Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report

Many wine lovers have epiphanies in their wine journeys. For Mark McNeilly, founder of Woodinville’s Mark Ryan Winery, his “kick in the head” from Washington Merlot came early.

“I was working for Unique Wine Company [and] making garage wine back in the late 90s,” McNeilly recalls. “I bought a six pack of L’Ecole Merlot from Larry’s Market in North Seattle, and I brought it home and said, ‘Okay, I’m going to start a wine cellar.’”

Things did not turn out as planned.

“We tanked that whole six pack the first weekend!” McNeilly says laughing, as he recalls pouring the wine into a large bowl and then back into the bottle as he didn’t own a decanter.

“I can taste that wine right now. It was so good! It was glorious! It kind of felt like Cabernet but had the softness of this great Merlot fruit.”

When McNeilly launched Mark Ryan winery in 1999, he didn’t start out necessarily intending to put a spotlight on the variety.

“I set out to try and make these great blends that a lot of people were doing,” McNeilly says. “Those were the wines that I fell in love with from Washington. Merlot was always a part of that, but I don’t know if I set out to make Merlot.”

What he did set out to do was focus on fruit from Red Mountain fruit, initially stalwart vineyards Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun, which remain key fruit sources. The two blends McNeilly began with were the Cabernet Sauvignon focused Dead Horse and Merlot dominant Long Haul, two wines that would come to define the winery for Washington wine lovers everywhere. As it turns out, Red Mountain is a special spot for Merlot.

“It’s a windy site, so the grapes are often smaller with thicker skins making them a little bit more tannic,” McNeilly explains. “So what you have is that really soft fruit that Merlot offers, but it’s wrapped in some great structure from Red Mountain. It takes something that could be a little simple and fruity and gives it a lot more complexity and depth.”

Over time, the winery’s Long Haul has evolved.

“Every year, I kept putting more and more Merlot into it,” McNeilly says. In fact, the 2015 through 2017 wines have been varietally designated rather than listed as a red wine as in previous years.

In 2015, the winery also a reserve Merlot, called Little Sister, to its portfolio. 100% varietal, it’s made from a selection of the winery’s top barrels.

“We have access to the very best Merlot planted in Washington state,” McNeilly says. “[Winemaker] Mike [Macmorran] and I go through and we choose very specific vineyards, lots, and barrels and put a small blend of 100% Merlot together.”

The 2017 vintage was my 2020 Washington Merlot Challenge wine for April. Most of the fruit comes from Quintessence Vineyard on Red Mountain, where Mark Ryan partnered with grower Dick Shaw to have vines planted for the winery. The rest comes from esteemed Red Willow. Aromas of Red Vines, dark raspberry, herb and dark chocolate lead to palate coating, textured fruit flavors, showing depth and freshness (Wine Enthusiast 93 points, Cellar Selection). Like the Merlot that inspired Mark McNeilly all those years ago, it too is a glorious wine.

And the name?

“Merlot is the little sister to Cabernet in weight and style,” McNeilly says. “It’s also a pretty killer Queens of the Stone Age song.”

While Merlot has taken its licks in the last 15 years, McNeilly says there is no shame in loving the variety.

“It’s got great structure, but it’s got all that plush dark fruit which is so good. It’s supremely drinkable. People should be proud to be ordering Merlot.”

Bloom has begun in the Columbia Valley, with vineyard manager Brittany Komm-Sanders of Precept Wine seeing it in Chardonnay at Skyfall Vineyard in Yakima Valley on May 21st. Komm-Sanders noted bloom began in this same block on May 24th in 2019.

Here we go!

Merriam Webster Dictionary defines North Star as “the star of the northern hemisphere toward which the axis of the earth points.” So the axis of Washington wine once pointed strongly toward the singularity of the state’s Merlot.

Northstar Winery was founded in 1994 by Stimson Lane, the parent company of Chateau Ste Michelle, with the goal of producing high end Merlot (Stimson Lane has subsequently been renamed Ste Michelle Wine Estates).

“Back then, Merlot was the number one red in the U.S.,” recalls Northstar winemaker David Merfeld.

There were plenty of reason to believe that Washington could excel at making Merlot. Leonetti Cellar, Woodward Canyon, Andrew Will, Seven Hills Winery, and many others had shown great success with the variety. There was even talk of Merlot being Washington’s ‘signature variety.’

These were also still relatively early days in the Washington wine industry. While there had been plenty of successes, there was also concern about the state’s cold winters and, to some extent, whether it was warm enough to consistently grow certain red varieties. In this way, Merlot seemed a perfect fit.

“Merlot always gets ripe in Washington,” Merfeld says. “Going back to when I was first starting 20 something years ago, in those vintages Cab didn’t always get ripe. In cooler vintages, it didn’t quite make it. The quality was not as high as it is now. Merlot always got ripe.”

Back in 2000, David Merfeld was working as a brewer at Bert Grants, a brewery owned by Stimson Lane. When the company prepared to sell the brand, they asked Merfeld if he wanted to stay on board, working for Northstar.

“I went directly from the brewery,” Merfeld recalls. “It was right after Labor Day weekend, and I went to our winery at the old Saddle Mountain location.”

Merfeld started out working the night shift overseeing white wine pressing for Ste Michelle, while working at Northstar during the day.

“It was the first time I’d ever seen grapes being harvested,” he recalls.

In 2004, Northstar opened its winery in Walla Walla Valley, with Leonetti Cellar, Seven Hills Winery, Spring Valley Vineyard, L'Ecole No. 41, and others showing the valley to be a special spot for the variety. Come 2006, Merfeld was named winemaker.

What does Merfeld believe makes Merlot special as a variety?

“I love Merlot because to me it’s just an elegant wine with a velvety texture to it. It pairs well with so many foods. Cabernet I love, but that one kind of hits you over the head.”

Northstar makes three different offerings of Merlot. The first is its flagship Columbia Valley wine, which has been produced since 1994. This Merlot is sourced from over 20 different vineyards throughout the valley. Starting in 2000, Northstar also started making a Walla Walla Valley Merlot.

“Walla Walla is a special place [for Merlot],” Merfeld says. “We’ve probably got three different types of wines you can make, from the valley floor around Pepper Bridge and Northstar to Spring Valley down to all of the things that are going on down by Seven Hills and Anna Marie [Vineyard].” The winery also makes a Premier Merlot, intended for longer term aging.

Washington Merlot is known for its often firmer tannic structure than many of the wines found elsewhere in the world. This along with its ripe, sumptuous fruit flavors, are what delivers so much of the appeal of Washington Merlots. One of the ways that Merfeld accommodates for this additional structure is by using a substantial amount of whole berry fermentation, often between 40-60%.

“That definitely helps to soften the wines,” he says. Merfeld also prefers a slower overall fermentation.

“I like it better when I stretch it out for the tannins, and I also think you get better aromatics. You lock them in a little better.”

For March, my 2020 Washington Merlot Challenge wine was the Northstar 2010 Columbia Valley Merlot. 2010 was a cool vintage, the coolest the state had seen since 1999. The wine was in a beautiful spot, still seeming remarkably youthful, with notes of mint, raspberry, and chocolate. It had the smooth, textured palate that great Washington Merlot can offer along with the vibrant acidity of the vintage.

“I love the cooler vintages,” Merfeld says. “We’ve adjusted and adapted to these [recent] warmer vintages, but the cool ones always stand out. We always get phenolic ripeness and color. It’s about locking that acid in. That vintage was pretty special.”

In the last decade, Cabernet Sauvignon has risen to supremacy in Washington, now making up 44% of the state’s annual red grape production. Merlot has taken a back seat. Merfeld is sanguine about the state’s turn toward Cabernet.

“I don’t think there’s any stopping Cabernet right now,” he says, noting that Washington can do the variety particularly well.

“It’s really high quality especially for the price out of Washington State. People dig it and want it. That’s not going away, but hopefully we maintain our Merlot and have it grow.”

As I have written before, Washington becoming the land of Cabernet does not make the state’s Merlots any less compelling than they were 20 years ago. These remain world class wines. If you’re looking for a primer on what the state can do with the variety, Northstar is an excellent place to start.

“We’ve done tastings with Merlot from all over the world, and Washington stands out,” Merfeld says. “I’m not just saying that because we’re here. I’ve had some really good Merlot from Italy and from France. But they are usually pretty expensive.”

In contrast, Washington can offer exceptional quality Merlot at reasonable prices, creating wines that rank among the best in the world.

“I don’t think anybody does it better than Washington State for Merlot,” Merfeld says. “This is the spot. That’s why I’m at Northstar.”

The following article appeared in Wine Enthusiast on-line April 28, 2020. 

When people think of Washington State, they often think of ever-soggy Seattle. In fact, most of Washington’s winegrowing regions are east of the Cascade Mountain range, in arid and semi-arid desert climates.

The country’s second-largest producer of wine, Washington has 14 federally approved winegrowing regions, or appellations, with six more in review. Each has a distinct topography, soil and climate that produce unique wines.

With warm temperatures during the growing season and a relative lack of rainfall, irrigation is required in most vineyards. However, this gives growers a fine degree of control that has led to consistent quality across vintages.

Here we take you on a tour of some of Washington’s key appellations and wine regions. Also highlighted are upcoming virtual events to learn more about these region’s producers and their wines.

Read the rest of the article here.

Image by Richard Duval. 

Bud break is beginning in eastern Washington. James Mantone, owner and winemaker at  Syncline Winery, noted bud break in Gamay Noir, pictured here, at the winery's Steep Creek Ranch Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge appellation on March 27th. Mantone said this was about five to seven days earlier than in 2019.

Meanwhile Ryan Driver, vineyard manager at Tertulia Cellars, noted bud break on that same date in Syrah at the winery's Elevation Vineyard in Walla Walla Valley. Driver said bud break occurred on April 9th in 2019 and said this is the earliest bud break he has seen at the site, which was planted in 2013. This indicates the season is off to an early start.

Let the 2020 growing season begin!

Image courtesy of Syncline Winery

Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for April 2020. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read information on how I review wines here. Read about the Wine Enthusiast rating system here. Read about how to interpret my scores here. All of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide. See previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast's on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.

Well folks, hard times are upon us, but that doesn’t mean we can't still enjoy wine. It just means having to drink a little smarter, as many are forced to tighten the purse strings. Thankfully, Washington wine is your friend in this regard, offering an abundance of high quality wines wines that deliver well above their price point.

From the April set of reviews from Wine Enthusiast, I’ve singled out here 10 wines to help us all get through these tough times. They are all exceedingly well priced for the quality that’s in the bottle. As lovers of Washington wine know, there are many more like them (see the full list of April reviews below). See a list of promotions that Washington wineries are doing here.

Without further ado!

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Dry Riesling Columbia Valley $9, 91 points, Best Buy
What more can I say about the Ste Michelle Dry Riesling that I haven’t said before? This is quite simply the best wine value in the United States. Period. Better still, you can find it at your grocery store while you’re stocking up (not hoarding people!) on toilet paper. 2018 is one of the best vintages ever. Only seeing the 2017 or 2016? Don't worry. They are supremely delicious too.

Involuntary Commitment 2018 Columbia Valley $20 92 points
Well, well, well. Since the release of the first vintage, the Involuntary Commitment wines, a side project from the folks at Andrew Will, have hit way above their weight class. The 2018 vintage is something else altogether, however, drinking easily like a wine two times or more times the price. You just don’t ever see this kind of quality at this price in Washington for Bordeaux-style wines. Stock up. This early release wine also augurs well for the 2018 vintage in Washington.

Grosgrain 2018 Petit Grosgrain Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $24, 93 points, Editor’s Choice
I did a triple take when I saw the price of this wine from Grosgrain. Then I double checked it on-line. A blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Grenache from Walla Walla Valley at this quality and price? Unheard of. Far from a big bruiser, this wine is all about elegance and sophistication. But it is the balance and length that truly separates it.

Animale 2016 Stainless Steel Aged Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $26, 93 points, Editor’s Choice
This wine from Animale is one of the most exciting wines I’ve ever had from Washington – wholly fermented in stainless steel. It shows a level of purity and detail that is completely mesmerizing. Honestly, it’s changed the way that I think about Cabernet Franc in Washington, and it’s only $26.

L'Ecole No. 41 2018 Semillon Columbia Valley $15 91 points, Editor’s Choice
The L’Ecole Semillon is one of Washington’s best kept secrets. Year after year after year, it delivers. The 2018 vintage is one of the winery’s best yet, with full fruit flavors of fig and kiwi. Better still, it’s a wine that only improves with some time in the cellar, perfect for hunkering down for the days ahead.

L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Merlot Columbia Valley $25, 92 points, Editor’s Choice
This bottle from L’Ecole encapsulates everything that I love about Washington Merlot. Broad feeling and fruitful, but with more than ample acidity and firm tannic structure backing it up. It’s Washington Merlot at its best. I kept coming back to this wine over an almost two week period, and it seemed to be near immortal, perfect for now or stashing away.

Syncline 2018 Subduction Columbia Valley $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice
This wine from Gorge producer Syncline is a consistent standout, and the 2018 vintage continues that trend. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Cinsault, it has arresting aromas of blue fruit, strawberry and herb that lead to bright, focused fruit flavors. If you’re looking for a wine that puts a premium on purity and elegance, look no further.

Seven Hills Winery 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $25, 92 points, Editor's Choice
This wine was the inspiration for the 2020 Washington Merlot Challenge. 2017 is looking to be a stellar vintage for Merlot. This wine is full of aromas and flavors of raspberry, red currant, baking spice and milk chocolate, showing a sense of deftness. It delivers a whole lot of quality for this price.

Ott & Hunter 2017 Double Bluff Whidbey Island Landmark Series Columbia Valley $23 90 points
This Whidbey Island producer, renamed Ott & Hunter from Ott & Murphy, has been quietly chugging along, making high quality, well priced wines for some time. This blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Counoise, and Cinsault is full of peppery spices and light, juicy flavors that show a lot of elegance.

Reininger 2017 Mr. Owl’s Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $20 91 points
Cabernet Sauvignon from Reininger makes up over half of this wine, with the balance Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. The aromas are exuberant, with notes of orange peel, cherry, and fresh flower. A full feeling palate follows, brightened by tart acidity. Give it a decant if drinking in the near term. High quality Walla Walla wine for $20? Yes please.

Colter's Creek 2017 Estate Bottled Syrah Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $20 91 points
Bonus wine! What’s this Idaho interloper doing on this Washington wine list? Delivering some kick ass value from this cross border appellation, that’s what! Colter’s Creek is making increasingly compelling wines from this nascent appellation (see other reviews below). This offering is full of fruit forward aromas and flavors of blueberry pie and orange rind with a sumptuous feel.

Below is a full list of April Wine Enthusiast reviews. Enjoy!

* * *

Animale 2016 Stainless Steel Aged Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $26 93 points
This is the only example of this variety I am aware of from the state all aged in stainless steel. The aromas offer uncommon purity, depth and detail, with notes of strawberry, raspberry, herb, whole orange and whiffs of cranberry. The palate is layered and exquisitely balanced and has a long, orange- and cranberry-filled finish. It’s spectacular—an accomplishment. Editor's Choice

Animale 2016 Reserve Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $28 92 points
Bright, achingly pure aromas of raspberry, strawberry and cranberry are followed by palate-coating fruit flavors that show more of the same. A long, blood orange- and cranberry-filled finish follows. It’s a complete delight—one of the best offerings of this variety coming out of the state. Editor's Choice

Array 2015 Dijon Clone Chardonnay Yakima Valley $32 91 points
This winery focuses exclusively on Chardonnay. Aromas of corn on the cob, peach, lees and spice are followed by full-bodied, textured stone fruit flavors that stretch out on the clean finish. It’s a compelling example of the variety.

Array 2015 Nina’s Reserve Chardonnay Yakima Valley $36 88 points
The aromas offer notes of lees, candied red apple and spice. It’s enjoyable, but the lees flavors get pretty intense and somewhat overwhelm the wine at times.

Ashan 2017 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Gorge $40 92 points
Fruit for this wine comes from 1973 plantings. Barrel fermented and aged sur lie for nine months with weekly bâtonnage. Aromas of toast and wet stone are out front, needing some time to fully settle in. The palate is full feeling, creamy but still deft, bringing an impressive sense of acidity that carries the flavors on the extremely long finish. Give it some time to settle in. Best after 2022.

Ashan 2017 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $40 90 points
The aromas offer notes of clarified butter, lanolin, toast, flower and pear. Full-bodied, creamy-feeling peach flavors follow, capped off by a (quite) warm finish. It’s a lovely contrast to the winery’s Celilo Vineyard offering, showing the many facets of the variety.

Avennia 2017 Justine Yakima Valley $40 93 points
Grenache (61%) is in the lead on this wine, followed by Mourvèdre (23%) and Syrah. Alluring aromas of raspberry, blueberry, thistle, herb, smoked meat and black pepper are followed by lush, achingly pure red and blue fruit flavors, accented by a lovely sense of spicing. It’s deft but pure. Smoked meat and black pepper notes linger on the extremely long finish. The balance throughout is impressive—a complete stunner. Best from 2023 to 2030, with good life beyond that. Editor's Choice

Avennia 2017 Gravura Columbia Valley $40 93 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (47%) and Merlot (42%) make up the heart of this wine, with Cabernet Franc providing its soul. The aromas impress, with notes of bay leaf, thyme, graphite, dark coffee, raspberry and spice. The palate is classically styled and exquisitely balanced, bringing a sense of sophistication and detail, with plentiful cherry and herb accents. There’s lovely sense of complexity. Firm, slightly green tannins back it all up. Just a baby now, it wants some time in the bottle to grow up. Best from 2024 to 2032. Cellar Selection

Brian Carter 2018 Oriana White Wine Blend White Blend Columbia Valley $25 91 points
A unique blend of Viognier (49%), Roussanne (41%) and Riesling. The aromas are fruit-forward, with notes of ripe peach, flower and melon. The palate drinks off-dry, rounded in feel but still, light, with citrus, stone fruit and floral flavors. It has a pleasing yum factor.

Brian Carter 2013 One Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $85 90 pointsBarrel aromas are at the fore at present, with notes of vanilla, cocoa and wood spice, along with generous amounts of dried herbs, graphite and a light medicinal streak. The palate brings lighter feeling black tea flavors and cherry, painting a bit around the edges. It seems slightly more evolved than one might expect for its age.

Brian Carter 2015 Trentenaire Columbia Valley $50 90 points
This is always one of the more interesting wines in the state, a Petit Verdot (55%) dominant blend, rounded out with Cabernet Franc (19%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), Merlot (10%) and Malbec. I am not aware of another like it. Aromas of roasted coffee bean and green herb are out front, followed by notes of dark chocolate, spice, herb and cherry. Barrel flavors are forward at present, but there’s plenty behind them to pull it off. Petit Verdot’s unique acid and tannin structure carry it. It should have a long life in front of it



Brian Carter 2016 Corrida Spanish-style Red Blend Columbia Valley $34 89 points
This is a blend of 66% Tempranillo, 21% Graciano, 8% Garnacha and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon—something few producers in the state are exploring. The aromas bring a fair amount of reduction out of the gate. Behind that are notes of roasted coffee bean, cassis and licorice. Fresh tobacco, coffee and dark chocolate flavors follow. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s equal parts promise and delivery.

Brian Carter 2015 Tuttoroso Red Wine Blend Red Blend Yakima Valley $34 89 points
Sangiovese (68%) is at the heart of this wine, surrounded by Cabernet Sauvignon (17%) and Syrah. Aromas of dried tobacco, tar, raspberry, tire rubber, coffee and cherry are followed by creamy-feeling fruit flavors. The reduction on the aromas is a bit distracting.

Brian Carter 2015 Paul Thomas Bandol-style Columbia Valley $50 88 points
This wine is dedicated to one of winemaker Brian Carter’s friends and mentors. In this blend of Mourvèdre (61%), Grenache (25%), Cinsault (8%) and Syrah, sweet spice, dried herb, flower and licorice aromas make up an interesting mix. Full, lightly creamy flavors follow.

Brian Carter 2015 Solesce Columbia Valley $65 88 points
Coming from the warmest vintage this state has seen to date, this wine is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec. The aromas pop, with notes of tobacco, tire rubber, coffee and cherry, reduced out the gate. Lip-smacking, slightly dried out seeming flavors follow. It’s an odd mix and hard to tell where it’s going at present.

Carl's Pond 2013 Merlot Yakima Valley $16 89 points
With this 100% varietal, vanilla and baking spice aromas are in front of raspberry and cherry notes. The cranberry and cherry flavors are reserved in style, showing a pretty sense of balance. It’s an intriguing wine, made in a style more common in the state in the ’90s than in recent years.

Carl's Pond 2014 Rattlesnake Ruby Red Blend Rattlesnake Hills $16 88 points
This wine is 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 8% Syrah, aged 26 months in a mixture of French and American oak. The aromas provide intrigue, with notes of cinnamon, pipe tobacco, vanilla, sweet barrel spice and savory herb. The palate’s cherry flavors are reserved in style, bringing a sense of freshness, with plentiful herb accents. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best.

Carl's Pond 2014 Syrah Rattlesnake Hills $16 87 points
Aromas of vanilla, cocoa, mesquite, cola and cherry are followed by lighter-styled fruit and barrel flavors that trail toward the finish. A light medicinal note runs throughout.

Catman 2017 Sangiovese Columbia Valley (OR) $42 90 points
Pale in color, the wine has aromas offering light notes of red fruit and spice. Light, elegant, focused fruit flavors follow, bringing a vibrant sense of acidity, despite its high alcohol level. It doesn’t entirely stand up on its own but will do well on the dinner table. Pair it with roasted pork loin.

Catman 2017 Malbec Columbia Valley (OR) $32 89 points
The aromas jump out of the glass, with notes of bright raspberry, fresh red currant, orange rind, a sprinkling of savory herb and a whiff of mesquite. The palate is flavorful and juicy, chock-full of red fruit flavors, with blood orange notes on the finish. It displays a pleasing sense of elegance—an intriguing offering of this variety.

Catman 2017 Quatrèsbon Red Blend Columbia Valley (OR) $32 86 points
This wine is a unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Zinfandel. The aromas start out quite reduced, bringing strong notes of burnt tire rubber in front of red fruit. The palate is fuller in feel, with notes of fresh green herbs and red fruit.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Dry Riesling Columbia Valley $9 91 points
The aromas are perfumed, with appealing notes of flower, lime leaf, orange peel and white peach. Bone-dry, mouthwatering stone fruit flavors follow, showing spot-on balance and a lingering finish. It’s a complete delight. Best Buy

Cinder 2018 Dry Viognier Snake River Valley (ID) $23 89 points
Viognier is the variety that led winemaker Melanie Krause to move back to Idaho to make wine, and this wine shows the promise. The aromas draw you into the glass with notes of flower, herb, peach and pear. Medium-bodied, well-balanced flavors follow. It shows a lovely sense of acidity for the variety.

Cinder 2018 Dry Gewürztraminer Snake River Valley (ID) $30 88 points
Somewhat subdued aromas of flower are followed by pear and ginger notes. The palate is dry, crisp and medium bodied in feel, with tart acidity providing the frame. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery and should shine at the dinner table. Try it with roasted chicken basted in an herb butter with citrus and sage.

Cinder 2016 Reserve Tempranillo Snake River Valley (ID) $80 88 points
Aromas of cocoa, vanilla, fresh tobacco, graphite and black cherry are followed by rounded, palate-coating dark-fruit flavors with a tart finish. A firm coil of tannins connects it together.

Cinder 2017 Syrah Snake River Valley (ID) $30 87 points
Vanilla extract, sweet baking spice, dried tobacco and plum aromas are followed by tangerine, plum and dried tobacco flavors that thin out toward the finish. The wood seems to get in the way at times.

Cinder 2018 Dry Rosé Snake River Valley (ID) $23 85 points
Darker in color than many offerings coming from the Northwest, this wine shows reduction out of the gate, making the aromas of cherry and watermelon hard to tease out. Medium-bodied cherry flavors follow, tapering toward the finish.

Colter's Creek 2017 Estate Skookumchuck Syrah Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $25 91 points
Arresting aromas of fresh herbs, blueberry, smoked meat, tangerine, wet gravel and black pepper are followed by silky smooth, mesmerizing flavors, bringing an outrageous sense of texture. Orange peel notes linger on the finish. Delicious stuff.

Colter's Creek 2017 Estate Bottled Syrah Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $20 91 points
Vibrant aromas of blueberry pie, dried orange rind, cranberry and boysenberry lead to full-bodied, richly flavorful blue and purple fruit flavors. The sumptuous feel only adds to the appeal. It’s fruit-forward and unabashedly delicious.

Colter's Creek 2017 Rocinante Red Blend Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $36 90 points
A blend of Mourvèdre, Graciano and Malbec, this wine is pale in color, reminiscent of a Pinot Noir. The aromas show notes of fresh herbs, cherry, cranberry, white pepper and Satsuma orange. Light, peppery flavors follow, accented by bright acidity. It shows a lot of delicacy and should shine at the dinner table. Pair it with grilled lamb and chimichurri. Editor's Choice

Colter's Creek 2016 Arrow Rim G-S-M Idaho $20 88 points
Subdued aromas of raspberry compote, cranberry, barrel spice, dill and herbs lead to soft fruit and barrel flavors that generally play well off each other but at times tussle.

Colter's Creek 2017 Estate Cabernet Franc Lewis-Clark Valley (ID) $28 88 points
Aromas of fresh and dried tobacco are at the fore along with green, savory herbs and green pepper. The palate is light but full in feel, chock-full of savory flavors. It’s a lovely but pretty green offering of the variety.

Devona 2017 Chardonnay Washington $44 92 points
Winemaker John Abbott (formerly of Abeja) has always been one of the state’s most skilled Chardonnay makers, and we see that here. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of clarified butter, spice and almond, showing a sense of subtlety. The peach and nectarine flavors are full in feel, coating the palate from end to end, brightened by lively acidity. It lingers on the finish. Superb stuff. Editor's Choice

Devona 2015 Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $70 91 points
Devona is a new project from winemaker John Abbott, previously at Abeja, where he showed his mastery of Cabernet Sauvignon. Coming from 1972 plantings at this vineyard, the aromas start out subtle, with notes of graphite, vanilla, raspberry cordial and spice. Well-balanced, creamy-feeling coffee and cherry flavors follow, showing a sense of sophistication, particularly for such a warm vintage.

Devona 2016 Merlot Columbia Valley $50 90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Bacchus Vineyard. Aromas of Red Vines candy, cherry cordial and spice are out front. Well-balanced red fruit flavors follow, leading to a warm finish. A firm sense of structure backs it up. There’s no mistaking the variety.

Drink Washington State 2017 Welcome to Washington State Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Valley $29 89 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of corn on the cob and wet stone along with whiffs of caramel and spice. The palate is medium-plus bodied, extending on the finish.

Drink Washington State 2016 Escape to Walla Walla Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $29 87 points
The aromas are unusual, with notes of dried stem, fresh tobacco, black currant, medicine cabinet and orange peel, not seeming entirely integrated. The palate brings a mixture of full-feeling green herb and tart red fruit flavors. It comes off as quite green.

Eternal 2016 Eternal Discovery Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $59 90 points
This vineyard is making a name for itself with Cabernet. Black licorice, dark raspberry, Satsuma orange and herb aromas are out front, followed by graphite and a sprinkling of spice. A mouthful of rich red and dark fruit flavors follow. Firm but fine-grained tannins provide support. It provides a lot of intrigue and delivery.

Eternal 2018 Eternal Sunshine Viognier Columbia Valley $34 89 points
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Gamache Vineyard. The aromas offer notes of Jolly Rancher, flower and honey-drizzled peach, showing the intensity of a dessert wine. The palate is rich in flavor, showing a ripe style, tapering toward the warm finish.

Eternal 2017 Eternal Restraint Syrah Walla Walla Valley $49 88 points
Fruit for this wine hails from Bogin Vineyard and comes in at an almost unheard of alcohol level for a current day red from the state. The aromas offer unusual notes of orange peel, evergreen, smoked meat, green herb and dark fruit. As the name would imply, the palate is reserved in style, with a strong sense of acidity. Orange peel notes persist on the finish. It doesn’t all completely work, seeming quite green, but it’s certainly interesting.

Fujishin 2018 Gewurztraminer Snake River Valley (ID) $NA 88 points
Sweet herb aromas are out front, trailed by notes of whole lime and a whiff of ale. Dry, broad-feeling citrus flavors follow. Spice flavors linger on the warm finish. It brings appeal.

Gorman 2018 Big Sissy Chardonnay Columbia Valley $35 91 points
For a producer typically known for its brawny wines, this one has that but also a lovely sense of subtlety, with notes of chalk, cardamom and plentiful barrel spice. The peach flavors bring nuance with their creamy, full feel. A warm, fruit-filled finish caps it off.

Gramercy 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $95 93 points
This wine is a blend of Cabernet from Bacchus Vineyard in the White Bluffs and Phinny Hill in the Horse Heaven Hills. Forward aromas of dark coffee bean, milk chocolate, dried and fresh herbs, barrel spice and dark cherry are followed by initially light, well-balanced fruit flavors that ramp up in depth and intensity over time. A tight coil of tannins holds it all together. This one will require some patience but has all the stuffing to go the distance and then some. Best after 2025 with a long life beyond that. Cellar Selection

Gramercy 2016 John Lewis Syrah Walla Walla Valley $85 93 points
As time has gone on, this wine has gotten more and more ambitious, drawing down its alcohol to the present 12.8%. With this barrel selection from Red Willow, Forgotten Hills and Les Collines vineyards, the aromas are reserved, with notes of black pepper, dried stem, herb, lavender and smoked meat. The palate is packed full of tart fruit flavors that stretch out on the finish. Quite firm tannins back it up. Most Washington wines you can pop and pour or wait a decade to enjoy. This is an exception, requiring significant time to see its best, but it is more than worth the wait. Drink after 2027, but it will have a long life beyond that, appearing near immortal. Cellar Selection

Greenwing 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $30 91 points
This is a new Cabernet Sauvignon project from the folks at Duckhorn, doubling down on Washington to go along with their Red Mountain focused Canvasback brand. The aromas mesmerize in notes of café au lait, black currant, plum, bay leaf and spice. The palate is deft in style, full of well-balanced, creamy-feeling flavors of coffee, spice and cherry, with lightly grainy tannins backing it up. It’s a lovely mix of fruit and barrel. Editor's Choice

Grosgrain 2018 Petit Grosgrain Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $24 93 points
Mourvèdre makes up 43% of this wine, with the rest Syrah (34%) and Grenache (23%). The aromas start out high register, with notes of herb, dried flower, peppery spice and blue fruit. The palate is simultaneously flavorful and deft, with tart acidity and a long, drawn out finish. This is extremely impressive stuff, with exquisite balance and an outrageous value to boot. Editor's Choice

Grosgrain 2018 XL Vineyard Mourvèdre Walla Walla Valley (OR) $36 91 points
This is the first example of Mourvèdre I am aware of from this vineyard, with it also being an extreme rarity in the valley. Brooding aromas of raspberry, green herbs, thistle and spice are followed by reserved fruit, cranberry-tart fruit and savory flavors. A long finish caps it off. It needs to be accompanied by food to be fully appreciated, but it’s terrific. Pair it with grilled lamb with a cherry compote. Editor's Choice

Grosgrain 2018 Los Rocosos Vineyard Grenache Walla Walla Valley (OR) $36 91 points
Pale in color, this young release wine was aged in neutral oak with 15% stems. The aromas offer notes of strawberry, raspberry and dried herb. The flavors are light, elegant, fresh, juicy and focused. Strawberry and smoked meat flavors linger on the finish. It’s a lovely, graceful wine, made it a style few (any?) producers in the state are exploring. It shows impressive staying power as well. Best with a slight chill. Editor's Choice

Hat Ranch 2018 Dry Estate Grown Moscato Snake River Valley (ID) $18 90 points
Vibrant aromas of melon, flower, tangerine peel and pear lead to dry drinking flavors. It’s a one-wine charm offensive.

Hat Ranch 2016 Hat Trick Red Blend Snake River Valley (ID) $27 88 points
Aromas of red cherry, vanilla and wood spice are followed by fruit and barrel flavors on the lighter side of medium-bodied wine. Coffee notes linger on the finish. The oak gets out front at times.

Helix by Reininger 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sangiovese Columbia Valley $27 88 points
Bright, fresh aromas of raspberry, sour cherry and orange peel are at the fore. The palate brings a pleasing sense of elegance, with the tannins adding some grit. Give it some additional time in the bottle to see if they soften.

Helix by Reininger 2016 Bacchus Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley $22 88 points
Bacchus is one of the state’s oldest vineyards, located in the White Bluffs region. The aromas bring notes of coffee and raspberry, with plentiful spice accents. The palate comes off as a bit green, dipping in the middle, with a lot of tannic structure. Coffee notes persist on the finish.

Involuntary Commitment 2018 Columbia Valley $20 92 points
This side project from the folks at Andrew Will is consistently one of the best values in the state. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with coffee, cherry and savory herb aromas out front. The palate brings a sense of balance, intensity, depth, purity and sophistication.

J. Bookwalter 2019 Couse Creek Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir Walla Walla Valley $26 92 points
This wine is made in a Beaujolais Nouveau style—100% whole cluster with cool carbonic maceration, aged two weeks on skins, and released the Thursday before Thanksgiving. However, it brings a whole lot more seriousness and staying power than many of the wines that inspired it. The aromas pop, with appealing notes of strawberry, dried herbs and stem. The palate is light, fresh and juicy, fleshing out over time. It’s a complete delight, and a dynamite example of this variety to boot. Editor's Choice

L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Ferguson Estate Vineyard Walla Walla Valley $65 92 points
Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (28%) comprise the majority of this wine, with Cabernet Franc (7%) and Malbec rounding it out. Aromas of dried leaf, savory herb, dark chocolate, cassis and dried thyme draw you into the glass. The palate shows a sense of polish to the classically styled cranberry and cherry flavors. Lively acidity and brawny, slightly green tannins back it all up. Oak spices linger on the finish. It has the acidity and tannin stuffing to go the distance and then some. Best after 2025 with a long life beyond that. Cellar Selection

L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Merlot Columbia Valley $25 92 points
The baking spice, dark raspberry and anise aromas provide appeal. Broad-feeling, textured flavors follow, with cranberry-tart acidity and brawny, firm tannins backing it up. It’s an extremely impressive offering of this variety, showing its more serious side—Washington Merlot at its best. It will shine at the dinner table and will have a long life in front of it, seemingly near immortal. Editor's Choice

L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Estate Grown Merlot-Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $39 92 points
This wine is equal parts Ferguson and Seven Hills Vineyards and is similarly split between these two varieties. The aromas are locked up at present, with notes of graphite, cedar, barrel spice, coffee, dried herb, cherry, cranberry and anise coming out with coaxing. Plump, ripe fruit flavors follow, accented by vibrant acidity and enough tannic structure to go the distance. It flat out impresses. Best 2023–2033. Cellar Selection

L'Ecole No. 41 2018 Semillon Columbia Valley $15 91 points
Generous aromas of fig, kiwi and freshly spun cotton lead to a full, flavorful palate that brings a sense of texture and richness. It stretches out on the long, warm finish. Editor's Choice

L'Ecole No. 41 2017 Estate Grown Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $37 88 points
Coffee, green herbs, vanilla and blue fruit lead to full-bodied flavors, with the tannins giving a slightly tacky feel. The oak comes off prominently at present. Give it some time to (hopefully?) integrate. Best after 2022.

Laissez Faire 2018 Red Blend Snake River Valley (ID) $18 89 points
This young release red offers plum, orange peel, currant and spice aromas. A plump, flavorful, elegant palate follows. It’s a wine that makes you want to come back for more.

Mark Ryan 2018 Viognier Yakima Valley $40 93 points
The aromas bring plenty of appeal, with notes of honeysuckle, flower, whole pear, crushed rock and peach, bringing a sense of nuance. The palate is full but crisp in feel, showing a lovely sense of tension and depth, along with lively acidity. Structure, balance, depth, intensity, dexterity. Editor's Choice

Mark Ryan 2017 Crazy Mary Mourvèdre Red Mountain $60 93 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of dark coffee, pure blue fruit, dried herb and a kiss of spice. Full-feeling, palate-coating blue fruit flavors follow, lingering on the long, smoked meat and peppery finish. It commands attention, showing a lovely sense of texture and purity. Editor's Choice

Mark Ryan 2017 Little Sister Merlot Columbia Valley $75 93 points
Fruit from Quintessence Vineyard on Red Mountain makes up 86% of this wine, with the rest coming from the considerably cooler Red Willow in Yakima Valley. With this 100% varietal, the aromas start out brooding, with notes of Red Vines candy, dark raspberry, herb and dark chocolate. Bright, vibrant, palate-coating, textured red fruit and barrel flavors follow. It shows a lovely sense of depth and intensity but still freshness, with a lingering finish capping it off. Best after 2023. Cellar Selection

Mark Ryan 2016 Lost Soul Red Willow Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $50 92 points
The aromas jump out of the glass, with notes of coffee, blue fruit, dried herb, mineral and dark chocolate. Soft, textured, palate-coating fruit flavors follow that sail on the finish. A lovely sense of acidity ups the interest. This wine could only come from one place. It’s completely captivating. Editor's Choice

Mark Ryan 2017 The Dissident Columbia Valley $40 92 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up almost two-thirds of this wine and Merlot a quarter, with the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The aromas offer notes of dark and red raspberry, red currant, roasted coffee bean, dried herb and flower. Fruit and barrel flavors coat the palate, showing a sense of depth, with a creamy feel upping the interest. Editor's Choice

Mark Ryan 2017 Dead Horse Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $60 92 points
Quintessence, Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun and Obselisco fruit make up this wine. Aromas of vanilla, black coffee, dried herb, graphite, plum and dark cherry lead to a full, creamy-feeling, flavorful palate, intertwining fruit and barrel flavors. Coffee notes linger on the warm finish. A firm coil of slightly green tannins gives it support. Allow it some additional time in bottle. Best after 2023.

Mark Ryan 2017 Long Haul Merlot Columbia Valley $55 92 points
Though always Merlot dominant (and 84% in this vintage), this wine has not carried a varietal label in some time. A blend of Quintessence, Red Willow, Ciel du Cheval and Phinny Hill fruit, with brooding raspberry, coffee bean, cigar box, crème de cassis and herb notes out front. The palate mixes fruit and barrel, showing a lovely sense of deftness to the creamy-feeling flavors. Firm structure backs it all up, with café au lait notes lingering on the finish. It shows why this variety is so special in Washington. Editor's Choice

Mark Ryan 2018 Olsen Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley $40 90 points
There’s a lovely vibrancy to this wine’s pear, flower and peach aromas. Ripe, almost viscous-feeling flavors follow. Toast notes linger on the warm finish. It shows the variety’s richer, more unctuous side.

Mark Ryan 2017 Wild Eyed Syrah Red Mountain $50 89 points
There’s no mistaking the variety, with its aromas of pot roast sprinkled with dried herbs, blue fruit and flower showing a pleasing sense of complexity. The palate is full bodied but remains deft, with a textured feel and a firm sense to the tannins. A medicinal streak runs throughout, and it finishes quite warm.

Mercer 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $25 88 points
Green herb, smoke, cherry, spice and whole lemon aromas lead to slightly tacky-feeling cherry, black currant and orange peel flavors. It comes off as quite green.

Mercer 2016 Small Lot Merlot Horse Heaven Hills $32 88 points
Aged 24 months in 40% new American oak; the aromas offer notes of vanilla, dried cherry and sweet barrel spice. Vanilla, nougat and cherry flavors follow on the palate. The oak plays a leading role.

Mercer 2017 Bros Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $20 87 points
This wine explores the variety’s greener, more savory side, with notes of green pepper and garden herb, along with black currant and whiffs of smoke. The palate is sweet, with the tannins seeming a bit bunched up. Café au lait notes linger on the finish. It’s an easy drinker.

Mercer 2017 Reserve Heritage Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $25 87 points
Aromas of mesquite smoke and smoked ham are out front, along with fresh black currant and barrel spice, with the palate showing more of the same. A strong medicinal note lingers on the finish.

Ott & Hunter 2016 Saratoga Whidbey Island Landmark Series Columbia Valley $35 91 points
Syrah comprises half of this wine, with the rest Mourvèdre (30%) and Grenache. With the fruit coming from Boushey, Elephant Mountain and Sugarloaf vineyards, the aromas seem a bit bunched up out of the gate, expanding to show notes of blueberry, freshly ground black pepper and spice. A full but not overweighted feeling plate follows, with abundant black pepper accents. It has a lovely sense of grace. Give it some time open to see it at its best.

Ott & Hunter 2017 Double Bluff Whidbey Island Landmark Series Columbia Valley $23 90 points
Grenache, Mourvèdre, Counoise and Cinsault all make up equal parts of this wine. It’s light in color, reminiscent of a cool climate Pinot Noir. The aromas provide notes of strawberry and cherry gummy, along with pine and peppery spice. The palate is light and juicy, extending on the finish. It’s a pretty, elegant offering.

Ott & Hunter 2015 L’Entente Red Blend Columbia Valley $43 88 points
This is a unique blend of three-quarters Syrah, 20% Petite Sirah and 5% Malbec. The aromas intrigue, with notes of smoked meat, evergreen, parsley and purple fruit. The palate is light, with a strong medicinal streak. It’s all an odd mix.

Ott & Hunter 2016 Boushey Vineyard Malbec Yakima Valley $36 88 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of flower, orange oil, evergreen and asphalt. A medium-bodied palate follows, full of somewhat lighter orange peel flavors. Grapefruit notes linger on the finish. It’s interesting, but the fruit doesn’t seem to have fully ripened.

Ott & Hunter 2015 Sugarloaf Vineyard Grenache Rattlesnake Hills $27 88 points
Aged in neutral French oak for 32 months, aromas of cigar box, herb and ripe raspberry are followed by ripe, full-bodied cranberry and cherry flavors. It finishes warm. The aromas and flavors don’t seem to entirely sync up.

Ott & Hunter 2016 Wooly Heart of the Hill Vineyard Petite Sirah Red Mountain $45 88 points
In this 100% varietal, aromas of raspberry compote, evergreen and cherry cough drop are followed by fruit flavors on the lighter side of medium bodied. It comes up short on the finish.

Ott & Hunter 2016 Boushey Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $35 88 points
The aromas offer notes of overripe blueberry, blackberry and spice. Jammy, ripe but still lighter-styled flavors follow. This oft-expressive vineyard seems to get lost.

Ott & Hunter 2016 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Syrah Rattlesnake Hills $35 87 points
This wine was aged 32 months in a second-fill French oak barrel. The aromas bring notes of dark fruit, vanilla and abundant barrel spices. The palate mixes fruit and barrel, with the latter winning out.

Reininger 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $30 91 points
Pepper Bridge (64%) and Seven Hills (32%) vineyards make up most of this wine, with the rest coming from XL. It starts out quite reduced. Coffee and raspberry aromas are out front, followed by notes of graphite and spice. The palate is dominated by structure right now, very tightly wound up, but there are a lot of good things poking out. Coffee and chocolate notes linger on the finish. Give it until 2024. Cellar Selection

Reininger 2017 Mr. Owl’s Red Blend Walla Walla Valley $20 91 points
Cabernet Sauvignon comprises 56% of this wine, with the rest Merlot (19%), Syrah (19%) and Petit Verdot. The aromas are effusive, with notes of orange peel, fresh flower, cranberry and cherry. A full-feeling palate follows, with the cherry flavors brightened by tart acidity and supported by firm tannins. Coffee notes linger on the finish. The sense of structure is lovely. Best after 2024.

Reininger 2017 BDX Walla Walla Valley $30 88 points
The aromas are locked up out of the gate, with notes of wood spice, cranberry, cherry and mint. Fruit and barrel seem to tussle on the palate, with the tannins bringing a bit of astringency. Perhaps some additional time in the bottle will bring it together.

Reininger 2017 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $40 88 points
This wine is 100% varietal. The aromas bring notes of fresh black currant, asphalt, smoke and barrel spice. A plush feeling, dark fruit-filled palate follows, showing a bit of astringency. Smoke notes linger on the finish.

Sawtooth 2018 Dry Classic Fly Series Riesling Snake River Valley (ID) $18 87 points
The aromas offer notes of lemon iced tea, wilted flower and peach. Dry fruit flavors follow, trailing toward the lemony, lip-smacking finish.

Sawtooth 2017 Classic Fly Series Petit Verdot Snake River Valley (ID) $35 85 points
Unusual aromas of pink grapefruit and wood spice are followed by light, citrusy flavors. The fruit doesn’t seem to have fully ripened.

Seven Hills Winery 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $25 92 points
The aromas provide appeal, with notes of pure raspberry, red currant, baking spice and milk chocolate. The medium-bodied palate shows a sense of deftness to the fruit and barrel flavors. It’s a terrific example of the variety. Editor's Choice

Sin Banderas 2017 Yakima Valley $32 91 points
Syrah makes up two-thirds of this wine, with the rest Mourvèdre. The aromas intrigue, with notes of herb, orange oil, anise, dark chocolate and cherry. A full, lightly creamy-feeling palate follows. Cranberry notes linger on the finish. It has a long life in front of it.

Sin Banderas 2018 DuBrul Vineyard Riesling Yakima Valley $24 91 points
Lighter-styled aromas of lime, cut green apple, mineral and citrus are followed by sleek, bone-dry stone fruit flavors that bring puckering acidity. The vibrant acidity keeps the interest high. Pair it with halibut accompanied by a nectarine and peach salsa. Editor's Choice

Sin Banderas 2016 Yakima Valley $32 90 points
Syrah and Mourvèdre make up equal parts of this wine. The aromas offer notes of coffee, dark chocolate, herb, cranberry and ample barrel spicing. The palate is creamy in feel, with coffee, raspberry and cherry. Barrel spices linger on the finish. The oak plays prominently, but by and large it works. It has a long life in front of it.

Syncline 2018 Estate Grown Gamay Columbia Gorge $35 91 points
This is the first release of this variety off the winery’s estate vineyard and a rare offering from the state. The aromas provide vibrant notes of raspberry, Red Vines candy, peppery spice, red gummy and strawberry. The palate is light, tart and elegant, with the achingly pure fruit front and center. It’s flat-out delicious—required reading for anyone interested in one of the cutting edges of Washington wine. Editor's Choice

Syncline 2018 Subduction Columbia Valley $25 91 points
Syrah makes up half of this wine, with the rest Grenache (18%) and near equal parts Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault. The aromas are arresting, with notes of blue fruit, smoked meat, strawberry and dried herb, showing pleasing complexity. The palate starts out quite elegant in style, fleshing out with time, juicy, with bright, focused, pure fruit flavors. A long, fruit-filled finish caps it off. There’s a lot going on. Pair it with roasted pork loin. Editor's Choice

Syncline 2017 Scintillation Brut Grüner Veltliner Columbia Gorge $40 90 points
This is a single-vineyard (Underwood Mountain), single-vintage, single-varietal sparkler—a unicorn in the wine world. The aromas pop, with notes of pear, citrus, biscuit, melon rind and a whiff of smoke. The palate is dry with a zip of acidity and plentiful autolytic accents. Tasty stuff. Editor's Choice

The Guide 2018 Pinot Noir Oregon $15 90 points
Aromas of cinnamon, peppermint, spice, smoke, cherry and celery salt intrigue. The palate is light, elegant and well-balanced, fleshing out over time, with a light lick of tannins. Blood orange notes linger on the finish. It brings a lot of appeal. Best Buy

The Guide 2017 Discovery Red Blend Columbia Valley $14 88 points
Plum, herb, blood orange and smoke aromas are followed by light, soft, medium-bodied blue fruit flavors that go down easy. It’s a straightforward quaffer.

The Guide 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $15 87 points
The aromas show notes of garden herb, orange peel, mesquite and raspberry, with the palate showing more of the same, accented by a touch of sweetness. A citrus twist flavor lingers on the finish.

Vale 2018 Chardonnay Snake River Valley (ID) $21 86 points
Aromas of burnt toast, peach and pear are followed by corn on the cob and peach flavors. It’s an odd mix.

Vizcaya 2014 Tempranillo Snake River Valley (ID) $29 89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Windy Ridge Estate. The aromas bring notes of dried cherry, cedar, tobacco, vanilla and herb. The flavors are full in feel, backed by lively acidity. It brings a lot of intrigue.

Woodward Canyon 2017 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $99 92 points
As always, this wine is a blend of fruit from Champoux and Sagemoor vineyards, both first planted in the early 1970s. The aromas are reserved, with notes of blackberry, vanilla, spice and cigar box not yet ready to reveal themselves. Full, palate-coating, layered flavors follow, showing a lot of intensity. It packs a big punch, with a warm finish following. It’s all about opulence but keeps it in balance.

Woodward Canyon 2016 Estate Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $69 91 points
The fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s estate vineyard, established in 1976, with a microscopic 64 cases produced. The aromas provide immediate appeal, with notes of assorted fresh and dried herbs, cassis, vanilla, green pepper and black currant. The palate brings rich toffee, vanilla and cherry flavors that add a lightly grainy feel. The oak is primary at present, needing time to integrate.

Washington’s grape production was down dramatically in 2019, with the state crushing 201,000 grapes – a 23% decrease from the prior year – according to numbers released Thursday by the Washington State Wine Commission. The cause of the decrease was a series of frost and freeze events in the second week of October that brought the growing season to an end at most locations.

Despite the substantially smaller crop, most growers and winemakers I’ve spoken with were excited about the quality of the fruit that they picked, particularly for grapes picked prior to the frosts.

“I think the overall quality of the vintage is really, really strong,” Trey Busch, co-owner and winemaker at Sleight of Hand Cellars, told me last December. “We’re high on pretty much everything.”

When the frosts occurred, a large percentage of the state’s crop was still hanging, particularly late ripening varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling. As a result, Cabernet Sauvignon, the state’s most produced grape variety, was down 28% from the prior year. Riesling saw a decrease of a whopping 39%.

While some fruit was subsequently harvested after the frosts, tens of thousands of tons were ultimately left unpicked, particularly at larger production sites which were hanging higher tons per acre. In contrast, for many smaller producers, much of their fruit was already in the door or was ready to be.

“If I were to lay the acid, sugar, and pH numbers in front of you, maybe we would have let it sit for a few extra days, but essentially it was 99% there,” Marty Clubb, co-owner and managing winemaker at L’Ecole No. 41, told me regarding the frosts in my annual harvest report.

Tonnage was down in 2019 from the previous year for every reported variety, with the exception of Pinot Noir, which increased from 1,100 to 1,775 tons, and Grenache, which increased modestly from 1,400 tons to 1,450.

Due to decreased availability, per ton prices increased in 2019, with Cabernet Sauvignon going from an average of $1,505/ton in 2018 to $1,702. Sauvignon Blanc increased from $932/ton to $1,067.

For every grape variety listed in the annual report, prices were up, with the exceptions of Pinot Noir and Chenin Blanc. The former was due to its relative abundance in 2019. The latter was due to an inflated price for Chenin in 2018. Overall, the price for Chenin Blanc in 2019 still exceeded its five year average. On the whole, prices increased $102/ton in 2019. Petit Verdot was the state’s most expensive variety, at $1,876/ton (see the 2019 report here).

Given the increased demand, some producers tried to be opportunistic.

“We picked up close to 750 tons on the spot market because it was there,” said Kendall Mix, winemaker at Milbrandt Vineyards and Wahluke Wine Company, the latter a custom crush facility.

This was Washington’s first statewide frost since 2009, with both frosts occurring on the exact same date. Tonnage numbers, however, were not substantially affected that year, perhaps due to the warmth of that vintage, fewer acres planted, and other factors.

Graphic courtesy of Washington State Wine

Below are my Wine Enthusiast reviews for March 2020. Wines are listed alphabetically by winery. Read information on how I review wines here. Read about the Wine Enthusiast rating system here. Read about how to interpret my scores here. All of these reviews are freely available on-line at the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide. See previous Wine Enthusiast reviews re-published in this space here. Search Wine Enthusiast's on-line database here. Read instructions on how to find Washington wine reviews at Wine Enthusiast here.
House of Bones is a new project by Sean Boyd (owner and winemaker, (Rôtie Cellars) and Kevin Masterman (winemaker, Rotie Cellars). Boyd has shown a skilled touch with white wines. Masterman, meanwhile, has worked at Ramey, Abeja, and Corliss before joining the team at Rôtie. Those are some heavy hitting Chardonnay houses (Corliss from the Tranche label).

The 2017 House of Bones Chardonnay comes from Celilo Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge: one of the strongest white wine vintages of the last two decades from what many would say is the state’s top site for the variety. It was barrel fermented and had approximately 40% malolactic conversion. Spice, Meyer lemon and mineral aromas are out front, leading to a textured, full palate with exquisite depth, layering, and intensity. It is quite simply the best example of this variety I have had from Washington during my time at Wine Enthusiast (House of Bones 2017 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay Washington $45, 94 points, Editor’s Choice). It’s well worth seeking out and is sold from the Rôtie tasting room.

Avennia’s new Lydian wines offer superb value (Avennia 2017 Lydian Merlot Columbia Valley $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Avennia 2017 Lydian Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25, 90 points). Meanwhile the winery’s 2016 Red Willow Cabernet is a wine for the ages, seeming near immortal when I tried it (Avennia 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $95, 94 points, Cellar Selection).

The new releases from Buty include a lot of high quality wines, none more so than the winery’s 2018 60% Sémillon 21% Sauvignon 19% Muscadelle Columbia Valley ($25, 93 points, Cellar Selection). This is a unique wine for Washington. Most white Bordeaux-style blends are Sauvignon Blanc heavy. This one focuses on Semillon with a heavy compliment of Muscadelle. The latter is a variety few in Washington are working with but is always a distinctive addition to this wine. This wine is delicious now, but will have a long life ahead of it in the cellar. Meanwhile the latest from Buty’s Beast lineup offers screaming value (Beast 2017 Red Blend Columbia Valley $19, 91 points, Editor’s Choice).

When wineries in Washington first started offering Gruner Veltliner, count me as among the skeptics given our ever-warm, desert climate. A decade plus later, I stand corrected, as evidenced by wines such as this offering from Chateau Ste Michelle (Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Limited Release Grüner Veltliner Columbia Valley $26, 92 points, Editor’s Choice). If you are a fan of high acid whites, seek this one out. It’s delightful.

I’ve written a number of times previously about the strength of the Rhône-style wines coming off the Royal Slope. Gård Vintners is at the very center of this, with the Lawrence family having extensive plantings in this soon-to-be-approved appellation (Gård 2016 Thunderstone Lawrence Estate Wines Syrah Columbia Valley $45, 94 points, Editor’s Choice; Gård 2016 Vaucluse Lawrence Estate Columbia Valley $40, 92 points, Editor’s Choice). But it’s not just superb Rhone-style varieties coming out of this region. There are also high quality Cabernets and Chardonnay (Gård 2016 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40, 91 points; Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley $28, 90 points, Editor’s Choice). If you’re not familiar with this winery and its wines, I strongly encourage you to check them out.

Looking for a high quality, extremely well-priced wine to get you through these tough times? Look no further than the Kerloo Cellars Majestic (Kerloo 2017 Majestic Columbia Valley $26, 91 points, Editor’s Choice). A blend of 63% Grenache, 27% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah, it offers loads of strawberry gummy, white pepper and dried herb aromas and flavors.

In other wines that provide superb value, let’s take a look at the latest from Luke (Luke 2017 Merlot Wahluke Slope $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Luke 2017 Red Blend Wahluke Slope $25, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Luke 2017 Syrah Wahluke Slope $25, 91 points; Luke 2018 Chardonnay Ancient Lakes $22, 90 points; Luke 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $25, 90 points). Luke is the brainchild of Thomas Voegle, who has decades of experience in the wine industry. Peter Devison (Devison Vintners) is the winemaker.

I’m hoping to devote a more substantial writeup to the wines coming out of Walla Walla Valley’s Prospice, but let me give a Cliff Notes version here. Prospice is one of the most exciting new wineries to come along in Washington in recent years, with a clear sense of vision and perspective on the wines that they make. Their current releases are some of the strongest I have tasted from a winery this last year Prospice 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $50, 93 points, Cellar Selection; Prospice 2017 Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills $50, 93 points, Cellar Selection; Prospice 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $50, 93 points, Cellar Selection).

Tertulia Cellars is one of the wineries on the cutting edge of what’s happening in the Walla Walla Valley. Their Elevation Vineyard is located in the North Fork region of the valley, with Christophe Baron’s Hors Categorie Vineyard currently their closest neighbor). Elevation ranges from 1,500-1,700 feet about sea level, high by Columbia Valley standards (NB: This vineyard is actually on the Oregon side of the valley), with most of the vines on a terraced slope. It is one of the most picturesque areas of the Columbia Valley and is also creating distinctive wines, that show a compelling sense of elegance and subtlety (Tertulia 2017 Elevation Estate Vineyard Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $45, 91 points; Tierra Labrada 2017 Elevation Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $95, 90 points; Tierra Labrada 2017 Elevation Vineyard Petit Verdot Walla Walla Valley $85, 90 points).

On the value side, check out the Disruption Wine Company Riesling (Disruption 2017 Riesling Ancient Lakes $13, 91 points, Best Buy). It’s full of honeysuckle, lemon, and lime aromas and flavors with a zing of acidity.

Also make sure to check out the wines from Kind Stranger, a side project from Andrew Latta (Latta Wines, Disruption). These include Kind Stranger 2018 Rosé Columbia Valley ($17, 91 points, Editor’s Choice; Kind Stranger 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $17, 91 points; Kind Stranger 2017 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $17, 90 points, Editor’s Choice).

Without further ado.

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Avennia 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $95 94 points
This wine is all Cabernet, coming from a single block at this esteemed vineyard. The aromas are locked up on first pour, with notes of cocoa, dried leaf, dark roasted coffee bean and spice emerging over time. The palate is soft and flavorful, showing an exquisite sense of balance and detail to its dark chocolate and earth flavors. Tightly wound tannins give support. The acid and tannin balance is spot on. Hold until 2025 and drink through 2035. Cellar Selection

Avennia 2017 Lydian Merlot Columbia Valley $25 91 points
Lydian is a side project from the people at Avennia, blending declassified fruit with wine from other sources. High-toned aromas of dried and fresh herbs, ripe red raspberry, sandalwood and cherry are followed by a full-flavored palate. A lovely sense of acidity and tannin structure connects it all. Editor's Choice

Avennia 2017 Lydian Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25 90 points
Brooding aromas of barrel spice, black currant, black licorice and dried herbs are followed by slightly jammy fruit flavors. Firm tannic structure backs it up. It needs some time to settle in. Decant if opening in the near term.

Beast 2017 Red Blend Columbia Valley $19 91 points
Fruit-forward aromas of blueberry, raspberry, orange peel and herbs with whiffs of mesquite are followed by a flavorful palate, packed full of fruit. Citrus notes and a warm finish cap it off. It’s a lot of wine for the money, with a long life ahead of it. What more could one want? Editor's Choice

Beast 2017 Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $42 91 pointsPhinny Hill has quickly established itself as one of the top Cabernet Sauvignon sites in the state. Flower aromas are out front, along with notes of dark chocolate, anise and black cherry. Supple, flavorful cherry notes follow. Despite the ripeness of the fruit, there’s a lovely sense of acidity that backs it up. It’s delicious.

Boomtown 2018 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley $19 90 points
Effusive aromas of melon, Vaseline, kiwi and whole pineapple lead to full-bodied, well-balanced, broad-feeling flavors. It’s a cornucopia of fruit, while never getting overweighted. Editor's Choice

Buty 2018 60% Sémillon 21% Sauvignon 19% Muscadelle Columbia Valley $25 93 points
Most Bordeaux-style white wines from Washington are Sauvignon Blanc heavy. This one flips the script, along with a heavy dose of Muscadelle that a few wineries in the state are working with. The aromas bring immediate appeal, with notes of whole orange, fig, herb and lees. A full-feeling, textured, flavorful palate follows, redolent with fig flavors. A lingering finish caps it off. It’s glorious with a long life ahead of it. Hard to keep your hands off now but will be best after 2023. Cellar Selection

Buty 2016 Rediviva of the Stones Rockgarden Estate Walla Walla Valley $60 92 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of black olive brine, stem, flower, orange peel, peat, firepit and smoked meat. A lithe, savory palate follows, with generous orange peel accents. A long finish caps it off. Gorgeous stuff.

Buty 2016 Columbia Rediviva Phinny Hill Vineyard Red Blend Columbia Valley $50 92 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 79% of this wine, with Syrah filling it out. The aromas intrigue, with notes of herbs, anise, earth and black cherry. Ripe, tightly wound black cherry flavors follow. Considerably riper in style than the norm for this producer, the palate packs a big punch while keeping it all in balance.

Buty 2018 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $42 92 points
The aromas intrigue, with notes of chamomile, clarified butter, crayon and peach. The palate is deft in feel, full of stone fruit flavors that linger on the finish.

Buty 2017 Columbia Rediviva Phinny Hill Vineyard Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $50 90 points
Aromas of black cherry, bramble, crushed flowers, barrel spice and dried herbs provide appeal. The herb and cherry flavors are full in feel but never seem overweighted, with a silky softness to the tannins.

Buty 2017 74% Merlot 26% Cabernet Franc Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley $45 87 points
Freshly mortared green herb aromas dominate, followed by cassis, licorice and orange. Light fruit flavors follow, tapering toward the finish. The concentration seems quite light.



Cascadian Outfitters NV Estate Sparkling White Blend Columbia Valley $5 87 points
Apple, crayon, pear and lemon pith aromas are followed by lightly sweet, spritzy flavors. It’s an enjoyable quaffer, and the price is right.

Cascadian Outfitters NV Estate Sparkling Rosé Columbia Valley $5 87 points
Light cherry aromas are followed by spritzy, full-feeling, lightly sweet flavors. It has a nice sense of frivolity.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Limited Release Grüner Veltliner Columbia Valley $26 92 points
Lime, lentil, herb, citrus zest and jasmine aromas are out front. Bone-dry flavors with a big blast of acid follow. It needs some food alongside it to be fully appreciated, as Grüner should be. Pair it with shrimp ceviche. Editor's Choice

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2017 Merlot Columbia Valley $15 88 points
Fragrant aromas of fresh herb, flower, raspberry, cocoa and wood spice are followed by orange peel, raspberry and spice flavors. A firm sense of tannic structure backs it up.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2017 Canoe Ridge Estate Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills $20 88 points
The aromas offer notes of baked apple, crayon, vanilla, pineapple and spice. Compact fruit and barrel flavors follow. The style gets a bit in front of the fruit, but there’s still enjoyment to be had.

Columbia Crest 2016 Grand Estates Merlot Columbia Valley $12 86 points
Vanilla and nougat aromas are out front, along with notes of green wood, with the palate showing more of the same. The oak completely takes over, with the variety nearly impossible to find.

Disruption 2017 Riesling Ancient Lakes $13 91 points
Green apple skin, honeysuckle, ripe pear and jasmine aromas mesmerize. The just off-dry palate brings vibrant acidity to its lime and lemon flavors. It’s absolutely delicious and will shine at the dinner table. Best Buy

Dusted Valley 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $45 91 points
Aromas of cedar, tobacco, anise, fresh herbs, cherry and dried thyme are followed by plush tar and cherry flavors that bring a pleasing sense of intensity. Tasty stuff.

Dusted Valley 2017 Tall Tales Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
The aromas announce themselves, with notes of Satsuma orange, prosciutto, black and green olives and firepit. Soft, almost creamy-feeling olive and moist earth flavors follow. There’s no mistaking where the wine comes from.



Dusted Valley 2016 Malbec Columbia Valley $45 90 points
Dried herb, coffee, graphite, tomato leaf, sweet barrel spice and cherry aromas lead to fruit and barrel flavors that display a sense of elegance, with the tannins giving a squeeze. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s tasty, though the variety seems hard to find. Give the tannins some time to settle in.

Dusted Valley 2016 BFM Dionysus Vineyard Columbia Valley $55 90 points
Merlot (82%) takes the lead on this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (14%) and pinches of Petit Verdot and Malbec. The aromas offer notes of green pepper, dried and fresh herbs, vanilla, tobacco and anise. Full, rich coffee and cherry flavors follow, packing a big punch. Might be a bit too green for some tastes. Give it some additional time in bottle to see it at its best.

Dusted Valley 2017 Wallywood Stone Tree Vineyard Wahluke Slope $45 88 points
This wine is 70% Mourvèdre, 25% Syrah and 5% Petite Syrah. Intriguing aromas of raspberry, black licorice, cola and hard candy are followed by full-bodied fruit flavors that lead to a (quite) warm, slightly smoky finish. The tannins give a squeeze.

Elephant Seven 2017 Yellow Bird Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $37 91 points
The aromas and flavors are effusive, with notes of flowers, coffee, orange peel, smoked ham, spice and plum. A lively sense of acidity bolsters it all. The tannins are a bit clenched at present, but it has great stuffing. Give it additional time in the bottle or a short decant to see it shine. Editor's Choice

Fletcher Bay 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $53 88 points
Coming from Red Path Vineyard, the wine features aromas of dried cherry, cranberry, green pepper and baking spice, leading to full-bodied cherry and cranberry flavors. A firm coil of tannins provides support, along with a tart lick of acidity. Coffee and vanilla notes linger on the finish.

Fletcher Bay 2017 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $48 87 points
Unusual aromas of green herb, char, rosemary and coffee lead to full bodied, slightly port like fruit flavors. Black pepper accents run throughout. It’s an odd mix, seeming both overripe and underripe.

Gård 2016 Thunderstone Lawrence Estate Wines Syrah Columbia Valley $45 94 points
This vineyard is quickly establishing itself as one of the state’s top sites for Syrah, with this wine just a further example. The aromas pop, with notes of wet stone, smoked meat, firepit, fresh green herbs and Kalamata olive, very much reminiscent of the Rocks District. The palate is intensely flavorful, packed full of fruit and savory notes. The finish carries. It’s a wow wine. Editor's Choice

Gård 2016 Vaucluse Lawrence Estate Columbia Valley $40 92 points
The aromas are compelling, with notes of sea salt, moist earth after a rain, prosciutto and smoke. The savory flavors coat the palate, lingering on the finish. Impressive stuff. Editor's Choice

Gård 2016 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40 91 points
Fermented in concrete and stainless steel before being aged 26 months in 63% new French oak, this wine has aromas of vanilla and Mounds bar out front, followed by notes of baking spice, dark-roasted coffee bean, cherry and herbs. Full-bodied fruit and barrel flavors follow, with vanilla notes lingering on the finish. Fruit and barrel play equal parts in the show.

Gård 2018 Grand Klasse Lawrence Estate Wines Rosé Columbia Valley $22 91 points
The aromas offer notes of strawberry, sour cherry and herbs. The palate is full bodied, redolent of kiwi and strawberry flavors leading to a finish that has plenty of hang time. It displays an impressive sense of depth and balance. For those looking for a fuller style rosé that is very much a serious wine, this one’s for you. Editor's Choice

Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley $28 90 points
The aromas provide appeal, with notes of crayon, pumpkin spice and peach. The palate is well balanced, showing a sense of detail and deftness. Editor's Choice

Hard Row To Hoe 2018 Au Naturel Pet-Nat Rosé Lake Chelan $38 90 points
This pretty, pink sparkler offers aromas of strawberry and herbs. Fresh and frothy with a bone-dry palate, it provides plenty of appeal—an impressive offering.

House of Bones 2017 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay Washington $45 94 points
Aromas of spice, Meyer lemon and mineral are out front. The palate is textured and full, with lemony acidity. Depth, layering, intensity and exquisite balance. It has it all and sings of this vineyard. It’s an accomplishment of a wine. Editor's Choice

Joleté 2017 Wallula Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $45 87 points
The aromas fascinate, with notes of savory herbs, braised green pepper, roasted coffee bean, orange oil and flowers. The palate is light and textured, putting a premium on delicacy and restraint while painting around the edges. It’s a pretty green example of the variety, but it’s interesting.

Kerloo 2017 Stone Tree Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $NA 93 points
This is 100% varietal, fermented on skins for 49 days. The aromas are expressive, with notes of raspberry and macerated black cherry, bringing a sense of purity. The palate is rich and intense, packed to the brim with fruit flavors. Firm tannins surround it all. It’s an unabashedly hedonistic offering with more than enough structure to keep it all together. It’s more about the future than the present. Best after 2023. Cellar Selection

Kerloo 2017 Princess Syrah Walla Walla Valley $60 93 points
This is the winery’s first offering from the Rocks District, coming from Resurgent Vineyard and blended with 6% Viognier. Boom! The aromas explode from the glass, with notes of green and black olive tapenade, grilled asparagus, wet gravel, flowers, firepit and minerals. The 100% whole cluster shows itself. The palate is considerably more restrained than the aromas would suggest, but it is still plenty flavorful. A 45-second finish caps it off. It’s an intriguing expression of the region.

Kerloo 2017 Dionysus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $48 91 points
Coming from the White Bluffs area of the valley, the aromas are locked up, suggesting notes of cherry, tar, red plum, dried herbs and sweet herbs. The palate shows a sense of balance and intensity, with a lip-smacking quality to the firm, lightly grainy tannins. Herb and citrus notes linger on the finish. Give it some time in the bottle. Best after 2022.

Kerloo 2017 Majestic Columbia Valley $26 91 points
In this blend of 63% Grenache, 27% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah, the aromas aren’t quite ready to reveal their charms out of the gate, with notes of dried stick, stem, dried herbs, strawberry gummy and white pepper in the lead with raspberry following behind. The palate shows a lot of elegance, purity and detail—all hallmarks of this producer. Editor's Choice

Kerloo 2017 Upland Vineyard Grenache Snipes Mountain $40 89 points
Subtle aromas of moist earth, brown and green stems, crushed flowers, strawberry gummy and white pepper lead to light, juicy, elegant red fruit flavors that carry on the finish. It doesn’t entirely stand up on its own but should show well at the dinner table.

Kerloo 2017 Stone Tree Malbec Wahluke Slope $48 88 points
Orange oil, raspberry and herb aromas are followed by lighter-styled orange peel flavors with a slightly tacky feel that softens over time. It’s an unusual offering of the variety.

Kerloo 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $32 88 points
A new offering from this winery, it’s a blend of Red Willow (69%) and Bacchus (31%) fruit. The aromas offer notes of raspberry, wood spice, cherry cocoa and herbs. Soft fruit flavors follow, trailing toward the finish. It paints around the edges, not seeming to have fully settled in.

Kind Stranger 2018 Rosé Columbia Valley $17 91 points
This blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault is a very pretty pale salmon color. The aromas pop with notes of sour cherry, watermelon and bubblegum. Bone-dry, crisp, light flavors follow with high-wire acidity. Pink grapefruit notes persist on the finish. Acid hounds, this one’s for you. It needs food alongside it to show its best. Editor's Choice

Kind Stranger 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $17 91 points
All of the Cabernet for this wine comes from 1978 plantings at Wahluke Slope Vineyard. Aromas of tar, black currant and dried herbs lead to lithe fruit flavors supported by a fine sense of acidity and tannic structure. Plum flavors linger on the finish. A lovely sense of balance connects it all.

Kind Stranger 2018 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $17 90 points
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Evergreen Vineyard in the Ancient Lakes. Aromas of corn on the cob and candlewax are followed by pear and poached apple flavors. The creamy texture is counterweighted by this vineyard’s hallmark acidity. Melted butter notes linger on the finish. It’s a more serious bottle than typically found at this price. Editor's Choice

Latta 2016 Dana Dibble Freewater Rocks Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 92 points
This Rocks District wine offers outrageous notes of black and green olives, soot, flower, wet rock, orange peel and charcuterie plate—unmistakably from the appellation. The palate is lighter than the aromas might suggest but still richly flavorful, with a medicinal streak and a finish that won’t quit.

Latta 2016 Mourvèdre Snipes Mountain $45 92 points
The aromas are vibrant, with notes of black fruit, anise, green herb, flower and plum, showing a piercing sense of purity. Big, rich, ripe, hedonistic flavors follow. A lovely sense of texture ups the interest, and a lengthy finish caps it off. Delicious stuff.

Latta 2016 Latta Latta Snipes Mountain $35 92 points
Grenache makes up 60% of this wine, with the rest Syrah (26%) and Mourvèdre (14%). The aromas pop, with bright, fruit-forward notes of raspberry and strawberry candy, herbs and spices. The palate is richly flavorful, textured with a lingering finish. It brings a compelling sense of purity—a whole lot of wine for the money. Editor's Choice

Latta 2016 Lawrence Vineyard Roussanne Columbia Valley $30 92 points
Coming from a vineyard on the Royal Slope, this wine has aromas that draw you into the glass with notes of beeswax, pineapple, herb, spice, seashell and melon. The palate is rich and textured, with abundant stone fruit flavors. It has a sense of deftness, finesse and complexity. A long, fruit-filled finish caps it off. Glorious stuff with a long life in front of it. Best from 2023 to 2026. Cellar Selection

Latta 2016 Upland Grenache Snipes Mountain $45 91 points
Very pretty though restrained aromas of cherry candy, dried herbs and strawberry lead to a palate that packs a big punch of fruit flavor. The intensity is impressive.

Latta 2016 Freewater Rocks Grenache Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
This is a new offering from the winery, coming out of the Rocks District. The aromas are brooding, with notes of herbs, wild strawberry, white pepper and minerals, with whiffs of smoked meat. The palate is elegant but flavorful, lingering on the finish.



Latta 2016 Weinbau Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley $45 90 points
The aromas of tar, dark plum and aniseed intrigue. A full-flavored palate with soft tannins follow.

Liberty Lake 2017 Bud Burst Reserve Red Mountain $38 88 points
This blend is 28% Cabernet Franc, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 14% Carménère, 7% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. Raspberry, green pepper, sandalwood, green herb and cherry aromas are out front. Full-bodied fruit and barrel flavors follow. The tannins bring some astringency. It’s overtly green.

Liberty Lake 2017 Scooteney Flats Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $35 88 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of mocha, coffee, black tea, dried herbs and raspberry. Generous black cherry flavors follow, with a lightly chalky feel. Coffee notes linger on the finish, which brings a little heat.

Liberty Lake 2017 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Carménère Red Mountain $40 87 points
The first offering of this variety from the winery, it shows the variety’s green side, with aromas of jalapeño and green pepper accented by coffee and spice. The palate is light and lean, showing more of the same along with plentiful barrel accents. There are some fun things happening, but it’s pretty green.

Liberty Lake 2017 Scooteney Flats Vineyard Cabernet Franc Red Mountain $38 87 points
Green tea, green herb and smoke aromas are followed by soft, chocolaty flavors with quite firm tannins backing them up. It paints around the edges.

Liberty Lake 2017 Heritage Reserve Red Blend Red Mountain $40 87 points
This wine is half Syrah and half Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in new American oak. High-toned aromas of cranberry, dried cherry, anise and wood spice are followed by full-bodied flavors that show more of the same. The tannins bring a slightly pasty, gritty feel. Coffee notes linger on the finish. Fruit and barrel tussle at times.

Liberty Lake 2017 Reserve Syrah Red Mountain $41 87 points
All of the fruit for this wine comes from Ranch at the End of the Road Vineyard, aged 18 months in new American oak. Aromas of coffee, green wood, herb, medicine and anise are followed by rich, ripe fruit flavors. Tacky feeling tannins back it up. Some astringency on the palate distracts. It’s an unusual offering.



Liberty Lake 2018 Gewürztraminer Red Mountain $18 86 points
This comes from 1978 plantings and was made as an orange wine; its aromas offer notes of whole lychee and ginger. Dry, broad, slightly boozy-seeming flavors follow. It’s interesting but not entirely successful.

Liberty Lake 2017 Scooteney Flats Vineyard Merlot Red Mountain $30 86 points
Aromas of green herbs, flowers and anise are followed by tightly wound bittersweet chocolate flavors. The tannins bring a sense of astringency and bitterness, causing distraction. It’s a quite green offering of the variety.

Liberty Lake 2017 Scooteney Flats Vineyard Petit Verdot Red Mountain $31 85 points
Aromas of green herbs, smoked ham, vanilla and barrel spice are out front. A full-bodied palate follows, with smoky and medicinal flavors and a tacky feel to the firm tannins.

Lu & Oly 2018 We Sat by the Ocean White Blend Yakima Valley $NA 90 points
This is a side project from the folks at Mark Ryan. A blend of Viognier (60%) and Chardonnay (40%), with light aromas of pear, apple and spice, followed by full-bodied peach and tropical fruit flavors. There’s a whole lot to like.

Luke 2017 Merlot Wahluke Slope $25 91 points
Intoxicating aromas of espresso, high-cacao chocolate, green pepper, barrel spice, raspberry and herbs lead to focused, fresh fruit flavors that coat the palate. There’s a whole lot of acidity and firm tannin structure surrounding them, needing some time to settle in. It’s a serious wine to find at this price. Give it a brief decant. Editor's Choice

Luke 2017 Red Blend Wahluke Slope $25 91 points
This is a new offering from the winery. With this blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, the aromas intrigue, with notes of graphite, cherry, raspberry, flower and spice. The palate brings a sense of sophistication and intensity. Firm tannins back it up. It’s a lot of wine for the money. Editor's Choice

Luke 2017 Syrah Wahluke Slope $25 91 points
Appealing aromas of coffee, assorted dried herbs and whiffs of smoked meat are followed by a soft, sultry palate, full of plum flavors that glide on the finish. The tannins show a little tackiness at present, revealing the wine’s youth. Give it a short decant to see it deliver.

Luke 2018 Chardonnay Ancient Lakes $NA 90 points
This is a new offering from the winery, with the fruit coming from Evergreen Vineyard. Light aromas of toast, chalk and mineral are followed by sleek apple and pear flavors. Kiwi notes linger on the finish. There’s a lovely sense of balance throughout.

Luke 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope $25 90 points
The aromas offer notes of espresso, vanilla, spice and cherry. The palate brings cherry and raspberry flavors. Grainy, slightly astringent tannins back it up. It’s a bit clenched at present and will only improve with some time in bottle. Give it a long decant if drinking in the near term.

Maison Bleue 2017 Frontière Funk Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75 92 points
This Rocks District vineyard often shows a funky side (no pun intended) as does most of the appellation. Here, the winery shows its prettier, more elegant aspects. It offers tones of blueberry, strawberry, orange peel, smoked ham and flowers, showing a piercing sense of purity. The palate is seamless and lingering. It’s a unique and delicious offering from this appellation. Editor's Choice

Maison Bleue 2017 Voyageur Syrah Walla Walla Valley $50 92 points
Compelling, achingly pure aromas of blueberry, boysenberry, flower and tangerine are followed by elegant, soft-feeling flavors that bring a dazzling sense of purity. It’s a unique, knee-buckling expression. Editor's Choice

Maison Bleue 2017 Bourgeois Grenache Walla Walla Valley $50 90 points
Fruity aromas of whole berries, gummy candies and whole orange are followed by elegant fruit flavors. It’s a light, very pretty expression of the variety and area with a long life ahead of it.

Mark Ryan 2017 Monkey Wrench Columbia Valley $32 92 points
This is a new offering from the winery. In this blend of 47% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc and 9% Petit Verdot, the aromas are brooding out of the gate, with notes of barrel spice, raspberry, coffee, dried herbs and dark chocolate emerging over time. The palate shows a sense of deftness, sophistication and detail, with a lightly creamy feel. The balance is exquisite. Dee-licious—and a big-time value to boot. Some time in the cellar will serve it well. Editor's Choice

Prospice 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $50 93 points
This is one of the inaugural releases from the winery, with most of the fruit coming from Golden Ridge Vineyard. The aromas are reserved, with notes of dark chocolate, red fruit, earth and spice, not yet fully ready to reveal their charms. The palate on the other hand has it all—texture, layering, structure, sophistication and detail. An extended finish caps it off. It’s a knee-buckler. Give it some additional time in the bottle. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection

Prospice 2017 Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Franc Horse Heaven Hills $50 93 points
We know what a special vineyard this is for Cabernet Sauvignon, but this wine shows that the grape’s progeny can excel there, too. Its 100% varietal, alluring aromas of raspberry, earth, herbs and flowers focus the attention. The palate is dense and textured, full of dark-fruit flavors with a firm sense of tannic structure. The balance is impressive. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection

Prospice 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $50 93 pointsThis is one of the first red releases from the winery, and it’s a show-stopper. Seeing just 29% new oak, it’s a blend of fruit from Phinny Hill, Golden Ridge, Dionysus, Resurgent, Bacchus and Quintessence vineyards. The aromas are reserved on first pour, with notes of dark chocolate, cherry, dried herbs, anise and spice. The palate is knee-buckling, so beautifully balanced, showing a sense of layering and detail. It’s a proclamation for this winery. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection

Pursued by Bear 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $70 91 points
Enchanting aromas of green coffee bean, black cherry, graphite, black licorice and dried flowers are followed by well-balanced, palate-coating dark-fruit and coffee flavors. The tannins are combed to a fine sheen.

Rôtie Cellars 2017 Northern Blend Syrah Walla Walla Valley $48 94 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the winery’s estate vineyard in the Rocks District and includes 5% Viognier. The aromas start off brooding, opening to reveal notes of firepit, charcuterie plate, blueberry, freshly peeled tangerine and black pepper. Sweet, full-bodied, palate-coating flavors follow, while never getting overweighted. It’s downright delicious, with impeccable balance and length. Editor's Choice

Rôtie Cellars 2018 Southern Walla Walla Valley $32 92 points
This wine is a blend of 68% Viognier, 20% Roussanne and 12% Marsanne. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of mineral, whole peach, melon and citrus. A full-bodied flavorful palate, chock-full of ripe peach and pear notes, follows, accented by a lovely sense of acidity. There’s a bright future for Walla Walla whites, and this is one of the wineries leading the way. Best from 2021 until 2025. Cellar Selection

Rôtie Cellars 2017 Southern Blend Washington $48 92 points
Grenache makes up 70% of this wine, with the rest Mourvèdre (20%) and Syrah (10%). The aromas are effusive with notes of olive brine, raspberry compote, blueberry, moist earth and whole tangerine. A full-bodied, outrageously flavorful palate follows, laden with fruit and savory flavors. Orange notes linger on the finish. Editor's Choice

Seven Falls 2017 Chardonnay Wahluke Slope $NA 89 points
The aromas of pear tart, baking spice and mineral bring appeal. Rounded, full flavors follow. It shows a lovely sense of balance—a high quality, well-priced offering of the variety.

Seven Falls 2016 Rapids Red Blend Wahluke Slope $NA 87 points
Aromas of raspberry compote, coffee and tire rubber lead to somewhat lighter-seeming cherry and café au lait flavors. It’s a pleasant if somewhat innocuous offering.

Seven Falls 2015 Merlot Wahluke Slope $NA 87 pointsVanilla aromas are at the fore, along with notes of nougat, sweet spice and cherry. Rich, barrel-forward flavors follow, with the tannins bringing some astringency. The oak steals the show, but there’s still enjoyment to be had.

Sleight of Hand 2017 The Sorceress Reserve Grenache Yakima Valley $45 92 points
Pale in color, the wine features aromas that pull you into the glass, with notes of whole raspberry, white pepper, stem, green olive, smoke, peat and dried herbs. The smoked meat, raspberry and savory flavors are light and transparent in style, gliding across the palate. It’s a very pretty example of the variety, focusing on elegance but with a nice yum factor behind it. White pepper notes linger on the finish. Give it some additional time in the bottle, or decant.

Sleight of Hand 2018 The Magician Evergreen Vineyard Riesling Columbia Valley $18 91 points
The aromas pop, with notes of flower, cut green apple, lime leaf, botrytis and muscat gummy. Just a hair off-dry lemon Nestea iced tea follow. A lemony, lip-smacking finish tops it off. Tasty stuff. Editor's Choice

Sleight of Hand 2017 The Enchantress Old Vine French Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley $28 91 points
As always, French Creek Vineyard and its 40-plus-year-old vines provide the fruit for this wine. Lees aromas are at the fore, along with notes of spice, Cheddar, baked apple and white peach. Full-bodied, textured flavors follow, with lively acidity backing them up. Apple notes linger on the finish. It’s a beautiful offering that will age well in the cellar. Editor's Choice

Sleight of Hand 2016 The Archimage Reserve Columbia Valley $52 90 points
Cabernet Franc makes up half of this wine, with the balance 47% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Black tea, green herb, cherry and green pepper aromas are followed by somewhat lighter-styled fruit and barrel flavors. Firm tannic structure backs it up. The concentration wavers at times, but what’s there is pretty.

Sleight of Hand 2017 Psychedelic Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $60 90 points
Blue fruit aromas are out front, along with notes of plum, cherry gummy, exotic spice and olive. The palate is reserved in style, but brings a sense of texture. It’s an unusual offering from this appellation.

Sleight of Hand 2017 The Conjurer Columbia Valley $28 90 points
This wine is a blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Cabernet Franc and 21% Merlot. The aromas are reserved on first pour, with notes of gunsmoke, green pepper, pencil lead, fresh flower and cherry, blossoming with some time open. Pillowy-feeling cherry and dark chocolate flavors follow, with green herb notes laced throughout. It’s a pretty wine.

Sleight of Hand 2016 The Illusionist Reserve Columbia Valley $52 90 points
Aromas of green pepper, baking spice, graphite, roasted coffee bean and tobacco are out front. Somewhat compact plum and spice flavors follow, broadening over time. The tannins give a firm handshake, needing some additional time to loosen their grip.

Sleight of Hand 2017 Levitation Reserve Syrah Columbia Valley $45 90 points
This wine is a blend of fruit from Lewis (68%) and Les Collines (32%) vineyards. Aged in concrete and large-format barrels, the wine has vibrant aromas of dark roasted coffee, fresh herbs, plum, violet, smoke and soot, leading to plentiful, full-bodied fruit and savory flavors. It has a lip-smacking quality, needing some time in the cellar to stretch its legs.

Sleight of Hand 2017 The Spellbinder Red Blend Columbia Valley $20 88 points
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah make up this wine. Aromas of mortared fresh herbs, green pepper and cherry lead to lightly concentrated plum and dark-fruit flavors that are a bit clenched at present. There’s a lot of enjoyment to be had.

Structure 2017 Bauhaus Syrah Yakima Valley $25 90 points
The aromas aren’t ready to reveal their charms initially, with light notes of orange peel, green olive, stem and crushed rock revealing themselves over time. Full bodied, pillowy olive and cherry flavors follow. If the aromas open it could move up, but it’s plenty delicious as is.

Structure 2017 Craftsman Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $28 90 points
The aromas offer notes of green flower, green pepper, barrel spice, anise and cherry. There’s a lovely sense of freshness and texture to the palate. Not meant to be enjoyed on its own, it will shine at the dinner table.

Structure 2017 Spire Merlot Yakima Valley $25 89 points
The aromas are intriguing, with notes of green tea, freshly peeled Satsuma orange and raspberry. The flavors are light and lovely, bringing a sense of texture that ups the interest. It lingers on the finish. It doesn’t scream Merlot but is enjoyable all the same.

Structure 2017 Foundation Mourvèdre Snipes Mountain $35 88 points
Subdued, usual aromas of cranberry, crushed flowers, Satsuma orange oil, white pepper, wet rock, black licorice and raspberry are followed by tart, lighter-styled fruit flavors with a lightly smoky finish. It’s part interesting, part successful. Put it on the dinner table alongside a grilled lamb chop with a cherry compote to see it at its best.

Structure 2018 Oculus Viognier Horse Heaven Hills $25 88 points
The aromas are vibrant, redolent with notes of pear, honeysuckle and melon. The flavors can’t quite deliver on all of this promise, sleek and light, with Mandarin orange notes on the warm finish.

Structure 2017 Piloti Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley $28 86 points
Aromas of orange oil, flowers and black licorice lead to quite smoky fruit flavors that show some astringency.

Tamarack Cellars 2017 Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $30 91 points
Enchanting aromas of dried leaf, cherry, mocha, coffee and herbs dance in the glass. The palate brings brawny tannins and fresh dark-cherry flavors. This one would benefit from some time in the cellar. Best after 2022.



Tamarack Cellars 2016 Firehouse Red Blend Columbia Valley $20 88 points
Merlot (31%), Syrah (27%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (16%) and Cabernet Franc (11%) comprise the heart of this wine, with Mourvèdre, Grenache, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Counoise making up the difference. Roasted coffee bean, nori and tire rubber aromas are out front, followed by notes of dark chocolate and spice. The palate paints around the edges.

Tertulia 2017 Ryan’s Reserve Estate Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
Cabernet Sauvignon comprises half of this wine, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc each making up 21% and the rest Malbec. The aromas are fragrant, with notes of green pepper, flower, coffee, cedar, black cherry, cocoa, cranberry and black licorice. The palate is tightly wound, packed full of acidity and tannins supporting lighter-styled fruit flavors.

Tertulia 2017 Elevation Estate Vineyard Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley $45 91 points
Coming from a vineyard in the North Fork region of the valley that ranges from 1,500 to 1,700 feet in elevation, this 100% varietal wine offers aromas of herbs, vanilla, cherry, baker’s chocolate and anise. Soft green pepper, cranberry and raspberry flavors follow, showing a sense of elegance and length. The oak (25% new French) is dialed back. It’s a very pretty, distinctive offering of the variety.

Tertulia 2016 Phinny Hill Vineyard Carménère Horse Heaven Hills $48 88 points
Braised green pepper aromas are out front. Coffee, Satsuma orange and cherry notes follow. Plentiful green pepper notes make up the soft, flavorful palate. It’s an unabashedly green offering of the variety.

Tierra Labrada 2017 Elevation Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $95 90 points
Grown in fractured basalt and silt soils at an elevation of 1,500 to 1,700 feet and aged in 100% new French oak. The aromas are brooding, with notes of vanilla, cassis, tobacco, whole Satsuma orange, cranberry and dried herbs. Fruit and barrel play off each other on the elegant but flavorful palate, backed by lightly grainy tannins. Coffee notes linger on the finish.

Tierra Labrada 2017 Elevation Vineyard Petit Verdot Walla Walla Valley $85 90 points
Aromas of raspberry, cocoa, herbs, cola, citrus and minerals lead to a soft, flavorful palate that brings a sense of volume. The tannins give it a lightly grainy feel. Allow it some time to stretch its legs.