Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report Note: Site has moved to www.northwestwinereport.com

Well folks, another year of Washington wine has come to a close.

2010 was a breakout year for Washington with continued accolades and high scores. Of note, Gramercy Cellars was named Food & Wine magazine’s ‘Best New Winery in America’ – the second year a Washington winery has won a major award from the magazine. Wine Spectator devoted a cover story to Washington wine. The magazine also gave its highest scores ever to a Washington red wine – 97 points - for the Charles Smith 2006 Royal City Syrah, Cayuse 2006 Armada Vineyard Syrah, Grand Reve 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, and Owen Roe 2007 Red Willow Syrah. All things told Wine Spectator rated 17 wines 95 points or higher – ‘classic’ in the publication’s definition. No other year has seen a number remotely close to this. Wine Spectator was not alone with Wine Enthusiast and Wine Advocate also giving numerous Washington wines high scores.

The number of wineries in Washington officially topped 650 in April. The number subsequently crept over 700 (unofficially) later in the year, but with the economic downturn, it’s not clear if it will stay there. While several wineries including Yellow Hawk Cellar and Nicholas Cole did close in 2010, the industry did not see the mass closings some had feared.

The Great Recession continued to have a strong effect on the Washington wine industry. Consumers purchased wines at much lower price points. Price slashing worldwide made the environment extremely competitive of the state’s wines. Many Washington wineries tried to move down-market, focusing on ‘glass pour’ wines in the $15 to $25 range.

Eastern Washington wineries continued to move into the Woodinville area, now home to over 70 wineries and tasting rooms, to try to take advantage of Seattle’s large consumer base during the tough economic times. The Internet was also awash in ‘mystery wine’ offers as producers looked for creative ways to move juice.

2010 saw one of the more unusual growing seasons in decades (see a series of harvest reports here). The year was cool with several areas seeing a good deal of precipitation during the summer. A late September/early October warm front – which one grower referred to as a “multi-million dollar gift” – averted a potential disaster. A freeze in late November has led to some concern about how next year’s vintage may be affected, particularly in the Horse Heaven Hills and colder parts of the Walla Walla Valley. Stay tuned.

There was a heated battle over liquor privatization in Washington State, with two initiatives on the November ballot. Both subsequently failed. No word on what may come next, although Governor Gregoire has said that she is ‘open’ to the idea of privatization.

The 2010 Wine Bloggers Conference was held in Walla Walla. The state subsequently saw a sizeable bump in posts and on-line discussion about Washington wine. 2010 also saw a great deal of expansion in the use of Twitter by the Washington wine community. Tweet-ups became commonplace. There were also several Washington-focused Twitter events including #WAMerlot and #WAwine which brought attention to the state’s wines.

The bizarro story of the year was the theft of the first year of Mourvedre grapes from Grand Reve Vineyard on Red Mountain. The head trained vines had been meticulously cared for by hand for three years only to have someone steal the grapes ten days before they were ripe. The case remains unsolved.

That’s it for 2010 folks. My sincere thanks to all those who followed the blog this year. Have a great New Year’s Eve. See you in 2011!

Kerloo Cellars - named for the call of the crane - made as impressive a debut as any Washington winery last year with two compelling 2007 Syrahs from the Walla Walla Valley. The first was a vineyard designate from Les Collines Vineyard. This vineyard, located at the foothills of the Blue Mountains, is producing Syrah that goes into some of the valley’s best bottles, including wines from Gramercy, Trust, Sleight of Hand, and Rasa. The second wine was a blend from Va Piano Vineyards, where Kerloo Cellars’ winemaker Ryan Crane works as assistant winemaker, and Les Collines.

While Crane was pleased with the results of his first release (as were consumers with the wines quickly selling out), the 2007 vintage was one of Washington’s finest with near perfect growing conditions. Crane says, “2007 was easy. In 2008 I worked a lot harder.” The results, however, are equally impressive.

For the 2008 vintage wines, Crane stuck with the two Syrahs – using the same blocks from each vineyard – and also added a Columbia Valley Tempranillo to the lineup. Tempranillo is an emerging varietal in Washington with an increasing number of plantings and bottlings. Thus far the best bottles have come from Doug McCrea’s Salida and Gramercy Cellars. Add Kerloo Cellars to that list.

For his Tempranillo, Crane looked to make a low alcohol, Spanish style wine. “My hope is that no one picks it from Washington State,” Crane says. The wine is a blend of two vineyards – Stone Tree in the Wahluke Slope and Les Collines. Stone Tree is an extremely hot site that receives a mere six inches of rain annually. Crane believes this is “the perfect Tempranillo site.” Les Collines on the other hand is a cooler site due to its elevation. The vineyard also receives a substantial amount of precipitation each year. Crane says the Stone Tree grapes provide the Tempranillo’s weight and structure and the Les Collines grapes fill out the mid-palate. While Crane uses a limited amount of American oak on the wine (20%), the wood is tight grained and the focus here is clearly on the fruit.

Though the Kerloo Cellars 2008 vintage releases are still microscopic in production at 400 cases, Crane plans to expand to 1,000 cases for the 2009 vintage. In addition to the Walla Walla Valley Syrahs and Tempranillo, the winery will add a Malbec and Grenache for club members. The Malbec comes from Chelle den Mille Vineyard in the Yakima Valley and the Grenache from Alder Ridge and Cockburn Ranch. Based on barrel samples, both look to be impressive additions to the lineup. For the 2009 vintage Crane and his wife Renee also added a new family member - Beckett Ronin Crane (Note the Kerloo Cellars shirt in the picture).

While the most recent growing season and harvest was one of the more challenging ones in many years, Crane – like many – is excited about the prospects. Summarizing his thoughts on the wines at this early date, Crane says, “Color, color, color! It’s unlike anything I’ve seen.” Indeed this dark juice was gurgling away on my visit to the winery in November.

As both the winery and his family grow, Crane says his goal remains the same. “I just want to make good wines.” At this, he is surely succeeding.

Read a Focus Report on Kerloo Cellars here.

Kerloo Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2008 $32
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Jumps from the glass with floral notes, plum, smoke, spice, and dark fruit. A seamless palate with full of fruit and chocolate along with a solid backbone of tannins beautifully balanced by acidity. A persistent finish. 100% Syrah. Va Piano Block 6 (80%) and Les Collines Block 30 (20%). 20% whole-cluster fermented. Aged in French oak (20% new). 14.6% alcohol. 115 cases produced.

Kerloo Cellars Les Collines Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2008 $32
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Dark in color. Lightly aromatic on the nose with carob, high-toned violets, lavender, and plum. Perfumed and fleshy on the palate with a dense core of tightly wound fruit speckled with slightly citric acidity. A persistent intensity on the mid-palate. The finish swoops in underneath and sails off into the distance. 100% Syrah. Aged 16 months in French oak (29% new). 14.1% alcohol. 81 cases produced.

Kerloo Cellars Tempranillo Columbia Valley 2008 $34
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. Brooding aromatics of pencil eraser, spice, leather, smoke, and a touch of vanilla. On the palate a big, grippy wine with racy acidity. 100% Tempranillo. 56% Stone Tree, 44% Les Collines. Aged 17 months in new American (22%) and neutral French oak. 13.9% alcohol. 207 cases produced.

Samples provided by winery.

Winemaker Trey Busch of Sleight of Hand Cellars remembers drinking wine when he was in his mid-20s, but like many, he didn’t give what was in his glass much thought. All that would change a short time later when winemaking would become his life’s work.

In the late 1990s, Busch met Eric Dunham who had recently started Dunham Cellars. They met through a mutual friend, Jamie Brown (now of Waters Winery), who owned a record store, Ruby Records, in Seattle. Dunham and Brown spent a night at Busch’s house in Seattle, and Dunham brought a bottle of his newly released 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon. Busch says, “I remember tasting that wine and it all clicked, like, ‘What was I drinking before that I thought was good wine?’ It was a stunner.”

A short time later Busch and his family went to Walla Walla to visit Browne who had since moved back to his hometown. Busch and his family fell in love with the area. At the time, Busch was working as a clothing buyer for Nordstrom but was feeling “burnt out.” Busch says, “After that first visit, I tried to figure out what I would do if we moved to Walla Walla. Eric made that easy for me because at a dinner party at his house, he offered me a job to work for him as his Assistant Winemaker - me having absolutely NO knowledge of the winemaking process.”

One month later, Busch had quit his job, put his house on the market, and was living in Walla Walla. Of that first year Busch says, “Eric taught me about winemaking as we worked our way through that first harvest, in the fall of 2000. And I am thankful every day because of him!”

Busch subsequently worked at Basel Cellars from 2002 through 2007 but was always interested in starting his own winery. One year at Sun Valley’s annual wine auction, he met Sandy and Jerry Solomon. People at the auction had been talking about the Basel Cellars wines, and the Solomons came by to see what all the fuss was about. Busch and the Solomons clicked immediately, and the next year Busch had a winemaker dinner at the couple’s home in Sun Valley.

When the Solomons came to visit Walla Walla the following harvest, Busch gave them the business plan for the winery he wanted to start. He was thinking perhaps the couple would pass it along to some friends. Instead, the Solomon’s said they wanted in. A partnership was born.

Sleight of Hand Cellars had its first release in June of 2007 with a non-vintage blend and a 2006 vintage wine. The winery’s first full vintage was in 2007 with the wines made at Saviah Cellars.

Sleight of Hand’s name is a callout to the band Pearl Jam. Busch – an audiophile whose downtown Walla Walla tasting room contains an extensive record collection - has always had a love of the band. He says, “Sleight of Hand has always been one of my favorite songs, off of the Binaural album. And the story in the song, about a guy who is living his life, but not really LIVING his life, just going through the motions. So one day, he just takes this right turn in life, which is kind of what I did to end up here in Walla Walla. So it really fit us.”

With the term ‘sleight of hand’ having a magical connotation, Busch liked the idea of having labels that looked like vintage magic show posters. He worked with Denver magician Phelyx Hopkins on the original and subsequent labels. The labels quickly became a brand. Busch says, “When people walk into our tasting room, almost every time the first comments are about the labels! It just so happens the wine inside the bottles ain’t half bad either!”

Indeed, the wines from Sleight of Hand are far from half bad. While the winery has always had a strong lineup, the current releases are a considerable evolution. The wines are both impressive and well priced at the low end and at the high end. Busch even manages to pull a rabbit out of the hat - or barrel as it may be - with an unlikely blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, and Sangiovese in the 2008 Spellbinder Red Blend. Could this be? Is some chicanery afoot? No sleight of hand here. Just good wine at good prices.

Sleight of Hand Cellars produces 2,500 cases annually.

Sleight of Hand Cellars ‘The Magician’ White Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $17
Rating: * (Excellent) Just a tinge of greenish yellow color. An aromatic nose with white grapefruit and citric notes. The palate is very fresh and clean with white grapefruit, honeysuckle, and a touch of peach. 60% Gewurztraminer, 40% Riesling. Evergreen and Pheasant vineyards. 12.7% alcohol. 0.6% Residual Sugar. 400 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars ‘Magician’s Assistant’ Rose Columbia Valley 2009 $17
Rating: * (Excellent) Light salmon colored. A lightly aromatic wine with red cherries and strawberries. The palate is beautifully balanced with mineral and strawberry flavors. 100% Cabernet Franc. Chelle den Millie and Blackrock vineyards. 13.2% alcohol. 160 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars ‘The Spellbinder’ Red Blend Columbia Valley 2008 $19
Rating: * (Excellent) An engaging aroma profile with herbal notes, chocolate, and licorice. Bright with abundant fresh fruit flavors on an extremely enjoyable palate that finishes with a touch of pepper. 42% Cabernet Franc, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Syrah, 12% Merlot, and 11% Sangiovese. Va Piano, Double River, Red Mountain Vineyard, Blue Mountain, Phinney Hill, Lewis, Les Collines, and Chelle den Mille vineyards. Aged 11 months in neutral French oak. 13.5% alcohol. 840 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars ‘Levitation’ Syrah Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Stains the glass with a brilliant purple hue. Nose shows wild blueberries, mushroom, and forest floor aromas. The palate is seamlessly stitched together with abundant berry and umami flavors accented by exceptionally well balanced oak. The finish goes on as long as you care to count. 100% Syrah. Les Collines, Lewis, and Portteus vineyards. 14.9% alcohol. 300 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars ‘Levitation’ Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with floral notes, spice, blue fruit, and hints of game. Tart on the palate with a tight core of fruit accented by bright acidity. Give 6 months. 100% Syrah. 57% Les Collines, 43% Lewis vineyards. Aged 18 months in French oak (50% new). 13.9% alcohol.

Sleight of Hand Cellars ‘Illusionist’ Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Gorgeous aromatics of cedar, toasty oak, black cherry, licorice, and vanilla rise up out of the glass. Abundant cherry fruit on a rich, even palate. Blend of five Bordeaux varietals with a splash of Syrah. 296 cases produced.

Sleight of Hand Cellars ‘Archimage’ Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2007 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Bright cherries, black pepper, chocolate, herbal notes, and a dusting of earth. The palate has a shimmering intensity of fresh fruit accented by supple tannins. 54% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc. 14.5% alcohol. 298 cases produced.

The last Virtual Tasting of 2010 is tonight! The wine is the Domaine Ste. Michelle Extra Dry Sparkling Wine NV. This wine retails for $14 and is widely available (feel free to grab a different style from the winery if you prefer). The tasting takes place from 7-8pm Pacific Time.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery

2. Post your comments/tweets on the wine between 7 and 8pm. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport. I will be using the hashtag #DStM during the event.

Hope you will join us!

Reminder: December's Virtual Tasting will take place on Wednesday December 29th from 7-8pm Pacific Time. Read more about it here.

It seems almost impossible to believe that Corliss Estates is now finishing its tenth year. The winery spent much of this time below periscope depth. The first two vintages were made and discarded when they did not meet the quality standard the winery was looking to set. The subsequent vintages – starting with the winery’s first releases from the 2003 vintage – have been nothing short of sublime. However, even these wines took many years to find their way into consumers’ hands.

Corliss Estates’ inaugural wines were not released until fall of 2008. Winery owners Michael and Lauri Corliss prefer to drink wines with some age on them, so the Corliss wines receive extended time in barrel and in the cellar before release. While this requires a great deal of patience and expense on the winery’s part – and money is no object at Corliss with no expense spared to try to make the best wine possible – it means that, unlike many high end wines, consumers can find immediate satisfaction upon release. However, the Corliss wines are also made for the long haul. The result from Corliss Estates is the best of both worlds for the wine consumer - wines one can purchase and immediately enjoy upon release but that can also lay down in the cellar for many years to come.

The 2005 vintage wines constitute Corliss Estates’ third release. Each of these wines – the Red Wine, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah - demonstrates why Corliss deserves to be considered among the best wineries in Washington State. The wines are simultaneously bold and nuanced, powerful yet refined.

The current releases were crafted by winemaker Kendall Mix. Mix left Corliss Estates last year to take a position close to home at Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard and Winery. Since that time, the winery has decided to use a team approach for winemaking with Michael Corliss providing increasing amounts of input and direction. The winery has also hired a top-flight consultant for occasional assistance as well. Additionally, Erik McLaughlin was recently hired as Director of Wineries.

In addition to Corliss Estates, Michael and Lauri Corliss have also opened a sister winery – Tranche Cellars (see reviews of the consistently excellent Tranche wines here). A third, Red Mountain Vineyard, waits in the wings. With these three wineries and a strong team in place, look for Corliss Estates and its sister wineries to make an increasingly large impact on the Washington wine scene in the decades to come.

Corliss Estates Red Wine Columbia Valley 2005 $65
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A very pretty, seductive nose with cedar, dust, coffee bean, caramel, and black cherries. A big but beautifully integrated wine plush with black cherry fruit accented by silky oak flavors. A thirty-plus second finish. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 9% Malbec, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Petit Verdot. Red Mountain, Stillwater, Weinbau, Northridge, Bacchus, and Stonetree vineyards. Aged 33 months in French oak (73% new). 14.9% alcohol. 450 cases produced.

Corliss Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2005 $75
Rating: ** (Exceptional) The aromas are arresting. Light herbal notes, high-toned cherries, licorice, earth, and cedar interweave on an elegantly expressive nose. A powerful wine that opens up and expands, coating the palate with espresso flavors and rich black cherries. Hangs on and on at the finish. More structured than the Red Wine and a bit more brooding. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot. Dionysus, Weinbau, Bacchus, Stillwater Creek, Northridge, and Stonetree vineyards. 15.1% alcohol. 228 cases produced.

Corliss Estates Syrah Columbia Valley 2005 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Compelling aromatics of campfire, smoked meat, berries, and earth rise up on a dark, brooding aroma profile. On the palate, a big, multiple swallow wine full of dark fruit and chocolate. The oak is beautifully integrated along with lithe tannins. 15.1% alcohol. 96% Syrah co-fermented with 3% Viognier and 1% Grenache. Stillwater, Birch Creek, Stonetree, and Evergreen vineyards. Aged 34 months in French oak (64% new). 15.1% alcohol. 388 cases produced.

Samples provided by winery.

The story of William Church Winery is a very much love story – both the love of two people and their love of wine. Owners Rod and Leslie Balsley met at Digital Equipment Corporation. They subsequently worked for various technology companies, including Hewlett Packard and Microsoft, before they became tired of the rat race and decided to follow their love of wine. “We looked at it as an enjoyable way to make a little bit of money,” Leslie Balsley says.

The couple’s fascination with wine began on their honeymoon in Italy. There they saw how imbedded wine was in the culture. They decided they wanted to make wine part of their lives.

Following the trip the Balsley’s moved next door to a man who had been making home wine for twenty years. The second year at the house, Rod helped his neighbor crush grapes. Rod said to him, “I know now why you asked me to come over a help!” It was not easy work. However, Rod was hooked.

The next year Rod Balsley split a half-ton of grapes with his neighbor and started making wine at home. After several years of homemaking, the couple decided to start a winery. Rod Balsley says, “When you have two kids and their growing up, you run out of space in your garage real quick.”

In deciding where to start their business, the couple looked at different areas in Walla Walla and Prosser. This was 2004 and Walla Walla had about 65 wineries. Leslie Balsley recalls thinking, “We’re going to be small fish in a big pond.” When they looked in Woodinville, however, she says, “We recognized immediately that there was tremendous potential here.”

Starting out, the Balsleys knew they would need help making the wine. From the beginning, they intended to take over winemaking in the short term. However, they were looking for assistance learning more about the process at a commercial level and making contracts in the industry. They interviewed four winemakers. Rod Balsley says that one of rules was, “We don’t want you to make your wine. It needs to be distinctive. It needs to be our wine.”

They ended up selecting winemaker Matthew Loso, then of Matthews Cellars. William Church Winery was founded by Rod and Leslie Balsley in 2005. The winery is named after Rod’s father William and the middle name of Leslie’s father, Church. Rod Balsley assumed winemaking responsibilities in 2008. Marcus Rafanelli, a graduate of the Walla Walla Community College School of Viticulture and Enology, joined as assistant winemaker that same year.

William Church is located in Woodinville’s Warehouse District. This area has grown dramatically in the last several years. In 2005, when William Church opened, there were seven wineries and tasting rooms located nearby. There are currently twenty-six.

Being in the Warehouse District has its advantages and its disadvantages. The Balsleys had originally hoped to tap into Seattle’s bustling tourist industry. They found, however, that it was somewhat difficult to do. It’s burdensome for people to take wine on a plane. People taking cruises are limited in the amount of wine they can take with them. Travelers from Canada face exorbitant taxes on wines they bring back.

The location of the Warehouse District is also fairly out of the way. Leslie Balsley says, “You gotta kind of want to get here. There’s nothing telling you off the freeway that there are any wineries here.” Indeed, there is very little signage for any of the wineries outside of the numerous sandwich boards that line the roads on weekends.

Despite all this, the Warehouse District is a bustle of activity. “It’s been certainly different than what we expected. But it’s still been a lot of fun,” Leslie Balsley says. The couple has considered opening a formal tasting room separate from their production facility. However, they’ve enjoyed educating consumers about winemaking and visitors love seeing the production process.

Talking about the changes over the five years they have been there, Leslie Balsley says, “It’s much more competitive. You have to be on your toes. Step one, you have to make really good wine.”

William Church produces Malbec, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. They also make a Syrah/Cabernet blend (2 Spires); the Bishop’s Blend as a value wine; and Sur La Mer which is named after the town in France where Leslie was born. The Viognier and Malbec in particular have become signature wines for the winery.

Both the Viognier and the Malbec started out almost by accident. The Balsley’s were interested initially in using the grapes for blending. However, Leslie Balsley says,“We had Viognier at a Thai restaurant and we thought, ‘Oh my God this is really good!’”

Practical matters had a consideration as well. Rod Balsley says, “So I got three tons of Viognier to co-ferment with my Syrah and I thought, wait a minute, I can’t put 3 tons and let it be 2% of my Syrah. I’m going to have a million gallons of it!” Balsley decided to make and bottle the Viognier as a varietally labeled wine and see how it went. The results were beyond expectations. “It came out really, really well,” Balsley says. Consumers agreed with the wine selling out quickly upon release.

While Viognier and Malbec have helped make a name for William Church Winery, Rod Balsley says that working with these grapes is somewhat nerve wracking. He says of Viognier, “It grows like a red and you have to pick it like a red…I worry about this grape and the Malbec the most. It’s so important when the grapes come off.”

Of the couple's experience with the winery over the past five years, Rod Balsley says, “All in all, it’s a lot of fun. You have to be a creative person to be a winemaker. It takes drive and passion. There’s got to be some creative juices in you to try to do this. We have that.”

William Church makes 1,500 cases annually.

William Church Viognier Columbia Valley 2009 $21
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with floral notes, peaches, and melon. Full and round on the palate with abundant fruit but beautiful balance. Lingers on the finish. Beautifully done. Conner Lee Vineyard. 14.3% alcohol. 240 cases produced.

William Church Malbec Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: +/* (Excellent) Dark in color. Very varietal with abundant black pepper, chocolate, and plum. Tart with abundant spice flavors on a well balanced palate. Gamache Vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. 180 Cases produced.

William Church Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $29
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Blackberry, herbal notes, spice, and a touch of licorice on an appealing, very varietal aroma profile. On the taste, a big, rich full-bodied wine with a big lick of tannins. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot. Portion of proceeds donated to the Scripps Research Institute. 250 cases produced.

William Church Syrah Yakima Valley 2007 $23
Rating: + (Good) Blackberries, spice and light floral notes on a moderately aromatic nose. On the taste, the wine shows abundant fruit and barrel flavors along with slightly drying tannins. 89% Syrah co-fermented with Viognier and 11% Malbec. Dineen Vineyard. 211 cases produced.

William Church Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: + (Good) Blackberry, dark chocolate, crushed stone, orange peel, and a whiff of pepper with an aroma profile markedly different than the 2007 offering. The palate shows a good deal more weight and intensity than the 2007 with pleasingly rich fruit. Best Syrah from this winery yet. 100% Syrah. Dineen Family, Red Willow, and Stillwater Creek vineyards. 196 cases produced.

William Church 2 Spires Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $28
Rating: + (Good) Earthy with black fruit and a touch of dark chocolate on a pleasing nose. Big and grippy on the palate with a slightly sour finish. 62% Stillwater Creek Syrah, 38% Conner Lee and Dineen Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

William Church Sur La Mer Columbia Valley $28
Rating: + (Good) An appealing nose with abundant blackberry fruit. On the palate, a rich wine that boasts a lot of fruit with an acidic blast at the finish. 40% Cabernet, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot. 250 cases produced.

William Church Bishop’s Blend Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $20
Rating: . (Decent) A touch of black pepper, blueberries and spice. Ramps up and then back down on a palate that boasts a lot of acid. 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Malbec, 11% Syrah, 9% Merlot, and 3% Cab Franc. 750 cases produced.

Va Piano Vineyards is a true family winery. On any given visit, winemaker Justin Wylie and his wife Liz are there along with their three young children. The winery is located south of downtown Walla Walla. Once off by itself, the area around the winery is now busting with wineries.

A fourth generation Walla Wallan, Justin Wylie was inspired to start Va Piano Vineyards during his senior year at Gonzaga University. That year, he spent time studying in Florence, Italy where he fell in love with the culture, art, and lifestyle. He decided to recreate a piece of that same lifestyle back in Walla Walla. Wylie built a beautiful Tuscan-style villa in the rolling hills south of town. The winery is as scenic as any in the valley with surrounding vineyards and the Blue Mountains as a backdrop.

Now in its seventh year, Va Piano Vineyards has a number of changes afoot – all expansions and improvements. This is the first year that the winery has made a Bruno’s Blend white wine. The wine is named after Father Bruno Segatta who Wylie met at Gonzaga. This wine is mostly Sauvignon Blanc with some Riesling added. For the corresponding Bruno’s Blend Red Wine – now in its sixth iteration – Wylie made this non-vintage version a bit more Cabernet-centric. Both are guaranteed crowd pleasers at reasonable price points.

The winery is also in the midst of planning for guest rooms to be built on the property along with a small meeting center. Matched with the winery’s stunning setting, this looks to be a can’t miss proposition and an excellent addition to the valley’s tourism industry.

Reflective of both an exceptional vintage and continued development of the estate vineyard and the winery, Va Piano’s current releases are the best that the winery has made. The Semillon, consistently a standout, now uses exclusively Walla Walla Valley fruit. For the Columbia Valley Cabernet and Syrah, Wyle blends from vineyards across the Walla Walla and Yakima Valleys and looks to maintain a consistent style. For the winery’s estate club program – whose fruit comes from the estate vineyard that surrounds the winery - Wylie gets less cautious, letting the results express both the site and the vintage. “We play the Mother Nature game with the Estate program,” Wiley says.

Wylie, an attentive father, says there are similarities to raising children and winemaking. “Wine is like your kids. You want them to behave all the time and they just don’t.” I can’t speak to Wylie’s children, but the Va Piano wines are behaving quite nicely.

Va Piano Vineyards Bruno’s Blend I White Wine Columbia Valley $15
Rating: + (Good) Light straw colored. Abundant citrus aromas along with peaches, lemon drop, mineral and tropical fruit. On the palate, a crisp, clean, crowd pleasing wine. 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Riesling. Tank fermented. 13.8% alcohol. 500 cases produced. Recommended

Va Piano Vineyards Semillon Walla Walla Valley 2009 $20
Rating: * (Excellent) Yeast, dried pineapple, and citrus aromas on an alluring, aromatic wine. A beautifully rounded palate with lemon and mineral. 100% Semillon. Seven Hills, Double River Ranch, and Les Collines vineyards.

Va Piano Vineyards Bruno’s Blend VI Red Wine NV Columbia Valley $23
Rating: + (Good) Black currant, tobacco leaf, and black cherry on the nose. Big and fruity on the palate. At times a bit astringent but a lot of wine for the money. 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 10% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc. 14.3% alcohol. 910 cases produced.

Va Piano Vineyards Syrah Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant ground black licorice along with cherry on an aromatic wine. Big and rich on the palate with gobs of fruit and chocolate. Best Syrah from this winery to date. 100% Syrah. 14% Va Piano Estate, 16% Minnick, 32% Portteus, and 38% Lewis. Aged 15 months in French oak (30% new). 14.5% alcohol. 689 cases produced.

Va Piano Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with abundant chocolate, licorice, red and black fruit and a whiff of pepper on a complex aroma profile. A big, massive wine full of fruit with a big tannic lick. An impressive effort. 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot, 2% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot. Seven Hills, Portteus Vineyard, Klipsun, Va Piano Estate Vineyard, and Pepper Bridge vineyards. Aged in French oak (50% new) for 23 months. 14.4% alcohol. 934 cases produced.

Va Piano Vineyards Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2008 Barrel Sample
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Gorgeous aromatics full of floral notes and fresh berries. The wine has a beautiful richness to the mid-palate with lush fruit flavors complemented by a well-structured backbone.

A special Christmas round-up of stories on Washington wine from December 15^th to 21^st. See previous round-ups here.


From around the country…

The Illonois State Journal-Register writes about holiday gift ideas with a shout out to Milbrandt’s Late Harvest Riesling.

The Knoxville Sentinel gives their best of 2010 with a shout out to Andrew Will and NXNW.

Santa Fe New Mexican writes about memorable wine moments in 2010 with a shout out to the Cayuse 2007 Armada.

MSNBC writes about a possible earmark on Washington grapes.

The Kansas City Star writes about grape gifts from around the world with a shout out to Washington.


From the blogosphere…

Sips & The City writes about Seattle’s Wine World.

365 Things to Do in Walla Walla Washington writes about Olive Marketplace and Café.

Sip of Spokane writes about Arbor Crest.

Paul Gregutt writes about Ross Andrew Winery. He also says, “Death to critics!”

Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog writes about Top Value Wines from 2010. Josh also writes Best from the Wine Web in 2010.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about a recent Grapekillers event.

Zester Daily recommends Washington Wines & Wineries: The Essential Guide.

Write for Wine says Washington Wines & Wineries: The Essential Guide is the perfect Christmas gift.

The Wine Guild writes about a wine that’s not as annoying as Tom Cruise.

Northwest Wine writes about 2010s best of the best.

WINO Magazine writes about what to chug on Christmas. They also write about seven ways to puncture a wind bag.

The Oregon Wine Blog writes about wine clubs.

Wine Peeps writes about a tasting of Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. They also write about holiday sparklers.

Blue Collar Wine Guy writes about best under $20 wines from 2010.

Food, Wine, Travel, and Dining Out writes about their top wines of 2010.

GrapeHillFarmWallaWalla writes about wine labels.

Edhat Santa Barbara writes about the Pepper Bridge Merlot.

Enobytes writes about Nicholas Cole Cellars.

Seattle Wine Blog writes about what to do during the holiday season.


From the locals…

Seattle PI writes that Governor Gregoire is open to privatizing liquor sales.

KNDO says that the holiday season has been a boost to Yakima Valley wine sales.

The News Tribune writes about Nicolas Cole Cellars closing.

The Olympian writes that red wines don’t have to be pricey.


Leftovers (posts from previous weeks)…

Wine Press NW talks with Mike Wallace of Hinzerling Winery.

Wine Valley Review writes about Seattle area wineries.


That’s all folks!

You cannot talk with Woodward Canyon Winery’s Rick Small without coming away excited about wine, the winery, and the Walla Walla Valley. It is simply not possible. Small could be a motivational speaker for winemakers his love of viticulture and enology is so infectious.

Small is lean and wiry, intense and passionate. Among the things he is most passionate about are viticulture and his estate vineyard. This is so much the case that Small handed off winemaking responsibilities to Kevin Mott in 2003 to focus on the vineyard. “I figure if I can bring better fruit down to him, it’s a win-win,” Small says.

Bring better fruit down from the vineyard is exactly what Small has done. The Woodward Canyon wines are consistently among the best, most age-worthy wines made in Washington. The 2007 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon in particular is a wine that will stand as a testament to this exceptional vintage and this exceptional winery for decades to come.

Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard is a short distance from the winery. This is the Small family’s third generation on this land, with Rick’s grandfather on his father’s side settling down in the Walla Walla Valley and growing vegetables. The vineyard has stunning vistas overlooking the Walla Walla Valley. “I can’t tell you how much I love coming up here,” Small said on a recent trip to the site.

It wasn’t always like this. When he started out farming, Small wasn’t sure how he was going to make a living. “Wine grapes changed that,” he says. Since the winery’s founding in 1981, Woodward Canyon has grown to produce 17,000 cases annually. Much of that goes to the winery’s second label, Nelms Road.

The estate vineyard is planted to forty-two acres of grapes, with some vines over thirty years old. The vineyard has diverse plantings that include Dolcetto and Barbera. Grenache and other Rhone varietals were planted about five years ago. Small says growing the Grenache has been a struggle, particularly getting the vines to survive the winter, but he remains optimistic. “I’m not doing it to make a lot of money out of it. I just like it!” he says excitedly. A small well at the bottom of the vineyard supplies water to the site.

The vineyard is grown organically, although it is not certified as such (this is considerably more difficult). Small was one of the founding members of Vinea, the Walla Walla Valley’s Winegrowers Sustainable Trust. Small says, “sustainability led down the road to organic.” In addition to the grape vines, there is a tiny garden that has been organic for about twenty years at the bottom of the vineyard. Small delivers the vegetables from the garden to area restaurants.

Rick and his wife and winery co-founder Darcey Fugman-Small hope is to pass the business and vineyard on to the next generation. The Smalls’ daughter works at a laboratory at nearby Long Shadows. Their son works in the food industry. Rick Small says of the vineyard, “When my kids come out, I’m going to leave this soil more alive than when I got this from my dad.”

Don’t look for Small to go anywhere any time soon though. “I’m not going to retire,” Small says. Sixty-three years young with the energy of someone half that age, Small says that he is simply “trying to slow it down and enjoy the ride.” Amen.

Woodward Canyon Dry White Riesling Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) A very appealing aroma profile with pink grapefruit, mineral notes, and lemon rind. Tart and spritely acidic on the palate. Sampled at 58 degrees.

Woodward Canyon Estate Sauvignon Blanc Walla Walla Valley 2009 $26
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatic wine with pear, mineral, citrus, and melon. Crisp and textured on the palate with an extended finish. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. 14.8% alcohol. 281 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Estate Chardonnay Walla Walla Valley 2009 $54
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A gorgeous aroma profile redolent with melon, spice, and banana. Beautifully textured on the palate with lively acidity that carries the flavors across the palate to a seemingly endless finish. One of the best Washington State Chardonnays I have had. 100% Chardonnay. Barrel fermented and aged in 1-year-old Burgundy barrels. 14.1% alcohol. 98 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Chardonnay Washington State 2009 $44
Rating: * (Excellent) A lightly aromatic wine with spice, hay, and traces of apple. A rounded, textured mouthfeel speckled with varietal flavors stitched together with a zip of acidity. 100% Chardonnay. 64% Celilo Vineyard, 36% Woodward Canyon Estate. Fermented and aged in French Burgundy barrels (20% new). 14.1% alcohol. 616 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Estate Barbera Walla Walla Valley 2009 $24
Rating: + (Good) Lively aromatics of cherries, rhubarb, and bright red fruit. A zing of acidity on a palate that shows lots of fruit and pretty oak accents. 100% Barbera. 15.7% alcohol. 252 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Merlot Columbia Valley 2006 $41
Rating: + (Good) An aromatic wine with toasty oak spices, butterscotch, and cherries. Palate boasts a lot of fruit but has a bit of a bight toward the finish. 81% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Syrah. Weinbau, Woodward Canyon Estate, Sagemoor, and DuBrul vineyards. 14.6% alcohol. 623 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State 2006 $49
Rating: * (Excellent) A pleasing aroma profile with abundant earth, spice, and black and red fruit. A textured palate with a firm backbone of tannins. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Syrah, 1% Merlot. Champoux, DuBrul, Sagemoor, Woodward Canyon Estate, and Charbonneau vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. 2472 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State 2007 $49
Rating: * (Excellent) A big wine with compelling aromatics of black fruit, licorice, and spice. Rich and intense on the palate with black fruit and butterscotch flavors. 99% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Petit Verdot. Champoux (79%), Sagemoor (20%) and Woodward Canyon Estate vineyards (1%). 14.6% alcohol. 1,934 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Estate Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2005 $61
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. Toasty spices pair with rich cherry aromas. A big wine that is quite stiff on the palate – loaded with fruit and tannins. This is one for the cellar but the results will not disappoint. 68% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Petit Verdot. 14.4% alcohol. 405 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Estate Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2006 $59
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Smalls says that he, “Envisioned this wine to be more Cabernet-based and it just didn’t turn out that way” winding up as a Cabernet Franc heavy blend. Campfire, wood smoke, rich blackberries, light herbal notes, and dark chocolate on an aromatic wine. Big, rich, and full on the palate with firm but well integrated tannins. The wine has a lot of oak on it but it works. Hangs and hangs and hangs on the finish. 42% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot. Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard. 14.8% alcohol. 294 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 $79
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Intoxicating varietal aromatics of intensely dark fruit and chocolate along with spice and licorice. The palate is seamless and structured, rich and intense. Beautifully layered with a long, long finish. Nothing short of an accomplishment of a wine. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Champoux (74%) and Sagemoor vineyards (26%). Aged in new French oak. 14.8% alcohol. 628 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Charbonneau Red Wine Walla Walla County 2008 $69
Rating: * (Excellent) An engaging nose with vanilla, a touch of pepper, cherries, and some green notes. Spreads out across the palate with rich fruit buffeted by spicy oak flavors. Winds and weaves on the finish. Give 2-3 years. First year including Petit Verdot. 77% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.1% alcohol. 198 cases produced.

For many, the Christmas season is a time for giving to those who are less fortunate. This is how Carl Robanske spends his Christmas holiday.

Robanske works as a teacher at Garrison Creek Middle School in Walla Walla. Several years ago he was looking for more ways to make an impact on young children’s lives. Robanske was particularly interested in working with orphaned children.

“I don't know exactly why or when or even what was the catalyst to prompt my interest in children with no family. I do know that it was something deep though, some strong call in my heart to love children who don't believe they are loved,” Robanske says.

Robanske took an unusual approach to determine where he should focus his efforts. He simply picked the underserved area that had the least expensive flight from Washington State. That flight turned out to be to Jamaica.

That year, Robanske spent his Christmas working as a childcare worker at a Jamaican orphanage. The experience was transformative. “The children were starving for relationships and love,” he says. Robanske became determined to make a difference.

Robanske started a non-profit organization called Embracing Orphans in 2008. The all volunteer organization works through fundraising and outreach trips to improve the lives of orphaned children. Embracing Orphans is currently working with two orphanages in Jamaica – Blossom Gardens Child Care Facility and Windsor Girls' Home.

Blossom Gardens is located in Montego Bay. The facility houses seventy-five children from newborns to age eight, with a focus on abused, neglected, and orphaned children. Windsor Girls' Home is located in St. Ann’s Bay. The facility houses sixty teenage girls who are impoverished, abused, or orphaned.

At Blossom Gardens, Embracing Orphans has done numerous projects from providing toddler toys, to funding two commercial playgrounds, replacing worn out cribs, constructing a library, and providing dental checkups.

While Blossom Gardens has very serious needs, Windsor's needs are even more basic. Robanske says, “After my fifth trip I came across a newspaper article that outlined the atrocities at Windsor. Men were coming in the evening and luring the girls out of the home for sexual relationships and illicit drug use. Something like this turns your stomach, but forgetting about it is still easier than doing something about it. I chose the latter.” Embracing Orphans is currently working to build a security wall at Windsor to protect the orphanage from people who prey upon the children.

To date, over 160 volunteers from four different countries have served in Jamaica through Embracing Orphans. The organization has worked with three churches in Walla Walla as well as one in California and one in Indiana to help form teams.

Of course, all of this takes money. Embracing Orphans has conducted a number of fund-raisers to help raise money for their efforts. Most recently, Robanske has teamed with Walla Walla winemaker Josh McDaniel’s of Sweet Valley Wines to make a wine whose profits are dedicated to the cause.

Robanske had been McDaniels swim instructor, and the two had remained friends. McDaniels traveled to Jamaica with Robanske this time last year to help volunteer at the orphanage. McDaniels says, “At first I wasn’t sure how bad it could be. A nice, tropical island with great resorts? No problem.” What he found however was something quite different.

“We were surrounded by gunfire, snuck into a girls school in the middle of a jungle at night to film child trafficking, dealt with gangs, drug dealers, and even corrupt local authorities and orphanage leadership. This was definitely not the resort Jamaica we are all used to seeing on T.V,” McDaniels says.

McDaniels and Robanske first talked about doing a joint project to help raise money for Embracing Orphans several years ago. “My first year of college, I began to talk more and more to Carl about Embracing Orphans and what kinds of things that he needed. Money and awareness became the two large topics and hurdles in the way of achieving abundant success for the lives of the many orphaned,” McDaniels said. He saw a way that he could use his winemaking talents for just these purposes.

Robanske and McDaniels will be releasing their first wine dedicated to raising money for Embracing Orphans – called Monesia’s Song - in spring of 2011. The wine is named after one of the orphans Robanske met in Jamaica. The girl, Monesia, hardly ever spoke. However, after several weeks of working with Embracing Orphans volunteers, she suddenly began to not only to talk - but to sing.

The Monesia’s Song label contains the girl’s image painted by the Carribbean artist Elgo. The wine will be sold via a mailing list as well as to select restaurants. Thirty percent of the proceeds go to charity with the rest covering production expenses.

McDaniels says that the experience of volunteering in Jamaica and seeing the problems and the poverty has made him even more focused on wanting to help. “If I can even sell one case of Monesia’s Song and change one child’s life with the money and awareness from that, then the project has totally been worth it,” he says.

Meanwhile, as with previous Christmas holidays, Robanske is currently in Jamaica, working to make a difference.

Monesia’s Song Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $60
Rating: + (Good) Abundant plum and pepper aromas along with black fruit, cola, milk chocolate, licorice, and light floral notes. The palate is dry and grippy with lots of tart fruit flavors. Needs time to fully come into its own. Give 12 months. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot. Birch Creek, Golden Ridge, Les Collines, and Seven Hills vineyards. Aged in French oak (50% new). 14.8% alcohol. 75 cases produced.

Sample provided by winery.

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

Pacific Rim is Washington State’s Riesling specialist. This beautiful dessert wine – the 2007 Vin de Glacier – hails from Selenium Vineyard. Grapes were frozen and then pressed with the resulting juice approximately 36 Brix. The wine was then fermented to 16% Residual Sugar but the wine retains the acidity to pull it off. The final result is a compelling wine that drinks like a wine of a much higher price point - a perfect punctuation to any meal.

McKinley Springs is one of a small number of Washington wineries that include a Chenin Blanc in their lineup. Wines like this 2008 offering from the winery’s original 1981 planting make one wonder why. This is a deliciously enjoyable wine at a fantastic price. The Late Harvest Chenin, also reviewed below, is from the same vineyard from the previous vintage.

This is the third consecutive month that I have reviewed a wine from Renegade Wine Co. in the Five Under Fifteen, so you all know the drill. Trey Busch of Sleight of Hand Cellars buys the juice and puts the wines out for can’t-be-beat prices. Renegade Wine Co. is quickly establishing itself as a go-to winery for Washington value wines.

Waving Tree Vineyards & Winery is located in the Columbia Gorge, just below the Maryhill Stonehenge War Memorial. The winery’s vineyards, which see a mere twelve inches of rain annually, include plantings of Barbera, Grenache, Syrah, Zinfandel, Sangiovese, and Muscat Canelli.

See previous Five Under $15s here.

Pacific Rim Vin de Glacier Riesling Selenium Vineyard Columbia Valley 2007 $14
Rating: * (Excellent) Ever so slightly copper in color. Leaps from the glass with diesel, lemon peel, orange rind, pear, and brown sugar. Coats the palate with orange peel flavors. A thick, rich wine with well-balanced acidity. A persistent finish. 10.4%, acid is 0.88%, pH 3.14, and Residual Sugar 16.0%.

McKinley Springs Chenin Blanc Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $12
Rating: + (Good) Light golden color. A very appealing nose with hay, melon, tropical fruit, and ripe Golden Delicious apples. The palate is off dry and full with a rounded, creamy feel stitched together by bright acidity. 14.2% alcohol. 1.5% Residual Sugar. 546 cases produced. Recommended

McKinley Springs Heaven’s Reward Late Harvest Chenin Blanc Horse Heaven Hills 2007 $14
Rating: + (Good) Nose shows dried pineapple, brown sugar, honey, and peach. A soft, pretty palate nicely accent by sugar. Aged sur lies in stainless steel with limited amount also aged in new oak. 10.5% alcohol. 11% Residual Sugar. 461 cases produced.

Renegade Wine Co. Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills 2008 $15
Rating: + (Good) Varietal aromas of herbal notes and pepper along with cherry on a lightly aromatic nose. Palate is very dry but with an abundant amount of fruit with a bit of a sour pickle finish. Tannins are a bit drying but overall a very enjoyable wine.

Waving Tree Sangiovese Estate Columbia Valley 2008 $14
Rating: . (Decent) A pleasing, fairly aromatic wine with cranberries, red currant, and earth along with vanilla. As the wine opens up it shows light herbal notes along with oak accents. Palate is a quite tart and the wine finishes a bit astringent.

Today’s fresh sheet - reviews of recent and current Washington wine releases – includes wines from Lantz Cellars, Fielding Hills Winery, and Dunham Cellars.

Lantz Cellars

Kevin Lantz founded Lantz Cellars in 2003. Lantz is a self-taught winemaker, saying, “I figured I could either get a UC Davis education or buy a bunch of equipment and just go for it.” Go for it he did - although he bought some UC Davis books as well as any others he could find along the way.

Lantz has focused the winery on small production wines - the winery produces four hundred cases annually - making a Sauvignon Blanc, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Syrah, and a Malbec. A Mélange was recently added to the mix. This year Lantz is experimenting with making a Port-style wine using Touriga Nacional, Sousão, and Tinto Cão grapes from Red Mountain Vineyards. A late night discussion with a fellow winemaker served as the inspiration.

Lantz Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) Very pretty varietal aromas of grapefruit and mineral along with tropical notes and wet stone. The palate is bright, fresh, and tart with a slightly sour finish. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Buoy Vineyards, Yakima Valley. Aged 30 months in Acacia wood. 13.5% alcohol. 30 cases produced.

Lantz Cellars Premier Mélange Columbia Valley 2007 $29
Rating: + (Good) An alluring aroma profile with dark fruit, blueberry pie, spice, vanilla, and light wood accents. The palate is tight and compact with a big ball of fruit at the core along with dry, chalky tannins. A very well made wine. Oak occasionally comes a bit too far to the fore. 72% Merlot (Buoy Vineyards), 22% Cabernet Sauvignon (Lawrence Vineyards), and 6% Petit Verdot (Gilbert Vineyards). Aged 18 months in thin stave French oak. 15.7% alcohol.

Lantz Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $34
Rating: * (Excellent) An appealing nose with abundant toast and smoke notes along with black cherry and a touch of anise. Very dry and chalky on the palate with firm tannins and light herbal flavors. An extended finish. A beautiful expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. 94 % Cabernet Sauvignon 4% Malbec, and 2% Petit Verdot. Lawrence Vineyards. Aged 24 months in French oak. 15.9% alcohol.

Lantz Cellars Malbec Rattlesnake Hills 2007 $29
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) A very pretty, very varietal aroma profile with plum, pepper, and light green notes. The palate is fresh and tart, dipping slightly in the middle before coming back and sailing. 99% Malbec (Verhey Vineyards), 1% Petit Verdot (Gilbert Vineyards). Aged 18 months in 265l Hungarian oak. 15% alcohol. 82 cases produced.

Lantz Cellars Syrah Rattlesnake Hills 2007 $27
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas grab you and pull you into the glass with blueberry pie, smoke, vanilla, and licorice. The palate is tart with black and blue fruit flavors. Quite dry with a lot of tannic structure. 100% Syrah. Verhey Vineyards. Aged 24 months in Rhone-style 100 gallon casks. 15.7% alcohol.

Fielding Hills Winery

Fielding Hills Winery winemaker Mike Wade is a third generation fruit grower. In mid-1990s as the Red Delicious apple market was plummeting, he and his wife Karen decided to plant grapes in the Wahluke Slope at a vineyard site near Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Indian Wells Vineyard (see a previous post on the winery with additional details here). The Wades now have 25 acres of grapes and 1,800 acres of apples and cherries.

Though recently completing its tenth vintage, Fielding Hills has never had a tasting room. Rather, the Wades have sold their wines through a mailing list and self-distributed them to a limited number of retailers. After deciding to expand production to 1,400 cases, the Wades decided that the time was right.

At first, they thought about opening a tasting room at the winery in Wenatchee. The location is beautiful with commanding views overlooking the valley. However, after being discouraged by the numerous hoops they needed to jump through, they abandoned the idea.

Instead, the winery joined Seattle’s newly opened Urban Enoteca. Tucked away next to a bridge a short distance south of Starbucks' headquarters, the facility is stunning with plush leather seats, waterfalls and features, and a fireplace. Most importantly, however, the facility is also home to top wineries Fidelitas, Kiona, Cote Bonneville, Five Star, McCrea, and Cave B. “We’re really excited about the other wineries that are there,” Karen Wade said.

The facility is also ideal for having winery events, with several different banquet rooms and event spaces. Speaking with the Wades at the opening of the facility, they were giddy with excitement, having hired their first employee and working through the final kinks - all the while of course shepherding the children back and forth from soccer games.

Fielding Hills has consistently produced some of Washington's finest wines. The 2008 vintage releases are, however, nothing short of the best wines the winery has produced.

Fielding Hills Tribute Riverbend Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2008 $32
Rating: + (Good) Dark in color. Dark fruit, abundant sweet spice notes, and chocolate on an aromatic nose. The palate is tart and chock full of fruit with a slightly sharp note toward the finish. 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 22% Syrah, 21% Cabernet Franc. Aged 19 months in American and French oak (72% new). 15.15% alcohol. 126 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Fielding Hills Merlot Riverbend Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2008 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. Dark and brooding on the nose with blackberry, red fruit, mint, milk chocolate, and sweet spices. On the palate, big and bold with opulent yet refined black and red fruit and dry chocolate. Capped off by a tart, winding finish. 91% Merlot, 5% Syrah, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 19 months in American and French oak (72% new). 14.5% alcohol. 190 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Fielding Hills Cabernet Franc Riverbend Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark and brilliant in color. The nose is seductive with herbal notes, milk chocolate, and sweet spices. The palate is big and rich with impeccable balance. The wine opens up and expands and coats the palate with dark fruit, chocolate flavors, and beautifully integrated tannins. 88% Cabernet Franc, 6% Syrah, 4% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 19 months in American and French oak (72% new). 15.15% alcohol. 174 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Fielding Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2008 $42
Rating: ** (Exceptional) The nose is enticing with rich chocolate, blackberry, red currant, very light herbal notes, and a whiff of cough syrup accented by sweet spices. The palate is dry and tightly wound with rich, sinewy fruit flavors that cross the palate in waves and linger long after the last sip. A prototype of Cabernet Sauvignon. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot. Aged 19 months in American and French oak (72% new). 15.2% alcohol. 192 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Fielding Hills Syrah Riverbend Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2008 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Nose is alluring with blackberries, blueberries, bittersweet chocolate, and a whiff of licorice. The palate is rich and layered, filled with chocolate and berry flavors wrapped in silky oak textures. Glides along on the finish. A very pretty wine that displays a lush styling reminiscent of an Australian Shiraz. 94% Syrah, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Aged 19 months in American and French oak (72% new). 15.63% alcohol. 174 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Dunham Cellars

Dunham Cellars is one of Walla Walla’s longer tenured wineries. Eric Dunham made the winery’s first vintage in 1995. Though Dunham retains the title of Senior Winemaker, Dan Wampfler joined Dunham Cellars as winemaker in 2008. Wampfler had previously worked as a research winemaker at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates before working and Canoe Ridge Winery and then assistant winemaker at Columbia Crest.

Dunham Cellars is located in the Airport region of Walla Walla in a remodeled World War II era airplane hangar. The winery is one of the larger producers in the valley, making 20,000 cases annually. Though no stranger to large production wineries, Wampfler says of working at Dunham, “It’s either crazy or insane!”

While looking to maintain the winery’s style, Wampfler also hopes to put his own imprint on the wines. Since starting at the winery, Wampfler has implemented a number of changes, such as putting jackets on open top fermenters to better control fermentation temperatures and emphasizing hand harvesting and sorting. Tasting a number of the 2009 wines in the barrel, Wampfler seems ready to build on Dunham’s success.

Wampfler is one of several dynamic winemaking duos in the Walla Walla Valley, married to Sinclair Estate Vineyards winemaker Amy Alvarez-Wampfler.

Dunham Cellars Shirley Mays Chardonnay Lewis Estate Columbia Valley 2007 $19
Rating: + (Good) Straw, toast, and papaya mark an appealing nose. The palate shows a fair amount of oak flavors and feel but its fairly well integrated. A slight bite toward the finish is all that holds this wine back. 100% Chardonnay. Lewis Estate Vineyard. Aged in 90% stainless steel and 10% French oak. 14.9% alcohol. 329 cases produced.

Dunham Cellars Four legged White Riesling Columbia Valley 2007 $14
Rating: + (Good) A very intriguing style with abundant mineral aromas along with Golden Delicious apples. The palate is off dry but the sugar is well balanced by acid and the wine possesses pleasing fruit flavors. Lingers on the palate. 100% Riesling. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 2.8% Residual Sugar. 12.3% alcohol. 2,166 cases produced. Recommended.

Dunham Cellars Riesling Lewis Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008 $22
Rating: * (Excellent) A pleasing aroma profile that shows a mix of yellow and green apples along with abundant mineral notes. Old World in style, the palate is off dry and full of apple flavors. 100% Riesling. 2.4% Residual Sugar. 12.9% alcohol. 672 cases produced.

Dunham Cellars Trutina Columbia Valley 2007 $26
Rating: * (Excellent) Distinctive aromas of mint and red fruit on the nose. The palate is elegantly structured with luscious, tart red fruit flavors. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Syrah, 17% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Lewis Estate, Double River Estate, and Frenchtown Estate vineyards. 13.9% alcohol. 5,588 cases produced.

Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon XII Columbia Valley 2006 $45
Rating: * (Excellent) An appealing aroma profile with high-toned cherry fruit, spice, and earth. The palate is tart with red fruit and has a good, tannic grip. Drinking well now but has the structure to lay down in the cellar. Lewis Estate and Double River Estate vineyards. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in French and American oak. 14.3% alcohol. 1,788 cases produced.

Dunham Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2005 $35
Rating: + (Good) Abundant earth aromas mark the nose along with red fruit and a distinctive spice component. Big and rich on the palate with delicious red fruit flavors, lots of acid, and a good deal of tannic structure. 100% Syrah. Lewis Estate, Frenchtown, and Double River Estate vineyards. Aged in French (50%) and American oak. 14.1% alcohol. 1,612 cases produced.

Dunham Cellars Syrah Lewis Vineyard Columbia Valley 2006 $75
Rating: * (Excellent) The nose shows Rainier cherries, clove, cedar, and cherry cola. The palate is big and intense, loaded with fresh rhubarb flavors. While a 2006, this is a hefty wine that could still use some time in the cellar. 100% Syrah. Aged in French and American oak. 14.4% alcohol. 453 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Dunham Cellars Merlot Lewis Vineyard Columbia Valley 2006 $75
Rating: + (Good) Lots of cranberries and other red fruit along with licorice, light herbal notes, and mint. The taste packs a big, big punch. Tannins are a bit aggressive on an otherwise very enjoyable wine. An unapologetically big Washington Merlot. 100% Merlot. Aged in French and American oak. 13.8% alcohol. 462 cases produced.

Dunham Cellars Late Harvest Riesling Columbia Valley 2008 $19
Rating: * (Excellent) A richly aromatic wine with papaya, mango, and pineapple. The palate is thick and rich with marmalade flavors. 100% Riesling. 23% Residual Sugar. 9.5% alcohol. 750 cases produced.