Sean P. Sullivan - Washington Wine Report

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“The scale of this investment is significant,” says Ryan Pennington, senior director of communications and corporate affairs at SMWE. “And we see that not only as a significant vote of confidence for our team, and our estates and brands, but really for the entire Washington wine industry.”

Read the rest of the article here. 

A native of Snohomish, Washington, Stewart started out as an intern at Quilceda Creek in 2004 before subsequently being hired as enologist in 2006. In 2014, Stewart, who has an enology degree from California State University, Fresno, was named production winemaker. In 2018, he was promoted to winemaker.

“First and foremost, it was just the opportunity to work with friends,” Stewart says of joining Matthews. “It's not every day that a longtime friend approaches you and says ‘Hey, I’ve got this opportunity for you guys.’”

The “you guys” Stewart refers to includes two other members of the Quilceda Creek winemaking team, Jesse Schmidt and Hal Iverson. Schmidt, who will serve as winemaker at Matthews, was hired as a cellar hand at Quilceda in 2009 before being promoted to assistant winemaker in 2014. Hal Iverson will also have the title of winemaker at Matthews. Iverson became assistant winemaker at Quilceda in 2017.

“It’s really clear, getting to know them all, how they function as a unit,” Otis says. “I buy the wines and love the wines that this team has produced. The fact that they're coming over and working on wines that we feel passionate about is really, really special.”

Stewart says the opportunity to continue working with Schmidt and Iverson was an important part of joining Matthews.

“We’ve always considered ourselves dynamic, like a sports team,” Stewart says. “We can anticipate each other's moods and finish each other's…”

“Sentences!” Schmidt calls out from another room.

At Quilceda Creek, the three were largely focused on Cabernet Sauvignon. At Matthews, in addition to Cabernet, they will also have the opportunity to make varietally labeled bottles of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Sauvignon Blanc, in addition to the winery’s Cuvée, Claret, and Blackboard wines.

“Washington produces some of the best Bordeaux varietals in the world,” Stewart says. “I’m excited to try to elevate the quality level of the rest of them along with Cabernet.”

Founded in 1992, Matthews is one of Woodinville’s oldest wineries. The Otis family, which had previously been investors in Matthews, purchased the winery in 2008. Over the ensuing years, the family has slowly grown production, honed the portfolio, and made major investments in the vineyards that they work with and in the winery. This is a continuation of those investments.

“For us, the idea of taking the craftsmanship that you have with this team and bringing it to the wines we make is really exciting,” says Otis.

Matthews makes 15,000-17,500 cases of wine annually. Aryn Morell, who also makes his own wines at Alleromb, The Royal Bull, and Morell-Peña, had been winemaker at Matthews since 2007.

As a growing region, Goose Gap has two key distinguishing features. The first is the orientation of the crest of Goose Hill. Like many other Columbia Valley appellations, Goose Hill is a Yakima Fold Belt structure, a series of wrinkles in the landscape. Other prominences in this area, such as Red Mountain, Candy Mountain, and Badger Mountain, have crests that lie northwest to southeast. In contrast, Goose Hill’s crest lies east-west.

Red Mountain and Candy Mountain have more gentle slopes on their south-southwestern sides. For this reason, as well as these slope’s angle to the sun, most vineyard plantings are on these aspects. In contrast, due to its different orientation, Goose Hill has a gentle north-facing slope and a steeper south-facing side. The majority of Goose Gap’s vines are therefore planted on north-northeast facing slopes. This differences in aspect decreases the solar radiation the grapes receive during the growing season.

“Goose, the way that it sits, it’s so different from all of the other mountains around it,” says Sydney Anderson, viticulturalist at Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard and Winery, which lies within the appellation. She notes that the Yakima River, which flows to the west and north of Goose Gap, also influences the weather in the appellation.

“We get this dividing of clouds and fog and weather that’s almost like a rain shadow effect. We’ll be in the fog and you drive to Benton City, and all of a sudden it just clears up or vice versa.” This difference in orientation and weather lead to grapes in Goose Gap ripening as much as a week or more later than nearby sites on Red Mountain and Candy Mountain.

“We will be watching our neighbors harvest different varieties that we won’t start harvesting for a while,” Anderson says. Though like Red Mountain and Candy Mountain, Goose Gap is a warm growing region – averaging approximately 3350 Growing Degree Days – this difference in aspect gives it a unique combination of traditional Yakima Valley and Red Mountain profiles.

“The wines that we've made from Goose in the past have a common thread, and you can identify those as you're tasting them,” says Muñoz-Oca.

The appellation’s other key distinguishing feature is its soils. Five soil series – Warden, Shano, Kiona, Hezel, and Prosser – make up almost 95% of the area. However, nearly two-thirds of the soils are Warden series, a greater percentage than the surrounding appellations.

“I remember Wade Wolfe [of Thurston Wolfe Winery] saying a long time ago ‘Cabernet Sauvignon loves the Warden soils,’” says geologist Alan Busacca, whose company Vinitas Consultants was hired to write the appellation petition. “Perhaps it's the high water holding capacity of the loess cap that helps make it very resilient to drought stress.”

Warden soils have on average 20 inches of loess – windblown silt and sand – overlying stratified slackwater sediment from the Missoula Floods, a series of cataclysmic events that define most of Columbia Valley’s soils. This makes the soils ideal for irrigated viticulture. Together Warden and Shano series soils make up 85% of the area currently planted to vineyards.

Goose Gap is a sub-appellation of Yakima Valley, which itself is wholly contained within the larger Columbia Valley. Both Goose Hill and Goose Gap receive their name from the area being a common flight path for waterfowl. Goose Gap itself is a saddle between Goose Hill to the west and Badger and Candy Mountains to the east.

Elevations range from 577 feet to 1,339 feet above sea level, with the top of Goose Hill above the Missoula Floods, which had a maximum elevation of 1,200 feet. The area receives approximately seven inches of precipitation annually.

Goose Gap is 8,129 total acres in size, with 1,810 acres planted to grapevines across two commercial vineyards. These vineyards are Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard, which contains the vast majority of plantings, and an Aquilini Brands property. Interstate 82 bisects the northern portion of the appellation. Goose Ridge is the sole winery within the appellation’s boundaries, with all of the fruit coming from its estate site. There are also hundreds of acres of tree fruit within Goose Gap.

In addition to Goose Ridge, more than 20 other wineries source fruit from Goose Gap, with other major producers including Ste Michelle Wine Estates, Precept Wine, and House of Smith. Cabernet Sauvignon makes up almost 40% of plantings, followed by Chardonnay (25%), Merlot (14%), and Syrah (14%). However, due to its varied elevations, aspects, and soils, there are 16 grape varieties planted within Goose Gap’s borders.

“There is so much diversity in such a small area,” says Andrew Wilson, winemaker at Goose Ridge. “It makes it an exciting place to make wine.”

Arvid Monson, whose family had already been growing crops in Yakima Valley for decades, established the first plantings at Goose Gap. As is often the case in Washington, the influence of Dr. Walter Clore, the father of Washington wine, can be felt in the appellation.

   

“There are vines planted in those vineyards that never froze to the ground since, in our case, ’72.”

The White Bluffs’ second major distinguishing feature is the appellation’s subsoil, which is referred to as Ringold Formation. This is a thick deposit of ancient river and lakebed sediment. On top of the Ringold Formation is a hard layer of caliche (calcium carbonate). Above that are Missoula Flood deposits along with windblown silt and sand.

The thick Ringold Formation and hard caliche layer mean that, unlike almost all other areas of the Columbia Valley, vines planted in White Bluffs will never reach bedrock. “I purposely drew the boundary so that any vine planted in the in the AVA can't possibly get its roots into basalt bedrock,” Pogue notes.

Vines will therefore interact with a different suite of minerals. Basalt is rich in iron and magnesium. In contrast, Ringold Formation is higher in sodium, potassium, and calcium Pogue says. Additionally, these sediments have a higher clay content. This increases water holding capacity, an important factor in a grapegrowing region where irrigation is vital.

The Ringold Formation runs approximately 30 miles, the length of the appellation. It is exposed in the escarpment above the Columbia River. The white striations in the Ringold Formation, caused by volcanic ash and caliche deposits, give White Bluffs its name.

John Bookwalter, president of J. Bookwalter in Richland, is intimately familiar with the area. His father Jerry moved to Washington in 1975 to manage Sagemoor Vineyards, and John grew up in a home above Bacchus and Dionysus vineyards. These vineyards are the winery's second largest fruit source.

Bookwalter says the added elevation and proximity to the Columbia River make the area special.

“It's all about the drainage of the air due to the Columbia River,” Bookwalter says. “It’s not as hot as some areas or as cool as others. There’s power and then the tannin profile still tends to be pretty approachable.”

Mike Januik, owner and winemaker at Januik Winery and winemaker at Novelty Hill, has similarly been using White Bluffs fruit for decades. He says the history of grapegrowing also separates the area.

“They’ve been doing this for a long time,” Januik says. “They've got those vineyards figured out.”

Beginning July 19th, wineries can submit labels with White Bluffs on them to the TTB for approval. Given the large number of producers sourcing fruit from the region – a number of whom have already been making vineyard designated bottles for years – Washington wine lovers can expect to see White Bluffs on bottles shortly thereafter.

However, Claar Cellars’ owner Robert Whitelatch, whose family has long advocated for the area to gain appellation status, says the approval is just the beginning of achieving consumer awareness.

“The job’s not over, Whitelatch says. “The job is just starting.”

✝ Candy Mountain, Royal Slope, White Bluffs, and The Burn of Columbia Valley have been approved in the last nine months.

To purchase Southwind, Sagemoor partnered with Resource Land Holdings, a private equity firm based in Denver, Colorado. Metis, a Northwest-based mergers and acquisitions advisory firm, worked with both parties on the sale.

Some are even saying the 2020 vintage is shaping up to be one of Washington’s best in recent years. After a year no one will forget, we can all toast to that. As we rise to new challenges in 2021, here are the latest consumer wine trends.

Read the full article here. 

Here's a look at recent bloom dates for this vineyard and variety:

“I photographed Marie-Eve early on in my wine photographer career,” noted Duval, “and I was instantly enamored with her energy, her dry wit and of course her winemaking magic. Over a decade later, she remains a favorite subject – different settings but always Marie-Eve." 

Let the 2020 growing season begin!

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Fruit for this wine comes from some of the oldest vines in the Columbia Gorge, planted in 1968. Generous aromas of Mandarin orange, flower, lychee and ginger lead to just off-dry drinking, exquisitely balanced fruit flavors that are light on their feet but bring intensity. It’s gorgeous, exhibiting the area’s acidity and mineral streaks. Editor’s Choice

History 2017 The Pines Vineyard Zinfandel Columbia Valley (OR) $65 92 points 

Without further ado.

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92 wines reviewed in the April issue of Wine Enthusiast.

10,000 Hours 2018 Red Mountain $35 92 points
Plum, black currant and barrel spice aromas are followed by broad dark fruit and spice flavors that show plenty of concentration and intensity. It brings a real sense a depth from start to finish. Editor’s Choice

10,000 Hours 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $35 90 points
This wine is still wound up tightly right now, with notes of toasty oak, herb and dark fruit. Blackberry and black cherry flavors follow. The tannins are tightly wound. There’s a lot of goodness to be had. Give it a decant. Editor’s Choice

Battle Creek NV Yamhela Vineyard Blanc de Noir Sparkling Blend America $45 90 points
This was given an American label, but don’t be fooled—this is all Willamette Valley fruit. Strawberry and raspberry aromas lead to bright, fresh flavors. There’s a lot to like.

Be Human 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $17 91 points
This wine is unmistakably Cabernet, with its aromas of black currant, spice and dark fruit. The palate brings seriousness uncommon to see at a wine at this price, rich through the middle with plenty of structure to back it up. A light medicinal streak runs in the background. Editor’s Choice

Be Human 2018 Columbia Valley $17 89 points
This vintage offers a bounty of fruit, and this wine is a great example of it. Aromas of light toasty oak meld with plum, leading to bountiful black currant and raspberry flavors. There’s pleasing balance throughout.

Bergevin Lane 2016 Moonspell Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $35 88 points
With this 100% varietal, aromas of gummy, cinnamon and cherry are followed by green pepper, vanilla and cherry flavors with a lightly grainy feel. Give a short decant.

Calendar 2019 White Blend Yakima Valley $14 90 points
Consisting mostly of Muscat Ottonel, the aromas pop, with notes of Mandarin orange spritz, flower and honey. It delights by drinking just about bone-dry, remaining light on its feet, and bringing structure rarely seen for the variety. Best Buy

Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Picpoul Yakima Valley $25 91 points
Aromas of whole lemon and lemon oil are followed by a rounded palate and quite puckering fruit flavors. There’s a big kick of acidity that delights. Pair it with lemon risotto and prawns. Editor’s Choice

Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Grenache Blanc Yakima Valley $25 90 points
Coming from one of the state’s top vineyards, the nose of this wine offers green apple, lemon zest and wet rock leading to a tart, puckering and sleek lemon twist flavor. It’s a thoroughly delicious, high-acid wine. Pair it with scallop ceviche with kiwi and lime. Editor’s Choice

Callan 2019 Rosé Yakima Valley $0 88 points
Pale pink with an orange tint, this wine is 70% Cinsault and 30% Grenache. Aromas of strawberry and peach are followed by full feeling flavors that show some sweetness but with enough acidity to pull it off.

Chasing Rain 2018 Merlot Red Mountain $25 91 points
This wine is a lot of what there is to love about Washington Merlot. It offers an opulent mouthful of ripe fruit flavors, with plenty of structure to back it all up. Editor’s Choice

Chasing Rain 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $25 90 points
Red Mountain Cabernet at this price? Yes, please. Blackberry, dried herb and spice lead to palate-coating fruit flavors with plenty of structure. It shows impressive balance. Editor’s Choice

Chasing Rain 2018 Red Mountain $25 88 points
Aromas of chocolate and cherry lead to soft fruit flavors. There’s a lot of structure surrounding them, upping the interest. Decant if drinking in the near term.

Claar 2018 White Bluffs Vineyard Estate Grown & Bottled Syrah Columbia Valley $30 87 points
Light aromas of plum and wood spice are followed by somewhat lighter-styled black pepper and plum flavors. The concentration seems a bit light at times, but what’s there pleases.

Elevation Cellars 2013 Monolith Columbia Valley $41 88 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 70% of this wine, with the rest Merlot (14%) and near equal parts Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. The aromas bring notes of dried herbs, celery salt and dried cherry. Tire rubber and cherry flavors follow, with the tannins showing some astringency.

Elevation Cellars 2016 Black Peak StoneTree Vineyard Tempranillo Wahluke Slope $38 87 points
Aromas of vanilla, baking spice, wood and cherry lead to vanilla-laden, creamy-feeling flavors backed by astringent tannins. The oak gets far out in front of the fruit.

Elevation Cellars 2013 Jammin’ Columbia Valley $25 87 points
This wine is 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec. The aromas bring notes of fresh garden herbs, hay, cocoa, cherry and dark chocolate. Despite the age, the palate is bunched up and short. It brings surprising acidity given the warmth of the vintage.

Gård 2017 Winemaker’s Select Lawrence Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $85 91 points
The aromas bring notes of raspberry compote, coffee and spice. Plentiful cherry and black licorice flavors follow, with the lightly grainy tannins giving a squeeze. Coffee notes linger on the finish. This one needs time to be fully appreciated but has good stuffing.

Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $40 90 points
Roasted coffee bean and dark chocolate aromas are upfront, with cherry behind. Lighter-styled vanilla and coffee flavors follow, with a pleasing sense of texture and balance. It’s a restrained offering of the variety. The oak plays a prominent part in the show but plays it well.

Gård 2018 Lawrence Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley $28 90 points
The aromas offer notes of candlewax and crayon. There’s plenty of deftness to the lightly creamy flavors, keeping the interest high, with lovely balance to it all.

Gård 2016 Reserve Grand Klasse Lawrence Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $55 89 points
The aromas offer notes of dark roasted coffee bean, green pepper, dried herbs, orange rind and cherry. Sleek coffee and cherry flavors follow. Coffee notes linger on the finish. Like a number of wines from this vintage, the fruit concentration is light, but what’s there is tasty.

Gård 2017 The Don Lawrence Estate Wines Red Blend Columbia Valley $24 88 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up a little more than three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. The aromas offer notes of cherry, tobacco and mesquite, not seeming entirely settled. The flavors are pulled back, surrounded by bright acidity and smoky flavors.

Gård 2017 Grand Klasse Reserve Lawrence Vineyards Roussanne Columbia Valley $28 88 points
The aromas bring notes of toast and char that are quite prominent. Aromas of nut oil follow. The flavors are sleek and savory, with pleasing acidity. There are good things happening if the oak integrates.

Goose Ridge 2018 g3 Estate Grown Family Owned Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $15 91 points
A black currant aroma is at the fore of this wine, followed by notes of spice and herb. There is a whole lot of depth and intensity to the dark fruit flavors. It’s absolutely chock-full of fruit and structure. Best Buy

Gramercy 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $95 93 points
Aromas of mocha, piercingly pure cherry, graphite and cedar box lead to a textured, graceful palate. The style is very pulled back and is all about elegance and grace. It brings a fine sense of acidity and tannin structure. Pair it with ratatouille. Best after 2025 with a very long life beyond that. Cellar Selection

Gramercy 2017 John Lewis Syrah Walla Walla Valley $87 92 points
This wine is light in color for the variety and vintage. The aromas bring notes of peat, dried stem and moist soil. The elegant, textured smoked meat flavors meanwhile are all about grace and precision. A lingering finish follows. As always with this producer, it’s a wine intended to be enjoyed with food. Pair it with grilled lamb chops. Editor’s Choice

Grounded Wine Co. 2018 Collusion Red Blend Columbia Valley $23 91 points
The aromas bring notes of caramel, plum, tobacco and cherry. The luscious, plump, juicy fruit flavors have more than enough acidity and tannin structure to hold them up. Editor’s Choice

Headturner 2018 The Nerve Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $25 91 points
This is an appropriately named, attention-getting wine. The aromas draw you into the glass with notes of dried herbs, plum and black currant. The flavors are fresh and lively, with a lightly grainy feel to the tannins and pleasing depth of flavor. Editor’s Choice

Headturner 2018 Flyaway Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills $25 88 points
Panna cotta and vanilla make up the aromas and the flavors. A creamy feel caps it off, along with a light medicinal accent. It finishes warm.

History 2016 Mont Elise Vineyard Gewürztraminer Columbia Gorge $30 92 points
Fruit for this wine comes from some of the oldest vines in the Columbia Gorge, planted in 1968. Generous aromas of Mandarin orange, flower, lychee and ginger lead to just off-dry drinking, exquisitely balanced fruit flavors that are light on their feet but bring intensity. It’s gorgeous, exhibiting the area’s acidity and mineral streaks. Editor’s Choice

History 2017 The Pines Vineyard Zinfandel Columbia Valley (OR) $65 92 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, planted in the late 1800s. Appealing aromas of raspberry, cranberry and baking spice are followed by a broad but sophisticated palate. It’s a tribute to the variety. Editor’s Choice

History 2017 Columbia Valley $40 92 points
Coming from some of the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, this wine is 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec and 9% Merlot. The aromas are pulled back, with notes of plum, dried leaves, cherry and whiffs of tar. The flavors are plump, joyful and well-balanced, with an emphasis on purity. It’s a testament to old vine fruit—and all about sophistication. Editor’s Choice

History 2017 Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley (OR) $75 91 points
This side project from the Oregon’s Stoller focuses on some of the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, with this one coming from the first commercial plantings in the valley (1981). It leans into the variety’s savory side, with aromas of fresh huckleberry, marionberry, nori, dark soil and whiffs of whole green pepper. The soft, supple flavors show sneaky intensity. It hangs on the finish. The oak is pulled back, letting the fruit shine. This is all about sophistication. Editor’s Choice

Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner White Blend Snake River Valley (ID) $16 90 points
This is mostly Riesling (83%), with the rest Muscat Blanc and Roussanne. Aromas of lychee, pink grapefruit rind and white flowers jump from the glass. Dry, sleek and focused lemon and iced tea flavors follow, hanging around on the finish. Editor’s Choice

Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner Rosé Washington $19 88 points
Coming from an Idaho producer, this pale salmon wine with a gold tinge could be varietally labeled as Mourvèdre. The aromas bring notes of apple and raspberry leading to tart, medium-bodied flavors. There’s a lot to like.

Huston 2018 Malbec Snake River Valley (ID) $32 88 points
Asphalt aromas are at the fore and eventually give way to green pepper, orange essence, exotic spice and loose gravel. Reserved, bunched up fruit flavors follow. The tannins give a grip, and the acidity is bright. It’s not clear where it’s all going.

Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner Red Blend Idaho $18 87 points
Fruit-forward aromas of plum, huckleberry and dried herbs lead to tart, center-focused green pepper and cherry flavors with some tart acidity behind them. There are good things happening, but it comes off as a bit green.

Kennedy Shah 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $55 87 points
Aromas of vanilla, garden fresh herb, tar, dried black currant and black cherry lead to a palate that paints around the edges. There’s brightness to the acidity, with the tannins giving a light squeeze.

Kennedy Shah 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley $18 87 points
The aromas bring notes of brown and green stem, dried leaves, hay and plum followed by tart tobacco and hay flavors. The acidity of the vintage is primary. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best.

Kerloo 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley $18 90 points
The aromas suggest notes of star fruit, grass, tropical fruit and herb. Bright, light on their feet kiwi skin and pineapple rind flavors follow. It’s a very pretty, food-friendly offering. Pair it with halibut with a pineapple-kiwi relish.

L'Ecole No. 41 2019 Semillon Columbia Valley $15 92 points
L’Ecole has been carrying the banner for this variety in Washington for decades. This wine has everything there is to love about the variety, with textural richness and flavor intensity along with plenty of acidity to back it up. Best Buy

Le Doubblé Troubblé 2019 Dry Hollow Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley (OR) $30 91 points
This is fascinating—an Oregon side of the Columbia Valley Merlot in a Rhône-shaped bottle released extremely early with the oak pulled way back. Aromas of red plum, muscat gummy and pomegranate lead to pleasantly pure, textured, layered fruit flavors. It’s a radically different interpretation of this variety. Give it a bit of additional time in bottle or decant to see it at its best. Editor’s Choice

Le Doubblé Troubblé 2019 Gewürztraminer Columbia Gorge $30 89 points
Boom! The aromas explode with notes of lychee, ginger and white flowers, bringing vitality. The palate drinks dry and is light on its feet but with plenty of flavor, with mouthwatering acidity that brings it home.

Maison Bleue 2018 Frontière Funk Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75 91 points
The aromas immediately place this wine in the Rocks District, with notes of moist earth, black pepper, peat and firepit, along with orange rind. Soft, plush fruit and savory flavors follow, bringing restraint and sophistication alongside a lightly creamy feel.

Maison Bleue 2018 Voyageur LeFore Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $50 90 points
Coming from a Rocks District vineyard known for its quality but never the area’s signature funk, this producer’s fruit-forward style is on display. Fresh berry, orange rind, flower and gummy bear aromas lead to elegant, pure fruit flavors. It’s a vivid display of this area and vineyard.

Maison Bleue 2018 Gravière Stone Valley Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $65 90 points
Bright aromas of berry, gummy and cherry along with whiffs of smoke are followed by fruit flavors that bring purity. The balance is lovely.

Marion-Field 2016 Toby Tylor Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $28 88 points
This wine explores the variety’s greener, more savory side, with notes of stem, green and poblano peppers, flower, cocoa and cherry. There’s plenty of density to the flavors. It might be too green for some tastes, but there are good things happening.

Matthews 2018 Reserve Cuvée Columbia Valley $85 93 points
This is the inaugural release of this wine, with Merlot making up just under three-quarters and the rest Cabernet Franc (16%), Cabernet Sauvignon (8%) and Petit Verdot (2%). Still settling in, baking spice aromas are out front, followed by notes of cinnamon and raspberry. Fruit and barrel intertwine on the palate. It needs time, but the stuffing is all there. Best after 2024.

Matthews 2018 Cuvée Columbia Valley $34 93 points
This is a new offering from this long-time winery, a blend of 60% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Cabernet Franc. The aromas take some time to get going, with notes of cocoa powder, barrel spice, dark chocolate, cherry and whiffs of green pepper. Ripe black currant and raspberry flavors follow, bringing layering and seamlessness. It sticks around for a long time on the raspberry- and cocoa-filled finish. It is absolutely delicious. Editor’s Choice

Mercer 2017 Malbec Horse Heaven Hills $25 89 points
The aromas are reserved, with notes of plum and dried herbs. Plump but still light, appealing fruit flavors follow, dipping in the middle. Pleasingly bright acidity accent it.

Mercer 2016 Petit Verdot Horse Heaven Hills $32 89 points
The aromas offer notes of garden herbs, blue fruit, crushed plum, orange, flowers and vanilla, with the vanilla and plum flavors being balance and polish. The variety’s acidity keeps it all in focus, though the oak gets a bit out front.

Mercer 2017 Merlot Horse Heaven Hills $25 88 points
Brooding dark raspberry aromas lead to somewhat streamlined-seeming blueberry and plum flavors. The vintage’s acidity supports it all.

Mercer 2017 Reserve Syrah Horse Heaven Hills $42 88 points
Aromas of forest floor, brown stem, red apple and flower are followed by light, graceful fruit flavors. It’s part intrigue, part delivery, with good things happening, but the concentration seems light.

Mercer Bros. 2019 Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills $17 89 points
Pear, apple and candlewax aromas lead to light but creamy feeling peach flavors. There’s a mouthwatering aspect to it that ups the interest.

Mercer Bros. 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills $20 89 points
Blueberry and plum aromas announce themselves. Ripe, plush flavors follow. Herb notes linger on the finish. There’s a pleasing sense of balance throughout. It’s hard to pin down as Cabernet, but who cares?

Mercer Bros. 2018 Edge of Heaven Red Blend Horse Heaven Hills $20 87 points
Plum, medicine and asphalt aromas are followed by plump, fleshy blue fruit, green herb and smoke flavors that paint around the edges. The medicinal notes provide some distraction.

Next 2017 Red Blend Columbia Valley $13 85 points
Aromas of smoke and Vicks VapoRub lead to flavors that are plump around the edges and lighter in the middle.

Old Tavern Farm 2018 Big Barn Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain $24 88 points
This wine doesn’t seem to have fully settled in initially, with notes of asphalt, spice, cedar, cigar box and cherry cordial. Full-bodied fruit flavors follow, with all of the structure that this appellation brings. Time will tell if the aromas and palate sync up.

Palencia 2016 El Viñador Petit Verdot Wahluke Slope $50 88 points
The aromas are bright, with notes of raspberry, cranberry and green herbs. The palate brings a whole lot of acidity and tannin. A warm, chocolate-filled finish caps it off.

Pambrun 2017 Chrysologue Walla Walla Valley $65 90 points
Cabernet Sauvignon makes up three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Merlot (17%) and Cabernet Franc. Reductive aromas dominate initially, with notes of asphalt and wet tar followed by plum, blue fruits and berries. The palate shows flashy fruit flavors and acidity of the vintage. Time should bring it all together. The stuffing is there.

Pambrun 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley $70 90 points
The oak leads on the aromas initially, with notes of vanilla in front of cherry and raspberry. The fruit flavors are bunched up right now, extending over time. It’s a light, pretty offering of this variety.

Pambrun 2017 Merlot Walla Walla Valley $60 88 points
Aromas of red apple skin, cream, cherry cordial and raspberry gummy lead to center focused fruit flavors. It wants more around the edges.

Pamplin 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $50 88 points
This is 100% varietal. The aromas are wound up tight, and the palate is grainy and gritty right now. The concentration seems light, as with many wines from this vintage, but the acidity is impressive. Some time should bring it all together. Best after 2025.

Rickshaw 2018 Red Blend Washington $16 90 points
This is a blend of 30% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 17% Sangiovese, 14% Cabernet Franc and 11% Syrah. The aromas pop in notes of raspberry, blueberry and spice. The palate shows pleasing intensity and sophistication. Editor’s Choice

Rocky Pond 2017 La Domestique Reserve Double D Vineyard Columbia Valley $45 92 points
Merlot comprises over three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Appealing aromas of dried herbs, cherry and raspberry lead to a zippy currant flavor that fleshes out over time. The acidity is tart and bright, lifting it all up. Best after 2023. Cellar Selection

Rocky Pond 2017 Reserve Double D Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $59 91 points
This wine comes from a newer site in the Rocky Reach region, with the grapes grown on granite bedrock soils—a rarity for Washington. It has classic Cabernet aromas of cherry, crushed herbs, currant, cedar and olive. The palate is medium-plus in feel, soft, reserved and understated. Bright acidity provides support. Give it some additional time in the cellar. Editor’s Choice

Rocky Pond 2019 Double D Vineyard Semillon Columbia Valley $24 90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the young Rocky Reach region south of Chelan. Reticent pear aromas lead to textured stone fruit flavors. Lovely acidity stretches throughout.

Rocky Pond 2019 Double D Vineyard Roussanne-Marsanne Columbia Valley $24 89 points
Fruit for this wine comes from the Rocky Reach growing region. A 50-50 blend, the aromas are light but the palate is broad feeling and textured, leading to a warm finish. There are a lot of good things happening.

Rocky Pond 2019 Clos CheValle Vineyard Gewürztraminer Lake Chelan $24 87 points
The aromas are reserved for the variety, with notes of lychee and flower. Light floral flavors follow, with the concentration not always seeming there.

Saviah 2018 The Funk Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley $65 92 points
This Syrah is cofermented with 4% Viognier, and its aromas are bright, with notes of fresh orange zest, black olive, medicine, smoked meat and firepit. Soft, plush, velvety flavors follow. Orange rind notes linger on the finish. It has a juicy feel that ups the interest. The Viognier plays a prominent role at present.

Saviah 2018 Une Vallée Walla Walla Valley $40 91 points
This is 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc. With fruit coming from McClellan, Pepper Bridge, Anna Marie and Eritage vineyards, the aromas bring notes of plum, blue fruit, earth, dried and fresh herbs and flowers. Soft, lighter-styled coffee, cherry and chocolate flavors follow. It’s all about grace.

Saviah 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley $25 91 points
This wine comes from the recently approved Royal Slope appellation, and the aromas show pleasing subtlety, with notes of pear, crayon and wet stone. The lightly creamy stone fruit flavors are light on their feet, bringing the bright acidity typical of the vintage. The balance impresses, and it lingers on the finish. Editor’s Choice

Saviah 2019 Estate Vineyard Viognier Walla Walla Valley $30 91 points
Very varietal aromas of rich peach, pear, spice and flower are followed by fuller-feeling but still restrained stone fruit flavors. The concrete egg fermenting shows, giving the wine pleasing mineral accents. It brings intriguing acidity for the variety. A long finish keeps the interest up. Editor’s Choice

Saviah 2018 The Stones Speak Estate Syrah Walla Walla Valley $55 91 points
This wine is a classic expression of Rocks District fruit, with notes of green olive tapenade, chopped parsley, flower, orange rind, soot and, of course, a whiff of funk. Broad, expansive medicine and olive flavors follow, showing intensity and depth.

Saviah 2018 Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley $45 90 points
The aromas are reserved, with notes of green olive, cigar box, medicine and firepit. Sleek plum and savory flavors follow. It’s pleasing, but all seems quite pulled back.

Saviah 2017 Tempranillo Walla Walla Valley $38 90 points
Fruit for this wine comes from Funk, Dugger Creek and Watermill Estate vineyards. The aromas bring notes of funk, roasted coffee bean, fresh and dried tobacco and ember. A savory, graceful, dried tobacco-filled palate follows. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery.

Saviah 2017 Big Sky Cuvée Columbia Valley $40 90 points
Merlot makes up half of this wine, Cabernet Sauvignon a quarter, and the rest Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The aromas intrigue, with notes of wet rock, cigar box, dark chocolate and cherry. The flavors bring pleasing restraint but also plushness—a winning combination. Medicinal notes linger on the finish.

Saviah 2017 Lewis Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley $50 89 points
Firepit and Kalamata olive aromas are followed by pillowy soft smoke and medicine flavors. It brings plenty of goodness, but the medicinal notes distract.

Saviah 2018 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $32 89 points
The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of ember, funk, plum and coffee. With fruit coming from Watermill, Funk, Lewis and Anna Marie vineyards, the palate is more elegantly styled but still flavorful. It’s a very pulled back, pretty expression of the variety.

Stemilt Creek NV Earthen Red Blend Columbia Valley $15 88 points
Cocoa, green pepper and baking spice aromas are followed by broad, seamless flavors of green pepper, cherry and a bit of smoke. Pleasing acidity enlivens it.

Stemilt Creek NV Boss Lady Adelaide AJ Mathison Estate Grown Syrah Columbia Valley $28 88 points
The aromas offer notes of cocoa, sweet barrel spice and red fruit. The palate is light but flavorful, tapering toward the blue fruit-filled finish. There’s less concentration than the listed abv would suggest.

Stemilt Creek 2017 Successive Generations Estate Grown Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley $30 86 points
The aromas offer notes of dried tobacco, dried orange rind, cherry and barrel spice. Creamy-feeling, lightly smoky flavors follow. It all seems a bit dried out.

Stemilt Creek 2017 Thomas Cycle Mathison Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $28 85 points
Braised green pepper and black cherry aromas are followed by soft fruit flavors that bring a sense of elegance. Dried orange rind notes linger on the finish. The fruit seems quite underripe.

The Soldier 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $22 90 points
The aromas are fruit-forward in notes of plum and black currant accented by baking spice. The flavors are ripe and luscious. Pleasing acidity ties it all together.

Valdemar 2018 Blue Mountain Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75 94 points
This is a flat-out beautiful expression of valley Syrah. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of blueberry, plum and herb. The palate brings weight and volume but never gets bogged down, showing plenty of deftness and dexterity. The balance throughout is captivating as is the exceptionally lengthy, flavorful finish, kicking it up a notch. Gorgeous stuff. It wins on grace, balance and sneaky intensity rather than brawn. Editor’s Choice

Valdemar 2018 DuBrul Vineyard Chardonnay Yakima Valley $50 94 points
Winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla has consistently made some of Washington’s most delicious Chardonnay, and here at her new assignment working with some of the state’s best fruit, she takes it to another level. It’s all about subtlety, with aromas of apple, pear, spice and whiffs of pineapple. The palate is textured and flavorful, but it’s the balance that captivates. Structure, balance, texture, acidity: This wine has it all—a true accomplishment for this winemaker and for the state. Editor’s Choice

Valdemar 2018 Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah Walla Walla Valley $75 93 points
Rocks District wines are sometimes known for their brawn and outrageousness. This example shows the area is plenty capable of making wines focused on grace and finesse, too. The aromas are brooding, with notes of moist earth, blue fruits, plum and orange rind. The palate is rich in flavor and silky soft in feel, loaded with blue fruit flavors. The balance is exquisite and the length impressive. It’s a very pretty, classy offering from the area but with no shortage of hedonism. Editor’s Choice

Valdemar 2018 Syrah Walla Walla Valley $65 93 points
Almost all of the fruit for this wine comes from the LeFore Vineyard. Aromas of earth, red plum, orange rind, huckleberry and spice lead to full-feeling, palate-coating flavors. It shows a lot of layering, detail, depth, finesse and freshness. The balance is impeccable. Editor’s Choice

Valdemar 2019 Component Trial 019-A Sagemoor Vineyards Roussanne Columbia Valley $40 93 points
This is a classic example of the variety, with notes of pear, white peach, toast and savory spice. The palate is flavorful, broad and textured. The acidity balance is exquisite. It’s a standout. Editor’s Choice

Woodward Canyon 2018 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $99 93 points
Dark chocolate, barrel spice, vanilla, cherry and licorice aromas are followed by luscious black fruit flavors. There’s plenty of richness, texture and seamlessness along with a whole lot of structure. A long finish caps it off. It’s all about hedonism, but still possesses impressive balance, a classically Woodward styled wine. The oak is forward at present. Give it some time in the cellar or decant. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection

Woodward Canyon 2018 Estate Barbera Walla Walla Valley $32 92 points
This variety is an extreme rarity in the state let alone in the valley, though this producer has been making it for more than 20 years. The fruit-forward notes of cherry, dark raspberry and bramble capture the attention. Bright, tart, acidity-driven flavors deliver. It’s thoroughly delightful. Pizza anyone? Editor’s Choice

Woodward Canyon 2018 Artist Series #27 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington $59 90 points
This wine isn’t ready to reveal itself right now, with locked up aromas of chocolate, cocoa, cherry and spice. Coffee and cherry flavors follow. Give it some additional time in the cellar to blossom.