Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report Note: Site has moved to www.northwestwinereport.com

Below is a summary of posts from February 2011.

Rulo Winery - A labor of love

Fresh Sheet February 2nd 2011

Washington Wine Round-up January 22nd to 31st

February Virtual Tasting - 2008 Columbia Crest H3 Merlot

Top of the Class – Nefarious Cellars leads the way in Washington’s newest growing region

Fresh Sheet February 9th 2011

Washington Wine Round-up February 1st to 7th

February's Five Wines Under $15

Fresh Sheet February 15th 2011

Taste Washington! Seattle 2011 Cometh

Washington Wine Round-up February 8th to 14th

Spokane’s Barrister Winery and the Three Degrees of Separation of Washington wine

The changing face of the Seattle wine scene

Stepping into another world at Woodinville’s JM Cellars

Washington Wine Round-up February 15th to 21st

2011 Corked Counter Update

After starting off 2011 with a corked wine, I decided to keep a tally of the number of corked wines I have this year (see the original post regarding this here). To try to make the count as accurate as possible I have: only included wines that I have personally checked to see whether they were corked, meaning that they hadn't already been screened; and only included wines that used cork as a closure, excluding synthetic corks, glass stoppers, and screwcaps.

Since the start of the year I've sampled 145 wines with a cork closure. Four of these wines have been corked. This makes the percentage of corked wines a little under 3%.

I'll continue to give periodic updates throughout the year and will also continue to increment the 'Corked Counter' along the side of the blog.

February's Virtual Tasting is TONIGHT from 7-8pm Pacific Time. Read more about it here.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from February 15th to 21st. See previous round-ups here.


From around the country…

Wine Business.com writes about the 2010 growing season in Washington.

The San Francisco Chronicle recommends Northwest Chardonnay.

Knoxnews.com writes about blends to watch for, with a callout to the 2008 Hedges CMS Red.


From the blogosphere…

Sips & The City writes about Seattle’s Urban Enoteca.

Paul Gregutt writes about Doug McCrea’s Salida Wines.

Vinotology asks what Precept Wine Brands’ growth means to the Washington wine industry.

Seattlest writes about finalists for the 2011 James Beard Awards.

WINO Magazine writes about Stevens Winery’s 2007 Merlot. They also write about Riedel wine glasses.

Gal Time ssays choosing the right Washington wine might benefit your health.

The Bellevue Scene writes about Maryhill Winery’s vintage port-style wine.

Good Fruit Grower writes about the Washington wine industry.

Write for Wine writes about Taste Washington.

Wine Peeps write about Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut. They also write about a challenging wine pairing.


From the locals…

Northwest Cable News writes about EB Foote winery donating proceeds of a wine to Alzheimer’s Disease.

KNDO writes about new tasting rooms for TERO Estates, Flying Trout, and Don Carlo at the Marcus Whitman in Walla Walla.

Seattle Weekly writes about learning more about wine.

Wine Press NW writes about the Wine Grape Growers convention.

KOMO News writes about EB Foote’s struggle to find a buyer.

Herald.net writes about Alex Golitzin of Quilceda Creek being nominated for a James Beard Award.

Bellevue Reporter.com writes about Fivash Cellars.

The News Tribune writes about Chateau Faire Le Pont.

The Bellingham Herald writes about some splurge wines.


That's all folks!

Reminder February's Virtual Tasting takes places this Thursday from 7-8pm Pacific Time. Read more about it here.

A visit to Woodinville’s JM Cellars is nothing short of transformative. Though located a mere twenty minutes from the bustle of Seattle, it seems like a world apart.

The seven-acre property – called Bramble Bump – is breathtaking and is easily one of the most beautiful spots in Washington wine country. The area is thickly wooded with a ravine running down one side of the property and springs feeding a nearby stream. Wildlife is resplendent in the area.

The property was purchased by Philip and Frances MacBride as part of Hollywood Farm in 1943. This purchase also included the manor house, now located on the Chateau Ste. Michelle property. The MacBrides gave their two daughters, Alice and Jan, two pieces of property, with Jan receiving the property where JM Cellars is now located.

Jan and her husband were avid horticulturalists and arborealists. They bought numerous species of plants and trees for the property, including over 140 Japanese maples and 100 rhododendrons. They assiduously labeled them, and many are registered with the local horticulture society.

JM Cellars’ owners John and Peggy Bigelow met the original owners when the couple were in their mid 80s and were looking to sell the property. There were numerous suitors looking to do a variety of projects with the space, such as making a Bed & Breakfast. However, it was Bigelow’s commitment to maintaining the property – especially the “island of horticulture” that is in the middle of the grounds that proved pivotal. While some had said that they might remove it, Bigelow said that he would make it a centerpiece. To the couple, who had a strong sentimental attachment to this area of the property, this was a deciding factor. “I feel a huge responsibility to keep it up,” Bigelow says.

The Bigelows bought the property in 2000 shortly after starting JM Cellars. While a picturesque location, there was much work to be done. It took Bigelow four years to pull out the blackberry bushes that had taken over much of the area. Doug Roskelly (now of TERO Estates in Walla Walla) built the winery facility. The building was designed to be functional with most of the facility made of concrete and steel. The property serves as both a winery and a home, with a domicile upstairs.

Before getting into the wine business John Bigelow worked for 10 years at IBM – where he would meet his wife Peggy - and another five at other high tech companies. The Bigelows have been married for 25 years. It was Peggy who would introduce him to her sister’s husband in the early 1980s. The man was a former backcountry ranger who had owned a wine shop in Ashland, Oregon. That man was Michael Januik, now of Januik Winery.

Bigelow watched Januik’s career progress from winery to winery until he was named head winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Talking with Januik about wine, Bigelow had a revelation. “This is exactly where I want to go with my life,” Bigelow recalls thinking.

At that point he was 40 years old and had spent enough time in the software business that he was looking for a change (hear hear). He started working on the business case for a winery, taking classes at UC Davis, and reading every winemaking book he could find.

In 1998 he turned the basement of the family home into a winery. He made 100 cases of wine that year, giving the wine away to family and friends. In 1999 he made his first commercial wine – 350 cases of Tre Fanciulli. The name means ‘three treasured lads’ – a reference to the Bigelow’s children. (Ten years later Bigelow says, “They’re still mostly treasured.”) Shortly after releasing his first wine he got a call at ten o’clock at night saying that the wine had won Ray’s Boathouse’s annual wine competition and that the restaurant wanted to pick the wine up. It was an important first step.

Bigelow spent the following year in Walla Walla, making his wine at the Three Rivers facility and working alongside Holly Turner, Charlie Hoppes (now of Fidelitas) and Januik. Making wine that year in Walla Walla turned out to be propitious. “The reason I have Margaret’s Vineyard is because I did that,” Bigelow says.

Margaret’s Vineyard is JM Cellars’ estate vineyard. The vineyard is named after Bigelow’s wife with John the ‘J’ in JM. The forty-acre site, part of the SeVein project, was planted in 2006 to 16 acres of Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carmenère.

On a recent visit to the winery Bigelow was receiving Merlot from the vineyard. “I’ve been waiting for this for ten months,” he said. Bigelow is excited about the young fruit from his vineyard. “It’s exactly the way you would want it to be,” he says. Bigelow continues, “Every element of this vineyard is what I wanted to do. If it’s good, I did it. If it’s bad, I did it.”

While the winery is looking forward to using estate fruit for its wine, JM currently sources fruit from some of Washington’s best vineyards, including Boushey, Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval, Conner Lee, Seven Hills, and Stillwater Creek.

Bigelow brings a fine attention to detail to winemaking. He has his grapes brought back from eastern Washington in refrigerated trucks. The doors on the winemaking facility are made of copper to maintain a cooler temperature during the day. He has two open topped oak fermentation tanks that were custom built by Taransaud. “I like doing big lot fermentations,” he explains. He keeps his fermentation bins slightly off the floor to maintain a more consistent temperature. He says, “Anything you can control, try because there’s a lot of things you can’t control.” The result is a dazzling lineup of wines, many of which sell out before release.

While the focus at JM Cellars is clearly on the wines, the experience at the winery is no doubt part of the reason many keep coming back. During wine club events, Bigelow likes to hide half bottles of wine on the property for people to find and take home as they stroll about the grounds.

Since starting out over twelve years ago JM Cellars has grown to close to 6,000 cases. “That’s where I’m staying,” Bigelow says. Meanwhile brother-in-law Mike Januik has his own winery right down the street. What’s it like having two accomplished winemakers in the family? “We have the best family reunions of all time,” Bigelow says with a chuckle.

JM Cellars Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Pretty aromatics of toast, apple, and light butter. A full, rounded feel on the palate etched by acidity. A lingering finish. A very pretty expression of Chardonnay. Lewis and Conner Lee vineyards. Aged in French oak (15% new) for 8 months with 75% complete malolactic fermentation. 300 cases produced.

JM Cellars Merlot Red Mountain 2008 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Compelling aromas of red currant, nuts, and spice. Full, rich, and grippy on a palate loaded with Bing cherry flavors and dry, taught tannins. 100% Merlot. Kiona (11%), Ciel du Cheval (54%), and Klipsun vineyards (35%). Aged 18 months in French oak (50% new). 225 cases produced.

JM Cellars Longevity Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $38
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A rich, compelling, aromatic wine with char, black cherry, and light herbal notes. Palate brings layers of complexity with winding flavors of black cherry and herbal notes that persist on and on backed by a scaffolding of firm tannins. Builds on an impressive 2007 vintage release. 36% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, and 3% Carmenère. Stillwater Creek, Alder Ridge, Conner Lee, Seven Hills, and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. Aged in French oak (70% new) for 21 months. 975 cases produced.

JM Cellars Syrah Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley 2008 $40
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark in color. Leaps from the glass with blueberry, smoked meat, and mineral notes. Opens up and expands across the palate with meat, earth, and mineral flavors. A persistent finish. Aged in French and Hungarian oak (50% new) for 18 months. 100 cases produced.

JM Cellars Tre Fanciulli Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $42
Rating: * (Excellent) Very pretty, toasty aromatics of spice, char, smoke, and black fruit on a wine dominated by oak aromas at present. The palate has a dense core of cherry fruit flavors and a healthy amount of grip to the tannins. A beautifully persistent finish. Alder Ridge, Ciel du Cheval, Shaw, Boushey, Seven Hills, Kiona, and Klipsun vineyards. Aged in French oak (75% new) for 21 months. 350 cases produced.

JM Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2008 $38
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark in color. Rises up from the glass with black cherry, spice, anise, and light herbal notes. A mouthful of intense red and black fruit flavors with a rich, textured feel. Gracefully structured with a thirty plus second finish. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. Klipsun, Shaw, Ciel du Cheval, and Kiona vineyards. 300 cases produced.

JM Cellars Founder’s Reserve Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $75
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Char, spice, smoke, and black and red fruit. Impeccably balanced on the palate with red fruit, spice, light herbal notes, and fine-grained tannins. Opens up and expands with waves of fruit. This is a wine you keep thinking about for a long time after the last drop is gone. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc. 85 cases produced.

Reminder February's Virtual Tasting takes places this Thursday from 7-8pm Pacific Time. Read more about it here.

In the last several months the Seattle wine scene has been getting a makeover. While Woodinville has long been the center of attention in the area for wine, recently various new tasting rooms, wineries, and other businesses have opened up in Seattle giving consumers a number of new alternatives in the city.

Perhaps the most compelling of these is Urban Enoteca, which opened at the beginning of December. Located in SoDo a few miles south of Starbucks headquarters, the business is a shared tasting facility for some of Washington’s best wineries, including Fielding Hills, Fidelitas, Côte Bonneville, McCrea Cellars, Five Star Cellars, Kiona Vineyards & Winery, and Cave B Winery. The facility is the brainchild of Terry Thompson who got the idea after visiting the Press Club in San Francisco.

While the building is tucked under an overpass and is located in an industrial area of town, all this is quickly forgotten upon entering the facility. Urban Enoteca manages simultaneously to be high class without being intimidating. There is a ‘wall of water’ along the right hand side as you enter and a freestanding waterfall a short distance away. Plush chairs and couches are distributed throughout the facility.

Patrons are provided with a ‘library card’ upon entrance to sample wines so they don't have to constantly reach for the wallet. Wine may be purchased by the taste, glass, or bottle. The prices compared to, say, a glass of wine at a local restaurant, are quite reasonable. For example, on a recent visit I had a glass of 2007 Five Star Cabernet Sauvignon for $7, which retails for $35. Better yet, one can sample numerous wines before deciding which one to settle down with or bring home.

The Library Lounge at Urban Enoteca provides a variety of appetizers and small plates. The facility also has a variety of rooms for various events, including a 25-seat room, a 40-seat room, and a 230-seat room. The facility also has extended hours and is open Tuesday through Thursday until 8pm, Friday and Saturday until 10pm, and Sunday until 7pm.

Another shared tasting facility that opened recently is Vintner’s Annex Tasting Room and Wine Shop in Ballard. While scores of eastern Washington wineries have opened tasting rooms in Woodinville in the last year, here we see four Woodinville wineries - Alta Cellars, Barrage Cellars, Cuillin Hills Winery, and Des Voigne Cellars – opening up a tasting space in Seattle.

These wineries are not alone. A number of other wineries have recently opened facilities in the city as well. Last month Patterson Cellars opened a tasting room on the Pike Street Hill Climb by Pike’s Place. Bartholomew Winery recently planted its flag in the old Rainier Brewery building next to Interstate 5. These wineries join the South Seattle Artisan Wineries, which have long been located in Seattle.

It’s not just wineries and tasting rooms opening up in Seattle however. In December sommelier David LeClaire of Seattle Uncorked opened Wine World Warehouse. Located in the old Office Depot building at the intersection of Interstate 5 and 45^th Avenue, the store is unmissable when driving northbound on the highway with a gigantic sign announces its presence. Wine World is massive in scale with over 20,000 square feet of floor space.

While Wine World Warehouse contains wines from around the world, the Northwest is clearly the focus here with over 500 wines from the area. The store is open 11am to 9pm seven days a week and has near daily tasting events (see current list here). The facility also has an event space.

These new businesses opening up in Seattle is no accident. While the Washington wine industry is still growing, the state of the economy means that more and more businesses are looking to get closer to consumers. With Woodinville swelling in the last year to over 80 wineries and tasting rooms, many are looking for alternatives and ways to differentiate themselves. Increasingly, many are feeling that Seattle might be the place to do it.

Reminder February's Virtual Tasting takes places this Thursday from 7-8pm Pacific Time. Read more about it here.

Despite the Washington wine industry’s continual growth, it remains an unusually small community. Spokane’s flagship Barrister Winery is further proof that there is never more than two to three degrees of separation between any two wineries in the state.

Our story begins when Greg Lipsker was attending Gonzaga University in Spokane. There he would receive both his B.A. and M.B.A. before going on to study law at Georgetown University. While Lipsker was at Gonzaga, Myles Anderson – now co-owner of Walla Walla Vintners – was Dean of Students.

As has been the case for numerous winemakers throughout Washington, Anderson’s love of wine was inspirational. Lipsker started out taking a wine appreciation class. “That’s what really got me excited about wine,” Lipsker says.

Flash forward to when Lipsker met fellow attorney Mike White through a mutual acquaintance. While both practiced law, they shared a much deeper bond as well. “We were wine drinking buddies,” Lipsker says.

At first Lipsker and White’s love of wine was focused solely on the consumption end of the wine business. That changed in 1997 when their two families went on vacation to Nelson, British Columbia. Unfortunately, no one had brought wine along (one has to wonder if B.C.’s archaic wine laws played a role in this story). They stopped by a wine store in town and left with a kit to make five gallons of Zinfandel. “We made five gallons in Michael’s laundry room,” Lipsker says.

The following year they made their first wine from grapes. Here Lipsker’s connection with Myles Anderson would prove crucial. Lipsker had assisted Anderson three years earlier with the legalities of setting up Walla Walla Vintners. Now Lipsker would get his first grapes from Anderson, who would also go on to help the duo identify top fruit sources from throughout the state.

At first Lipsker and White started out small. In 1999 they came back from the Walla Walla Valley with a prized possession - 700 pounds of Cabernet Sauvignon from one of Leonetti Cellar’s estate vineyards. However, in 2000 their production increased substantially when they received 1.5 tons of grapes at their garage. “More than we could drink,” Lipsker says. “More than our friends could drink,” White adds. They realized that there was only one way out.

That same year they sent four bottles of their homemade wine to the Indianapolis International Wine Competition. They won three golds and a silver medal. It was confirmation that they were on the right track.

Barrister Winery was bonded in 2001. The name seemed an obvious choice given their mutual profession. The winery started out making Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. However, when they were looking for their first wine to release in 2003, the Cabernet Sauvignon needed another year of age. The Merlot also needed some additional time. They needed something else.

“Neither Greg or I were big Cabernet Franc fans at the time but we sure loved the fruit,” White says. When they were blending the Cabernet Franc, they found an important ingredient. “Cabernet Sauvignon lit it up,” Lipsker says. While a somewhat unusual choice for an inaugural release, they decided to release a varietally labeled Cabernet Franc. The wine has subsequently become a signature wine for Barrister. “It has almost a cult-like following,” Lipsker says. Fruit from Chelle den Pleasant in the Prosser area and Weinbau Vineyard traditionally make up the bulk of the wine which is consistently one of Washington’s best Cabernet Francs.

Barrister is located in downtown Spokane. The 25,000 square foot brick building was built in 1906 and was formerly the site of a wholesale auto parts store. White says that when they first bought the facility in 2004 it was, “an area in transition.” While the area surrounding the winery is currently under a good deal of construction, Barrister has become a focal point. The winery boasts a pretty tasting bar as well as a large space for events. They also show Gonzaga University away games on a large projection screen.

In a unique twist, more than 21,000 trains pass by the winery each year, giving the barrels a gentle vibration. Lipsker and White believe it has played a role in the winemaking process. “Our wines are train settled,” White likes to joke. On any visit to the barrel room – an underground, single stack facility – one is sure to feel trains rumbling by.

While the trains may have something to do with the winery’s success, no doubt Lipsker and White’s passion and commitment has played an important role as well. “We are passionate about wine,” White says. No doubt that passion is inspiring the next generation of winemakers.

Barrister Winery makes 4,000-5,000 cases annually.

Barrister Winery Riesling Columbia Valley 2009
Rating: + (Good) An aromatic wine with pineapple, peaches, and mineral notes. Bone dry on the palate with a big blast of acidity along with citrus flavors. 14.1% alcohol. 136 cases produced.

Barrister Winery Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2007 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) A very aromatic wine with licorice, cherry, caramel, and mint. The palate has abundant chewy red fruit flavors. 86% Merlot (Dwelley Vineyard), 9% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.8% alcohol. 271 cases produced.

Barrister Winery Rough Justice Red Wine Columbia Valley NV $20
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant blackberry, spice, and red and black fruit. Dry with a big lick of fruit and a firm backbone of tannins. 43% Merlot, 26% Syrah, 19% Cabernet Franc, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.8% alcohol.

Barrister Winery Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2008 $27
Rating: * (Excellent) A perfumed aroma profile with sweet herbal notes and black tea, along with cherry and spice. Absolutely delicious fruit flavors accented by dry tannins. 88% Cabernet Franc (Chelle den Pleasant, Weinbau), 12% Cabernet Sauvignon (Bacchus, Seven Hills, Weinbau). Aged 17 months in French (70%) and American oak (70% new). 1,200 cases produced.

Barrister Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Sagemoor Vineyard Columbia Valley 2007 $33
Rating: * (Excellent) An alluring, aromatic wine with layers of complexity marked by blackberry, herbal notes, floral notes, licorice, and chocolate. On the palate, a big, bold, gripping wine with abundant fruit flavors and dry tannins. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Syrah. Aged 20 months in French (75%) and American oak. 15.2% alcohol. 210 cases produced.

Barrister Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2005 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) A beautiful, perfumed wine with licorice, spice, and red and black fruit. A big, intense, extracted wine full of delicious fruit flavors. Alcohol shows through a bit at times. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 95% Artz Vineyard, 5% Seven Hills. 15.8% alcohol.

Barrister Winery Syrah Bacchus Vineyard Columbia Valley 2007 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark and inky in color with purple at the rim. Abundant floral aromatics along with orange peel and black fruit. A big wine with tart, citric acidity, a textured mouthfeel, and firm tannins.

Barrister Winery Syrah Bacchus Vineyard Columbia Valley 2005 $NA
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Gorgeous aromatics of game, black fruit, bittersweet chocolate, and black tea. Rich, intense blackberry flavors on a wine with a textured mouthfeel. A long, lingering finish. A wine to linger over. 90% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from February 8th to 14th. See previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

Wine Business.com writes asbout Precept acquiring Canoe Ridge and Sagelands.

Wines & Vines discusses wine myths from last week’s Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers conference. They also write about the growing Washington wine industry.


From the blogosphere…

Paul Gregutt writes about the sale of Canoe Ridge and Sagelands to Precept. He also writes about discussions at the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers meeting with a preview here.

Esquin writes about Ross Andrews.

The Wine Knows gives a reality check on Washington vs. California.

Enobytes.com writes about Cana’s Feast.

Woodinville Wine Update writes that Passport 2011 tickets are on sale. Shona also writes about Valentine’s weekend, and Seattle Food and Wine Experience.

The Examiner.com writes about Taste Washington!

Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about the Seattle Food and Wine Experience. They also write that tis the season for chocolate and wine.

Aginfo.net writes about supporting the local wine industry. They also write about the record wine grape harvest.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Sinclair Estate Vineyards. Catie also writes about Otis Kenyon’s 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon and the Bergevin Lane She-Devil Syrah.

Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog writes about Cana’s Feast. Josh also gives monthly honors for January.

WINO Magazine writes about a dumb phase. They also write about wine and chocolate pairings in the Yakima Valley.

Northwest Cork & Fork writes about a love affair with Carmenere.

Terroirists write about Washington Hills Rainier Red.

Wine Peeps writes about Boudreaux Cellars. They also write about three unique wine clubs.

Wine & Dine Walla Walla writes about the sale of Canoe Ridge. They also write that Chateau Ste. Michelle is about more than just Riesling.


From the locals…

The Tri-City Herald writes about a fraud case involving a winery owner. They also write about Precept Wines acquiring Canoe Ridge and Sagelands.

The Kitsap sun writes about second label wines.

Bellevue Reporter writes about Taste Washington!

The Seattle Times writes about local wine and chocolate events.

The Olympian writes about Riesling.


That's all folks!

Okay Washington wine fans, it's that time of year again - Christmas in March as I like to call it. Taste Washington! Seattle is coming up March 26th and 27th. Taste Washington! has the largest selection of Washington wine at a single event and is the premier event of the year.

Taste Washington! is a weekend long affair. Saturday features a series of educational seminars. For those who have not attended these in the past, this is an excellent way to learn more about various aspects of Washington wine as well as to taste some great wines. Seminars this year include:

A Sort of Homecoming: Food and Wine Pairing with Michael Mina

Common Ground: A Seven Hills Vineyard Investigation

Ladies First: Women In Washington Wine

Washington’s Emerging Varieties: Grenache Panache

In Search Of: Washington’s Singular Style

Washington State Syrah: Yes, We Can!

What’s the Point(s)? Rating Washington State Wines

With A Rebel Yell: Washington’s Rock-n-Roll Winemakers

Read more about these seminars as well as ticket information here. I will be participating in two of the seminars this year - Grenache Panache and What's the Point(s)?

Sunday is the Grand Tasting at Quest Field Event Center. More than 200 Washington wineries will be on hand pouring their wines and 75 area restaurants will be providing food. See the list of participating wineries here (Note: there's also links on the winery page to Twitter and Facebook pages) and the list of participating restaurants here.

VIP admission to the Grand Tasting is from 2-4 ($125) and General Admission goes from 4-7 ($75). Tickets are available at various area retailers as well as through Ticketmaster. See the complete list of retailers here.

Hope to see you there!

Today’s Fresh Sheet – new and recent Washington wine releases – contains wines from Sparkman Cellars, Mark Ryan Winery, Ross Andrew Winery, SuLei Cellars, and Whitestone Winery.

Sparkman Cellars

I sung the praises of Sparkman Cellars recently. I am here to sing them again on two new releases from the winery.

The first is the 2008 Kindred Red Wine. A quick look at the fruit sources tells you most of what you need to know about this wine – DuBrul, Hedges, Klipsun, Kiona, Sheridan, and Two Blondes. The price point tells you the rest - $20.

The 2008 Ruckus is mostly Syrah with a healthy dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit all comes from Klipsun – one of Red Mountain’s finest. The result is an incredibly compelling expression of Red Mountain fruit. At $32, this is a run-don’t-walk wine. Check that. Get in the car and drive.

Sparkman Cellars Kindred Red Blend Columbia Valley 2008 $20
Rating: * (Excellent) A complex aroma profile of red and black fruit along with earth and mineral notes. The palate has a tight core of cherry fruit wrapped in chocolate along with firm tannins. An outrageous value at this price. 57% Merlot (DuBrul, Hedges, Klipsun), 22% Cabernet Sauvignon (Sheridan, Two Blondes), 13% Cabernet Franc (Two Blondes, Kiona), 8% Malbec (Klipsun). Sampled at 60 degrees.

Sparkman Cellars Ruckus Syrah Red Mountain 2008 $32
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Locked up tight at present with blackberries, blueberries, game, floral notes, and penetrating mineral aromas. On the palate, a big, rich, chewy wine with expansive fruit flavors, a dense core of tannins, and a seemingly endless finish. 87% Klipsun Syrah, 13% Klipsun Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 15 months in French oak (45% new). 14.9% alcohol. 223 cases produced. Sampled at 60 degrees (suggested 62).

Mark Ryan Winery

Mark McNeilly of Mark Ryan Winery continues his tradition of big, bold, in-your-face wines with the 2008 vintage releases. Of note, McNeilly has a new second label wine – ‘The Vincent’, which is a Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Also, The Dissident is now under the Mark Ryan label.

Mark Ryan Winery ‘The Dissident’ Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $32
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) This is the best Dissident offering from Mark Ryan yet. The wine is deliciously rich with raspberries, chocolate, and cherries accented by herbal flavors. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Syrah, 20% Merlot.

Board Track Racer ‘The Vincent’ Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $20
Rating: + (Good) Pretty floral aromatics mix with game and black fruit. The palate is loaded with blackberry, cherry flavors, and mint along with tacky tannins. A lot of wine for the money. 60% Syrah, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Recommended.

Mark Ryan Winery ‘Wild Eyed’ Syrah Red Mountain 2008 $48
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with blackberry compote, mineral, and light game. The palate is rich with black fruit flavors and chewy tannins.

Mark Ryan Winery Long Haul Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An expressive wine with mineral, carob, rose hips, and high toned red fruit. The palate is rich and dense with sinewy red fruit flavors and a firm scaffolding of tannins. 63% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 11% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec.

Mark Ryan Winery Dead Horse Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromatics of high toned red fruit along with rose hips and raspberries. Big and bold on the palate with chalky tannins. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, and 2% Malbec.

Mark Ryan Winery Water Witch Klipsun Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Aromas of anise, spice, and black cherry rise up from the glass. A big wine full of grip with persistent red fruit flavors. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, and 4% Malbec.

Ross Andrew Winery

Yesterday I wrote about the Glaze Cabernet Sauvignon produced by Ross Mickel of Ross Andrew Winery. Today, we look at a few current releases from Mickel’s winery.

While each wine below shows a great deal of finesse, the most compelling of the group is the 2008 Boushey Syrah. Syrah has made a name for itself of late in Washington, and Boushey Vineyard is unquestionably one of the state’s best sites. Here Mickel provides a beautiful reflection of the vineyard that comes in at a price point a good bit lower than many you will find on the shelves. This wine also displays excellent long-term cellaring potential.

Ross Andrew Winery Pinot Gris Celilo Vineyard Columbia Gorge 2009 $18
Rating: * (Excellent) Loads of Granny Smith apples and nectarines on this plush, forward wine that shows mouthwatering acidity and beautiful mineral accents. 100% Pinot Gris (1975 block). Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.5% alcohol. 551 cases produced. Sampled at 60 degrees.

Ross Andrew Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2006 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Appealing aromatics of toast, roasted nuts, char, and red and black fruit. Winding fruit flavors are accented by herbal notes accompanied by a stiff tannin profile. The finish lingers on this beautifully balanced wine. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot. Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval and Alder Ridge vineyards. Aged in French oak for 19 months. 13.9% alcohol.

Ross Andrew Winery Syrah Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley 2008 $34
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Compelling, Boushey-only aromatics of funk, char, roasted meat, blueberries, and hints of violets. Dense and rich fruit flavors on a wine with vibrant acidity. Drinks above its price point and has a very long life ahead of it. Aged 14 months in French oak. 13.8% alcohol. 551 cases produced.

SuLei Cellars

SuLei Cellars (pronounced soo-lay) was founded by winemaker Tanya Woodley and Elaine Jomwe. The word SuLei is both intended to express the partnership of the proprietors and also to serve as a synonym for Sulis Minerva, a Celtic Mother Goddess.

Woodley is a graduate of the Walla Walla Community College’s Enology & Viticulture program and spent four years under Steve Lessard at Whitman Cellars (recently closed) before starting the winery.

SuLei Cellars Roussanne Walla Walla Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) Lightly aromatic with hay, floral, and mineral notes. Tart, rounded, and acidic on the palate. Cockburn Hills Vineyard. Fermented in stainless steel. Aged in neutral French oak. 13.2% alcohol. 115 cases produced.

SuLei Cellars Roller Girl Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $17
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Aromatics show a fair amount of oak influence along with cherry and abundant herbal notes, which occasionally come off as green. The palate is nicely balanced with refreshingly low alcohol. 48% Cabernet Franc, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot. Aged in French and American oak (50% new). Lodmell and Les Collines vineyards. 13.7% alcohol. 115 cases produced. Sampled at 70 degrees.

SuLei Cellars Beet Red Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2007 $19
Rating: + (Good) Dark in color. Shows abundant cherry aromas, light green notes, and pencil shavings. The palate has rich, pure cherry fruit flavors and a very pretty balance. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Syrah. Frol, Les Collines, and Valley Grove vineyards. 500 cases produced.

Onesies

Whitestone Cabernet Sauvignon Haig Family Estate Wine Lake Roosevelt Shores Vineyard Columbia Valley 2007 $28
Rating: . (Decent) Abundant smoke, toast, spice, and herbal notes with an underlayer of cherry fruit and black licorice. Palate brings a lot of cherry fruit flavors along with licorice. Loses some of its rhythm about half way through. 14.1% alcohol.

A special Valentine's Day Five Under $15 because in tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

A great group of value wines this month. The first is the 2008 Glaze Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine was made by Ross Mickel of Ross Andrew Winery in Woodinville, Washington. Mickel spent nine years as assistant winemaker at Betz Family Winery before starting his own winery. The 2008 Glaze Cabernet is good enough that, even though the winery’s name is not on the label, they were pouring it at the tasting room on a recent visit. While the tannins are a bit drying, this wine delivers well above its $15 price point.

The Kiona Vineyards & Winery Reserve Dry Riesling is the first release I have seen from the 2010 vintage. The grapes comes from Kiona’s original 1975 vineyard planting. This wine is further evidence of Riesling’s adaptability. It can grow well in vineyards on Red Mountain as well as cooler sites, such as Evergreen Vineyard. In both, it displays both varietal characteristics as well as the character of the particular site. This is part of what makes this grape, Washington’s most produced in 2010 and consistently the state's highest QPR varietal, so compelling.

The next two wines come from Pacific Rim Winery. Both of these white wines are current releases but have a few years of bottle age on them, which makes them particularly interesting for the wine consumer. For $10, you’re seldom find wines more enjoyable than these two offerings.

While Pacific Rim focuses most of its attention on Riesling, it also makes a few other wines such as this 2007 Chenin Blanc. Sadly Chenin Blanc is far from consumer’s attention at present and also fails to command high prices either from the vineyard or from the winery. For this reason, many vineyards have been pulling Chenin vines in recent years in Washington and elsewhere. This is a shame as the varietal clearly does well here as evidenced by bottles from Hestia Cellars, Cedergreen Cellars, McKinley Springs, and L’Ecole No. 41 to name just a few.

The 2008 Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Riesling is another delicious value-priced bottle from this winery. The Traditions wines come with tear away recipe links on the back label. The one that accompanies this wine is for Whole Avocado Stuffed with Crabmeat.

Of note, I picked up the Glaze Cabernet Sauvignon and Milbrandt Riesling from Seattle’s Full Pull Wines. Owner and friend Paul Zitarelli continues to find high quality wines for his mailing list customers across a wide range of price points.

Glaze Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $15
Rating: +/* (Excellent) Compelling aromas of blackberry, black licorice, wood notes, and spice along with an underlayer of herbal notes. The palate is fruit forward and full of black fruit flavors accented by dry – and somewhat drying - chalky tannins. Finishes a touch hot, surprising given the 13.6% percent alcohol listed, but this wine is a big, big winner at this price point.

Kiona Wine Reserve Dry Riesling Red Mountain 2010 $15
Rating: + (Good) Pretty aromatics of floral notes, tangerines, pear, and hints of tropical fruit. The palate is dry but with a lot of sweet fruit flavors and a full mouthfeel. 13% alcohol. Recommended.

Pacific Rim Chenin Blanc Columbia Valley 2007 $10
Rating: + (Good) Straw, pear, honey, and mineral notes on an appealing aroma profile. Palate has mouthwatering acidity, a touch of sweetness, and a full mouthfeel. 13.1% alcohol. 1.27% Residual Sugar. Recommended.

Pacific Rim Dry Riesling Columbia Valley 2007 $10
Rating: + (Good) A very pleasing aroma profile of light diesel, jasmine, honey, and lees notes. Dry and crisp on the palate with mouthwatering, lemony acidity. Alcohol 12.5%. Residual Sugar .75% pH: 3.21 TA:0.73. Recommended.

Milbrandt Traditions Riesling 2008 Columbia Valley $13
Rating: + (Good) Appealing aromas of lemon, honey, yellow apple, and citrus. A full and fleshy feel on the palate on this off-dry style wine, stitched together with a tart finish. 12.5% alcohol. Recommended.

A roundup of stories on Washington wine from February 1st to 7th. See previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

The San Angelo Standard Times looks for Washington’s best wine vines.

Wine Spectator writes about the Waterbrook 2007 Reserve Merlot.

Bloomberg Business Week writes about the Abeja Chardonnay.

The Epoch Times writes about food and wine pairing with a callout to the 2007 Doyenne Roussanne.

Sunset Magazine writes about urban wineries with a callout to Seattle’s Bartholomew Winery.

KnoxNews.com recommends the 2008 14 Hands Cabernet.

The Oxford Times writes about wines from Washington and Oregon with a callout to Gramercy Cellars.


From the blogosphere…

Wine & Beer of Washington State writes about upcoming wine and chocolate events.

Northstar Winery gives Chapter Six of the Big Dipper Chronicles.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about the 2006 Otis Keyon Cabernet Sauvignon.

Paul Gregutt writes about the trend toward Euro-styled wines.

Family Wineries of Washington State gives a legislative update.

Michael Green writes about Lemberger.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Valentine’s Day weekend events and area events through February 10^th. Shona also writes about the return of the Iron Vintner’s Challenge.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Hamilton Cellars.

Under the Grape Tree writes about the Dunham.

Amateur Wino writes about Reynvaan Family Vineyards.

The Oregon Wine Blog writes about exploring Seattle. They also write about the upcoming Seattle Food & Wine Experience.

Wine Peeps writes about Three Rivers Winery.

PineIsland-Eagle.com writes about the 2008 Columbia Chardonnay.

Write for Wine writes about Darby.

WINO Magazine writes about the Seattle Food & Wine Experience. They also write about Patterson Cellars’ new tasting room, ask whether loving wine makes you debonair, and write about Hestia Cellars’ variation on the winemaker dinner.

Cellar Mistress writes about Saint Laurent Winery.

One Rich Wine Guy writes about the closing of Whitman Cellars.

Sip of Spokane writes about new places to wine and dine in Spokane.

365 Things to Do in Walla Walla writes about Spring Valley Vineyards.

The Examiner.com writes about this year’s Taste Washington.

VinoComitatus’ Stray Thoughts writes about DeLille Cellars.

Ambassador of Wine writes about the 2002 Nota Bene Abbinare.

The Grumpy Winemaker asks whether the Washington wine industry can survive.

Yakima Valley Blog writes about the Rattlesnake Hills Valentine’s Day weekend event.

Woodinville Patch writes about Challenger Ridge trying new things to attract wine tourists.

365 Things to Do in Walla Walla Washington writes about Locati Cellars new tasting room location. They also write about Spring Valley Vineyard.


From the locals…

The Tri-City Herald writes about a new food and beverage staff at the Marcus Whitman. They also write about the record grape harvest, new tasting rooms opening in Walla Walla, and the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers conference.

The Seattle Weekly gives a beef tartare recipe from Chris Opsata of Urban Enoteca.

The Herald.net writes about the White House State dinner and Washington’s state drink.

The Puget Sound Business Journal writes about Small Lot Co-op.

The News Tribune writes about the 2010 grape harvest. They also talk with Steve Lessard, formerly of Whitman Cellars.

The Mercer Island Reporter writes about savoring wine country close to home.

The Bellingham Herald writes about upcoming wine and chocolate events.


That's all folks!

Today’s Fresh Sheet – reviews of new and recent Washington wine releases – includes wines from Olsen Estates, Gilbert Cellars, Silvara Vineyards, Gramercy Cellars, and Waterbrook.

Olsen Estates

Though it had long been rumored, it was still with great sadness that I read recently about the closing of Prosser’s Olsen Estates (see an article by Wine Press Northwest here and Paul Gregutt here). I first tasted two of the Olsen Estates wines at a Seattle Uncorked Debuts & Discoveries event back in 2009. And what a discovery they were. The two wines that I had – the 2007 Chardonnay and Petit Verdot – were among the best I have had of these particular varietals from Washington. Long-time readers of the blog will also remember that the winery’s 2007 Heritage Syrah came in 2^nd in the 2009 Reader Survey Wine of the Year.

I noted back in my original post on the winery that the wines were somewhat difficult to find. Alas, distribution problems and the Great Recession led to the winery’s demise. This is beyond a shame. The Olsens are a multi-generational farming family and the wines, crafted by Kyle Johnson, were top notch. Thankfully, the Olsens will continue to grow fruit in the Yakima Valley from their large vineyard holdings. Fruit from these vineyards are going into an increasing number of high profile wines, including Betz Family Winery where Olsen fruit makes up part of the Besoleil.

The hallmark of the Olsen Estates wines is rich, intense fruit flavors. While these wines will be the last, they are still wines to seek out. Those listed below are at the discounted price after the announcement of the winery’s closure except where noted.

We wish them well.

Olsen Estates Merlot Yakima Valley 2008 $20
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. Aromas of coffee bean, currant, red fruit, and herbal notes rise up from the glass. The palate has rich, voluptuous fruit and a bit lighter structure than seen in many Washington Merlots. 100% Merlot. Aged in French oak (100% new) for 16 months. 14.4% alcohol. 337 cases produced.

Olsen Estates Golden Berry Select Riesling Yakima Valley 2007 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Beautifully rich aromatics of sugared pineapple and apricots. The palate is rich and thick, layered with sugar and sweet fruit flavors. You can literally feel this wine slide down your throat it is so thick. 46.6% Residual Sugar. 7.1% alcohol. 120 cases produced.

Olsen Estates Grenache Vineyard Select Yakima Valley 2008 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of fresh raspberry compote and red currant mix with spice. The palate has a textured feel with rich, ripe red fruit flavors. 100% Grenache. Aged in French oak for 16 months. 15.4% alcohol. Note: Price is prior to closure announcement.

Olsen Estates Petit Verdot Yakima Valley 2008 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Somewhat closed up aromatically at present with earth, blackberry, stem notes, and licorice. The palate is rich and luscious with layers of intense fruit flavors. 100% Petit Verdot. Aged in French oak (78% new) for 16 months. 14.4% alcohol. 221 cases produced. Note: Price is prior to closure announcement.

Olsen Estates Malbec Yakima Valley 2008 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) A very pretty, varietally correct aroma profile with spicy plum and pepper. On the palate, intensely rich and focused fruit flavors. Note: Price is prior to closure announcement.


Gilbert Cellars

Gilbert Cellars is one of a handful of wineries located in downtown Yakima. The Gilbert family’s roots in the Yakima Valley date back to 1897. With a long agrarian history, the family planted their first wine grapes in 2003. The Gilberts now use fruit from vineyards in the Wahluke Slope, Yakima Valley, and Horse Heaven Hills. Of note, the winery’s tasting room features live music and seasonal food specials.

Gilbert Cellars Rose of Mourvedre Wahluke Slope 2009 $15
Rating: . (Decent) Appealing aromas of strawberry, spice, and mineral. The palate is dry and tart with a slightly bitter note toward the finish. 100% Mourvedre. 24k vineyard. 13.5% alcohol. 270 cases produced.

Gilbert Cellars Unoaked Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $20
Rating: . (Decent) Clear in color. Restrained aromatics marked by hay, citrus notes, and spice. The palate has abundant Granny Smith apple flavors. 100% Chardonnay. Four Feathers Vineyard. 13.5% alcohol. 268 cases produced.

Gilbert Cellars Riesling Columbia Valley 2008 $12
Rating: . (Decent) Light diesel aromas mix with floral notes and freshly cut ripe apples. The palate has a fair amount of sweetness and abundant apple flavors. 100% Riesling. Stone Ridge Vineyard. 12.5% alcohol. 328 cases produced.

Gilbert Cellars Allobroges Wahluke Slope 2007 $20
Rating: + (Good) Aromatics are marked by sweet oak spices, light game, pepper, toast, and red fruit. The palate is extremely dry with abundant fresh red fruit flavors. Tannins are a bit drying. 57% Syrah, 31% Mourvedre, 14% Grenache.

Gilbert Cellars Estate Syrah Wahluke Slope 2007 $24
Rating: . (Decent) Aromatics of smoke, embers, and blueberries along with a touch of raspberries. The tannins come off as quite aggressive and oak make it a bit difficult to get at the fruit at times. Doc Stewart Vineyard.

Gilbert Cellars Estate Malbec Wahluke Slope 2007 $24
Rating: . (Decent) Aromatics marked by dark fruit, plum, black licorice, and pepper. The palate shows a lot of oak influence. Tannins come off as quite aggressive.

Gilbert Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope 2007 $28
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) A clean aroma profile with blackberries, raspberries, and licorice. The palate has a rich, full feel with grippy tannins and a tart finish. Oak gets a bit intense at times.

Gilbert Cellars Petit Verdot Wahluke Slope 2007 $36
Rating: + (Good) An appealing aroma profile with floral notes and earth with a layer of cherry fruit underneath. Big, bold and tart on the palate with a firm scaffolding of tannins.


Silvara Vineyards

Silvara Vineyards, which opened in October of 2009, is one of the newer - and more promising - wineries to open up in the Leavenworth area of late. The winery was founded by Gary Seidler - a UC Davis graduate - and Cindy Rarick.

Silvara is located two miles east of town and is perched high on a hill with a commanding view of the surrounding area. The grounds are immaculately landscaped and the tasting room takes advantage of the area’s natural beauty. The winery has plans for a small vineyard at the site along with a wine cave.

Silvara produces 1,200 cases annually with the goal of increasing to 3,000 over time.

Silvara Vineyards Riesling Washington State 2008 $18
Rating: + (Good) Aromatics are marked by yellow and red apples along with light tropical fruit. Clean, crisp, and almost completely dry on the palate.

Silvara Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope 2007 $30
Rating: + (Good) Please oak spices pair with cherries, milk chocolate, red fruit, and vanilla. The palate shows a fair amount of oak but its well integrated and the fruit flavors are fresh and lively. Quite light bodied for a cabernet.

Onesies

While Gramercy Cellars has made its name on the strength of its dazzling Syrahs (although the Cabernet, Grenache, and Tempranillo have devoted followings as well), the winery actually works with more Cabernet and Bordeaux varietals than anything else at present. Gramercy works with building blocks from throughout Washington’s numerous growing areas. The results have previously gone into the winery’s Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Whatever hasn’t fit into this program has gone off into the ethos. With the Lower East Cabernet, Gramercy has now taken the best of rest and put it out in a Cabernet of both high quality and a compelling price point.

Gramercy Cellars Lower East Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Columbia Valley $32
Rating: * (Excellent) The aromatics are restrained with dust, ripe cherries, anise, mint and a dusting of dry chocolate. The palate is dry with underlayers of herbal notes and cherry, accented by tart acidity and silky tannins and a slightly sour finish. Cabernet, Merlot. 13.9% alcohol. 400 cases produced. Sample provided by winery


The 2008 offering of the Waterbrook Melange Noir displays a radical label change for the winery, which has gone with a cleaner, more classic style.

Waterbrook Winery Melange Noir Columbia Valley 2008 $18
Rating: + (Good) Lightly aromatic with raspberries, black cherries, light herbal notes, and a kiss of chocolate. On the taste, tart and forward on the oak but also shows pleasing fruit flavors. Opens up nicely. Finishes a little short. 33% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Syrah, 11% Malbec, 7% Sangiovese, and 11% other varieties (Tempranillo, PV, Cab Franc, Counoise, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Petit Syrah, Carignan). Aged in American, French, and Hungarian oak (23% new). 13.4% alcohol. 25,500 cases produced.