Sean Sullivan - Washington Wine Report

How to Return a Corked Bottle of Wine (and Why You Should)

2012-01-26T00:01:00.000-08:00

January's Virtual Tasting is tonight from 7-8pm Pacific. Read about how to participate here.

The incidence of cork taint has been variously reported to be as little as 0.7% and as much as 10%. However, for most retailers, distributors, and wineries, it often appears to be a non-issue for one simple reason. Consumers rarely return corked bottles of wine. Here I discuss what steps consumers should take when they discover a corked wine and why returning the bottle is important to help reduce the incidence of cork taint.

First let me say that when I am referring to ‘corked’ wines, I am talking exclusively about bottles affected by 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA) or bottles that appear as such.

People often ask me how cork taint presents itself. TCA can affect both aromas and flavors with a fairly wide spectrum of presentations. Aromatically, wines affected by TCA often have a moldy, musty smell that may be anywhere from very prominent to extremely faint or even undetectable. I often liken it to the smell of a very old, dirty dish cloth, which a startling number of people seem to be familiar with! In some cases the fruit aromas may be muted as well.

This same musty aroma may be detectable on the palate, especially on the back end. The wine may also seem stripped of its flavor. However, sometimes the flavors may seem largely unaffected and what you noticed aromatically may not be detectable or visa versa.

The taint itself is most frequently coming directly from the cork and leeching into the wine. The aroma is therefore often quite noticeable on the cork itself, which is why some smell the cork after opening a bottle of wine (NB: Historically, people also used to inspect corks at restaurants to make sure the wine in the bottle was what it was supposed to be, and inspecting cork integrity is always a good idea).

Once you’ve identified a corked bottle of wine, what you do next depends on the circumstances.

If you bought the wine from a retailer and you still have the receipt, bring the bottle back to the retailer with unconsumed wine still in the bottle. This shouldn’t be too hard given that the vast majority of wine is consumed within twenty-four hours of purchase. Note that it is important both to bring back the bottle and the unconsumed wine because it determines who is going to pay for the corked wine as explained below.

If you bought the wine directly from a winery, you don’t have a receipt, and/or a large amount of time has passed since you purchased the wine, contact the winery directly, explain the situation, and ask for a replacement bottle. Of course, the winery may not be able to replace the wine with the exact same vintage. Many will provide the current vintage instead.

Why is it important to actually have the bottle in hand with unconsumed wine when you return a corked bottle to a retailer? First, this ensures integrity at every step of the process in returning the corked bottle. Second, it allows the proper party to shoulder the expense, which in all cases should be the winery. Here’s what happens after you return a corked bottle of wine.

Once you return the bottle, what the retailer does next is contact the distributor to get a replacement bottle, perhaps even giving the distributor the actual bottle of corked wine. The distributor then either gets a replacement bottle from the winery, in which case the winery pays for the corked wine, or, for the sake of convenience, does not, in which case the distributor pays for the corked wine.

However, if you bring an empty or almost empty bottle of wine bottle back to a retailer and say that the bottle was corked, the retailer has to pay for the corked bottle! They can’t contact the distributor without any evidence of a corked wine! Doing so could obviously lead to shenanigans (“Remember that bottle of 2005 Lafite you brought us? A customer returned an empty bottle and said it was corked. Can I have another?”)

As consumers, we rarely return corked bottles of wine for a number of reasons. We often paid for the bottle some time ago, so the money is long spent. We wanted that exact bottle of wine at that particular moment, so the moment is lost. It’s a hassle to return a bottle of wine! For some, it’s even intimidating (“You say it’s corked? Doesn’t seem like it to me!”). And of course, sometimes people don’t know the wine is corked. They just think it’s bad wine.

However, returning corked wines and asking for a replacement bottle is important because it makes all parties aware of the problem and hopefully reduces the chances of it happening again. Many things can be done to reduce or eliminate cork taint, but unless there is an obvious problem, why bother? As consumers, we are actually part of the problem by remaining silent.

So here’s my New Year’s resolution - and I encourage you to make it yours as well. I’m going to return bottles or contact wineries about each of my corked wines this year. As some will recall, last year I decided to count how many corked bottles of wine I had throughout the year as well as the overall incidence. The final tally was 45 corked bottles in 2011, 3% of wines sampled. Interestingly, to some people I spoke with, 3% seemed unacceptably high. To others, it seemed pleasantly low, and, of course, to others, it seemed just right.

What level of cork taint is acceptable is a question for another day. Suffice to say though that if consumers don't let wineries know a bottle of wine was corked, the next bottle is just as likely to be tainted as the one that came before it.

Five Wines Under $15 January 2012

2012-01-25T00:01:00.000-08:00

January's Virtual Tasting is Thursday January 26th from 7-8pm Pacific. Read about how to participate here.

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

We start off today with three wines from Forgeron Cellars' Blacksmith label. The goal of Blacksmith is to focus on wines that provide both quality and value. In this, winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla surely succeeds.

I have written (extensively) in the past that it is somewhat difficult to find high quality Washington Syrah in the value range. This is in contrast to Cabernet and Merlot where such bottles are fairly abundant.

The 2009 Blacksmith Syrah bucks this trend and is nothing short of a knockout at $15. This wine is unequivocally Syrah, hitting some of the grape’s highlights with dark fruit, chocolate, and floral notes. Listed at 14.4% alcohol, it is a restrained bottle that had me at each sip saying, out loud, “Wow this is a nice bottle of wine.” Who could ask for anything more at $15?

I checked out the 2009 Gordon Brothers Chardonnay after a strong review from friend and fellow wine writer Paul Gregutt in the Seattle Times. Let me start by saying that I often approach inexpensive Chardonnay with more than a little trepidation, because when Chardonnay is bad, it can be downright awful. I approach wines described as “buttery” all the much more so.

The 2009 Gordon Brothers Chardonnay delivers. While it starts out a bit too strong on the toasty spices and butter, it settles down after being open for a hour or so and delivers enjoyment well above its price point. People who only like their Chardonnays unoaked - ‘naked’ in the latest lingo - should look elsewhere. However, people who enjoy a rich, full, buttery style – and even some who do not – will find much to enjoy here.

Finally we have the Columbia Crest 2010 Moscato. Moscato sales have been soaring of late, increasing 73% this year through last September according to Gomberg-Fredrickson. These wines are proving to be particularly popular with the Millennial set, with some referring to them as a gateway drug to wine drinking.

Why are these wines so popular? It’s this simple. They are incredibly aromatic, full of fruit flavors, and are often semi-sweet. These wines aren’t going to necessarily overwhelm you with complexity, but that’s not the point.

While Columbia Crest’s 2010 offering doesn’t completely come off, it remains an extremely enjoyable wine that is guaranteed to appeal to wine newbies and many others. Some sophisticated types might say, “Well I’m not quite sure I like this.” And then pour another glass. And another.

If you have Washington favorites $15 and under, leave a comment below, and I'll check them out. Read previous Five Wines Under $15 here.

Forgeron Cellars Blacksmith Syrah Columbia Valley 2009 $15
(Excellent) A moderately aromatic wine with floral notes, dark fruit, and bittersweet chocolate. The palate is soft and gauzy with dark fruit flavors. Lingers on the finish. A huge value at $15. 94% Syrah, 6% Petite Sirah. Boushey, Lewis, Marcoux, Les Collines, Ash Hollow, and Goose Ridge vineyards. Aged in French (61%) and American (39%) oak (45% new). 14.4% alcohol. 446 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Forgeron Cellars Blacksmith Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2010 $15
(Excellent) An aromatic offering of Chardonnay with toasty spices, almond butter, whiffs of tropical fruit, and tangerine. The palate is medium bodied, silky, smooth, and textured, full of citrus and spices that linger on the finish. An outstanding value at $15. 87% Chardonnay, 3% Semillon, 3% Grenache Blanc, 2% (each) Orange Muscat, Marsanne, and Viognier. Olsen, Crawford, Birch Creek, Dwelley, Boushey, and Dionysus vineyards. Aged in French oak (33% new). 233 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Forgeron Cellars Blacksmith Merlot Columbia Valley 2008 $15
(Good) A moderately aromatic wine with spice, cedar, and red currant. The palate is broad with soft tannins and silky fruit flavors. Finishes a bit tart. Boushey, Alder Ridge, Lonesome Spring Range, and Ash Hollow. Aged in French oak (30% new). 14.2% alcohol. 446 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Gordon Brothers Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $10
(Good) Medium yellow. Aromatics dominated by toast, spice, and butter overlying tropical fruit. The palate is medium-plus bodied, starting out full and then drawing back. Improves considerably after an hour or more of being open. 13.7% alcohol. 3,500 cases produced. Recommended

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Moscato Columbia Valley 2010 $12
(Good) A perfumed wine that is an aromatic tour de force with lychee, mango, mint, kiwi, and passion fruit. The palate is off dry, full of tangerine and tropical fruit flavors – almost every one you can imagine. Gets a touch watery toward the finish and wants a bit more acid to hold it together but overall a fruit filled wine that delivers a huge amount of enjoyment. 75% Muscat Canelli, 15% Morio Muskat, 10% Black Muscat. 10.5% alcohol. Recommended.

Rating System
Please note, my rating system was revised at the beginning of 2012 as follows. Read additional details here.
(Exceptional)
(Excellent)
(Good)
(Decent)
(Not recommended/Flawed)

Rating System Display

2012-01-24T00:01:00.000-08:00

As I wrote earlier this month, I have changed my rating system from a home grown, five point system to a traditional five star system. Please note that these ratings will be displayed in subsequent posts as follows:

(Exceptional)
(Excellent)
(Good)
(Decent)
(Not recommended/Flawed)

Read additional details about the rating system here.

Washington Wine Round-up January 15th-21st 2012

2012-01-23T00:01:00.000-08:00

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from January 15^th to 21^st. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the world…

Edmonton Journal writes about the Kung Fu Girl Riesling (look at that Canadian tariff!).

From around the country…

Shanken News Daily writes that Southern will buy Odom’s stake in distribution venture.

The Chicago Tribune writes about how to pair wine, with a callout to the Eroica Riesling.

From the blogosphere…

Woodinville Wine Update talks with Sherri Swingle about the 25^th anniversary of the Auction of Washington Wines.

Paul Gregutt writes about Alaska Airlines’ Take Some of Walla Walla Home with You campaign. He also writes about examining Oregon from afar and Barrister being named a “hot small brand.”

Wine Follow (welcome) writes about how to spit wine. They also write about Pandora Cellars.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Alaska Airlines deals to Walla Walla.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Airfield’s Hellcat Red Wine and Taste Washington 2012.

Woodinville Patch writes about birth year wines and verticals.

Snowshoe Magazine writes aboue White Pass and enjoying Washington wine at Sitzmark Pub.

AgInfo.net writes about the Wine Grape Growers conference. Read Part II here.

Wine Peeps writes about Rhone-style blends.

Northwest Wine Anthem writes about Efeste’s upcoming Rockin’ Sips event. They also write about Cana’s Feast.

Table Talk writes about women winemakers. They also write about best meals of 2011.

Eater Seattle writes about Ray’s 25^th Annual Retrospective on Northwest Wines.

Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog writes about Washington wines at the San Francisco Wine Competition.

Sauced writes about Abeja’s 2008 Heather Hill Cabernet.

Daily Evergreen writes that 1183 leaves local stores in limbo.

From the locals…

The News Tribune writes about Chef Frank Magana returning to wine country.

OregonLive! writes about virtual wineries.

Washington Tasting Room Magazine writes about Tennis and Wine Camp returning Walla Walla.

The Olympian writes that Representative Hunt’s bill to block aspects of 1183 was to show ‘displeasure.’

The Seattle Times writes about House Bill 2426 to block aspects of 1183. They also write that a Cowlitz court will be the first to review a case to block 1183.

The Tri-City Herald writes about the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Wenatchee World writes about Stemilt Creek.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Mount Baker Vineyards.

East Oregonian writes about wineries pouring money into charitable causes.

Leftovers (posts missed from previous weeks)…

Write for Wine writes about the Ghost of 413.

Under the Grapetree writes about Seven Hills.

That’s all folks!

It’s hard to keep a good man down – Frank Magaña launches Chef Magaña Catering

2012-01-20T00:01:00.000-08:00

One of the sadder stories in Washington wine from 2011 was the closing of Kennewick’s Picazo 7 Seventeen restaurant. However, to many, it seemed unlikely that owner Chef Frank Magaña would be gone for long. Indeed, earlier this week Magaña announced the opening of Chef Magaña Catering.

The turnabout happened quickly. Magaña announced the closure of Picazo, which featured ‘local fare with a Spanish flair,’ last November. This came less than a year after the restaurant moved to Kennewick in search of additional business. Prior to this, Picazo had been located in downtown Prosser.

While sales went up at the new location, so did overhead, making the situation unsustainable. “We never wanted to leave Prosser,” Magaña later admitted.

Once they closed the restaurant, Magaña and his wife were planning to move back to the Seattle area. “We were all set to go back to the west side,” Magaña says. However, a group of local supporters implored the couple to reconsider. With a limited number of high quality restaurants and caterers, Magaña’s impact on the area had been profound.

After consulting with accountants, the couple decided to start a catering company, operating out of the Alexandria Nicole Cellars tasting room. The company will be the exclusive caterer for Alexandria Nicole and will also serve businesses throughout the Yakima and Walla Walla valleys. “We’re ready for business right now,” Magaña says.

Magaña originally started out in eastern Washington catering to wineries and other businesses. After opening Picazo 7 Seventeen, named after Magaña’s mother’s maiden name and the restaurant’s address, Magana continued to run a brisk catering business.

Indeed, this may have contributed to Picazo’s demise with Magaña telling Andy Perdue at the News Tribune, “One of the things that brought down Picazo was Chef Magaña wasn't at Chef Magaña's restaurant.” That won’t be the problem here, and catering has often appeared to be where Magaña’s passion lies.

“I’m excited,” Magaña says of opening the new business. “It’s going back to our roots."

Washington Wine Round-up January 8th-14th 2012

2012-01-19T00:01:00.000-08:00

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from January 8^th to 14^th 2012. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country (and abundance of love this week)…

Wines and Vines writes about Olympia trying to cut wine red tape.

CNN writes about the best wines to have with a grilled cheese with a callout to Washington riesling.

The Fort Wayne News Sentinel writes about Syrah as the perfect wine for winter with brief mention of Washington.

San Antonio Current writes about smart wines for 2012 with a callout to Hogue’s Columbia Valley Riesling.

The Iowa Press Citizen writes about Washington wine (Note: As writer Paul Gregutt noted on Facebook, there are a number of inaccuracies in this article).

In the Napa Valley Register, Joseph Phelps winemaker Ashley Hepworth calls Cayuse Vineyards Christophe Baron her favorite peer in the wine industry.

Wine Business.com writes about Madeline Dow joining winemaker Charles Smith in a national events and PR position.

Miami Herald writes about blends with a callout to Cadaretta’s Windthrow.

San Jose Mercury News writes about a year of discovery, with a callout to Buty’s Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadelle.

From the blogosphere…

Paul Gregutt writes about organizing a wine cellar. He also writes about wine blogging.

Northwest Wine Anthem lists Maison Bleue as a Friday find. They also write about Vinyl Wines.

Table Talk profiles Jeurgen Grieb of Treveri Cellars.

Sammamish Patch writes about Trillium Creek Winery on Key Peninsula.

Uncork Washington writes about Seven Hills Planing Mill Red. They also write about the Zero One Vintners Wild Sky Cabernet.

Through the Walla Walla Grapvine writes about Tamarack Cellars.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about upcoming events. Shona also writes about Columbia Winery offering wine education classes.

Wine Foot writes about the 2008 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Cabernet Franc. Duane also writes about the 2008 Snoqualmie Reserve Cabernet.

Lucha Vino compares a Washington and New Zealand Syrah.

Sips & The City does a 2011 recap.

Wine Peeps writes about Sagemoor Vineyards.

Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog looks back at one year in business.

Wine.com puts a spotlight on Washington wine.

MyWineSchool does a video blog on Washington reds.

From the locals…

Sammamish Review writes about local voters voting overwhelmingly for Initiative 1183.

Mercer Island Patch picks the 2008 Otis Kenyon Syrah as wine pick of the week.

The News Tribune writes about a possible attempt to block aspects of 1183. MyNorthwest.com reports that the idea was DOA shortly after being introduced.

Auburn Reporter writes that an agreement keeps liquor stores stocked until transition to private sales.

Puget Sound Business Journal writes about concern over 1183 fees for craft distilleries.

The Seattle Times reports that a bill would allow day spas to serve beer and wine.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about recent wine trends.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Jones of Washington.

That's all folks!

Old school! Recent print articles

2012-01-18T11:06:00.000-08:00

The January/February 2012 issue of Edible Seattle contains an article I wrote on EFESTĒ's Brennon Leighton. Check it out on newsstands now. See a directory of locations to find a copy here.

Enjoy!

January Virtual Tasting - 2008 Januik Red Wine Columbia Valley

2012-01-17T00:48:00.001-08:00

January's Virtual Tasting wine will be the Januik Winery Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008. This wine retails for $18 and is widely available. The tasting will take place Thursday January 26th from 7-8pm Pacific.

What you need to do to participate is:

1. Buy this month’s wine from a local retailer or from the winery.

2. Tweet your comments about the wine on Twitter between 7 and 8pm using the hashtag #januik. For those on Twitter, follow me @wawinereport.

Join us!

Plans for 2012

2012-01-16T01:00:00.000-08:00

Well folks, I’m happy to be back after a brief staycation to clear the mind, focus on some other endeavors, and plan for the year ahead. As is my custom, I want to start 2012 by discussing some things to expect on these virtual pages this year, including several significant changes. Planned changes for 2012 include:

1. A rating system revision
2. Coverage of Oregon wines
3. Addition of other writers to this space
4. A revised site design
5. Improved access to the Tasting Note Database
6. Faster turnaround on wine reviews
7. Subscription charges for wine reviews

Each of these changes is explained below.

1. Rating System Revision

As long-time readers will recall, the unconventional rating system I have used for many years is homegrown. However, as I have pointed out previously, it is really nothing but a five-star/five letter system.

To make my rating system more uniform with others out there, I will be changing the display to a traditional five star system effective immediately. Please note this does indicate any change in the way that I am rating wine. Rather it is a change in annotation.

The changes look as follows. Rating definitions are in bold. The subsequent text, as before, is intended to be irreverent.

New System	Old System	Definition (unchanged)	Rough Equivalence in a 100 Point System
*****	**	An exceptional wine. Buy it now and either tell all your friends about it or keep it very, very secret, depending on your personality and availability.	92-100
****	*	An excellent wine. Convince a friend to buy some and share it with you.	89-91
***	+	A good wine. Worth drinking. If it represents a particular value I will list it as *Recommended*.	86-88
**	.	A decent wine. Drink it if you must.	80-85
*	-	Not recommended or a flawed wine. Refuse this wine if served.	< 80

Note, this is essentially identical to the table previously shown for the rating system here.

I will also, as I have in the past, occasionally use half increments. These will replace old ratings as follows:

New System	Old System	Explanation
**** ½	/*	Excellent/Exceptional
*** ½	+/*	Good/Excellent
** ½	./+	Decent/Good

I will, of course, continue to use parenthetical annotations that show what each of these ratings means.

I considered this year, as I have in the past, changing to a 100-point system. I have used this scale elsewhere, such as for the Seattle Metropolitan magazine Top 100 lists, and I may still do so at some point (I currently rate all wines using both my system and a 100-point scale). However, at present, my intention is to continue using a 5-point system.

Note that I have posted this same information, minus the information below, in a separate post in order to link it to the ‘Rating System’ listing on the banner. This post also includes some additional information, previous posted, about how I rate wine and can be read here.

2. Coverage of Oregon

In 2012, I will begin slowly expanding my coverage into Oregon. I expect this to be a gradual process, pointillistic at first and hopefully becoming more impressionistic over time.

I am doing this partly out of personal interest, but also because I believe Washington and Oregon have very synergistic wine offerings. At present there seems to be an invisible barrier between the two states, with each area focusing largely on its own wines. Personally, I believe considering the wines of the Pacific Northwest more broadly will better serve both Washington and Oregon.

Fear not. I do not intend this to detract or distract from my coverage of Washington.

3. Addition of other writers to this space

Since 2007, almost all of the writing here has been my own. I have had occasional guest posts, such as those from Carrie Simon at Washington Wine 9. In 2012, I intend to use additional writers for topics I don’t have the time, inclination, or expertise to cover. I will, of course, remain the sole wine reviewer.

4. Revised site design

I intend to do a major overhaul of the look and feel of this site at some point later this year with the intention of making content easier to find and improving the overall design.

5. Improved access to the Tasting Note Database

One of my key goals for this year is to improve access to my Tasting Note Database. The intent will be to make it easy for people to search for wine reviews from the web and from mobile devices. If you have suggestions or things you would like to see, feel free to email me at wawinereport@gmail.com.

6. Faster turnaround on wine reviews

For the past year and a half I have carried a huge backlog of reviews, which has meant that, at times, there has been interminably long delay to get reviews published. At worst, I have been unable to publish some reviews of winery visits due to time constraints. This obviously doesn’t serve anybody well.

After spending a significant amount of time in 2011 reducing the backlog, I intend to have a faster turnaround in 2012. This should make it less likely that certain wines are unavailable by the time I get my notes up as well as provide more timely information for all concerned.

7. Subscription charges for wine reviews

I have long considered charging a subscription fee to access certain parts of the site. Personally, I have wanted to avoid this by making enough money to sustain myself through other endeavors related to wine writing but not specific to this space. While I’ve made progress in this regard, I can only continue to be partially self-funded for so long.

I therefore expect to add subscription charges later this year. The most likely form that this will take is requiring a subscription to access wine reviews on the site. All other information will most likely remain freely available.

***

Personally, I am extremely excited for 2012 and hope that you are as well. I look forward to having each of you continue to join me as we explore all that this area has to offer.

Please contact me at wawinereport@gmail.com if you have any questions about any of these changes.

Rating System

2012-01-16T00:54:00.000-08:00

All wines reviewed are rated as follows:

Rating System as of 2012	Definition	Rating System Prior to 2012	Rough Equivalence in a 100 Point System
	An exceptional wine. Buy it now and either tell all your friends about it or keep it very, very secret, depending on your personality and availability.	**	92-100
	An excellent wine. Convince a friend to buy some and share it with you.	*	89-91
	A good wine. Worth drinking. If it represents a particular value I will list it as *Recommended*.	+	86-88
	A decent wine. Drink it if you must.	.	80-85
	Not recommended or a flawed wine. Refuse this wine if served.	-	< 79

· Rating definitions are in bold. The subsequent text is intended to be irreverent. Of course, many wines I rate as ‘Decent’ are quality wines and may represent good values.

· Wines are rated irrespective of price. However, if a wine with a ‘***’ or ‘Good’ rating represents a particular value, I list it as Recommended.

· I try generally not to rate wines in half increments (e.g, ** ½ ). Rather, I rate down if a wine sits between two categories (never up). If I feel doing so greatly misrepresents the wine in some way, I will, occasionally, give a half increment rating.

· All wine reviews include tasting notes. Additionally, I try as best I can either in the tasting note or post itself to describe a winery’s style so that readers can steer towards it or away from it based on their own preferences.

· I try to rate wines as best I can regardless of my personal preferences. Wines are made in a variety of styles, some of which I personally favor and some of which I do not. However, when evaluating a wine, I try to put aside my personal preferences and ask “What is this wine trying to do? Does it do it well?” For varietal wines, I do consider whether the wine is varietally correct.

How I Taste Wine
I taste wines in a variety of settings. While reviewing all wines in the same, controlled environment would be ideal, as an independent writer it would unfortunately greatly limit the number of wines I am able to review.

For this reason, I sample and review wines in both private and public settings. Private settings are controlled environments with respect to temperature, light, stemware, and other variables. Public settings include winery visits and other settings. Of course, if I do not feel I am able to properly evaluate a wine for whatever reason, I do not include a review of the wine regardless of the setting. Information about the setting for each wine is contained in the Tasting Note Database.

Given that I taste wines in both public and private settings and that I am a one-person operation, I rarely review wines under blind conditions. If I were able to taste all of the wines I review under blind conditions, I might consider doing so. Given that I cannot, I do not.

I prefer to sample red wines between 62 and 66 degrees and white wines between 50 and 55 degrees. If there is any variation between these temperatures and the temperature I sample a wine at, I note this in my reviews.

Background on the System
For many years I used a homegrown, non-standard five point system, which is described here. I changed this to a traditional five star system at the beginning of 2012.

Over the years, I have considered moving to the 100-point system, which consumers favor. When I started Washington Wine Report, I did not use a 100-point system because I felt I had no business rating wines in this manner. As I have gained more experience, I have still resisted moving to this system.

I personally have nothing against the 100-point system and have used it in other places, such as Seattle Metropolitan. I do not use it on my blog, principally, because I prefer to provide categories that are broader and have differences that are more readily understandable to the average consumer. Is a wine not recommended, decent, good, excellent, or exceptional?

Of course, any rating system has its pluses and minuses. While at times the system I use does limit me, overall it forces me to make decisions about a wine. I find that it has worked for me. Hopefully you will find the same.

If you have any questions my rating system, please contact me at wawinereport@gmail.com.

Washington Wine Round-up January 1st to 7th 2011

2012-01-13T00:01:00.000-08:00

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from January 1st to 7th 2012. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the world…

The Manila Standard gives a year in review with a callout to Washington wine.

From around the country…

Decanter writes about new AVAs, including Naches Heights.

St. Louis Today writes about 2011’s best budget friendly wines with a callout to the Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot, Hedges CMS, and Efeste Riesling.

D Magazine writes about Waterbrook.

The Anniston Star talks about wine and the New Year’s diet with a callout to Hedges CMS.

New York Daily News writes about new AVAs with a callout to Naches Heights.

The San Francisco Chronicle writes about wine competition winners.

From the blogosphere…

Weekly Volcano writes about South Sound wine sipping.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Gramercy Cellars 2009 L’Idiot du Village. Catie also writes about Malbec’s moment in Walla Walla.

Northwest Wines writes about Tom Douglas’ favorite Washington wines.

WINO Magazine writes about El Corazon’s Cabernet Franc.

Wine Peeps gives its best of Washington wine country 2011.

Write for Wine writes about what’s been opened lately.

Nectar Tasting Room & Wine Blog writes about January events in Spokane. Josh also gives a best of 2011.

Woodinville Patch writes about 2012 wine deals.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about weddings in Woodinville.

Sips & The City writes about the upcoming Seattle Food & Wine Experience.

Northwest Wine Anthem gives a Friday find.

Lucha Vino compares Washington bubbles versus Euro bubbles.

From the locals…

Seattle Weekly writes about what to do with leftover wine.

Bellingham Herald writes about the 2011 harvest.

The News Tribune gives its top 10 wines stories of 2011.

Issaquah Press writes that local voters supported Initiative 1183.

Pacific Northwest Inlander writes about the effects of 1183 on distilleries.

Mercer Island Reporter writes about Maryhill.

Port Orchard Independent writes about the closing of Puget Sound Wine Cellar.

The Tri-City Herald writes about Northwest wines in the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Seattle Times writes about Constellation’s slumping profits.

That's all folks!

Washington Wine Round-up December 22nd to 31st 2011

2012-01-09T00:01:00.000-08:00

As promised, a brief vacation break to bring you this round-up. Regular posts will resume January 16th.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from December 22nd to 31st. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country…

The Illinois Daily Chronicle writes about Sleight of Hand.

NPR writes about government waste, with mention of the Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center.

CNN writes about under $10 wines with a callout out to Pacific Rim.

Wine Spectator writes about 10 outstanding Washington reds.

Wine Enthusiast writes about the rise of second generation winemakers with callouts to Leonetti Cellar and Quilceda Creek.

The Talequah Daily Press writes about spirits to ring in the New Year with a callout to Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Indian Wells Merlot.

Shanken News Daily talks with Wayne Chaplin of Southern Wine and Spirits about Initiative 1183 and other issues.

Wine Business.com writes about the clock ticking down on privatization in Washington.

The Toledo Blade writes about the rise of Washington wines.

Northwest Wines encourages buying direct.

From the blogosphere…

Table Talk looks back at a year of wine.

Eat, Drink, Explore writes about new wine growing regions in Washington and California.

Westchase Patch makes the 2008 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet its wine pick of the week.

Paul Gregutt looks back on his 1993 book Northwest Wines. He also writes about the year’s best Northwest wine bargains.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about January events in Woodinville.

Northwest Wine Anthem gives top 5 discoveries of 2011.

Wine Peeps writes about the Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Blancs. They also write about Owen Roe Winery.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about the 2006 Terra Blanca Oynx.

Palate Press writes about wine and chocolate.

Wine and Dine Walla Walla gives the best of the best from the 12^th Annual Wine Press NW platinum judging.

Bellevue Patch says 2012 could be a spirited year for distilleries.

Lucha Vino compares a Washington Bordeaux-style blend to one from Tuscany.

From the locals…

KIRO TV reports that the constitutionality of 1183 will be heard March 3^rd.

Seattle Weekly writes about Bartell’s new private label wine.

Seattle Magazine writes about Seattle’s Wine World.

Wenatchee World writes that a growing number of wineries are competing for dwindling dollars. They also write about Craig Mitrakul.

Writing for the Spokesman-Review, Paul Gregutt raises his glass to readers and wineries.

OregonLive.com writes about holiday visitors to wine country. They also write that Washington’s new laws are having a ripple effect.

Leftovers (posts missed from previous weeks)…

Wineguys Radio and TV write about Hestia Cellars.

Wine Foot asks whether there is such thing as too many AVAs.

That's all folks!

On Vacation - January 1st to 15th

2012-01-03T16:45:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year everybody!

As I wrote in my last post, I’m taking a short vacation the first two weeks of 2012, although I may be posting some material ‘from the vault’ during this time as well as the occasional round-up. Look for regular new postings to resume on January 16th.

Have a great start to 2012!

A look back at 2011 in Washington wine

2011-12-31T18:00:00.000-08:00

Well folks, 2011 is down to its last few hours. Below is a look back at some of the things that happened this past year in Washington wine. For more on the year that was and the year to come, pick up the Winter Edition of Washington Tasting Room Magazine where I write about trends in 2011 and predictions for 2012.

***

By far the biggest news of the year was the privatization of liquor sales and changes in wine distribution laws in Washington. Stay tuned as these changes continue to take effect next year.

The Washington wine industry continued to grow in 2011 with over 740 wineries currently bonded in the state. Washington also received its 12^th federally approved viticultural area, the Naches Heights AVA.

At the beginning of the year, the USDA announced that Washington reached a record level of grape production in 2010 at 160,000 tons. The state also exceeded 40,000 acres of grapes planted. 2011 numbers will be available in early 2012.

2011 saw a number of changes within the industry. Pacific Rim was sold, as was Betz Family Winery. Meanwhile Precept Wine Brands acquired Canoe Ridge and Sagelands. Trio Vintners also had an ownership change. E.B. Foote was sold in pieces. Additionally, Whitman Cellars was seized by the bank. The industry also saw some consolidation with Odom-Southern purchasing Seattle-based distributor Cavatappi.

The infrastructure for the state’s wine industry also continued to expand. The Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center received a federal grant. The Washington Wine Commission committed $7.4M toward a Wine Science Center at WSU.

The Walla Walla Wine Alliance hired a new director, while executive director Robin Pollard of the Washington Wine Commission announced her resignation effective at the end of the year. The Commission hopes to have a new executive director in place near the end of the first quarter.

Washington wines continued to garner attention. Quilceda Creek and Long Shadows wines were served at a White House State Dinner. Treveri Cellars’ sparkling wines were also served at State Department events.

Critically, the accolades continued from the major publications. Washington had 16 wines that received scores of 95 points or higher by critic Harvey Steiman from Wine Spectator – ‘Classic’ in the magazine’s rating scale. This is compared to 17 the previous year. For perspective, a total of 66 Washington wines have ever received a score in this range from the publication, meaning half have occurred in the last two years. This is a clear sign of the exceptional string of vintages the state saw several years back as well as the overall explosion of wineries in Washington.

At Wine Enthusiast, critic Paul Gregutt gave the 2008 Cayuse Vineyards Bionic Frog a perfect score – his second ever. Overall, Wine Enthusiast gave 19 Washington wines ratings of 95 points or above.

At The Wine Advocate, critic Jay Miller gave a first perfect score to Cayuse Vineyards for the winery’s Tempranillo. Earlier this month, The Wine Advocate announced that a new critic, David Schildknecht, would be covering the Pacific Northwest starting in 2012. Stay tuned.

Meanwhile on the growing front, after a series of near perfect vintages, Washington saw its second straight cool vintage. Some fretted; other frowned; some cast stones; and others shrugged. Look for the 2011 whites to start hitting the shelves in March and April.

On the regulatory front, the Liquor Control Board clamped down on Walla Walla wineries for serving liquor to minors before having to backtrack. Yakima briefly lost its corkage free zone before getting it back. The state also started a pilot program for wine tasting at Farmer’s Markets. Meanwhile Starbucks started a pilot program for selling wine at its coffee shops.

Of course, a year of many gains also saw its losses. 2011 saw the passing of long time wine writer Bob Woehler. Glen Coogan, vice president of Northwest Operations for Ascentia Wine Estates, also passed away.

That’s all from me for 2011. I want to thank everyone for reading Washington Wine Report this year. I am sincerely grateful.

I’ll be taking a short vacation the first two weeks of 2011, although I may be posting some material ‘from the vault’ during this time as well as the occasional round-up. Look for regular new postings to resume on January 16th.

Here’s wishing everyone a Happy New Year and a great start to 2012. We’ll do it all again next year.

FIGGINS - A Family With a Storied Past and a Bright Future

2011-12-31T12:48:00.000-08:00

Saving one of the best for last. What follows is a Focus Report on FIGGINS. Download a .pdf version of this report here. Read previous Focus Reports here.

“I believe in terroir,” winemaker Chris Figgins of Figgins Family Wine Estates says. “It’s where I spend my time and energy is thinking about vineyards and trying to express the site.”

Figgins comes from one of the first families of Washington wine. In 1974, Chris’ father Gary Figgins was working as a machinist at the Continental Can Company when he decided to plant an acre of Cabernet Sauvignon by the family home in Walla Walla. In 1977, he and his wife, Nancy, founded Leonetti Cellar.

At the time, the Washington wine industry was a mere speck. Walla Walla Valley was non-existent as a wine grape growing region. But that was all about to change, with the Figgins family playing a leading role.

Leonetti Cellar produced its first vintage in 1978. The 1978 Cabernet was entered into a competition and judged by Wine & Spirits magazine "the best Cabernet produced in America." This was the first of a long string of accolades, with Leonetti now having too many high scores and Top 100 rankings to mention.

A Father’s Dream

When Chris Figgins started college at Washington State University, he intended to study architecture and engineering. Despite the fact that the family had been running Leonetti Cellar for many years, Figgins hadn’t expressed much interest in drinking wine. Suddenly in college he found himself captivated by it. What changed? “I ran out of beer!” Figgins says with a laugh.

One day as he was thinking about a career in architecture, he had an epiphany. “If I do this, I’m going to spend my life under fluorescent lights by a computer,” he thought. Figgins, who had worked on farms, fields, and vineyards growing up, had a different idea. “I wanted to grow stuff,” he said.

Figgins made a phone call to his father. “I said to him, ‘What if I change my major to horticulture and we plant our own vineyards?’” he recalls. His father’s response was supportive but neutral, wanting to let his child make his own decision. His mother later told him that Gary Figgins cried that night when he got off the phone. It would be one of the happiest days of his life.

Chris Figgins’ first full vintage at Leonetti was 1996. Since that time the winery has transitioned to using exclusively estate fruit from the Walla Walla Valley for its wines. By 2001, Chris Figgins had assumed head winemaking responsibilities from his father.

A Son’s Dream

Though he had fulfilled his wish to move the Leonetti wines to estate vineyards, Chris Figgins had another dream – to make one wine from a single, estate vineyard. As a terroirist, the idea of expressing a specific site through a bottle of wine had tremendous appeal. “If I could start from scratch, I’d make all of our wines (at Leonetti) single vineyard wines,” Figgins says. Without this option, he began to explore other possibilities.

At first, Figgins thought about trying to make a single vineyard wine under the Leonetti label. The winery had made single vineyard wines from Seven Hills Vineyard in the past. However, Figgins felt that it didn’t quite fit with what Leonetti was currently doing. Rather, he felt the project would have to be its own winery.

Figgins says it took his parents some time to come around to the idea of starting a separate winery dedicated to a single vineyard, with the concern being that it might distract from the Leonetti brand. But the concern was about more than the brand. “I am their retirement plan!” Figgins says laughing. Once his parents’ approval was in place, there was, however, another pressing matter – finding the right site.

A Special Site

Talking with Chris Figgins, he exudes enthusiasm and knowledge about soil and vineyard science. It is clearly not just his profession but also his passion.

Figgins first came upon what is now FIGGINS Vineyard while looking for property to build a house. He got a call from a family friend who was selling off parcels of land after the passing of his father. Intriguingly, the land was a half-mile from Leonetti’s Mill Creek Upland Vineyard, at a slightly higher elevation.

The day before Thanksgiving in 2003, Chris met with his friend, who threw out a price. They shook on it. Figgins closed on the property within a week. Figgins says of the site, “When we saw this piece of land, we knew it was special.”

While the decision to purchase the land was made quickly, the process of establishing the vineyard was long and laborious. First Figgins had to purchase water rights to another piece of land and transfer it to the site, taking several years. Then the site had to be prepared for planting.

The FIGGINS Vineyard property was originally a wheat field. Figgins started by ripping the land four feet deep. He created a series of compost teas, which he brewed at Leonetti, to help restore the soil from years of wheat farming. Next came planting the vineyard.

To do this, Figgins used multiple different spacings depending on the location and varietal, angling the vineyard slightly southwest. A double cordon system was used to increase plant density, shoot density, and plant population. Figgins also used the system to open up light and airflow.

“I’m a big proponent of balance in terms of spacing,” Figgins says. “You want it to be as tight as you can get and still be in balance and no tighter.”

The vineyard is physically beautiful. The nearby hills contain some of the last wooded areas in upper Mill Creek. Figgins says that long ago, peopled used the area’s trees for target practice. The buckshot in the trees subsequently stopped them from being logged.

The rows of the vineyard have limestone posts brought in from Kansas, a tribute to the Figgins family’s roots there. There is a well house made of stone that came from a root cellar in Milton-Freewater. The building bears a plaque with a quote from Byron, “Till taught by pain, men know not water’s worth.” Figgins explains the meaning by quoting Mark Twain saying, “Whiskey is for drinking; water is for fighting over.”

Establishing Biodiversity

In creating the vineyard, Figgins put a premium on establishing biodiversity. Figgins has been at the forefront of sustainable winegrowing practices in Washington through his work with Vinea, a Walla Walla Valley organization dedicated to sustainability.

A variety of species were planted throughout the vineyard, with native plants, such as lupin and native roses, used as much as possible. Walking through the vineyard, it is resplendent with life. There are butterflies, flowers, bushes, and honeybees literally everywhere.

“We sacrificed rows and acreage to build in biodiversity,” Figgins explains. He says the goal is to keep the plants in the vineyard in a continual bloom. With pollen in the vineyard, predatory pests stay all year long.

32 acres are currently planted to Cabernet, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. The vines were planted on their own rootstock, with the first plantings in 2005. Figgins decided not to use the vineyard’s initial fruit in 2007. “Knowing I was going for a high end project, it wasn’t time,” he says, adding, “You can make great wine on young vines. It’s just more difficult.”

Due to the vineyard’s high elevation, 1,500 to 1,700 feet, it sees a 35-40 degree diurnal shift. Figgins says that, like clockwork, cold air flows down the canyons of Mill Creek each night. This helps preserve the acidity in the grapes. The vineyard has deep silt loam and receives approximately twenty-two inches of rainfall annually.

The Inaugural Release

The label design of the 2008 FIGGINS Estate Red Wine, designed by the Seattle firm Boxwood, is eye catching, sleek, and minimalistic. The label itself is white. ‘FIGGINS Walla Walla Valley’ is written in a plain font on the center of the bottle. ‘Estate Red Wine Grown and Vinified by the Figgins Family’ is in the lower part of the label. Off right is an image of a fig painted by local artist Todd Telander. The side of the label reads, “FIGGINS – ‘the son of FIG’ 13^th C Great Britain Surname.” Beneath this is information about the vineyard’s elevation and aspect.

The 2008 wine saw 22 months in barrel and one year in bottle prior to release. Figgins made approximately 900 cases in 2008 with the intent of growing the winery slowly to about 4,000 over the next decade or so.

The inaugural FIGGINS Estate Red Wine is arresting, full of earth, floral notes, and fruit aromas and flavors. The wine is simultaneously rich, structured, and light on its feet. As with the recent releases at Leonetti Cellar, this wine is very much about elegance and vineyard expression and is far from a fruit and barrel wine. It is among the more compelling wines to be released in 2011.

As the industry continues to grow and expand at an incredible rate, it is impossible not to reflect on the enormous impact the Figgins family has had on the Washington wine industry over the last thirty-five years. Tasting this wine, it seems clear that the family has only begun to leave its mark.

FIGGINS Estate Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $85
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An almost endless list of aromas including scorched earth, red and black fruit, bittersweet chocolate, floral notes, and licorice. Wound up tightly initially, the palate is dense and rich with fruit and earth flavors while remaining incredibly elegant. A seemingly endless finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Merlot. Aged 22 months in French oak (70% new). 14.3% alcohol.

Walla Walla Valley Report 2011 Part IV

2011-12-30T15:53:00.000-08:00

Below is Part IV of a report from the Walla Walla Valley including wines from L’Ecole No 41, Woodward Canyon Winery, Abeja, K Vintners, Tero Estates, and Walla Walla Vintners. Read Part I here, Part II here, and Part III here.

L’Ecole No 41

It can sometimes be difficult for established wineries to garner the attention that the upstarts do. But there’s nothing like reintroducing yourself to your customers to change that.

2011 was a good year for L’Ecole No 41, one of Walla Walla Valley’s oldest and most highly regarded wineries. It included a successful label change, website redesign, and overall rebranding. The results have helped energize sales nationally and bring the winery additional attention. To cap things off, L’Ecole landed a spot on Wine Spectator’s annual top 100 list – at No 41 no less.

The reason for L’Ecole’s continued success is, of course, it’s commitment to continually producing high quality wines. Tasting through the lineup, the consistency in quality is amazing, as is the quality to price ratio on the wines.

The current releases include some fun wrinkles. Note that, with the rebranding, the Recess Red is gone and is now listed as Red Wine. “I figured that if Quilceda Creek had a Red Wine, we could too,” managing winemaker and co-owner Marty Clubb says jokingly. One of the standouts in the current releases is the 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet. The fruit came from the 20^th leaf from this section of the vineyard, and this 100% Cabernet is a compelling expression of valley fruit.

In other news, the Perigee Red Wine has all five Bordeaux varietals for the first time. Finally, the winery produced a wine called L’Erudite, with all proceeds going to Whitman College. This Bordeaux style blend is half from Seven Hills and half from Pepper Bridge and is a fascinating comparison to the winery’s single vineyard bottlings from these sites. “We wanted it to be a really special wine but be uniquely different,” Clubb says. As usual, they have more than succeeded.

L’Ecole No 41 Luminesce Estate White Wine Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2010 $19
Rating: + (Good) An aromatically appealing wine with apricot, light barrel spices, and a touch of citrus. The palate is rounded and creamy with a textured feel and bright acidity leading to a drawn out finish. 67% Semillon, 33% Sauvignon Blanc. 14.5% alcohol. 850 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2010 $19
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Lightly aromatic with white apple and speckled oak notes. Light bodied but spreads out across the palate with a crisp, clean feel full of apple flavors. 100% Chardonnay. Schmitt and Evergreen vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. 4,650 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) A jumble of black and blue fruit with toasty spice. The palate is full of tart fruit flavors with grippy tannins. A high QPR wine. 55% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Syrah, 5% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Aged 18 months in French and American oak. 4,200 cases produced. Recommended

L’Ecole No 41 Merlot Columbia Valley 2008 $24
Rating: + (Good) Very pretty aromas of brambly red fruit, a toasty top note, and light chocolate with the oak stealing a bit of the show at times. The palate is tart and puckering. 82% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec. Aged 18 months in oak (30% new). 14.5% alcohol. 4,400 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Estate Merlot Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically fascinating wine with earth, high toned red fruit, and chocolate. The palate is simultaneously rich and understated with focused fruit flavors and a drawn out finish. A persistent earth component makes for a mesmerizing wine. 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Aged 18 months in French oak (40% new). 14.5% alcohol. 1,100 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $29
Rating: * (Excellent) Very pretty high toned herbal notes along with black cherry and licorice on an aromatically compelling wine. The palate is delicious and fruit filled, loaded with puckering, pure cherry flavors and chalky tannins. An huge value. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bacchus, Dionysus, Stone Tree, Weinbau, Alder Ridge, Mirage, Candy Mountain, Klipsun, Pepper Bridge, and Seven Hills. Aged 22 months in oak (33% new). 14.5% alcohol. 4,600 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An earthy wine full of ripe black cherries, toast, spice box, and high toned herbal notes. The palate is elegant and seductive with soft fruit flavors and grainy tannins. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 22 months in French oak (50% new). 14.5% alcohol. 188 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

L’Ecole No 41 Perigee Red Wine Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $49
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) An aromatic wine with spice, pepper, dark fruit, and dark chocolate. The palate is firmly structured with dry, dark, silky fruit flavors. This wine needs some time to show its best. Give at least two years. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, and 4% Petit Verdot. Aged 22 months in French oak (50% new). 14.5% alcohol. 1,000 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Apogee Red Wine Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $49
Rating: * (Excellent) A very toasty, spicy, barrel forward wine. The palate is rich with dark fruit flavors. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 8% Malbec, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Aged 22 months in French oak (50% new). 14.5% alcohol. 1,250 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 L’Erudite “The Scholar” Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A very appealing, earthy wine full of rich, focused dark fruit flavors, toast, incense, and spice box. The palate is rich and fruit filled with tart, puckering flavors and firm, grainy tannins. A gorgeous wine. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec, and 2% Petit Verdot. Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge vineyards. 300 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

L’Ecole No 41 Syrah Columbia Valley 2008 $24
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with spice, earth, and dark fruit. The palate is full of plump dark fruit flavors with silky tannins. Lingers on the finish. A hedonistic but very well balanced wine. 95% Syrah, 5% Grenache. Stone Tree, Bacchus, Candy Mountain, Mirage, Seven Hills, Clifton, and Alder Ridge. Aged 18 months in oak. 15.0% alcohol. 2,250 cases produced.

L’Ecole No 41 Estate Syrah Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $36
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Leaps up from the glass with wild blueberries, game, and mineral notes. The fruit flavors are supple and refined but with a real richness with a great deal of complexity. Give 6 months. 100% Syrah. Aged 18 months in oak (40% new). 15.0% alcohol. 1,210 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Winery

Woodward Canyon Winery is one of Walla Walla Valley’s graybeards. The winery was founded in 1981 by Rick Small and Darcey Fugman-Small. Thirty years later, after helping put Washington state and Walla Walla Valley on the map, Woodward Canyon keeps cranking out quality wines. Throughout it all, the winery is still willing to experiment, such as adding a sprinkle of Syrah and Mourvedre to their 2009 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Why? Simply to make it a better wine. Purists be damned!

While the oak gets a bit too much of a spotlight on some of the wines sampled below, Woodward Canyon remains one of Washington’s finest with a track record few can match.

Woodward Canyon Winery Chardonnay Washington State 2010 $44
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromatically arresting with spice, marzipan, and grass. The palate is textured, speckled with oak flavors. Lingers on the finish. 100% Chardonnay. Woodward Canyon Estate and Celilo vineyards. Fermented and aged in French Burgundy barrels (20% new). 14.5% alcohol. 454 cases produced. Reviewed November 18, 2011

Woodward Canyon Winery Estate Sauvignon Blanc Walla Walla Valley 2010 $26
Rating: * (Excellent) Lightly aromatic with citrus, lime zest, mineral, and gooseberry. The palate is full with great intensity and depth of flavors and bright acidity. A beautiful wine. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fermented and aged in stainless steel and neutral oak. 14.1% alcohol. 201 cases produced. Reviewed November 18, 2011

Woodward Canyon Winery Artist Series #17 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State 2008 $49
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of vanilla, butterscotch, wood spice, herbal notes, and dark fruit. The palate is dense and rich, full of dark fruit flavors with oak accents. The oak is at the fore at present but may integrate with time. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, and 4% Syrah. Champoux, Spring Creek, Estate, Sagemoor, and DuBrul vineyards. 15.3% alcohol. 2,573 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Winery Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $78
Rating: * (Excellent) Medium ruby. Aromas of dark toast, black cherry, cedar, and light herbal notes. Tart and puckering on the palate with rich fruit flavors and chalky tannins. Persists on the finish. Alcohol shows through at times. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. Champoux, Sagemoor, and Woodward Canyon Estate vineyards. 16.5% alcohol. 505 cases produced.

Woodward Canyon Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2009 $44
Rating: * (Excellent) Toasty, smoky oak spices meld with spice and dark, penetrating fruit aromas. The palate has a silky, understated richness, gliding along with well-integrated tannins leading to a lingering finish. 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 7% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot, and 4% Mourvedre. 14.5% alcohol. 588 cases produced.

Abeja

Who makes better Cabernet than John Abbott at Abeja?

I have to confess that many times when I feel like having a Cabernet Sauvignon, the wines from Abeja are the first that come to mind and I find myself asking this question. Abbott has a knack for the grape and year after year makes some of Washington’s finest. It’s also worth noting that the price of Abeja’s Cabernet has remained steady for a number of years, while his peers’ prices have increased. “I want to deliver a lot of value for what we are,” Abbott says, and indeed the winery does.

Standouts from the current lineup also include a 100% Merlot from Heather Hill and Bacchus vineyards as well as a 100% Cabernet from Heather Hill. This is the first vineyard designated wine from the winery’s estate vineyard, and it’s clear tasting this bottle why it was time.

Heather Hill is located in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley AVA, east of Seven Hills Vineyard, in what I fondly refer to as ‘the occupied area’ of the valley. The vineyard was planted in 2001 and Abbott credits much of the site’s accelerated development to the sustainable farming practices used (the vineyard is certified LIVE and Salmon Safe). With the vineyard showing this well at less than ten years of age, the future is bright.

Abeja Chardonnay Washington State 2010 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) Beautifully appealing light barrel accents along with tart apple and citrus. A lively, light to medium bodied wine with a textured, creamy feel. 14.0% alcohol. 100% Chardonnay. Conner Lee, Estate. Reviewed November 18, 2011

Abeja Viognier Walla Walla Valley 2010 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Leaps up from the glass with speckled oak spices, white peaches, and marzipan. The palate is taut and textured with a bright zing of acidity. Reviewed November 18, 2011

Abeja House Red Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $21
Rating: * (Excellent) Lightly aromatic with peppery spice, black cherry, light herbal notes, and chocolate. The palate is full of fruit flavors that draw out on the finish. Consistently one of the highest quality to price ratio wines in the state. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc.

Abeja Merlot Columbia Valley 2009 $38
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Locked up tightly at present with very pretty, refined high toned red fruit, milk chocolate, and licorice. The palate is soft and fruit filled with tremendous concentration and elegance. 100% Merlot. Heather Hill and Bacchus vineyards. Aged 13 months in French and American oak (60% new). 14.6% alcohol.

Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Heather Hill Walla Walla Valley 2008 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Very pretty, high toned herbal notes along with oak spice and dark cherries on a wine to linger over. The palate is concentrated and rich while remaining silky and light on its feet with beautifully integrated tannins and an incredibly persistent finish. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 23 months in French oak (80% new). 14.8% alcohol.

Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $42
Rating: * (Excellent) A very pretty aroma profile with high toned herbal notes, spice, dark fruit, and bittersweet chocolate. The palate is rich yet refined, far from overpowering with a mixture of concentrated fruit flavors and elegance. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc. Heather Hill, Bacchus, Dionysus, Weinbau; Hedges Estate vineyards. Aged 25 months in French oak (60% new). 14.9% alcohol.

K Vintners

K Vintners continues to make some of Washington’s most compelling, uniquely styled wines. The 2009 vintage releases reviewed below are no exception.

Each year some of my favorite wines to try from K are ones that use Cayuse Vineyards fruit, such as the Roma Red Wine from En Chamberlain Vineyard. This Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blend provides an interesting contrast to Cayuse’s En Chamberlin Syrah.

Among his many offerings, winemaker Charles Smith has helped shine a light on the Wahluke Slope AVA with vineyard designated bottles such as ‘The Deal’ Syrah from Sundance Vineyard. These wines also continue to offer some of the best values in the K lineup.

Of note, Smith recently opened a tasting room in downtown Walla Walla – the worldwide headquarters – where the K Vintners and Charles Smith wines are poured. The K wines also continue to be poured at winery facility east of town.

Charles Smith Viognier Stoneridge Vineyard Columbia Valley 2009 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with apricot, creamsicle, and spice. The palate is silky and textured, broadening and expanding towards a long finish.

K Vintners Roma Red Wine En Chamberlain Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $65
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An earthy, funky, aromatically compelling wine full of olive brine, smoked meat, and savory notes. The palate is soft and silky with tremendous intensity of flavors. Lingers on the finish. 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Syrah. 14.5% alcohol. 191 cases produced.

K Vintners The Creator Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2009 $55
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Light, high toned aromas of smoked meat, berries, and mineral notes. The palate is full of winding savory flavors while remaining light on its feet. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Syrah. Cailloux and Old Stones vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. 635 cases produced.

K Vintners The Deal Syrah Sundance Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2009 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Leaps up with green olive, smoked meat, and a perfumed floral notes. The palate is textured with incredible depth and inner mouth perfume. 100% Syrah. 15.5% alcohol. 360 cases produced.

K Vintners The Beautiful Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2009 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An uber aromatic wine with abundant mineral, green olive, and ash notes. On the palate, a gorgeous, textured, richly flavorful wine with a long, drawn out finish. 95% Syrah co-fermented with 5% Viognier. 15.5% alcohol. 580 cases produced.

Tero Estates

I’ve traveled all over the United States and elsewhere and there are few places that I find as beautiful and compelling as Tero Estates. The winery is located in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley AVA (again, within the occupied area). The Blue Mountains frame part of the landscape along with rolling hills of nearby vineyards. There is a nearby grain silo. Then there is Tero Estates beautiful production facility. Something about the area just conveys a sense of beauty and serenity. And surrounding it all is, Windrow Vineyard, Tero’s estate vineyard.

Windrow is a 32 acre site with 25 acres currently under vine. It is part of the first commercial vineyard planted in the Walla Walla Valley (read more about the vineyard and winery here). While this vineyard has a long history, Tero’s focus on using this vineyard for many of its wines puts a spotlight on this unique site. Seven Hills Vineyard is literally a stone’s throw, providing an interesting contrast.

The new releases from Tero continue to impress with two beautiful estate wines. I should also note that I tasted the winery’s 2008 Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Franc in a casual setting (meaning I wasn’t taking notes) and found it to be an extremely enjoyable bottle. Alas, this wine is sadly already sold out.

Tero Estates Windrow Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $55
Rating: * (Excellent) Medium ruby. This wine is locked up very tightly at present but opens to reveal red fruit, licorice, and occasionally somewhat strong herbal notes. The palate is broad and generous, full of cherry flavors that glide along to a tart, cherry filled finish. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Malbec. 14.3% alcohol. 106 cases produced.

Tero Estates Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Windrow Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $90
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically intriguing wine with orange peel, cigar box, herbal notes, and cumin. The palate has soft but broad fruit flavors, velvety tannins, and a lingering, spice filled finish. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 66% Old Block and 34% North Plateau. 14.8% alcohol. 71 cases produced.

Walla Walla Vintners

What can I say about Walla Walla Vintners that I haven’t said before (read previous posts about the winery here)? Gordy Venneri and Myles Anderson continue to make top quality wines at prices that just don’t budge. To wit, here’s a look at the winery’s price for its Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon in recent years:

2007 $35
2005 $35
2003 $35
2001 $35
2000 $35

I think you can guess what the price of the 2008 vintage, sampled below, will be.

That’s right; across nine vintages Walla Walla Vintners has not raised its price on this wine one single dollar. In 1997 the wine cost $32 – a full fourteen years ago. People must have been scandalized when it subsequently increased three dollars.

This can only mean one of two things. Either this is benign neglect where Venneri and Anderson keep forgetting to increment the price year after year, or it is a deliberate decision. For anyone who has met the two, there can be no question which it is. This is a winery that prides itself on continually over delivering on quality for the price and always succeeds.

Now someone out there is probably thinking, “These are terrible business people. How could they do that?” However, the rate at which the winery’s first ever wine club filled up earlier this year would dispute that (the only reason Venneri and Anderson didn’t start one sooner is they didn’t want to seem gimmicky).

Walla Walla Vintners has a large and devoted following. And it’s not just because they’ve held their prices. It’s because their wines are consistently fantastic. Who could as for anything more?

Walla Walla Vintners Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2009 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Medium ruby. An aromatically appealing wine with toasty spices, chocolate, red fruit, and light herbal notes. The palate is tart and lively with a creamy, silky feel and grainy tannins. Drinking a bit young at present. Give six months. 88% Merlot. 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Chan, Dwelley, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills vineyards. 14.2% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2009 $28
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. A classically Walla Walla Vintners styled wine with char, chocolate covered cherries, and spice. The palate is soft, silky, and light with a tart finish. 85% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dwelley, Cordon Grove, Sagemoor, Weinbau, Kilian, and Spring Creek vineyards. 14.2% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Walla Walla Vintners Sangiovese Columbia Valley 2009 $24
Rating: + (Good) An aromatically appealing wine with earth, cranberry, raspberry, dusty chocolate, and roasted coffee bean. The palate has winding, tart fruit flavors. Oak gets a little heavy at times but overall a winner. 80% Sangiovese and 12% Syrah and 8% Malbec. Desert View, Dwelley Kiona, and Goose Ridge vineyards. Sample provided by winery.

Walla Walla Vintners Bello Rosso Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Medium ruby. Brightly aromatic with cranberries, chocolate, and earth. The palate is light and tart with soft tannins. 50% Sangiovese and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. Desert View, Kiona, and Sagemoor vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2008 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) A somewhat brooding but appealing wine with dark cherries, herbal notes, chocolate, spice, and earth. The palate has silky fruit flavors with well integrated tannins and a lingering finish. 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, 2% Carmenère and 2% Petit Verdot. Pepper Bridge, Dwelley, Windrow, Seven Hills and Frazier Bluff vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Seventeen Sparkling Wines to Help Ring in the New Year

2011-12-29T01:51:00.000-08:00

Seattleites, turn on Q13 News at 5:30pm today when I’ll be talking about sparkling wines.

Well folks, 2011 is fast coming to a close, so it’s time to turn our attention to sparkling wines to help ring in the New Year.

Let me start by saying that if you’re not drinking sparkling wines year round, make this a New Year’s resolution. These wines are not just for special occasions. Imagine if people thought it was only appropriate to drink Cabernet on Valentine’s Day.

Selecting sparkling wines can sometimes be challenging. What wine to buy? What style to buy? In terms of style, confusingly, wines labeled as Extra Dry are actually sweeter than Extra Brut and Brut wines. Demi-Sec is sweeter still. Bottom line, if you’re looking for something dry, wines labeled as Extra Brut or Brut are a good way to go (read more about sweetness levels of sparkling wine here).

Below is a list of seventeen sparkling wines across a variety of price points. Because a number of these wines are imported, I have also listed Seattle-area locations where I know these wines have been available in the past. Make sure to call in advance to confirm if you are interested in a specific wine. While I have listed below the larger stores in the Seattle area, any good wine retailer here or in other areas should have a large selection of quality sparkling wines. A few of my favorite local shops are McCarthy & Schiering (Note: There is a sparkling wine tasting at both locations Saturday 1-6), Pike & Western, Bin 41, Vino Verité, and 6th Avenue Wine Sellers which all have good selections.

The belle of the ball below is the 2004 Adam-Jaeger Blanc de Blancs Millesime Champagne. This is a grower Champagne, meaning the wine is made by a family that grows its own grapes. In contrast, the large Champagne houses make their wines from dozens or even hundreds of different vineyards. The Adam-Jaeger is 100% Chardonnay and is also vintage dated. It’s a knock out for this price (this is the wine that I’ll be drinking New Year’s eve).

Note that this wine is only available locally at Fat Cork, a Seattle-based importer/retailer on lower Queen Anne that deals exclusively with grower Champagne. Friend and owner Bryan Maletis is doing a great job at this new company, offering a variety of wines across a range of price points.

I was also particularly excited about the Drappier Brut Champagne Carte d'Or. Notably, this wine was originally listed at $49 but currently has a retail price around town of $35 or less. $35 for high quality Champagne? Yes please. I was also struck by the Scharffenberger Brut Excellence from California, which is a superb deal for $19.

Leave comments below on what wines you’re planning to open to celebrate the New Year or if you know of other locations where these particular wines are available. Whatever you do, I wish everyone a happy and safe start to 2012.

Adam-Jaeger Blanc de Blancs Millesime Champagne 2004 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An arresting, complex wine with pear, apple, and abundant autolytic notes. The palate is lively, stretching out from end to end with a creamy feel and bright acidity. A long, lingering finish. Among the more compelling wines I’ve had in 2011. 100% Chardonnay.
Where: Fat Cork, a grower Champagne dedicated retailer on lower Queen Anne, Seattle

Drappier Brut Champagne Carte d'Or NV $49
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An aromatic wine full of brioche and raspberries. The palate is dry with a creamy feel, full of evolving flavors of raspberries and lemon. An extended finish. Retail is listed at $49 but currently being sold around town for a non-sale price of $35, which is a steal.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, Pete’s Wine Shop, Esquin

P Louis Martin Brut Champagne Bouzy NV $35
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Aromas of fresh baked bread, strawberry, and green apple. The palate is rich and flavorful – this is a red wine drinkers Champagne if ever there were one. Capped off by a long finish.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, Pete’s Wine Shop

Colin Cuvee Alliance Champagne NV $35
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with spice, baked bread, yeast, and raspberries. The palate is dry with a creamy mouthfeel and a long, apple filled finish.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, McCarthy & Schiering

Domaine Ste. Michelle Luxe Columbia Valley 2005 $23
Rating: * (Excellent) A bright, crisp wine with pear, flint, lemon, and lime. The palate is dry and crisp with a lemon-filled finish. 100% Chardonnay. 11% alcohol. 2,184 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Duval Leroy Brut Champagne Cuvee Paris 2006 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) A classically styled Champagne with light autolytic notes, apple, and cream. The palate is light, crisp, and clean with a creamy, lingering finish. 5,000 cases produced.
Where: Wine World Warehouse

Gosset Brut Excellence Champagne NV $45
Rating: * (Excellent) A classically styled Champagne with appealing, delicate aromas of yeast, apple, and almond. The palate is silky and bone dry with fine bubbles.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, Pete’s Wine Shop, Esquin

Piper-Heidsieck Brut Cuvee Champagne NV $45
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant leesy and toasty aromas along with almond, baked bread, and citrus on an aromatically appealing wine. The palate is light, dry, crisp, and refreshing. 50,000 cases produced.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, numerous other locations

Scharffenberger Brut Excellence Mendocino California NV $19
Rating: * (Excellent) Appealing aromatics of yeast, lemon, apples, and raspberries. On the palate the wine has a weighted, textured feel with fine grained bubbles. Finishes tart and dry. A superb wine for this price point. 66% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir. 12% alcohol. 1.0% Residual Sugar. 25,000 cases produced.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, Pete’s Wine Shop, numerous other locations

Nicolas Feuillatte ‘Blue Label’ Brut Reserve Particuliere Champagne NV $36
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatic sparkling wine full of lees notes and green apple. The palate is light, crisp, and spritely with a clean, dry finish. An enjoyable Champagne at a very reasonable price point, especially when found on sale.
Where: Wine World Warehouse, Pete’s Wine Shop, Esquin

Argyle Brut Wine Willamette Valley 2007 $27
Rating: + (Good) A tart, very dry wine full of green apple and lime aromas and flavors. Finishes a bit short. 63% Chardonnay, 37% Pinot Noir. Knudsen and Lonestar vineyards. 12.5% alcohol. 1.5% Residual Sugar. 11,620 cases produced.
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $12
Rating: + (Good) Pleasing aromas of green apple, lime, and autolytic notes. The palate is just off dry with crisp citrus flavors. 12.1% alcohol. 1.19% Residual Sugar. 191,540 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Recommended Reviewed November 21, 2011
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Rose Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $12
Rating: + (Good) Pale salmon colored. A light floral note along with lemon, raspberry, and green apple. The palate is crisp, dry, and refreshing with tart with lemon and apple flavors. 100% Pinot Noir. 12% alcohol. 1.15% Residual Sugar. 20,081 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Recommended Reviewed December 6, 2011
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $12
Rating: + (Good) Very lightly aromatic with pear, apple skin, and lime notes. The palate is fresh and clean, quite dry and full of apple flavors. 11.5% alcohol. 1.05% Residual Sugar. 32,640 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Reviewed December 6, 2011
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Extra Dry Sparkling Wine Columbia Valley NV $12
Rating: + (Good) An enjoyable wine full of pear and tropical fruit notes. The sweetest of the Domaine Ste. Michelle offerings, this wine steps just one toe over the line in terms of sweetness based on its acidity. 12.0% alcohol. 2.3% Residual Sugar. 51,919 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Reviewed December 6, 2011
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose Cremant d’Alsace France NV $23
Rating: + (Good) An enjoyable, everyday sparkling wine that can frequently be found on sale in grocery stores, this wine brings sweet raspberries and strawberry aromas and flavors. The palate is dry, crisp, and light bodied. Note that I’m listing this wine as recommended as I always see it for a sub $20 price. At $23, I would pass. 100% Pinot Noir. 8,000 cases imported. Recommended
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Piper Sonoma Blanc de Blancs Select Cuvée Sonoma County NV $20
Rating: + (Good) A fairly aromatic sparkler that is absolutely loaded with green apple fruit and skin aromas and flavors. Finishes tart and slightly sweet. 95% Chardonnay, 5% others. Aged on lees at least 16 months. 30,500 cases produced.
Where: Numerous locations including some grocery stores.

Best of Washington Wine Report 2011

2011-12-28T11:11:00.000-08:00

Today as we begin to wind down the year, a look back at some of my personal favorite posts from each month this year.

January’s was a post on Washington wines in the spotlight at the Whitehouse.

February’s was a look at Woodinville’s JM Cellars.

March’s were about EFESTĒ and L’Ecole 41’s new label.

Two posts from April were looking at the Starbucks wine program and terms like super premium.

May’s were looks at Januik/Novelty Hill and Pamplin Family Winery.

June’s were the new vintage of Drew Bledsoe’s Doubleback and Senator Demint bashing the Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center.

July’s was why most winery websites stink.

August's was a look at Gorman Winery.

September’s was a piece about the new owners of Betz Family Winery.

October they were why I voted no on Initiative 1183, how to sound smart talking about wine, and a look at keg wine.

November it was an article on the 2011 harvest winding down.

December it was a rant about Robert Parker posts, a look at The Wine Advocate’s new critic covering Washington, and a post about Washington’s newest AVA.

See all of the posts from this year and previous years organized by month along the right hand side of the blog.

Fresh Sheet December 27th 2011

2011-12-27T01:08:00.000-08:00

Today’s Fresh Sheet, new and recent Washington wine releases, includes wines from Adams Bench, Kerloo Cellars, Obelisco Estate, Cave B Estate Winery, and Soos Creek Wine Cellars.

Adams Bench

High up on bucolic Hollywood Hill above the now teeming Schoolhouse District sits Adams Bench. Tim and Erica Blue founded the winery 2006, naming it after a bench where children were sent for punishment when Tim Blue was a child in Indiana.

Tim Blue says of starting the winery, “We hadn’t bottled anything. We hadn’t proved we could bottle anything.” Five years later, Tim and Erica Blue have proven a considerable amount, creating a series of consistently high quality wines that rival some of the state’s best, all with a clear house style.

The backbone of the winery is three red wines, two Cabernets and a Bordeaux-style blend. For each, the Blues picked a set of distinctive vineyard sites that include Red Willow, Two Blondes, and Stillwater Creek.

“Before we made any wine of any type we drove almost every square mile of Washington,” Tim Blue says. One of the places they visited was Champoux Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, where owner Paul Champoux directed them towards May’s Discovery Vineyard. This vineyard has since become one of the principal components of the ‘the V’ Cabernet Sauvignon.

“It’s a windy site,” Blue says of May’s Discovery, “and invariably the darkest fruit that we have.” Tasting through a four year vertical of this wine, a distinctive spice component from May’s Vineyard shows through in each wine (Note: As the 2009 was a prerelease wine I have not included my notes here). Each of the library wines was showing beautifully with each vintage building upon the one that came before and each year bringing improvements in a sure sign of the couple’s perfectionist streak.

Of note, the Blues recently completed a new underground storage facility as well as a small, dedicated tasting facility. While I was there a coyote prowled the grounds outside the winery as the sun began to set making for a perfect place to visit and enjoy some of the best that Washington has to offer.

Note: Adams Bench is open by appointment.

Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon Red Willow Yakima Valley 2008 $60
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark and alluring with dark, dried cherries, incense, and high toned herbal notes. Completely coats the palate from end to end with bold but beautifully balanced dark fruit flavors. Taught, grainy tannins squeeze the tongue before gently letting go. Carries into a long finish. A prototype of Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, once again showing Tim Blue among the state’s best. Give two-plus years or decant extensively. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. 14.9% alcohol. 100 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon ‘the V’ Columbia Valley 2008 $49
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Locked up tightly initially with dusty chocolate, dark cherries, incense, black currant, crushed dried flowers, spice, and herbal notes. The palate is bold and lush with chocolate, dark fruit flavors, and grainy tannins. Hangs on the finish. Give two-plus years or decant extensively. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon (May’s Discovery, Stillwater Creek), 15% Merlot (Artz), and 5% Cabernet Franc (Two Blondes). 14.5% alcohol. 249 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon ‘the V’ Columbia Valley 2007 $NA
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) A much more aromatically expressive wine than the 2006 vintage with baker’s chocolate, exotic spices, and high toned dark fruit. The palate is full of rich, ripe, voluptuous flavors that linger on the finish. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc.

Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon ‘the V’ Columbia Valley 2006 $NA
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark and appealing with distinctive aromas of exotic spices and an under layer of dark fruit. The palate is silky and lush with abundant chocolate and dark fruit flavors. A gorgeous wine that is drinking beautifully right now. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc.

Adams Bench The Reckoning Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $39
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark ruby. An aromatically appealing wine with red and black fruit, herbal notes, spice, and bittersweet chocolate. The palate’s graceful red and black fruit flavors belie firm, chewy tannins. 51% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc. 14.9% alcohol. 546 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars

Kerloo Cellars had its inaugural releases two years ago with a pair of stunning Syrahs. Since that time winemaker Ryan Crane has established himself as one of the most exciting new winemakers in the state.

When I first talked to Crane about his wines back in 2009, he said his goal at Kerloo Cellars was, “to craft varietally correct wines that showcase a ‘sense of place’ with respect to the vineyards in which they are grown. I want to create wines that are palate challenging across the board and hold true to the varietal.” Since then Crane has done all that and more.

In terms of showcasing a sense of place, each of the Kerloo Cellars wines states on the back label the vineyard as well as the specific block of the vineyard. In the case of one of the wines it even states, “Rows 1-6.”

Crane, who was assistant winemaker at Va Piano Vineyards before he left to focus on Kerloo full-time earlier this year, is ever experimenting, whether it’s with different vineyards, varietals, or coopers. For the 2011 vintage he purchased a concrete fermenter, which he has affectionately named ‘Lucy.’

“I just keep trying to make more unique, fun wines,” Crane says. And is he ever. As with the previous vintages, the 2009 vintage releases include two Syrahs and a Columbia Valley Tempranillo. There are also a few additions: a Walla Walla Valley Garnacha, a Columbia Valley Grenache, and a vineyard designated Malbec (Note: The latter two are wine club offerings).

Of the new additions, Kerloo’s Walla Walla Valley Garnacha is one of the more thrilling wines that I have had this year, a wine that shows tremendous delicacy and refinement from an area where Grenache is seldom grown. The Malbec, meanwhile, is one of the more compelling bottles of this varietal that I have had from Washington with incredibly pure fruit expression.

In terms of style, several things stand out about the current Kerloo wines. All are in the low 14% or below in alcohol and all are low in oak (18-25% new on the current releases). “I want the wine and the vineyard to show, not the oak. That’s just me,” Crane says.

What comes next for Kerloo Cellars? I, for one, am looking forward to finding out.

Kerloo Cellars produced 90 barrels (approximately 2,250 cases) in 2011. All wines unfined and unfiltered. Note: Kerloo Cellars tasting room in Walla Walla is closed until March except by appointment.

Kerloo Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2009 $34
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Medium ruby with a purple rim. An aromatic wine with plum, black pepper, and chocolate along with savory, mineral, and floral notes. The palate is perfumed, silky and seductive, full of umami and chocolate flavors with grainy tannins, opening up and broadening out to an exclamation point. Persists on the finish for nearly a full minute. A beautifully restrained, impressive expression of valley Syrah that holds up over days. 72% Va Piano Vineyard Block 6, 26% Les Collines Vineyard Block 30, 2% Viognier Les Collines Block 48. Aged in French oak (18% new) with 35% stems. 14.4% alcohol. 127 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars Syrah Les Collines Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $34
Rating: * (Excellent) More tightly locked up than its 2009 Walla Walla Valley counterpart at first, this wine opens over time to reveal peppery spice, chocolate, smoked meat, violets, and mineral notes. The palate is on the lighter side of medium bodied and front loaded with silky tannins and lithe fruit and meat flavors capped off by a tart, lightly herbal finish. Needed several days open to fully reveal its charms, but once it did…100% Les Collines Block 30 and 50. Aged in French oak (18% new) with 20% stems. 14.3% alcohol. 127 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars Grenache Columbia Valley 2009 $40
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Medium ruby and slightly cloudy. Very pretty, delicate aromatics of raspberries, red vines, and herbal notes. The fruit is very restrained, silky, and textured with a tart finish. 75% Alder Ridge Block 30, 25% Cockburn Ranch Block 20. Aged in French oak (25% new). 14.0% alcohol. 92 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars Garnacha Cockburn Ranch Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale ruby and slightly cloudy. Very light, delicate aromas of pine resin, vanilla, spice, and red fruit. The palate is soft, light bodied, silky and seductive with red fruit accented by vanilla flavors. Tremendous hang time on the finish. An absolutely beautiful, delicate, unique wine and a rarely seen Walla Walla Valley Grenache. 100% Grenache. Cockburn Ranch, Block 20. Aged 17 months in neutral French oak. 12.1% alcohol. 22 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars Malbec Chelle Den Mille Vineyard Yakima Valley 2009 $40
Rating: * (Excellent) Almost completely opaque with a purple rim. Lightly aromatic with plum, white pepper, and spice. The palate is soft and reserved, medium bodied with pure fruit flavors with minimal oak influence. Dips slightly in the middle before pulling back together and lingering on a tart finish. An incredibly understated wine that is one of the finest, purest examples of Washington Malbec I have had. 100% Malbec. Chelle Den Mille Vineyard Rows 1-6. Aged in French oak (25% new). 13.9% alcohol. 92 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kerloo Cellars Tempranillo Columbia Valley 2009 $34
Rating: + (Good) Lightly aromatic with spice and red fruit. The palate is tart with soft, pure flavors, dipping a bit in the middle before coming back together for a lingering finish. 53% Stone Tree Vineyard Block 17, 47% Les Collines Block 6. Aged in French and American oak (18% new). 13.9% alcohol. 184 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Obelisco Estate

Obelisco Estate, which has a tasting room in Woodinville’s Warehouse District and a vineyard on Red Mountain, had its first release two years ago with an estate Cabernet Sauvignon.

In terms of style, owner Doug Long says, “I’m looking for elegance.” Indeed while many wineries using Red Mountain fruit are going after a ripe style packed with the area’s abundant tannins, Long is looking to dial things down. Noticeably, none of the wines sampled below were above 14.2% alcohol – many were considerably below - and the tannins on all of the wines were kept in check.

All of the Obelisco wines have a distinctive, reserved style with abundant spice and fruit notes leading to a drawn out finish. The wines are also extremely well priced; it’s hard to think of too many Red Mountain wines out there coming in at $30.

For production, Long works with Hedges and Barrage Cellars. “My focus is really vineyards and producing really good fruit,” Long says, noting that the vineyard is planted at a high 2,000 vines per acre. Long is responsible for the final blends.

The Electrum is Obelisco’s flagship wine, with a the blend reflecting the vineyard plantings. “This is the wine I wanted to produce when I planted the vineyard,” Long says.

Obelisco produces 2,400 hundred cases annually.

Obelisco Estate Les Gosses Vineyard Syrah Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Medium ruby. Aromas of spice, red currant, floral notes, red fruit, and barnyard aromas. The palate is tart with soft fruit flavors and firm tannins. Hangs on the finish. A very enjoyable wine. 14.2% alcohol. 395 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Obelisco Estate Les Gosses Vineyard Syrah Red Mountain 2009 $30
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Pale ruby. An aromatically expressive wine with spice, chocolate, and red currant. The palate is silky and seductive with drawn on red fruit flavors and silky tannins. Lingers on the finish. 100% Syrah. 14.2% alcohol. 250 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Obelisco Estate Estate Grown Malbec Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. Aromas of exotic spice, incense, and spicy plum on an alluring wine. The palate is tart, medium bodied, and restrained with smooth fruit flavors and soft tannins. Dips a bit in the middle but overall a very enjoyable, extremely restrained wine that is a distinct style for Washington. Lingers on the finish. 80% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 12.9% alcohol. 300 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Obelisco Estate Estate Grown Merlot Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Leaps up from the glass with smoky oak notes, spice, incense, and red fruit. The palate is loaded with fruit flavors that draw out and lead to a long, spice filled finish. A beautiful wine that is a steal at this price point. 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah, and 5% Malbec. 13.7% alcohol. 395 cases produced.

Obelisco Estate Estate Grown Reserve Merlot Red Mountain 2009 $40
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Medium ruby. An aromatically appealing wine with spice, incense, red and black fruit. The palate is simultaneously rich and elegant with soft fruit flavors and silky tannins. A long, lingering, fruit filled finish. An outstanding, thoroughly delicious representation of Washington Merlot. 75% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec, and 5% Syrah. 258 cases produced. 13.8% alcohol.

Obelisco Estate Red Wine Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Roasted coffee bean, dark cherries, toasty oak spices, and light herbal notes. Full of soft, sinewy fruit flavors and sappy oak flavors. 70.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 4.5% Malbec. 13.7% alcohol. 1,264 cases produced. Reviewed June 23, 2011

Obelisco Estate Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2009 $40
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Medium ruby. Lightly aromatic with coffee grounds, cherries, cranberries, earth, and spice. The palate is rounded and soft with tart, cranberry fruit flavors and grainy tannins. Very pure fruit flavors on this wine and all of the current releases. A lingering finish. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17.6% alcohol, 3.6% Malbec, 0.8% Syrah. 14.1% alcohol. 755 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Obelisco Estate Estate Grown Electrum Red Mountain 2009 $65
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Medium ruby. Aromatically closed up at present, the wine opens to reveal coffee tones, dark fruit, and incense. The palate brings soft, silky, but rich fruit flavors with polished tannins and a lingering finish. Give 1-2 years. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.5% Merlot, and 2.5% Malbec. 14.1% alcohol. 300 cases produced.

Cave B Estate Winery

Cave B Estate Winery is a destination winery located in George, Washington next to the Gorge Amphitheatre. A little over two hours from Seattle, the area boasts sweeping views of the Columbia River as well as an on-site inn, spa, and restaurant.

Almost all of Cave B’s diverse offerings come from its estate vineyards either surrounding the winery or within a stone’s throw. These vineyards all lie within the to-be-approved Ancient Lakes viticultural area.

The Ancient Lakes area is one of the cooler growing regions in the state. Nearby Evergreen Vineyard has become well known for white varietals such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Gewurztraminer. Growing red grapes in the area can be more challenging, with winemaker Freddy Arredondo saying it requires vigilance in the vineyard.

While the results so far are mixed, Cave B continues to give an interesting look into this evolving growing region.

Cave B Estate Winery Unoaked Chardonnay Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2010 $19
Rating: . (Decent) Lightly aromatic with lemon and white peach. The palate is tart and textured with a full feel and lemony acidity that occasionally veers toward sour. 12.7% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Estate Winery Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: + (Good) Moderately aromatic with vanilla, spice, melon, and tropical fruit. The palate is full of oak spices with a creamy feel. Thins out toward the finish. 100% Chardonnay. 14.6% alcohol. 171 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: + (Good) A very herbal wine with lemon zest and lime notes. The palate is tart with a lemony zing of acidity. 13.0% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Estate Winery Semillon Columbia Valley 2009 $20
Rating: . (Decent) Very lightly aromatic with fresh spun cotton and spice. The palate is creamy with a full feel. 90% Semillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc. 14.8% alcohol. 225 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Estate Winery Sangiovese Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2009 $28
Rating: . (Decent) Pale ruby. A lightly aromatic wine with orange peel, red currant, fresh cranberries, and wood spice. The palate is light, tart, and tangy. 14.3% alcohol. 134 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Cave B Estate Winery XXIII Merlot Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2008 $35
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. A moderately aromatic wine full of fresh red fruit accented by wood spice. The palate is on the lighter side of medium bodied, tart and refreshing with chalky tannins. 14.6% alcohol. 144 cases produced.

Cave B Estate Winery Cuvee du Soleil Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $45
Rating: + (Good) A lightly aromatic medley of herbal notes, cherries, and spice. The palate is on the lighter side of medium bodied with tart cherry flavors and grainy tannins. Thins out toward the finish. 36% Cabernet Sauvignon 36% Merlot 18% Cabernet Franc and 10% Malbec. 14.5% alcohol. 239 cases produced.

Cave B Estate Winery Malbec Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2009 $35
Rating: . (Decent) Medium ruby with a slight purple tingle. A very lightly aromatic wine with green notes, chocolate, and whiffs of pepper. Comes off as quite sour. 14.8% alcohol.

Cave B Estate Winery Tempranillo Columbia Valley 2009 $28
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Medium ruby. Lightly aromatic with red fruit, vanilla, and sweet spices. The palate is dry and medium bodied with grippy tannins. Thins out towards the finish. 14.6% alcohol.

Cave B Estate Winery Syrah Cave B Vineyards Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: . (Decent) A moderately aromatic wine with red fruit, potpourri, and orange peel. Comes off as simultaneously tart and sweet on the palate, finishing very tart. 14.8% alcohol.

Onesies

Soos Creek Wine Cellars consistently under prices and over delivers across its lineup. A Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Bordeaux-style blend for $30? I can almost see the stickers on the wines, “Compare at $60.” Read a Focus Report on the winery here.

Soos Creek Wine Cellars Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with dark fruit, chocolate, floral notes, and spice. The palate is tightly wound with a core of black fruit flavors hanging on a scaffolding of grippy tannins. Lingers on the finish. 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot.

Washington Wine Round-up December 15th to 21st 2011

2011-12-26T00:01:00.000-08:00

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from December 15th to 21st. Read previous round-ups here.

From around the country...

MSNBC writes about the best budget bottles with a callout to Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Knox News writes about wines for the holidays with a callout to Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Columbia Valley Riesling.

From the blogosphere…

Paul Gregutt gives his top 100 wines of 2011. He also gives further thoughts on Washington’s newest AVA and gives a look back and look ahead.

Northwest Wine Anthem writes about Alan Busacca of Alma Terra. They also write about the Ghost of 413.

Table Talk writes about the Seattle Food and Wine Experience.

Nectar Tasting Room and Wine Blog gives 12 Merry Christmas wine decorations.

Lucha Vino compares a Washington Cabernet/Syrah blend to one from Australia.

Blue Collar Wine Guy gives the 12 cabernets of Christmas.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Washington’s newest AVA.

Yakima Valley Tourism writes about the new Naches Heights AVA.

Mercer Island Patch gives holiday gift ideas.

MyNorthwest.com asks whether 1183 is hurting the craft distillery business.

Greater Seattle On the Cheap writes about Washington wines in Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Best Buys.

From the locals…

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt gives his Top 100 Wines of 2011.

Western Farm Press writes about a new tool for wine grape growers.

KNDO writes about big plans at Naches Heights Vineyard.

The News Tribune writes about the approval of the Naches Heights AVA.

The Tri-City Herald writes about the Clore center hiring an architect. They also write about Domaine Ste. Michelle.

The Yakima Herald writes about the approval of the Naches Heights AVA.

Seattle Weekly writes about Efeste.

Oregon Live! writes about the Naches Heights AVA. They also write about 2011 wines, world, and weather.

The Ballard News Tribune writes about difficulties for craft distilleries after 1183.

The Seattle Times writes about the effect of new liquor laws on craft distilleries. They also write that a judge won’t stop liquor privatization.

The Spokane Journal of Business says that retailers are facing pressure on liquor sales (Note: Requires subscription to read full article).

KBKW writes about Westport Winery adding a bakery.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Thurston Wolfe.

The Olympian writes about Governor Gregoire looking to cut the liquor control board.

Whatcom Magazine writes about Gordon Brothers.

The Herald writes about South County voting on Initiative 1183.

The AP writes about Oregon reconsidering its liquor sales after 1183.

That's all folks!

Happy Holidays!

2011-12-24T00:01:00.000-08:00

Wishing Washington wineries, wine lovers, wine grape growers, distributors, and retailers everywhere a happy holiday season from all of us here at Washington Wine Report (that would be me). Click on the picture for a larger image.

Five Wines Under $15 - December 2011

2011-12-23T00:01:00.000-08:00

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

In last month’s Five Wines Under $15, I wrote about the apparent abundance of Pinot Gris in Washington, despite the fact that there are so few on the shelves. While many of the wines I tried then did not leave me particularly inspired – although I should say the Columbia Crest H3 Pinot Gris improved enough after a day that I would recommend it – this month we have two wines that break that trend.

The first is the 2010 Kyra Wines Pinot Gris. Winemaker Kyra Baerlocher quietly produces a lineup of well made, well priced varietal wines. The winery’s Pinot Noir (see review of the 2008 vintage here) is one of the more enjoyable bottles coming out of Washington, as is its Chenin Blanc (see review here). Add Pinot Gris to that list. This wine hails from Evergreen Vineyard in the Ancient Lakes area and is full of fruit flavors.

The second is the 2009 Milbrandt Vineyards Pinot Gris. This wine is also 100% Evergreen Vineyard fruit making for an interesting comparison and contrast, although the 2009 vintage was warm and the 2010 vintage cool (Note: The 2010 Milbrandt Pinot Gris looks to be starting to move through distribution channels).

Next up we have three Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet is, by a good stretch, Washington’s most produced red grape at 31,900 tons in 2010, with Merlot second at 28,300.

The first wine is another from the Milbrandt brothers. In a very short time, Butch and Jerry Milbrandt have planted enough vineyards and made enough wine to compete at volume in the $15 and under market. To wit, 11,891 cases were made of the 2009 Cabernet. Though not even slightly on the scale of Washington’s largest wineries, it is quite an impressive feat given that their first vines were planted in 1997. While the 2009 vintage doesn’t quite live up to the strong 2007 and 2008 vintages, it remains an enjoyable, well priced wine.

Next up is the 2009 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet. While mass production can sometimes mean mediocre quality, especially in the wine world, Columbia Crest proves that isn’t necessarily the case and they do so bottle after bottle. The 2009 Cabernet, which includes 7% Merlot and 6% Syrah, is immediately identifiable as Cabernet and is, once again, a quality wine.

The final wine, the first of the 2010 reds, comes from Stonecap. Stonecap is a second label for Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard and Winery. With a large estate vineyard, the winery has begun aggressively competing in the sub-$10 space where few Washington wineries play. Stay tuned.

Kyra Wines Pinot Gris Evergreen Vineyard Columbia Valley 2010 $13
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing wine with abundant pear and melon aromas. The palate is full of ripe apple and peach flavors with a medium bodied feel and a lingering finish. 100% Pinot Gris. 13.5% alcohol. 300 cases produced.

Milbrandt Traditions Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2009 $13
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Pale in color. Aromatically appealing with straw, apple notes, and light lemon zest. The palate has a full, rounded feel with red and green apple flavors accented by a citric finish. 100% Pinot Gris. Evergreen Vineyard. 12.5% alcohol.

Milbrandt Traditions Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2009 $15
Rating: + (Good) Lightly aromatic with cherry, mocha, and pickly wood spice. The palate is soft and on the light side of medium bodied with tart chocolate flavors and silky tannins. An enjoyable, easy drinking wine where the wood pokes through just a bit too much on occasions. 77% Cabernet Sauvignon 15% Merlot 6% Malbec 2% Petit Verdot. 14.5% alcohol. 14.5% alcohol.

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2009 $12
Rating: + (Good) A moderately aromatic wine with cherry, coffee, and herbal notes that is immediately identifiable as Cabernet. The palate is full of chocolate and cherry flavors with enough tannic backbone to hold the whole story together. Finishes slightly sweet. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 6% Syrah. Aged 16 months in oak (33% new). 13.5% alcohol.

Stonecap Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2010 $8
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Starts off somewhat reductive before switching to toasty spices, light cherry, blueberry notes, and caramel. The palate is soft, smooth, and easy drinking. 13.5% alcohol.

Fresh Sheet December 22nd 2011

2011-12-22T00:09:00.000-08:00

Today’s Fresh Sheet, new and recent Washington wine releases, includes wines from Cadence Winery, Rotie Cellars, DiStefano Winery, Kaella Winery, Aniche Cellars, Stella Fino Winery, Trust Cellars, and Fall Line Winery.

Cadence Winery

When winemaker Ben Smith of south Seattle’s Cadence Winery planted his estate vineyard, Cara Mia, on Red Mountain in 2004, I wondered how long it would take for the site to shake off its youth. With the current releases, it would appear that we have an answer.

The 2008 Cadence wines include two estate bottles, the Bel Canto and Camerata. Both are clear indications of this site’s evolution with the Bel Canto among the best wines Smith has made – a strong statement given the winery’s track record of excellence. While the Bel Canto is two-thirds Cabernet Franc, the wine explores the grape’s floral aspect rather than its herbal one. This is a hide-me-deep-in-the-cellar wine if ever there were one, showing all of the classic Cadence structure with a bit more fruit generosity.

As in previous vintages, Cadence continues to also make top quality wines from nearby Ciel du Cheval and Taptiel vineyards. While all of the Cadence wines, like fine Bordeaux, require patience to fully express themselves (a 1999 I had a while back was still stretching its legs), the results are more than worth the effort, and Smith remains among the state’s best winemakers.

Cadence Winery Bel Canto Red Wine Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Locked up tightly at present, this wine reveals floral notes, earth, mineral, dark fruit, and light chocolate. The palate is tightly coiled with dark fruit and firm tannins - a whopper while remaining graceful and beautifully structured. Simultaneously full throttle and far from over the top. Put this one in the cellar and forget about it for a few years to see it at its best. 67% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot.

Cadence Winery Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Dark and brooding with earth, mineral, floral notes, high toned herbal notes, and berries. Locked up tightly still, the palate is exquisitely balanced with firm tannins and lithe, sophisticated fruit flavors. Give two-plus years. 38% Cabernet Franc, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Petit Verdot.

Cadence Winery Camerata Red Wine Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $55
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Medium ruby. Locked up tightly, this wine opens up to aromas of cranberry, rose hips, floral notes, and mineral notes. The palate has focused, ripe fruit flavors on a well-integrated scaffolding of tannins that squeeze the palate before gently letting go. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot. 14.4% alcohol.

Cadence Winery Red Wine Tapteil Vineyard Red Mountain 2008 $45
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An alluring wine with high toned raspberries, cranberries, earth, sea breeze, and floral notes. On the palate, a deeply powerful wine with incredibly polished tannins and gracefully textured fruit flavors. Give it a minimum of two years or an extended decant to see it at its finest. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Franc. 14.4% alcohol.

Rotie Cellars

With his 2009 vintage reds, winemaker Sean Boyd of Rotie Cellars continues to establish himself as one of Washington’s most compelling young winemakers.

As the name would imply, Rotie Cellars focuses on Rhone-style blends. Offerings include a Northern Blend of Syrah co-fermented with Viognier, a Southern White Blend from Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, and finally a Southern Blend that is mostly Grenache along with Syrah and Mourvedre. The winery also makes a varietal bottling of Grenache, the Little G.

While each wine below is the best of Rotie Cellars’ first three vintages, the 2009 Northern Blend is something else altogether, a shockingly good wine that is among my favorites from 2011.

Of note, Boyd, who had been serving as assistant winemaker at Waters Winery, struck out on his own at the beginning of the year with the wines now being made out of Mannina Cellars.

Rotie Cellars Southern White Wine Washington State 2010 $28
Rating: + (Good) Pale lemon yellow. A moderately aromatic wine with white flowers, peaches, and orange peel. The palate is rich and textured with a huge inner mouth perfume. 50% Viognier, 30% Roussanne, and 20% Marsanne. 375 cases produced. Reviewed November 18, 2011

Rotie Cellars Northern Blend Red Wine Washington State 2009 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A meaty, gamey wine full of savory notes, floral notes, mineral, sliced black olives, and ash. On the palate, the wine is full of earth, meat, and savory flavors, lingering as long as one wants to count on the finish. 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier. 450 cases produced.

Rotie Cellars Southern Blend Red Wine Washington State 2009 $40
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) An aromatic, somewhat stinky wine with cranberries, raspberries, and rose hips. Tart and filled with fresh fruit flavors. As it opens up, game and earth come to the fore. Lingers on the finish. 68% Grenache, 16% Syrah, 16% Mourvedre. Aged in second fill French oak. 14.2% alcohol. 600 cases produced.

Rotie Cellars Little G Grenache Washington State 2009 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) Light in color. An aromatic, distinctly stinky wine with saline, floral notes, game, earth, and white pepper. The palate is light bodied with silky fruit flavors that call out to the Old World. One of the more unique, intriguing Grenache made in the state. 100% Grenache. 14.5% alcohol.

DiStefano Winery

DiStefano Winery was founded by Mark Newton and his wine Donna DiStefano in 1983, making it one of the first wineries in this now teeming region. Newton serves as winemaker.

The winery sources its grapes from Roza Hills and Willard (Yakima Valley), Bacchus and Dionysus (Columbia Valley), Rosebud and Weinbau (Wahluke Slope), and Alder Ridge (Horse Heaven Hills).

All of the wines in the current lineup are fairly high in alcohol, coming in between 15.0% alcohol and 15.5%. Some of the wines manage to hold it well, but for others it becomes distracting.

DiStefano Winery Domenica Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007 $28
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Medium ruby. Aromatically dominated by milk chocolate, wood spice, red fruit, licorice, and light herbal notes. The palate is soft and silky, full of tart, tart cherry flavors that linger on the finish. Alcohol shows through at times. 15.0% alcohol. 420 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

DiStefano Winery Sogno Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2007 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatically appealing, very varietal wine with milk chocolate, black cherries, and very light herbal notes. The palate is full and ripe with abundant cherry flavors. Shows a bit of heat on the finish on an otherwise quite enjoyable wine. 82% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. 15.5% alcohol. 580 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

DiStefano Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. Aromas of cherry, licorice, campfire, oak spice, and high toned herbal notes. An extremely ripe – almost sweet – wine full of cherry fruit flavors and chalky tannins. Alcohol shows through at times. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. 15.2% alcohol. 356 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

DiStefano Winery Meritage Columbia Valley 2008 $28
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. A moderately aromatic wine with sweet spices, cherry, wood spice, herbal notes, and licorice. The palate is medium bodied with smooth cherry flavors and textured tannins. Shows a considerable amount of heat. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 19% Merlot, and 11% Petit Verdot. 15.0% alcohol. 600 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

DiStefano Winery Syrah R Columbia Valley 2007 $32
Rating: ./+ (Decent/Good) Medium ruby with a purple tinge at the rim. Aromatically a bit closed up with chocolate, spice, cocoa, and raisined fruit. The palate is quite ripe showing a lot of heat. 15.0% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kaella Winery

Dave Butner had his first release from Kaella Winery last year. The winery, located in Woodinville’s Warehouse District, is named after a combination of his daughter’s names, Katie and Ella.

The current releases from Kaella offer a unique opportunity to explore Conner Lee Vineyard. Butner has produced 100% varietal bottlings of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon from this site, each in second fill oak. Butner says he intended to make a Bordeaux-style blend but found that none of the blends were more than the sum of their parts. The result is a rare opportunity to look at wines from a single winemaker across a series of varietals with minimal influence of new oak.

For the 2009 releases, Butner made one barrel of each wine bringing his total production to 125 cases. He doubled this to 225 in 2010 and again to 500 in 2011.

Kaella Winery Sangiovese Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2009 $25
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. An aromatically appealing wine with dusty cherry, raspberry, chocolate, and earth. The palate is tart with a big blast of acid that runs from start to finish. Pair this one with some food to bring it into check. 100% Sangiovese. Aged in second fill French oak. 15.2% alcohol. 25 cases produced.

Kaella Winery Merlot Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2009 $30
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. Toasty spices and oak notes dominate initially followed by red fruit and light herbal notes. The palate is soft and medium bodied, trailing off a bit in the second half. 100% Merlot. Aged in second fill French oak. 13.2% alcohol. 25 cases produced.

Kaella Winery Cabernet Franc Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2009 $35
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Medium ruby. Leaps up from the glass with chocolate and cherries accented by high toned herbal notes. A soft, fruit-filled wine with a tart uptick on the finish. 100% Cabernet Franc. Aged in second fill French oak. 14.3% alcohol. 25 cases produced.

Kaella Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2009 $35
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Dark in color with high toned herbal notes along with cherry, mocha powder, and light herbal notes. The palate is soft and textured, silky and sultry, full of chocolate and cherry flavors and velvety tannins. A very pretty, very pure expression of Cabernet. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in second fill French oak. 25 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Kaella Winery Syrah Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2009 $35
Rating: . (Decent) Medium purple. A lightly aromatic wine with plum and spice notes. The palate comes off as tart and somewhat disjointed with grainy tannins. 100% Syrah. Aged in second fill French oak. 15.6% alcohol. 25 cases produced.

Aniche Cellars

Aniche Cellars is a new winery located on Underwood Mountain in the Columbia Gorge. The winery focuses largely on blends. “Think Halle Berry, mutts and Bordeaux,” the winery’s website says.

Rachael Horn serves as winemaker. Horn came to wine after working in education as well as in the hospitality industry. One day she was waiting a table and waxing about the joys of wine when the customer she was talking to said, “’You are so passionate about wine, why don't you make it?’" Inspired, Horn subsequently attended the WSU Enology and Viticulture program.

AniChe is named after a combination of the names of the Horn’s children, Anais and Che. The winery’s logo is a peacock feather with the name written as if it were from a quill. Each of the wine names, typed in Underwood font in a call out to the winery’s location, is named after a literary character. The specific references are on the back of the label. For example, “Lizzy” is named after Jane Austin’s Elizabeth Bennet. “I’m a failed writer,” Horn explains.

All of the AniChe wines are unfined and unfiltered, resulting in sediment and a slight cloudiness in some. Of the wines sampled below, the whites were generally more successful than the reds, including a rarely seen bottle of Albarino.

AniChe Cellars had its first commercial vintage in 2009 and is producing 2,500 cases annually.

AniChe Cellars “Come and Go” Albarino Dutchman Vineyard Yakima Valley 2010 $20
Rating: + (Good) Pale lemon yellow and slightly cloudy with some precipitate. An aromatic wine full of ripe peach, apple, melon, and pear aromas and flavors. The palate is tart and rounded, dipping in the middle, but coming back with a nice zing of acidity that carries it along to a lingering finish. An enjoyable bottle of this seldom seen varietal. 100% Albarino. Fermented and aged in plastic. 13.2% alcohol. 90 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Recommended

AniChe Cellars “Lizzy” White Wine Columbia Valley 2010 $22
Rating: + (Good) Pale in color with some precipitate. Lightly aromatic with pleasing notes of marzipan, apple, and a touch of honey. The palate is medium bodied with a broad feel, losing a bit of its rhythm in the second half, coming back together for a lemony finish. Overall, a very clean, enjoyable wine. 65% Roussanne (Alder Ridge), 35% Marsanne (Boushey). Fermented and aged in plastic. 13.9% alcohol. 150 cases. Sample provided by winery. Recommended.

AniChe Cellars “Orlando” Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $26
Rating: . (Decent) Medium ruby. Lightly aromatic and a bit volatile at times with spice, red vines, and crushed nuts. The palate is soft and supple with abundant red fruit flavors. 66% Tempranillo (Underwood Mountain) and 34% Grenache (Elephant Mountain). Aged in neutral oak. 13.4% alcohol. 75 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

AniChe Cellars “Goat Boy” Red Wine Rattlesnake Hills 2009 $36
Rating: . (Decent) Green veggies, cherry, and a touch of chocolate on an aromatically subdued wine. The palate is soft and full of cherry flavors with soft tannins and a tart finish. 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot, 12% Cabernet Franc. Elephant Mountain Vineyard. Aged 14 months in French oak (30% new). 14.7% alcohol. 75 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

AniChe Cellars “Moth Love” Red Wine Rattlesnake Hills 2009 $34
Rating: + (Good) Medium ruby. Abundant Red Vines and red fruit aromas along with dusty chocolate and a mineral streak. The palate is medium bodied, soft and tart with a lingering finish. 48% Syrah, 34% Mourvedre, 18% Grenache. Sugarloaf and Elephant Mountain vineyards. Aged 14 months in French oak (30% new). 15.5% alcohol. Sample provided by winery.

AniChe Cellars “Atticus” Syrah Rattlesnake Hills 2009 $34
Rating: + (Good) Medium purple. Lightly aromatic with light spices, red berries, and dusty chocolate. The palate is soft and tart with minimal oak influence. Comes in at a whopping 16% alcohol but doesn’t show it. 97% Syrah (Elephant Mountain) and 3% Viognier (Underwood Mountain). 16% alcohol. 75 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Stella Fino Winery

Stella Fino Winery, owned by Matt and Marlene Steiner, is located in the Walla Walla Valley, south of the Washington-Oregon border in the ‘occupied area.’ The winery also has a tasting room in Hood River.

Matt Steiner, who serves as winemaker, grew up in the Bronx, where his great-grandmother, Stella Fino, settled after emigrating from Italy. He describes the path he took to the world of wine as follows:

“After graduating college with an economics degree in 2001, I began my professional career as most recent grads in the New York, New Jersey, Connecticut area do. I started working in finance, wholesale banking to be exact. After my office was destroyed in the September 11^th attacks, I started poking around for a different career path.”

After exploring several possibilities, Steiner and his wife decided to pursue their interest in wine. “We quit our jobs at the end of July 2004, bought a car, stuffed what we could fit from our apartment in it, left the rest on the street corner, and headed to a place we had never been before.”

Steiner started out working crush by day, bartending at night. He soon began taking classes at Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program. In 2005 he purchased his first fruit, Sangiovese and Barbera, for Stella Fino.

Steiner, who as you can tell, is infinitely quotable, says he has learned a lot along the way. “From 2005 through 2008, I was adamant about picking early for lower alcohol and higher acid, aging the wine in barrel for 2 years and never using any new oak,” Steiner says. “The resulting wines were lean and austere in their youth, but, for example, the 2005's and 2006's are beginning to show very well now and will continue to age for next several years.” Indeed, the wines sampled here show a work in progress, but Steiner’s commitment cannot be questioned.

Of starting the winery, Steiner says, “You have to be committed to it if you are willing to get up and work from 8 am to 5 or 6 pm at a day job and then go and work in a winery, without any employees, until 12 am (during crush its 2 or 3 am) everyday and put in 16 hrs every Sat and Sunday. When someone buys a bottle of my wine, they are truly purchasing a piece of my blood, sweet, tears, stress, lack of sleep, and absolute commitment…But mostly I hope they are just purchasing a bottle of wine they will enjoy with some friends over dinner.”

Stella Fino produces 1,000 cases annually.

Stella Fino Winery Reserve Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: . (Decent) Pale lemon yellow. An aromatic wine with toasty oak spices, vanilla, and lemon. The palate is tart and full with abundant oak flavors. 100% Pinot Grigio. Aged for 11 months in stainless steel and oak. 14.1% alcohol. 90 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Stella Fino Winery Barbera Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: + (Good) Brightly aromatic with fresh raspberry jam along with ground cranberries and rose hips. The palate is light bodied and clean in a lean style with bright acidity and restrained use of oak. An easy drinking wine that doesn’t stand up on its own but has a place at the table. 100% Barbera. 13.5% alcohol. 175 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Stella Fino Winery Sangiovese Columbia Valley 2009 $28
Rating: . (Decent) Medium ruby. Moderately aromatic with raspberry and cranberry notes. The palate is tart and grippy, finishing a bit bitter. 100% Sangiovese. 14.3% alcohol. 160 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Stella Fino Winery Sangiovese Les Vignes de Marcoux Yakima Valley 2009 $50
Rating: . (Decent) Toasty oak spices rise up from the glass – some spendy wood was clearly used for this wine - along with dusty raspberries. The palate is tart and soft with a puckering, slightly bitter finish. 100% Sangiovese. 14.4% alcohol. Less than 100 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Onesies

This is the second vintage of varietal Cabernet Franc from Walla Walla’s Trust Cellars, and it continues to be an impressive addition to the lineup.

Trust Cellars Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2008 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromatically closed up initially with raspberries, cherries, floral notes, rose hips, herbal notes, and light mineral notes. Plump, ripe tannins and cherry flavors glide across the palate leading to a fruit filled finish. 100% Cabernet Franc. 70 cases produced.

What’s this? A Bordeaux-style blend from Red Willow Vineyard at $28? Indeed, Tim Sorenson of south Seattle’s Fall Line Winery always produces high quality bottles at can’t be beat prices, and this Merlot-dominant Bordeaux-style blend is no exception.

Fall Line Winery Red Wine Red Willow Vineyard Yakima Valley 2008 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) An alluring wine with coffee grounds, earth tones, floral notes, and red fruit. The palate is dense and compact with intense red fruit flavors. It’s hard to find many wines made from this top Washington vineyard that are less than thirty-five dollars and up, let alone one with this level of quality. 53% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Aged 18 months in French oak (36% new). 269 cases produced.

Hey Decanter: Cover the Pacific Northwest Seriously or Don’t Cover It At All

2011-12-21T00:03:00.001-08:00

Decanter is one of the world’s top wine publications. The Pacific Northwest is one of the world’s top emerging wine regions. You would never know either based on a recent article in the magazine.

On December 12^th Decanter published a 327-word article on the Pacific Northwest titled “Washington yields down, Oregon up as harvest finishes.” Decanter’s readers would have been best served if the article stopped there. Unfortunately, it does not.

In terms of Washington, the brief article mentions the cool growing conditions and lower sugar levels of the grapes in 2011. The article quotes a single Washington winemaker, Paul Beveridge of Wilridge Winery, with grim thoughts on the growing season - “nasty” Beveridge calls it, mentioning “pink Nebbiolo” due to what the writer refers to as “severe dilution of the grapes.”

First things first. 2011 was no doubt as challenging a year as many Washington growers and winemakers had seen with some of the coolest growing conditions. How tough was it? Let’s go to the source for Decanter’s article to find out.

“The objective measurements of degree days and frost dates point to 2011 as the toughest year in Washington wine grape history,” Paul Beveridge says. “But of course that is not to say that wonderful wines will not be made from some 2011 fruit.” He goes on to add, “I noted that 2011 was a great year for warm sites, with lots of hang time and flavor development, but that comment did not make it into the Decanter summary.” Indeed, and this would seem to be at odds with the thrust of the article.

Pink Nebbiolo? “My reference to Nebbiolo Rose was due to the historically low heat units on Naches Heights, not to dilution. We got exceptional concentration on Naches Heights in 2011 in the grapes that ripened fully.” Given the differences between ripening and dilution, this is a significant error in the article, especially given the implications for the state as a whole.

Let me add that if you’re going to quote one single individual to sum up the entire growing season in the state, it may not be the best idea to quote a winemaker with a young vineyard in one of the state’s newest, coolest growing regions, not to mention a region that possesses a total of 40 out of Washington’s 43,000+ planted acres of grapes! (No offense intended, of course, to Paul Beveridge, who I should note also sources grapes from other areas and has been making wine for more than 20 years.)

The bottom line if you read this Decanter article? Washington had a very bad year in 2011. What is the implication for you overseas and stateside readers? Pass on the wines. This is a disservice to the state, its growers and winemakers, and Decanter’s many readers.

Interestingly, the coverage of Oregon is far rosier, with terms like “miracle” and “classic Indian Summer” and “excellent harvest.” Two miracles in a row for our neighbors to the south? Miraculous! Meanwhile, Idaho was given largely neutral language.

Wait, Decanter is writing about Idaho wines?

Indeed, while Decanter devoted a scant 327 words to the Pacific Northwest, 97 of them went to Idaho (Oregon, 75; Washington, 107 excluding the two, short lead-in paragraphs). The relatively equal coverage of these areas seems curious given that Washington has more than 740 wineries, Oregon 419 as of 2010, and Idaho currently 46. If you are a Decanter reader who is unfamiliar with these growing regions, would this article make you inclined to think of them all on equal footing? Yup.

Ultimately, this article is a disservice to Decanter’s readers, not because of how little it says but because so much of what it says is, at best, cursory, and at worst inaccurate. If Decanter considers itself a top-flight wine magazine that offers serious coverage of the world’s wine regions, it’s time to either cover the Pacific Northwest seriously or not cover it at all. What it’s doing now is considerably worse.

I know. I know. Not quite in the spirit of the holidays. Sorry. For perspective, this post is two times the length of the Decanter article.

Walla Walla Valley Report 2011 Part III

2011-12-20T13:08:00.000-08:00

Below is Part III of a report from the Walla Walla Valley including wines from Saviah Cellars, Tranche Cellars, Waters Winery, Amavi Cellars, Pepper Bridge, and Forgeron Cellars. Read a .pdf version of this report here. Read Part I here and Part II here.

Saviah Cellars

Winemaker Richard Funk at Saviah Cellars has a knack for making high quality wines at compelling price points. Funk, who started his winery in 2000 after working as an environmental health specialist, consistently crafts impeccably made wines all in an elegant style.

In recent years, Funk has been expanding the winery’s vineyard holdings. The goal in the long-term is to have Walla Walla Valley wines under the Saviah Cellars label with Columbia Valley fruit designated for the winery’s extremely successful The Jack program. To this end, Saviah now co-owns a series of sites, in partnership with other wineries, including Anna Marie (also Northstar, Watermill, Seven Hills); Duggar Creek (also Watermill); Watermill (Ste. Michelle, Watermill), and Saviah Estate Vineyard (currently selling fruit to Sleight of Hand and Rasa). These sites are spread across the valley and are managed by Leonard Brown, who Funk works closely with.

In terms of The Jack brand, Funk continues to expand the lineup. With its iconic playing card label, these wines, priced $18 and under but frequently found on-sale, offer consistent value. The lineup currently includes a Riesling, Red Wine, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Of the current releases, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is the standout with fruit from Pepper Bridge, Lewis, Bacchus, Seven Hills, and Kiona vineyards (Note: Take a good look at the label to make sure it’s the Cabernet as the Red Wine looks very similar).

Saviah Cellars Star Meadow White Wine Columbia Valley 2010 $20
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine full of tropical fruit, buttery spices, pear, and floral notes. The palate is full and textured, rich with fruit and silky oak flavors followed by a spice filled finish. Not shy on the wood but holds it well. 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon. Stillwater Creek and Rosebud vineyards. Aged 7 months in neutral French oak. 13.8% alcohol. 223 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Reviewed November 18th, 2011

Saviah Cellars The Jack Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $15
Rating: + (Good) Aromas of ripe pear and peach with chamomile and a lime twist. The palate is on the slightly sweeter side of off-dry but with well balanced acidity. Lingers for a long finish. A very enjoyable bottle. 100% Riesling. Evergreen Vineyard. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. 12.4% alcohol. 1.79% Residual Sugar. 1,084 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Recommended. Reviewed November 18th, 2011

Saviah Cellars The Jack Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2009 $18
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) An aromatic wine full of milk chocolate, ripe cherries, toasty spice, and light herbal notes. The palate is light to medium bodied chock full of chocolate and cherry flavors buffeted by silky tannins. Lingers on the finish. 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Merlot. Pepper Bridge, Lewis, Bacchus, Seven Hills, and Kiona vineyards. Aged in American oak (40% new). 14.1% alcohol. 980 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Saviah Cellars The Jack Syrah Columbia Valley 2009 $18
Rating: + (Good) An aromatically appealing wine full of wild blueberries with a dusting of chocolate and spice. The palate is light bodied with soft, silky fruit flavors. An enjoyable, easy drinking wine. 75% Syrah, 21% Sangiovese, 2% Malbec, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Lewis, Stillwater Creek, Songbird, Ranch at the End of the Road, and Elephant Mountain vineyards. Aged in American oak (20% new). 14.3% alcohol. 980 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Saviah Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2008 $28
Rating: * (Excellent) Lightly aromatic with floral notes, herbal notes, licorice, bittersweet chocolate, and fresh cherries sprinkled with earth. The palate is silky and seductive, seamlessly put together with chocolate and cherry flavors accented by soft, polished tannins. A long, lingering finish. A very pretty expression of Cabernet. Pepper Bridge, Bacchus, and McClellan Estate vineyards. Aged 20 months in French oak (50% new). 14.1% alcohol. 735 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Saviah Cellars Une Vallee Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2009 $32
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Moderately aromatic with earth, floral notes, incense, milk chocolate and dried cherries. The palate is both elegant and weighted, full of chocolate and cherry flavors seamlessly stitched together. The tannins are soft and silky. A very pretty wine. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc. 382 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Saviah Cellars Petit Verdot Walla Walla Valley 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) An immediately appealing wine full of a potpourri of floral notes, soil, and red cherries. The palate is soft and silky, belying a textured tannic structure that is beautifully integrated. A compelling varietal bottling of this rare grape. 200 cases produced.

Tranche Cellars

Tranche Cellars is quietly making some of the best wines in the Walla Walla Valley. Like it’s sister winery, Corliss Estates, Tranche gives its wines extended time in barrel and bottle prior to release. As a result, many of the winery’s current releases hail from the 2006 vintage. For most wineries this would be a sign of stagnation; for Tranche, it’s a stylistic choice.

Tranche is located at Blue Mountain Vineyard, the old Nicolas Cole vineyard and facility located a quarter mile from Leonetti’s Loess Vineyard. This breathtaking spot, with a backdrop of the Blue Mountains and Red-tailed Hawk nests, has seen a good deal of expansion since Tranche purchased the facility. The site currently has 68 acres planted, including recent plantings of Grenache Blanc and Picpoul.

In recent years, the winery has settled in to making two series of wines – the ‘Slice of Pape’ wines as well as a set of varietally designated wines. The Slice of Pape series, an exploration of Southern Rhone-style wines, include a white, rose, and red. Varietal releases currently include a Barbera, Cabernet Franc, Red Blend, Syrah, Chardonnay, Cabernet, and Pinot Gris.

The 2011 releases include Tranche’s first two estate wines – a 2007 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Franc and a 2010 Pink Pape Dry Rose (see review here). Both show the tremendous promise of this vineyard site. However, the star of the 2011 releases is truly the 2006 Syrah. This is a stunning wine that is a beautiful balance of youth and age, fruit intensity and grace. Better yet, it remains extremely well priced for this level of quality.

Tranche Cellars Slice of Pape Blanc Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale lemon yellow. An aromatic wine redolent with spice, floral notes, nectarines, and pear. Full bodied with a textured, glycerol feel with lingering fruit flavors. Just the slightest touch of sweetness on the palate leads to a dry, crisp finish. An absolutely beautiful wine. Roussanne, Viognier. Aged 8 months in French oak (40% new). 14.5% alcohol. 282 cases produced.

Tranche Cellars Barbera Columbia Valley 2006 $25
Rating: + (Good) Ripe, rich fruit flavors rise up from the glass including raspberries and red plums along with sweet spices and crushed nuts. The palate is full and broad with soft tannins and a tart kick to keep it all together. An enjoyable example of this seldom seen varietal. 100% Barbera. Aged 42 months in neutral French oak. 15.2% alcohol. Sample provided by winery. 525 cases produced. Recommended

Tranche Cellars Estate Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley 2007 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Pleasing aromatics of black cherry, herbal note, oak spices, and kisses of chocolate. Palate starts off with opulent cherry flavors and then pulls back and sails with velvety tannins. Another top-notch effort from this winery. Aged 34 months in French oak (75% new). 15.1% alcohol. 180 cases produced. Sample provided by winery. Reviewed June 23^rd, 2011

Tranche Cellars Slice of Pape Red Wine Columbia Valley 2006 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with red fruit, pepper, and toasty spices. The palate is silky and rich, full of vanilla and chewy fruit flavors. Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault. Aged 32 months in French oak (60% new). 15.2% alcohol. 178 cases produced.

Tranche Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2006 $35
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An aromatically complex and appealing wine with wood spice, mineral, high toned blackberry, moist earth, baker’s chocolate, coffee, and dark floral notes. Dense and drawn out, coating the palate from end to end with rich fruit flavors accented by barrel notes and silky tannins. An extended finish. The wood plays a fairly dominant role in this show but it works for this wine. Drinking absolutely beautifully right now, this wine will continue to age gracefully for years to come. Aged 33 months in French oak (60% new). 15.2% alcohol. 274 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Waters Winery

Waters Winery has undergone a number of changes in the last year or so, selling off some of its vineyard holdings, changing winery staff, and making alterations to its lineup. “We put a lot of money into infrastructure. Now we’ve got to pay for it,” winemaker Jamie Brown explains of some of the recent changes. The core of this winery, however, remains Brown and his commitment to low oak, low alcohol, terroir driven wines.

In terms of the lineup, Waters Viognier, often one of the best in the state, has been replaced by the Prelude White Wine, a Roussanne-Viognier Blend. The Interlude remains the winery’s Merlot-dominant Bordeaux-style blend alongside a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Additionally, the 2011 releases also include a new wine, the 2009 Capella Red Wine, made from 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot. “I waited for nine years to make this wine,” Jamie Brown says. “I finally did it.”

The heart of the winery remains Syrah, however, and the 2009 vintage wines continue to sparkle. The Loess Syrah, the only vineyard-designated wine made from this Figgins Family Wine Estates sites, is perhaps the best that the winery has made from this vineyard. The star of the show, however, remains the Forgotten Hills Syrah.

Forgotten Hills is one of Washington’s most distinctive, compelling Syrah sites. Unfortunately, it is also one of the cooler ones. Recent years have not been kind to this vineyard with no vineyard wines made in 2008, 2010, or 2011. This makes the release of the 2009 Forgotten Hills Syrah – another stellar wine that stands among the state’s best – all the much more cause for celebration. Note that due to the rarity of this wine in recent years, the 2009 vintage has seen a significant price increase.

Waters Winery Prelude White Wine Columbia Valley 2010 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) A perfumed wine with lemon drop, white peaches, melon, and floral notes. Palate is perfumed and full of fruit flavors with a rounded mouthfeel. Lingers on the finish. 60% Roussanne and 40% Viognier. Alder Ridge and Old Stones Vineyards. 75% aged in French neutral oak; 25% in stainless steel. 13.5% alcohol. 175 cases produced. Previously reviewed November 18, 2011

Waters Winery Interlude Red Wine Columbia Valley 2009 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromas of cherry and green olive. The palate is deliciously fresh, full of cherry flavors, bright acidity, and restrained use of oak. A sleek, stylistic wine with a lot of hang time on the finish. 55% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Petit Verdot. Cold Creek, Canoe Ridge, and Seven Hills vineyards. Aged in French oak (25% new). 14.5% alcohol. 1,550 cases produced.

Waters Winery Cappella Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2009 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Beautifully aromatic with high toned floral notes, cigar box, raspberries, and blue fruit, and soft herbal tones. The palate is clean and pure, textured and perfumed with soft, mouth coating tannins and a long, long finish. 60% Cabernet Franc (Old Stones), 40% Merlot (Seven Hills). Aged 11 months in neutral French oak. 14.2% alcohol. 188 cases produced.

Waters Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007 $50
Rating: * (Excellent) Abundant savory notes on a wine with whiffs of iodine, olives, and mineral. The palate is restrained with tart red fruit flavors and an acid etched finish. While the 2008 Cabernet will have more commercial appeal, this is the wine to put alongside your dinner. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cold Creek and Pepper Bridge vineyards. Aged two years in French oak (35% new). 14.5% alcohol. 359 cases produced.

Waters Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $50
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An alluring wine with baking spices along with floral notes, pencil lead, and high toned red fruit. The palate is deliciously rich with tart cranberry flavors and a weaving finish. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cold Creek, Windrow, and Pepper Bridge vineyards. Aged in French oak (40% new). 14.5% alcohol. 450 cases produced.

Waters Winery Loess Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2009 $45
Rating: * (Excellent) Rises up from the glass with smoke, floral notes, brambly fruit, iron, and orange peel. The palate has great depth and intensity with a rounded feel and bright acidity. As good a Loess vineyard Syrah as the winery has made. 90% Syrah, 10% Viognier. Aged in second fill French oak. 14.1% alcohol. 190 cases produced.

Waters Winery Forgotten Hills Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2009 $65
Rating: ** (Exceptional) After declassifying all of the fruit from the 2008 vintage, Waters Forgotten Hills Syrah returns as a tour de force with the 2009 release. The wine leaps up from the glass with crushed violets, red fruit, smoke, braised meat, iron ore, and earthy funk. The palate is broad and textured, displaying tremendous depth and intensity along with the winery’s trademark bright acidity. Sails on and on at the finish. Quintessentially Waters; unmistakably Forgotten Hills. As good – perhaps better? – than the heralded 2007 vintage release and more than worth the wait. 100% Syrah. Aged in French oak (25% new). 14.4% alcohol. 514 cases produced.

21 Grams Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008 $125
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Quite distinct from previous vintages, this wine reveals savory notes of soy and iodine along with licorice, green olive, and kisses of chocolate in a jumble of red and black fruit. The palate has plush, rich fruit flavors with ripe tannins and restrained oak accents. Lingers on and on. 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14 % Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Cold Creek, Seven Hills, Sagemoor, Portteus, Va Piano, and Phinney Hill. Aged in French oak (50% new). 14.6% alcohol. 100 cases produced.

Amavi Cellars

If you’re looking for Walla Walla Valley wines that are consistently high quality and yet won’t break the bank, look no further that Amavi Cellars. At Amavi, winemaker Jean-Francois Pellet, who also serves as winemaker for sister winery Pepper Bridge, focuses on Semillon (see review here), Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. These wines all hail from a limited number of estate vineyards – Les Collines (one of the state’s premier Syrah sites), Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, and Goff.

In most years, the extremely limited Les Collines Syrah steals the show. However, for the 2009 vintage releases, its Walla Walla Valley-designated cousin upstages it. Containing as large a percentage of Les Collines Vineyard fruit as the winery has used, this is an exclamation point of a wine, full of violets, chocolate, earth, and dark fruit. Many of the state’s finest syrahs cost $40-$80 or even higher. This one comes in at $29 and is a rare find.

Of note, Amavi opened a tasting room south of town a while back. This stunning, must visit site has picture windows overlooking Pepper Bridge vineyard and the Blue Mountains.

Amavi Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2009 $29
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Medium purple. An aromatic wine that leaps from the glass with violets, chocolate, earth, dark fruit, orange peel, cream, and mineral notes. The palate is lush and perfumed with blue and black fruits and savory notes with great complexity of flavors and depth. A wine that is simultaneously big and restrained with a creamy feel. Lingers on the finish with perfumed flavors. A rare find at this price point. 100% Syrah. Les Collines, Seven Hills, and Pepper Bridge vineyards. Aged in French oak (16% new). 14.1% alcohol. 1,396 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Amavi Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2008 $29
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with mineral, dry chocolate, light game, raspberries, violets and orange peel. Palate has a real weight and intensity along with tart acidity. Lingers on the finish. Another high QPR offering from this winery. 100% Syrah. 49% Seven Hills, 24% Pepper Bridge and 27% Les Collines vineyards. Aged in French oak (19% new). 14.1% alcohol. 1,314 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Amavi Cellars Syrah Les Collines Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2009 $34
Rating: * (Excellent) A moderately aromatic wine full of orange peel, violets, a light meaty streak, mineral, purple and black fruit, baker’s chocolate, and savory notes. A fruit filled, silky wine with creamy feel and winding palate full of chocolate, dark fruit, and savory flavors with grainy tannins. Lingers on the finish. 100% Syrah. Aged 16 months in French oak (15% new). 14.2% alcohol. 321 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Amavi Cellars Syrah Les Collines Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $34
Rating: * (Excellent) An aromatic wine with violets, stewed raspberries, chocolate, and game. The palate is considerably denser, lush, gauzy, and rich than the 2007 offering. Draws out to a long finish. 100% Syrah. Aged in French oak (18% new). 14.2% alcohol. 274 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Amavi Cellars Syrah Les Collines Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007 $34
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Leaps up from the glass with violets, game, raspberries, orange peel, and earth. The palate is medium bodied with a textured feel and a lick of acidity. Persists on the finish. 100% syrah. Les Collines Vineyard. Aged in French oak (20 percent new). 14.1% alcohol. 270 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2009 $28
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Dark ruby. Tightly would up initially, this lightly aromatic wine takes some time to uncoil to reveal black cherries, herbal notes, wild blueberries, cassis, and earth. The palate is full of cherry flavors that slowly evolve into a chocolate filled finish with enough tannins to survive a few years in the cellar. A slight dip in the middle is all that holds this wine back. 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 3% Syrah, 2% Cabernet Franc. 52% Pepper Bridge, 30% Seven Hills, 12% Les Collines, 6% Goff vineyards. Aged in French (88%) and American oak (25% new). 14.1% alcohol. 4,991 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2008 $29
Rating: + (Good) Aromatically appealing with baker’s chocolate, dark cherries, and light, high toned herbal notes. The palate ramps up slowly becoming tart and taught with plush cherry flavors and rounded tannins. 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 5% Syrah, 3% Cabernet Franc. Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, Les Collines, and Goff vineyards. Aged in 88% French, 6% Hungarian, and 6% American oak (30% new). 14.1% alcohol. 4,833 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Pepper Bridge

Pepper Bridge uses only two vineyard sources for its wines, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills. These vineyards are fascinating studies in contrast, and winemaker Jean-Francois Pellet expresses these sites as well as any winemaker in Washington.

The main production wines at Pepper Bridge, a Merlot and Cabernet, come from a combination of these two vineyard sites. Pepper Bridge’s 2008 Estate Merlot is easily one of the top Merlots in the state with dense fruit flavors and Washington’s signature tannins. The 2008 Cabernet meanwhile is a benchmark bottle of Walla Walla Valley Cabernet. Both wines show judicious use of new French oak, less than 50%, allowing the vineyards to shine. The winery also offers two other single vineyard wines, with the 2008 Seven Hills Red Wine showing this vineyard’s softer style while the 2008 Pepper Bridge Red Wine displays this site’s firm structure.

A recent visit to Pepper Bridge during harvest afforded a chance to look at the winery’s new optical sorter. The machine, used immediately after a crusher destemmer, is essentially a series of steel slats on a vibrating table, with the vibration causing non-grape and non-usable grape matter to fall between the slats. The Pepper Bridge sorter has two sections, leading to a gross sort and a fine sort. A look into the bin where all of the extra material was going was eye opening – a mixture of tiny unripe berries, pieces of stems, dried leaves, and bugs (lots of them). Jean-Francois said, “Will it make a difference? We’ll see.” Looking at how clean the fruit was as it came out and all of the material left behind, it is impossible to see how it could not.

Pepper Bridge Merlot Estate Vineyards Walla Walla Valley 2008 $50
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) Tightly wound initially, this wine unfurls to reveal dark raspberries, red currant, and earth. The fruit is dense while avoiding ever being over weighted. The tannins are chalky and lead to a drawn out, spicy finish. Tremendous hang time. A beautiful example of Washington Merlot that balances grace and power and will only get better with some additional time in the bottle. Give 1-2 years. 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec. 51% Seven Hills, 49% Pepper Bridge vineyards. Aged 17 months in French oak (47% new). 14.1% alcohol. 1,181 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Vineyards Walla Walla Valley 2008 $55
Rating: ** (Exceptional) Almost completely closed up initially, this wine reveals high toned herbal notes, dusty chocolate, and dark cherries. The palate ramps up slowly then comes on gaining richness and texture with chalky, squeezing tannins. Persists for a full thirty seconds before slowly fading away. This wine is in its infancy and has an extremely long life ahead of it. Give 2 years or decant extensively. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot. 58% Seven Hills Vineyard, 42% Pepper Bridge Vineyard. Aged 20 months in French oak (48% new). 14.1% alcohol. 2,266 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Pepper Bridge Red Wine Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $55
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark ruby. Aromatically locked up at present with toasty spice, cocoa, dark berries, and high toned herbal notes. A rich but soft – some would say feminine – wine full of dark fruit and chocolate flavors with grainy, well integrated tannins. Pulls back and sails on the finish. A very pretty expression of this elegant vineyard. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. Aged 17 months in French oak (45% new). 14.1% alcohol. 468 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Pepper Bridge Red Wine Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2008 $55
Rating: */** (Excellent/Exceptional) A compelling contrast to the other wines sampled here, this wine is lightly aromatic with coffee bean, herbal notes, and dark cherries. On the palate it brings firm tannins along with rich fruit flavors of chocolate, cherry, and ripe cranberries. Lingers on the finish. A very sexy – some might say masculine - wine. Give one to two years. 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot. Aged 20 months in French oak (48% new). 14.1% alcohol. 476 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Pepper Bridge Trine Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2008 $60
Rating: * (Excellent) Very lightly aromatic with espresso, black cherry, herbal notes. The palate brings a firm wall of grainy tannins along with dark fruit and dusty chocolate flavors. This wine needs some time to come into its own. Give two years. 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot. 52% Seven Hills, 48% Pepper Bridge. Aged 20 months in French oak (48% new). 14.1% alcohol. 290 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Forgeron Cellars

Forgeron Cellars can often fly under the radar in Walla Walla. The winery is set off by itself downtown and has a long enough tenure that it doesn’t get the ‘new winery buzz.’ However, year after year French-born winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla keeps crafting compelling, well-priced wines using fruit from some of Washington’s best vineyards.

Recently, Gilla worked with executive chef Charles Calder on a series of holiday pairings for some of her wines, using classic recipes from her native France. Wine and food pairings can go a number of different ways. Often it is neutral with neither elevating the other nor subtracting from it. Occasionally it is catastrophic (think smoked salmon and red wine). Ah but when it is perfect the results are sublime, elevating both the wine and food and leaving the recipient in a state of nirvana. Though I only tried only two of several pairings (see the full recipes here), the Noix de Saint-Jacques à la Crème au Curry avec 2009 Chardonnay is so perfectly matched to the Forgeron Chardonnay it becomes hard to imagine one without the other.

Forgeron Cellars Ambiance Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: + (Good) Light in color. Pleasing notes of spice and apple, toast, and floral notes. Crisp and tart on the palate. 55% Roussanne, 27% Grenache Blanc, 18% Viognier. Alder Ridge, Crawford, Boushey, and Dwelley vineyards. Aged in French oak (20% new). Sample provided by winery.

Forgeron Cellars Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2009 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) An appealing, expressive wine with peach, pear, and melon flavors accented by silky oak spices. 98% Chardonnay, 2% Orange Muscat. Crawford, Underwood, Olsen, and Weinbau vineyards. Aged in French oak (33% new). 484 cases produced.

Forgeron Cellars Vinfinity Columbia Valley 2007 $46
Rating: * (Excellent) Appealing aromas of mocha, cherry, and spice. The palate is tart, tight, and flavorful with firm tannins and elegant fruit flavors. Give one year. 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 14% Malbec, 14% Petit Verdot. Aged in French oak (100% new). 186 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Forgeron Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2008 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Very pretty, appealing aromas of spice, dark cherry, and chocolate. The palate is loaded with silky fruit flavors and grainy tannins. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec. Dionysus (Cabernet), Lonesome Springs (Petit Verdot), and Stonetree vineyards (Malbec). Aged in French oak (40% new). 367 cases produced.

Forgeron Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2007 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Mineral, light smoke, chocolate, spice, blueberry, and light earth notes. The palate is rich and opulent with a dense core of fruit and a velvety texture. A delicious, full wine that still manages not to be full throttle. 100% Boushey. Aged primarily in French oak (50% new). 14.2% alcohol. 73 cases produced. Sample provided by winery.

Reader Survey 2012 Wine to Watch: Reynvaan Family Vineyards Stonessence Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2010

2011-12-19T01:15:00.000-08:00

The Reader Survey Wine to Watch is intended for a wine that will be released in the coming year that readers of Washington Wine Report believe will be exceptional. The winner of the Reader Survey 2012 Wine to Watch is Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2010 Stonessence Syrah Walla Walla Valley.

In just a few short vintages, Reynvaan Family Vineyards has established itself as one of Washington’s finest wineries. The Reynvaan family established the winery in 2004, hiring Christophe Baron as consultant to help pick out vineyard sites, lay out the vineyards, and help get the winery started. Matt Reynvaan serves as winemaker.

All of the Reynvaan wines are made from estate fruit from two vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley. The first, In the Rocks, is in the southern section of the Walla Walla Valley. The second is by the family home and is called Foothills in the Sun.

From the start, the Reynvaan wines were electrifying, aromatic powerhouses with intense savory flavors. Remarkably, the winery has only continued to improve with the 2008 and 2009 vintages as the vineyards mature and the Reynvaans gain more experience. The sky is the limit for this winery, and they have already reached a level of quality that puts them among the best.

Reynvaan Family Vineyards currently makes a dazzling lineup of estate syrahs, with most of the wines blended with some viognier or marsanne. The Stonessence – named in a callout to the ancient cobblestone riverbed where the In the Rocks Vineyard is located – is the winery’s only 100% Syrah. The 2009 vintage of this wine was easily one of the best wines in the state. The 2010 vintage, our Reader Survey 2012 Wine to Watch, will be released in the fall of 2012. It will be one worth waiting for.

Below is a list of final voting for the 2012 Reader Survey Wine to Watch. Thanks again to everyone who voted in this year’s survey.

Reynvaan ‘10 Stonessence	68 (29%)
A Bench ‘09 Red Willow Cab	47 (20%)
Buty ’10 Rediviva of Stones	41 (17%)
Efeste ‘10 Klipsun Merlot	37 (16%)
WW Vintners ‘10 Cab Franc WWV	36 (15%)

Votes: 229

4th Annual Reader Survey: And the winners are…

2011-12-18T23:00:00.000-08:00

Well folks, another Reader Survey – the fourth annual – has come and gone. I want to thank everyone who nominated wines this year and who voted in the survey. We had a great list of wines this year.

As I have written previously, my intention starting the Reader Survey four years ago was to hear about what Washington wines my readers thought were most exciting from the year gone by and what wines they were most excited about being released in the coming year. It was to get people talking about wines that excite them. That goal has remained.

The Preliminary Voting saw some challenges this year with ballot stuffing unfortunately leading to a disqualification of one of the wines. I’m sorry to say that Final Voting for Reader Survey 2011 Wine of the Year had similar issues, with a few individuals finding ways to vote scores of time for a particular wine to put it on top.

With no indication that this was done by individuals at the winery and not wishing to reflect negatively on this winery by disqualifying them and naming the runner up winner, I have rather decided to nullify the voting for the 2011 Reader Survey Wine of the Year completely.

This is disappointing, and I would like to apologize to the wineries that were finalists as well as to my readers. Please know that this was only done after an extensive analysis of voting patterns and the survey results.

I am, however, happy to say that I did not see any indication that similar machinations occurred in the Reader Survey 2012 Wine to Watch so those results will stand.

Given the difficulties of the survey this year, and the amount of time I took investigating them, I am sorry to say that, unless I can ensure that similar problems will not arise in the future, this will be the last Reader Survey. I’ll see if I can find another way to promote similar conversations next year to keep the idea behind the survey alive in some way.

Look for a separate post about the 2012 Reader Survey Wine to Watch.

Washington Wine Round-up December 8th to 14th 2011

2011-12-17T12:32:00.000-08:00

From around the world…

Decanter writes about the growing season in the Pacific Northwest.

From around the country…

Wine Spectator says watch out California, Washington is the Value King.

ABC Action News recommends wines for the holiday with a callout to Kestrel’s Lady in Red.

CNN recommends Dunham’s 2008 Cabernet.

From the blogosphere…

Paul Gregutt writes that it’s time to talk the handcuffs off merlot. Read Steve Heimoff’s reponse here. Paul G also writes about the new Naches Heights AVA, and a solution to the high alcohol conundrum.

Crosscut gives a big guy perspective on how Initiative 1183 will hurt the little guy.

Northwest Wine Anthem writes about Swiftwater Cellars. They also write about the 2008 RiverAerie Sangiovese.

Jobmouse writes about unions suing to stop Initiative 1183.

Gig Harbor Patch writes Initiative 1183 being challenged in court.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes aobut the 2008 Locati Cellars Sangiovese. Catie also write about the book Eat Eat Walla Walla.

Redmond Patch writes about Grape Killers.

Freedom Foundation writes about the lawsuits against Initiative 1183.

Palate Press writes about wineries turning to creative marketing for the holidays with a callout to Maryhill.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about upcoming events in Woodinville.

Nectar Tasting Room & Wine Blog writes about a partnership between Twigs and Terra Blanca. Josh also writes about the five best wines you’ll ever have and December Spokane wine events.

Table Talk writes about holiday wine gifts. They also write about seasonal eating and drinking in Seattle.

Wild 4 Washington Wine writes about Market Vineyards.

Write for Wine writes about Grape Killers.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Two Mountain Winery.

Under the Grape Tree writes about the Bookmark Red Wine.

Uncork Washington writes about Hollywood Hills 2008 Syrah.

Wine Peeps writes about DaMa Wines. They also write about House of Independent Producers Chardonnay.

Lucha Vino tries a Washington Bordeaux-style blend versus one from California.

MyNorthwest.com asks whether 1183 is hurting craft distilleries.

Examiner.com writes about Walla Walla.

Eat Drink Explore says to look for more wine on tap in 2012.

Reason Online says Washington uses liquor freedom to make liquor less free.

From the locals…

The Seattle Times writes that, after spending more than $19M on Initiative 1183, Costco stands to make $81M per year in Washington. They also write about a second lawsuit filed against Initiative 1183.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt says that the best merlots are right her in Washington.

Wenatchee World writes about Washington wines in the Top 100. They also write about Craig Mitrakul moving to Karma Winery.

KBKW writes about Westport Winery going solar.

Wine Press NW writes about the Naches Heights AVA.

Whidbey Island Examiner writes about a new wine shop in Coupeville.

Seattle Weekly writes that an injured wino seeks comfort in food pairings.

KIRO writes about a second lawsuit against Initiative 1183.

The Tri-City Herald writes that Chateau Ste. Michelle is among the world’s most admired brands. They also write about Gordon Brothers and the approval of the Naches Heights AVA.

KOUW writes about the lawsuits against Initiative 1183.

Central District News writes about how the CD voted on 1183.

The Spokesman-Review writes about Consumer Reports liking Washington wine.

That's all folks!

An In-Depth Look at the New Naches Heights AVA

2011-12-16T01:19:00.001-08:00

On Wednesday Washington received its 12^th American Viticultural Area (AVA) – Naches Heights. Here’s an in depth look at the state’s newest growing region.

Naches Heights is situated in Yakima County, lying between the small towns of Naches and Tieton, northwest of the city of Yakima. A million year old andesite lava flow, originating from the Goat Rocks, formed the region.

A subregion of the Columbia Valley viticultural area, Naches Heights is bounded by the Naches River to the north and east; the lower Tieton River to the west; and Cowiche Creek to the south and west. Andesite cliffs also help form the boundary to the north, east, and south. The area is 13,254 acres in size.

Elevations at Naches Heights range from 1,200 to 2,100 feet, making it considerably raised from much of the surrounding area. The plateau is generally flat, increasingly gently in elevation from southeast to northwest. The elevation and gentle grade help colder air drain into lower lying areas.

Naches Heights is distinct from a number of Washington’s growing regions in that it is above the level of the Missoula Floods, a series of cataclysmic events that occurred repeatedly 10,000 years ago. Unlike these areas, which have alluvial soils, Naches Heights is all windblown soil, or loess (pronounced ‘luss’), which continues to accumulate. The soil also contains a significant amount of clay, helping to retain water.

As a vinifera grape growing region, Naches Heights had its commercial start less than ten years ago when Phil Cline, a third generation farmer, decided it was time to get out of the tree fruit business. He sold off much of his land but kept a parcel in Naches Heights that had been in the family for three generations. A neighbor suggested he use the land to plant a vineyard. Cline decided to take the plunge.

In 2002 Cline planted Naches Heights Vineyard. The site is 24 acres with 7.5 acres planted to wine grapes. The vineyard is planted to Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Syrah ("I took a leap," Cline says of the latter). Cline produced his first wines from his vineyard in 2005, a Pinot Gris and Riesling. “This was my way of staying in agriculture,” Cline says.

Meanwhile, winemaker Paul Beveridge of Wilridge Winery had been looking to buy a piece of vineyard property for five or six years, ideally something that would cut down on his commute back and forth to Seattle. When he ran into Phil Cline at a wine event, Cline suggested he look at property in Naches Heights. Beveridge says of his vineyard site, “I took one look at it and said, ‘This is just incredible!’ We bought it the next day.”

Vineyard plantings at Wilridge Vineyard began in 2007, and 12 acres are currently planted to 23 different varieties as a test block. So far, Beveridge, who got his first fruit off the vineyard in 2009, has been pleased with the results, saying, “Anything cold hardy does well."

Though Wilridge and Naches Heights are currently the only two wineries in the area, other winemakers and growers have begun moving in. Robert Goodfriend of Harlequin Wine Cellars has a seven-acre piece of property with 2.5 acres planted to Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner (an extreme rarity in Washington), Malbec, and Grenache in 2008. That same year, Strand Vineyard was planted to five-acre of Graciano, Syrah, Tempranillo, Malbec, and Cinsault. In 2009 three additional acres were planted to Gewurztraminer, Riesling, and Pinot Gris. Aecetia Vineyard, owned by Doug MacKinnon, is 7.3 acres planted to five different varietals. Keller Vineyard is planted to one acre of Syrah. Finally, there are small plantings of Chenin Blanc and Marquette near Tieton.

This brings total plantings in Naches Heights to about 40 acres at present – less than a single vineyard in some areas. Cline currently manages all of these properties.

Intriguingly, all of the Naches Heights AVA vineyards are farmed sustainably, biodynamically, or organically (see Table 1).

Table 1	Organic	BD	Sustainable	Notes
NHV	Yes	Yes	Yes	Organic and Biodynamically farmed. LIVE and Salmon Safe certified.
Wilridge	Yes	Yes	Yes	Demeter Certified Organic and Biodynamic
Aecetia	Yes	Yes	Yes	Demeter Organic and Biodynamic not certified yet
Strand	No	No	Yes	Currently Salmon Safe certified LIVE Certification expect 2012
Harlequin	Yes	Yes	--	No certification at present
Keller	No	No	Yes	Certification process starts 2012 for LIVE and Salmon Safe

Paul Beveridge says of his decision to farm biodynamically, “I came from a wine quality standpoint. Some of the most exciting and delicious wines I tried were from biodynamic vineyards.”

As a growing region, Naches Heights is dry due to a rain shadow caused by the Cascade Mountains. The area receives 10 to 13 inches of precipitation annually. Naches Heights is also quite cool due to its elevation. “Some years we’re barely in the region of being able to get grapes ripe,” Cline says.

Below is a Growing Degree Day comparison of Naches Heights to other Washington AVAs for 2010 and 2011, both cool years. GDDs for 2005 to 2009 ranged from 2560 to 2945.

Table 2	Growing Degree Days
Year	Naches Heights	Red Mtn	Walla Walla	Yakima Valley	Lake Chelan	HHH	Wahluke Slope
2011	2159	2715	2562	2312	2457	2662	2680
2010	2248	2753	2325	2325	2547	2758	2709

Cline began laying the groundwork for AVA designation in 2008. “It’s a lot of work,” he says of the process. Beveridge, a Seattle lawyer, eagerly joined in and became a driving force. Two students from Yakima Valley Community College were also instrumental in the project. The application was filed in January of 2009, almost a full two years ago.

So, now the important question. How does this new area express itself in the wines? These are, obviously, very early days with few vineyards planted and none that have seen more than a handful of vintages. Still, Cline and Beveridge believe they have started to see hallmarks of the area.

“The wines all have very distinct aromatics, more so than I find in some of the other areas,” Cline says. “The aromatics are all very big.” He also notes that the grapes retain their acidity. Beveridge agrees, saying, “We get nice preservation of acidity and great fruit expression due to the cooler nights.”

Now that the AVA is approved - it will be published in the Federal Register on January 13 - wineries will be able to label any wines that are currently in tank or barrel with the Naches Heights designation as long as at least 85% of the fruit is from the area.

While Cline is excited about receiving AVA designation, an early Christmas present, he says there is another side to it. “Now the pressure is on Paul and I to produce!”

Picture 1: Digital Elevation Model of Naches Heights, courtesy of Kevin Pogue, Whitman College
Picture 2: Andesite cliffs on Naches Heights, courtesy of Paul Beveridge
Picture 3: Aerial view of Wilridge Vineyard, couresty of Paul Beveridge

Holiday Party Wines that Bring the Thunder

2011-12-15T13:00:00.000-08:00

With the holiday season in full swing, here are some crowd pleasers that are guaranteed to bring the holiday party thunder and, most importantly, won’t break the bank just to be put on the table and guzzled by the thirsty masses.

Let there be no doubt that the holiday party wine of 2011 is the J Bookwalter Winery Bookmark Red Wine. This non-vintage blend is mostly Syrah along with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The fact that this wine is not shy on the oak is actually part of its charm. Many wines at this price point are unoaked or oaked with chips or staves. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. It is, however, extremely (extremely) rare to find a wine at $15 that has an abundance of high quality, expensive oak, which is what you find here.

Though the oak does play a big part in this show, there’s more than enough fruit to go along with it. The Bookmark Red retails for $15 but can be found in many places, including some grocery stores, for $10-$12. This is a case purchase wine at this price and a perfect wine for the holidays or to bring as a host gift. Notably, this wine was also the third ever unanimous “buy” wine in the four-plus years I have been conducting monthly Virtual Tastings.

The next wine is the 2008 Rulo Winery Syrca – a Syrah and Cabernet blend. This is another wine that is guaranteed to make your friends think you paid a whole heck of a lot more for the bottle than you actually did. It can be your little secret.

Moving on to whites, bring a bottle of the 2010 Pacific Rim Columbia Valley Riesling, which has a great label and is an even better wine. If someone says, “But I don’t like Riesling. It’s too sweet!” you have my permission to hit them over the head with the bottle. Just make sure it’s empty first because it’s too good to waste.

Any coincidence that all three of these wines are screwcaps? No. First it gives you a great opportunity to educate your friends that a screwcap doesn’t mean low quality. Secondly, and more importantly, it means you don’t have to be that person who brought a corked bottle of wine to the party!

Let me know what your go-to wines are this holiday season.

J Bookwalter Winery Bookmark Red Columbia Valley NV $15
Rating: * (Excellent) Toasty, campfire notes dominate aromatically initially followed by espresso, chocolate, red fruit, dark fruit, light herbal notes, and cracked pepper. The aromatics are attention getting indicating an oak program obviously for a much more expensive price point. The palate is soft and silky, lush, rich and fruit filled with ripe dark fruit and abundant chocolate flavors and a sweet, lingering finish. Dips a bit in the middle but comes back together and sails. 33% Syrah, 31% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11% mixture of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Roussanne.

Rulo Syrca Columbia Valley 2008 $15
Rating: * (Excellent) Aromatics of dusty cherry, blueberry, a jumble of dark fruit, dry chocolate, and light herbal notes. The palate is loaded with rich, penetrating fruit flavors along with firm, slightly dry tannins. Fruit flavors persist a long finish. 72% Syrah, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.5% alcohol. Reviewed October 31, 2011

Pacific Rim Riesling Columbia Valley 2010 $11
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale lemon yellow. An aromatically compelling wine with floral notes, peaches, and jasmine. The palate is medium-dry and full off mandarin orange and lime flavors, beautifully stitched together with a zing of acidity that carries along to a lingering finish. 100% Riesling. 11.5% alcohol. 2.3% Residual Sugar. Reviewed August 30, 2011

How to Turn a Cork into a Christmas Ornament in Six Easy Steps

2011-12-14T00:16:00.001-08:00

If you're like me, you've got more than a few wine corks hanging around. Here's how to turn some of those corks into Christmas decorations in a few easy steps.

Step 1: Open up a favorite bottle of wine or grab a cork from the bag you're waiting to recycle (you do recycle your corks right?). If you're opening a new bottle, make sure to try to center the corkscrew so that you don't break the sides of the cork for aesthetic reasons.

Step 2: Purchase yourself some Small Screw Eyes from the local hardware store. 13/16 of an inch is a good size to make durable ornaments.

Step 3: Screw a Small Screw Eye into the top or bottom of the cork.

Step 4: I'm always out of hangers, so I picked up a set at the local pharmacy. You can also use things like string or yarn.

Step 5: Attach the hanger to the Small Screw Eye.

Step 6: Hang and have a happy holiday!

Washington Wine Commission Searches for New Executive Director

2011-12-13T00:16:00.001-08:00

The Washington Wine Commission should feel fortunate that Seattle is not Boston and that they are not the Red Sox.

If this were the case there would be a steady stream of stories in the Times counting the number of days since Executive Director Robin Pollard announced that she would be leaving with no successor in place. We would read stories about potential candidates coming and going from the office. Perhaps there would even be rumors of Commission staff members eating fried chicken and playing video games in the clubhouse during Taste Washington instead of rooting for their teammates on the field.*

But I digress.

In early October, Washington Wine Commission Executive Director Robin Pollard announced that she would be resigning at the end of the year after six years at the helm. Since that time the Commission has been engaged in finding her successor.

Established in 1987 by the state legislature, the Washington Wine Commission is funded by annual assessments on grape and wine sales. Pollard, who came to the Commission after serving as the Director of Tourism for the State of Washington, says, “I thought that the single best thing the Commission could do (when I started) was to lay out a five to ten year business strategy on developing markets and bringing the industry together, so that we’re all on the same page working toward the same goal.”

That initial planning, done in partnership with the state’s wineries, led to a strategic focus on several domestic markets, including Tampa, Austin, Denver, Phoenix, and Chicago. “If we go in and make a commitment to a market, then we see an impact,” Pollard says of these efforts. Simultaneously, the Commission has worked to increase international sales.

“We’re all about opening doors,” Pollard says. “At the same time we know we need to still pay attention to our own back yard.” To that end, the Commission launched a first-ever local advertising campaign and has worked to promote local restaurants that champion Washington wine. Significantly, it also recently secured a commitment to support construction of the Washington State Wine Science Center.

Pollard describes her work at the Commission as “the pinnacle of my professional experience,” and her tenure has coincided with a doubling of the number of wineries in the state. While it is hard to imagine a more prosperous period, Pollard says, “The future is very bright for the Washington wine industry.”

Beginning in January, Deputy Director Chris Stone will assume the necessary day-to-day activities until a successor is named. For personal reasons, Stone has decided not to apply for the position.

In its search for a new Executive Director, Wine Commission Public Relations Director Ryan Pennington states that the Commission has presently received a few dozen formal applications. The Commission has engaged Olympia-based recruiter Karras Consulting to assist with the process and conduct an initial screen of candidates.

While Pennington states that the Commission hasn’t put a rigid timeline on its search, the hope is to have someone in place by late February or early March if possible. This would coincide well with its annual, signature event - Taste Washington. It would also coincide, of course, with Spring Training reporting dates for the Red Sox.

Having a new Executive Director in place prior to Taste Washington might be particularly beneficial this year. Last month the Commission announced a new partnership with Seattle’s Convention and Visitors Bureau (CVB) to conduct the event. With this arrangement, the CVB will assume primary responsibility for producing the event with the Commission becoming a presenting sponsor.

“The objective for Taste Washington has been to continue to grow the event into a position of prominence as a national, destination food and wine event,” Ryan Pennington says. “What this partnership will do is allow both organizations to do what they do best. For us that’s organizing all wine related aspects of the event. All of the restaurant, hospitality, and tourism aspects as well as sponsor and vendor arrangements will be led by the CVB.”

In other changes, for 2012 Taste Washington is expanding to two days to encourage out-of-towners to come and spend the weekend. The event will take place March 31^st and April 1^st.

Could it be coincidence that by that time baseball Opening Day will be just four days away?

* If you don’t follow baseball at all those first two paragraphs will be completely incomprehensible to you. Sorry.