Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report Note: Site has moved to www.northwestwinereport.com

The 2010 harvest is underway in Washington State. Over the coming weeks, I will provide weekly updates on what is picked, where, and when. See previous reports here.

10/6 Update: The 2010 Washington harvest is now a race against the clock. After an unseasonably warm ten-day stretch that quickened the pace of ripening after a cool growing season, sub-30 degree temperatures are forecast in the Yakima Valley in mid-October. This has led to some concerns about how long the growing season will last. However, the warm temperatures over the last ten days have mitigated many of the concerns that numerous varieties throughout large areas of the state would not reach maturity before freezing temperatures arrived.

Jay DeWitt of Dumas Station Winery and Minnick Hills Vineyard says of the recent warm weather, “The post-veraison weather has been unusually kind. The daily temperature range, relative humidity, and sunlight hours have been nearly ideal for ripening. This was true for the past week, and the weather forecast for next ten days looks good. I am now confident that we will get nearly all of the grapes ripe.” This was far from certain even two weeks ago.

Emphasizing just how unusual this growing season has been, DeWitt notes that the Klicker family has been growing strawberries in the Walla Walla Valley since 1918. They have never begun harvest later than they have this year. There are numerous other anomalies throughout the state. Botrytis has been seen on Syrah for the first time since the grape was planted in Washington in the 1980s. Kent Waliser of Sagemoor Vineyards notes that the order which grapes have been picked has been unusual, with White Riesling coming in ahead of Chardonnay for the first time at Sagemoor’s Weinbau Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope.

Winemaker Ben Smith of Cadence Winery agrees that the vintage has been unusual. “It is unlike any vintage I’ve seen since I started making wine in 1992, although most similar to 1999,” Smith says. “This vintage has featured the lowest ripeness levels I’ve ever seen – we’re probably averaging 24.0 Brix – yet flavors are absolutely mature.”

Despite the late schedule, most winemakers agree that they are excited about the flavors coming from the grapes. Discussing the vintage, DeWitt says, “Compared to other vintages, this year we have very small berries and open grape clusters. I think this is why the flavor development is ahead of what we would expect. Smaller berries will create a higher skin-to-pulp ratio and thus more intense color and flavor. The structural components (acid, sugar, and tannins) are remarkably well balanced. It is going to be a great vintage for boutique wines.”

Warmer sites, such as vineyards on Red Mountain, have already brought in many varieties. Seven Hills Winery, which traditionally picks earlier than many, brought in some of its Red Mountain Cabernet on October 4^th. This is a good sign for many of the state’s winemakers that their pick dates for Cabernet, a late ripening varietal, cannot be far off. Still, cooler sites have large amounts of fruit hanging.

Winemaker Dave Butner of Kaella Winery visited Conner Lee Vineyard outside of Othello over the weekend and noted that little of the fruit had been picked yet. “It was very weird to see almost ninety-five percent of the fruit still hanging,” Butner says. Still, Butner was excited about the prospects for the 2010 vintage, saying, “I sampled all my rows of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The fruit flavors are fantastic! I think the long season is resulting in spectacular flavor development. Sugars are not up and the acids are still high, but as long as there is no frost I think the 2010 vintage has great promise to produce some fantastic wines.”

Along with the potential arrival of cold weather in some locations, the other main concern at present is the compression of the harvest schedule. Much like last year, multiple grapes will be coming in to wineries at the same time. Vineyard manager Ryan Johnson, who manages multiple sites on Red Mountain, noted that this was the first vintage in his career where he would pick Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Viognier, Roussanne, Nebbiolo, and Petit Verdot in same week.

For Washington’s numerous small wineries, large amounts of grapes coming in over short periods of time presents considerable challenges. Butner explains, “All of the grapes will be coming in a short window of time. Problem for us is we do not have the floor space for our shared three wineries. In a normal vintage, the ferments are staggered and when one batch is done fermenting, the next comes in. This year if everything comes in and is fermenting at the same time, we will not have the room for it all.” Shannon Jones of Hestia Cellars echoes both the excitement about the vintage and the concern about the compression of the schedule, saying, “Things are looking nice, great flavors and good acidity. Now, if we only had more space!”

See information on the Washington State Growing Degree Days here.

Monthly forecast for Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley, and Mattawa.

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The information in the table below is aggregated from personal correspondence with growers and winemakers, as well as information posted on Twitter and Facebook. It is not intended to be comprehensive but rather is intended as a snapshot of what is going on around the state. If you wish to send data for your grapes or vineyards (or correct any of the information below), please email me at wawinereport@gmail.com, leave a comment here, or leave a comment on the WWR Facebook page.

Pictures courtesy of SYZYGY Wines, Obelisco Estate, Kaella Winery, and Waterbrook respectively.

Winery	Grape	Vineyard	Date	Notes
Yakima Valley
Hard Row to Hoe	Orange Muscat	Lonesome Springs Ranch	9/29	Brix = 25.2
Sleight of Hand	Chardonnay	French Creek	9/30
Brian Carter	Merlot	Olsen Estate	9/30
Sinclair Estates	Chardonnay	Lewis	10/2
21 Cellars	Tempranillo	Elephant Mt	10/2
Cote Bonneville	Merlot	DuBrul	10/2
Sleight of Hand	Merlot	Blackrock	10/7	Just over 24 Brix
Red Mountain
Sleight of Hand	Merlot	Red Mt Vineyard	9/29	26.4 brix, 3.66 pH, and TA around .45.
NA	Merlot	Ciel du Cheval	9/30	Almost done harvesting
NA	Viognier Syrah	Ciel du Cheval	9/30	Started harvesting
Cooper Wine Co	Merlot	Estate	10/1
Grand Reve	Syrah	Grand Reve Vineyard	10/2
CZ Cellars	Grenache	Red Haven	10/2	27.6 brix, 0.56 acid and 3.33 pH
21 Cellars	Sauv Blanc	Artz	10/2
Col Solare	Merlot	Estate	10/4
Col Solare	Malbec	Estate	10/4
Seven Hills	Cabernet	Klipsun	10/4
Seven Hills	Cabernet	Ciel du Cheval	10/4
Elsom	Merlot	Klipsun	10/5
Obelisco	Cabernet	Estate	TBD	23.5 brix TA 0.67 ph 3.42 10/4
Obelisco	Malbec	Estate	TBD	Malbec 22.6 Brix TA:0.66 ph 3.30 10/4
Walla Walla Valley
SYZYGY	Syrah	Seven Hills	10/2
Sleight of Hand	Merlot	Va Piano	10/5	26.0 Brix, 3.80 pH and .33 TA
Wahluke Slope
Hestia	Merlot	Stone Tree	9/24
Hard Row to Hoe	Merlot	Riverbend	9/29	24.8 Brix
Brian Carter	Tempranillo	Stone Tree	9/30
Kyra	Dolcetto	Purple Sage	10/1
Tildio	Merlot	Weinbau	10/4
Substance	Malbec	Stone Tree	10/4
L’Ecole No. 41	Cabernet	Stone Tree	10/5
Columbia Valley
Rasa Vineyards	Merlot	Dionysus	9/25
Novelty Hill	Chardonnay	Stillwater Creek	9/30
Olympic Cellars	Syrah	Sagemoor	10/1
CZ Cellars	Riesling	Bacchus	10/2	23.7 brix, 0.86 acid, 2.91 pH.
Gorman Winery	Chardonnay	Conner Lee	10/5
L’Ecole No. 41	Chardonnay	Bacchus	10/5
Horse Heaven Hills
Robert Karl	Malbec	McKinley Springs	9/29	Excellent balance & flavor
Robert Karl	Merlot	Andrews HH Ranch	10/1	Excellent balance & flavor
Col Solare	Merlot	Coyote Canyon	10/2
Syncline Wine	Syrah	McKinley Springs	10/4	This may be the finest syrah harvested from these guys yet.
Hestia	Syrah	Andrews Ranch	10/6	Block 12
Robert Karl	Cab Franc	Phinny Hill	10/7
Hestia	Syrah	Andrews Ranch	10/8	Tablas Creek clone
Rattlesnake Hills
NH Vines	Tempranillo	Two Coyote	9/30	26 Brix, 3.3 pH
DiStefano	Sauvignon Blanc	Roza Hills	10/8,9	Brix:23.5 pH:3.20 TA:0.70 its perfect!
Snipes Mountain
NA	Gewurz	Upland	9/29
NA	Syrah	Upland	9/30
NA	Pinot Gris	Upland	10/1	Through 10/4
NA	Grenache	Upland	10/1	26.5+ brix
Rolling Bay	Syrah	Upland	10/2
NA	Chardonnay	Upland	10/4
NA	Syrah	Upland	10/4	Also 10/5, 10/6
NA	Merlot	Upland	10/5
Lake Chelan
Hard Row to Hoe	Orange Muscat	Lake Chelan	9/28	25.2 Brix
Vin du Lac	Gewurztraminer	Michaela's	9/29	Small clusters
Vin du Lac	Sauvignon Blanc	Michaela’s	9/30
Hard Row to Hoe	Pinot Noir	Cortelli Vineyard	10/1	24.8 Brix. 1 week behind last year
Vin du Lac	Pinot Gris	Lehm	10/2
Tildio	Chardonnay Pinot Gris Merlot Syrah Tempranillo	Estate	TBD	Week of 10/4