing aromas of pencil box, high toned herbal notes, black cherries, and cranberries. Simultaneously big and refined on the palate with the structure for the long haul. Give two plus years. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 21 months in new French oak. 152 cases produced.

Doubleback was unquestionably one of 2010’s most exciting new wineries. On the cusp of its second release, the winery shows every sign of establishing itself as one of Washington’s best.

Doubleback was founded by former NFL quarterback and Walla Walla native Drew Bledsoe and his wife Maura. Critical to the winery’s success, Chris Figgins from Figgins Family Wine Estates was hired as consulting winemaker (read a Focus Report on the winery here).

The response to Doubleback’s inaugural release, a 2007 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, was overwhelming. It included dueling 95-point scores from Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator and a spot on the latter’s annual Top 100 list.

Bledsoe says that, even with top vineyard sources and one of the state’s best winemakers in place, he never expected such a positive response to the first release. Apparently many of his friends didn’t either.

“One of the most gratifying things is having friends and former players that bought the wine just to be supportive and then get the wine and crack a bottle. I would get text messages and phone calls saying, ‘Dude this wine is actually really, really good!’” Bledsoe says with a laugh. “They were looking at it, rightfully so, like, ‘This old football player, what does he know about wine?’”

Far from a vanity project, Drew Bledsoe is serious about wine and about making the best Walla Walla Valley Cabernet possible at Doubleback. The 2008 vintage release continues to set the bar high. In fact, when the 2007 wine was being released both Bledsoe and Chris Figgins were already quietly talking about how excited they were about the 2008 vintage.

Bledsoe says that while the 2008 wine is a clear sibling to the 2007 vintage, he believes it’s a bit more complete. “We’ve still got the nice soft tannin structure on the attack and nice long finish; nice acidity that gives us some more flexibility in terms of food pairing; but I think we rounded out the middle,” Bledsoe says. “It’s a bigger, rounder, and I would say even softer wine than the 2007.”

Much like the 2007 release, the 2008 Cabernet uses top sources Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, and Figgins Estate. However the winery added Cabernet Sauvignon from LeFore Vineyard in The Rocks district of the Walla Walla Valley, which Bledsoe says has given the wine some minerality.

To support the inaugural release Bledsoe traveled to the areas he played football – New England, Buffalo, and Dallas. What he found was that despite the amount of exceptional wine being produced in Washington, the region remains somewhat unknown in many areas of the country.

“There is still some relative ignorance about the quality that is coming out of Walla Walla and out of Washington when you get out to the rest of the country,” Bledsoe says. “It’s still very Napa centric.” Both a wine lover and a strong advocate for the Washington wine industry, Bledsoe used the opportunity to give a message he firmly believes.

“I believe Washington is not just another wine region,” Bledsoe says. “This is a wine region that is producing some of the very best wines in the world.” Comparing Washington and California he says, “I think are we’re delivering better quality and better value at every price point.”

Bledsoe says that Doubleback’s mission will continue to be focusing on the production of a single wine. He plans to increase production as the winery’s vineyard sources mature over time. “The goal,” he says, “is to get into a range where we actually turn it into a viable business instead of just an expensive hobby.”

As the winery continues to progress, Bledsoe has made a number of changes. He sold his Flying B Vineyard in the Columbia Valley and purchased another vineyard in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley. This vineyard was subsequently named after Bledsoe’s late father-in-law, Bob Healy.

Bledsoe says that there is some irony in giving the site his father-in-law’s name. “He and I had this on-going debate forever and ever about wine,” Bledsoe says. “He was one of these guys that thinks its just pure marketing, and there’s no difference between a $10 bottle and a $100 bottle. Now I’m getting the last word. We’ll make some kick-ass wine from the vineyard named after him."

Despite having a well-known name and signing on one of the state’s best winemakers, Bledsoe says that succeeding in the industry is still not easy. “You literally have to do everything right,” he says. “The quality has got to be there. The marketing has got to be there. You’ve got to get face-to-face with people and tell the story. If you touch all of the bases, then you’ve got a shot. If you miss on any one of them then you’re behind the eight ball a little bit.”

While four years removed from the NFL, Bledsoe continues to have an interest in the sport – and fans continue to have interest in him. Bledsoe was recently voted by New England Patriots fans into the teams’ Hall of Fame. The Bledsoe family will travel back to New England for the induction in September – assuming there is an NFL season.

Bledsoe, for one, believes the current labor dispute will ultimately be resolved. “I think they all recognize that they’d be killing the Golden Goose,” he says. “It’s all fun and games until you start missing actual football games. That’s when you’re going alienate your fan base. Fans don’t want to see the billionaires arguing with the millionaires over money. It doesn’t really resonate with people.” Amen.

Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2008 $85
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color. Aromas of cherries, raspberries, earth, espresso, licorice, woodspice, and a touch of herbal notes on an aromatically complex, compelling wine. Rich, ripe, and wound up tightly at present with a dense core of fruit, earth flavors, and soft, beautifully refined tannins. A thirty plus second finish. Give one to two years but will be worth the wait. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 7% Petite Verdot. Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, Figgins Estate, and LeFore vineyards. Aged 22 months in French oak (60% new). 14.4% alcohol. 900 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Last week Senator Jim DeMint, Republican from South Carolina, took issue with a grant from the Economic Development Association to Prosser’s Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center. In an editorial in the Wall Street Journal, DeMint asks, “Why Are Taxpayers Paying for Wine Tasting?” To this I ask Senator DeMint, “What’s wrong with wine tasting? And by the way, why are taxpayers subsidizing your state’s tobacco industry?”

Senator DeMint’s editorial is generally focused on wasteful spending. However, he singles out Prosser’s Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center as a particularly egregious example of abuse.

The Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center is envisioned as a “learning center that promotes regional wine and food by actively engaging visitors to learn, experience and appreciate the quality and diversity of Pacific Northwest wine and food products.” The Center will include: interactive galleries, a theatre, a demonstration kitchen, interpretive vineyards, a wine bar, a retail space, and classrooms. Doesn’t sound too nefarious to me.

Don’t get me wrong. Is building the Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center particularly critical at this moment of extreme budget deficits? Probably not. However, is this $2M grant particularly worthy of scorn as DeMint suggests? No. Rather it would appear that it draws DeMint’s attention because it has something to do with wine. Wine tasting. It sounds so ugly and so French doesn’t it?

Let me take a crack at answering the senator’s question.

Senator DeMint, why should the government support a project that promotes the Washington wine industry? Because this industry creates an estimated 29,000 jobs nationwide and has a $4.7 billion impact on the U.S. economy according to the Washington Wine Commission. I should note that the EDA’s function is, “to generate jobs, help retain existing jobs, and stimulate industrial and commercial growth in economically distressed areas.” Funding this center in Prosser would seem well within its mission.

I found it interesting that you singled out this particular project in Washington rather than focusing on those closer to home. As I’m sure you know, South Carolina has been no stranger to receiving EDA money in recent years. Among the grants in 2010 was a $1.25 million grant to Clemson University for building renovations. Is this so different from funding the construction of the Clore building? Was the Clemson building work really in our “national interests?”

I too have concerns about wasteful spending, particularly the almost $17M in tobacco subsidies that the US government gave South Carolina last year. With 443,000 tobacco related deaths each year, I’m having a hard time feeling that my taxpayer money is well spent. I would be interested to hear your thoughts.

I agree that there is a serious discussion about government spending to be had in Washington. But singling out the Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center is just the same sort of nonsense and hypocrisy that Washington has become so well known for, don’t you think?

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

Idilico is a sister brand from winemaker Javier Alfonso of Pomum Cellars. The winery is named after a bull in Barcelona that survived a fight on September 21, 2008 and was subsequently pardoned for its brave performance - a rare occurrence.

This is the winery’s first release. Alfonso says his goal is to add as many Washington-grown Spanish varietals as possible (look for a review of the winery’s Garnacha in an upcoming Fresh Sheet). He says, “We want consumers to experiment and reach out to new things and keep an open mind. We encourage this by keeping prices reasonable so the consumer doesn't feel they are wagering too much on a single bottle.”

Albariño is a fairly rare varietal in Washington. Grapes for this wine come from a 6-acre vineyard in the Yakima Valley north of the Prosser. The site, in its third leaf and bearing its first fruit in 2010, was planted by the Den Hoed brothers. With 2010 a challenging growing year throughout Washington, the yield from these vines was a paltry one ton per acre. The result, however, is the perfect summer white - crisp, refreshing, and well priced.

I wrote recently of Hestia Cellars' excellent 2009 vintage Chenin Blanc. The 2010 vintage, while stylistically considerably different with less obvious lees influence, is every bit as delicious. However, due to the difficult growing season – especially for white grapes – a mere 200 cases of this wine were produced from the winery, a fraction of their normal production. This one will not last long.

Kyra Wines was founded by Kyra and Bruce Baerlocher in 1999. That year the Baerlochers purchased an apple orchard on the Wahluke Slope and converted half of it to wine grapes. Kyra Wines had its first commercial release with the 2004 vintage. Since that time, Kyra Baerlocher, who has a bachelor’s degree in bacteriology from the University of Idaho, has shown a knack for producing enjoyable, well priced wines. A consistent standout in the lineup is the winery’s Chenin Blanc, which hails from Harold Pleasant Vineyard.

OS Winery is named after founders Bill Owen, who serves as winemaker, and Rob Owen. The winery is one of a number in the South Seattle area that together comprise the South Seattle Artisan Wineries. The winery’s 2007 Red Wine comes from declassified barrels and is a quality bottle at this price point.

The g3 White Wine comes from Goose Ridge Winery. The winery – which boasts a 1,400 acre vineyard - was founded in 1999 by the Monson family. Winemaker Kendall Mix, previously of Corliss Estates, joined the winemaking team in April of 2010. The Goose Ridge g3 is an interesting blend of Semillon, Chardonnay, Roussanne, Viognier, and Riesling.

Idilico Albarino Washington State 2010 $15
Rating: * (Excellent) Appealing, perfumed aromas of white flowers, green apple, and spice. Palate is crisp and clean with the hallmark brisk, tart, lemony acidity of the 2010 vintage. Truly summer in a glass. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.5% alcohol. 140 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Hestia Cellars Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant, ripe Asian pear aromas along with lemon rind and white grapefruit. Palate is crisp and lemony with mouthwatering acidity. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13.0% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kyra Wines Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley 2010 $12
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Almost water white. Pleasing aromas of hay, honeydew melon, and whiffs of pineapple. Rounded, crisp, and tart. An extremely enjoyable wine that is just a tad off-dry but with enough acidity to make it seem less sweet than the RS would indicate. 100% Chenin Blanc. Harold Pleasant Vineyard. 11.5% alcohol. 1.8% Residual Sugar. 402 cases produced.

OS Winery Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $15
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Abundant fresh berries along with herbal notes and bittersweet chocolate. Ripe and tangy, full of cherry flavors that coat the tongue. Gets a little tart at times but overall a big value winner. 41% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. 14.7% alcohol. 450 cases produced.

Goose Ridge Vineyards g3 White Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $14
Rating: + (Good) A pleasing aroma profile of floral notes, toasty spice, butter, lemon, green apple, pineapple, spice, and hay. Palate has a creamy, full feel and abundant citrus flavors. The oak is not shy but overall a very enjoyable, well-priced wine. 47% Semillon, 31% Chardonnay, 15% Roussanne, 6% Viognier, and 1% Riesling. 13.7% alcohol. 304 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Earlier this month the winners of the 2011 Seattle Wine Awards were announced. This program was founded by Executive Director Christopher Chan in 2006 to recognize the state's best wines.

This year saw an unprecedented 909 submissions. Tasting panels (see a list of panel participants here) evaluated wines blind based on color, aroma, flavor & palate, balance, finish, and overall impression. Top wines received Double Gold, Gold, Silver and Bronze Grand Awards of Excellence based both on varietal and price category.

Congratulations to all of the 2011 award-winning wineries!

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from June 15th to 21st. See previous round-ups here.


From around the world…

The Manila Standard writes about Washington Riesling.


From around the country…

The San Santonio Current writes about Charles Smith.

Wines & Vines writes about Walla Walla wineries reinforcing their staff training.

Wine Spectator writes about value Bordeaux-style blend from Washington.

The Wall Street Journal asks why taxpayers are paying for the Walter Clore Culinary Center (Note: Requires subscription).


From the blogosphere…

The Pour Fool writes about summer whites.

Lot18 does a Q&A with Anna Schafer of aMaurice.

The Wine Knows says head to California to drink Washington wine. He also writes about Saint Laurent.

Paul Gregutt writes about a trip to Cayuse. He also asks how much wineries should charge for their wines.

Table Talk writes about three wineries to know.

Sips & The City writes about El Gaucho’s Pour on the Plaza.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about the Iron Vintner Challenge.

Pairing Up tries Fjellene Cellars.

Wine Peeps writes about Soos Creek. They also write about the Saviah Cellars Riesling.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine (welcome back!) writes about Sleight of Hand Cellars The Spellbinder Red.

Under the Grape Tree writes about NXNW.

Northwest Wine Anthem (welcome) writes about Sonoris Wines. They also give a Friday find.


From the locals…

The Tri-City Herald writes about the wine center seeking funds. They also write about the Seattle Wine Awards.

Wine Press NW writes about the Ash Hollow Headless Red.

The Yakima Herald writes about the November freeze.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about Chardonnay standouts.

The Spokesman Review writes about the Walter Clore Wine Center looking for funds from Benton County.


That's all folks!

In a tough economy there is nothing like finding a wine that drinks like a more expensive bottle. Here are a few that have stood out recently. While you won’t find any of these wines in the value bin – see next week’s monthly Five Under $15 for that – each of these wines drinks like a wine of a considerably higher price point, allowing one to simultaneously drink up by drinking down.

The first is from Tranche Cellars. I have sung the praises of this winery before. Tranche consistently produces wines that punch above their weight class (see a previous post on the winery here). This Cabernet Franc is the first released red wine from the winery’s estate vineyard, Blue Mountain. This stunningly beautiful vineyard was formerly part of the Nicolas Cole Cellars site that Tranche now inhabits. The 2007 Cabernet Franc from Tranche Cellars is an outrageously good wine at this price point.

SYZYGY Winery is the work of Walla Walla’s Zach Brettler. The winery is named after a term for the alignment of three celestial bodies. While SYZYGY has made a name for itself with its Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, the Red Wine is not too far off these wines in terms of quality. The 2007 vintage is half Syrah with the balance Cabernet, Merlot, and Malbec.

This is Va Piano Vineyards’ seventh offering of its entry level Bruno’s Blend. The wine is named after Father Bruno Segatta. Segatta inspired winemaker Justin Wylie during his time at Gonzaga University, and his paintings adorn the Bruno’s Blend label. This blend is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc with a splash of Syrah thrown in. It is by a good stretch the most impressive Bruno’s Blend yet.

Obelisco Estate first came on the radar with their 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruit for the 2008 Red Wine – a Cabernet predominant Bordeaux-style blend – comes from the winery’s estate vineyard which is in its third year. This thirty acre site on Red Mountain, located next to Hedges Family Estate, is planted to Cabernet, Merlot, and Malbec. Pete Hedges and Sara Goedhart serve as the winery’s winemakers. The 2008 Red Wine is not shy on the oak, which is a mixture of American, French, and Hungarian. The result is a potpourri of spices, char, and dark fruit.

Two other previously reviewed wines that I would also put in this category are the Pamplin Family Winery JRG Red Wine (see review here) and the Maison Bleue Jaja Red Wine (see review here). The Jaja in particular, at $20, is thus far my QPR standout of 2011.

Again, these wines are by no means inexpensive, but nothing like drinking a $35+ tasting wine for a considerably lower price point. Now if we could only find bottles like this in the $15 and under range, but we'll leave that to another day.

Tranche Cellars Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2007 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Pleasing aromatics of black cherry, herbal note, oak spices, and kisses of chocolate. Palate starts off with opulent cherry flavors and then pulls back and sails with velvety tannins. Another top notch effort from this winery. 15.1% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

SYZYGY Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $24
Rating: * (Excellent) This excellent Red Wine from SYZYGY is full of brambly berries, spice, and chocolate. On the palate it is lusciously rich and full of ripe tannins. 50% Syrah, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 11% Malbec. 14.8% alcohol. 948 cases produced.

Va Piano Bruno’s Blend VII Columbia Valley NV $23
Rating: * (Excellent) Earth, herbal notes, raspberries, olives, floral notes. Beautifully expressive wine with graceful fruit flavors and assertive – but still in check – tannins. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Syrah. Aged in 50% new French oak. 14.3% alcohol. 1,000 cases produced.

Obelisco Estate Red Wine Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Roasted coffee bean, dark cherries, toasty oak spices, and light herbal notes. Full of soft, sinewy fruit flavors and sappy oak flavors. 70.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 4.5% Malbec. 13.7% alcohol.

Catching up, a round-up of stories on Washington wine from June 8th to 14th. See previous round-ups here.


From around the country…

Wines & Vines writes about the latest proposed AVAs.

The Wall Street Journal writes about the road to China with thoughs from Butch Milbrandt.

Wine Spectator writes about the aftermath of the November freeze.


From the blogosphere…

Paul Gregutt writes that everything he learned about wining and dining he learned from his cat (not necessarily about Washington too fun of a read to not include).

Wild 4 Washington Wine gives a wine of the week.

Table Talk writes about winning summer whites.

Lucha Vino heads to Lake Chelan.

Wine Peeps writes about Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards.

Write for Wine writes about the Washington Wines Festival.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Lachini Vineyards arrival in Woodinville. Shona also writes about Cougar Crest opening a tasting room in Woodinville.

Washington Wine writes about Zefina Wines.

The Other Paper.com writes about the 2008 Velvet Devil Merlot.

Under the Grape Tree writes about the 2010 Kung Fu Girl Riesling.

Woodinville Patch.com writes about Mark Ryan Winery.


From the locals…

KEPRTV writes about Richland’s quest for a new wine science center.

KOMO News writes about the sale of EB Foote Winery.

The Tri-City Herald writes about William Church.

The Seattle Times writes about the new liquor distribution bill.

The Bellingham Business Journal writes that Masquerade Wine Company is moving to Bellingham.

The Seattle Times writes about Precept shortening its name.

The Herald.net writes about the new distribution bill.

Wenatchee World writes about the Seattle Wine Awards.

The Bellingham Herald writes about rose.


That's all folks!

Since the beginning of the year I have been keeping track of the number of corked bottles of wine I have had versus the number of wines I have tasted. As I have done this I have wondered, what percentage of corked wines is okay?

From the beginning of the year to the end of May I have tasted 425 wines that have used a cork closure and that have not been previously screened by someone else (see below). 12 of these wines have been corked. This equates to a rate of about 3%. This rate has been consistent across the year thus far (Note: The number of corked wines is due to double in next month’s report although the overall percentage of corked wines remains about the same).

Again, for my purposes I am just considering 2,4,6-trichloroanisole or TCA. For folks wondering what TCA smells/tastes like the most frequent descriptions are ‘musty’ or ‘moldy newspaper’ or ‘damp basement.’

An important thing to note, as one reader pointed out, is that wines can still be corked without these hallmark aromas and flavors being detectable. Rather the wine tastes uncharacteristically muted and the flavors ‘stripped’ as the taint is at a low level. This is difficult to detect unless one knows what the wine is supposed to taste like (Note: None of the wines below fell into this category).

Additionally, people’s sensitivity to TCA varies, although it can be improved with training. It is also worth noting that TCA can become more apparent over the course of time as other aromas and flavors fade.

For these reasons I would expect that the 3% number I am finding to be more of a minimum percentage than the actual number. There should be minimal false positives (every corked wine has been confirmed by a second person although I am obviously not testing to confirm the actual presence of TCA) but presumably some false negatives (no idea what this number might be).

So again, what constitutes and acceptable number? Let’s say that percentage of corked wines is 3%. Is that okay? Doing the math, for a wine with 300 cases produced, one would expect to find 108 corked bottles. For a wine with 500 cases produced the result is a shocking 180 bottles. I give these numbers because so many Washington wineries make wines at these production levels.

Clearly wineries have varying beliefs on what an acceptable percentage is. Some pay more money for more expensive cork and buy lots of cork that have been tested multiple times for TCA. Some use alternative closures, which are generally more expensive because they believe it is worth the cost.

We know that, when using a cork closure, some percentage of wines will be corked. What percentage is okay and what percentage is too much?


Note: To try to make the count as accurate as possible I have: only included wines that I have personally checked, meaning that they hadn't already been screened by someone else; and only included wines that used cork as a closure (excluding synthetic corks, glass stoppers, and screw caps).

Folks, apologies for going dark. After suffering through April allergies - in June - and the loss of my closest family friend, I arrived back in Seattle last weekend and promptly set out to catch up on wine tasting and blogging. It was not to be. My computer imbibed a bottle of Riesling - not even a good one! - which I must note sounds a little bit like the dog ate my homework. This led to numerous interactions with so-called geniuses at the Apple store. Several PCs worth of repairs and a distinct lack of customer service later (is it just me or is Apple slowly becoming everything PC people once despised?), my computer is back in my hands and a safe distance away from any wine bottles. Back in action next week. Enjoy the weekend.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from June 1^st to 7^th. Read previous round-ups here.


From around the country…

CNNMoney writes about Dunham Cellars.

Delta Style writes about the Red Decadence Dark Chocolate and Pacific Rim’s Columbia Valley Riesling.


From the blogosphere…

Paul Gregutt writes about Cabernet. He also asks whether wine should be as safe as milk.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about the 2008 Barnard Griffin Ciel du Cheval Merlot. He also writes about Revelry on Red Mountain.

Lucha Vino does a Washington/France Syrah head to head.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about upcoming events. Shona also writes about Willows Lodge being acquired by Benchmark Hospitality.

Wine Peeps writes about Champoux Vineyard. They also write about upcoming events.

Sips & The City writes about Wine Rocks.

Write for Wine writes about Chateau Ste. Michelle’s summer concert series.

Nectar Tasting Room & Wine Blog writes about Spokane wine events in June.

First Pour Wine writes about the 2008 The Manhattan Project Cabernet Sauvignon.

Woodinville Patch writes about alternative closures.

Wine & Beer of Washington State writes about Wine Rocks.

Fruit Growers News writes about Desert Wind Winery.

Pairing it Up tries Zerba Cellars Wild Z with BBQ Pizza.


From the locals…

Wine Press NW writes about the2011 Seattle Wine Awards.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about the Ancient Lakes area.

The Herald writes about vacationing near home with a shoutout to Woodinville.

The Tri-City Herald writes about Saint Laurent.

Pacific Northwest Inlander writes about Vintage Spokane.

Seattle Magazine writes about Urban Enoteca.

The Issaquah Press writes that Starbucks will begin offering beer and wine at its Issaquah location.

The Wenatchee Business Journal writes about the Seattle Wine Awards.

Whatcom Magazine writes about Dusted Valley.

The Puget Sound Business Journal writes that the Sheraton Seattle now has wine on tap.

KEPRTV writes about Richland's quest for a new science center.


That's all folks!

June's Virtual Tasting will be Thursday June 30th from 7-8pm Pacific. The wine is the 2009 Saviah Cellars The Jack Red Wine. This wine retails for $18 and is widely available.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery

2. Post your comments/tweets on the wine between 7 and 8pm. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport. I will be using the hashtag #Saviah during the event.

Hope you will join us!

I’m always interested to see the myriad of shipping materials wineries and retailers use to pack up wine and ship it off to consumers.

Most common from what I have seen in Washington is the molded fiber shipper, often made out of post-consumer recycled paper. These shippers come in a variety of different shapes and sizes for one bottle, two, or three bottles. The three bottle ones can be combined to make six and twelve bottle boxes.

The bottles are generally laying on their side, although there is a six and twelve bottle variant with the bottles standing upright. There are also ones that come in a clamshell design for one and two bottles. My personal favorite in this style is the two bottle shippers that have what look like hearts by the neck of the bottle – perfect for Valentine’s Day wine shipments (or that bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape).

One of the benefits of this type of shipping material from a winery perspective is that they are easily stackable. They are also recyclable and biodegradable. There are a couple different companies that provide this style, which probably accounts for two thirds or more of the shippers that I see.

A distant second in terms of popularity is similar except that the shippers are made of plastic instead of paper. These also come in a similar range of sizes and are also stackable. They are recyclable but not biodegradable.

After this there are a limited number of other shippers that I see used here. There are ones entirely made of cardboard where you can pull tabs out to secure the wine bottles. I see these pretty rarely. I’ve received the occasional bottle in bubble wrap (!) and in a box of peanuts. I’ve received some free floating in a box!

Less frequently these days I see various forms of Styrofoam containers. These have the advantage that they offer insulation. This can be especially important when shipping during warmer parts of the year (many wineries do not ship during the warmest and coldest parts of the year). However, they have the disadvantage of being difficult to recycle. Seattle, for example, does not recycle Styrofoam, although there are private businesses with drop off centers located in various places outside of the city.

The recyclability of shippers certainly is important. Whenever I receive a large number of wine shipments and break down the boxes, pile them up, and stack up all of the shipping material, it is impossible not to think about the environmental impact of it all - not to mention the glass bottles themselves and other impacts associated with shipping.

No idea on the various costs associated with each of the various options. Feel free to chime in if you do or if you have thoughts on shippers from a winery or consumer perspective.

A round-up of stories in Washington wine from May 22nd to 31st. See previous round-ups here.


From around the country…

D Magazine writes about Domaine Serene.

The Phoenix News Times says to keep an eye out for Washington wine.

The Miami Herald writes about Willows Lodge.


From the blogosphere…

Paul Gregutt writes about best Washington buys of the month. He also writes about modern wines for modern palates, and his top ten Washington wines of the month.

Eater.com writes about Washington State.

Sips & The City writes about Spring Release Weekend in Walla Walla.

WoodinvillePatch.com writes about Tenor Wines.

Nectar Tasting Room & Wine Blog writes about Chardonnay Day.

Wine Peeps writes about Rachel Horn of AniChe Cellars. They also write about the 2008 Three Rivers Riesling, and Shuttle Express.

The Pour Fool writes about Robert Ramsay.

Lucha Vino does a Washington and Italian Barbera head to head. See a Primitivo head to head here.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Silver Lake.

Write for Wine writes about Efeste.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Trouvaille Winery. Shona also writes about Woodinville Wine Country’s new president, and the Seattle Wine Awards.

WINO Magazine writes about Vinyl Wines.


From the locals…

Oregon Live! gives a spring guide to the Columbia Gorge. They also give a spring guide to Walla Walla, and the Horse Heaven Hills

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about Rulo.

The Tri-City Herald writes about things to do on staycations.

The Seattle Times writes about Lachini Vineyards opening a tasting room in Woodinville.

The News Tribune writes about Northwest Vintage Wine Bar.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Bergevin Lane.

OPB News writes about the chilly spring.

MyNorthwest.com says Bill Foley is done buying Washington wineries.

East Oregonian writes about the drive on Highway 11.

KNDO writes about Memorial Day weekend in Yakima Valley.

Whatcom Magazine writes about Canon del Sol.


That's all folks!

The following post is written by Carrie Simon. Simon is the founder of Washington Wine 9, a custom trip planning service for travelers to Washington State's wine country.

Have you spent time in the Yakima Valley? I know for many visitors, this portion of Washington's wine country presents a challenge. Even locals admit the extended Yakima Valley lacks some of the tourism infrastructure that beckons people to Walla Walla – particularly destination restaurants and noteworthy accommodations. But that doesn’t mean that some of those places don’t exist. It just helps to know the area to be able to piece it together.

While there are a few notable restaurants sprinkled throughout the Yakima Valley, one of the area’s charms is uncovering some of the authentic Mexican restaurants Yakima is famous for. Early on, I was told by locals that Taco Loco was a must visit. From the street, one might mistake Taco Loco for just another fast food bomb. But when I walked in, and heard all the banter between the owner and customers, I knew there were a lot of faithful Taco Loco customers in town.

After my first bite, the reason became obvious. If I could transfer the taste of the taco de carnitas de puerco (pork) over this blog, you would get in your car and drive across the pass; you might even hop on a plane. It was that good. Tender to the point it was almost buttery. But it wasn’t. It was just perfect.

Another must is Los Hernandez. Just outside of Yakima in Union Gap, it is nationally famous even featured in Sunset magazine for its hand-made tamales. This family-owned operation turns out more than 60-80 dozen tamales a day (remember, all hand-made). I was lucky enough to arrive in the midst of asparagus season – for a few months each year they make a unique asparagus and pepperjack cheese tamale. It flies out of the kitchen. While the filling was tasty, the delicate masa crumbles in your mouth and is the true star of the show.

Apart from the valley’s food offerings, there are abundant “extracurricular activities” (if the curriculum is wine tasting) going on all the time. Below are just a few of my favorites that occur regularly throughout the high season

Horseback Winery Tours: Have you ever? Cherrywood Bed Breakfast and Barn hosts these rides through the vineyards in Zillah with stops at various wineries and a picnic lunch along the way. What better way to soak up the sun?

Sunday Supper at Wine o’Clock: Located in Prosser, Wine o’Clock serves seasonal, local fare for lunch all week long and dinner on weekends until 8:00 pm, but on the first Sunday each month they host family-style dinners. More food for all! And at Wine o’Clock, the more the better!

Vineyard Tour at Terra Blanca: each weekend Terra Blanca Winery hosts three 90 minute walking tours through their estate vineyard, offering participants a brief education in viticulture, Red Mountain geology, winemaking and more. (Yes, wine tasting is included.) In addition to all that you’ll learn, you’ll see their unique wine cave, too.

Live Music at J Bookwalter: 4 nights a week, Wednesday – Saturday, J Bookwalter Winery in Richland hosts local musicians – on their outdoor patio, weather permitting -and serves a selection of charcuterie, cheese and wine, of course. It is a place where locals and visitors come together and share a dance!

Maybe you spend the weekend in the Yakima Valley, maybe it’s just a stop. But don’t forget about it. It’s the real deal – an authentic experience full of people who are passionate about what they’re doing.

Below is a summary of posts for May 2011.

Summary of Posts for April 2011

Washington Wine Round-up April 22nd to 30th 2011

Fresh Sheet May 5th 2011

May Virtual Tasting - 2009 Pacific Rim Riesling

Washington Wine Round-up May 1st to May 7th 2011

Putting pieces of the puzzle together at Januik and Novelty Hill

Fresh Sheet May 11th 2011

Charlie Hoppes – Fidelitas’ whirlwind winemaker

An inconvenient truth about spring in Seattle: 2010 Rose Roundup

Washington Wine Round-up May 8th to 14th 2011

Merlot strikes back!

Pamplin Family Winery - The joy of discovery

Old school! Recent print articles

Unsung wineries - Woodinville Wine Cellars

Washington Wine Round-up May 15th to 21st 2011

Skylite Cellars – One family learns the true meaning of ‘investment’

Tonight! May Virtual Tasting - 2009 Pacific Rim Riesling

May's Five Wines Under $15