Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report Note: Site has moved to www.northwestwinereport.com

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

Chenin Blanc is a rare beast in Washington. The grape was once widely planted but a mere 233 acres remained as of 2010. Interestingly though, many of the remaining vines date back decades.

Such is the case with Hestia Cellars 2009 Chenin Blanc. This wine hails from Andrews Ranch Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills from vines planted more than thirty years ago. The result is a very pretty, nuanced wine with layers of complexity. Look for an upcoming article on Chenin in the July/August edition of edibleSeattle.

Finding Chardonnay under $15 can be a tricky venture as one never knows if they’ll find an oak-chipped, buttery beast or something leaner and more nuanced in style. Barnard Griffin’s Tulip Series Chardonnay is in the latter category and is an extremely enjoyable wine at this price point.

Wines labeled as ‘sweet’ makes some swoon and other recoil. Clearly there is a market for sweet wines. To wit, this is Pacific Rim’s largest production wine at 90,000 cases. Unfortunately though for many people sweet wines have gotten a bad name due to the numerous, cloying white wines that are heavy on sugar and low on acid.

The 2009 Pacific Rim Sweet Riesling is about as far as you can get from that wine. Though clocking in at 8.4% Residual Sugar - and a mere 9% alcohol - the acidity more than keeps the sugar in check here. The result is a thoroughly delicious wine that makes for a perfect pairing with spicy food. It is a steal at $11.

A Washington Malbec under $15 is completely unheard of. In fact, I do not know of another outside of this wine. Malbec is consistently Washington’s most expensive grape at about $1,600 per ton in 2010. Most of the resulting varietally labeled wines have price points of $30 and up. Here Hudson Shah – part of Woodhouse Wine Estates – offers a bottle that comes in at a mere $12. Though not a prototypic Washington Malbec, it is an enjoyable red wine and the price is right.

The Envious Winemakers Woodinville White is a companion wine to the popular Woodinville Red. This non-vintage wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris.

See previous Five Under $15s here.

Hestia Cellars Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley 2009 $15
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale golden color. Leesy aromas along with straw, nectarine, and lemon. Palate has a weighted, textured feel with layers of complexity. Sample provided by winery. Andrews Ranch Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 13% alcohol. 450 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Barnard Griffin Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $14
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) A moderately aromatic wine with spice, lemon, apple, and melon notes. The palate is crisp and tart with a rounded mouthfeel. Apple notes linger on the finish.

Pacific Rim Sweet Riesling Columbia Valley 2009 $11
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatic wine with floral notes, honey, red apple, jasmine, and tropical fruit. The palate is rich with fruit and sugar, beautifully accented by acidity. Walks the balance beam almost perfectly. Residual Sugar 8.4%, pH 2.97, TA: 0.78. 9% alcohol. 90,000 cases produced.

Hudson Shah Malbec Wahluke Slope 2008 $12
Rating: . (Decent) Light in color. A moderately aromatic wine with spice, cherry, and plum. The palate is light bodied with abundant tart cherry flavors. Not a prototypical Washington Malbec but a pleasing wine and the price is right. 100% Malbec. Konnowack Vineyard. Aged 18 months in French oak (45% new). 14.8% alcohol. 840 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Envious Winemakers Woodinville White Table Wine Columbia Valley NV $13
Rating: . (Decent) Abundant pear, apple, and light tropical fruit notes. On the palate, a mix of lemon and lime flavors. Alcohol shows through at times. 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Pinot Gris. 14.0% alcohol.

The May Virtual Tasting will be tonight from 7-8pm Pacific. The wine is the 2009 Pacific Rim Columbia Valley Riesling. This wine retails for $12 and is widely available. If you can't find this wine - or prefer another style - feel free to grab any of the Pacific Rim wines and join in (Note: Some may see the 2010 on the shelves).

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery

2. Post your comments/tweets on the wine between 7 and 8pm. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport. I will be using the hashtag #rieslingrules during the event.

Hope you will join us!

Reminder: This month's Virtual Tasting takes place Wednesday the 25th at 7-8pm Pacific Time. Read more about it here.

Skylite Cellars is located a short distance from downtown Walla Walla, just off Highway 12. The winery is one of a number to suddenly find itself off the beaten path when the highway moved in 2010.

Cheryl Hodgins and her family first became interested in wine in 1990 when they fell in love with the wines of Walla Walla Vintners. In 1999 the family decided to go in with a group of investors in Ash Hollow Vineyard. A year later, Hodgins’ father planted a small “hobby” vineyard.

The winery itself started almost organically. Hodgins says, “My father and husband, Tom, wanted to bottle 'family use' wines from the new little vineyard. But we were bitten by the bug.” For Tom starting the winery was “an investment,” Hodgins says. “Did we ever learn the hard way,” she adds wryly.

The family soon learned that winemaking wasn’t easy. “Cecil Zerba, a childhood friend, and Robert Smasne, young genius, led Tom and I by the hand as we worked our way out of a very bad start!” she says. Robert Smasne has continued to make the wines since the 2004 vintage.

Skylite Cellars gets its name from the family’s art and object gallery in downtown Walla Walla. The family purchased the historic building and subsequently discovered 100-year-old skylights during renovation. Skylite Gallery was born. As the vineyard and winery came on-line, both were given the Skylite name. “There are no sky lights in the cellar, but that did not influence Tom and Dad one little bit,” Hodgins says.

Skylite gets its fruit from Riverrock, Skylite, Upland, Minnick, BellaTerra, and Pepper Bridge vineyards. In terms of style Hodgins says, “(It’s) the style of wine we prefer to put on our table.” She adds with an ever-present sense of humor, “It made sense to craft wines that our friends and family could enjoy for years to come. After all, they may have been our only customers!”

From the beginning, the family has looked to keep the winery small. In addition to maintaining quality, there were practical reasons as well. “We both already had two full-time jobs!” Hodgins says of her and her husband (who works in radio). The winery produces approximately 2,000 cases annually.

Why add another ball to juggle? “Nothing compares to seeing a smile of approval when wine lovers try our nectar,” Hodgins says.

Skylite Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007 $28
Rating: + (Good) Extremely dark in color. Abundant cocoa powder, jalapeno pepper, herbal notes, coconut shavings, vanilla, and dark cherries. The palate is rich, thick, and tart with abundant vanilla and coconut notes on the finish. Aged in 100% new American oak. 14.0% alcohol. 13.9% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Skylite Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Walla Walla Valley 2007 $47
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Extremely dark in color. Cocoa, licorice, ground cherries, shaved coconut, and black tea on a moderately aromatic wine that also shows light pickling spice. The palate is rich and tart with a lingering finish full of coconut and medicine cabinet notes. 13.5% alcohol. 13.9% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Skylite Cellars Reserve Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $47
Rating: + (Good) Stains the glass. A toasty top note along with abundant peppercorns, green notes, coconut, and cocoa. Palate is tart and dry with lingering coconut flavors. 51% Malbec, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Carmenere. 13.9% alcohol. 13.9% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Skylite Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2006 $28
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Abundant char, roasted nuts, and chocolate notes along with cherries, pink peppercorn, and light toasted marshmallow. Palate shows abundant pink peppercorn and spice. 100% Syrah (58% Minnick Hills, 42% Ash Hollow). 13.9% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Reminder: This month's Virtual Tasting takes place Wednesday the 25th at 7-8pm Pacific Time. Read more about it here.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from May 15th to 21st. See previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

The Washington Post writes about Aligote with a callout to Jed Steele.

Market Watch writes about Bill Foley going on a shopping spree (brief mention of Washington).


From the blogosphere…

AgInfo.net checks in on the wine grapes.

Paul Gregutt writes about when to spit – and when not to. He also writes about what your tasting room host really wants to tell you and liquor privatization.

Table Talk writes about Rose.

Woodinville Wine Update gives upcoming Woodinville events.

Lucha Vino does a Washington v Napa head to head.

Sips & The City writes about Wine Rocks.

Nectar Tasting Room & Wine Blog writes about five things not to do wine while tasting.

Wine Peeps writes about Dusted Valley.

Under the Grape Tree writes about Stonecap and Goose Ridge.

Write for Wine says summer is around the corner.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about the Badger Mountain Chardonnay.


From the locals…

The Coeur D’Alene Press writes about ‘old timers’ of the Pacific Northwest with a shout out to Mercer Estates.

The Walla Walla Union-Bulletin writes about the Walla Walla Wine Alliance’s new director (Note: requires subscription).

KNDO writes about Milton-Freewater, a city that has gone to the frogs.

Seattlest writes about Figgins.

The Bellingham Herald writes about domestic chardonnay.

East Oregonian writes about L’Ecole No 41’s redesigned label.


That's all folks!

Woodinville Wine Cellars is one of Washington’s unsung wineries – one that consistently produces high quality wine yet remains largely below the radar.

The winery was founded by Stan Barrett. Barrett is President and CEO of Art Culinaire, sole US distributor for Lacanche professional cooking ranges. Several of these ranges are in use at the winery, which places a premium on the experience of wine, food, and the family table.

The facility, which was previously used for Silver Lake’s sparkling production, was initially a co-op for a group that is now a who’s who of Woodinville, including Mark Ryan, Gorman, and Stevens. Woodinville Wine Cellars was initially one of those wineries and had its first release in the 2002 vintage.

Winemaker Sean Boyd started out in the wine business working at a wine shop in California. From there he traveled the globe working at wineries in such far flung places as Spain, Portugal, and Australia before finally settling in Washington.

Boyd’s work in Australia included a stint at Penfolds under winemaker Daryl Groom. “I went there in 1991 and got the wine bug bad,” he says. Of working at Penfolds Boyd says, “It was harder than I’ve ever worked in my life.”

After moving to Washington Boyd worked for a number of years at Pete’s Wine Shop in Bellevue. He began working at Woodinville Wine Cellars part-time in 2002 as assistant winemaker. He was hired full-time in 2005.

All of Boyd’s wines at Woodinville Wine Cellars have a distinctive style with cedar and black tea notes and tart, intense, lingering fruit flavors. Each of the wines harkens to Bordeaux more so than many found in Washington. All boast excellent aging potential.

While the winery itself is located in an office park, the setting is considerably more scenic than most in the area. Little Bear Creek gurgles by outside the winery and a lawn with picnic tables is an ideal place to enjoy a glass or two on a summer day.

Woodinville Wine Cellars makes 3,500 cases annually.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) Very pretty aromas of spice, pear, tropical fruit, and apple. Tart and clean with an acidic kick and a full mouthfeel. Artz (60%) and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged in stainless steel (75%) and French oak. Aged 1 month sur lee. 13.9% alcohol. 600 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Little Bear Creek Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $20
Rating: + (Good) Appealing aromas of pepper, spice, and high toned black cherry on a wine that calls out to Bordeaux. The palate is full of chewy fruit, tea leaves, and spice. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. Stillwater Creek, Conner Lee, Meek, and Dineen vineyards. Aged 21 months in French oak (60% new). 14.5% alcohol. 549 cases produced. Recommended.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Brilliantly colored with a glass staining purple tinge. Very pretty notes of vanilla, smoke, black tea, char, cherry, and a whiff of licorice. A tacky feeling wine with a tart crispness. A persistent finish. 100% Syrah. Stillwater Creek, Chandler Reach, and Dineen vineyards. Aged 21 months in French oak (100% new). 14.8% alcohol. 167 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Indomitable Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Alluring aromas of licorice, black tea, black cherry, vanilla, and spice on a wine to linger over. A beautifully understated wine that is restrained and elegant with pure, intense, chewy fruit flavors. Beautifully balanced with a thirty-plus second finish. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 11% Malbec. Conner Lee and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 22 months in French oak (78% new). 14.3% alcohol. 220 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Compelling aromas of black tea leaves, mocha, black cherry, and bright, penetrating aromas of licorice and cedar. Breathtakingly beautiful on the palate with winding cranberry flavors, puckering acidity, intense fruit flavors, and graceful tannins. An extended finish with lingering spice notes. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stillwater Creek (50%), Conner Lee (25%), and Dineen (25%). Aged 26 months in French oak (100% new). 14.5% alcohol. 100 cases produced.

Woodinville Wine Cellars O.M.O Odd Man Out Red Will Stillwater Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $36
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Stains the glass. Bright aromas of cedar, spice, light green notes, berries, and toasty spice. A big, rich, tannic wine with abundant cherry fruit flavors and a zing of acidity. A long finish with abundant spice notes. 67% Petite Verdot, 33% Malbec. Aged 22 months in French oak (100% new). 14.8% alcohol. 76 cases produced.

Fellow Washington wine lovers, the May/June edition of edibleSeattle contains an article I wrote titled 'Integral Parts: The Land and Family of Syncline Winery.' Also, the current edition of Wine & Jazz Magazine contains the article 'Columbia Gorge: A hidden gem straddling the Washington and Oregon border.'

Note that both of these articles are only available in print. Old school I know, but who doesn't love the feel of pages in their hands? See a list of locations to find edibleSeattle here. Enjoy!

Wines like the Pamplin Family Winery JRG Red Wine are part of what makes drinking wine so exciting – the joy of discovery.

Robert Pamplin Jr. founded Pamplin Family Winery in 2007 in Dundee, Oregon with the goal of “making the best Bordeaux varietal wines from the Pacific Northwest.” While this may seem an audacious goal, Pamplin’s life is nothing if not marked by success and accomplishment.

Born in August, Georgia, Pamplin seems to have lived many lives rolled into one. Pamplin’s resume is as long as it is diverse. He holds three Bachelors degrees (Business and Administration, Accounting, and Economics), an MBA, a Master of Education, a Ph.D. in Business Administration, and a Doctor of Ministry.

Pamplin’s business experience is equally long. He is Chairman, President and CEO of R.B. Pamplin Corporation, which oversees milling, mining, media, and other interests. His Columbia Empire Farms focuses on berries, hazelnuts, alfalfa, and cattle. He was founder and senior pastor of Christ Community Church in Newberg, Oregon (he has since retired). His foundation owns Pamplin Historical Park in Virginia. His 13 books include One Who Believed and A Portrait of Colorado. Did I mention that he holds a black belt in Kempo Karate? You get the picture.

Pamplin started out in the wine business in 1997 purchasing Oregon’s Chateau Benoit. The winery was subsequently renamed Anne Amie Vineyards after Pamplin’s two daughters. This winery focuses on Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.

With an interest in founding a separate winery focused on Bordeaux blends, Pamplin looked to the vineyards of Washington State. For its wines, Pamplin Family uses top sources including Klipsun, Seven Hills, Canoe Ridge Estate, and Wallula for the 2008 vintage. The winery has since added Ciel du Cheval, Tapteil, Champoux, and Alder Ridge.

Robert Henry serves as Pamplin’s winemaker. Henry started out as a research chemist in the pharmaceutical industry before a career change brought him to the world of wine. His first job was as a cellar rat at Virginia’s Horton Vineyards. After studying viticulture and plant science at Fresno State, Henry went on to work for six and a half years at Pahlmeyer Winery as assistant winemaker before joining Pamplin.

Art North, Pamplin’s son-in-law, says of the winery, “We are, first and foremost, wine enthusiasts. As a result, we approach winemaking from a consumer perspective – handcrafting wines for true wine fans, not from a business-directed approach with specified annual production goals.” Indeed, Pamplin’s production is microscopic. 370 total cases were produced in 2008, the winery’s second vintage.

Pamplin makes two wines, a Proprietary Red Wine, which is released in the fall, and a JRG Red Wine – reviewed below. The JRG is named in tribute to Pamplin’s three grandson’s Justin, Robert, and Grant.

North says one of the winery’s goals is to, “over deliver on quality for the given price point.” With the 2008 JRG Red Wine, the winery surely succeeds. The 2008 JRG is one of the more attention getting wines I have tasted this year, not for it’s brashness or brawn, but for its subtlety. The fruit flavors are soft and textured. The oak is pleasantly restrained. The result is a thoroughly delicious, sophisticated wine.

You never know what you’re going to find when you open a bottle of wine from a winery you are unfamiliar with. Coming across wines like this is one of the things I look forward to most.

Pamplin Family Winery JRG Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. A pleasingly aromatic wine marked by brioche, plum, black cherry, wood spice, and incense. Palate is medium bodied with tart, focused cherry fruit flavors that linger on a long finish. An impressively throttled back wine. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 14% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot. Seven Hills, Klipsun, Canoe Ridge and Wallula vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak (46% new). 14.7% alcohol. 205 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

In 2004 the movie Sideways seemingly dealt a deathblow to Merlot for a generation of wine drinkers. In the movie, the character Myles famously states, “If anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any f#!ing Merlot!” Merlot sales subsequently dropped and Pinot Noir, the character’s preferred wine, correspondingly rose.

Why did Myles malign merlot? With good reason. Merlot, especially when made cheaply and at high volume, can be light, fruity and inoffensive – but also entirely uninteresting. There are millions of gallons Merlot made in a style that is essentially a red wine for white wine drinkers.

Washington State was not immune from the so-called ‘Sideways effect.’ For many years Merlot was the grape that Washington was looking to hang its hat on. Washington Merlot is a different beast than that found to the south in California. Here the grape can be as tannic if not more tannic than Cabernet Sauvignon while retaining the fresh red fruit flavors the grape is known for.

As Washington looked to establish an identity for itself around a particular varietal, Merlot seemed an obvious choice. Once things went Sideways, the search for a signature varietal continued.

Although most say the Sideways effect was temporary in terms of sales, Merlot still has a big hill to climb to get back to respectability. Consumers now think they aren’t supposed to like Merlot, otherwise they are unsophisticated. To wit, I have repeatedly blind tasted out-of-town friends on Washington State Merlot. They have in almost all cases thought that the wine was Cabernet Sauvignon (a cool grape) and liked it – until I told them that it was Merlot (a not so cool grape). Then their enjoyment suddenly waned.

With a lot of mediocre wine out there on the shelves, the only way for Merlot to make a comeback in Washington and elsewhere is for the wines themselves to change people’s minds one bottle at a time. The 2007 Merlot releases from Northstar Winery seem destined to do just that.

Northstar is part of Ste Michelle Wine Estates’ ‘string of pearls.’ The winery was founded in 1994 with the goal of creating the world’s best Merlot. While the winery has had numerous successful and critically acclaimed vintages, the 2007 vintage wines perhaps reach the closest to these aspirations.

2007 was a spectacular vintage in Washington State where all of the elements lined up to produce top quality Merlot. The weather was hot and even and the growing season was long. In addition to exceptional growing conditions, several changes were made at Northstar that also seem to have improved the resulting wines.

This was the first vintage Northstar used a sorting table, which winemaker David Merfeld said both cleaned up the fruit and allowed him to do whole berry fermentation on 40-60% of the grapes. Merfeld also dialed back the oak and kept the fermentation temperatures a bit lower with the goal of softening up the tannins.

Northstar makes two Merlot bottlings each year – one from the Columbia Valley and one from the Walla Walla Valley. Merfeld describes these wines as, “two different animals.” The Columbia Valley offering is designed to be more crisp and dense, the Walla Walla Valley wine more sleek and seductive.

For each wine, Northstar gets the pick of the litter from Chateau Ste. Michelle’s extensive vineyard sources. The Columbia Valley Merlot comes from 14 separate vineyards and 18 different blocks within these vineyards. The 2007 Walla Walla Valley offering includes Merlot from Anna Marie Vineyard, near Seven Hills, and Loess, one of Leonetti’s estate vineyards.

Northstar always tries to walk a balance beam between the here-and-now crowd and those looking for long-term cellar potential. Merfeld says, “I think we nailed it in 2007.”

Nail it the winery did. These are not your mother’s Merlots. The 2007 Northstar Merlots are both muscular, opulent, hedonistic wines, showing extremely well now but promising to thrive for many years in the cellar. The Walla Walla Valley offering in particular is a stunner that is bound to change a lot of minds about Merlot. The integration of tannins in these wines is exceptional. Both are about as good as it gets from Washington - or anywhere else for that matter. Taken together with other top offerings from around the state, they are proof positive that Washington Merlot at its best is simply too good to ignore.

Northstar Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with incense, cherry, red currant, black fruit, whiffs of coconut, and mocha. Broad, tart, and lush on the palate with a muscular fruit profile and ripe, well-integrated, fine grained tannins. A deliciously long finish. 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. Aged 18 months in French oak (60% new). 14.7% alcohol. 11,500 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Northstar Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2007 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Leaps from the glass with complex aromas of earth, black tea, black fruit, cranberry, raspberry, licorice, chocolate, spice, incense, and mocha. A thick, dense, muscular wine with rich fruit flavors and exceptionally well-integrated, silky tannins. Capped off by a hyper-extended finish. An exclamation point for the varietal that is bound to change a lot of minds about Merlot. 78% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Petit Verdot. Aged 18 months in French oak (56% new). 14.7% alcohol. 400 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from May 8th to 14th. See previous round-ups here.


From around the country…

The New York Times writes about Myles Anderson sharing Walla Walla Vintners wine with hikers in the Rogue River area.

The Pensacola News Journal says that its time for haters to stop hating Chardonnay with a callout to Janiuk’s 2008 Cold Creek Chardonnay.


From the blogosphere…

AgInfo.net writes about marketing Washington wine. Read part I here.

Kirkland Patch writes about Jody Elsom of Elsom Cellars.

Paul Gregutt writes about Forgeron Cellars Cabernet.

The Wine Guy writes about Chatter Creek. He also writes about Woodhouse Family Cellars.

AZCentral gives warm weather wine picks with a shout out to Three Rivers’ Sauvignon Blanc.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Bonair.

MyNorthwest.com writes about Guardian Cellars.

Table Talk writes about Walla Walla coming to Woodinville.

Lucha Vino does a head to head of Washington and Italian Sangiovese.

Wine Peeps writes about the 2007 Watermill Merlot. They also write about the 2007 Long Shadows Saggi.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about upcoming Woodinville events.

WINO Magazine writes about Otis Kenyon’s 2007 Matchless Red Wine.

Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog writes about Vintage Spokane.

Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about the Farmers Market wine tasting pilot program.

The Oregon Wine Blog writes about Merry Cellars.

Under the Grape Tree writes about Washington wine. See more here.

Wine TrekkerTV asks why Woodinville?


From the locals…

The Tri-City Herald writes about recession reds. They also write about Washington wineries winning medals at a California wine competition.

The Seattle Times writes about Walla Walla wineries helping a food bank.

Edible Seattle writes about wineries worth watching. Seattleite Magazine says ‘Hello Portland. Meet Washington Wine.’

Wenatchee World writes about North Central Washington wineries.


Leftovers (posts missed from previous weeks)…

Terroirists write about the Cadaretta SBS.Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Thomas O’Neil Cellars.


That's all folks!

There is an inconvenient truth about spring in western Washington. It’s just not very spring like!

A recent look at the daily temperatures here serves as a case in point: high of 50, low of 46. Day after day after day after day. When I asked a friend recently what the next day’s weather was going to be he said, “Raining but it’s supposed to be warmer!” with hopeful anticipation.

Rather than cloudy and overcast with a chance of rain the forecast should just say “Dreary” with an unhappy face. The weather people should all be given nine month furloughs - really.

There is the occasional sign that warmer weather is on the way. One is the beautiful, fleeting emergence of the cherry blossoms. This is, of course, before the rain mercilessly knocks the flowers to the ground like so much confetti. Another is wine store shelves lined with rosé.

To me, the release of rosé always seems like a cruel joke. It is akin to clothing stores selling shorts in the midst of February. Who wants to buy rosé when the heat is still on and the fleece is still out?

Somebody does. But who are these people?

Sure as you’re born, most of the rosé is snapped up long before the weather calls for it. Perhaps there is a mulled rosé recipe somewhere that I am unfamiliar with?

Personally, I tend to think that it is a sign of western Washington’s desperation at this time of year. People think that if perhaps they stock up on enough warm weather wine, friendlier temperatures must surely follow. Poor souls. They have lived here too long. Their brains are permanently rain-soaked.

So here we are in spring 2011 with the weather cold and rainy and a new vintage of Washington rosé upon us, destined to disappear in the blink of an eye.

Before delving into the particulars, let me first say a few words about rosé. Rosé can be made from most any grape. This is not to say, however, that it should be made from any grape. A recent experience on a tasting panel at the Seattle Wine Awards serves as a case in point. Among a flight of somewhat depressing wines was a Cabernet Sauvignon rosé and a Merlot rosé. Yuck and yuck. Another rosé was even oaked. Yuck!

What’s the deal?

There are different ways of making rosé. One is called the saignee method where a winemaker takes the fermenting juice and bleeds some off to make rosé. This has the dual effect of creating immediate cash flow and also concentrating the remaining fermenting must which will be turned into red wine. This is why one often sees rosés with alcohol levels of 14.5 to 15 percent (yuck) similar to the final alcohol of the red wine it is made from. It is also why one sees grapes that are not traditionally used for rosé, such as the aforementioned Cabernet and Merlot. The latter would not be so bad if the wines were priced more accordingly. Most often they are not. Another method - less frequently done - is blending some red wine with white wine grapes.

Some grow grapes for the explicit purpose of creating rosé. The picking decisions come a bit earlier to retain freshness and acidity. The winemaking techniques change a bit. While this isn't necessary, for me, the best rosés are often created with the grape growing in mind.

One thing to keep in mind is that rosés can have varying levels of sweetness, with some bone dry and others treacley sweet. This is somewhat of a personal preference depending on whether one is looking for your grandmother’s porch pounder (off-dry to sweet) or a mouthwatering summer sipper (dry). Unfortunately there is usually no way to tell the style from the label so caveat emptor (the wines listed below are all dry with the exception of the Kaella).

Perhaps the most exciting thing about rosé is the rainbow of different colors. Of course rainbows require the sun to see them so please look outside of the Pacific Northwest. Rosés range from copper to salmon, pale pink to strawberry red. Note that the color only speaks to the amount of skin contact and not to how dry or sweet the wine may be. Even the aromas can be deceiving with some showing so much fruit that it seems like the wine must be sweet when in fact it is bone dry.

On to this year’s crop. What follows is a list from what I have sampled this year (more to follow). Of particular note is the 2010 Tranche Cellars Pink Pape, a new offering from this winery and the first wine released from the winery’s estate vineyard, Blue Mountain. Only 168 cases of this Rhone varietal based blend were made so it is destined to be short-lived but is definitely worth seeking out.

Syncline Wine Cellars, who often produces a rosé that I dream about – literally, this year created a wine boasting a healthy dose of Pinot Noir. This would seem a sure sign of last year’s cool and challenging growing season. Wait. Or was that this year?

Let’s be clear. 2010 is gone and warmer days are surely ahead in 2011. So stock up on rosé before the warm weather gets here. Because by then, all of this year’s rosé will surely be gone.

Here’s to warmer times and climes.

Syncline Wine Cellars Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $18
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale salmon colored. A moderately aromatic wine marked by spice, watermelon, strawberry, and sour cherry. Fleshy and full feeling on the palate while retaining extremely crisp acidity on this bone dry offering. This is a red wine drinker’s rose with a level of complexity seldom seen in domestic offerings. 33% Pinot Noir, 17% Grenache, 17% Cinsault, 15% Carignan, 9% Mourvedre, and 9% Counoise. Celilo, Underwood, Milbrandt, McKinley Springs, Coyote Canyon, Alder Ridge, Ciel du Cheval, and Heart of the Hill vineyards.

Tranche Cellars Pink Pape Dry Rosé Walla Walla Valley 2010 $16
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale copper with a touch of salmon. A lightly aromatic wine with faint whiffs of strawberry, spice, and melon. The palate has abundant citrus notes and orange peel flavors. Almost imperceptible (drinks dry) but just the slightest touch of sugar to carry the fruit along and balance out the acidity. Beautifully drawn out with mouthwatering acidity and a lingeringly finish. An extremely enjoyable, well priced wine. 0.8% RS. TA 8.8g/L. 12.9% alcohol. Aged 7 months in stainless steel. 168 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Barnard Griffin Rosé of Sangiovese Washington State 2010 $12
Rating: * (Excellent) Light cherry red in color. An aromatic wine marked by wild strawberries, melon, and spice. Crisp, dry, and clean on a palate loaded with fruit flavors matched by mouthwatering acidity. A perfect summer wine at a can’t-be-beat price. This is a case purchase summer wine if ever there were one. Van Batavia, Balcom & Moe, and Gunkel vineyards. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.4% alcohol.

Waters Winery Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $18
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale salmon color. An aromatic wine with mineral, strawberry, floral notes, and spice. Incredibly tart with delicious, mouthwatering acidity. 65% Syrah, 30% Viognier, and 5% Grenache. Forgotten Hills and Old Stones Estate vineyards. 12.9% alcohol. 240 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Magician’s Assistant Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $17
Rating: + (Good) A very pretty light salmon color. Aromas of strawberry, melon, and light spices. Bone dry on the palate with crisp, incredibly fresh fruit flavors. An extremely enjoyable wine with great acidity. 100% Cabernet Franc. Black Rock and Chelle den Millie vineyards. 13.7% alcohol. Recommended

Fjellene Cellars Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: + (Good) Light cherry red color. Abundant strawberry, cherry, and light bubble gum notes. Crisp and tart with bright acidity with just the suggestion of sugar (0.89 g/L). 100% Syrah. 12.5% alcohol. 100 cases produced.

Trust Cellars Rosé of Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2010 $16
Rating: + (Good) Pale salmon colored. Intriguing aromas of pepper, strawberry, and spice. Palate has mouthwatering acidity and is absolutely loaded with spice – particularly pepper and cumin – on a fascinating flavor profile. 13.2% alcohol.

Vinyl Wines R³ Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: + (Good) Bright pink colored. An aromatic wine with cherries, strawberry, and other red fruit along with bubble gum notes. Palate brings more fruit flavors than are often seen in rose along with well balanced by acidity with just a suggestion of Residual Sugar (0.4) that carries the wine across the palate to the finish. Alcohol shows through at times. 13.3% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Milbrandt Traditions Syrah Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $13
Rating: + (Good) A pretty pale pink color. Aromas of bubble gum, marshmallow, and light strawberry. Very dry and tart on the palate with mouthwatering acidity. 100% Syrah. 12.9% alcohol.

Kaella Winery Rosé of Sangiovese Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2010 $17
Rating: + (Good) A very pretty light cherry red color. Spice, strawberry, sour cherry, and bubble gum aromas rise up from the glass. The palate is off dry and has a full feel with crisp acidity and a spice note on the finish. 13.2%. 1.65% Residual Sugar. 50 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

El Corazon Winery Red Frog Syrah Rosé Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: . (Decent) Pale pink. Aromas of strawberries, cashews, spice, and melon. The palate comes off as fat and fleshy, needing a bit more acidity to hold it together. 14.5% alcohol. 60 cases produced.

Charlie Hoppes (pronounced hop-pas) of Fidelitas Wines is one of Washington’s whirlwind winemakers.

Hoppes first became interested in wine in 1982 while working as an engineer at Boeing. He started out with a winemaking kit. A year later he purchased a batch of Riesling grapes and made wine at his father-in-law’s house. He was hooked.

Hoppes soon changed career directions and headed off to UC Davis, graduating in 1988. At Davis, he would not only learn the ins and outs of winemaking, he would also meet Mike Januik, now of Januik Winery, who would give him his start in the wine industry.

Upon graduation, Hoppes was hired by Januik at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Two years later he became assistant winemaker. By 1993 he was head red winemaker at Washington’s flagship winery. During his time at Ste. Michelle Hoppes put his thumb print on many of the winery’s top wines, including the first vintages of Col Solare.

Hoppes left Chateau Ste. Michelle in 1999 to start his own winery. Fidelitas, named after his father-in-law, Dan Fidelis O’Neill, had its first vintage in 2000. The name is meant to stand for faithfulness, loyalty, and truth. The winery’s logo is an unbroken circle.

While Hoppes got Fidelitas up and running, he also began working at Three Rivers Winery in Walla Walla. This is where the whirlwind starts. Around this time Hoppes was approached by different people about serving as a consulting winemaker. Liking a challenge and not minding the money, Hoppes said yes. Over the years Hoppes has consulted for a long list of wineries including Canon del Sol Winery, Goose Ridge, Ryan Patrick, Saint Laurent, and Gamache Vintners. More recently he has served as consultant for Cooper Wine Company, Hamilton Cellars, and Glencorrie.

Hoppes production across all of these wineries ranges between 15 and 20,000 cases annually, with 7,000 of this Fidelitas (2,000 of that the M100). Hoppes recently purchased a facility in the Tri-Cities to accommodate this level of production.

Fidelitas has a modest but compelling tasting room on Red Mountain (the winery also has a tasting facility at the must-visit Urban Enoteca in Seattle). The facility boasts expansive views of the area, including the winery’s estate vineyard. This three-acre site, which is in its third leaf and is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, was purchased from Washington wine pioneer Stan Clarke. Hoppes says when he first told Clarke that he was interested in buying the property, Clarke was taken aback. “He looked at me like I was crazy!” Hoppes says. Clarke eventually relented and sold the site.

The Fidelitas wines show why Hoppes is in such consistent demand. The winery’s lineup is of extremely high quality across the board – a testament to Hoppes’ skill as a winemaker. The wines include an exceptionally well-priced Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the state’s best Malbec, and compelling expressions of three of Washington’s finest vineyards – Ciel du Cheval, Champoux, and Boushey. All are of the Fidelitas wines are impeccably well balanced and beautifully constructed, displaying a consistent house style of rich fruit accented by silky oak.

Despite having his hand in a number of different wineries in addition to his own, Hoppes continues to exude excitement about his job. “The thing that I enjoy about winemaking, for me, it’s always an experiment,” Hoppes says. No doubt the whirlwind and experimentation will continue for many years to come.

Fidelitas Semillon Columbia Valley 2008 $18
Rating: + (Good) An appealing aroma profile of lemon and spice. Crisp, clean, and tart on the palate with abundant lemon flavors. 100% Semillon. Barrel fermented and aged in neutral French oak. 13.7% alcohol. 556 cases produced.

Fidelitas Optu White Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $30
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of spice, hay, lemon, and citrus. Crisp and tart on the palate with a rounded mouthfeel. Barrel fermented and aged in French oak (30% new). 56% Sauvignon Blanc, 44% Semillon. Gamache and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 8 months sur lies in French oak. 14.8% alcohol. 361 cases produced.

Fidelitas Cabernet Franc Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: * (Excellent) Light herbal notes and cherry on a delicate aroma profile. A beautiful mouthfeel loaded with cherry fruit flavors and chocolate. Hangs on the finish. 100% Cabernet Franc. Red Mountain Vineyard. Aged 22 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.3% alcohol. 40 cases produced.

Fidelitas Malbec Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Compelling aromas of pepper, plum, spice, and black fruit. The palate brings abundant green notes along with pepper, spice, and citric acidity. Consistently among the best Malbec produced in the state. Stillwater Creek Vineyard (29%), Northridge-Milbrandt Vineyard (29%), Goose Ridge (24%) and Conner Lee Vineyard (23%). Aged 20 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.70% alcohol. 344 cases produced.

Fidelitas Merlot Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: * (Excellent) A flagship merlot with red currant, licorice, raspberry, and spice on a wine to linger over. The palate has a dense core of fruit with beautifully integrated tannins. Hangs on and on at the finish. 100% Merlot. Red Mountain Vineyard. Aged 22 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.30% alcohol.

Fidelitas Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Appealing aromatics of light herbal notes, dry chocolate, and spice. The palate is tart and full with black cherry and herbal notes accented by a pleasing acidic kick. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Champoux, Lady Hawk, Weinbau, Conner Lee, and Dineen vineyards. Aged 22 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.4% alcohol. 912 cases produced.

Fidelitas ‘Eight’ Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant high toned herbal notes along with cherry. A big mouthful of cherry fruit along with a solid backbone of tannins. A lingering finish. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Boushey, Champoux, Conner Lee, Latour, Red Mountain, Stillwater, Weinbau, and Windrow vineyards. Aged 24 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.7% alcohol. 190 cases produced.

Fidelitas Optu Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) A compelling aroma profile of char, dark berries, raspberries, and licorice. A rich core of dark fruit accented by oak spices. Huge inner mouth perfume on a prototype of a big, fruit-filled Washington wine. 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 9% Malbec, and 6% Petit Verdot. Weinbau, Champoux, Red Mountain, Conner Lee, and Boushey vineyards. Aged 24 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.9% alcohol. 568 cases produced.

Fidelitas Red Wine Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley 2007 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A unique aroma profile of mineral, earth, licorice, cherry, and roasted nuts. The palate is dense and dark with a lot of finesse, exceptionally well-integrated tannins, and pure black fruit flavors. A thirty-plus second finish. 53% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc. Aged 24 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.6% alcohol. 315 cases produced.

Fidelitas Red Wine Red Mountain 2007 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Spice, high toned raspberries, mineral notes, floral notes, and light licorice on a reserved aroma profile. A dense, dark wine with firm but well integrated tannins. A gorgeously put together wine with a long life ahead of it. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc. Red Mountain Vineyard. Aged 24 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.9% alcohol. 356 cases produced.

Fidelitas Red Wine Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley 2008 $50
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Compelling aromatics of earth, mineral, slate, and raspberries. Dense, firm, and packed with rich fruit flavors. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. Aged 24 months in French and American oak (50% new). 14.8% alcohol. 361 cases produced.

Fidelitas Red Wine Red Mountain 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Floral notes, raspberries, and penetrating red fruit on a compelling aroma profile. A big, dense, but impeccably well balanced wine with abundant cherry and red fruit flavors. An extended finish. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. Red Mountain Vineyard. Aged 24 months in French and American oak. 14.7% alcohol. 241 cases produced.

Fidelitas Merlot Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Aromatics of blueberries, earth, and candied red fruit. A showstopper on the palate on this big, rich wine with earth flavors and firm tannins. Give two years.

Fidelitas Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A compelling, complex wine with char, toast, earth, high toned herbal notes, and an under layer of black cherry. The palate has winding black fruit flavors with herbal accents. The tannins are supple and perfectly integrated. An absolutely beautiful wine worth seeking out. Give two-plus years.

Fidelitas Cabernet Sauvignon Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $55
Rating: * (Excellent) Earth, vanilla, toast, and cherry on a wine that is still quite closed up aromatically. A big, chewy wine with abundant black cherry flavors. Needs time to come into its own but has it.

Today’s Fresh Sheet – new and recent Washington wine releases – includes wines from Matthews Estate, Long Shadows, Covington Cellars, Pondera Winery, and Buried Cane.

Matthew Estate

Matthews Estate, owned by Cliff and Diane Otis and Jim Rubstello, had its first commercial vintage in 1994. The winery is located just north of the Schoolhouse District in Woodinville.

Aryn Morell serves as winemaker. Morell grew up in Bremerton before going on to study chemistry at UNLV. While he originally planned to become a chemical engineer, his brother – a chef in Napa Valley – soon lured him to the world of wine.

Morell started out doing laboratory analysis, ultimately working at Golden State Vintners, Edgewood Estates, and Silver Oak. From there he went on to work for a consulting company that focused on, “solving the world’s wine problems.”

Looking for a change from the constant travel and wanting to return to the Pacific Northwest, Morell was hired on at Matthews in 2007 and assumed the role of winemaker in 2008. Morell also spends a great deal of his time focusing on viticulture at the numerous vineyard blocks the winery works with.

Morell says his focus has been on making wines that are “less forward, more elegant.” Part of this has involved making adjustments in the vineyard to improve tannin management.

Matthews currently makes approximately 4,000 cases annually. The winery recently announced that it was moving its production from Woodinville to eastern Washington with Morell moving into the role of consulting winemaker. Morell’s goal is to be both closer to the vineyards and start a consulting company in the Walla Walla Valley.

Of note, this is the winery’s first vintage of Chardonnay and the second vintage of the Blackboard Red.

Matthews Estate Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley 2009 $20
Rating: * (Excellent) Very pretty varietal aromatics of citrus, gooseberry, and touches of tropical fruit. Tart and refreshing on the palate crisp acidity and abundant citrus flavors. 93% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Semillon. Sagemoor, Stillwater Creek, Frenchman Hills, and Rosebud vineyards. Aged 7 months in 70% stainless, 25% concrete, and 5% barrel. 874 cases produced. Sampled at 58 degrees.

Matthews Estate Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $30
Rating: + (Good) Pale lemon yellow. Delicate aromas of toast, spice, and hay. A nicely etched palate with a textured feel accented by tropical fruit on the finish. 100% Chardonnay. Stillwater Creek Vineyard. Concrete fermented and then 14 months in new French oak. 80% through malolactic fermentation. 61 cases produced. Sampled at 58 degrees.

Matthews Estate Blackboard Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $22
Rating: + (Good) Abundant pepper notes along with high-toned herbal notes, black fruit, licorice, black tea, and spice. Tart with a healthy amount of tannic grip. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 8% Syrah, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1.5% Malbec, and 1.5% Petit Verdot. 52% Horse Heaven Hills, 48% Columbia Valley. Aged 20 months in neutral French oak. 851 cases produced. Recommended

Matthews Estate Claret Columbia Valley 2007 $35
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Dark in color with tinges of red at the rim. Aromas of black fruit, barrel spice, light herbal notes, and licorice. Palate is big and opulent with a firm grip of tannins. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 3% Syrah, and 2% Malbec. Hedges, Klipsun, Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 22 months in French oak (40% new). 14.6% alcohol. 1,330 cases produced.

Matthews Estate Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $39
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color with a purple tinge at the rim. Aromatically elusive and brooding with mineral notes, blackberries, currant, and touches of char. A silky, textured feel to the palate with soft tannins and abundant black fruit flavors. 100% Syrah. Stilllwater Creek, Lawrence, and Va Piano vineyards. Aged 16 months in once used French oak. 14.9% alcohol. 160 cases produced.

Matthews Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $70
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant licorice notes along with black fruit, pencil shavings, and light butterscotch. On the palate, a big, bold grippy example of Cabernet Sauvignon. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Hedges and Stillwater Creek vineyards. Aged 22 months in new French 500L barrel. 49 cases produced.


Long Shadows

Long Shadows is among the more ambitious projects in Washington. The winery, founded by former Stimson Lane CEO Allen Shoup, pairs eight of the world’s top winemakers with Washington State fruit. Each winemaker makes one wine with resident winemaker Gilles Nicault serving as the guiding hand.

In addition to using top vineyard sources Boushey, Alder Ridge, Sagemoor, Stone Tree, and Taptiel, the winery recently purchased Wallula Vineyard. This breathtaking vineyard was subsequently renamed ‘The Benches’ for the twenty-seven benches ranging from 1,400 feet to the base of the Columbia River.

The Chester Kidder is Nicault’s own wine. Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, the wine sees a remarkable 40 days of skin contact during fermentation and is aged for 30 months in oak. The result is a thick, lush, hedonistic wine that – while already five years old – has a long life ahead of it.

The Pedestal is the work of flying winemaker Michel Rolland. The wine is whole berry fermented in massive 1,500-gallon upright wood tanks that were brought over from Bordeaux. The grapes receive extended maceration before being aged for 20 months in mostly new French oak. The result is a wine that displays Rolland’s full throttle style.

Long Shadows Chester-Kidder Red Wine Columbia Valley 2006 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) An intriguing, somewhat subdued aroma profile with brambly berries, black cherry, tobacco and a dusting of chocolate. In contrast, the palate is rich, thick, and lush with tart, tangy fruit flavors and a lingering finish. 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Syrah, 10% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc. Red Mountain, Candy Mountain, Stillwater Creek, 27 Benches, and Weinbau vineyards. Aged 30 months in tight-grained French oak and a limited amount of Hungarian. 14.9% alcohol. 1,689 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Long Shadows Pedestal Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $55
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Very dark in color. Abundant stewed raspberries, dark chocolate, and cigar box along with whiffs of anise. Rich and lush with silky fruit flavors, a creamy texture, and a firm grip on tannins. A lingering, fruit filled finish with a lick of cranberry. This is far from a shy wine and leans to the right side of hedonism. Needs some additional time to show its best. 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Taptiel, Conner Lee, Dionysus, The Benches, and Weinbau vineyards. 14.7% alcohol. 2,005 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.


Covington Cellars

Covington Cellars was founded in 2002 by David and Cindy Lawson as the 19^th winery in Woodinville (the area now has over 80 wineries and tasting rooms). The winery was named after the couple’s hometown of Covington, Washington.

Morgan Lee serves as winemaker. Lee grew up in Michigan and studied hospitality management at Purdue. At Purdue he found himself spending increasing amounts of time at the enology lab. Lee ultimately took a semester off to work at Michigan’s Tabor Hill Winery.

He subsequently interviewed at Columbia Crest for an internship position, bonding with now head winemaker Juan Muñoz Oca about the Argentinean soccer team. Lee packed up and moved to an apartment in Kennewick, Washington site unseen in August of that year.

Lee stayed on at Columbia Crest through the 2006 harvest when he took a position at Covington in 2007. He assumed winemaking responsibilities in 2009.

Reflective of the Lawson’s personal tastes, Covington has always had a strong focus on Sangiovese and Sangiovese blends. However, the standout from the current releases is the 2007 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – as good a wine as Covington has made.

Covington Cellars Sangiovese Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: + (Good) An intriguing aroma profile with burnt embers, dust, leather, sweet spices, and cranberry. Quite tart, juicy, acidic, and light bodied on the palate. Lingers on the finish. An intriguing bottle of a seldom seen varietal and a perfect wine to pair with pizza or pasta. Seven Hills Vineyard. 14% alcohol. 350 cases produced.

Covington Cellars Prima Miscela Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $35
Rating: + (Good) A moderately aromatic wine with earth, cherry, licorice, herbal notes, and spice. Tart and acidic on the palate with a big lick of cranberry flavors on the finish. 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Seven Hills, Kiona, and Klipsun vineyards. 13.9%. 215 cases produced.

Covington Cellars Roughhouse Red Red Wine 2007 $20
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of cherry, raspberry, licorice and spice with an underlayer of chocolate. Bright, tart, and acidic on the palate with chewy tannins. Flattens out a bit toward the finish. 75% Merlot, 10% Syrah, 5% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 14.5% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Recommended

Covington Cellars Starr Red Wine Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $29
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. Smoky aromatics on a wine full of blueberry pie, chocolate, and cooking spices. A rich wine that remains light on its feet with sinewy fruit flavors. 78% Syrah, 22% Sangiovese. 182 cases produced. 14.5% alcohol.

Covington Cellars Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) A moderately aromatic wine marked by milk chocolate, herbal notes, and cherry. Medium-bodied and silky on the palate with plush tannins and spritely acidity. A lingering finish. 100% Cabernet Franc. 75% Olsen, 25% Kiona. 334 cases produced.

Covington Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2007 $45
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Dark in color. An aromatic wine with blueberry syrup, chocolate, and light game notes. Deft on its feet with a lingering, chocolate laden finish. 100% Syrah. Smasne, Kestrel, Kiona, Seven Hills, and Klipsun vineyards. 14.4% alcohol. 93 cases produced.

Covington Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Klipsun Vineyard Red Mountain 2007 $60
Rating: */** (Exceptional) Dark and seductive with aromas of earth, dark fruit, and floral notes with a light herbal accent. Brooding on the palate with dark fruit, dry chocolate, chalky tannins and a lingering, mineral laden finish. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 30 months in French oak.


Pondera Winery

Pondera Winery, named after a Latin word meaning ‘balance,’ is located in Woodinville’s Warehouse District. The winery was founded by Shane Howard.

Howard attributes a Barolo he drank in Paris as his first inspiration, saying “it was the perfect wine at the perfect time with great food.” After reading through books and volunteering at area wineries, Howard started the winery in 2005 with the goal of focusing on Bordeaux varietals.

Pondera sources fruit from Dineen, Conner Lee, Stillwater Creek, and Wallula. Of note, the wines all have an intriguingly tactile label.

Pondera produces 1,200 cases annually.

Pondera Reserve Malbec Columbia Valley 2008 $34
Rating: + (Good) Dark in color with purple at the rim. At first comes off as reductive and then the march of the Malbec aromas come on with peppered plum, whiffs of orange peel, and, interestingly, sliced black olive. Palate has a full feel with a lot of plum flavors, chalky tannins, and a lingering finish. 88% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stillwater Creek Vineyard. 14.5% alcohol. 120 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Pondera Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2008 $28
Rating: + (Good) Starts off with black olive juice followed by herbal notes, green olive, black cherry, and wood spice. A thick, viscous feel to the palate. 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. Dineen Family Vineyards. 14.6% alcohol. 120 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Pondera Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $33
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) A moderately aromatic wine with black cherry, licorice, sliced black olive, and cough syrup. Thick and weighted on the palate with abundant cherry flavors and a lingering finish full of medicine cabinet notes. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Stillwater Creek and Wallula vineyards. 55 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.


Buried Cane

Buried Cane is part of Middleton Family Wines. Middleton is owner of Washington’s Cadaretta as well as California’s Clayhouse and Adobe. The winery is named after the vineyard practice of burying canes to protect them from the cold.

The Middleton family’s roots in Washington date back to 1898 when they started a lumber business in Aberdeen, Washington. In a callout to the family history, the Buried Cane wines have woodcut art on the labels and the wines are named after terms in woodcut printing.

All of the Buried Cane wines are bottled under screw cap at prices both consumer friendly and aimed at restaurant glass pours.

Buried Cane Single Leaf Riesling Columbia Valley 2009 $12
Rating: + (Good) A moderately aromatic wine marked by white peaches, lime, and touches of tropical fruit. Palate is just a tad off dry with a full feel redolent with lime flavors. 100% Riesling. Aged in stainless steel. 12.7% alcohol. 0.70% Residual Sugar. 1,927 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Buried Cane White Line No Oak Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $14
Rating: + (Good) Pale in color with a slight green tinge. A lightly aromatic wine marked by hay and lemon notes. Palate is crisp and clean with green apple flavors, a full mouthfeel, and touches of banana on the finish. An enjoyable, well priced wine. 100% Chardonnay. 95% Arete Vineyard, 5% Champoux vineyard. Aged in stainless steel. 13.3% alcohol. 3,460 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Recommended

Buried Cane Heartwood Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: . (Decent) Toasty aromas of roasted nuts, vanilla, and light red fruit. Palate is tart and soft with an elegant structure and light red fruit flavors. 78% Syrah (Stone Tree, Pepper Bridge, and Wallula vineyards), 10% Grenache (Alder Ridge), 7% Mourvedre (Alder Ridge), 5% Counoise (Alice). 14.1% alcohol. 514 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Buried Cane Roughout Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $14
Rating: . (Decent) An aromatic wine marked by bell pepper, black pepper, tea leaves, and light black cherries. Palate is light bodied with chalky tannins and a slightly sweet feel. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon (Alice, Arete), 23% Merlot (Florence and Virginia, Preston), 2% Syrah (Gamache). 13.4% alcohol. 5,628 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

It’s hard to understate the level of experience that winemaker Mike Januik brings to bear at Januik Winery and Novelty Hill Wines. One off-handed comment on a recent visit sums it up perfectly.

Januik was in the midst of blending trials on the day of my visit. When asked how it was going he said simply, “Well, I’ve been doing this for twenty-seven years.” Far from a boast it was rather a simple statement of fact.

Of course, working such a long period of time is in and of itself not an accomplishment as much as a testament to longevity. However, few in the Washington wine industry can claim the extraordinary level of success that has followed Mike Januik throughout his career.

Januik first became interested in wine as an undergraduate in college. However, he didn’t get to drink very much wine at the time. “I never had any money!” he says with a trademark chuckle. Like many, Januik started off as a home winemaker. Looking back at it now he says, “I made some pretty disgusting stuff, but you have to start somewhere.”

Start somewhere he did, initially working as a backcountry ranger at Diamond Peak and the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. When his wife finished school, the couple moved to Ashland, Oregon and subsequently opened a deli and wine store. When his wife went back to school Januik decided to do the same, setting his sites on UC Davis.

Januik attributes his admission to the prestigious Davis enology and viticulture program as a “testament to being persistent.” He called the school continuously, both expressing his interest and inquiring about his application. Five people were admitted that year. One of them was Mike Januik. “I think the guy said, ‘If I don’t let this guy Januik in he’s going to hound me forever!’” Januik says.

Upon graduating he started working at the now defunct Stewart Vineyards. Of his first winemaking job Januik says, “We talked maybe about ten minutes, and the guy said, ‘You seem okay. You want a job?’ I really had no idea what I was doing.” Perhaps true but more likely is that Januik was then and remains now an extremely modest, down to earth person.

After working at Stewart, Januik went on to work at Langguth (also now defunct) and then Snoqualmie. Snoqualmie was then, and remains now, large by Washington standards, producing about 150,000 cases at the time. However, this would be just a small fraction of what he would go on to produce at Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Januik describes working as head winemaker at Ste. Michelle as a dream job. After ten years though, he decided to strike out and start his own winery. While he says the decision to leave was difficult, his wife was supportive. “She said, ‘When I first met you I never thought you’d have a job this long anywhere!’” Januik says with a chuckle.

Januik started out in 1999 crushing fruit at Waterbrook, where he made his first wines for his winery. That same year he also began consulting for Tom Alberg and Judi Beck on vineyard plantings at Stillwater Creek Vineyard - Novelty Hill's estate vineyard. Januik made Novelty Hill’s first wines a year later and has continued to do so in the ensuing years.

For the first few years after he left Chateau Ste. Michelle, Januik continued to consult for the winery. “I think they thought I was going to end up in the poor house!” Januik says. The Januik/Novelty Hill facility was built in 2007, a stone’s throw from Chateau Ste. Michelle.

From the outside the building is austere, almost imposing. Inside it is spacious, beautiful, and above all highly functional. Januik was intimately involved in the design of the facility and the countless small details that facilitate top quality winemaking.

The facility is controlled by a computerized system that provides a graphical display of each of the winery rooms as well as each fermentation tank. Someone is automatically contacted if any of temperatures get above an acceptable level. Januik can check and adjust temperatures on-line from anywhere in the world. Each room also has its own CO2 sensor that pulls air in when need be to prevent mold from forming.

In addition to state-of-the-art winemaking equipment, the facility has a full kitchen and event staff, hosting about 50 weddings each year as well as numerous other events and functions.

The two wineries together make about 25,000 cases with one third of that Januik and two-thirds Novelty Hill. Remarkably, there are over 25 wines across the two wineries. While some might find this level of production and diversity intimidating, Januik enjoys working at scale. “Some people are better suited for making small amounts of wine. I like putting pieces of the puzzle together,” he says.

The results at both Januik and Novelty Hill speak for themselves. Januik has had more than a dozen wines featured in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 lists over the years, and the two wineries have built devoted followings. Of course, to coin a sports phrase, you’re only as good as your last vintage. The current releases below, however, only continue to build on Mike Januik’s long career of excellence.

Januik Chardonnay Cold Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Pale lemon yellow. Light aromas of spice, toast, and hay. A textured, lithe feel on a wine speckled with oak accents. 100% Chardonnay. Fermented and aged for 10 months in French oak. 751 cases produced. Sampled at 58 degrees.

Januik Riesling Bacchus Vineyard Columbia Valley 2009 $NA
Rating: + (Good) Very pretty aromas of mango, floral notes, peach, and spice. The palate is full of pineapple and other tropical fruit flavors. 250 cases produced.

Januik Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. Abundant red fruit-driven aromatics of bright raspberries, currant, and spice on a compellingly aromatic wine. Taste is plush and full of chewy fruit with soft tannins. 95% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Ciel du Cheval, Conner Lee, Klipsun and Weinbau vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak. 1,251 cases produced.

Januik Merlot Klipsun Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark in color. Arresting aromatics of pure, high toned red fruit, earth, mineral, and floral notes. A hedonistically rich wine with dense, rich, silky fruit and fine grained, restrained tannins. A wine with an exceptionally long life ahead of it. 98% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 18 months in French oak. 199 cases produced.

Januik Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A bit closed up and brooding at present but showing high toned herbal notes, spice, licorice, and black cherry. Rich and dense on the palate with abundant, penetrating dark cherry flavors and a long finish. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5%Merlot, 1%Cabernet Franc, and 2% Malbec. Champoux, Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain and Weinbau vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak. 1,597 cases produced.

Januik Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color. Dark and brooding aromatically with plum, cherry, licorice, spice, mineral, and herbal notes. Dense with chewy fruit on a richly flavorful palate followed by an extended finish. Quite closed up at present. Give 2-3 years. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 20 months in French oak. 14.4% alcohol. 377 cases produced.

Januik Syrah Lewis Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color with purple at the rim. Richly aromatic with char, bacon fat, orange peel, mineral, and toast. A big, opulent, intensely flavorful wine with a persistent finish. Beyond hedonistic. 100% Syrah. Aged 18 months in French oak (50% new). 14.2% alcohol. 15 cases produced.

Novelty Hill Viognier Stillwater Creek Columbia Valley 2008 $22
Rating: + (Good) Just a tinge of color. An aromatic wine with white peaches, floral notes, and honeysuckle. Rich and opulent on the palate with a textured feel and pleasing spice flavors. 96% Viognier, 4% Roussanne. Barrel fermented and aged sur lie in French oak for 6 months. 13.5% alcohol. 378 cases produced. Sampled at 58 degrees.

Novelty Hill Chardonnay Stillwater Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $22
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Pale lemon yellow. Pleasing aromas of toast, mineral, buttery notes, and mango. A rich, spicy, silky texture. Barrel fermented and aged sur lie for 10 months. 100% malolactic fermentation. 13.5% alcohol. 1,222 cases produced. Sampled at 58 degrees.

Novelty Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Pleasingly aromatic with toast, spice, butterscotch, herbal notes, and red and black fruit. The palate is big and intensely flavorful. A thoroughly delicious, rich wine with a lingering finish. 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Stillwater Creek, Alder Ridge, Weinbau and Chandler’s Reach vineyards. 14.4% alcohol. 4,846 cases produced.

Novelty Hill Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $22
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Toasty aromas of butterscotch, red currant, and blueberries. Rich and luscious on the palate with an exquisite balance of fruit and barrel providing a textured feel. A quality-to-price-ratio winner.

Photographs courtesy of Januik/Novelty Hill.