Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report Note: Site has moved to www.northwestwinereport.com

Below is a summary of posts for November 2010.

Summary of Posts for October 2010

2010 Harvest Report - November 3rd Edition

Initiatives 1100 and 1105 both fail. What now?

Washington Wine Round-up October 22nd to 31st

November Virtual Tasting - 2009 Owen Roe Abbot's Table

Cayuse Vineyards - A flawed wine or a writer’s flawed argument?

20Something - The New Vintage

Washington Wine Round-up November 1st to 7th

Full Pull Wines - The life of a small business one year in

Watch out W2 - Here comes the Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman

Tonight! November Virtual Tasting - 2009 Owen Roe Abbot’s Table

Fresh Sheet November 18th - Reviews of recent and new releases

Washington Wine Round-up November 8th to 14th

Thanksgiving wine recommendations

Washington wine: Fair prices, great scores, and low availability

Washington Wine Round-up November 15th to 21st

Five Under Fifteen - November

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

Barnard Griffin is one of Washington State’s value standard bearers. The winery makes a wide variety of wines in the value range. These wines are consistently well made with some reaching considerably higher. The 2009 Rosé of Sangiovese is one of the more pleasing rosés you will find from Washington. The wine is fresh and crisp with mouthwatering acidity. While it may not reach the heights of the great French rosés, the price point is more reminiscent of these wines than most of what is seen in the state.

Bottles of Washington State Malbec in a value price range are near impossible to find. Finding one that delivers the kind of quality that can stand alongside the slew of Argentinean Malbec that lines the shelves is unheard of. The Renegade Wine Co. Malbec is just that. While not necessarily a prototype of the varietal in Washington, this is a polished wine that delivers quality well above its price point.

In just thirteen years Milbrandt Vineyards has created a small empire. The Milbrandt family first came to the area as homesteaders, purchasing a small parcel of land for $40 an acre. In 1997, brothers Butch and Jerry Milbrandt decided to get into the grape growing business. They now have thirteen different vineyards, many located on the Wahluke Slope, totaling almost 1,600 acres. The winery started in 2007 with Gordon Hill serving as winemaker.

Domaine Ste. Michelle is a Ste. Michelle Wine Estates holding which focuses on sparkling wines made in the Méthode champenoise. The winery produces Blanc de Blanc, Blanc de Noir, Brut, and Extra Dry wines. The Luxe is the winery’s top label. Rick Casqueiro serves as winemaker. These make for excellent holiday wines at a reasonable price point.

Red Diamond is also a Ste. Michelle Wine Estates holding. The winery makes four wines, all in the value range – a Cabernet, a Merlot, a Shiraz, and a Chardonnay (see a review of the Merlot here).

Barnard Griffin Rosé of Sangiovese Columbia Valley 2009 $12
Rating: * (Excellent) Light cherry red in color. An aromatic nose with bubble gum, ripe red cherries, strawberries, and watermelon. The palate is dry and crisp with mouthwatering acidity. Fermented in stainless steel. 12.4% alcohol. 7,580 cases produced.

Renegade Wine Co. Malbec Yakima Valley 2008 $15
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Smoke, toasty oak, and spice on a nose that immediately introduces itself as a wine of some pedigree. The palate is understated but extremely well put together with a lot of dark fruit flavors and a chalky feel. Not necessarily the most prototypic varietal Malbec but a very, very well made wine for this price point.

Milbrandt Traditions Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $14
Rating: + (Good) A lightly aromatic nose marked by chocolate, licorice, caramel, herbal notes, and dust. Palate boasts a fair amount of grip and dark chocolate notes on a very varietal expression of Washington State Cabernet. Tannins are a bit drying but the wine delivers a lot of bang for the buck. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec. Aged 10-14 months in French and American oak (70% new). 13.5% alcohol. 9,061 cases produced. Recommended.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Columbia Valley NV $13
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) A straightforward but pleasing nose with lemon and lime aromas and light bread notes. On the palate, crisp, clean and acidic. 88% Chardonnay 12% Pinot Noir. 1.19% Residual Sugar. 12.1% alcohol.

Red Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State 2008 $10
Rating: . (Decent) Ash, toast, red fruit, and chocolate on a wine with a somewhat unusual aroma profile. The palate is marked by cranberry flavors and has an almost sweet taste to it. Cabernet Sauvignon with small amounts of Merlot and Syrah. Aged in a mix of American and French oak barrels for 12 months. 13.5% alcohol.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from November 15th to 21st. See previous round-ups here.

From around the world…

The Vancouver Sun writes about The Inn at Langely.


From around the country…

Bloomberg writes about Thanksgiving wines with a shout out to Gramercy and Hogue Cellars.

The Richmond Times-Dispatch writes about Thanksgiving wines with a callout to Patit Creek Cellars.


From the blogosphere…

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine takes a stroll to Nicolas Cole. Catie also writes about Long Shadows Nine Hats.

Sips & The City writes about the Taste of Tulalip.

Under the Grape Tree gives a top 50 for 2010 with a shout out to some Washington wines and a random gathering of zinfandels.

Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog asks whether going pro means the end of credibility.

AZ Central makes a Thanksgiving wine list with a shout out to Columbia Winery’s Cellarmaster Riesling.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Brian Carter Cellars Opulento. Shona also writes about St. Nick’s Weekend, more tasting rooms coming to Woodinville, and a potential fee on delivery orders from distributors.

Paul Gregutt bids farewell to the HoseMaster of Wine.

Vinotology stops by Ava Wine Rooms. Ben also writes about Bin No. 20.

South Florida Gourmet writes about Spring Valley Vineyards.

Wine Peeps writes about Washington wine available in San Jose.

Washington Wine writes about Covey Run’s Sauvignon Blanc.

Wine & Dine Walla Walla writes about a little bit of sugar and a whole lot of fire. They also write about Russell Creek winning a ‘best in show’ award at the Tri-Cities Wine Festival.

Examiner.com writes about Waters Winery 2007 Forgotten Hills Syrah.

WINO Magazine writes about the Taste of Tulalip.

Wine with Karl makes a trip to two Washington wineries.

Sip of Spokane gives a seafood chowder recipe. They also write about guacamole and the 2008 Nodland Bebop.


From the locals…

The Yakima Herald writes about the French Paradox giving the wine industry a boost.

Spokane Wine Magazine writes about the Holiday Wine Festival.

The Spokesman-Review writes about Emvy Cellars.

Tri-Cities Area Journal of Business writes about construction at a new Richland winery.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Zins and blends.

OregonLive.com gives a Walla Walla holiday wine guide. They also give one for the Columbia Gorge, Columbia Valley, and Horse Heaven Hills.

East Oregonian writes about wines to be thankful for.


Leftovers (stories missed from previous weeks)…

Burien KOMO writes about E.B. Foote.

That's all folks!

Tis the time of year for Top 100 lists with Wine Spectator’s annual list released earlier this week. While Washington wines were reasonably well represented this year with six wines featured, several readers wrote to me, surprised that there were not more Washington wines represented or that specific wines were not listed.

Although six wines is a reasonably good showing, low production of many of the most highly rated wines made it considerably less likely that these wines would appear in Wine Spectator's annual Top 100 list, despite Washington's overall fair prices and great scores. In fact, low availability is somewhat problematic for the industry more generally, making it difficult to get many of Washington's best wines wines to interested consumers.

Of course, no single list can touch on all of the best wines of the year from a single area let alone the world. In 2010, Wine Spectator reviewed almost 16,000 wines of which 3,900 received ratings of 90 points or higher. In 2010, 327 Washington wines received such a rating (8% of the total). This makes choosing the top 100 wines somewhat difficult.

Wine Spectator composes its annual Top 100 list based on quality (represented by score), value (price), availability (cases produced/imported), and an X factor that the publication refers to as excitement. For the last ten years Wine Spectator's Top 100 list has featured between 2 and 9 Washington wines. Last year was the high water mark with one wine, Columbia Crest’s 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, named ‘Wine of the Year.’

Below is the list of 2010 Washington wines in the top 100 and their associated information (X-factor is not provided by the publication). Note that Wine Spectator has free access until November 28^th so you can access the entire list, even if you are not a subscriber, until that time here.

Wine	Score	Price	Cases produced
Owen Roe Syrah Yakima Valley Red Willow Vineyard Chapel Block 2008	97	$45	359 cases
Goose Ridge Vireo Columbia Valley 2006	93	$25	900 cases
Columbia Crest Merlot Horse Heaven Hills H3 2007	91	$15	30,000 cases
Waterbrook Merlot Columbia Valley Reserve 2007	92	$22	3,030 cases
Tamarack Firehouse Red Columbia Valley 2008	90	$16	15,000 cases
Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007	95	$82	600 cases

While making this list represents an accomplishment for each of these wineries, perhaps the most notable of the wines listed this year – given that it is the winery’s first vintage - is the Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon. Doubleback was started by Walla Walla native and former NFL quarterback Drew Bledsoe. Chris Figgins of Figgins Family Wine Estates, whose portfolio includes Leonetti Cellar, serves as consulting winemaker (see a Focus report on Doubleback here).

Looking at the 2010 Washington wines listed shows a mixture of somewhat higher scoring wines that are low production wines, such as the Owen Roe Syrah, as well as somewhat lower scoring, high production wines, such as the Tamarack Firehouse Red. While the list shows a balance of higher production and lower production wines, I do believe that having so many low production wines in Washington makes it less likely that these wines will crack the Top 100 list.

To illustrate the low availability of many of the most highly rated wines, I have listed below information about Washington wines that rated 95 points or above in Wine Spectator in 2010. As some of these reviews are included in the current issue of the magazine, I am listing the associated information but not the wine names (see below for further information about this issue).

Wine	Score	Price	Cases produced
A	97	$65	388
B	97	$75	100
C	97	$45	359
D	97	$100	500
E	96	$35	243
F	95	$32	271
G	95	$55	565
H	95	$75	476
I	95	$65	792
J	95	$65	382
K	95	$35	120
L	95	$120	500
M	95	$82	600
N	95	$60	225
O	95	$60	187
P	95	$60	214
Q	95	$38	382

Of note, the production of all of these wines is lower than 1,000 cases with many below 500 cases. By comparison, Wine Spectator rated 347 wines 95 points or higher in 2010. 81 of these wines (23%) have production above 1,000 cases. Numbers like these put Washington at a bit of a disadvantage in terms of making Wine Spectator's annual top 100 list. This is assuming, of course, all other things being equal such as price, excitement, etc which of course they are not.

Several other wines that received very high scores in 2010, notably those from Cayuse Vineyards, K Vintners, and Grand Reve Vintners, did not make Wine Spectator's 2010 Top 100 list. While I personally would have liked to see these wines listed, the availability factor - which was low in all cases - no doubt made it less likely.

Realistically, low availability is a more general problem for the Washington wine industry. Washington wines are generally highly rated and well priced, but many are very difficult for consumers to find because many are made in microscopic amounts. This makes it difficult to get broad consumer access and awareness, especially the kind of awareness that comes from lists like these. This will remain a challenge for the industry, although it is also a strength in some respects as well.

Bottom line, despite the the fair prices and great scores, don’t expect Washington wines to be dominating Wine Spectator’s annual Top 100 list any time soon. With production numbers like these, it just won’t happen given the criteria the publication uses. I'll take six wines.

For old school folks (I include myself in this group), the print version of the Top 100 list will be included in Wine Spectator’s end of year issue. However, the December 15^th issue, which is on newsstands now, contains a cover article on Washington wine (“Discover Washington: Pure flavors, Distinctive Character, Fair Prices”). In addition to several articles, the issue contains an alphabetical listing of 675 Washington wine reviews – a perfect Thanksgiving weekend page-turner.

Well folks, another year has gone by and time once again to make some Thanksgiving wine recommendations.

Thanksgiving pairings can be somewhat challenging given the variety of different dishes on the table. However, this makes for a good reason to get an assortment of wines (this can help with the relatives also).

Thanksgiving wines can run the gamut from sparkling to white, rosé, and red. Here, I’ll focus on rosé and red wines. In terms of rosés, I always recommend staying on the dry side. The Barnard Griffin 2009 Rose of Sangiovese ($12) is just the ticket for the holiday. The wine is visually appealing in the bottle with a light cherry red color. In the glass, it is loaded with fresh fruit flavors and has mouthwatering acidity.

In terms of reds, I generally recommend going with lighter bodied wines with a lot of fresh fruit and that hasn’t seen a whole lot of oak. I would also recommend staying away from wines that are strongly tannic.

Pinot Noir is always a Thanksgiving favorite. While this grape has somewhat bedeviled Washington winemakers, two I recommend for the holiday are the Syncline Wine Cellars 2008 Columbia Gorge Pinot Noir ($28) – which I believe to be the standard bearer for Washington Pinot – and Kyra Wines 2008 Pinot Noir ($18).

Two other wines from these wineries also deserve a place at this year’s Thanksgiving table. The first is a perennial favorite, the Syncline Cellars Subduction Red ($18). The 2009 offering is a Mourvedre-heavy Southern Rhone blend. The second is Kyra Wines 2009 Dolcetto ($18). A native grape to the Piedmont area, this is again a fresh fruit driven wine. I recommend serving the latter on the cooler side around 62 degrees.

If you’ve already got your wines all picked out for the occasion, leave a comment and let me know what you’ll be having.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Barnard Griffin Rose of Sangiovese Columbia Valley 2009 $12
Rating: * (Excellent) Light cherry red in color. An aromatic nose with bubble gum, ripe red cherries, strawberries, and watermelon. The palate is dry and crisp with mouthwatering acidity.

Kyra Wines Dolcetto Purple Sage Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) Nose shows light vanilla, red currant, and fresh red fruit. Taste is bright, full of fresh fruit, sour cherries, and a rounded mouthfeel. Finish improves at a slightly cooler temperature. 100% Dolcetto. Pressed into neutral barrels for fermentation. Bottled after 9 months. 14.2% alcohol. 118 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Syncline Subduction Red Columbia Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) A lightly aromatic nose with white pepper, red fruit, and spice. On the palate, full and round with a plush feel. 39% Mourvedre, 19% Counoise, 17% Syrah, 16% Grenache, 6% Cinsault, and 3% Carignan. 14.2% alcohol. 1,488 cases produced.

Previously Reviewed

Syncline Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge 2008 $28

Kyra Wines Pinot Noir Washington State 2008 $18

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from November 8^th to 14^th. See previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

The Palm Beach Post writes about the 2007 Spring Valley Frederick.

MSNBC writes about distributors wanting to charge wine stores more for small orders.

Wine Spectator writes about Northstar Merlot.

NPR writes about Washington State banning alcoholic energy drinks.


From the blogosphere…

Paul Gregutt writes about the design of contemporary wine labels. He also write about responses to recent comments about Washington Chardonnay.

Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog writes part III of grape to glass. Josh also writes about Maryhill, using Twitter to fight city hall, and looks back at a year of wine blogging.

Yak Yak Wine sends grandma to boot camp.

Sips & The City writes about the upcoming 20Something event.

Vinotology gives the good, the bad, and the ugly. Ben also writes about Alexandria Nicole’s Mourvedre and Alexandria Nicole.

Wine Peeps asks whether wine ratings are good or bad. They also write about Domaine Ste. Michelle, a Cabernet Sauvignon dinner, a challenging wine pairing, and Cayuse Vineyards.

Sip of Spokane writes about EMVY and GRC BridgePress. They also write about Syrah, Sirah, and Shiraz.

The Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman gives a video tour of her new wine store.

Wine & Beer of Washington State writes about Gusto and the Taste of Tulalip.

The Oregon Wine Blog writes about Grape Encounters.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Columbia Winery’s ‘A Taste of Red.’ Shona also writes about Washington wine at Bartells.

WINO Magazine writes about Jed Steele. They also write about Nicolas Cole.

The Terroirists write about terroir.

Washington Wine writes about the 2006 Covey Run Cabernet. They also write about Washington wine at BGO.

WiredVC writes about the Zino Society.

Life Between the Vines interviews Chad Johnson of Dusted Valley.

Crosscut.com writes about the Washington Liquor Control Board facing new issues.

Cornichon.org writes about the LCB.

Wine Foot writes about the Tri-Cities Wine Festival. They also write about the Long Shadows release party.

Wine Cellars Club writes about the 2007 L’Ecole No. 41 Perigee.

Blog Critics writes about Walla Walla.

Wine Lovers Blog writes about Washington State.

Washington Wine Diva interviews Jack Colby of @NWWines.


From the locals…

The Walla Walla Union Bulletin writes about Russell Creek.

The Seattle Times writes about Rusty Figgins. They also write about Catherine Reynolds.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt suggests some holiday wines.

KING5 writes about distributors looking to charge higher fees.

The Puget Sound Business Journal writes about Washington State law firms putting money into wineries.

The News Tribune recommends Thanksgiving wines with a shout out to Pacific Rim’s Autumnus.

The Tri-City Herald writes about the Tri-Cities Wine Festival.

That's all folks!

Today’s Fresh Sheet - reviews of recent and current Washington wine releases – includes wines from Helix, Reininger, Seven Hills Winery, Columbia Crest, and Dowsett Family Winery.

Helix & Reininger

Bonded in 1997, Reininger Winery was the tenth winery in Walla Walla. Although these historical pole positions are always argued over, it is inarguable that this makes the winery one of the older players in an area that now boasts over one hundred wineries.

For his eponymous wines, winemaker Chuck Reininger focuses exclusively on wines from the Walla Walla Valley. The Helix label, named after a genus of snail, was launched late in 2004. Fruit for these wines comes from the Columbia Valley. As noted below, some of the Helix wines are single vineyard.

Reininger produces 3,000 cases; Helix produces approximately 7,000 cases annually.

Helix Pomatia Red Wine Columbia Valley 2006 $16
Rating: + (Good) Lots of pretty herbal notes, smoke, some green notes, and currant on the nose. The palate is clean and well put together with a slight dip in the mid- palate. 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 25% Syrah, and 11% Cabernet Franc. Ash Hollow, Bacchus, Chelleden, Clifton Hill, Patina, Phinney Hill, Seven Hills, Stillwater Creek, Stone Tree, and Weinbau vineyards. Aged in American, French, Russian, and Hungarian oak (29% new). 3,274 cases produced.

Helix Sangiovese Columbia Valley 2005 $30
Rating: + (Good) Dark in color. Sweet red fruit notes and spice along with a dose of licorice on the nose. Has a lot of grip on the palate along with a blast of acidity. A bit of a sour note on the finish. A big, tannic wine. 100% Sangiovese. Stillwater Creek Vineyard. Aged in French oak (13% new). 480 cases produced.

Helix Merlot Columbia Valley 2007 $25
Rating: + (Good) A fascinating nose that shows a lot of smoky wood notes along with light milk chocolate and herbal notes. Brings a lot of cherry fruit flavors on the palate.

Helix Syrah Columbia Valley 2007 $27
Rating: * (Excellent) Pops on the nose with blueberries, smoke, and syrup. Big, rich, and syrupy on the palate. May be a little over-weighted for some. 100% Syrah. Clifton Hill, Phinny Hill, and Stone Tree vineyards. Aged in neutral French oak. 14.3% alcohol. 861 cases produced.

Reininger Chardonnay Stillwater Creek Columbia Valley 2008 $45
Rating: + (Good) This is Reininger’s first white wine since 2002. Natively fermented in 500 liter oak puncheons, it took a significantly long time to ferment and did not undergo malolactic fermentation. The nose is toasty with light grass aromas. The palate is rich and textured with abundant lemon flavors. Has a bit of a bite on the mid-palate and the oak shows through at times. Sampled at 57 degrees.

Reininger Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2006 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) A very pretty, intricate nose with layer aromatics of abundant red fruit, a whiff of mint, licorice, and a pleasing earthines. Clean and well put together with a good grip of tannins and fresh red fruit flavors. Dips just slightly 2/3 of the way through. 82% Merlot, 16% Cabernet, 2% Malbec. Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge vineyards. Aged in 67% American and 33% French oak (35% new). 636 cases produced.

Reininger Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Pops on the nose with red licorice, spice, red fruit, and chocolate. Dry and full of sinewy cranberry fruit flavors on a big, grippy palate. Capped off with a lingering finish. 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc. Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills vineyards. Aged in 94% French, 3% Russian, and 3% American oak (71% new). 805 cases produced.

Reininger Carmenère Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $45
Rating: * (Excellent) Jumps from the glass with herbal notes, white pepper, and savory notes. Palate is restrained and full of cherries and savory flavors. An excellent representation of the varietal. Aged in French oak.

Seven Hills Winery

Seven Hills Winery was established in 1988. Casey McClellan, a fourth generation farmer, serves as winemaker. The winery has a beautiful tasting room with high ceilings and gleaming wood floors adjacent to the Whitehouse-Crawford in downtown Walla Walla.

Seven Hills has a distinct house style that is considerably lower in alcohol and higher in acid than many wineries in Washington. The oak is moved to the background and is added for accent. The fruit flavors are incredibly fresh.

Seven Hills wines have demonstrated terrific aging potential. A 1999 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - one of my favorite bottles I have had this year - still had a long life ahead of it.

Seven Hills Winery makes approximately 16,000 cases per year (5,000 of this are Riesling). Note: Red wines sampled at 68 degrees.

Seven Hills Winery Viognier Talcott Vineyard Columbia Valley 2009 $20
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) An aromatic wine marked by tangerines, floral notes, and honey. A fairly viscous feel on a palate that seems to want a bit more acidity. 13.6% alcohol. 960 cases produced.

Seven Hills Winery Riesling Columbia Valley 2009 $14
Rating: + (Good) Still somewhat reductive at present. A light nose marked by green apples, mineral, and lime. Off-dry in style on the palate with a mineraly finish. 11% alcohol. 1.5% Residual Sugar. 5,000 cases produced.

Seven Hills Winery Merlot Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $28
Rating: + (Good) The nose is redolent with fresh red fruit, roasted nuts, and a light earthiness. The palate is light bodied, crisp, and tart with abundant red fruit. 100% Merlot. Aged 18 months in French oak (40% new). 13.7% alcohol. 465 cases produced.

Seven Hills Winery Tempranillo Columbia Valley 2007 $20
Rating: + (Good) The nose shows abundant cranberry and leather aromas along with a touch of alcohol. The palate is fresh, clean, and very tart with a firm tannic structure. 100% Tempranillo. Aged 23 months in American oak (30% new). 13.8% alcohol. 258 cases produced.

Seven Hills Winery Malbec Walla Walla Valley 2007 $25
Rating: + (Good) Abundant pepper along with plum and herbal notes on an unabashedly varietal wine. The palate is acid driven but also boasts a good deal of tannic structure. Windrow, McClellan, and Minnick vineyards. 13.8% alcohol. Aged 18 months in Hungarian oak (35% new). 446 cases produced.

Seven Hills Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2006 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Loads of bright cranberry and black cherry aromas and flavors along with earth and a touch of dark chocolate. The palate has bright acidity and chewy fruit flavors. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 23 months in French oak (40% new). 13.5% alcohol. 910 cases produced.

Seven Hills Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Klipsun Vineyard Red Mountain 2007 $32
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Bright cherry fruit, floral notes, earth, and hints of licorice mark an aromatic nose. The palate boasts lots of structure while still remaining elegant. The fruit flavors are incredibly fresh along with well-integrated tannins and bright acidity. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in French oak (40% new). 13.8% alcohol. 510 cases produced.

Seven Hills Winery Pentad Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2006 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An aromatic wine with dusty earth, fresh black cherries, and red fruit. The palate is incredibly fresh and clean with well-integrated tannins and a zing of acidity. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Petit Verdot, 7% Carmenère, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Malbec. Aged 20 months in French oak (50% new). 13.8% alcohol. 343 cases produced.

Onesies

Dowsett Family Winery Gewürztraminer Celilo Vineyard Columbia Gorge 2009 $22
Chris Dowsett works as assistant winemaker at Buty Winery by day and makes his limited Dowsett Family Winery wines by night. Dowsett is passionate about Gewürztraminer, focusing his efforts on fruit from Celilo Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge.

Rating: + (Good) Abundant pink grapefruit, crushed red pepper, and floral notes on the nose. Palate has a lot of pink grapefruit flavors and a rounded mouthfeel. Doesn’t quite bring the acidity of the previous vintage but still a very enjoyable wine. 100% Gewurztraminer. 14.0% alcohol.

Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $40
The 2005 vintage of this wine was heralded as Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year in 2009. With 2007 an exceptional vintage in Washington, this is another wine from Columbia Crest that offers high value, despite what appears to be a significant increase in price from the previous vintages (price from winery website).

Rating: * (Excellent) Somewhat brooding on the nose with blackberry, black cherry, herbal notes, spice box, and sweet spices. Rich with fruit and espresso flavors buffeted by dry tannins. An evolving finish. 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.8% Merlot, 0.2% Cabernet Franc. Aged for 25 months in 82% new French oak (82%) and American (18%) oak. 14.4% alcohol. 5,000 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

November's Virtual Tasting is tonight from 7-8pm Pacific Time. The wine will be the 2009 Owen Roe Abbot's Table. This wine retails for $20 and is widely available.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery

2. Post your comments/tweets on the wine between 7 and 8pm. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport. I will be using the hashtag #owenroe during the event.

Hope you will join us!

Reminder: November's Virtual Tasting is the 2009 Owen Roe Abbot's Table Red Wine. The tasting takes place on Wednesday the 17th. Read more about it here.

While there are over one hundred wineries in the Walla Walla Valley, it might surprise you to learn that there is not a single, dedicated retail wine store.

Until now.

On Monday November 1^st good friend and fellow Washington wine blogger Catie McIntyre Walker of Through the Walla Walla Grapevine opened a brick and mortar wine store in downtown Walla Walla.

While Walla Walla is awash in wine, there are surprisingly few stores that offer large selections of local wines – and no dedicated wine retailer. Perhaps most importantly, no one in town offers a large selection of imported wines. Many Walla Walla winemakers currently drive to Seattle to check out the world’s latest and greatest.

McIntyre Walker plans to move into this vacuum and provide a store with both a large local selection as well as a large selection of imports. She also plans to offer numerous bottles of bubbles.

Catie McIntyre Walker is a Walla Walla native. One might say that alcohol is in her genes so to speak. She hails from a family that made moonshine in West Virginia back in the day. She writes, “My first fermentation project came at age 18: four cans of fruit cocktail, several cups of sugar, and a couple packages of yeast. The molten sweet fruit bubbled and churned and eventually - voila! - I had ‘brandied’ fruit.”

As Walla Walla grew over the last several decades into a major wine region, McIntyre Walker was quickly captivated. She began taking classes at the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program, studying under the late Stan Clarke. Of her decision to open a wine store, McIntyre Walker says to me, “It all started with the wine blog, so be careful!”

McIntyre Walker started Through the Walla Walla Grapevine June 30^th of 2005. The blog started as a way to keep track of the blossoming wine scene in Walla Walla. McIntyre Walker says with a laugh, “I thought I was the only one reading it.” She soon found, however, that she was not.

As her readership grew, people began asking where they might find some of the wines McIntyre Walker was writing about. With many of the Walla Walla Valley wines limited in production with little to no distribution, she sensed an opportunity.

In the winter of 2008, she started an on-line business offering Walla Walla Valley wines. McIntyre Walker’s trademark name for the store - Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman - came about when she was “screwing around one day trying to create the website.” The alliterative name quickly became a brand. McIntyre Walker started out offering about thirty wines and over time this number doubled. She says of the on-line wine business, “It kind of took on a life of its own.”

At the time, McIntyre Walker was working as an assistant at a law firm where she had worked for ten years. She had considered taking the plunge and creating a brick and mortar wine store but had resisted leaving the comforts of a stable, long-term job.

In November of 2009, a friend approached her, saying he had found what seemed the perfect space in downtown Walla Walla. While McIntyre Walker agreed the space was perfect, she wasn’t ready. As November became February, her friend reached out to her again and said, “Catie, that space is waiting for you.” After much internal debate, she decided it was time.

When I first drove by the store location last summer, it was an abandoned business front – the site of a former hair salon - in need of much love. On my visit on Fall Release weekend, the space had been transformed.

The Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman store is immaculately decorated. McIntyre Walker used the bold color themes that brand her website to decorate the store. The walls are crimson, accented by a black and mustard trim. There is a sitting area in the front and an area for wine tastings in the back. Indicative of McIntyre Walker’s mischievous streak, the bathroom decorations are a must see.

As the saying goes, for any business the three most important things are location, location, location. McIntyre Walker's store has all three. Everyone coming off Highway 12 to downtown Walla Walla passes directly by the shop. The building is right along 2^nd Street, a block from the Marcus Whitman, on the same block as Skylite Cellars, and across the street from the Sleight of Hand and Spring Valley Vineyard tasting rooms. There is abundant parking both behind the store and behind the buildings across the street.

McIntyre Walker says the response from the community has been extremely positive. Since the opening, she’s been busy lining up winemaker events and filling out the store’s stock, with a number of winemakers bringing wine by while we sat and chatted.

While it’s always inspirational to see someone follow a dream, watching someone do it in today’s economy is particularly moving. But it’s never a bad time to have a great idea. Was McIntyre Walker scared to walk away from a secure long-term job into the great unknown of the wine world? “I’m still scared!” she says with a laugh.

We wish her well.

Reminder: November's Virtual Tasting is the 2009 Owen Roe Abbot's Table Red Wine. The tasting takes place on Wednesday the 17th. Read more about it here.

In October of 2009, I wrote about the opening of a Washington wine-dedicated retailer called Full Pull Wines. The business model was unique. Hand pick high quality, hard to find Washington wines and offer the wines, along with an engaging story, to an e-mail distribution list (read my original post about Full Pull here).

One year later, Full Pull Wines is still going strong (and continually taking a bite out of my wallet). Full Pull's Paul Zitarelli has shown a knack for identifying exceptional wines across a range of styles and price points and conveying stories that bring the bottles to life.

Below I talk with friend and founder Paul Zitarelli about what it was like starting a small business in one of the worst economies in decades and what he's learned along the way.

WWR: You launched Full Pull wines one year ago (last) month. What was it like starting your own small business this past year, especially in the midst of the worst economy in 50 years?

Zitarelli: Mostly terrifying. Early on, I had many mornings where I woke up wondering if I had frittered away my life savings. But it turns out people still drink wine about as much during lackluster economies as during boom times (although probably for different reasons). And there have been advantages launching into a bad economy too. I have been able to gain access to wines that would have been impossible to source if I had launched three years earlier.

WWR: What’s been the biggest challenge for you?

Zitarelli: Saying no. I taste a lot of wine, and most of it is made and/or represented by really good people. But the wines aren’t always really good. So I have found that I have to be ruthless when selecting our offerings, because in the end, we’re only offering about 200 wines over the course of a year, and those wines all need to represent exceptional value at their price points.

WWR: What has been the most rewarding part for you about starting Full Pull?

Zitarelli: Getting to know two groups of people. First, my mailing list. I have worked in other wine retail environments, and I have never seen a group of wine buyers like this: intellectually curious, enthusiastic about experimentation, and confident in their palates. It makes me always look forward to Thursdays, because I know I’m going to spend the whole day geeking out about wine. What could be better?

And then there are the growers and producers I work with. Even before I had sold a single bottle of wine, I was met with warmth and generosity by almost every farmer and winemaker I met. They have shown a great willingness to share the stories behind their bottles, and it has been a joy to represent them.

WWR: Any surprises – positive or negative – for you along the way?

Zitarelli: I have been surprised by how quickly we have been able to work with some of the best producers in the state. I have been surprised by just how positively the winery community in Washington has responded to our model. I had envisioned that wine aficionados would love the model for buying wine, but I didn’t realize that, for producers, this model for selling wine is much more pleasant than many of their retail encounters.

WWR: One of the most important aspects of Full Pull, in my opinion, is talking with people at the wineries and telling their stories and the stories about the wines. What have you learned from your experience talking with growers and winemakers over the last year?

Zitarelli: I do think you have correctly identified one of our most important aspects. We’re trying to convey, over e-mail, some of the experience that you get when you actually visit these farmers and winemakers. The first year has definitely underscored for me the importance of the grower community here in Washington. Everything starts with them. They know it, and the winemakers know it. Also, growers are some of the most fascinating people out there in the wine trade, and their stories are massively under-told. What this means for Full Pull is that I will continue to increase the number of vineyards I visit in addition to the wineries, and I will continue to seek out even more site-expressive, single-vineyard wines so that we have more opportunities to tell the stories behind these people and places.

WWR: How has your opinion about wine in general or Washington wine in particular changed as a result of your experiences this last year?

Zitarelli: Well, I’m completely down the rabbit hole at this point when it comes to wine. It’s an incredibly complex topic and an utter joy to explore. As for Washington, I continue to believe that our wines belong on the world stage and can compete at the very highest levels, especially in terms of quality for price. But there is a mismatch between the quality of the wine and the strength of the marketing. It’s easy to misread that fact when we’re here in Washington. But when you try to talk to national wine buyers and sommeliers about the differences between Syrahs from Yakima Valley and Walla Walla Valley, you get a lot of glazed looks. So I think we still have room to improve our storytelling, but that’s the better problem to have. I would rather have outstanding wine and room for marketing improvement as opposed to killer marketing and crap wine.

WWR: Washington wine has obviously received a great deal of accolades over the past several years especially. What changes do you expect to see in the industry in the next few years?

Zitarelli: My crystal ball is blurry, Sean. There are gusts blowing in both directions. As you mentioned, the accolades only seem to keep increasing from national publications, which is a clear tailwind. But the lousy economy is a headwind, as is the fact that three of our best varietals (Merlot, Syrah, and Riesling) remain a bit unfashionable. But economic conditions change, and wine fashions certainly change, so as long as we stay laser-focused on quality and try to not be too swayed by fashion trends, I think we’ll see continued growth and success.

WWR: Any changes that people can expect from Full Pull over the next year?

Zitarelli: As I mentioned, you might see a slight uptick in focus towards growers and an increase in single-vineyard offerings. And you might see some new producers added to the portfolio. Year one was exhilarating and terrifying in equal measure. My hope for year two is a smoother, more polished version of year one, with more exhilaration and less terror.

Reminder: November's Virtual Tasting is the 2009 Owen Roe Abbot's Table Red Wine. The tasting takes place on Wednesday the 17th. Read more about it here.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from November 1st to 7th.

From around the world…

Hong Kong Trader writes about Washington wine in China.


From around the country…

The Orange County Register writes that more Starbucks plan to sell beer and wine.

Wines & Vines writes about the recent initiative battle.

Wine Spectator writes that wholesalers are ready for a fight.

The Wall Street Journal gives early returns on the initiatives.

Business Week writes about voters deciding on liquor privatization (prior to election day).

ShipCompliant Blog writes about the election (prior to).

Palm Beach Post writes about fall wines with a shout out to Gramercy Cellars.


From the blogosphere…

Paul Gregutt writes about Barnard Griffin. He also writes about Wine Enthusiasts Top 100 Cellar Selections.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about rumors of a new Sparkman Cellars tasting room. Shona also writes about Wine World, wine storage tips, and Woodinville wine events through November 11^th.

Sip of Spokane writes about pizza and wine.

Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog writes about construction delays. Josh also gives out some monthly honors from October.

Vinotology moves into Movember. Ben also gives the good, the bad, and the ugly, and recent changes with friends in the wine industry.

Wine Peeps writes about finding the right place to buy your wine. They also write about Washington Grenache, new releases from Fielding Hills, and Mourvedre.

Wine & Beer of Washington State writes about Seattle’s Wine World.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Fall Release weekend. Catie also writes about Seven Hills Winery.

WINO Magazine writes about fall colors and leaf roll virus.

The Oregon Wine Blog writes about Maryhill Winery. They also write about a blind Pinot Noir tasting and the Columbia Gorge.

Nates Thoughts from the Vineyard writes about a quest to taste wines at every Walla Walla winery.

One Rich Wine Guy writes about November wine events.

Inhabitat writes about a Seattle-area company making wine bottles from recycled glass.

Relatively Cheap Wine writes about Flying Trout.

Reininger writes about it’s 2005 Sangiovese.

Family Wineries of Washington State asks what’s next after Initiative 1100’s failure.

Beer Blotter asks what’s next after the failure of Initiative 1100.

Fermentation writes about where the battle for free trade stands after the election.

Woodward Canyon writes about the 2010 harvest.

AgInfo.net writes about harvest wrapping up.

Wine Foot writes about Columbia Crest being presented with the No. 1 wine award by Wine Spectator.

Flying Trout Wines writes about the 2010 vintage.

Wine Bloggers Conference writes about highlights from the 2010 conference.

RV Life writes about Washington wineries.


From the locals…

Walla Walla Union Bulletin writes about Fall Release.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes that Chardonnay is coming on strong.

The Kitsap Sun writes about Bainbridge Island.

Wenatchee World writes about Milbrandt.

The Seattle Times writes about weird winter events in wine country.

The Tri-City Herald writes about Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler talking about wine tourism.

Mercer Island Reporter writes about a new wine store coming to Mercer Island.

The News Tribune writes about harvest winding down. They also write about the Columbia Gorge.

The Daily Evergreen writes about WSU alum wines.

That's all folks!