Washington State: You’ve come a long way baby…but still have a ways to go

While Washington has come a long ways in terms of recognition as a significant wine region, it still has a long ways to go to reach broader awareness.

The most recent case in point comes from a look at the 25^th edition of Kevin Zraly’s Windows on the World Complete Wine Course. Zraly’s book, always an enjoyable, high level read, is devoted to wines from all across the world. The book is 224 pages long. About seventy of these pages are devoted – deservedly - to wines from France. Looking to the south, California receives forty-plus pages. Washington? A mere two pages.

The section on Washington is really nothing more than a brief mention shoehorned in with Oregon and New York (each get two pages) before moving on to California. The section even begins “Before we tackle the exciting world of California wines…”.

Given the book’s ambitious aim to cover the globe between its covers, this is not too much of a disservice. However, a look at Zraly’s list of ‘Favorite Washington State Producers’ – an interesting list as such things always are – shows just how far Washington is from mainstream awareness. The list reads as follows:

Andrew Hill
Betz
Canoe Ridge
Cayuse
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Columbia Winery
DiStefano
Hogue Cellars
L’Ecole No. 41
Leonetti Cellars
McCrea Cellars
Pepper Bridge
Quilceda Creek
Seven Hills
Woodward Canyon Winery

Now one can always debate such lists. But Andrew Hill? That hurts (sorry folks. I’ve already reserved the website). I’ll let them expand Leonetti’s Cellar (it’s singular, not plural but looking at others on the list one can see where the confusion comes from) but…

Make no mistake. Washington will never be California or France taking up 40 or more pages of a book on world wine. Still, Zraly’s book serves as a reminder that Washington remains a small speck upon the wine world and in mainstream consciousness. To truly make its mark in a way that will demand more pages, there’s a lot more work to be done.

Spring in a bottle! Five white wines under $15

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

While spring may seem far away to those in the Northwest, sunshine is just a corkscrew away. Here's five wines under $15 to get you thinking about sunnier times.

The 2010 L’Ecole No 41 Chenin Blanc marks a turning point for the winery. This is the first released wine that bears the winery’s new label (read a post about the new labels here). Additionally, this wine has been rebranded from 'Walla Voila! Chenin Blanc' to simply ‘Chenin Blanc.’

2010 was a challenging growing season in many areas of the state and especially so for white grapes. Grapes in numerous areas saw mold and rot issues, decreasing tonnage significantly in some spots.

L’Ecole has previously sourced its Chenin Blanc from Willard Farm near Prosser using vines planted in 1979. For the 2010 offering the winery also used fruit from Phil Church Vineyard near Sunnyside to compensate for the decreased tonnage. These vines were also planted in 1979.

Difficult growing season? No matter. The 2010 L’Ecole Chenin Blanc is as dazzling as the new packaging that it comes in with delicious fruit flavors and bright acidity. While the wine stays true to previous vintages with 1.5% Residual Sugar, there is a whopping 9.3 g/l of acid making the wine come off as drier and crisper than previous vintages. A proper salute to L'Ecole's new label, this wine is a winner.

Hogue Cellars is one of Washington’s older wineries, founded in 1982. The winery is also one of the state’s largest, producing 650,000 cases annually. Hogue has been a strong advocate for alternative closures, using screw caps on most of their wines. The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc was aged mostly in stainless steel with a limited amount (12%) aged in oak for four months. The result is a well-priced wine that almost demands oysters to accompany it.

Covey Run Winery was also founded in 1982. The winery has two tiers, Columbia Valley Reserve and the Quail Series which focuses on the value end of the spectrum. Kate Michaud serves as winemaker. Somewhat shockingly given the overwhelming number of winery websites that say little about the winery, the winemaker, or the wines, the Covey Run website gives a compelling, detailed description of Michaud (bless you). Other wineries take note! Gewürztraminer is a somewhat seldom seen varietal in Washington and the 2009 Covey Run bottling is an enjoyable wine at a can’t be beat price.

Chateau Ste. Michelle is the world’s largest producer of Riesling, making over 1,000,000 cases annually (they make over 600,000 cases of the Columbia Valley Riesling alone). The winery makes up to eight different styles of Riesling, displaying this varietal’s versatility. The 2010 Harvest Select Riesling is made in a medium-sweet style. Of note, Chateau Ste. Michelle recently announced its 2011 concert series.

The 2009 Bandit Wines Riesling is one of a limited number of Washington wines to come in an alternative package – in this case a 1000ml Tetra Pak carton. The carton is made mostly of paper and, according to the winery’s website, sports a product-to-package ratio of 96:4 compared to 60:40 for bottled wine. The winery’s website says, “Bandit Riesling is made from premium wine from one of Washington’s best growing regions – The Columbia Valley.” Hmmm…

Read previous Five Under $15s here.

L’Ecole No 41 Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley 2010 $14
Rating: * (Excellent) Light in color. Delicate aromas of fresh cut hay, lime, honey, and Golden Delicious apples. Palate is tart with pink grapefruit, mineral notes, and a zing of acidity. Lingers long after the last sip. 100% Chenin Blanc. Willard Farms, Phil Church vineyards. 1.5% Residual Sugar, 9.3 g/l acid. 13.5% alcohol. 2,122 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Hogue Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley 2009 $11
Rating: + (Good) Aromatics marked by grass, gooseberry, and herbal notes. Crisp and clean with citric acidity. Loses a bit of rhythm in the middle before coming back together for a crisp, citric finish. A refreshing, enjoyable wine. 94% Sauvignon Blanc, 6% Semillon. Aged in stainless steel and oak (12%). 13.9% alcohol. 25,000 cases produced. Recommended

Chateau Ste. Michelle Harvest Select Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $9
Rating: + (Good) An aromatic wine marked by floral notes, white grapefruit, tangerine, and honey. The palate has a weighted feel with a fair amount of residual sugar but enough acidity to hold it together. 4.98 g/100ml Residual Sugar. 0.82g/100 ml Total Acidity. 10.5% alcohol.

Covey Run Gewurztraminer Columbia Valley 2009 $9
Rating: + (Good) Pale in color. Aromas of honey, white flowers, and orange rind on a pleasingly aromatic wine. Off-dry on the palate with a zing of acidity. Thins out a bit on the mid-palate but overall an enjoyable bottle of a seldom seen varietal in the state at a can’t be beat price. 97% Gewurztraminer, 3% Muscat. 13.0% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Bandit Riesling Washington State 2009 $11
Rating: . (Decent) Abundant floral notes, nectarines, red apples, and a whiff of lime on a appealing aroma profile. Palate is fleshy with a touch of sweetness but falls a but flat on the mid-palate, looking for a bit more acidity to lift it up. 100% Riesling. 12.5% alcohol. 12.25% alcohol, TA: 0.75 g/100 ml, 1.95 g/100 Residual Sugar. Note: 1000ml box

Tonight! April Virtual Tasting - 2009 Tamarack Firehouse Red

The April Virtual Tasting is tonight from 7-8pm Pacific. The wine is the 2009 Tamarack Firehouse Red Wine. This wine retails for $20 and is widely available.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery

2. Post your comments/tweets on the wine between 7 and 8pm. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport. I will be using the hashtag #fhouse during the event.

Hope you will join us!

Washington Wine Round-up April 15th to 21st 2011

REMINDER: This month's Virtual Tasting takes place on Tuesday April 26th at 7pm Pacific. Read about how to participate here.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from April 15^th to 21^st. See previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

The Courier News recommends Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling for Easter.

The San Francisco Chronicle recommends eight Washington reds.


From the blogosphere…

Redmond Patch writes about Efeste.

Paul Gregutt writes about wine country maps.

Lucha Vino tries the 2005 McKinley Springs Cabernet.

Woodinville Patch writes about Chateau Ste. Michelle’s concert series.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Passport 2011. Shona also writes about the Chateau Ste. Michelle concert series.

WINO Magazine writes about judging at the Sexy Syrah event. They also write about Tre Nova’s 2008 Bonatello.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Feast Walla Walla.

Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about Passport weekend.

Wine Peeps writes about Cabernet Sauvignon. They also write about a Fielding Hills Merlot vertical.

Oregon Live.com writes about Cave B adding yurts.

Wine Foot interviews Doug McCrea of McCrea Cellars.


From the locals…

The Seattle PI writes about the effect of budget cuts on community colleges with brief mention of wine eductation courses.

Snohomish County Business Journal writes about Snohomish’s quest for specialty beverage makers.

The Tri-City Herald writes about Idaho’s Snake River Valley. They also write about wine tasting at Farmers markets.

KEPRTV writes about Prosser becoming a sister city to the Vani Municipality in the Republic of Georgia.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Mount Baker Vineyards. They also write about three standout Washington reds and that vines are starting to wake up.

The Puget Sound Business Journal maps Washington wineries. They also write about the discussion over the definition of a winery, about building what is now a $3B industry, and Pike & Western Wine Shop.

KIMA TV writes about Spring Barrel weekend in Yakima Valley.


Leftovers (posts missed from previous weeks)…

The Wine Economist asks whether Washington Malbec is the next big thing.

Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about the Sexy Syrah event.


That’s all folks!

Washington winery map from Puget Sound Business Journal

Falling into the ‘I love the Internet’ category, the Puget Sound Business Journal has created what they describe as a “comprehensive list of Washington State wineries, listed by their licensed facilities” using information obtained from the Liquor Control Board. The information was subsequently uploaded into a Google Fusion Table and displayed as a map.

One can click on the map and get thumbnail information about specific wineries. This information includes a listing for “Gallons sold in 2010.” Take the gallon numbers with a grain of salt as these calculations are often a bit convoluted. For example, some wineries may be buying wine in bulk; a new winery may not show production for a year or more after they are licensed; a winery may have its production done at another winery; and wineries may have negative numbers due to issues with storage, racking, spillage, or spoilage. Still, these numbers are about as good as one is going to get. Also note that the locations on the map represent “licensed winemaking facilities” – not tasting rooms.

Hats off to the folks at the Puget Sound Business Journal for creating this excellent resource. See the map here. Enjoy!

Washington Wine Round-up April 8th to 14th 2011

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from April 8th to 14th. See previous round-ups here.


From around the country…

Wines & Vines writes about federal funding for a Prosser wine center.

Daily Astorian writes about an Astoria restaurant winning a Washington Wine Restaurant Award.

The San Francisco Chronicle writes about the sale of Betz Family Winery.


From the blogosphere…

Crosscut.com writes about the sale of Betz Family Winery.

Paul Gregutt writes about Social Media. He also writes about new wines from the Figgins family, and new Northwest wine labels.

Lucha Vino tries Washington grenache vs Garnacha.

365 Things to Do in Walla Walla writes about Vintage Cellars.

Sips & The City writes about bottling wine.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about upcoming Woodinville events. Shona also writes about Bin on the Lake.

Paired Up writes about the 2008 Yellow Hawk Sangiovese.

Wine Peeps writes about Saviah Cellars The Jack Cabernet Sauvignon. They also write about DiStefano.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Charles Smith Wines.

WINO Magazine writes about the 2008 Hestia Merlot.

Write for Wine writes about the 10^th Annual Sexy Syrah event. Margot also writes about recently opened bottles.


From the locals…

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about Washington wines with a Spanish tilt.

The Yakima Herald writes about wine tasting at grocery stores.

The Tri-City Herald writes about the passage of a corkage fee bill, legalizing Yakima’s corkage free zone.

The Seattle Times writes about liquor privatization. Read letters to the editor here. They also toast the legislature for recent beer and wine laws.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Saviah Cellars.

The Ballard News Tribune writes about wine tastings being allowed at farmers markets.

The Seattle PI writes about wine tastings being allowed at farmers markets.

The Tri-City Herald writes about a federal grant for Prosser’s Clore Center.

The Yakima Herald writes about the government lending a hand to the wine industry.

Whatcom Magazine writes about Taste Washington.

CBS Seattle writes about Spring Release parties.

KVEWTV writes about the corkage bill that recently passed in the legislature.

The Highline Times writes about Decanter Wines opening in Burien.


That's all folks!

Will Washington wineries face succession issues?

After last week's announcement of the sale of Betz Family Winery, I stayed up late into the night talking with several friends about the potential implications for the winery and for the Washington wine industry more generally. One question that gnawed at me after the Betz sale is whether Washington’s many small wineries will face succession issues.

The hallmark of the Washington wine industry is small, family wineries where the winemaker also serves as salesperson, bookkeeper, and janitor. As Carrie Simon noted in a recent post, a quintessential part of the Washington wine country experience is talking with the person who makes the wine or someone in their family. What does this mean though when it comes time for the winemaker to retire?

There are really only three options available: transfer the business to someone in the family, sell it, or shut it down. In terms of transferring a winery to a family member, this of course requires a willing participant. Especially in America, people like to go their own way and establish their own identities. How many folks out there are working at a small business passed down across generations or can imagine doing so?

Selling the winery is, of course, always an option. However, this can lead to numerous challenges and changes. Especially in Washington where most wineries do not own their vineyard sources, these may include significant stylistic changes beyond those accompanied by a change in winemaker (Betz Family Winery it should be noted has largely sourced from the same vineyard blocks for many years and will presumably continue to do so).

Another significant issue for many Washington wineries is that the winemaker is often a significant part of the brand. The response I heard from people across the industry last week about the Betz sale was a range of emotions akin to the stages of grieving. Few were ambivalent about the change because many consumers have a connection to this winery and the people involved in it. This is the case for numerous Washington wineries where the persona of the winemaker is inseparable from the brand. This is seldom the case with larger wineries where the winemaker is often seldom seen.

Several Washington wineries, such as Quilceda Creek, Leonetti Cellar, and L’Ecole No 41 have successfully managed the transition to a second generation. A number of Washington wineries that have recently reached the fifteen to twenty year mark face a decision point in the not so distant future.

For many Washington wineries that have sprung up in the last ten years, this issue may seem far off at the moment – paying the bills is far more urgent. However, when that moment comes, there will be interesting decisions to be made and some interesting implications for the industry as a whole.

April Virtual Tasting - 2009 Tamarack Firehouse Red

The April Virtual Tasting is Tuesday April 26th from 7-8pm Pacific. The wine is the 2009 Tamarack Firehouse Red Wine. This wine retails for $20 and is widely available.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery

2. Post your comments/tweets on the wine between 7 and 8pm. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport. I will be using the hashtag #fhouse during the event.

Hope you will join us!

High production wines make up the list at Starbucks of the future

Much ado was made last year about Seattle-based Starbucks taking a number of steps to modify its brand, perhaps most notably by serving wine and beer at test stores. While numerous articles indicated that the test stores in Seattle would focus on selling “local” or “regional” wines, Starbucks instead seems to have focused on selling high production wines made by large producers from around the world.

The Olive Way Starbucks on Capitol Hill is the first store with the company’s name on it to begin selling wine and beer (several other stores that did not bear the corporate name had done so previously). The store, which opened in October, was also substantially redesigned into what USA Today described as a “prototype for the next generation.”

Many of the changes introduced at the store were said to be intended to recapture the feel of a local neighborhood café rather than an international megacompany. From the looks of the wine list, the company is off to a bad start.

The Starbucks wine menu is, understandably, limited with four reds and three whites. The list shows some variety. For example, reds include a Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet, and Red Blend.

In terms of focus, Pacific Northwest wines account for three of the seven wines on the menu, all of which are from Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. This seems a far cry from what the Associated Press originally described as a list intended to be composed of “wine from the Pacific Northwest's vineyards” and what MSNBC described as “regional wines.”

Perhaps not shockingly, given that Starbucks clearly aims to take this program nationwide if it is successful, the wines are also all high production offerings as indicated below.

Reds
Erath Pinot Noir Oregon – 104,000 cases
Alamos Malbec Argentina – 100,000 cases
14 Hands Hot to Trot Washington – 60,000 cases
Louis M. Martini Cabernet California – 205,000 cases

Whites
Maso Canili Pinot Gris Italy – 20,000 cases
Chateau Ste Michelle Riesling Washington - 647,275 cases
William Hill Chardonnay Napa Valley California - Unknown

Now I have nothing against high production wines, and some of these wines, such as the Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling, are undeniably superb values. I also believe that the Washington wine industry could see some benefit from having Starbucks place Ste. Michelle Wine Estates’ wines in its stores nationwide.

However, for a store supposedly looking to recapture a local feel, doesn’t offering high production wines from large producers from around the world seem a little contrary? These are wines consumers could generally find just about anywhere in the country on any retail shelf. They seem to reflect corporate sensitivities rather than displaying any local or regional sensibility.

In terms of the prices, the glass pours are generally reasonable. On bottles, Starbucks has taken a page from the restaurant world with generous markups. For example, the 14 Hands Hot to Trot, which has a retail price of $12, is $29 a bottle (glass price $8). The intent seems to be that Starbucks wants people to come in for a glass of wine but doesn’t want people coming in to share a bottle – or worse, drink a bottle by themselves. In this way, the company seems to be sticking its toe in the water of alcohol sales rather than jumping in (Note: alcohol sales begin after 4pm).

I don’t expect the Olive Way Starbucks – or its stores nationwide - to be stocked with high priced, micro-production wines from local producers. Clearly if the company looked for Washington wines that it can pour by the glass for under $10 and still cover the wholesale cost of the bottle (which is what it appears to have done in its global wine selections), its options are limited. Still, there seems something a little sad about Starbucks making its first foray into the world of wine with high production wines that could be found anywhere. This seems especially true given that the test store is located in the company’s home city in the nation’s second largest wine producing state. If Starbucks is really loooking to alter its image and recapture a local feel, time for take two on the wine list.

Corked Counter - April Update

Since the beginning of the year I have been keeping track of the number of corked bottles of wine I have come across. Again, for my purposes here I am just considering 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA).

TCA typically comes from cork but may also come from barrels and other sources. A number of people have asked me what a wine affected by TCA smells/tastes like. The most frequent descriptions are ‘musty’ or ‘moldy newspaper’ or ‘damp basement.’ Looking for TCA is part of the purpose of checking a wine when it is presented at a restaurant (where at least you have the good fortune of being able to send it back). Unfortunately in many cases consumers don't know what to look for and just think that the wine is of bad quality.

To try to make the count as accurate as possible I have: only included wines that I have personally checked (meaning that they hadn't already been screened); and only included wines that used cork as a closure (excluding synthetic corks, glass stoppers, and screw caps).

Since the start of the year I've sampled 274 wines that fit these criteria. Eight of these wines have been corked, making the percentage currently about 3%.

One interesting question is, what constitutes an acceptable level?

I'll continue to give periodic updates throughout the year and will also continue to increment the 'Corked Counter' along the side of the blog. Feel free to share your stories and thoughts.

Washington Wine Round-up April 1st to 7th

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from April 1st to 7th. See previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

The big news this week the sale of Betz Family Winery. Read a story by Paul Gregutt here and Wine Spectator here.


From the blogosphere…

Washington Wine 9 writes about traveling to wine country. Carrie also writes about a day in the vineyards, simple pleasures, things to do in Yakima Valley, and B&Bs and rentals in Walla Walla.

The Wine Economist writes about Washington’s identity crisis.

Sips & The City writes about Taste Washington.

Paul Gregutt gives his top wines from March. He also write about Rulo Chardonnay. Read part two here.

ESPN writes about Doubleback.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Walla Walla favorites.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about the sale of Betz Family Winery. Shona also writes about the closing of Covey Run’s tasting room and regular tasting room hours for Pomum.

The Oregon Wine Blog writes about Taste Washington.

Under the Grape Tree writes about the 2010 Barnard Griffin Rose.

Nectar Tasting Room & Wine Blog writes about April Spokane wine events.

WINO Magazine writes about Lake Chelan Winery.

Pairing Up writes about Va Piano Vineyards 2007 Syrah.

Wine Peeps writes about the sale of Betz Family Winery. They also write about the 2009 Willow Crest Riesling, and Obelisco Estate.

Write for Wine writes about Washington wine facts.

Vinotology gives and April 1^st The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly.

iSante asks what makes Washington wine unique.

Lucha Vino compares a Washington and California Merlot.

Parallel Winos does a post about Covington Cellars. Antoine also does a post on NHV Winery.

Woodinville Patch writes about the sale of Betz Family Winery.


From the locals…

KVEW TV writes about WSU adding a wine business major.

The Olympian Writes about Wade Wolfe of Thurston Wolfe Winery.

The Tri-City Herald writes about WSU looking for funding for its wine center.

The Seattle Times writes about concerns about a new liquor privatization plan.

The News-Tribune writes about Lake Chelan.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about wine projects.


That’s all folks!

2011 Spring Wine Event Season Begins

The 2011 wine event season begins in earnest this weekend with the return of the Frog. A little over a year ago Cayuse Vineyards announced that it was changing its release weekend from November to April – delaying the event by five months the first year. Open only to mailing list members, the event takes place in Walla Walla Valley today and tomorrow. As wine lovers - and more importantly wine buyers - are always in attendance, numerous valley wineries will have extended hours this weekend.

Of recent note in the valley, K Vintners opened up a new tasting room downtown (referred to as its ‘world headquarters’); Sleight of Hand Cellars opened a new tasting room south of downtown (check out the winery’s excellent Funkadelic Syrah from the Rocks region, tasting room only); and Gramercy Cellars opened a tasting room downtown (affectionately referred to as the ‘man cave’). Other wineries to recently open up tasting facilities downtown include Tero Estates and Flying Trout. For those traveling to the area, also check out new winery Fjellene Cellars.

In addition to the Cayuse release weekend, Walla Walla Valley’s Spring Release Weekend is coming up May 7^th and 8^th where wineries will pour their latest and greatest.

The weekend of April 16^th and 17^th features two events – Woodinville’s Passport to Woodinville and Yakima Valley’s Spring Barrel Tasting. This year’s Passport event has been significantly revamped. People who purchase tickets are now able to use them for six weeks after the event to visit participating wineries without paying a tasting fee. Read Woodinville Wine Update for some winery-specific events taking place. Tickets are available here.

Fifty wineries are participating in Yakima Valley’s Spring Barrel Tasting weekend. Here wineries offer both new releases and glimpses into the future with wine poured straight from the barrel. In Richland, Barnard Griffin has promised a guest appearance and book signing by Rio, their Golden Retriever featured in the book Winery Dogs of Washington. In Prosser, Milbrandt Vineyards will be barrel sampling its first-ever Tempranillo. In Yakima, check out new sparkling wine producer Treveri Cellars. See the complete list of participating wineries here.

On a final note, Carrie Simon of Washington Wine 9 is in the midst of a nine-day trip through Washington wine country and has been posting notes and pictures. Read Simon’s travel notes here.

Super Premium, Ultra Premium, Extra Stupid

There are many strange terms that get bandied about in the wine world. Here are several that it is time to send the way of things.

I frequently read about such-and-such a winery being a producer of ‘super premium’ or ‘ultra premium’ wine. The description is usually on a winery website or a back label. Super premium. Are we talking about wine or are we talking about gasoline grades?

When I first became interested in wine I used to wonder what in the world these terms meant. Were they supposed to convey some meaning that I was expected to understand? ‘We are a boutique producer of super premium wine.’ Super sounds good. Ultra sounds better I guess. Was there a higher category? I always wanted to read, ‘We are a producer of über ultra super premium wine.’ I wanted a winery to take it to the limit!

Let’s be clear. To consumers, these terms mean absolutely nothing. However, for wineries and marketing type folks, these terms are used both to describe wine quality - nebulously defined - and a particular market segment – usually rigidly defined.

From a quality perspective what a winery is trying to say is, “We make really high quality wine.” But here’s the thing. You never see a winery that says, “We make okay wine at high volumes at good prices.” Even if this is the case, few want to say so.

From a market segmentation perspective, these terms have definitions that typically describe wines that are, interestingly, at the low end of the price spectrum. Why? Because this is where most of the action is in terms of volume sales. You might not think about the difference between, say, an $8 bottle of wine and a $10 bottle of wine, but other people do and these are, in fact, different segments.

Here’s the way Nielsen looks at the definitions of the ‘super premium,’ ‘ultra premium,’ and other categories for wine:

Segment	Price Range
Economy Popular Premium Super Premium Ultra Premium Luxury	$0-$2.99 $3-$5.99 $6-$7.99 $8-$9.99 $10-$14.99 $15+

Let me get this straight. Washington wineries that are boasting about producing ‘ultra premium’ wines are talking about wines in the $10 to $15 range? I don’t think so. I assume they are talking about the wine from a quality perspective?

While I have seen a few wineries say, ‘We are a producer of premium wine,’ I have not seen any that say, ‘We are a producer of popular wine.’ I have also yet to see a winery say, ‘We are a producer of luxury wine,’ even if they are making wines in the $15+ price range. Why? Because the term luxury has a certain connotation that might make some consumers uncomfortable. Expensive wine is a luxury but to say it is a dangerous thing. So ‘ultra premium’ is about as high as it goes, which is of course where most Washington wineries sit making it useless from a differentiation perspective.

For people interested in market segments, I understand that these categories have meaning. Somehow though these terms have crept out into the consumer world where they seem bizarre, adding to the opaqueness of talking about wine. It's time to take super premium and ultra premium off winery websites and the backs of bottles and put them in the trash bin. Let's talk about wine in a way consumers can understand.

Washington Wine Round-up March 22nd to 31st

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from March 22nd to 31st. See previous round-ups here.

Buckle your seat belts. Lots of Washington wine love this week.

From around the country…

Mutineer Magazine writes that it’s a fine time for Washington wine.

Wines & Vines writes about Washington’s search for an identity.

D Magazine writes about Washington State wine with callouts to Spring Valley, Col Solare, Northstar, and Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Connect Savannah writes about Spring Valley Vineyard.

The Santa Rosa Press Democrat writes about recent changes at Ascentia.

The Augusta Chronicle writes about Tamarack’s Firehouse Red (with possibly the worst bottle image I have seen).

Washington Examiner writes about Grenache with a shoutout to McCrea Cellars.

The Los Angeles Times names Maison Bleue’s Jaja Red its wine of the week.


From the blogosphere…

Zester Daily writes about Amavi’s 2008 Syrah.

Seattle Stevie writes about Taste Washington.

Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about a Taste Washington seminar on how to sell Washington wine.

Washington Beer Blog writes about Taste Washington. They also write about the Northwest Wine Academy.

Wine Ragazza writes about Taste Washington.

Pairing Up writes about Va Piano Vineyards Syrah. They also write about the Hightower Malbec, and Buty’s Merlot/Cabernet Franc.

Amanda House Photography writes about Taste Washington.

Write for Wine writes about the Washington Wine Restaurant Awards.

The Blue Collar Wine Guy writes about Woodhouse.

Wine Saints writes about wine and sports.

Paul Gregutt writes about Taste Washington. He also writes about a change in direction and DeLille Cellars.

Seattlest writes about Taste Washington.

Wine Peeps gives Taste Washington highlights. They also write about the 2009 Maryhill Rose, Holly Turner of Three Rivers Winery, and malbec.

Lucha Vino compares a Washington and Spanish tempranillo.

Vinotology writes about Robert Smasne.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about upcoming wine events. Shona also writes about women’s events, Patit Creek coming to Woodinville, Alta Cellars, and Elsom Cellars.

Northwest Cork & Fork writes about Taste Washington.

Wine Foot writes about Taste Washington.

Wine and Dine Walla Walla writes about the new Walla Walla map. They also write about Wine Press NW naming Zerba Cellars its winery of the year.

Voracious gives some pre-Taste Washington thoughts.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Taste Washington.

Crosscut.com writes about cuts to the state’s tourism bureau.

Heed the Hedonist writes about Taste Washington.

365 Things to Do in Walla Walla, Washington writes about the Uptown Wine Walk.

Esquin writes about Taste Washington.

The Gray Market Report writes about the Taste Washington seminar on wine scoring.

Parallel Winos does a video post on NHV Winery.

WINO Magazine writes about Taste Washington. Read part two here. They also write about the Dry Falls Cellars Reserve Petit Verdot, the Taste Washington restaurant awards, Vine and Sun, and L’Ecole’s new look.

Wine and Food Musings writes about the 2008 Bridgman Cabernet Sauvignon.

Kirkland Patch writes about Woodinville’s Hollywood Hill.

Bricks of Wine writes about Taste Washington.


From the locals…

The Kitsap Sun gives a wine list for Taste Washington. They also give their take on the event.

The Columbian writes about liquor privatization.

The Seattle Times writes about recent cuts in tourism funds. They also write about private liquor sales being pitched as a way to save the budget.

Coastal Explorer Magazine writes about top wines from the Savor Cannon Beach event.

Governor Christine Gregoire says in the Tri-City Herald that we’re living in a fine time for Washington wine.

Writing for the Spokesman-Review, Paul Gregutt writes about Washington State Chardonnay.

The Spokesman-Review writes about the thriving Spokane wine industry.

The News-Tribune writes about Lake Chelan.

Seattle Magazine gives its 2011 wine awards.

KPLU writes about L’Ecole’s recent label change.

Whatcom Magazine makes some wine recommendations.


Leftovers (posts missed from previous weeks)…

Thirsty Girl takes a road trip to Walla Walla.

The Tri-City Herald writes about Columbia Crest’s new head winemaker.


That's all folks!

Dynasty Cellars - How Peter Osvaldik went from living on the wrong side of the border to making Washington wine

Peter Osvaldik of Dynasty Cellars grew up in the Slovak Republic. Although his home was physically near Vienna, he says, “We were on the wrong side of the border.” He laughs. It’s the laugh from a man who has a sense of humor that can only come from having lived a much harder life.

Osvaldik and his wife Olga escaped the communist regime of what was then Czechoslovakia and came to the United States in 1983. After spending a few years in Los Angeles - “LA was a madhouse” he says – they moved to Washington a little over twenty years ago.

When Osvaldik first came to the U.S., he started out working as a general contractor. However, after moving to Washington, he began looking for indoor work. “In the Northwest, outdoor work wasn’t too appealing,” he says with a chuckle. Osvaldik settled into making custom cabinets and working with granite, which he has continued to do ever since.

The Osvaldik family made wine for generations in the Check Republic. “We had wine stacked up everywhere growing up,” he says. Osvaldik had been a home winemaker for about six years when he said to himself, “I'm going for it!”

However, as a budding winemaker from a former communist country, there were barriers. Osvaldik had to have an FBI interview and had to fill out an Interpol questionnaire. As you may know, there is a vast conspiracy of foreign-born winemakers working to corrupt our precious bodily fluids. Osvaldik simply says of his experience starting the winery, “There was quite an interesting road to it.”

Dynasty Cellars had its first commercial release with the 2006 vintage. The winery makes 800 cases annually with plans to grow to 1,200 in the coming years. Fruit for Dynasty Cellars' wines comes exclusively from three of Walla Walla Valley’s finest vineyards – Les Collines, Seven Hills, and Pepper Bridge.

Dynasty Cellars’ wines have thus far received limited distribution, mainly to retailers and restaurants located in the Bellingham area. However, the Osvaldiks opened a tasting room at their waterfront home in December. The tasting room is now open Friday through Sunday 1-6pm.

While production is growing, the Osvaldiks plan to keep the winery small. “I don’t want to have any employees!” Osvaldik says. Rather than hiring, he has his three adult children assist at the winery. “We volunteered them all!” he says, again with a laugh.

Dynasty Cellars DCC Cabernet Sauvignon Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $33
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark in color with a purple tinge. Abundant dark berry aromas along with light spices, char, and licorice. The palate is big and brawny, rich and concentrated, packed tightly full of fruit and chalky tannins. The finish glides along. An impressive effort with the tannic structure to go the distance. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Aged in French oak (25% new). 14.5% alcohol. 155 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Dynasty Cellars DC3 Meritage Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2007 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Leaps from the glass with licorice, chocolate, cough syrup, black pepper, sweet spices, and black fruit. The palate is rich, thick, and fruit filled. 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 6% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot. Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills, and Les Collines vineyards. Aged in French and American oak (30% news). 14.6% alcohol. 350 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Summary of Posts for March 2011

Below is a summary of posts for March 2011.

The Top 60 - A Look Back at Some of 2010s Best Wines Fresh Sheet March 2nd 2011

Free the wine! How protectionist taxation hurts Washington wine in British Columbia and hurts BC wine at home

Washington Wine Round-up February 22nd to 28th A Mistake March Virtual

Tasting - 2008 Desert Wind Ruah Watch out world. Here comes EFESTĒ Washington State

Wine 2011 Tour Guide released Do wineries fudge alcohol levels? Washington Wine Round-up

March 1st to 7th Liquor Control Board gets caught in its own web during compliance check Taste

Washington Japan 2011 postponed due to earthquake Washington Syrah - Star or FUBAR?

Washington Wine Round-up March 8th to 14th Fresh Sheet March 18th 2011

A new look for the next generation: L’Ecole’s label gets a makeover

JB Neufeld - "that uniqueness of place"

Fresh Sheet March 23rd 2011

Washington Wine Round-up March 15th to 21st

Tips and Tricks for Taste Washington 2011

Lake Chelan's WineGirl Wines

What Makes Washington Wine Country Different Tonight!

March Virtual Tasting - 2008 Desert Wind Ruah Five Syrah Under $15

39th Amendment passes standardizing national liquor laws

Today voters overwhelmingly passed the 39^th Amendment to the Constitution standardizing liquor laws across the nation. The amendment removes numerous, onerous state-by-state regulations that have hampered both businesses and wine lovers for generations.

Among the many changes, wine and other liquor will now be able to be bought, sold, and shipped to and from each of the fifty states. Laws banning liquor from being sold on Sunday in numerous states were negated by the amendment. Liquor may now be sent through the U.S. mail, something many consumers had done for years not knowing that it was illegal. Businesses are now spared numerous cumbersome regulations, such as requiring monthly reports to be filed even if no sales were made. Tom Wark of the Fermentation wine blog, who recently celebrated his 122^nd birthday said, “I never thought I’d live to see this day.” Wark was brought out of cryopreservation to witness the passing of the amendment.

Another amendment, which would have granted bottles of wine the same rights as individuals, was narrowly defeated. Winemaker Greg Harrington the 3^rd of Gramercy Cellars expressed disappointment saying, “Wine is a living thing. One day our children are going to look back at this vote with embarrassment.”

The new laws are scheduled to take effect in 2075. The date was chosen to correspond to the tail end of Wine Advocate writer Jay Miller’s drinking window for the 2007 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine that received a perfect 100-point score from the publication. Celebrations are planned across the nation to mark the occasion.