This is part of a report on 2009 Walla Walla Fall Release Weekend. Download a complete .pdf copy of the report here.

The story behind El Corazon Winery is a familiar one in the wine industry. Yet somehow these stories always retain their vitality. Spencer Sievers was born in Walla Walla but was living in Lawrence, Kansas when he felt the pull back home to become involved in the town’s emerging wine scene. After working harvest at Reininger Winery in 2007, he and his friend Raoul Morfin set out to make their own wines. They named the winery El Corazon because they were doing what was in their hearts.

Sievers and Morfin take a unique approach in terms of the varieties they select and how they handle these varieties. Their goal is to show that many grapes that are commonly thought of as blending varieties, such as Carmenère, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc, can stand on their own in Washington. The duo are also more interested in expressing fruit than oak, with each wine aged in mostly neutral barrels.

The results are fascinating and enjoyable varietal expressions. While at times it seemed more oak or blending would have fleshed out certain facets of these wines, the El Corazon wines provide a great opportunity to try varieties that infrequently see single bottlings in Washington at consumer-friendly price points.

El Corazon produces 350 cases annually.

Follow El Corazon on Facebook.

El Corazon Carmenère Tigers Blood Walla Walla Valley 2008 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Crazy white pepper and spice aromas dominate the nose. Glides along the palate with medium-bodied fruit. Opens up beautifully. Barely a trace of oak influence which, in this case, might have fleshed out some of the missing pieces but overall works on this wine. 100% Carmenère. Seven Hills Vineyard. Aged in neutral French oak. 14.1% alcohol. 75 cases produced.

El Corazon Supernova Malbec Rattlesnake Hills 2008 $21
Rating: . (Decent) An extremely floral nose that is reminiscent of stargazer lilies along with light licorice and spice notes. Taste is dominated by spice flavors. 100% Malbec. Kolibri Vineyard (Rattlesnake Hills). Aged in neutral French oak. 13.5% alcohol. 145 cases produced.

El Corazon First Crush Columbia Valley 2007 $21
Rating: + (Good) Nose marked by anise and chocolate along with streaks of coffee. Lots of baking chocolate and cherry on an enjoyable taste. 100% Cabernet Franc. Weinbau Vineyard. Aged in neutral French oak. 14.8% alcohol. 48 cases produced.

A St. Patrick's Day round-up of stories on Washington wine from March 8^th to 14^th.


From around the world

The CBC talks with Charles Smith.

The Calgary Sun writes about Charles Smith.


From around the country

Wines & Vines writes about a new device from WSU to help wineries track cold weather threats.

Food & Wine writes about Kyle MacLachlan in Walla Walla.

The Calgary Herald writes about wine and the economy with a brief mention of wineries for sale with a mention of Washington (no names listed).

NJbiz.com writes about AmericanWinery.com’s efforts to change New Jersey’s wine shipping laws.


From the blogosphere

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about journalist Alice Fering. She also writes about the upcoming Washington Merlot Twitter tasting.

Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about William Church’s release party. They also write about Walter Dacon’s use of social media and Dunham’s 2005 Trutina.

Paul Gregutt writes about Rulo. He also writes about weather concerns for Washington wineries, and the lack of fire sales of Washignton wineries.

The Pour Fool writes about Pleasant Hill.

Second Glass names the Kiona 2006 Lemberger their wine of the week.

Drink Nectar writes about the rebirth of Spokane’s Caterina Winery. He also writes about overcoming Twitter and Facebook anxiety and Spokane hosting wine bloggers for the 2010 Wine Blogger’s Conference.

One Rich Wine Guy writes about Terra Blanca.

The Oregon Wine Blog writes about Portteus. They also write about Seattle Food & Wine Experience.

Food Trips for Roadies writes about Yakima Spring Barrel tasting.

WAWineman writes about Columbia Winery’s 2008 Opal. He also writes about Arbor Crest’s 2007 Four Vineyards Merlot.

Sacre Bleu writes about Seattle Wine Gal.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Columbia’s Taste of White. Shona also writes about the Twitter conference wine tweetup, Woodinville wineries that tweet, and experiments with the Centellino wine decanter.

Yak Yak Wine writes aobut Bunchgrass’s 2006 Lewis Vineyard Syrah. Chris also writes about Windy Point’s 2007 Gewurztraminer and blogging troubles.

WINO writes about the Portteus 2007 Bistro Red.

Wine and Dine Walla Walla writes about Dusted Valley being named winery of the year by Wine Press NW. The also write about Otis Kenyon expanding to Woodinville.

Terroirists write about Alice Feiring.

Wine Peeps gives tips for Taste Washington. They also taste two Washington Tempranillo with callouts to Pomum and Columbia Crest.

The Blog Wine Cellar writes about Saviah Cellars’ 2006 Jack.

RJ’s Wine Blog lists tasting notes from the last week with callouts to Giant Wine Company, Long Shadows, Charles Smith, and Quilceda Creek.

Beyond the Bottle writes about Dunham Cellars 2007 Lewis Riesling.

Seattle Tall Poppy gives a Taste Washington preview.

CraigSutton.net writes about Desert Wind’s Greg Fries (follow a tweetchat with Greg 3/17).

Another Wine Blog writes about L’Ecole No. 41’s 2008 Luminescence.

Northwest Cork and Fork writes about upcoming events.

Fast Forward Weekly writes about Charles Smith in Calgary.

Wine Economist writes about Hedges fortified wine.


From the locals

The Yakima Herald writes about expanding wine themed amenities in wine country.

Othello Outlook write about the recent Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers.

KIRO 7 talks with Walter Dacon about social media.

The Seattle PI writes about concerns about the Asian fruit fly.

The Tri-city Herald writes about Martin-Scott Winery.


Leftovers

One Rich Wine Guy writes about social media changing the way we drink wine.

Wawineman writes about Betz Family Winery’s 2009 Petite Rousse. He also writes about Gifford Hirlinger’s 2007 Stateline Red and Coyote Canyon’s 2008 Albarino.


That’s all folks!

Like many Washington winemakers, Guardian Cellars’ Jerry Riener works another full-time job to help fund his passion for wine. Unlike most of them, his day job is as a police officer.

Riener was driving down the highway in the late 1990s when he saw something suspicious. Stopping for a closer inspection, Riener looked past the barrels and grapes and went straight to the object that drew his attention – the shiny new forklift. Growing up, Reiner had spent summers on his uncle’s farm in the Midwest, and machinery had always held a fascination to him. After interrogating Matthew Loso (then of Matthews Cellars) about the nature of his business, Riener was hooked. He began spending forty hours a week volunteering at the winery, working harvest, crush, and racking barrels. With a degree from the University of Washington in chemistry, it was the science of winemaking that most interested Riener. As payment for his service, Loso let him make a barrel of his own wine at the winery each year.

With Woodinville emerging as a wine area at the beginning of the last decade and wineries popping up all over town, Riener helped out where he could, assisting other wineries with winemaking or construction jobs. In 2001 he met Mark Ryan McNeilly who was starting Mark Ryan Winery. They fast became friends, and Riener began working at the winery as an “electrician, cellar rat, money manager, computer technician, janitor and assistant winemaker.” In 2003, Riener made two barrels of his own wine at Mary Ryan Winery. With these two barrels of 2003 Stillwater Creek Cabernet Sauvignon selling out within forty minutes of being offered, Guardian Cellars was born. McNeilly and Riener continued to work together until 2007 when Riener opened a facility of his own in the warehouse district in Woodinville.

Guardian Cellars uses exceptional fruit sources for its wines including Kiona, Klipsun, Stillwater Creek, Destiny Ridge, and Conner Lee vineyards. Many of the names of Guardian Cellars’ wines call out to Riener’s police work. Riener describes the Chalk Line Red, which is made up of wine from declassified barrels, as his “kitchen sink” wine. This wine is a standout at this price point. The Gun Metal Red Wine is Riener’s Bordeaux-style blend. This wine is 100% Conner Lee Vineyard. Riener not only received the contract for this fruit from mentor McNeilly, he also received the name, which had previously adorned Mark Ryan labels. Riener prefers to give the Gun Metal an extra year of age before release. The results show on this excellent effort that, while drinking extremely well now, promises to lay down well and improve for years to come. Of note, this wine contains Malbec for the first time in the 2006 vintage.

More than ten years in, Riener retains his passion for winemaking – and for driving forklifts. He adds that "making kick-ass wines is also a nice change from the day job of arresting people."

Guardian Cellars produces 2,700 cases annually.

Web: www.guardiancellars.com
Facebook: Guardian Cellars


Guardian Cellars Gun Metal Red Blend 2006 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) A nose that wins you over on the first sniff with earth, pencil lead, brambly fruit, and a bit of funk. Beautifully refined and impeccably balanced on the palate with soft tannins and a long, expressive finish. 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 11% Malbec. 100% Conner Lee Vineyard. Aged 22 months in 80% new French oak. 400 cases produced.

Guardian Cellars Chalk Line Red Blend 2007 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) A very pretty – although quite locked up - nose with light graphite, high-toned berries, anise, and vanilla. On the taste, an elegantly structured wine marked by red and black fruit, flowers, and a persistent finish. 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Syrah, 16% Cabernet Franc, and 19% Merlot. Aged in French oak (90% new). 425 cases produced.

Long time readers know that each month for my Virtual Tastings, I pick a specific wine on a specific date and discuss the wine with others on-line. Since starting these tastings in 2008, I have never varied from this format.

Until now.

As many of you know, Thursday March 25th there is a nationwide Washington Merlot Twitter tasting. The event is being organized by DrinkNectar.com in conjunction with a number of other Washington wine bloggers and social media folks (see list here).

Participation in the event is simple. All people need to do is find a Washington Merlot and tweet about it between 5 and 7pm PT on the 25th using the hashtag #WAMerlot. For you long-time virtual tasters, this differs from our usual time of 7-9pm, but I'm sure the tweeting will go on long past 7pm if you find yourself late to the party.

Don't use Twitter? Feel free to leave a comment on my blog post on Thursday the 25th, and I will link the comment to Twitter. For those unaccustomed to Twitter, go to search.twitter.com and search for #WAMerlot during the event to follow the discussion.

In terms of finding a wine, many retailers and Washington wineries are offering Merlot specials for the event. Ask your favorite Washington winery if they are participating in the event to see what they have planned. Almost seventy wineries are currently signed up (see list here) along with a number of wine bars, restaurants, and retailers (Note: Wineries, there is still time to join. See a list of potential ways to participate here. Even if you can't participate, let your fans and followers know about the event so they can tweet about your wine).

Finally, make sure to register for the event at wamerlot.eventbrite.com. We want to know that you're coming.


Previous Virtual Tastings

February Hedges CMS Red 2008

January Columbia Crest Grand Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

December '09 Virtual Tasting - Brian Carter Cellars Abracadabra 2007

November '09 Virtual Tasting - Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet 2007

October '09 Virtual Tasting – Owen Roe Sinister Hand 2008

September '09 Virtual Tasting – Novelty Hill Cabernet CV 2006

August '09 Virtual Tasting – Barnard Griffin Cabernet 2007

July '09 Virtual Tasting – Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2008

June '09 Virtual Tasting - Waterbrook Melange Noir 2006

May '09 Virtual Tasting - Charles Smith Boom Boom! Syrah 2007

April '09 Virtual Tasting- Columbia Crest GE Shiraz 2006

March '09 Virtual Tasting - Magnificent Wine Co. House Wine 2006

February '09 Virtual Tasting - Hedges CMS Red 2007

January '09 Virtual Tasting - Columbia Crest GE Merlot 2006

December '08 Virtual Tasting - Ch. Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cab 2005

November '08 Virtual Tasting - Russell Creek Tributary Red 2006

October '08 Virtual Tasting- Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet 2006

September '08 Virtual Tasting - Tamarack Firehouse Red 2006

August '08 Virtual Tasting- L'Ecole No. 41 Recess Red 2006

Plumb Cellars is a new winery that was pouring its inaugural releases Fall Release Weekend. One of several winery-less wineries, Plumb Cellars was pouring at Merchants Deli in downtown Walla Walla (Note: Merchants has changed hands and is now Olive Marketplace & Cafe).

Plumb Cellars was founded by a group of friends who share a passion for good wine. The winery was named after one of their founders, a builder by trade, who insisted that the rows of their estate vineyard be planted straight and that all of the vineyard stakes be plumb. The winery’s website says, “This desire for aesthetics (of doing the job well) brought us to choose the name, Plumb. A wine made correctly—a fine, straight wine.”

Winemaker Megan Anderson-Pira is the daughter of acclaimed Walla Walla Vintners’ winemaker Miles Anderson. Plumb Cellars made their first wines at Walla Walla Vintners. The winery’s initial releases are a Merlot, Red Wine, and Cabernet Sauvignon (the latter was not sampled). On the bottles, the label is set off-kilter – an eye catching approach - with a plumb line running straight down the bottle.

The winery will be releasing the 2007 Damn Straight Red Wine as well as a 2007 Syrah Spring Release Weekend. The Syrah contains fruit from the winery’s estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley vineyard, named Garvey Arthur, as well as fruit from Spring Creek Vineyard. Plumb Cellars also plans to have a tasting room open at that time.

Plumb Cellars made 325 cases in their first vintage. The winery made about twice that for the 2009 vintage.

Plumb Cellars Merlot Birch Creek Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2006 $24
Rating: + (Good) Nose is marked by caramel and spice along with red cherries. Tart and fruit filled on the palate. 14.8% alcohol. 75 cases produced.

Plumb Cellars Damn Straight Red Wine Columbia Valley 2006 $26
Rating: + (Good) Dust and a touch of tobacco mark the nose on this nice, bright, cherry filled wine that features chewy fruit flavors. 40% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 30% Cabernet Franc. 14.3% alcohol. 225 cases produced.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from March 1^st to 7^th.


From around the country

The San Jose Mercury News writes about Milbrandt Vineyards.

The Dayton Business Journal writes about Domaine Ste. Michelle as does the Minneapolis St. Paul Star Tribune.


From the blogosphere

Citrus Quark writes about a trip to Woodinville with callouts to DeLille, Matthew, Novelty Hill, and Januik.

Wine and Beer of Washington State reviews the Seattle Food and Wine Experience. The also look at the Walter Dacon C’Est Syrah Magnifique and Roussanne. They also write about the national Washington Merlot Twitter tasting coming up on March 25^th.

Paul Gregutt writes about Brian Carter Cellars. He also writes about Northstar Merlot and tasting wine.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about opening a Leonetti Merlot.

Toledo Wines and Vines look at Washington wine. They also write about micro-wineries with callouts to Gilbert Cellars and Cascade Cliffs.

Drink Nectar writes about Sauvignon Blanc and the upcoming Washington Merlot tasting. Josh also writes about Washington wine month and gives out some monthly honors for February.

Ken’s Wine Guide checks out L’Ecole No. 41’s 2007 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Seattle Wine Gal writes about the Washington Merlot tasting.

Cellar Mistress writes about Semillon.

NW Wine & Real Estate writes about Pomum Cellars and Tempranillo.

The 1 Eye Wine Guy writes about Kiona’s 2005 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer.

One Rich Wine Guy writes about social media.

The Oregon Wine Blog writes about Terra Blanca. They also write about Yakima’s Barrel House.

K Vintners writes about Portland’s Washington Wine Rocks.

Wine and Dine Walla Walla writes about Glencorrie winery.

NW Food News picks up the NPR story about Hedges’ distaste for wine scores.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about the launch of the Food and Wine Pairing Network. Shona also writes about the Seattle Food and Wine Experience.

Yak Yak Wine writes about Hedges.

Write for Wine writes about the Sip of Snoqualmie. Margot also writes about Seattle’s Sip Wine Bar.

Erika Szymanski writes about Ward Johnson Winery.

Washington Wine gives a rant about Washington wine month.

Windy City Wine Guy writes about Washington wine history.

WBC writes about the upcoming Wine Blogger’s Conference.

Wine Foot writes about Bookwalter’s 2007 Foreshadow Cabernet.

Wine Peeps writes about Washington wine available in Phoenix.

Family Wineries of Washington State write about SO2. They also write about taxes on pesticide and fertilizer.

About.com writes about Mercer’s 2007 Merlot.


From the locals

KUOW writes about Hedges’ dislike of having its wines scored. They also write that wine tastings may coming to Farmer’s Markets soon.

KNDO writes about Canyon’s Edge new tasting room in Kennewick.


That’s all folks!

In an article last month in the New York Times, reporter Katrina Heron detailed current problems in Napa Valley selling high-end wine. The economic collapse has resulted in slow movement of inventory leading to sure-to-be calamitous circumstances – wineries backed up on vintages, grapes left hanging on the vine, and winemakers considering skipping a vintage or already having done so. An article this week in the San Francisco Chronicle titled ‘Napa Wineries Fall Under Foreclosure Crush’ was even more foreboding, saying 2010 may be a record year for foreclosures.

Now before Washingtonians and folks elsewhere start smirking and thinking it serves Napa wineries right for being so expensive, so exclusive, and so [add your own adjective here], make no mistake. This problem is not Napa’s alone. If you own a winery, chances are these same problems are coming to your doorstep if they are not already there. Many Washington wineries, certainly those with wines around $50 or higher are already feeling the effects and have been for some time. This problem is going to get worse in the coming months. If you are thinking or hoping otherwise, you are sure to be unpleasantly surprised.

There were two sentences in the New York Times article that made a particular impression on me. Both were regarding top Napa producer Grgich Hills. The first mentioned that Grgich had 20,000 cases of unsold wine last year. 20,000 cases. That’s a lot of high-end wine to be sitting on without a lot of ways of moving it now or in the future. The second was a quote from Mike Grgich saying to his staff, “Get me Facebook and Twitter!” While some might find this humorous coming from an 87 year-old man with such a storied history in the wine industry, I found it chilling. The instinct is right but as I read the quote, two words came in to my head. Too late.

***

Due to the boom times of the last decade and the fast pace of recent changes, many wineries in Napa and elsewhere have been slow to understand the changing forces and even slower to respond (let’s not forget too that the wine world does not move quickly). They have been caught off-guard by a perfect storm of a historically bad economy, the rise in social media, and changing demographics. Many have long ignored emerging channels, such as websites, blogs, Facebook, and Twitter. “I don’t have the time,” is the frequent refrain.

I don’t want to trivialize this sentiment because many of the wineries in Washington and elsewhere are very small operations where focusing on one area means not focusing on another. The question I would ask is, can you afford not to? Can you make it through another one year or two years doing the same thing you are doing right now if the economy remains stagnant? What if it gets worse?

If you cannot – or even if you feel you like can – it’s time to consider doing something different. Many already are. I have been struck by the increased interest in social media from Washington wineries in the last several months. I am continually seeing newly launched websites, blogs, and Twitter accounts. While some have fully embraced social media in its many forms, many are now venturing into the waters not because they want to but because they are scared to death of having to make it through another year like the last one. Still, I am surprised by the number of high-end wineries in Washington with hundreds of thousands to millions of dollars of backed up inventory who currently have no social media presence whatsoever. What are they waiting for?

For some of these wineries in Washington, Napa, and elsewhere, it is already too late. They were too slow to respond to rapidly changing forces. And before the economy suddenly changed, they simply didn’t have to respond. I am sure there are wineries out there right now that feel like they still don’t have to. Perhaps they are right. However, wine sales, club memberships, and waiting lists can rapidly evaporate. I recall living in Boston how the local basketball team, the Celtics, had sold out every game for more than a decade and had a years-long waiting list for season tickets. Suddenly the team found themselves offering day-of-game seats for $10 (and let's not even talk about the addition of cheerleaders) because all of those people suddenly went away. I should add the fact that they sucked had something to do with this. My point is that things can change very, very quickly.

My intention with this post is not to bring doom and gloom. Rather, it is to say that if you are running a winery and you have been considering becoming involved in social media, this is your clarion call. Now is the time. Do it. Do it before it is too late for your winery.


Postscript: A former mentor once said to never to bring a problem without offering a solution (thank you Murray). To that end, I will suggest in a future post a variety of ways wineries can engage in social media. Until then…

This is part of a report on 2009 Walla Walla Fall Release Weekend. Download a complete .pdf copy of the report here.

Robison Ranch Cellars is a new winery that was having its inaugural release party Fall Release Weekend. And was it ever. Driving on the long dirt road leading to the winery, a third generation, family-owned ranch, I would never have imagined what awaited us.

Inside one of the buildings was a full-on party with a great band and a hundred or more people. This was no black tie event. Rather, hay bales served as seats. The winery had raffle giveaways every half-hour and had a roaring fire outside. What I loved about this party was that the family did it in their own style. Rather than bring in a local caterer, they had family and friends bring food. The result was by far (by far) the best spread of the weekend, including some to-die-for smoked salmon. This was a jubilant celebration of a winery’s first release and was certainly ‘the place to be’.

All of this is a reflection of the excitement and enthusiasm of winemaker Brad Riordan, who along with Jim Robison started the winery. Riordan exudes a joy for the experimentation and discovery of making wine. While Robison has been making wine for several years, the 2008 Rosé is the winery’s first bonded wine and was the only one available for sale. Still, at this event the winery poured an assortment of wines made before they were bonded as well as wines from the barrel.

Robison Ranch sources much of its fruit from Spofford Station, Dwelley, and Windrow vineyards. The wines are varietally correct and are excellent representations of their respective vineyards. Robison Ranch’s first red releases – a 2008 Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet, and Petit Verdot – are still in barrel and will be released in the Fall of 2010. The winery will be releasing a Viognier, Sémillon, and Rosé in the Spring.

Robison Ranch is increasing its production from 200 to 600 cases.

Follow Robison Ranch Cellars on Facebook

NB: The Robison Ranch Cellars website will be up in late February/early March.

Robison Ranch Cellars Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2008 Barrel Sample $NA
Rating: + (Good) An aromatic wine with lots of vanilla, blueberries and pretty spices. Fairly grippy on the palate. Dwelley Vineyard. In barrel for 15 months. Will be bottled in February.

Robison Ranch Cellars Syrah Spofford Station WWV 2008 Barrel Sample $NA
Rating: + (Good) Lightly aromatic at present with a nose reminiscent of wines from Lewis Vineyard with cola and black licorice. Tart and tight on the palate at present. Co-fermented with 300 lbs of Viognier.

Robison Ranch Cellars Viognier Walla Walla Valley 2008 $NA
Rating: + (Good) A beautiful nose loaded with floral aromas and stone fruit. The partial malolactic fermentation gives a very interesting and pleasing texture to the palate. Aged seven months in stainless steel. Sampled at 61 degrees.

Robison Ranch Cellars Rosé Walla Walla Valley 2008 $20
Rating: + (Good) Reddish brown in color. Nose shows a touch of petrol along with brown sugar, strawberries, and other red fruit. Crisp and pleasing on a dry palate. Syrah, Viognier, Merlot and Sangiovese Sampled at 64 degrees.

Robison Ranch Cellars Merlot 2007 $NA
Rating: + (Good) Lots of vanilla and baking spices on the nose. A bit over-weighted with oak on the taste, especially on the backend. Still a lot of good things going on here with chalky tannins and a healthy dollop of fruit on the palate. 100% Merlot. Dwelley and Spofford Station vineyards. Aged for 12 months in new American oak then moved to neutral barrels. Note: Wine made before winery was bonded and will not be available for sale.

Robison Ranch Cellars Cuvee Walla Walla Valley 2007 $NA
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Richly textured on the palate. Lots of vanilla and fruit on the palate. 45% Merlot (Dwelley and Spofford Station) 30% Syrah (Spofford Station) and 25% Cabernet (Spofford Station). Aged in American oak (50% new). Note: Wine made before winery was bonded and will not be available for sale.

Robison Ranch Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2006 $NA
Rating: * (Excellent) An alluring nose with licorice, spice, and sprinkles of tobacco. An enjoyable, fruit filled palate that is very nicely balanced. 90% Cabernet (Spofford Station), 10% Cabernet Franc (Windrow). Aged in 50% French and 50% American oak (all new). 13.9% alcohol. Note: Wine made before winery was bonded and will not be available for sale.

Robison Ranch Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007 $NA
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Nose a bit closed down at the moment. An impressive wine that opens up and expands on the palate. Tannins a bit drying at times. 95.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot, 1.5% Syrah. Aged in American oak (50% new). Note: Wine made before winery was bonded and will not be available for sale.

Robison Ranch Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2007 $NA
Rating: +/* (Good/Excellent) Another impressive wine that shows lots of licorice. Thick and rich on the palate. Lovers of Spofford Station fruit would enjoy this effort. Spofford Station Vineyard. Note: Wine made before winery was bonded and will not be available for sale.

Retrospectives are part of an occasional series on how Washington wines are aging. See other posts in this series here.

Winemaker Ben Smith of Cadence Winery has made his reputation making single vineyard wines from some of Red Mountain’s finest vineyards. Through the years, these vineyard sources have included Ciel du Cheval, Taptiel, Klipsun (recently phased out), and Cara Mia, the winery’s estate vineyard.

Smith’s commercial experience with Red Mountain goes back to his first vintage in 1998 when he made a wine from Taptiel Vineyard. While Red Mountain has since become Smith’s focus, in his first three vintages he also made wine from what would become one of Walla Walla Valley’s finest sites, Spring Valley Vineyard.

Spring Valley Vineyard is unique compared to many of the vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley in that it is situated farther north, about twelve miles northeast of Walla Walla. The area, which features rolling hills and wheat fields, is among the most picturesque locations in the Walla Walla Valley. The Derby family planted two acres of Merlot at the site in 1993. The family began making estate wines under the Spring Valley Vineyard label in 1999. The vineyard has since been expanded to 115 acres.

I recently had the opportunity to try Cadence’s 1999 wine from Spring Valley Vineyard at the launch of the Food and Wine Pairing Network. Despite being almost eleven years old, the wine seemed young and vibrant. Impressively, this wine also displayed what would become Spring Valley's and Cadence's characteristic styles. The high-toned herbal aromas of Spring Valley were apparent on this wine despite the youth of the vines. For Cadence, even in Smith's second commercial vintage, his beautiful, structured style shines through.

Cadence Red Wine Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 1999 $30
Rating: * (Excellent) Nose marked by blueberry, chocolate, and the light herbal notes classic to this vineyard. On the taste, the wine seems youthful with a firm tannic backbone and beautiful cranberry flavors. Has a long life ahead of it. 83% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc. 13.9% alcohol. Approximately 300 cases produced.

This is part of a report on 2009 Walla Walla Fall Release Weekend. Download a complete .pdf copy of the report here.

Writing about Gramercy Cellars recently I said “If you are looking for a bandwagon on which to jump, now would be the time.” Less than a year later, I must amend that statement. The concept was right but the metaphor all wrong. This was not a passing bandwagon but rather a rocket ship on the launch pad. After a string of exceptional reviews from Wine Advocate, I can report that Gramercy Cellars has now achieved lift off.

In five short years, Gramercy Cellars has established itself as one of the top wineries in Washington State. What distinguishes this winery from others? Like many, they are making exceptional wines. However, these wines are unique from their peers stylistically and structurally with higher acid, lower alcohol, and less oak influence. The wines are both varietally correct and explore new facets of the varieties in Washington. Sum all of this together and you have a winery well separated from its peers. However, when you add the compelling expression of the ever elusive, much discussed and debated terroir, Gramercy has left the earth’s gravitational pull and is on its own unique trajectory to success. Where they will go, nobody knows.

Gramercy Cellars produces approximately 3,500 cases annually. For Fall Release, Gramercy was pouring out of a tent set up next to their estate vineyard adjacent to Waters Winery.

All wines sampled at 58 degrees.

NB: See a hilarious video made by Gramercy on starting the winery here.

Gramercy Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2007 $42
Rating: ** (Exceptional)Violets, game, and earth mark the nose on this wine. Beautifully textured across the palate with exceptionally pure fruit along with earth flavors. 100% Syrah. Les Collines and Forgotten Hills vineyards. Aged in French oak (10% new) for fifteen months. 13.9% alcohol. 389 cases produced.

Gramercy Cellars Lagniappe Syrah Columbia Valley 2006 $38
Rating: * (Excellent) Dark in color. Nose marked by abundant game notes along with violets. A velvety texture with an extended finish. 97% Syrah, 3% Viognier. Forgotten Hills and Minnick vineyards. 13.9% alcohol. 556 cases produced.

Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2006 $42
Rating: * (Excellent) Redolent with black licorice, ground spices, tobacco, and pepper. Surprisingly lithe on the palate. Exceptionally well balanced with focused fruit, spices, and light oak influences along with a touch of chocolate and herbal flavors. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Pepper Bridge and Phinny Hill vineyards. 13.9% alcohol. 375 cases produced.

Gramercy Cellars Grenache Columbia Valley 2007 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An intensely aromatic wine with pepper and strong black licorice aromas. Wow! A powerhouse on the taste with richly textured fruit and light herbal streaks. A healthy dose of acidity tops it off. 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah. 13.9% alcohol. 189 cases produced.

Gramercy Cellars John Lewis Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2007 $65
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An aromatic powerhouse with violets, game, and chocolate aromas. Boasts a fullness on the palate, especially the mid-palate, that is simply breathtaking. The purity of the fruit and the balance of this wine are beyond exceptional. 100% Syrah. Les Collines and Forgotten Hills vineyards. Aged in French oak (approximately 15% new). 13.7% alcohol. 146 cases produced. To be released Spring 2010 (NB: This wine was released last month subsequent to the publication of this report).

Gramercy Cellars Inigo Montoya Tempranillo Walla Walla Valley 2007 $40
Rating: ** (Exceptional) A downright stinky, intense nose with lots of earth aromas. Richly textured with fruit on the palate. 75% Tempranillo, 15% Grenache, and 10% Syrah. 13.9% alcohol. 330 cases produced.

21 Grams Columbia Valley 2006 $125
Rating: ** (Exceptional) An alluring nose with pencil lead, Red Vines, licorice, baking chocolate, and spice. Beautifully integrated and balanced with a fair amount of pencil lead flavors. A long, effortless finish. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 2% Malbec. 100 cases produced.

Seattle Uncorked will be hosting its 4th annual fashion and wine event Sunday March 14th at the Westin Hotel in Seattle. Founder David LeClaire likes to pair wine with good causes, in this case Gilda's Club of Seattle. Gilda's Club is a support center for people living with cancer and their families. The club was founded in honor of comedian Gilda Radner who died in 1989 from ovarian cancer.

The event features an auction of celebrity purses and handbags, a silent auction of bags brought by attendees, and stores displaying local designs. Thirty-five Northwest wineries will be pouring their wines at the event.

Tickets are $40. Purchase tickets or read more about the event at www.gildasclubseattle.org

Deborah and David Hansen founded Cougar Crest Winery in 2001. Natives of the Northwest, the Hansens had been living in San Francisco when they decided to move back to Washington to raise their family on a farm. With the apple market plummeting, they decided to replace some of their orchards with vineyards. After several years of selling grapes to others, Deborah decided to try her hand at winemaking. She made her first vintage for Cougar Crest in 2001.

From the beginning, Cougar Crest has focused on its estate vineyards – Cougar Hills, Stellar, and Golden’s Legacy. The winery produces 12,000 cases annually, making it relatively large by Washington standards. Cougar Crest favors a style with a fair amount of oak influence. While occasionally the wood gets in the way, generally Hansen makes it work with a rich, palate-coating style.

Of note, all of the 2006 vintage releases seemed surprisingly light in color compared to their peers in previous vintages.

All wines sampled between 68 and 70 degrees.

Cougar Crest Dedication Three Red Wine Columbia Valley NV $20
Rating: + (Good) Fairly light in color. Hints of green pepper along with sweet spices and a kiss of chocolate. Tart on the taste with palate coating oak. Appears to have been open for some time. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. Cougar Hills, Golden’s Legacy, and Willard vineyards. 13.4% alcohol. 1,008 cases produced.

Cougar Crest Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2006 $35
Rating: + (Good) Light in color. Birthday cake spices surround bright cherry aromas. A bit uneven on the palate with sweet oak up front followed by a tart finish. 88% Merlot, 7% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot. Cougar Hills Vineyard. 13.4% alcohol. 814 cases produced.

Cougar Crest Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley 2006 $36
Rating: * (Excellent) Light in color. Abundant red currant aromas along with sweet oak spices. Very evenly balanced on the palate with well-integrated oak. The finish persists. Only detraction is that it is quite light bodied and occasionally comes off as a bit thin. 76% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, 9% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot. Cougar Hills Vineyard. 14% alcohol. 945 Cases produced.

Cougar Crest Anniversary Cuvee Walla Walla Valley 2005 $32
Rating: * (Excellent) Nose is marked by light white pepper and sweet spices dusted over red cherries. A bit tart on the taste on an otherwise very well put together wine. 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and 18% Petit Verdot. Cougar and Stellar Vineyards. 13.9% alcohol. 980 cases produced.

Cougar Crest Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2006 $38
Rating: + (Good) Again, fairly light in color. A classic Cougar Crest nose with lots of sweet spices, confectionary sugar, chocolate, a fresh ground tobacco. An enjoyable nose but unfortunately comes off as a bit thin on the palate. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, and 12% Petit Verdot. Cougar Hills Vineyard. 13.6% alcohol. 693 cases produced.

Cougar Crest Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2005 $32
Rating: + (Good) A whole lot of stinky game aromas and violets on a nose accented by light chocolate and hints of earth. Dances lightly along the palate. An enjoyable, well put together wine. 97% Syrah, 3% Viognier. Cougar, Stellar, and Golden’s Legacy vineyards. 13.8% alcohol. 376 cases produced.

Walla Walla River Malbec Columbia Valley 2007 $32
Rating: . (Decent) Fairly light in color. Nose marked by white pepper, dark chery, and caramel. All of the pieces don’t quite tie together on the taste but still a decent wine. 100% Malbec. Cougar Hills Vineyard. 13% alcohol. 190 cases produced.

A round-up of stories on Washington wine from February 22^nd to 28^th.


From around the country

The San Francisco Chronicle recommends Columbia Crest, Januik, and Owen Roe Chardonnays.

Wines & Vines writes about the possibility of wine tastings at Farmer’s Markets in Washington.

The Memphis Daily News writes about Waterbrook.

The Minneapolis Star-Tribune writes about Powers Muscat Cannelli.

The Cleveland Plain Dealer writes about House of Independent Producers 2008 Chardonnay (who?).


From the blogosphere

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Buty. Catie also writes about Skylite Cellars Syrah.

Vintology writes about Northstar.

Palate Bomb writes about Walla Walla with callouts to L’Ecole No. 41, Rulo, Isenhower, Walla Walla Wine Works, and Otis Kenyon.

WINO Magazine links to a hilarious video from Gramercy Cellars. They also write about Olsen Estates and White Heron Cellars.

Paul Gregutt gives more thoughts on aging Washington wines. He also writes about Altria mentioning the possible sale of Chateau Ste. Michelle and gives some social media tips for wineries.

The Liquid Muse does a video blog on Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about the Washington Merlot Twitter tasting.

DrinkNectar.com writes about the Taste Spokane. Josh also writes about March 25^th’s Washington Merlot Twitter tasting and Grande Ronde Cellars.

Seattle Wine Gal writes about an open tweetup at Bellevue’s Purple Café and Wine Bar. Barbara also does a video blog on Walter Dacon.

Wine and Beer of Washington State write about the 2007 Lullaby Rose. They also write about Hollywood Hills Vineyard and DuBrul and Hedges 2008 CMS Red.

The Examiner.com writes about Seattle’s Sip Wine Bar.

Walla Walla Wine News gives some local food news.

The Oregon Wine Blog writes about the Newport Seafood and Wine Festival with a callout to Zerba. They also write about Port-style wines from the Yakima Valley with callouts to Daven Lore and Tucker Cellars. They also write about the Eat & Drink in the Northwest book series and a visit to Picazo 7Seventeen.

Wine Peeps writes about Washington Cabernet. They also write about Columbia Crest’s Two Vines Vineyard 10 White Wine, E.B. Foote’s Sherrill Miller, and give a Taste Washington preview.

One Rich Wine Guy writes about fortified wines with a callout to Hedges.

Corks and Caftans writes about the 2007 Ex Libris Cabernet.

WAWineman writes about Cadence’s 2004 Bel Canto. He also writes about Boudreaux Cellars 2006 Chardonnay.

Yak Yak Wine writes about Kestrel’s Lady in Red.

Wannabe Wino Blog writes about L’Ecole No. 41.

Ambassador of Wine writes about the 2001 Northstar Columbia Valley Merlot.

Terroirists write about Riesling Aroma Precursors talk given at the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers conference.

Northwest Cork and Fork writes about Wedge Mountain Winery.

Washington Wine writes about that the state’s wines are still a secret to many.

Bemis Art Community writes about Sodovino.

Family Wineries of Washington State give an update on 2010 legislation.


From the locals

Writing for the Spokesman-Review, Paul Gregutt says its time for Merlot to regain its rightful spot at the top (NB: Read about the nationwide Washington Merlot tasting on March 25^th here).

The Bellevue Reporter writes about new wine classes being offered by Seastar.

The Tri-City Herald writes about the increase in tourism to the Tri-Cities.

Oregon Magazine writes about Col Solare.

Writing for the Seattle Times, Paul Gregutt writes about Bordeaux-style blends.

OPB writes about the possibility of wine being sold at farmer’s markets.


That’s all folks!

When writer Paul Gregutt recently wrote a series on his blog about Washington’s five essential varieties, the grape he started with was Riesling. This was far from a random choice. While red grapes varieties often get more press, Riesling has been somewhat of a signature grape for Washington. It is the state’s most produced grape (Chardonnay edged it out in 2009, but Riesling growers swear they will be back), and the variety grows particularly well here. Washington also produces a lot of wine from the resulting grapes. Woodinville’s Chateau Ste. Michelle is the largest Riesling producer in the country.

According to the International Riesling Foundation (IRF), a non-profit association created to increase awareness, understanding, and appreciation for the grape, Riesling is on the rise in the U.S. It is the fastest growing white wine in terms of sales. This would seem to present Washington with an opportunity to brand itself nationally and increase consumer awareness of its wines more generally.

Unfortunately, Riesling has long presented several problems to wine consumers in Washington and elsewhere. The first is the misperception that the wine is always sweet (styles range from bone dry to sweet). The second is that, even if a consumer knows Riesling is not always a sweet wine, he or she often has no idea what to expect from a bottle. I enjoy Riesling in its many flavors. What I do not enjoy is a sweet Riesling when I am expecting or wanting a dry one and a dry Riesling when I am expecting or wanting a sweet one. Wines are infrequently labeled as dry, off-dry, or sweet (Chateau Ste. Michelle should be commended for doing so I might add). Unless a consumer has tried a wine or read about it, the only way to know – outside of searching on-line for a technical sheet – is to try it and find out.

It is therefore with delight that I read about the IRF’s Riesling Taste Profile. Of the profile, the IRF writes:

"To help consumers predict the taste in a particular bottle of Riesling, the IRF created a Riesling Taste Profile which Riesling producers may use on their back labels, merchandising materials and elsewhere. The winery may choose…where the arrow should go based on a set of technical guidelines and their own judgment.”

The set of guidelines to assist winemakers include a chart of the technical parameters involved in the perception of sweetness, such as sugar, acid, and pH.

Some wineries began labeling wines with the profile in the 2008 vintage. Considerably more are doing so for the 2009 vintage. Not surprisingly, Chateau Ste. Michelle announced plans last year to label their bottles with the profile. Many other Washington wineries are following suit.

This is good news for consumers and good news for wineries. Consumers will be better able to find wines in a style they are looking for and will also hopefully experiment with other styles. Wineries can use it as an educational opportunity in the tasting room and at events. They can also be assured that if they are not there to speak for the wine, consumers are less likely to be taken off guard by a style they are not expecting.

The Riesling Taste Profile seems likely to continue Riesling’s rise in Washington and the U.S. Now if we could just do something about rosé…

This is part of a report on 2009 Walla Walla Fall Release Weekend. Download a complete .pdf copy of the report here.

àMaurice Cellars is a family-run winery located just east of Walla Walla. Founded in 2004, the winery is dedicated to Maurice Schafer – the Schafer family patriarch “who was known as a gentleman, guiding light and civic leader.” The Schafer family’s interest in starting a winery was formed around the dining room table. Reflecting this, àMaurice Cellars makes wines to be enjoyed with food.

Maurice Schafer’s son Tom spent two years researching the Walla Walla Valley before deciding on proper place to plant their vineyard. Established in 2006 and now in its fourth leaf, the thirteen and a half acre vineyard is planted to Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Located by Mill Creek, the vineyard is situated 1,400 feet above sea level, higher than most in Walla Walla. This elevation and the proximity to the Blue Mountains afford the site twenty inches of rainfall per year. Considerably higher than the average valley rainfall, the Schafers rarely need to irrigate during the growing season, unlike most valley wineries.

Tom’s daughter Anna Schafer serves as àMaurice’s winemaker. Anna was mentored by Gordy Venneri, one of the founders of nearby Walla Walla Vintners. Schafer also worked two harvests in Argentina under Paul Hobbs of Viña Cobos. She is currently studying for the Institute of Masters of Wine examination that she describes as the “most challenging experience of my life.”

Schafer’s wines are simultaneously bold and nuanced, adding to any meal but also standing on their own. While the estate vines mature, àMaurice sources fruit from Gamache, Sagemoor, Weinbau, Connor Lee, Elephant Mountain, and Boushey vineyards. However, even at their fourth leaf, the estate vines show great promise. The 2008 Viognier from this vineyard – Sparrow - is one of the best I have had from Washington State. While this wine has extremely limited production, the Columbia Valley Viognier is not far behind.

àMaurice produces 3,000 cases of wine annually. Wines sampled at 61 degrees except where noted.

Website: www.amaurice.com
Follow àMaurice Cellars on Facebook
aMaurice will be pouring at Taste Washington

àMaurice Viognier Columbia Valley 2008 $25
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale straw colored. Loaded with stone fruit and floral aromas. Crisp and clean on a beautifully balanced palate. 100% Viognier. Neutral barrel fermented and aged. 14.1% alcohol. 294 cases produced. Sampled at 55 degrees.

àMaurice Syrah/Grenache Columbia Valley 2007 $34
Rating: * (Excellent) An explosive nose marked by violets and smoke. Chalky, dry, and redolent with red fruit on the taste. 85% Syrah, 15% Grenache. Lewis, Boushey, and Minnick vineyards. Aged in 100% French oak (2^nd fill or older). 14.1% alcohol. 231 cases produced.

àMaurice Malbec Columbia Valley 2007 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Floral notes, spice, and pepper mark an expressive nose. A beautifully restrained palate. 100% Malbec. Gamache and Stone Valley vineyards. Aged in 100% French oak (30% new). 13.9% alcohol. 244 cases produced.

àMaurice Red Blend “The Tsutakawa” Columbia Valley 2006 $35
Rating: * (Excellent) Earth, pepper, floral notes, and sweet ground spices on an engaging nose. Loaded with savory fruit on the palate. An impressive effort. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, and 4% Petit Verdot. Aged in 95% French oak, 5% Hungarian. 14.4% alcohol. 342 cases produced.

àMaurice Viognier Sparrow Walla Walla Valley 2008 $33
Rating: * (Excellent) Pale straw colored. An absolutely gorgeous nose with crisp pears jumping from the glass along with a bouquet of flowers, tangerines, and peaches. So many layers of complexity one stops counting. Perfectly composed on the palate with a textured weight while remaining dry. An acidic zing at the finish brings it home. Perhaps the best Washington Viognier I have had. 100% estate Viognier. Neutral barrel fermented and aged. 37 cases produced. Sampled at 50 degrees.

2008 Sparrow provided as a bottle sample by the winery.